DIY radiator repair Tavria

Blog describing the history of repair, operation and travel by car ZAZ-1102 "Tavria" from Likseich.

If the car is already old, then I advise you to pay attention to the metal return pipe, which is located above the starter. In my case, the pipe inside was in a terrible state - all in shells, rusty, antifreeze was already oozing through it. It is attached with two bolts to the cylinder block through a gasket. Replaced the pipe and gasket.

The pump (water pump) may fail slowly. To assess its condition, you need to remove the cover of the flat-toothed belt and touch the lower part of the pump with your finger. Check if the area of ​​the drain hole is wet (if there is a drop of antifreeze hanging). If it's wet, it's time to change your pump. If this moment is not tracked, then the pump bearing can jam over time and the camshaft drive belt toothed belt will break (in practice it was). When removing the pump, you need to replace the gasket under it (and lubricate it with lithol, for example). Tear off the old gasket carefully. There are left and factory gaskets on sale. The difference in the thickness of the strip is visually visible. And this thickness determines the gap between the impeller and the cylinder block, i.e. pump performance. When I replaced the pump with a factory gasket, it began to pump much more, the return flow became strong and the engine hardly heats up in traffic jams.

It is best to buy pipe clamps with a wrench tightening option. At first, they will have to be tightened several times since the rubber is pressed in over time. Especially during the beginning of winter, the antifreeze may begin to leak and you will need to tighten the clamps. I have installed Norma clamps.

Thick nipples are sold as a set. Price range from 50 to 160 UAH. I do not advise you to put cheap ones, tk. the rubber is very poor quality. It is better to install the most expensive (so-called factory) production of WOLMOT Poland.

It is necessary to drain and pour antifreeze into the cooling system when the stove is on (the tap must be open). After pouring the antifreeze with your hands, you can squeeze the thick pipes to expel the air. Also, after filling, you need to start the engine and raise the expansion tank to the maximum height (as long as the pipes allow) and hold it a little. This will expel air from the cooling system.

After the antifreeze is poured into the system, you need to check the operation of the cooling system. We warm up the engine at idle speed and use the device to control its temperature, and by hand we control the temperature of the lower part of the radiator. Only when the arrow of the device reaches 90 degrees should the lower part of the radiator become hot. After that, after a while the radiator fan should turn on. This means that the thermostat is in good working order. he started the antifreeze in a large circle (through the radiator).

Updated:
When buying a stove faucet, check if it leaks when closed. To do this, you need to blow into it. A good faucet does not leak anything. When the handle of a bad valve is wobbled, the valve valve may start to leak. In a good tap, the flow control knob should not have any backlashes, otherwise the stove may continue to work when the tap is closed. When connecting the cable to the crane, it is necessary to make sure that the cable does not create a lateral load on the crane handle (otherwise the handle will be skewed). For this, the end of the cable should be bent in a zigzag with right angles so that the cable can walk somewhat freely in the hole of the left-right handle. These are necessary conditions for the stove radiator to be cold when the tap is closed (we check it by hand).

Updated 22.10.2012:
After replacing the third crane of the stove, I decided to install a VAZ crane. Well, ZAZ does not know how to make a stove tap.Well, at least crack, it flows, it does not block the flow. So I bought from VAZ-2108, model LV 0108 produced by Luzar. Aluminum body, ceramic parts.

Where it is painted in red, I cut it off with a hacksaw. rests against the manifold during installation. The fastening of the cable is the same as in Tavria. The only difference is that the valve lever in the “closed” and “open” positions works opposite to ours. And I had to shorten the central core of the cable a little, somewhere by 1 cm. The crane is kept cleanly on the nozzles, and this is quite enough. The faucet is still working perfectly, shutting off the flow tightly, the hand of heat on the stove radiator does not feel at all when it is closed. It costs 55 UAH.

Updated 10.11.2014
The sensor for turning on the radiator fan often fails. And you even buy a new one, put it on, and it either turns on or off at the wrong temperature. A bunch of manufacturers of the TM-108 sensor - different types of Vernetoff and other shit. And often the manufacturer is not indicated on the sensor at all. Practice has shown that it is necessary to set the production facilities of OJSC Kaluga Avtopribor Plant (KZA) at 92/87 degrees. It seems that ZAZ installed these sensors. Switches the fan on and off very correctly.

Updated 26.09.2015
Replacing the stove radiator. My radiator leaked a lot, especially in cold weather. I bought a new Luzar Comfort with improved characteristics. The radiator is aluminum, with soldered tubes, with increased heat transfer and reduced aerodynamic resistance. It looks very solid in appearance. Replacing is easy. Remove the two heater bolts under the torpedo. Close the stove tap. Remove the stove pipes from the radiator. A little antifreeze will pour out into the substituted container. Put on the plugs on the radiator leads. Pull the heater housing slightly towards you. Unscrew the three screws securing the radiator on the side of the heater on the side of the passenger's feet. Take out the old radiator. Turn on the stove fan and blow out all the debris from the stove. Collect back.

It warms, of course, better than the old one, it is also blown out almost twice as strong. Warm air flow is felt more strongly. And most importantly, it does not flow yet.

Updated 01.10.2015
I bought a new expansion tank cap. Manufactured by FEBI Bilstein. Model 02269. Kind of like made in Germany. Price $ 2. Manufactured for select Volkswagen and Audi models. One problem. I had to put an additional gasket in the lid, since with one gasket the lid is screwed onto the tank not hermetically. Luzar took the gasket from the cover. Let's see how it will work, otherwise our covers do not last even a year - the valve fails and the cooling system tears somewhere.

Now impressions on the 80-degree thermostat. The engine temperature hardly ever rises above 80 degrees. Neither in the city nor on the highway. The air temperature was +4 degrees. While crawling in 2-3 gears along the pits, about 20 kilometers with a full load of the car, once the temperature rose to 90 degrees for about a couple of minutes. The stove heats up in general as before - I did not notice the difference. In winter, the engine will probably be chilly, but good in summer. The 87 degree thermostat was a little hot in the summer. In the heat, especially after stopping, the engine overheated. In the Crimea, in the mountains with a long high rise in 2nd gear, I warmed myself above 100. In general, at least take and put summer and winter thermostats. Frosts will come, I'll test it.

Why do thermostats go. In many cases due to debris in the cooling system. Therefore, I installed such a device.

A transparent fuel filter was cut into the return line to the tank. It can withstand temperature and pressure in the system. Garbage and some kind of silt have already appeared in it. Soon I will put a new filter with a sump. Maybe it will clean up my old system a little. Although I have already washed it with chemical washings, something is still floating inside.

UPD 01/08/2016 Thermostat test at 80 degrees at -23 frost.
So I went on a trip to the track (100 km) at -23 degrees overboard and 90% humidity. I wanted to take a cardboard box on the radiator - I forgot it at home.As a result, the engine temperature was always slightly below 80 degrees, as well as in the fall at +5 degrees. You don't need to put any cardboard on the radiator. Engine thrust is normal, as is the 87 thermostat. The carburetor did not freeze anywhere, XX is normal. The stove warmed up well, I did not notice the difference from 87. Conclusion - a thermostat at 80 degrees in winter copes well with the tasks. So far, I have everything.

UPD 03/05/2016 Replacement of the cooling radiator
My radiator began to leak strongly. Constantly large puddle of antifreeze. I decided to buy an aluminum brazed radiator with flat tubes produced by Luzar. Brazed, this means that the tubes are brazed to the side of the tank and not rubber sealed. When the old radiator was removed, it turned out that the lower plastic fitting was crumpled (possibly from overtightening with a clamp) and there was a leak in this place. It also flowed in places where the plastic reservoir of the radiator was squeezed. I had a radiator "Zlit". It is also brazed with round tubes and has served for quite a long time - over 13 years.

The radiator has two steam outlet connections. There was only the right one with a hole (near the sensor). The hole was drilled to 4 mm and a return pipe was put on it. Let's see how the engine will warm up now, otherwise there is a lot of debate on the network on the topic “which side should be the return pipe”. Another feature of the radiator is its very thin tubes. Perhaps there is a possibility of clogging with debris, but we have a filter 🙂

That's for sure, it was necessary to buy radiators from Luzar's products. Because Luzar is a Russian trade mark of the products of the Lugansk Aircraft Repair Plant. On which, in times of peace, a German radiator production line was installed. The fate of this line on the Internet could not be traced. According to Wikipedia, the plant was stolen by “Russian defenders” and taken to Mordor (possibly only an air unit). However, there is evidence that the radiators are now made by St. Petersburg and the quality is now "not at all the same." There are also rumors that the line has moved to Kharkov and continues to delight us with normal radiators. In any case, the place of production is not indicated on the radiator tag and there is an occupation barcode.

Traveled around the city with this radiator and the right return pipe union. On the street +2 degrees. I did not notice the difference in the speed of engine warm-up. The engine temperature in all modes was 80 degrees, the radiator fan never turned on.

UPDATE 04/14/2016
The battle with the cooling system continues. The blue "German" lid of the antifreeze tank is buggy. Does not relieve pressure. The pipes have become as hard as stone. I took the Luzar cover I bought long ago. At my stand, it did not bleed air up to 2 atm. I decided to shorten the valve spring by a turn. He waved her scissors for metal. When I disassembled the lid, I noticed that the valve was rubber stuck, barely tore it off. And this is on an even new lid! Clean rubber stuck to clean, dry plastic. Now while it is working, the rubber pipes are not stone. But this lid is such a buggy thing that you need to regularly check the pressure in the system, otherwise it will break something. Soon I will get tired of it and I will drive with atmospheric pressure in the cooling system. Either I will not twist the lid, or I will pull out the valve nafig.

UPDATE 26.08.2016
The lid of the Luzar tank began not to twist tightly, the thread is bypassed and distorted. Antifreeze leaks from under the lid. I took an older Luzar lid - it twists normally. Replaced the gasket - it does not help. I rearranged the filling of the lid from the new one to the old one and screwed it onto the tank well, tightly. What happened to the lid. the temperature led her to something.

UPDATE 08/05/2017
The valve on the tank lid is stuck again. I'm tired of it. I changed them a bunch of different manufacturers, shortened the spring. In general, I slightly unscrewed the lid to relieve pressure and a hedgehog like that. I will not bother with caps / valves anymore. Stop paying handcrafted cover engineers 🙂

Hello everyone! Such a problem - now I ride around Europe in Tavria)) The stove radiator is covered, the local service stations have no idea how to change it.Help, pliz, with a solution to the problem. (Michael)

Good afternoon, Mikhail. We are ready to give you recommendations for solving the problem.

1. First of all, unscrew the drain plug with a wrench, place a container under it and drain the coolant from the system. If Tosol changes with the radiator, then it should also be drained from the cooling radiator. After that, in the bottom right corner, find the drain plug and unscrew it.
2. Then it is necessary to loosen the clamps of the hoses that lead to the replaced device. There may be a problem finding the clamps, they are usually hidden. First, unscrew the hose clamps, which is supplied to the faucet, the hose can be removed. Then disconnect the clamp and remove the hose from the water distribution pipe.
3. The following actions are carried out from the passenger compartment. On the driver's side, it is necessary to disconnect the stove and power wires. It is necessary to dismantle the fastening strip that goes from the panel to the heater device (in some Tavrias it may not be present).
4. Using a 10 socket wrench, you will have to unscrew several nuts installed on the heater body. This can be inconvenient, so use an extension cord. Also take into account the fact that the so-called studs can accommodate ground cables, so when you collect all the elements, put them back in place. In the same way, you need to dismantle the nuts installed on the side of the front passenger seat.
5. Now for the main point. The stove body must be pushed down a little and pulled towards you. This will allow you to gain access to the radiator hoses of the device, which must be removed.
6. Further, using a Phillips screwdriver, you should unscrew several self-tapping screws that secure the device, and dismantle it from the stove body. The body itself does not need to be removed, the whole procedure is carried out in the car's interior.
7. The final stage will be the installation of new equipment. Further assembly steps are performed in reverse order.

How to replace a device with the removal of a torpedo on a ZAZ 1102 - watch the video (video by Alexander Lamanov).

change unambiguously. all sorts of powders can clog the radiator of the stove, and then two radiators will have to be changed. I set myself a copper one
instead of luminous, and got rulez. 🙂

Some pros first bend these antennae and remove the plastic tank completely, make an audit, coat all the joints with sealant and assemble. But, IMHO, this should be done only on a "absolutely dead" radiator, so that later it does not have "excruciatingly painful" 😉

If it flows from an aluminum tube, then you can solder it (you need experience in soldering aluminum and be careful with plastic tanks) or put a clamp on it.

Konfa is called "Sharing Experience" And any experience can be useful to a creative person.
It is enough to replace "wooden chopiki" with "threaded brass plugs, planted on a sealant" in the advice, and the repaired radiator can serve for a long time.

It is clear that you need to be able to accurately cut threads, spend time on repairs.

It's easier to pay $ 20 for a new stove and $ 10 for installation, but then why ask questions at all in the confu? Something broke - go to the service, pay money and don't think about anything.

If a car's radiator leaks, then most of us resort to replacing it. However, in most cases it is possible not to change, but to repair the radiator. Sometimes no skills are required, but sometimes it is impossible to do without knowledge in the field of welding or soldering. We learn to determine the condition and try to restore the radiator with our own hands.

The most common problem is when the radiator leaks due to old age. Coolant (coolant) runs out of the joints between metal and plastic, which automatically leads to overheating of the engine. It is not always possible to find a replacement radiator, and repairs will cost at least 2 times cheaper than a new one.

Further we will talk about car radiators in general and it does not matter if it is a repair of a heater radiator, an air conditioner radiator or a radiator of the engine cooling system.

Repair of a radiator with chemistry. Minor damages can be repaired with special products known on the market as radiator refurbishing fluid, radiator sealant, or powder reductants. The principle of operation is approximately the same: pour the radiator reductant into the engine cooling system (SOD). The resulting mixture will seal cracks when exposed to air.

Chemistry is different from chemistry, therefore, it is impossible to answer for the quality of such a method as a whole. For example, a low-quality reductant may not help, but, on the contrary, harm it by clogging up the entire SOD. For example, the stove will stop heating and it will be necessary to flush the SOD or change the radiator of the stove. Better chemistry is able to eliminate radiator leakage only for a while (from several days to several months). Thus, chemistry for repairing a radiator is only a temporary solution to the problem.

There is a popular method for repairing radiators. It consists in patching holes using cold welding (a material similar to plasticine, which hardens after use). It is better to close up a small hole in the radiator after degreasing the work surface well. If the hole in the radiator is large, then a piece of tin can be used as a patch, which is again glued with cold welding.

We repair the radiator honeycomb with a mixture of epoxy resin and hardener. Degrease and pour the substance into the damaged honeycomb and level it with a spatula. Now the holes in the radiator are 100% sealed.
In general, the folk method involves the use of many materials for sealing, I just showed the main ones. Whether this approach can be called a high-quality radiator repair, decide for yourself.

The following instruction assumes knowledge of basic welding and soldering skills.
To repair the radiator permanently, it must be removed, but before that, the coolant must be drained from it (described in detail in the article on cleaning the radiator). Now that the radiator is dismantled, we can determine its condition, whether the radiator can be repaired or replaced with a new one.

Repair the radiator by soldering. We clean the place that will be restored well and solder a piece of sheet brass (brass radiators). Here you need to resort to using a gas torch and a soldering iron.

If the radiator tubes are cracked, then it is better to replace them with new ones. We heat the solder until it becomes soft and take the tube out of the tank. In its place we solder a new one. The disadvantage of this method is the effect of high temperatures on the elements of the radiator, which leads to its internal deformation. Therefore, it is better to use argon arc welding (argon welding).

Repair of a radiator with argon welding. The filler material here is a special welded aluminum wire. Special equipment is indispensable here. It should be noted that places treated with argon will be protected from oxidation.
Repair of a radiator using gas-dynamic spraying. When a special powder is accelerated along the inside of the radiator at a very high speed, a 1-1.5mm thick coating forms on the damaged surface. It makes no sense to describe these two methods, because they cannot be done at home.

There are various ways to repair a car radiator, each of which has its own advantages and disadvantages. In one case, there will be a short-term repair of the radiator, and in the other for a long time. If you doubt your abilities, then it is better to entrust the mission of restoring the radiator to specialists and argon welding. They will not only repair, but immediately clean the radiator and, if desired, install a brass tank.

If the radiator is damaged after a head-on collision of the car, then the repair will cost a pretty penny. It is more correct in this case to buy a new high-quality radiator.

Replacing the radiator and cooling fan on the Tavria 1102 with a fan and a diffuser with an increased diameter and, in simple terms, from an injection to a carburetor.

You make all changes to the design of your car at YOUR OWN risk.

Support the development of the project and the channel with like.
And who has an extra ruble or dollar or, in extreme cases, a hryvnia for new parts and a new "collective farm" below the wallets:
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I really want to get a good instrument.
Good luck to all.

To turn on the fan on the carburetor series, you do not need to turn on the ignition. Carson runs on battery power. So we short-circuit the two wires on the sensor and voila, it works. But on injection through the relay with the ignition on. Good luck

Hello, I have a question about replacing a cooling motor with one like yours. How does it work and do you have any comments on this motor and diffuser?

Sergey Bespalov is working fine. No comments. The same diffuser and motor is on the injection versions of the Slavut. Runs quieter, cools faster.

Well, all class. Molochaga that conducted such an experiment. The question is tormented, is it heated more, less, without changes?

MexaniK_Sanya began to cool faster due to additional blades

Guys, she stopped warming up due to the replacement of the radiator with a sports radiator. And carson turns on by a temperature sensor, it may not work accurately, you can check it with an electric thermometer. And you also need to check the thermostat, it may not open or stick in the middle. Either there is no circulation, this is a problem in the expansion tank cap. In general, this is a magical car))))

Vyacheslav Bondarevsky cools faster and the fan turns off in summer. In the summer, the old one, although it coped, rarely turned off + the noise from the propeller is less. I roll on.

What is the power of the fan motor?

About spare parts. Since on Tavriyakh and Slavutah stand stove (heater) radiators from Vaz-2108 , then you will have a very large choice. You can stop at a high-quality Russian-made radiator (VIS, DAAZ, LUZAR) or save as much as possible, go on an adventure and buy a Chinese product - LSA, AT, Roadmap. The choice is always yours. As for the recommendations, for example, I very often opt for the "golden mean" - on radiators produced by "LUZAR". Not expensive and high quality.

Also, when buying a stove radiator (heater), you should also think about the coolant. That is, decide what we will pour into the cooling system after replacing the radiator - old antifreeze or water, new antifreeze (or antifreeze). If the radiator leaks and you had to top up with water, then it would be best to fill in a new coolant, especially if winter is on the doorstep or has already come (as the law of meanness, the radiator flows exactly when the first frost occurs). Let me remind you that the cooling system of Tavria, Slavuta, ZAZ-1102 cars includes 7 liters of antifreeze .

The tool that comes in handy when independently replacing the radiator of the stove (heater) on cars Tavria, Slavuta, ZAZ-1102, ZAZ-1103, ZAZ-1105: wrench for 14, socket wrench for 10, flat and Phillips screwdrivers, container for draining the coolant.

And smoothly, we pass to the main thing - description of replacing the stove radiator (heater) on cars Tavria, Slavuta, ZAZ-1102 with your own hands:

1. First of all, using a key for 14, you should unscrew the drain plug on the cylinder block (photo 2) and drain the antifreeze (or whatever you have filled in there) into a previously prepared container. If you decide to replace the coolant together with the radiator, then it is necessary to drain the fluid from the cooling radiator. To do this, find and unscrew the drain plug on the radiator in the lower right corner (photo 3).

2.Next, you need to unscrew the clamps of the two radiator pipes of the stove. You can see their location in photos 4 and 5. Isn't it a very convenient place? How well the clamps are hidden! This is about this unpleasant surprise, as I said above. You can, of course, try to twist them with a screwdriver or a spanner wrench and at the same time remember that in the same manner, you still have to tighten them. As they say, if you suffer for a long time, then something will work out! Or you can do it easier, as a last resort, I do so.

3. First, unscrew the pipe clamp that goes to the stove tap (photo 6). Remove the branch pipe. Next, we unscrew the clamp and remove the branch pipe from the water distribution pipe (photo 7).

4. We climb into the car, first from the driver's side. We disconnect the wires from the additional resistance of the stove electric motor (photo 8) and power supply (photo 9). We unscrew the fastening bar that goes from the torpedo to the heater body, if there is one, of course (photo 10)

5. With an end piece, with an extension cord, with a 10 key, unscrew the two nuts of the heater body (photo 11). Please note that massive wires "hang" on these pins; when assembling, do not forget to put them back in place. We unscrew the same two nuts on the right, passenger side (photo 12).

6. The stove body is lowered down and slightly towards ourselves. Now, access to the radiator pipes of the stove is more convenient (photo 13). We unscrew them. It remains only to unscrew the three self-tapping screws (photo 14) and pull out the stove radiator from the body. That is, it is not necessary to remove the heater housing from the passenger compartment. We do everything on the spot. Installing a new radiator. And we carry out the assembly in the reverse order.

That's all! Replacement of the stove radiator (heater) on Tavria, Slavuta, ZAZ-1102, ZAZ-1103, ZAZ-1105 cars was successful and fast. For 1-1.5, you can cope with this task without unnecessary haste))).

Tavria Nova / Slavuta. Replacing the radiator of the engine cooling system MeMZ-2477

1. Drain the cooling system

air. If the radiator does not fit into the container as a whole, check it sequentially from all sides.

8. Install the radiator in the reverse order of removal.

In order to further exclude the possibility of coolant leakage, before installing the hoses, lubricate the radiator pipes with a thin layer of silicone sealant.

9. Fill with coolant and remove air plugs from the cooling system (see "Replacing the coolant", page 71).

It is not at all surprising that with the onset of cold weather some problems associated with the heating system are revealed. There is nothing to be surprised at, because in the summer, hardly anyone wants to turn on the stove to heat the already excessively hot interior. In winter, you don't want to freeze in the cold iron "den", so every vehicle owner seeks to find the reason provoking unforeseen "surprises".

The heating and cooling system on the Tavria car has its own distinctive specifics. In particular, the outlet from the expansion tank is directly connected to the pump connection. For this reason, a cold liquid moving in a large circle is poured into the coolant moving in a small circle. It is this feature that does not allow the engine to warm up quickly, therefore, it does not allow the interior to warm up quickly. However, not only the technical characteristics of the car do not suit the owners of Tavria. Very often, individual devices that are part of the cooling and heating system fail. Without them, it is impossible even to talk about high-quality heating of the passenger compartment. If you are an indifferent owner of Tavria, if you are striving to improve the performance of its mechanisms and devices, then it will be useful for you to read the recommendations, replace the stove radiator, the heater itself on your beloved Tavria. Do not rush to transfer it into the wrong hands of the workshop masters, you will always have time to do this.It is better to personally take part in the fate of your "iron friend", and we will help you technically carry out all the "rehabilitating" actions, providing you with useful information.

If the interior of your car is extremely cold, and the stove persists and does not want to direct warm air currents in any way, then you should figure out which mechanism prevents the achievement of such tasks. Practice shows that in most cases the main culprit is the stove radiator, which quickly becomes dirty, leaks and other troubles. However, along with it, you can also upset the stove tap, thermostat and burst pipes. Of course, there is nothing joyful when such a situation arises, but nevertheless, one should not panic either. Any problem can be eliminated if the car owner is interested in it.

If you find a leak, then start looking for the place where the crack has formed. Inspect the connections carefully. Over time, they coarse, become oak, losing elasticity, for this reason, small cracks often appear on their surface at first, which subsequently spread out and turn into large ones. A burst pipe must be replaced, you cannot restore it, and it is most beneficial for you to say goodbye to an old element faster.

However, a leak can occur not only through the fault of the pipes and hoses. "Tears" can drip, and subsequently run like a stream due to a "leaky" radiator. Some of the self-taught masters may offer you to repair the radiator, to solder all the holes identified. Indeed, it can be soldered, but strictly adhering to the soldering technology. However, it is not worth it, it is easier to get a new radiator. Its cost is not high, so messing around with a "leaky" device is completely unprofitable. In addition, you will not experience any problems when removing the radiator. Unlike other vehicles, this cooling device on Tavria is installed in an accessible place, and the removal process is so simple that, if desired, a child can also do it.

If you decide to remove the radiator, stove engine in order to carry out repairs, initially select a container into which you will need to drain all the coolant so that it does not recklessly spill onto the ground. Subsequently, you can return the saved "cooler" back, so you can save yourself from unforeseen additional costs. After that, unscrew the clamps located on the branch pipes. Move to the passenger compartment and disconnect all power wires connected to the heater. Your next actions should be aimed at unscrewing two nuts. Note, however, that these nuts not only hold the stove body, but also hold the ground wires in place. Be careful not to damage them and do not forget about them when reassembling. Now grab the stove body and gently pull it down and then towards you. This completes the stove removal process. You can start repairs or get a new device that will need to be implemented in place of the one you just removed. If you decide to leave your old radiator, be sure to thoroughly clean it.

If you turn on the stove and find that the fan does not even try to start moving, then you should look for a problem in the electric motor. Very often, when a power surge occurs, a fuse blows. If you do not install a new one, no electrical devices will definitely function. The fuse cannot be repaired, it is a replaceable element, so it is important to say goodbye to it right away, completely rejecting the proposals of some would-be masters to install a jumper. Do not risk it, because such "magic" actions will make both the fan and the stove work, but at any moment there may be a surge in the power grid again, after which all the equipment will burn out.Waste then you will be incredible.

Unfortunately, it may also happen that you are convinced of the need to replace the stove motor on your Tavria. What do you have to spend finances and purchase a new motor if you really want to resume efficient heating of the passenger compartment?

It does not interfere with a poor supply of warm air to carry out actions aimed at eliminating airiness. Often, when pouring coolant into the system, air enters the system, which interferes with the normal operation of the stove. In this case, open the cover of the expansion tank, start the engine and let it run for at least five minutes. Only then can you close the cover of the expansion tank, the air lock will no longer disturb you.

So, of course, you need to tinker a little to fix the problems that you have identified. However, all these actions will not be done in vain, you will make sure that the interior of your car will become surprisingly comfortable and warm.

The best prices and conditions for the purchase of new cars

The repair of aluminum radiators has always caused a stir, both on the part of the owners of cars and on the part of the craftsmen. The former constantly wanted to fix all the faults, the latter to make money. In this article we will try to consider all aspects of the repair of aluminum radiators. Everything described below applies equally to both cooling radiators and stove radiators.

Most common radiator malfunctions:

• the appearance of cracks in the area of ​​the outlet and supply pipes of radiators;
• violation of the tightness of the tubes;
• violation of the tightness of the seals;
• the appearance of holes and cracks as a result of mechanical damage;
• poor fluid passage, as a result of clogged tubes.

First, let's take a look at the construction of aluminum radiators and what composite materials are used during their production. The first type is a traditional aluminum radiator with plastic tanks, it may differ depending on the model by the type of cup clamping and the manufacture of the core. As a rule, the tanks are clamped with a wave rolling or teeth.

Sometimes it may seem that the difference is only in the method of rolling, but this is not true. Without going into details, we note that the type of gasket used between the bottom of the radiator and the reservoir imposes certain restrictions, or, in other words, entails the use of a specific type of rolling. Now let's look at the types of cores.

Typesetting cores are divided into:

• solid-brazed;
• typesetting (or prefabricated).

Solid brazed

These radiators are more difficult to manufacture, and, accordingly, they are much more expensive than prefabricated ones. The meaning of the core is that it is collected, like copper, but then sent to a special furnace, with an inert gas atmosphere and a strictly defined temperature for sintering. Then, when the core is ready, plastic tanks are connected to it using wave rolling. Naturally, there are also combinations of the above methods in nature.

As a rule, prefabricated models are based on round tubes with a cross section of 7-11 millimeters, and stacked heat sink plates, they are not welded to the tubes, but simply tightly put on them. The advantage of this design is its low cost, since almost all work is done mechanically, without the help of welding. But still there is one type of prefabricated radiators, where the tubes are not rolled through silicone gaskets to a metal mesh, but are soldered to an aluminum one. To these radiators, in 99 percent of cases, the tanks are connected by means of a toothed expansion of a certain type.

A bit apart are all-aluminum radiators, in which the cores and tanks are made of aluminum. The cores of these radiators are always manufactured by all-brazed technology.

But, surprisingly, not a single cooling radiator from a major manufacturer uses this technology, since the tanks may need as much material as the core itself. The only exceptions are exclusive American radiators, they are made under the order of the capricious owner of the "drag" or restored "classics".

In our country, this technology is found either in stove radiators of some manufacturers (for example, Daewoo Nubira, Lanos), or in models of an openly Chinese or domestic manufacturer. But these two described options, although cheaper than a copper-brass radiator, but the quality of their assembly and design is completely copied from the brass models, and inherits all the "innate" shortcomings. In addition to the above, it must be said about aluminum stoves, their tanks are not welded to the grid, as they should be, but glued, and even with the help of glue, which is dangerous to use even to a garden watering can, not like to a heating radiator.

That is, in order to make a high-quality aluminum radiator, which, in addition to a good heat sink, can still withstand mechanical and hydrodynamic loads long time, careful design is required, and the use of sophisticated equipment during production. And this increases the cost of the final product, which will immediately transfer it from the category of leaders, in comparison with the "copper" product, to the level of expensive outsiders.

Since, for example, at a GAZelle, on our roads, a brass radiator rarely drives off without breakdowns 40,000 Km, which is about a year with a daily load of 100 Km. After overhauling the radiator with our own hands, we can double its life time, unlike the factory one, but it is quite difficult to do this with an aluminum analogue, and most importantly, it is not very profitable financially. Here is a reason to ponder whether you need to save money when buying between an aluminum and a brass radiator?

As a rule, craftsmen call stoves and radiators exotic, which can be very rarely found. As an example, you can cite a heating device Opel Omega 1992, it is made of an all-plastic mesh (bottom) and tanks, made in one piece, and connected to an inlaid core, which has oval tubes, with a welded-on turbulator. Apart from this example, there are also a number of rare varieties, but this, again, is rare.

It should be noted that the more exotic the radiator is on your car, the more difficult it is for car mechanics to repair it, and not only because of the complexity of combining different materials, but also because the experience of many craftsmen simply does not make it possible to apply the tried and true one the first time repair option. That is, an inexperienced master will perform repairs at random, while learning the subtleties, so to speak, exercising with his own hands on your radiator, gaining experience for himself.

As mentioned above, plastic tanks make it easier tos and make the design cheaper. But it is necessary to make a reservation, the term "plastic", considering the tanks, is not very correct, since they are based on polypropylene, and no one will disclose the rest of the additives and impurities, survival in a competitive environment depends on it. Here you can find fiberglass reinforcement, fillers, and other tricks.

After a certain time, the plastic tanks dry up, the plastic base changes under the influence of a constant temperature difference, and they become brittle and form a leak. In this case, the best option would be to replace the radiator with a new one, because replacing the reservoir is not always cost-effective. But sometimes, if we consider exclusive models, you cannot do anything, how to repair cracks in the tank with your own hands, but here the second question arises - which repair option is better?

There is three main repair options:

• replacing the tank with a metal one, which is welded or soldered in place of the plastic one;
• soldering the tank with plastic;
• use of special polymers.

The first method is the most reliable, but also the most expensive, and there is still a problem with the second tank (since there are two of them in the radiator). If you replace two tanks, the cost will be such that it is easier to order a new, original radiator, and all the assurances of the masters, such as the radiator will be eternal, you need to ignore it, since the aluminum part also has a certain resource, and it decreases simultaneously with the resource of plastic cisterns. The high price of these tanks is explained by the fact that they are not made by the master himself, but by an industrial plant, like an aviation plant (Antonov Design Bureau or KhAZ), and the master only welds it with his own hands using argon welding.

The next two methods are more accessible, since use of polymers and plastic soldering is both cheaper and faster, and during the operation of an already very old radiator, it will make it possible to "turn over" before purchasing a new one, without large capital investments. But I must say that soldering a complex composition of polypropylene is sometimes even dangerous, you can make it even more fragile in the soldering area.

The repair of the aluminum honeycomb itself always caused a severe headache, both for the owners of the cars and for the craftsmen. The main reason is both sometimes a very complex and almost unrepairable design, and rather thin metal in radiators that do not have “weak points” in the design, so to speak. But let's look at everything in order.

The first type that we will describe is a prefabricated car radiator, which, as we said above, is inexpensive, but its high-quality repair requires quite large material investments, but at the same time it is quite possible with the hands of professionals. Design consists of a honeycomb part, which, by the way, if it breaks, it is not often, as a rule, the rubber seals fail first. Round honeycombs are fixed to the mesh by rolling, through a rubber seal, which is plastic at the beginning of life.

But this is only at first, and only when pouring high-quality antifreeze, then the gasket turns into just a terrible sight. For example, the resource of a German radiator, which is operated on high-quality antifreeze, is about 11-16 years, a Soviet one - 7-11 years, the resource of a modern and Chinese one can sometimes be from 20 minutes to several years.

If the soldering of the central part of this radiator (well, rubbed it, or punched it with a screwdriver) is possible with the help of special solders, then it is profitable and efficient for both sides, it is almost impossible to repair the "sinister connection". Some workshops, at one time developed a composition that makes it possible to solder aluminum honeycombs to a steel mesh, but, of course, it is inappropriate to use it for repairs, for example, for VAZ-2107 products, this option is well suited only for repairing "foreign cars".

This is already a more advanced product, which requires an advanced and expensive intervention during the repair. Since the solid-brazed unit is almost never found in budget cars (for example, Daewoo Lanos installs a solid-brazed version, while Daewoo Sens is type-set), the slightly more expensive repair cost justifies itself almost all the time.

Complication of soldering, for example, of corner honeycomb packages is explained by the fact that different metal thicknesses will not allow the craftsman, even a professional who handles the torch, to melt the solder, the temperature of which often reaches 500-650 degrees, and at the same time not damage the plastic tank.

Removing it for this is also impractical, and you can damage the factory connection, an alternative is a high-quality photopolymer or polymer.

As a result, I would like to say that the aluminum radiators of a car with their plastic tanks, although quite difficult to repair, but with a competent approach and high-quality materials, make it possible to achieve excellent results.