In detail: do-it-yourself repair of VAZ 2107 radiators from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
In every car, an integral part of the equipment is a stove, without which heating the interior and comfortable driving is impossible. Sometimes there are problems with the VAZ 2107 heater, as a result of which it is required to repair or replace certain elements.
Many malfunctions with a car occur with the arrival of cold weather, and this is especially true for cars of the domestic auto industry. One of the main problems is the inefficient operation of the heating system, as a result of which the windshield and side windows are poorly heated. Owners of VAZ 2107 quite often encounter a situation when the interior of the car simply does not warm up in winter. In this case, there is no need to talk about any comfort of passengers and the driver. To understand what the reasons are and to eliminate a possible malfunction, you first need to understand the design of the "seven" heater.
The main elements of the VAZ 2107 stove are:
- radiator;
- tap;
- fan;
- control cables;
- air ducts.
Details of the heater and ventilation of the body VAZ 2107: 1 - the lever of the air distribution cover; 2 - bracket for control levers; 3 - heater control levers; 4 - air duct for heating the side glass; 5 - flexible rods; 6 - heating air duct
As the vehicle is operated, certain malfunctions may occur with the stove, which reduce the efficiency of the unit or make it completely impossible to work. There are not so many symptoms of basic problems and they boil down to the following:
As for the life of the stove, it is inappropriate to give any numbers. It all depends on the quality of the parts, the coolant used, as well as the frequency of vehicle operation.
If the heat exchanger leaks, then it will not be difficult to detect it. The coolant in the form of a puddle will be under the feet of the driver or passengers. However, do not rush to conclusions and buy a new radiator for replacement. The leak can be associated not only with him, but also with leaky pipes or a faucet. To do this, you need to get close to these elements and carefully examine them with good lighting. After making sure that the problem is not with them, only the radiator remains. By the way, sometimes when a leak appears, when the stove fan is running, the windshield fogs up and a characteristic smell of antifreeze appears. Having found out that the reason lies in the heat exchanger, it will need to be removed, and then repaired or replaced with a new one.
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If the engine is warmed up, the stove tap is open, but cold air is coming from the heating system, then most likely the radiator is clogged or there is a low level of antifreeze in the cooling system. To check the coolant (coolant) level, just look at the level in the expansion tank or unscrew the main radiator cap on the muffled engine. If there are no problems with the level, then you need to deal with the heat exchanger, you may have to flush it or completely the entire cooling system. To avoid possible clogging of the heater radiator, you should not add various additives that eliminate small leaks. Such media can easily clog the tubes of the stove.
Cold airflow from the heating system can also be caused by airing the system. In this case, you will need to remove the air plug and add coolant.
Airing - the appearance of an air lock in the cooling system during repair work or when replacing the coolant.
The heater valve may fail over time as a result of scale formation
In addition, the problem is possible with the tap itself, which over time can become clogged or scale build up if water is used instead of antifreeze. In case of malfunctions with the tap, the part is disassembled and cleaned or simply changed. Another, albeit rare, but possible reason for a cold stove, may be a pump failure. In this case, the engine warms up, but the pipes leading to the heater radiator remain cold. In this case, the water pump must be repaired immediately. Warm air may also not enter the passenger compartment due to problems with the stove fan. The problem can be both with the motor itself and with its power circuit, for example, when a fuse blows.
Having found out that the heater needs repair, it will need to be completely or partially dismantled. If there is a problem with the motor, then it is enough to remove the lower part of the unit. If there is a problem with the radiator, you must first drain the coolant from the engine cooling system. To carry out repair work, you will need the following tools:
- Phillips and flat screwdrivers;
- set of open-end and socket wrenches.
To replace the stove, you will need a set of keys and screwdrivers
After the coolant drains and the necessary tool is prepared, you can proceed to disassembly. It is carried out in the following order:
In most cases, there is no need to completely dismantle the heater. They usually change a radiator, faucet or motor.
If only the radiator is being replaced, it will not be superfluous to inspect the electric motor and lubricate it.
Assembling the heater does not cause any difficulties, since all actions are performed in the reverse order of disassembly. However, there are some points to consider. When replacing a radiator, new rubber seals must be installed. They are pre-coated with silicone sealant. The nuts should be tightened without using any special efforts so as not to squeeze out the seals, thereby breaking the tightness.
When installing a new radiator, it is recommended to replace the rubber seals
When the heat exchanger is installed in place, and the stove is completely assembled, the edges of the inlet and outlet pipes are lubricated with sealant. If the pipes are in a normal state, that is, the rubber is not cracked, leave them after wiping the inner cavity with a clean rag. Then put on the hoses and tighten the clamps. After assembly, it remains to fill in coolant and check the tightness of the connections.
During the operation of the car after repair, you should also observe the joints for leaks.
If there are problems with the "seven" stove, you can fix them with your own hands, due to the simplicity of the assembly. To remove and replace the heater, you will need to prepare a set of tools and follow the step-by-step instructions.
If a car's radiator leaks, then most of us resort to replacing it. However, in most cases it is possible not to change, but to repair the radiator. Sometimes no skills are required, but sometimes it is impossible to do without knowledge in the field of welding or soldering. We learn to determine the condition and try to restore the radiator with our own hands.
The most common problem is when the radiator leaks due to old age. Coolant (coolant) runs out of the joints between metal and plastic, which automatically leads to overheating of the engine. It is not always possible to find a replacement radiator, and repairs will cost at least 2 times cheaper than a new one.
Further speech will be about car radiators in general and it does not matter if it is a repair of a heater radiator, an air conditioner radiator or a radiator of the engine cooling system.
Repair of a radiator with chemistry.Minor damages can be repaired with special products known on the market as radiator refurbishing fluid, radiator sealant, or powder reductants. The principle of operation is approximately the same: pour the radiator reductant into the engine cooling system (SOD). The resulting mixture will seal cracks when exposed to air.
Chemistry is different from chemistry, therefore, it is impossible to answer for the quality of such a method as a whole. For example, a low-quality reductant may not help, but, on the contrary, harm it by clogging up the entire SOD. For example, the stove will stop heating and it will be necessary to flush the SOD or change the radiator of the stove. Better chemistry is able to eliminate radiator leakage only for a while (from several days to several months). Thus, chemistry for repairing a radiator is only a temporary solution to the problem.
There is a popular method for repairing radiators. It consists in patching holes using cold welding (a material similar to plasticine, which hardens after use). It is better to close up a small hole in the radiator after degreasing the work surface well. If the hole in the radiator is large, then a piece of tin can be used as a patch, which is again glued with cold welding.
We repair the radiator honeycomb with a mixture of epoxy resin and hardener. Degrease and pour the substance into the damaged honeycomb and level it with a spatula. Now the holes in the radiator are 100% sealed.
In general, the folk method involves the use of many materials for sealing, I just showed the main ones. Whether this approach can be called a high-quality radiator repair, decide for yourself.
The following instruction assumes knowledge of basic welding and soldering skills.
To repair the radiator permanently, it must be removed, but before that the coolant must be drained from it (described in detail in the article on cleaning the radiator). Now that the radiator is dismantled, we can determine its condition, whether the radiator can be repaired or replaced with a new one.
Repair the radiator by soldering. We clean the place that will be restored well and solder a piece of sheet brass (brass radiators). Here you need to resort to using a gas torch and a soldering iron. 
If the radiator tubes are cracked, then it is better to replace them with new ones. We heat the solder until it becomes soft and take the tube out of the tank. In its place we solder a new one. The disadvantage of this method is the effect of high temperatures on the elements of the radiator, which leads to its internal deformation. Therefore, it is better to use argon arc welding (argon welding).
Repair of a radiator with argon welding. The filler material here is a special welded aluminum wire. Special equipment is indispensable here. It should be noted that places treated with argon will be protected from oxidation.
Repair of a radiator using gas-dynamic spraying. When a special powder is accelerated along the inside of the radiator at a very high speed, a 1-1.5mm thick coating forms on the damaged surface. It makes no sense to describe these two methods, because they cannot be done at home.
There are various ways to repair a car radiator, each of which has its own advantages and disadvantages. In one case, there will be a short-term repair of the radiator, and in the other for a long time. If you doubt your abilities, then it is better to entrust the mission of restoring the radiator to specialists and argon welding. They will not only repair, but immediately clean the radiator and, if desired, install a brass tank.
If the radiator is damaged after a frontal collision of the car, then repairs will cost a pretty penny. It is more correct in this case to buy a new high-quality radiator.
If car radiator leakingthen most of us resort to replacing it. However, in most cases it is possible not to change, but repair radiator... Sometimes no skills are required, but sometimes it is impossible to do without knowledge in the field of welding or soldering. We learn to define the state and try restore the radiator with your own hands.
Further speech will be about car radiators in general and it does not matter if it is a repair of a heater radiator, an air conditioner radiator or a radiator of the engine cooling system.
Hello everyone! My name is Mikhail, now I'll tell you a story about how I managed to exchange a dvenashka for a 2010 Camry. It all started with the fact that I was wildly annoyed by the breakdowns of the two, like nothing serious broke down, but the little things, damn it, so many things that really started to enrage. Here the idea was born that it was time to change the car to a foreign car. The choice fell on the tayet Camry of the tenths.
Video demonstration of the operation of the liquid for the restoration of the radiator:
Chemistry - chemistry is different, therefore, it is impossible to answer for the quality of this method as a whole. For example, a low-quality reductant may not help, but, on the contrary, harm it by clogging up the entire SOD. For example, the stove will stop heating and it will be necessary to flush the SOD or change the radiator of the stove. Better chemistry is able to eliminate radiator leakage only for a while (from several days to several months). In this way, radiator repair chemistry is only a temporary solution to the problem.
There is folk method of repairing radiators... It consists in patching holes using cold welding (a material similar to plasticine, which hardens after use). It is better to close up a small hole in the radiator after degreasing the work surface well. If the hole in the radiator is large, then you can use a piece of tin as a patch, which is again glued with cold welding.
Repair honeycomb radiator can be a mixture of epoxy resin and hardener. Degrease and pour the substance into the damaged honeycomb and level it with a spatula. Now the holes in the radiator are 100% sealed.
In general, the folk method involves the use of many materials for sealing, I just showed the main ones. Whether this approach can be called a high-quality radiator repair, decide for yourself.
The following instruction assumes knowledge of basic welding and soldering skills.
To repair the radiator permanently, it must be removed, but before that, the coolant must be drained from it (described in detail in the article on cleaning the radiator). Now that the radiator is dismantled, we can determine its condition, whether the radiator can be repaired or replaced with a new one.
Repair the radiator by soldering... We clean the place that will be restored well and solder a piece of sheet brass (brass radiators). Here you need to resort to using a gas torch and a soldering iron.
If cracked radiator tubes, then it is better to replace them with new ones. We heat the solder until it becomes soft and take the tube out of the tank. In its place we solder a new one. The disadvantage of this method is the effect of high temperatures on the elements of the radiator, which leads to its internal deformation. Therefore, it is better to use argon arc welding (argon welding).
Repair of a radiator using gas-dynamic spraying... When a special powder is accelerated along the inside of the radiator at a very high speed, a 1-1.5mm thick coating forms on the damaged surface. It makes no sense to describe these two methods, because they cannot be done at home.
Video showing argon radiator repair:
If the radiator is damaged after a head-on collision of the car, then the repair will cost a pretty penny. It is more correct in this case to buy a new high-quality radiator.
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What method of radiator repair do you recommend?
The repair of aluminum radiators has always caused a stir, both on the part of the owners of cars and on the part of the craftsmen. The former constantly wanted to fix all the faults, the latter to make money. In this article we will try to consider all aspects of the repair of aluminum radiators. Everything described below applies equally to both cooling radiators and stove radiators.
Most common radiator malfunctions:
- the appearance of cracks in the area of the outlet and supply pipes of radiators;
- violation of the tightness of the tubes;
- violation of the tightness of the seals;
- the appearance of holes and cracks as a result of mechanical damage;
- poor fluid passage, as a result of clogged tubes.
First, let's take a look at the construction of aluminum radiators and what composite materials are used during their production. The first type is a traditional aluminum radiator with plastic tanks, it may differ depending on the model by the type of cup clamping and the manufacture of the core. As a rule, the tanks are clamped with a wave rolling or teeth.
Sometimes it may seem that the difference is only in the method of rolling, but this is not true. Without going into details, we note that the type of gasket used between the bottom of the radiator and the reservoir imposes certain restrictions, or, in other words, entails the use of a specific type of rolling. Now let's look at the types of cores.
Typesetting cores are divided into:
- solid-brazed;
- typesetting (or prefabricated).
Solid brazed
These radiators are more difficult to manufacture, and, accordingly, they are much more expensive than prefabricated ones. The meaning of the core is that it is collected, like copper, but then sent to a special furnace, with an inert gas atmosphere and a strictly defined temperature for sintering. Then, when the core is ready, plastic tanks are connected to it using wave rolling. Naturally, there are also combinations of the above methods in nature.
As a rule, prefabricated models are based on round tubes with a cross section of 7-11 millimeters, and stacked heat sink plates, they are not welded to the tubes, but simply tightly put on them.The advantage of this design is its low cost, since almost all work is done mechanically, without the help of welding. But still there is one type of prefabricated radiators, where the tubes are not rolled through silicone gaskets to a metal mesh, but are soldered to an aluminum one. To these radiators, in 99 percent of cases, the tanks are connected by means of a toothed expansion of a certain type.
A bit apart are all-aluminum radiators, in which the cores and tanks are made of aluminum. The cores of these radiators are always manufactured by all-brazed technology.
But, surprisingly, not a single cooling radiator from a major manufacturer uses this technology, since the tanks may require as much material as the core itself. The only exceptions are exclusive American radiators, they are made under the order of the capricious owner of the "drag" or restored "classics".
In our country, this technology is found either in stove radiators of some manufacturers (for example, Daewoo Nubira, Lanos), or in models of an openly Chinese or domestic manufacturer. But these two described options, although cheaper than a copper-brass radiator, but the quality of their assembly and design is completely copied from the brass models, and inherits all the "innate" shortcomings. In addition to the above, it must be said about aluminum stoves, their tanks are not welded to the grid, as they should be, but glued, and even with the help of glue, which is dangerous to use even to a garden watering can, not like to a heating radiator.
That is, in order to make a high-quality aluminum radiator, which, in addition to a good heat sink, can still withstand mechanical and hydrodynamic loads long time, careful design is required, and the use of sophisticated equipment during production. And this increases the cost of the final product, which will immediately transfer it from the category of leaders, in comparison with the "copper" product, to the level of expensive outsiders.
Since, for example, at a GAZelle, on our roads, a brass radiator rarely drives off without breakdowns 40,000 Km, which is about a year with a daily load of 100 Km. After overhauling the radiator with our own hands, we can double its life time, unlike the factory one, but it is quite difficult to do this with an aluminum analogue, and most importantly, it is not very profitable financially. Here is a reason to ponder whether you need to save money when buying between an aluminum and a brass radiator?
As a rule, craftsmen call stoves and radiators exotic, which can be very rarely found. As an example, you can cite a heating device Opel Omega 1992, it is made of an all-plastic mesh (bottom) and tanks, made in one piece, and connected to an inlaid core, which has oval tubes, with a welded-on turbulator. Apart from this example, there are also a number of rare varieties, but this, again, is rare.
It should be noted that the more exotic the radiator is on your car, the more difficult it is for car mechanics to repair it, and not only because of the complexity of combining different materials, but also because the experience of many craftsmen simply does not make it possible to apply the tried and true one the first time repair option. That is, an inexperienced master will perform repairs at random, while learning the subtleties, so to speak, exercising with his own hands on your radiator, gaining experience for himself.
As mentioned above, plastic tanks make it easier tos and make the design cheaper. But it is necessary to make a reservation, the term "plastic", considering the tanks, is not very correct, since they are based on polypropylene, and no one will disclose the rest of the additives and impurities, survival in a competitive environment depends on it. Here you can find fiberglass reinforcement, fillers, and other tricks.
After a certain time, the plastic tanks dry up, the plastic base changes under the influence of a constant temperature difference, and they become brittle and form a leak. In this case, the best option would be to replace the radiator with a new one, because replacing the reservoir is not always cost-effective. But sometimes, if we consider exclusive models, you cannot do anything, how to repair cracks in the tank with your own hands, but here the second question arises - which repair option is better?
There is three main repair options:
- replacing the tank with a metal one, which is welded or soldered in place of the plastic one;
- soldering the tank with plastic;
- use of special polymers.
The first method is the most reliable, but also the most expensive, and there is still a problem with the second tank (since there are two of them in the radiator). If you replace two tanks, the cost will be such that it is easier to order a new, original radiator, and all the assurances of the masters, such as the radiator will be eternal, you need to ignore it, since the aluminum part also has a certain resource, and it decreases simultaneously with the resource of plastic cisterns. The high price of these tanks is explained by the fact that they are not made by the master himself, but by an industrial plant, like an aviation plant (Antonov Design Bureau or KhAZ), and the master only welds it with his own hands using argon welding.
The next two methods are more accessible, since use of polymers and plastic soldering is both cheaper and faster, and during the operation of an already very old radiator, it will make it possible to "turn over" before purchasing a new one, without large capital investments. But I must say that soldering a complex composition of polypropylene is sometimes even dangerous, you can make it even more fragile in the soldering area.
The repair of the aluminum honeycomb itself always caused a severe headache, both for the owners of the cars and for the craftsmen. The main reason is both sometimes a very complex and almost unrepairable design, and rather thin metal in radiators that do not have “weak points” in the design, so to speak. But let's look at everything in order.
The first type that we will describe is a prefabricated car radiator, which, as we said above, is inexpensive, but its high-quality repair requires quite large material investments, but at the same time it is quite possible with the hands of professionals. Design consists of a honeycomb part, which, by the way, if it breaks, it is not often, as a rule, rubber seals fail first. Round honeycombs are fixed to the mesh by rolling, through a rubber seal, which is plastic at the beginning of life.
But this is only at first, and only when pouring high-quality antifreeze, then the gasket turns into just a terrible sight. For example, the resource of a German radiator, which is operated on high-quality antifreeze, is about 11-16 years, a Soviet one - 7-11 years, the resource of a modern and Chinese one can sometimes be from 20 minutes to several years.
If the soldering of the central part of this radiator (well, rubbed it, or punched it with a screwdriver) is possible with the help of special solders, then it is profitable and efficient for both sides, it is almost impossible to repair the "sinister connection". Some workshops, at one time developed a composition that makes it possible to solder aluminum honeycombs to a steel mesh, but, of course, it is inappropriate to use it for repairs, for example, for VAZ-2107 products, this option is well suited only for repairing "foreign cars".
This is already a more advanced product, which requires an advanced and expensive intervention during the repair. Since the solid-brazed unit is almost never found in budget cars (for example, Daewoo Lanos installs a solid-brazed version, while Daewoo Sens is type-set), the slightly more expensive repair cost justifies itself almost all the time.
Complication of soldering, for example, of corner honeycomb packages is explained by the fact that different metal thicknesses will not allow the craftsman, even a professional who handles the torch, to melt the solder, the temperature of which often reaches 500-650 degrees, and at the same time not damage the plastic tank.
Removing it for this is also impractical, and you can damage the factory connection, an alternative is a high-quality photopolymer or polymer.
As a result, I would like to say that the aluminum radiators of a car with their plastic tanks, although quite difficult to repair, but with a competent approach and high-quality materials, make it possible to achieve excellent results.
