DIY bm54 radio unit repair

I am posting my photo report on improving the BMW Business C53. The flight is normal. The cassette, however, had to be thrown out, and the radio tape recorder, when turned on, is outraged by this, but in general, do not care ..

P.S. By the way, no one knows, if you take a handkerchief from the cassette module, and insert only one of it into the radio tape recorder - will the radio tape recorder stop swearing?

I'll raise the topic again
So. some time ago the right side of the E53 wheezed and recently stopped playing altogether. A break in the internet and re-reading a bunch of forums - we see that the problem is VERY common and already even has a "solution". BUT. with all its uniformity (installing a new amplifier in the unit or outside of it), the methods for many differ

, so I want to summarize and identify the best option for repair, as well as the most visual one.
The ideal option is to keep the phone, parking sensors, navigation, and the music itself working, so from the photos and descriptions I will highlight the main points and immediately the questions that I have about the repair process:

1. Places for removing the signal to the new amplifier

Item 1A) From capacitors (most common) https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/2722/i091/0912/51/8d46706be9be.jpg
*** (Not quite suitable, although it is the most common. The phone and Navi, as I understand it, disappear.)

Item 1B) From preamplifier chips with 1st and 7th legs. (in the photo the legs are signed incorrectly, because people wondered for a long time where this 7th leg is ... later I will add where it is correct) https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/280/forum/attachmen. 0 & d = 1289857720
*** (in principle, this point practically does not differ from A, with the exception of more painstaking and careful soldering work, but in the future you can not cut the tracks, but evaporate the capacitors as in Point 2 B.)

Point 1B) From the contacts under the soldered chips as did PilotBMW https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/280/forum/picture.p. pictureid = 7355
*** (perhaps the most interesting option, but there is NO clear photograph and a clear description of where to solder in place of the soldered chips.)

Point 1D) Take from certain points on the board. There were several options, most of which are limited to posts in the form “I did everything, something is there somewhere and everything is super. bye everyone "
(as an example, I took the version with the photo of Darky (post 154)), etc.
*** (so far I decided to stop on it, but there is little information (there is no photo of the result, it is not entirely clear that the author soldered the chips, or he simply took someone else's photo and circled the places for clarity, as has already been done repeatedly))

Item 1E) Power supply to the masterkit amplifier
*** (No signatures where plus is top or bottom) https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/1882/0912/87/efc793e836d8.jpg

2. Chopping off the old signal

Step 2A) Cut with a knife ictureid = 78242
*** (when cutting the tracks with a knife, there is a chance to chop off something you need (there were cases))

Item 2B) Unsolder the chips (video from YouTube)
*** (it seems to me the most acceptable option, the only question is that it will not be possible to restore in any way if it is necessary to redo it according to a different scheme, but perhaps it will not be necessary.)

Point 2B) Desolder the capacitors that are in the photo from point 1A. (I did not find a single photo after soldering)
*** (probably this point (2B) makes sense ONLY in tandem with point 1B, when we are soldered to the preamplifier chips)

Paragraph 2D) Remove tracks from the board (video) and met on one photo ctureid = 116906
*** (from the point of view of aesthetics - beautiful, but how effective and what result - zero information.)

3. Amplifier Masterkit BM2043 (TDA7560) 4х77W

Step 3A) Power on clicks
*** (There are no clear photos and instructions on this matter ... A possible reason lies in the SW1 jumper on the masterkit board (and possibly in the japer, since there are 2 of them). Only I did not understand whether the problem can be solved by simply pulling out the jumper ... and how is this connected with soldering to one of the contacts of SW1 wires up to pin 13 of the block of the block itself)
/211918367.jpg
/211918368.jpg

Item 3B) Guidance from the engine
*** (there is no clear dependence, someone does not appear, someone does not. It is solved, as I understand it, by installing a filter or a throttle in the gap in the power supply of the masterkit)

Point 3B) Although there is a circuit from the amplifier, it would be much easier if someone from the "knowledgeable" signed on the photo of the board where which channels go (in front of the rear left to the right, and not channel 1,2,3,4 X1- 15, as in the native instructions)

_________________________
I would be very grateful for any help in these matters. As a result, I will try to create the most informative rework manual for the same sufferers

.

Today I will probably start soldering as Darky advises

https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/280/forum/showpost. & postcount = 154
(I will not touch the chips yet ... I’ll wait for answers) ... when you look like the block board has 2 layers top and bottom ... those points that he indicated on the upper part go away and to the lower one, it will be easier to solder there
70 / full_image / - circled where I want to solder (the points are identical to the points in Darky's post, only on the other side of the board)

I also took high-quality photos so that I could use them for signatures and drawings
General view (capacitors, preamplifier chips, etc.)
/211918371.jpg
/211918378.jpg
Masterkit power supply and signal outputs from the amplifier to the radio block
/211918377.jpg
Masterkit
/211918374.jpg

So: I re-soldered the radio unit, but there are still some drawbacks (as soon as I have free time I will fix and add)
I don’t know why, but I dabbled like never before with this block. if the dots are too small. roofing felts have forgotten how to hold a soldering iron in my hands (it seems like my hands are growing from the right place and I am repairing a lot myself). Everything is too tiny. I always strove to hook or solder something that was unnecessary, always something fell off. etc. I would have known in advance that I would be so tormented - I would have given a repair with pictures of where and how to solder it.
What is needed

62 / full_image /

Places to “take” the plus and minus signals to the speakers (input to the masterkit) are common options.

Large format 50 / full_image /

I, as I said, went a little differently and soldered from other points (the music works, but the phone and Navi have not yet been tested). I have not yet figured out which of the points is responsible for which channel (in order to know exactly where to connect then in front of the back to the left to the right). as soon as I figure it out, I'll sign the picture

Large format
39 / full_image /

Not entirely aesthetically pleasing (due to the complexity of soldering, as I wrote above, everything was constantly falling off). but - the main thing is that it works

I signed the signals for output from the masterkit to the columns and the points for feeding the masterkit (for some reason I made a mistake with the plus of the power supply for the masterkit.It will be visible in the photo further - I took the point a little higher. Apparently fatigue affected, but surprisingly everything works)
Here on the photo the correct option is signed - how it should be

Big size
57 / full_image /

Then I decided to “cut off” the old signal from the speakers by this method (as it seemed at first, it was the most accurate, fast and effective)
But looking ahead, I will say that during the first testing it turned out that the signal from the old chips continues to go to the speakers. more precisely, for some reason, on the 1st. front left, the masterkit did not work and there were some clicks in the left rear speaker.

As a result, I decided to evaporate the chips. a video of how to do this is in my post above.

I also cleaned the blackness with a soldering iron (the stinks were horrible. There must be a ventilated room. It is unrealistic to tear off with a knife)

After removing the blackness, you need to view the edges of the tracks for closures. in the process of removing blackness, the edges may shift slightly on top of each other

Before installing in the case, we have this view (on the right in the picture you can see the already soldered jumper from SW1, which on the other side is soldered + 12V antenna.It is the 13th pin as I understand it)

Big size
00 / full_image /

we prepare the masterkit itself (then I will also add signatures). we make holes in the radiator, etc. (the radiator only found this. can later be replaced with a more massive one. it heats up really well)

We collect everything in the building

Big size
89 / full_image /

Big size
87 / full_image /

The result is music. I can’t say that something has changed dramatically there. the sound is approximately the same as it was. There is no click / knock when turned on.on a muffled car, all the rules, on a wound one, there are small tips (you need to somehow win - logically, slap a throttle, as it was written, but I don't understand this at all)
What else I noticed is that the casing began to rattle kapets like when playing bass tracks.
A little later, I will change the channels on the masterkit (since I did not know which one is responsible for what) - it turned out that the front and back were confused on one side.

Well. something like this.
I hope someone will help in this difficult repair issue.
And I also want to give advice, so as not to ruin your time, nerves and health - to take all these vechendals to the workshop, where any normal craftsman with his hands on pictures and descriptions will solder everything for you in an hour. Soldering these miniature contacts yourself is sheer nerd

Newbie

User
Posts: 8
Registration: 22.7.2013
From: Lemberg

BMW 525d, e39, 2003. mk4. 16: 9.
Everything was fine yesterday. I got into the car, started it, turn on the radio and a terrible sound, squeak, background begins. I dumped the terminal on the battery, nothing helped (((having resigned food already without music, and then a squeak in the cabin from the speakers begins, either in front or behind with some kind of, in a word, chaotically squeaks. turned it on and off once and the squeak disappeared miraculously for 10 times.and now on the video you can hear and see that the phoning, cracking and peeping in any mode, or TAPE, or CD, or Radio, even on TV and then the problem is precisely in the radio unit. , because I put another one and everything worked fine. I took my radio unit to the master, he dropped the rulers for me. I connected an external amplifier, and only one channel, and you can hear that only one speaker is working, for example, the rear left, that is, it is clear that the amplifier is external, not the radio unit, but the background that was present before is still heard. But the tracks on the crystals were not cut in the radio unit. Who faced such a problem, help please. BE . guesswork is not needed, you need someone to confidently say what the problem is exactly. Thank you. (IMG: https: //forum.my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/828/style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

Post has been edited David24 – 22.7.2013, 22:24

good afternoon. badly picks up the radio. e39 restyling, station wagon.

MYTHbI 14 March 2017

kind! the vm54 radio module rendered half of the speakers! how much does it cost? how to get together?

vova8090 15 March 2017

By Andrew 20 April 2017

Hello, how much does it cost to replace a UM in a bm54

Raev1985 30 May 2017

bolobol 09 June 2017

Repair of the VM54 unit is required
pm
Thank you

Tell me if such a thing can replace BM54

dima4906 21 August 2017

Good afternoon, e60 not rest., Problem with playing CDs, there is a navigation reflash for reading mp3, after 3-4 years it started to read songs badly. It reads, then no. bought a cleaning disc, has not changed much.

BUMEROLOG 21 November 2017

Good evening, there is no sound at all in the e65 and the radio does not turn on, the time is not set. The price of the issue. Thank you

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