DIY ocean 209 radio repair

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of the ocean 209 radio receiver from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

This experience is for a beginner who has reached the moral right to be called a "teapot" from electronics. That is, someone who already knows how to turn on a soldering iron, who understands the difference between radio components, well, at least in appearance and knows that these are electronic components. At the same time, he who has an enduring desire to bring back to life one of the electronic devices gathering dust in his closet, and with the condition of mandatory success. For starters, let it be an old “Ocean-209” radio receiver, perhaps even an old one. It is serviceable, but it is simply not possible to use it. The reason is, for example, not quite adequate sound reproduction. The first thing that needs to be learned and throughout the entire event to remember is that "in one sitting" the repair can not be overpowered, so do everything thoroughly and during the repair, do not really rely on your excellent memory, but make notes and even a photo of what you have to do in the process. He began by searching the Internet for information, and in full, about the radio receiver being restored. This is an operating manual, a diagram of the arrangement of blocks and assemblies on the chassis of a radio receiver, a schematic electrical diagram, wiring diagrams of printed circuit boards and a list of assemblies and parts used in it.

After reading the instructions and studying the circuits of the radio receiver, I unscrewed the screws and removed the back cover, side case and front panel.

He did not burden himself with super-complicated tasks, but simply, as advised by most of the luminaries of electronics, he decided to check the health of electrolytic capacitors and variable resistors, to replace the unusable ones. To do this, I removed separate units of the low-frequency amplifier and power supply from the chassis. When performing this operation, it is best to cut the connecting wires in half and put on a piece of cardboard with a written serial number at each end. There will be two cardboard boxes, but the number on them is the same. As for the wires, it is still necessary to install new ones during assembly.

Video (click to play).

I started with the power supply as the most understandable unit. It is clear from the schematic diagram that its transformer is designed to work with both 220 V and 127 V mains voltages. to get rid of 🙂

Having measured the resistance of the input windings of the transformer, I revealed the average tap for 127 V, bit off the bare end, wound it up with a ring and isolated it. The presence and location of electronic components is especially clearly visible on the wiring diagram. There is only one electrolyte of interest to me. I solder it, discharge it and measure the capacity - it is not enough to the norm of 60 μF, but the ESR probe shows the minimum allowable resistance. Therefore, I decide to put it in its place and in parallel to it solder another capacitor with a capacity of 100 μF, somewhat larger than what is lacking, but for the same voltage - 25 V. ESR acceptable value. I did it, applied the mains voltage of 220 V to the power supply unit and measured the output received - everything is normal, the power supply unit is working properly.

Now the sound amplifier. Everything is more serious here.

I find seven K50-12 electrolytic capacitors on the board, which are very ancient in appearance. I move the wiring diagram closer to me and unsolder one leg from the board from each container. Naturally where possible. Where not, the capacitor is completely evaporated.

You can completely evaporate everything, there is a mounting, but it may not be there, and then it will save a lot of time and nerves.

I checked the ESR with a probe. The one in the photo (91 millivolts) corresponds, according to the conversion table for this probe, somewhere over 30 ohms. According to the tolerance table, it can be seen that a capacitance close to 50 μF x 16 V has a limit of 1.3 ohms.

The rest, except for two, have about the same. They are not suitable for further use. For two electrolytes with a permissible ESR value, the measured capacity corresponds to the ratings - you can leave it.

I installed the necessary serviceable electrolytic capacitors on the board and removed the variable resistor - the volume control, there was too much crackling in the speaker when it was rotating. I connected an ohmmeter to it and when it rotated I saw a real "leapfrog" on the display, it was in places the current-carrying path inside its case was erased. I put a serviceable identical variable resistor and assemble the amplifier board to its original position. Now check. The output is a suitable speaker, 9 V power from a laboratory PSU, and any Chinese mini receiver-scanner can be used as a sound source. The sound is clear and there is no noise when turning the knobs.

The HF-IF unit remains. He did not take it off, and there was no need. It had poorly proven electrolytic capacitors of the K50-12 brand, so the bodies of the components were simply bitten out with side cutters and their conclusions were left on the board, to which new serviceable capacitors were soldered. The power supply and sound amplifier are back in place. Once again, having checked the correctness of the soldering of the connecting wires, I connected the radio receiver to the network. Everything worked and, most importantly, it was better than it was. And may all your work end in success, Babay.

Is your TV, radio, mobile phone or kettle broken? And you want to create a new topic about this in this forum?

First of all, think about this: imagine that your father / son / brother has an appendicitis pain and you know from the symptoms that it is just appendicitis, but there is no experience of cutting it out, as well as the tool. And you turn on your computer, access the Internet on a medical site with the question: "Help to cut out appendicitis." Do you understand the absurdity of the whole situation? Even if they answer you, it is worth considering factors such as the patient's diabetes, allergies to anesthesia and other medical nuances. I think no one does this in real life and will risk trusting the life of their loved ones with advice from the Internet.

The same is in the repair of radio equipment, although of course these are all the material benefits of modern civilization and in case of unsuccessful repairs, you can always buy a new LCD TV, cell phone, iPAD or computer. And for the repair of such equipment, at least it is necessary to have the appropriate measuring (oscilloscope, multimeter, generator, etc.) and soldering equipment (hairdryer, SMD-hot tweezers, etc.), a schematic diagram, not to mention the necessary knowledge and repair experience.

Let's consider the situation if you are a beginner / advanced radio amateur who solders all sorts of electronic gizmos and has some of the necessary tools. You create an appropriate thread on the repair forum with a short description of “patient symptoms”, ie. for example “Samsung LE40R81B TV does not turn on”. So what? Yes, there can be a lot of reasons for not switching on - from malfunctions in the power system, problems with the processor or flashing firmware in the EEPROM memory.
More advanced users can find the blackened element on the board and attach a photo to the post. However, keep in mind that you replace this radio element with the same one - it is not a fact that your equipment will work. As a rule, something caused the combustion of this element and it could “pull” a couple of other elements along with it, not to mention the fact that it is quite difficult for a non-professional to find a burned-out m / s.Plus, in modern equipment, SMD radio elements are almost universally used, soldering which with an ESPN-40 soldering iron or a Chinese 60-Watt soldering iron you risk overheating the board, peeling tracks, etc. The subsequent restoration of which will be very, very problematic.

The purpose of this post is not any PR of repair shops, but I want to convey to you that sometimes self-repair can be more expensive than taking it to a professional workshop. Although, of course, this is your money and what is better or more risky is up to you.

If you nevertheless decide that you are able to independently repair the radio equipment, then when creating a post, be sure to indicate the full name of the device, modification, year of manufacture, country of origin and other detailed information. If there is a diagram, then attach it to the post or give a link to the source. Write down how long the symptoms have been manifesting, whether there were surges in the supply voltage network, whether there was a repair before that, what was done, what was checked, voltage measurements, oscillograms, etc. From a photo of a motherboard, as a rule, there is little sense, from a photo of a motherboard taken on a mobile phone there is no sense at all. Telepaths live in other forums.
Before creating a post, be sure to use the search on the forum and on the Internet. Read the relevant topics in the subsections, perhaps your problem is typical and has already been discussed. Be sure to read the article Repair strategy

The format of your post should be as follows:

Topics with the title “Help fix the Sony TV” with the content “broken” and a couple of blurred photos of the unscrewed back cover, taken with the 7th iPhone, at night, with a resolution of 8000x6000 pixels are immediately deleted. The more information about the breakdown you put in a post, the more chances you will get a competent answer. Understand that the forum is a system of gratuitous mutual assistance in solving problems and if you are dismissive of writing your post and do not follow the above tips, then the answers to it will be appropriate, if anyone wants to answer at all. Also note that no one should answer instantly or within a day, say, no need to write after 2 hours “That no one can help”, etc. In this case, the topic will be deleted immediately.
You should make every effort to find a breakdown on your own before you get stuck and decide to go to the forum. If you outline the whole process of finding a breakdown in your topic, then the chance of getting help from a highly qualified specialist will be very great.

If you decide to take your broken equipment to the nearest workshop, but do not know where, then perhaps our online cartographic service will help you: workshops on the map (on the left, press all buttons except “Workshops”). You can leave and view user reviews for workshops.

For repairmen and workshops: you can add your services to the map. Find your object on the map from the satellite and click on it with the left mouse button. In the field “Object type:” do not forget to change to “Equipment repair”. Adding is absolutely free! All objects are checked and moderated. A discussion of the service is here.

Some time ago I got my hands on a rather shabby, but still sometimes properly working receiver OCEAN 209. Judging by the state, the receiver flew from the table to the floor as much as a highly qualified pilot did.

The thing is, in principle, not bad - 5 HF channels, there are SV and LW, and, most valuable, VHF. In addition, the receiver has an AFC system - automatic frequency control. But, stop chatting about what is and what is not, let's get down to the analysis.

As one pretty good radio technician said: “I disassemble any device with three tools: a screwdriver, a sledgehammer and a crowbar. Only without further assembly ... ". We only need the first one (hide the rest away so as not to destroy the device in a fit of rage).

So, unscrew 4 screws from the back and remove the cover.

Next, we need to unhook the range knob. It rests on two stiletto heels.We unscrew the studs and pull out the handle with a sharp movement. Now we freely remove the wooden case. Only the front side remains.

We remove the control knobs (if they are still there). Unscrew the 4 aluminum ties and the screw, which is the antenna input terminal with the antenna. Next, carefully release the front cover.

It remains only to unscrew the speaker, and that's it.

Then you can go to the very essence: what we want from him. For example, I originally wanted to do 5 things: replace the speaker, turn the amplifier up to 10 W, improve the backlight, remake VHF1 to VHF2 and bring it a little bit into a divine form.

Of course, the amplifier later left the original one, but replaced all the variable resistors.

To get started, stock up on literature: magazine "Radio" for 1977, No. 10, page 36. There is a description and diagram of the receiver.

There are 2 VHF bands - VHF1 and VHF2, respectively. Most modern radio stations are on VHF2 (FM) - 88-108 MHz. Rebuilding the VHF unit to FM is not an easy task. But, the Internet is full of descriptions of how this can be done, and therefore I will not retell what is already on other sites. Just type in a search engine a query like "VHF on FM in Ocean 209" and as a result, a bunch of information will come out with how it is all done. Basically, this is the removal of excess containers, replacing some with other denominations and adjusting the contours by twisting the cores. One of the cores is replaced with a ferrite one (for reference: they are all brass there). The range adjustment is carried out by the L 4 circuit, the sensitivity adjustment by the L 3 circuit, and the input adjustment by the L 1 and L 2 circuits (if I am not mistaken, they are wound on one frame).

I strongly advise you to follow this link: Rebuilding the Ocean on FM. There is a complete and accurate description of actions on the VHF unit.

And further. When I was disassembling and reworking the VHF unit, I noticed that the structural unit may differ from what is drawn in the diagram.

By the way, while you haven't figured out anything yet, I want to give advice: the tuning system for a certain radio station is old (that is, with threads). So that later there will be no problems - it is better to fix it on the rollers with adhesive tape or adhesive tape.

The backlight can be made with LED. It is brighter and consumes less, but do not overdo it - the excessive load on the transformer did not bring anyone to good.

A positive voltage is applied to the common wire (chassis). Be careful.

I did not change the acoustics. I changed the old variable resistors for new ones - this will increase the service life of the radio receiver (in short, I will not look there soon).

Now the speaker of the device. We remove and carefully examine it. If the speaker cone is torn, it is advisable to replace it with a new one - any suitable in size, with a power of 1-2 W, with a resistance of 8 ohms. It can be supplied with a resistance of 4 ohms, but perhaps the output stages will warm up in a terrible way, which over time can lead to the failure of the transistors of the output stage.

I was not lucky. The previous owners of the receiver managed to turn the speaker off. I don't know how it still works, but you still have to change the speaker.

If the speaker magnet does not quite fit into the case and touches any parts, then it is better to completely cover it with an insulating material.

If the built-in amplifier does not suit you, then I advise you to build on such microcircuits that have inverted input and output (for example: TEA 2025 b, TDA 2822, etc.) and the power supply does not exceed 9 V.

Do not forget! The common wire has a polarity not minus, but vice versa! Make no mistake when designing!

Appearance is the most interesting thing.

The most interesting thing is, as always, at the end. (Oh, and the article will be over soon ...).

The appearance of the receiver is an individual thing. Of course, you can insert it into a case made of modern materials, but still it will not be what you need. Therefore, I left the old case - just as it should, washed it off all dirt, restored the front grill (the speaker suffered from the fork in the course of the case), screwed all the control knobs into place.

By the way, about the pens.A fairly large assortment of control knobs is sold in radio component stores, so this shouldn't be a problem.

It is advisable to cover the wooden part with two layers of special varnish.

This article is not intended to teach the repair of this receiver, it is aimed at encouraging the repair and restoration of Soviet technology and just directs where necessary. If you still have problems - write to your profile or leave comments here on the site.

And here is an article on repairing a stylish Soviet Hi-Fi amplifier "Radio Engineering U-101 stereo"!

Today I am starting a series of articles "Legends do not die", in which I will try to tell a little about the amazing and interesting things to which the prefix "retro" is usually added these days.

Old man ..., this magic word that caresses the ears of every connoisseur of good things, irrepressibly excites my imagination for the last couple of years. In search of interesting new products, I patrol the city markets and second-hand shops every weekend. About a month ago, a radio "Ocean - 214" got into my networks, which I mentioned in passing in my blog.

This solid apparatus of the end of the last century undoubtedly aroused the envy of ordinary mortals, since it had not only a wooden design, but also an appropriate price.

The monthly salary of an ordinary engineer is a solid jackpot for a small receiver.

And although I got this unit for a much smaller amount (in terms of today's prices), its condition left much to be desired.

Plus, after five hours, he stopped playing altogether.

Having become a little sad, I gathered my will into a fist and set to work, deciding at all costs to bring the pensioner to mind.

Restoration and repair of the radio receiver Ocean - 214

To begin with, I started disassembling.

This process is not very time consuming, but very interesting.

Good sound quality with just one paper cone speaker

While dismantling, I came across an interesting feature - the receiver either works or does not work. Most likely, bad contact has formed somewhere. The search began with the radio frequency unit,

to the extent that it was during its rotation that interruptions in work were observed.

Then he began to inspect the range shift knob.

It was then that the dog rummaged - shortened the power wire of the right backlight lamp.

After soldering, the receiver came to life and did not turn off.

Having completed a successful renovation, I decided to concentrate on the restoration. The plastic parts of the receiver have been thoroughly washed and dried. To give them a factory shine, I decided to use a colorless shoe polish.

The result was quite satisfactory for me - the details got rid of whitish stains.

The wooden body has been varnished in one layer.

Under no circumstances should the inner surface of the case be lapped, otherwise the receiver will lose all its sound properties.

The metal parts of the body have been thoroughly treated with a soapy old toothbrush.

The clear plastic windows were gently wiped with a soft monitor cloth.

On the threaded antenna tip,

clocked up a new limit switch presented to me by Mitrofanych from the radio market.

As a result of the assembly, the device acquired a solid look,

and pleased the household with such a good sound that my favorite JVC EX-A1 respectfully asked permission to be photographed with the star.

Read also: DIY sea repair

I want to put the FM module, I have decided on the power supply, I will twist two wires to the channels together, tell me if it's not difficult to connect two points according to your scheme, I think this will be the input to the amplifier, thanks!

my bass amplifier wheezes.

Some transistor is not biased and (maybe poor power supply).

There was the same problem, there is no sound. The speaker was killed, it was damp, the legs of the MP-40 transistor in unch were rotted (it looks like the former owner's batteries were leaking) .. Receiver 77 years old (exactly like yours, white grill, red scale white and yellow). Repaired, works. Completely on germanium transistors.

Before repairing, I immediately changed all the electrolytes and cleaned the oxides on the drum contacts. Only after that I turned on the power, one receiver immediately started working, in the other a transistor in the low frequency range was broken due to a broken / dried capacitor.

throw it away. buy a satellite kit. EU2AC

No, I'm not interested in radio communication as such. My hobby is radio surveillance and construction.

+ Sergey Nikolaev then go to the radio club and get the callsign.
This will be a new life. or go to the Security Council there and we'll talk. EU2AC

I don't want a prefix, I want to get rid of it. I have a homemade 0.1-45 MHz receiver with a frequency synthesizer, with a bunch of filters in the preselector, with two conversions and a signal processor for the second IF. I can say that nothing else is needed for reception on DV-SV-KV with any type of modulation.

+ Sergey Nikolaev, I have no thanks. Yes, he is big. But this is an apparatus. There is a transmission attachment to him. it's a rocket. EU2AC

250 I can give you, but only by self-pickup :)))

A very interesting video, I just decided to restore my old Vef 202, but when turned on, I hear clicks and silence and the battery is heating up, I'm just looking for the circuit where there may be a short circuit, the polarity is correct. ATP for such videos

Alexey Hello, leave your mail have questions about Ocean 209

Sergey Grits has questions about Ocean209

Hello Aleksey. I have approximately a similar situation, the only difference is that on VHF it catches one station on the others hissing and the ULF works at 4% of the maximum power or even less. within the norm, sort of like. I have a circuit for it, well, and a table of voltages too. It is embarrassing that there is a 20 percent error according to the table. If based on the norm, then on the emitter or collector the maximum or minimum voltage (within the permissible limits according to the table). I have not changed the capacitors yet. electrolytes. In practice, it is worth changing them all or selectively. Two KV channels do not show signs of life.

Dmitry Smolny is not present in your region. but I still have, don’t lie.

Everything is there to check. I'll start with the capacitors further down the line.As far as I understand, there is no VHF as a transmitting wave on radio stations, now FM? Now the frequencies also need to be changed (corrected). I understand correctly?

Hello Dmitry. Electrolytic capacitors almost always dry out, they must be measured with an ESR meter ali.ski/j7vc0_ The amplifier is best checked with a generator ali.ski/3hFnuf To check the HF, you will also need an ali.ski/iiydV oscilloscope.

Hi Aleksey ! I liked the video and get a like. I want to add, so as not to fool your head with the UKVFM, just buy an FM converter and connect it to the VHF unit through a small-sized power switch and no problems, if you want to listen to VHF, but if you want FM. Cheap and angry. I wish you and all radio amateurs good luck.

Viktor Samoelov and even better, through a transmitter on VHF 64-74 MHz, broadcast FM stations from the phone.

Phonit! Have you changed 1 capacitor? With ESR measurement? Unique. But they did not try to change everything, there are no good ones.

hello if you can send the circuit to the ocean 214 uhv rebuild fm my address is almost

"Red flags" sometimes flow like that, it happens that the ugly GT322 freak out.

If you have a frequency generator, check the ULF, Frequency demodulator, amplitude detector, but most likely it is UHF or UHF. Also check the power supply with an oscilloscope for noise.

my bass amplifier wheezes.

Some transistor is not biased and (maybe poor power supply).

throw it away. buy a satellite kit. EU2AC

No, I'm not interested in radio communication as such. My hobby is radio surveillance and construction.

+ Sergey Nikolaev then go to the radio club and get the callsign.
This will be a new life. or go to the Security Council there and we'll talk. EU2AC

+ Sergey Nikolaev, I have no thanks. Yes, he is big. But this is an apparatus. There is a transmission attachment to him. it's a rocket. EU2AC

250 I can give you, but only by self-pickup :)))

Alexey Hello, leave your mail have questions about Ocean 209

Sergey Grits has questions about Ocean209

Dmitry Smolny is not present in your region. but I still have, don’t lie.

Viktor Samoelov and even better, through a transmitter on VHF 64-74 MHz, broadcast FM stations from the phone.

Scheme and photo yadi.sk/d/2be5q-223Eze3Q

Phonit! Have you changed 1 capacitor? With ESR measurement? Unique. But they did not try to change everything, there are no good ones.

hello if you can send the circuit to the ocean 214 uhv rebuild fm my address is almost

I haven't opened my Ocean yet. But he is a worker, which surprised me a lot. After the idle time, when I turned it on, I thought, “Well, now it will explode!”. The receiver surprised me with its sound. The truth was, well, it was very noisy, the speech was heard very clearly, but the general perception was not very good. Vanga is not here, but can you tell me at least about what to sin? Maybe ULF, if the noise is the same in all ranges? What else should be replaced to improve perception?

"Red flags" sometimes flow like that, it happens that the ugly GT322 freak out.

If you have a frequency generator, check the ULF, Frequency demodulator, amplitude detector, but most likely it is UHF or UHF. Also check the power supply with an oscilloscope for noise.