DIY radio helicopter repair

An acquaintance recently brought a radio-controlled helicopter for repairs. The problem was that when the switch was turned on, the helicopter would not turn on. After a short inspection, it became clear that the problem was in the battery.

But to my surprise, the battery was hidden under the case - in such devices, it is usually attached from the bottom.
The helicopter, according to a friend, was purchased 3 years ago for $ 300 and worked perfectly. But a few months ago, the control panel was lost, since then the helicopter has not turned on. The remote control itself was found again, and the helicopter became unusable.

Such a device is powered by a built-in lithium-ion battery - only one bank with a voltage of 3.7 volts. The battery capacity is 1500 mA. My suspicions turned out to be in vain - the battery is completely out of order. The charging process did not go, it seems that the battery is not connected to the charging at all. Even after 6 hours of charging, the battery still has zero voltage. After several attempts at recovery, it became clear that the battery was not recoverable. A completely new battery from a SAMSUNG mobile phone (I don't remember exactly the model), with a capacity of 1100 mAh, was at hand. The battery was put on charge and then installed on the helicopter.

After several attempts, the helicopter was lifted into the air. It is interesting that the current consumption of this beast during the flight is as much as 2 Amperes - so the battery heats up during operation. After replacing the battery, the balance was disturbed and the helicopter flew unevenly, but that jamb was later corrected with the help of small weights that were installed in the front of the helicopter. The imbalance was caused by the fact that the old battery was twice as heavy as the new one.

The propellers themselves are made of impact-resistant plastic, so they won't break even with hard drops. The frame is lightweight and durable titanium, weight without battery is only 300 grams.
For the control rotor (on the tail), a low-power engine without a gear is installed, for the main propellers (rotate oppositely), two high-speed aircraft engines are used. The gears are machined from metal, which ensures their long service life.
The package contains a special charger that provides a current of up to 700mA, which allows you to charge a completely dead battery in two hours.

The helicopter can be controlled within a radius of 300 meters, for landing there is a separate mode that disables the lower propeller and reduces the speed of the upper one, thus a smooth landing is carried out.
The helicopter is controlled by a small propeller located on the tail.

This helicopter is interesting in that it can move forward and backward, and can also make sharp turns to the left and right. This became possible due to the fact that the main screws can deviate from the main axis of rotation with the appropriate command from the control panel.
The brain is a receiver with a built-in gyroscope. There is also an altitude adjustment function that allows the helicopter to hover in the air without any commands. In short, if the remote control falls out of the operator's hands, the built-in gyroscope will automatically adjust the propellers, balance the mass, and the helicopter will hang in the air until the battery is discharged. When the battery is discharged, the helicopter will descend smoothly.
It is precisely thanks to the specified functions that the helicopter is so expensive, it is a pleasure to play with it - if you come across such a helicopter, then spare no money, it will still have time to give you a lot of pleasure and thrills.

Now on sale we see a huge variety of battery-operated, radio-controlled helicopters. Various sizes, from small 15 cm long to relatively large, reaching 60-80 cm in length. With classical and coaxial execution schemes. But be that as it may, in order to rise into the air and make a flight, you must have a power plant. So, as a power plant, all these helicopter models include electric motors. Basically, models are made with two or three motors. As a rule, one of them stands in the tail section and drives the control keel screw. This is the smallest helicopter motor. With the classical design (one rotor), the axis of this motor is located horizontally, and with the coaxial (two main rotor), the axis is vertical, although there are deviations in this design.

How annoying it can be when your favorite toy breaks down and ceases to please with its turns. One of the common breakdowns in which one of the helicopter's propellers does not rotate is the failure of the electric motor, which drives this propeller into rotational motion. In this article I will tell you how you can easily repair an electric motor and return your friend to the air.

The main breakdowns of such engines include breakage or burnout of the rotor winding (armature) and failure of the brush assembly located on the housing cover. In the first case, if the anchor breaks, we cannot do anything, because rewinding such a tiny reel will not work without special equipment. But if the brushes are burnt and destroyed, resuscitation can be carried out, after which the engine will come to life and, most importantly, it will become maintainable.

So, my tail motor stopped rotating on the Syma F3 turntable. Moreover, if you help him make a turn, then he can start and work for a while or stop right there. Lacking power on its shaft, its work became ineffective. There is only one conclusion: replacement or repair. Finding spare parts now, in principle, is not a problem. Internet for help, ordered and received a month later. But I decided to try to repair it anyway. The helicopter belongs to the small class, so the size of the engine itself is already scary.

We start by removing the engine from the helicopter. Each model has its own fastening methods, therefore, in order not to break anything, carefully figure out how the holder works and only after that proceed to dismantling. If you are 100% sure of its malfunction, then the supply wires can be bitten off at the very cover of the case, leaving the supply ends longer. The blades can be removed both before and after dismantling. When you have a tiny motor 15 mm in length and 5 mm in diameter in your hands, the fun begins.

The question is how to disassemble this miracle of Chinese technology. In most cases, the body is monolithic-stamped with a plastic cover in the back from which the supply wires come out (which we have already managed to bite off). This cover is fixed to the body with rolled tacks at four points. All my attempts to bend these potholders were unsuccessful, since the metal turned out to be quite elastic, and I decided to open this place by any means, saying to myself: "There is no turning back anyway." After several movements with a scalpel, the lid still opened, or rather fell off. As I expected, metal brushes were attached to the lid, which completely worn out and crumbled during operation. I was lucky that the fragments of the brushes that fell off inside the body did not damage the armature winding.

In the photos, the engine is already disassembled. The stator magnet in Chinese motors is not located above the rotor, as in traditional versions, but inside the rotor, i.e. the winding spins over the stator magnet. This achieves such a tiny size.

ATTENTION! After removing the back cover, do not in any case rush to get the anchor out of the case! You will immediately damage the winding on the folds that held the lid. You need to carefully bend them flush with the body. I do this with the usual small side cutters. Just do not bend the body, it will not be possible to align it back.

After these simple operations, you can carefully remove the anchor and blow it with compressed air or process it with a soft brush, for example, for painting, without exerting effort. There should be no foreign debris inside the case, so we also carefully inspect and blow it through. After cleaning from the remnants of the brushes, insert, CAREFULLY , return the rotor to the stator, or in other words, the armature into the housing and put the semi-disassembled motor aside.

Now we have to make a new cover and install the collector brushes on it. To do this, we need a foil-clad fiberglass, and from tools a sharp knife or a medical scalpel, a needle, a ruler, a 0.4-0.5 mm drill, a micro drill into which you can insert this drill, a soldering iron, tweezers, a flat file and superglue. If a soldering iron is specified, then naturally solder and flux, i.e. rosin.

The profile of the future cover is shown in the figure, dimensions are in mm. For other engines, the dimensions will also be different, but the meaning remains the same. Our task is to make two circles with different diameters, then glue them, drill two holes, solder brushes into these holes and finally assemble the motor.

So let's get started. We take a small piece of fiberglass (its thickness is usually in the range from 1 to 1.7 mm) and divide it approximately in half with a scalpel. It lends itself easily to delamination, but be extremely careful not to injure your hands.

Photo of the exfoliated PCB.

Then we draw on one and the second part of a circle with a diameter equal to the diameter of the engine or slightly more. I used an officer's ruler for this purpose, which has such hole patterns.

Any pattern with a suitable circle can be used. It is better to draw with a needle, it will leave an indelible mark. With scissors, with a small margin, we cut out the resulting blanks and begin to process them with a flat file to the desired diameter. The workpiece, which, without copper foil, should turn out to be slightly smaller in diameter than that with the foil, and should effortlessly enter the engine housing, but not fall through freely. The one with the foil, respectively, should be slightly larger in diameter and should lie on the edges of the case. When we glue these two spots together, it should look like a hat.

If everything is turned and fitted in accordance with the recommendations, you can glue these patches together with superglue and, after drying, check how finished, the new cover looks in its new place.

Now you can drill two diametrically opposite holes and make a slot on the side of the foil, so that you get two contact pads, to which the conductors are subsequently soldered.

You can cut through the foil with a sharp knife or screwdriver, but I use a broken hacksaw blade. It makes a good cutter.

Our case cover is ready for tinning the pads and soldering in improvised brushes.

Special attention should be paid to the manufacture of collector brushes. When choosing a material, you need to take into account the elasticity of the metal and its hardness. From practice, I can say that I had to make brushes from ordinary copper wire (two or three veins of a cleaned mounting wire), from the blade of a disposable razor, from a thin steel spring. Copper wire is an excellent material, it is in good contact with the collector lamellas, but it does not spring well and, when worn, stops touching the collector. A razor blade is more suitable for larger engines and requires an abrasive tool on the edges. Otherwise, due to the hardness of the metal, the wear of the collector will be more intense than the brushes, and this cannot be repaired, at least for tiny engines.The best result was shown by a loose spring from a disposable lighter, but here there is a difficulty in tinning it. Tinning with ordinary rosin will not work, you need an acid flux. The blade, by the way, is also tinned with acid fluxes.

I would like to draw your attention to one more point that arises when choosing a material. The hard materials from which the springs are made, including the blade of the machine, are ferromagnets, therefore, their particles will be magnetized to the stator magnet and, with a large accumulation, can damage the rotor winding. Therefore, every time when replacing brushes, carefully blow the body with compressed air or use copper, brass. Perhaps someone else has thoughts on the choice of material for collector brushes, please share in the comments.

Well, if you have decided on the material, you can start shaping the future contact brushes. Further, it will be difficult to explain in words what and where to bend, so take a close look at the photos and you will understand how this is done. In this case, the brushes are made from a disposable razor blade.

The finished brushes are inserted into the drilled holes and carefully soldered. We got a cover - a brush holder. Now finally adjust the gap between the brushes by bending. It should be about half the size of the armature collector. If the material is too elastic, then the gap can be increased, thereby weakening the pressing force of the brushes to the collector and vice versa.

The final part remains. We extend the armature from the engine body so that the manifold is visible, and insert it into the gap between the brushes. Then we carefully immerse this structure into the body and make sure that the armature collector remains in the gap between the brushes.

Almost everything is ready. It remains to glue the circular joint between our new lid and the body with glue. There is no large load in this part, so you should not fill everything tightly with glue. Then it will be more difficult to pick out if you have to experiment again. I recommend using the moment classic glue, it is more elastic than super glue and has good adhesion to metal. The super glue gel showed good gluing results, but when replacing the brushes next time, it will be more difficult to “tear off” the lid from the body.

Our engine is ready. If there is an external power supply, you can check its operation before installation. If this is not possible, install the motor on the helicopter in the reverse order of removal. We solder the bitten off wires to the contact pads. If they are short, then add the length with another wire. IT IS WORTH NOTING that soldering to the pads must be done in a short period of time and using a heat-dissipating object, otherwise the general soldering can be too warm and the brushes will move. Everything is ready, you can carry out tests. When turned on, the motor may rotate in the wrong direction - this is solved by soldering the poles, i.e. we swap the current-carrying wires.

Good luck to all! If you have any questions, comments or suggestions for writing an article, please write in the comments or in a personal.

You have purchased a radio-controlled toy helicopter with a gyroscope GYRO (GYRO) - but it does not fly, does not move, does not even blink its bulbs, in general, with all its appearance, it demonstrates a complete unwillingness to work and bring joy to you and your children. Yes, let's face it, this is rare, but it happens. There is no need to despair, even a newly born baby should be gently slapped on the bottom in order to get a joyful cry from him. Let's help our toy helicopter experience the beauty of flight. Let's slap him on the ass (kidding).

The table contains typical situations in which a toy radio-controlled helicopter at first did not work “like a dead one,” and then began to work.

synchronize (dock) the control panel and the helicopter as follows:

We really hope that our recommendations will help your radio-controlled helicopter to fly into the sky and please you with its controlled flight.Unfortunately, a radio-controlled helicopter, like other toys, quite often stops its flights due to all kinds of malfunctions, the main of which are the depletion of the battery life (and replacing the battery in toy helicopters is not a task for a novice radio installer) and cumulative mechanical damage due to falls.
Radio-controlled helicopters are fragile toys, they are not inherited from an older child to a younger child. After some playing time, you have to make a decision to buy either a new toy radio-controlled helicopter (possibly a more advanced and functional one) or a completely different toy.

If you make such a decision, the online store "Modern Toys" is happy to provide

for the entire range of toys presented. Discount Coupon Code - Helicopter

Enter the coupon code when placing an order and its value will be recalculated taking into account the discount.

I have SPL 107 on IR control. The rear rotor has stopped rotating. Is there any way to cure it?

Mumrik replied:
March 18th, 2013 - 0:57

Ring the motor. It is very economical, and should turn a little when in contact with the tester. If it turns, it means that the power transistor on the board has burned out. This is a rather miniature soldering, I don't know if you can replace it. If it doesn't spin, then the motor itself is dead. The most worn-out place in it is the brushes. They are made of thin tin, they constantly experience friction and sparks, so they most likely should burn off. I managed to make these brushes myself, but this is a piece of jewelry. You can do it if you have good eyesight, perseverance and neat hands.

By the way, to the author. Can you tell me if it is possible to buy such a battery somewhere when this one gets old?

Hello. I have a model of a Phoenix helicopter (I don’t know the exact name), like in the photo:
The point is this: the top rotor does not rotate on my helicopter. I tried to remove it - it turned out that the gear responsible for it (well, the one below) rotates, but slower than the gear from the lower screw. Disassembled the helicopter, a red light is on on its microcircuit: https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/1855/s9Coj0l.jpg, https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ ext / 1855 / 5QzErLx.jpg. I don't know if that means anything or not. Please, tell me what to do!

Mumrik replied:
July 18th, 2013 - 20:20

“Nothing lasts forever under the moon,” as N. M. Karamzin wrote in his poems, and even more so radio-controlled models of helicopters. All fans of flying sooner or later face the need for repairs. In this article we will try to give some advice on the repair and diagnostics of a radio-controlled helicopter (hereinafter referred to as a helicopter) from SYMA S107 and similar ones. In general, we will talk about the repair of a three-channel coaxial radio-controlled helicopter.

What should be the first thing to pay attention to if the helicopter does not take off?

Let's not rush and see if everything was done according to the instructions, that is:

1. The remote control is turned on and the power indicator is on. By the way, sometimes when using alkaline low-power batteries, the power indicator may light up, but there is not enough power for a confident and sufficient signal. We recommend using batteries with the Alkaline mark.
2. The accumulator battery (accumulator battery) is charged, the power indicator in the helicopter is flashing.
3. No direct bright light source (high-power lighting, or bright sunlight)

If everything is in order and "signs of life" did not appear, then you will have to get Phillips screwdriver 2.0x 55mm and thin tip soldering iron.

So, the helicopter turns on, but the upper (lower) blades rotate at a slower speed than the lower (upper) blades, or do not rotate at all.

This fault indicates a faulty drive system.

The first step is to check the pinyon on the motors (a small gear on the motor shaft).
It is also worth checking the condition of the pinyon itself, because in some cases the gear teeth are worn out and replacement is required.
It is quite simple to diagnose a helicopter for engine serviceability, for this it is enough to add gas and see if the blades of the upper and lower rotor rotate at the same speed. We look at which engine is responsible for the drive of the system whose blades rotate at a lower speed (or do not rotate at all) and change the engine. To do this, you really need to disassemble the helicopter.

If the blades of the upper and lower rotor rotate at the same speed, but the helicopter does not take off, then the battery may be the cause. On average, the built-in Li-Po battery holds 80-100 charge / discharge cycles and over time, the resource decreases. For replacement, I recommend disassembling the helicopter according to the instructions above.

ATTENTION! Beware of shorting + (red wire) to - (black wire), or + to ground (let's say the helicopter body)

Do not rush to the store for a new battery. The fact is that during long-term storage in a discharged state, or at full discharge (for example, they forgot to turn off the helicopter and left it for a long time), the power of the charger, whether it be a remote control or a USB adapter, is not enough to start. In this case, you can try to restore the battery by applying an increased voltage from a DC source to the corresponding contacts, approximately 4v-4.1v

Wait 30 seconds and charge the battery with a standard charger.

If the helicopter turns on, the blades rotate at the required speed, but during takeoff, the helicopter skids to the side or swings in a circle.

In this case, it is worth paying attention to the upper part of the coaxial system of your helicopter .. Often mechanical damage occurs during impacts and falls, which are the reason for this behavior.
We unscrew the 2 screws and simply tighten the entire top entirely.

Note the bridges that are required to transfer torque from the upper rotor shaft to the paddle carrier. If at least one of them is broken, the helicopter will swing from side to side. Different types of helicopter use different versions of this unit, but we will consider a restoration option for our model.

To do this, we need a mini drill with a thin drill (0.2 - 0.5 mm) or a thin needle, a Phillips screwdriver 2.0x 55mm, a blade (razor) and nippers.

1. We cut off the remnants of the jumpers, remove the excess.
   
2. Using a drill, we make a through hole. I strongly recommend to start with "punching" (marking) the center of the hole. If you don't have a mini drill, you can make a hole with a hot steel needle.
   
3. We unscrew 2 screws from your helicopter, preferably from those places where they do not play a special functional role. We screw in the screws a few turns, the protruding part should be approximately equal to the length of the jumpers.
   
4. We bite off the screw heads with pliers.
   
5. Putting it back together and enjoying the result

Good luck to everyone in repairing your helicopters and thank you for your attention.

This is a paid review of the already bored helicopter on the IR-control. Why paid? The helicopter itself was kindly and absolutely free of charge provided by the site in exchange for a review about it. What I'm actually doing now 🙂

I am very glad that as a child I did not have radio-controlled models of helicopters, boats, cars, otherwise, most likely, I would not have become an engineer. And so the only toy in the form of a broken railway made me stubbornly study special literature, such as: "Young Technician", "Modelist-Constructor", "Levsha", "Radio" and the like (who remembers those unforgettable days when a whole month you wait for the magazine "Young Technician", and here it comes; you grab it, rush to the attic, and there you read avidly, starting from the end, where the next radio circuit - he will understand me).After such a brainstorming, various kinds of water-powered rockets, four-story kites, cord models of rubber-powered fighters, cars from an empty spool of thread, a disc cut from a stearin candle, matches and hair ties were born, and the devil knows what unknown aggregates. Therefore, I offer my condolences to the modern teenagers who have the Internet and WoW. Most likely, an intelligent engineer will not work for you 🙂

Okay, I won't talk about sad things. One fine morning, an unknown Chinese comrade (may the Chinese God SAO prolong his days on earth 🙂) from the site offered to test some inexpensive piece of stuff for free instead of a review about it. Those who read the book by Vsevolod Nestayko "The Extraordinary Adventures of Robinson Kukuruso", of course, remember that all things are divided into three types - piece, piece, and piece. Who has not read - we urgently correct the omitted. That is why my clear gaze of the tester and the ripper of the insides immediately settled on the controlled model of the helicopter. In return for this very piece, an unknown gentleman demanded to write a review about it (piece, that is, then I did not know what I would unscrew this time, but such desires were already incipient). With which I of course immediately agreed.

Long or short, and the parcel was already in my post office. Such a hefty box, at first I thought that the wrong helicopter was sent. When I printed it out, I calmed down:

The set: the helicopter itself, screwed to the seat with two wires, a remote control, a spare tail rotor and a charging cord with a USB connector at the end. There were no chargers included.
The remote control is powered by 6 AA batteries, in the absence of these, I installed the same number of 1.2 Volt batteries. Started up with a half turn. Control - infrared (out of old habit I wrote "radio control", I still don't get used to the fact that telemetry is not measuring the size of a TV :)).

Helicopter. It has a 150 mA battery on board the LI-ION, which allows it to fly through the air like this for about 7-8 minutes. After that, he can no longer fly, but with a propeller he cheerfully turns to exhaustion, standing on the floor. Also, 5 LEDs are supplied with the helicopter - one, white, in front, which probably plays the role of a powerful illumination from the air of drug traffickers fleeing on the ground from any American film. The other 4 are two-color - red and blue - evenly halved and located on both sides of the helicopter. They play the role of moral suppression of the enemy, at least after 10 minutes of their continuous perky winking I was already in such a depressed state. In addition, each LED through a resistance of 300 ohms is powered directly from the storage battery, which in total gives an extra current consumption as much (3.7 / 300) * 5 = 0.062 A or 62 mA of excess consumption.

Go ahead. First I tried to launch the helicopter. After a short search, an ON-OFF switch was found on board. Turning on the board, turning on the remote control, waited 5-7 seconds, then pressed the "gas". The blades whirled, uryayayayayaya.

Remote controller. It sits comfortably in the hand, the control also does not arise any particular difficulties. Automatic transmission, on the left there is a two-position joystick - "gas / brake", on the right a four-position "forward / backward" and "left / right", and "left / right" is carried out by turning the helicopter around the axis of the blades. All the joysticks are spring-loaded, which is damn convenient - you just have to throw the gas, and the helicopter will not so briskly crash into the wall, however, more on that later. In the middle is a gyroscope regulator, more on that later.

At the first takeoff attempt, disappointment awaited me - one blade came off (for some reason the propeller burst) and flew away in the opposite direction from me. I had to borrow a screw from the skin.

Despite the fact that my pilot is mediocre, on the first charge of the battery I managed to fly around the room (well, how to fly, so quickly hit) for 3 minutes, and complete the mission of landing exactly in a pot with my wife's beloved violet.

After the battery charge was ordered to be charged, he armed himself with screwdrivers, tweezers and a scalpel and proceeded to dissect. The helicopter has a standard coaxial design - two propellers rotating in opposite directions on the same axis. Both propellers are driven by their own motor. In the tail "compartment" there is a third engine with horizontal blades, designed to move back and forth. There is even a flybar (flybar), where is without it, designed to change the angle of inclination of the blades and thereby level the helicopter. I read the principle on Google, but I still didn't understand it - there is a complex description with formulas, etc. Let's leave it to specialists.

We begin to disassemble. Printed circuit board with components. The large microcircuit was never identified - the marking on it was completely erased. Logically, we can assume that this is some kind of small microcontroller, because it needs to process commands from the control panel, issue signals for 3 motors and additionally process information from the gyroscope. Yes, you heard right - there is the most single-chip gyroscope on board - a small vertically standing scarf. Who would have thought - and this is all in a model under 15 bucks.

A gyroscope is a thing that tracks the position of a helicopter in space. Its presence on the model can be assessed very simply - take the helicopter by the skis, start the propeller, and without releasing it, start rotating it around the propeller axis clockwise or counterclockwise. In this case, the sound of the rotation of the propeller will change, and you can feel with your hand that the helicopter itself is resisting the turn - it is the gyroscope that has triggered and is trying to change the rotation speed of the lower pair of blades in order to return the helicopter to its previous position in space.

By the way, there is a regulator knob on the remote control ... I don’t know how to even say ... calibration, perhaps a gyroscope. It is necessary to raise the helicopter to the level of the second chakra from the floor, if it slowly rotates in one direction, this very handle can compensate for the rotation. Ideally, it should hang motionless and non-rotationally (:)) in one place.

When I got to the board, I did the following - I removed the front one-color and 2 side two-color LEDs. This made it possible to increase the flight time by 4 minutes. Somewhere there is a 200 mA lithium-ion battery from an ear bluetooth, it is almost the same in weight and size, after replacement I think the flight time can be extended to 20-30 minutes.

A little about charging. The set includes a rudder with a USB connector on one side, and a small two-pin "mom" on the other, plugged into a two-pin "dad" on board. You can charge it from the batteries in the remote control (there is a separate female connector sticking out of the remote control), from the USB port of a computer, or from a charger of any mobile phone with a USB socket. At the end of the charge, the cable connector starts glowing red from the inside, from which I conclude that the charge controller on the penny MCP73831 microcircuit is already built into the USB cable socket.

Collected everything back. As expected, two LEDs on the sides are enough for the lighting effect, the absence of the front white is not particularly noticeable, but it has already started flying for 15 minutes.

Now about flights. The helicopter is very inertial. He lifted it with the gas handle a meter from the floor. It hangs in the air, but sometimes it begins to rotate, as if it were suspended from a long rope. When you push the handle forward, it takes off. If you drop the handle, and I will remind you that it is spring-loaded and takes its neutral position, the helicopter continues to fly forward by inertia. At first, out of habit, I put it on the carpet on the wall a couple of times. Fortunately, the blades are folded, there were no casualties.

Well, that's it.The toy is undoubtedly interesting, but alas, it is no longer my age. Although his wife played with him for almost an hour.

Pros:
+ inexpensive.
+ while almost unkillable up the wall.
+ convenient remote control.
+ there is a gyroscope and a separate tail rotor, which is the prerogative of more expensive models.

- short battery life.
- annoying light indication.

I express my gratitude to comrade reether81 from the site who kindly provided the device for free testing. The further fate of the helicopter is already predetermined - since the Bible teaches us that “for nothing it came, for nothing and went away”, soon the helicopter will leave as a present for some kid from a low-income family. Let him fly, maybe he will become a pilot.

Shl note - I just noticed that the photos of the helicopter on the site differ from the ones that were sent to me. I ask you not to kick too much - what they sent me, I unscrewed it 🙂

A radio-controlled helicopter is a unique modern aircraft that both children and adults are fond of, who want to take their own leisure in an interesting way. Despite the use of a metal frame and special flight stabilization systems and even a shock-resistant case in their design, even in the hands of a specialist, a radio-controlled helicopter can fall or collide with an obstacle. As a result of such shaking or simple wear of internal components, breakdowns occur.

We note right away that independent intervention in the design of an aircraft leads in 90% of cases to new, more serious problems. This happens because a person without experience and knowledge violates the integrity inside, and does not fix the problem. Our specialist has at hand everything you need to diagnose and determine exactly what the problem is. This inspection takes only fifteen minutes, and for the user it costs nothing, so it is better not to take the initiative, but to save your own money.

• Replacement of components;
• Setting flight modes;
• Assembly;
• Replacement of the case;
• Repair and replacement of the motor, blades and other major components;
• Repair of the control panel;
• Replacement of blades, landing gear, flybar, etc.

We work with models of any complexity, be it professional radio-controlled aircraft or toys aged 10 years and older. the craftsmen have everything you need to carry out high-quality repairs and diagnostics. They always have at hand modern equipment, high-quality components and original spare parts.

The list of problems faced by users is very extensive, but the solution to each of them should fall on the shoulders of a specialist if you do not want to lose your toy forever. People come to us with the following breakdowns:

• The helicopter does not want to respond to commands from the remote control;
• LEDs on the case are not active;
• The rechargeable battery is charged, but does not accumulate charge;
• The device is in the air less than stated by the manufacturer;
• The control panel is not active;
• The helicopter is on, but there is no connection with the control panel;
• The toy cannot fly up to the required height.

Our specialists manage to eliminate most of the problems within a day, for example, to completely replace a damaged battery or electric motor, but there are also such breakdowns that you have to tinker with. One of the most difficult breakdowns is software, which can also fail. The board may simply burn out, then you need to repair the control panel or the antenna for receiving the signal on the helicopter. Despite the fact that most of the parts are in the warehouse of our repair service, it is not uncommon for the user to wait until the master repairs its breakdown with great care and brings the radio-controlled helicopter back to life. In some cases, we advise you to simply acquire patience.