DIY sink repair

In addition to our basic bath restoration service, we can offer you a very useful service “restoration of sinks with liquid acrylic”. This service will be useful to everyone who has a sink in a deplorable state, but for some reason, there is no opportunity (or desire) to replace it with a new one.
Please be careful, only iron or cast iron sinks can be restored with acrylic. Porcelain washstands, washbasins, washbasins are IMPOSSIBLE to restore for a long time. On these surfaces, neither acrylic nor enamel for baths will last longer than half a year. This is already proven, you better do not risk it.
Kitchen sinks are being restored only liquid acrylic, since according to this technology the coating layer is thicker and it withstands the impact of dishes and aggressive detergents for a longer time.

So that it’s boring not to explain what kind of sink turns out after restoration. How beautiful and snow-white she is, we posted a short photo session, how the kitchen sink is gradually enameled with liquid acrylic. All photos are clickable (this means that you can click on the photo with the mouse and it will enlarge), so feel free to consider the process.

Before painting the washbasin, it is necessary to check the mixer; it is important that water does not flow through it. Because the drops flowing over the not yet solidified liquid acrylic form grooves that do not look beautiful at all.

Photo one: In this form, the sink was provided to our master. The mixer is dried and checked for leaks. This mixer was ok.

Before enameling the kitchen sink with liquid acrylic, as we wrote above, it is necessary to dismantle the old drain siphon. In this case, the drain siphon was very old, and it would be problematic to put it back. All the rubber pads have shrunk on it. In order for the restoration to be performed correctly, it must be replaced with a new one.

This is how the new drain siphon looks like, it was dismantled before pouring. An old basin is installed under the hole so that excess liquid acrylic, during painting, flows into it and does not stain the floor.

Immediately before pouring it with liquid acrylic, the kitchen sink is pasted over with masking tape, the kitchen stove next to it is also pasted over, well, the door covering the trash can is sealed with paper so that the excess liquid acrylic does not drain from the furniture. In order for the owners to be automatic, they do not accidentally turn on the water before the acrylic dries in the sink, the masters seal the mixer with masking tape. Well, actually from this moment the restoration itself begins.

Well, here's the actual result. The old kitchen sink has turned white.

A washbasin refurbished with liquid acrylic can be used after 36 hours. Then you can remove the masking tape and reinstall the drain siphon. Unfortunately, there is no photo of this kitchen sink with the assembled drain siphon.

That's all, the surface is flat and smooth to the touch. Acrylic coating, durable enough and does not crack under the dishes. It also “holds up” the impacts and falls of pots and heavy objects (although it is better not to abuse it).

A faience sink for washing or a kitchen sink can be washed well, but it has one drawback - it can be easily broken by carelessness. The most vulnerable place is the bottom. From a blow with something heavy that has slipped out of your hands, at best, cracks will go, at worst - a hole will form. What do they do in this case? Of course, they buy a new one.The selection of sinks and the range of prices today is quite large, their approximate cost can be viewed, for example, here:

But what if there is no way to get a new sink? Suddenly, the store does not have a suitable model, or, even worse, the wallet simply does not allow it. In this case, you can handle the hole in the sink yourself.

So, first you need to make the so-called formwork. We apply good quality PVA glue with a brush along the perimeter of the knocked-out hole at the bottom of the shell with a width of 25.0-30.0 mm, and glue the ends formed during the battle of the shell with glue. Then we glue a wet, but well-squeezed piece of canvas from the old sheet, stretching it well along the sides of the knocked out hole. In a day, when the canvas is firmly glued to the bottom of the sink, we prepare a kind of paste from cement, chalk and glue. We take 1 part of high grade cement (preferably white), 1 part sifted, without lumps, chalk (the same applies to cement), mix everything well.

Stir the mixture to a working density with 1/9 part of a thick PVA glue, previously diluted with water 1: 2. If this is not enough to dilute the mixture to a working consistency, it is brought to this with water. The paste should be thick, but quite elastic. Using a stainless steel tablespoon, fill the void of the knocked out hole with this paste. Just in case, the canvas from below should be held.

With light pressure on the spoon, smooth the contents of the paste over the filled hole so that the paste is flush with the rest of the bottom of the sink. After a couple of hours, check the sealed hole for cracks. If they appear, this indicates that the solution has begun to set. We rub the cracks again with a spoon, after dipping it into water.

After grouting the cracks, apply a wet, slightly wrung-out burlap-type rag over the entire area of ​​the sealed hole. As it dries, we wet the rag again, avoiding the appearance of cracks. After a few days, when all the processes of setting and drying are over, you can paint over this place with paint or varnish of the desired color. You can use the sink after 5 days, but so that the water jet does not hit the sealed hole.

This method of repairing a sink is, of course, applicable to other earthenware products. For example, a toilet or a vase.

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Crack from falling heavy objects.

Unfortunately, you did not indicate whether you have a large crack formed on the sink, but I suppose that it is not large (for large ones, the sinks are usually replaced, since it is already difficult to save it with something, and the sinks are not very expensive). In the case of a small crack, I suggest you seal it up with an ordinary waterproof sealant, or with epoxy (only rinse and dry the sink beforehand), then it is best to sand it on top.

First of all, you need to decide and in this case we are talking most likely about a ceramic sink.

The crack might look something like this.

It should also be noted that this work will require a degreaser, for example acetone, the ceramic glue itself, and of course it must be waterproof.

So, for example, this is suitable.

This glue is generally referred to as ceramic putty.

Next, you need to thoroughly wash the sink and especially the crack.

Then degrease with acetone and dry well. Well, then a ceramic putty is applied and leveled with a spatula. Of course, after the putty gets stronger, you can clean it and polish it with sandpaper, as is done with body repair.

And if the crack is in a conspicuous place, then you can polish more thoroughly with automotive abrasives, which are specially used for polishing.

I believe that epoxy glue is most suitable for ceramics.

• not afraid of temperature changes - it will not lose its strength if the sink is filled, for example, with boiling water.
• in the solidified state, the epoxy has a certain elasticity and will not collapse with a linear change in the size of the shell due to changes in water temperature.
• if the glue gets inside the crack, then the joint will be so strong that upon impact, the crack will form in a different place.
• the glue is not aggressive, absolutely neutral and is not afraid of chemicals, acids and solvents (sometimes you have to pour various chemical unnecessary into the sink).

In order for the glue to get inside the crack and not run out, it must be sealed with tape or paintbrush from the back of the sink, and the diluted two-component glue must be heated in a water bath. When hot, it becomes very liquid, it must be applied to the crack and wait until it penetrates inside (you can stir it with a wooden stick or a match). Remove excess wet with a rag.

In hot glue, the “survivability” time is reduced several times, so it is impossible to hesitate.

If the excess did not have time to be removed with a rag, and the glue began to set, remove it with a prepared blade from a painting knife (it can be easily bent and pressed against the plane of the sink).

If the crack is wide, or there are chips, then you can use a transparent epoxy tile grout ("chameleon", "crystal").

As a result, the hardened grout will acquire the color of the shell itself and the gap will be practically invisible.

You have not specified what material the sink is of, so there are several options to consider:

1) Enamel sink - from my personal experience, I can unequivocally say that you will never close a crack so that it is not visible, there is only an option - to seal it from a leak. So, in any case, do not expand the crack, as they write on the Internet, since after its expansion, no matter what you repair the crack, after a while it reappears. You can only eliminate the leak from this crack, for this buy epoxy enamel and simply apply several layers of paint into the previously expanded crack and treated with a degreaser, each time scraping off the excess with a plastic or wooden scraper. especially if, as you write, that the crack was formed from the impact of a heavy object, then there must be chips, which must also be filled with enamel. From time to time, and this is from 3 to 6 months, you will have to renew the enamel layer, as it exfoliates, at least for me.

2) Metal sink with enamel coating - There is nothing to worry about, if the view does not bother you, then the crack can not be repaired, only the enamel on the metal cracked, and the main material remained normal. The crack can also be covered with epoxy enamel, but due to the fact that the crack is thin, the paint will not be able to completely fill it and the crack will appear.

3) Ceramics or porcelain - here you have to forget about beauty altogether, since a crack, namely the visible part, cannot be repaired. But still, take the sealant in the color of the sink and coat the crack on the outside. From the inside, I would advise you to put a patch, if the sealant with the sink has good adhesion, then from the inside, apply a layer of sealant along the crack and around it and glue a special gauze to the sealant, which is used to repair the car bodywork, after the sealant has hardened, apply a second layer.

4) Artificial stone - here epoxy glue will help you, probably the most effective material capable of repairing a crack on an artificial stone, but this must be done carefully, namely:

• Drill the edges of the crack with a 2 mm drill
• From the inside, open a crack 2-3 millimeters deep, you can make a chamfer at an angle
• Degrease the surface
• Apply epoxy flush to the base surface both outside and inside
• For more confidence, place the patch on the inside as described above

If the crack is large, and it is not possible to repair it, but there is no money for a new sink, then you can simply order an insert and insert it into the sink. The result of the repair with the liner is something like this:

It is not always possible to purchase a new ceramic sink for a bathroom or kitchen when there is a problem with the existing one.

If the process is irreversible and the breakdown is serious, then only the replacement option remains. But there are times when minor defects arise that can be eliminated by repair.

Consider the information on how to repair a chip on a ceramic sink so that there are no visible marks left.

There is an opportunity to independently repair the chip on the sink using specialized sealants or putties. For a reliable result, you should perform the following actions:

• clean the damaged surface;
• dry the repair site;
• dilute the ceramic filler in accordance with the instructions on the package;
• apply a bonding material (putty) to the place of the chip so that it protrudes beyond the edges (the putty will dry out);
• let the putty dry;
• clean with fine-grained sandpaper until smooth and even;
• paint over the seam with the appropriate color, and remove excess paint from the surface with acetone.

Ceramics tend to crack, impacts are especially dangerous for it, or such a process occurs over time. That's when the question arises of how to seal the crack in the ceramic sink and give it a neat look.

Specially designed sealants that are water resistant are often used for such work. You should purchase a good quality composition suitable for a ceramic sink in the store and just cover up the cracks with it.

Naturally, you should first clean the place of repair from rust, mold and grease, dry it. Now you know exactly how to patch up the crack and you can safely go to the store for materials.

Very often, ceramic sinks are made without a special tap hole. This is because most modern taps are wall-mounted near the sink.

But there are situations when the faucet needs to be built into the side of a ceramic sink, then it is advisable to watch a video on how to drill a sink.

But when it is not possible to see the whole process on the screen, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with the written version of how to drill a hole in a ceramic sink yourself.

The first step is to decide how to drill a ceramic sink, the answer is simple - with a drill. This is done not with an ordinary drill, but with a special nozzle for ceramic products.

A diamond-core bit is suitable for such a case, which will allow you to drill without adding water and cooling the drill itself.

Sales consultants in the store will help you choose the correct crown. If everything is done correctly, then the problem will be solved.
than to drill or seal the hole.

Now it is important not to radically change everything during repairs, but to breathe new life into old objects that have an attractive appearance. Therefore, the question will arise, how to glue the ceramic sink for restoration.

There are such adhesives for ceramics:

• waterproof glue;
• silicone sealant;
• cold welding.

Use a building hair dryer first to get rid of unnecessary moisture. Now you can seal the crack (for example with waterproof glue) and leave to dry for at least four hours.

Then you should apply epoxy putty at the joints and sand the place of repair with fine-grained sandpaper.

Also watch a video with an example of marble sink restoration.

DIY apartment renovation

Daily use of the washbasin and bathtub can lead to the formation of chips, scratches and other defects on their enamel surfaces. Small deformations of the enamel layer are not difficult to repair. These are usually small chips and scratches of the enamel. In this case, to restore the enamel layer, it is optimal to use special sets - enamel restorers.

WITHIndependent repair of damaged enamel sinks, bathtubs and other plumbing fixtures will go much faster and easier with these specialized kits.

To remove more serious defects on the surface of the product, you will need to completely repaint the sink or bathtub, or even think about buying new plumbing fixtures. One of the ways to solve this problem can be purchasing an acrylic bath liner.

The paintwork of the sink and bathtub is resistant to external influences of cold and hot water, household chemicals. Hot applied to a metal frame, it becomes a reliable shell that protects the product from an aggressive environment and, in theory, can serve for centuries.But in practice, this does not happen due to all sorts of mechanical influences on the enamel coating of bathtubs and sinks.

Surface scratches are the smallest problem: they can be easily repaired by polishing or touching up. And in any case, you will have to tinker with chips of enamel, since this area must first be putty so that it becomes even and does not accumulate water.

how to repair chips

Enamelled washbasins, sinks and bathtubs are made from ordinary cast iron or steel. When the protective enamel layer is destroyed, the metal frame rusts. Over time, under the paint and varnish layer, rust can spread to large areas, spoiling both the enamel and the plumbing device itself. The edges of the chips are usually sharp, with microcracks extending into the surface of the "whole" enamel. If the defective area is not repaired in a timely manner, moisture will penetrate further and the damage will expand.

During the repair of the enamel coating, the damaged area is first thoroughly sanded and then puttyed. Putties are used of various types, they are usually applied in several layers. When restoring fairly large areas of enamel coatings, an epoxy putty (two-component) is perfect. When the putty is completely dry, the surface of the defect is again thoroughly sanded, dust is removed and an enamel composition is applied by spraying. In this case, aerosol cans work well. Then, after the first layer has completely hardened, the second enamel layer is applied.

Before finishing work, the bath must be prepared. To begin with, it is thoroughly cleaned and the deposits formed over time are removed. A standard household cleaning compound is ideal for this purpose.

You can also try to remove dirt and stains on the enamel with lemon.

Then the surface of the product is treated with wet sandpaper, periodically washing off the sludge formed during grinding with water. Then, enamel is applied to a dry and clean surface, strictly following the instructions of the manufacturer.

• Cleaning the damaged area.
• Removal of plaque.
• Grinding the damaged area, smoothing the edges of the chip.
• Remove dust, rinse and dry the sink.
• Degreasing the defective area.
• Application of not thick layers of enamel in several passes (while waiting for the enamel of the previous layer to dry).
• Putty on large chips, sanding and degreasing.
• Polishing the repaired surface.

Materials that will be needed:

• household cleaning agent;
• moisture resistant sandpaper for grinding;
• epoxy putty (two-component);
• enamel (in an aerosol can or in a can).

Restoration of small defects in enamel

The sharp edges of the cleavage are thoroughly processed using a skin soaked in water. Carefully polished surface is soaked with a swab dipped in white spirit, acetone or other solvent. It must be dry, clean and fat-free. On the prepared areas, the enamel is applied in several thin layers, remembering to let each of them dry completely.

• Cleaning the entire surface of the product with a coarse sandpaper.
• Sanding the cleaned surface with fine sandpaper, removing dust.
• Uniform application of the enamel with a foam roller.
• Shading the enamel with a flat brush.

Additional tool for renewing the cover of a sink or bathtub:

• flat brush;
• foam paint roller;
• enamel tray.

Restoration of the cover of a sink or bath

On the edges of a thoroughly sanded and sanded product, painter's tape is carefully glued along the entire perimeter. The enamel is applied using a foam roller, by making perpendicular movements with it and distributed evenly over the entire surface, so that no sagging and dripping occurs. With a flat brush, shade the applied enamel, moving it from top to bottom, and then along the bath.

The naturally renewed coating of a sink or bathtub will be significantly inferior in strength characteristics to enamel coatings obtained in the factory. Aggressive cleaning agents, salts and acids can quickly destroy the new coating. In this regard, when choosing an enamel, one should not neglect the advice of manufacturing plants, and in addition, the repaired product should be handled with care.

As in previous cases, before starting the application of a new coating, it is necessary to thoroughly prepare the restored surface. Failed enamel must be cleaned with an abrasive material. Since it is quite long and difficult to do this manually, it is better to use a drill with a special attachment for these purposes.

After removing the old coating, dirt and dust are washed off, then the surface is degreased with a solvent, the siphon is removed and the bath is prepared for applying a new acrylic coating.

An excellent feature of this technology is that there is no need to patch up chips and deep scratches - the stackrill spreading over the surface will fill all the grooves and level the product to an ideal state.

bath enamel repair and sink restoration. Chipped on the sink

Then a container is installed under the drain hole - this is where the extra glass will get, and we begin to apply the liquid material. We pour it out with a not strong stream along the edge of the side and wait until it drains down to the middle of the bath in height, after which we begin to displace the pouring stream from the can on all sides of the bath. The main thing is that there is enough liquid material for the entire bath. It is better to take it a little in reserve - in any case, the excess will drain into a specially installed container.

The process cannot be interrupted. After starting the operation, do not stop until you have completed a full circle. You don't need to fix anything - most likely just screw it up. All sags and streaks should disperse on their own. You only need to wait until the renewed bath surface is completely dry.

In conclusion, I would like to give a small recommendation for those who decide to restore the bathtub using liquid acrylic - no need to dilute the material, trying to save it in this way. This will only lead to a thinning of the coating layer, and naturally a reduction in its service life.