In detail: do-it-yourself frame repair on sable from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
=========================================================================== The peculiarities of the Russian transportation market are such that during operation, the Gazelle is often operated with overload, often up to 3 tons. Naturally, the frame, designed for 1.5 tons of load, does not withstand and begins to crack, break, deform. Also, there are cracks and deformations of the frame associated with material fatigue, with high mileage and age of the car.
Our technical center has mastered and successfully applies technologies for repairing cracks, strengthening frames.
Repair, welding of cracks in the gazelle frame: It is produced by stripping, making and installing repair patches, patches, etc. Most of these works are done locally, the shape and size of the repair linings are individual in each case. For their manufacture, we use both the material of the frames of the car gazelle and special linings and inserts.
Thanks to extensive experience in repair, as well as observation of repaired cars in the subsequent period of operation, the methods of repair, welding of overlays, welding of cracks have been worked out and give good results in subsequent operation.
In addition to repairs, technologies have been developed to strengthen the frame for various loads and tasks. We use both small-scale inserts - amplifiers and inserts made individually, depending on the wishes of the customer.
Reinforcement for frame gap between cab and body:
Front frame reinforcement in the area of the cab bracket and front shock absorber:
Amplifier installation example:
The cost of repairs, welding cracks, strengthening the frame in each case is individual, formed after the inspection of the place of damage by a specialist. Prices for some common works are shown in the table:
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Dedila 04 Oct 2013
And better in the old fashioned way, timber and stepladders. I almost got it too.
Video (click to play).
Just do not forget to smear some kind of fuel oil, such as graphite grease, between the bar and the frame, otherwise the frame will rot. If for a good reason, then you also need to do between the bracket (rear) of the spring and the frame. Shock absorber bracket - frame. Rot will form between all mating parts and the frame without lubrication. You can spray with something penetrating.
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Sitdikov 21 Jan 2014
Good afternoon, dear colleagues!
Once again, in the smoking room, they raised the topic of a crack on the frame of Gazelle cars! I see many have encountered this problem. If possible and willing, I ask you to participate. Below is the link. If possible, send a photo of the cracks in the frame, with comments and data. I ask you to write without unnecessary flooding and only on business. The collected data with the help of a representative of the plant, we will try to convey to the representatives at the GAZ plant. Everyone's participation is important here.
You say the frame is cracking? Need to bring info to the plant? I am for, I will send, just for this I am here - write a detailed report in the form from the branch header and post for example here:
And write in such a way that it is clear to the quality director who and how operates and maintains the cars, and what this leads to.
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RIE 08 Feb 2014
Repair of the Sobol frame. I will share my experience.
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Toyota007 08 Feb 2014
RIE, this is cool as it burst, I have not seen this on the forum.
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Sobolyok 282 08 Feb 2014
It did not burst weakly, I had a car of 2003 and I drove it quite a lot, but there were no cracks in the frame, except for the motor partition, and the mileage was 350 thousand km.
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RIE 08 Feb 2014
RIE, this is cool as it burst, I have not seen this on the forum.
The fact is that the frame was cooked in an Armenian service. They didn't even crack the patch. As a result, after two years it turned out THIS.There you can see, I cut out a piece with an overlay and welded on a piece of the frame.
Why bring such a thing. I inserted inserts at the first sign. And the whole crack no longer grows.
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Dobbik 07 Jul 2014
Guys, where to edit the frame in St. Petersburg? Thanks.
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Pasha 96 13 Aug 2014
tore out a triangular piece of the frame along the bottom edge under the amorta bracket, how best to do it, 2705.
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Pasha 96 13 Aug 2014
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gavriloff 13 Aug 2014
tore out a triangular piece of the frame along the bottom edge under the amorta bracket, how best to do it, 2705. Insert the torn piece and boil, clean and paint.
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Metalist 13 Aug 2014
e under the bracket of the amorta, how best to do
usually the channel is placed inside, on the bolts.
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Maks52 13 Aug 2014
tore out a triangular piece of the frame along the bottom edge under the amorta bracket, how best to do it, 2705.
Strip, weld, reinforce, and check the shock absorbers
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Leha306 52 14 Sep 2014
Thanks to the factory workers, even though they made plenty of holes in the frame, I didn't have to drill a single one myself. Only the lining, but the corners of the centimeter thickness, and put order. I always put it symmetrically, even if everything is in order on the opposite side of the frame, I still put the same overlay. I think the cracks come from the disgusting roads. When the frame turns diagonally on the bumpers, stresses arise, leading to cracks. There is only one way out - thicker metal is needed for the frame.
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Goga 14 Sep 2014
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Fast Turtle Sep 21, 2014
Thanks to the factory workers, even though they made plenty of holes in the frame, I didn't have to drill a single one myself. Only the lining, but the corners of the centimeter thickness, and put order. I always put it symmetrically, even if everything is in order on the opposite side of the frame, I still put the same overlay. I think the cracks come from the disgusting roads. When the frame turns diagonally on the bumpers, stresses arise, leading to cracks. There is only one way out - thicker metal is needed for the frame.
I think vertical in the area of ammortes, levers, brackets, from overload and potholes, but the front attachment of the body to the frame is at least two reasons
2. In the turn it is necessary to turn, and not "lay down" (the frame deviates in the direction of the turn, the body, on the contrary, pulls out
And of course, the frame could have been strengthened at least locally.
With diesels and cummins in particular, probably quite "sadness"
Post has been edited Fast Turtle: 21 September 2014 - 15:58
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alex134 11 Oct 2014
the frame is cracked next to the "screw"
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AHdray 11 Oct 2014
the frame is cracked next to the "screw"
Intellect is rushing!
Post has been editedAHdrey: 11 October 2014 - 10:44
How to remove the spring on Sobol, replacing the silent blocks in the upper arm. Replacement of ball.
Assembling a gur for a sable gazelle.
After troubleshooting the motor, it turned out that there was nothing alive in it. It was decided to take the motor first.
Repair Gazelle. Modernization of a sliding door for a gazelle. DIY repair Thank you all for watching.
Replacing iron on your own.
Restoration and retrofitting of a car with a motocross trailer.
Auto 2003 release. Minibus interior tuning has been made.
We change the old rotten wheel arches on the Gazelle with new ones. We cut out rot, insert new ones, scald, clean up.
Cars change, friends and the forum remain. [my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/1209]
Message zapravshik »25 Apr 2013, 08:14
Something did not find a topic about this problem. Cracks in the roof body at the rear sliding door pillar, in the engine bulkhead behind the engine ECU, cracked body support brackets. The frame is cracking at all kinds of brackets. If someone treated, in what ways?
Added after 2 minutes 35 seconds: Oops, there is a theme on the frame
can we unite?
Message partisan150 »25 Apr 2013, 18:02
Message zapravshik »25 Apr 2013, 21:25
Message partisan150 »Apr 26, 2013 4:14 pm
Message zapravshik »Apr 28, 2013, 21:54
Message Pan 40 »04 May 2013, 11:19
Message partisan150 »06 May 2013, 19:17
Message Pan 40 »06 May 2013, 22:15
Message zapravshik »07 May 2013, 01:13
Message partisan150 »07 May 2013, 19:21
Touch me, I would bolt on top of the old one. If you cook it better with an automatic machine and with an experienced welder.
There is nothing terrible in the repair of frames, so that those who have heard something somewhere do not tell. This article is for those who will repair the frame themselves. Having experience in working with the frames of semi-trailers of long-range trucks, I encountered a crack on the frame of the Gazelle - it turned out to be a work that can be done in ordinary garage conditions. In the Gazelle, there is less space to get to the problem area of the frame with a grinder or welding, but there is also less work.
The first thing I had to face was a cracked frame under the support of the front shock absorber. from the top shelf and almost reached the bottom. Although not convenient, there is not enough space, I chamfered the crack on both sides and at the end I drilled a hole to stop its growth, then I welded it with a semiautomatic device on both sides. I cleaned the seam from the inside. Along the seam - on the wall of the frame, I drilled three holes (10 mm in diameter): top, middle and bottom, and also three to five centimeters parallel to them, three to five centimeters on both sides. I cut out the plate for the bookmark into the inner part of the five metal so that it overlaps all the holes and, pressing it with a clamp, welded all the holes to the plate (electric riveting). And also welded the upper and lower edges of the plate to the frame (longitudinal seams). The driver experienced the first 10-20 thousand, (already more than 200), now he tells others how to do it.
Cars of the Gazelle family have a frame structure. The frame consists of two longitudinal side members with transverse load-bearing members. On the long version, the frame has an insert that is fixed with bolts or rivets. The cab is mounted through hard rubber cushions. The onboard platform is installed on special elements. The engine is mounted through rubber cushions on the front cross-member with two front points. The third engine fixing point is the gearbox, which is also fixed to the frame. Front and rear springs, a gas tank are attached to the frame, brake pipes and electrical wiring to the rear lighting devices pass inside the frame.
The frame design of a modern Gazelle is quite reliable, subject to successful assembly and careful operation. There are many negative reviews on the quality of gazelle frames (in real life and on the Internet). You can find the opinion that on the Gazelles of the 1990s, the frame was weakened, that the elongated versions of the frames are less reliable, etc. There are many photos of Gazelles broken in half on the Internet. This all raises questions and concerns.
It must be said here that there can be no absolutely reliable (eternal) construction. Any frame can be broken or "wrapped", i.e. deform. Everything has a tensile strength, which it is advisable not to exceed. Also, the Gazelle frame has load standards. Do not forget that the carrying capacity of the Gazelle is only 1.5 tons, and not 2, 3 or 4. Many owners "forget", and then they are surprised - only 3 tons of potatoes were loaded, and the frame for some reason broke. Of course, it's a bad frame, not a nerd driver. The carrying capacity of the extended onboard Gazelles is less than 1.5 tons, the lifting capacity of the Farmers is even less due to the heavier two-row cab. The frame handles the load it is designed to handle well, but no more. If someone thinks to increase the carrying capacity by adjusting the rear springs (freight carriers and market workers sin with this), then he does it at his own peril and risk. Also, towing should be carried out only when absolutely necessary and only in tension, without jerking. On my Farmer, I pulled out the rear bulkhead, trying to "help" a stuck manipulator with a total weight of more than 5 tons. Then he welded 120 channel into it.
There are no complaints about the reliability of the frame itself, the geometry and loads are well calculated.But the build quality traditionally floats within wide limits. At the plant, it may be elementary not to put some kind of bolt or rivet, not to mention the fact that all other parts of the car (cab, body, engine, gearbox, gas tank) may be poorly fixed, that is, not fully tightened. On a new car, a full broach of everything that is available is required.
The cracks in the frame must be welded. Usually, a diamond-shaped patch is made from a sheet of 3-4 mm and scalded with a semiautomatic device. When registering a car with a welded frame, the traffic police may require an act of completed work from a car service.
Some frame elements cannot be repaired, but must be replaced. For example, if there is a crack on the traverse on which the engine is attached with two points. In the photo there is a crack in the area of the bolts attached to the frame side member.
There is usually no need to reinforce the frame structure. The exception is the cases of installation of heavy vans - manufactured goods, furniture, isothermo, refrigerators and others. But in these cases, the additional channel is included in the van, and the companies that install the van are engaged in its installation.
Straightening the frame of the elongated "Gazelle" with the help of a reinforced body. The frame over the rear axle bent from overload. The photo shows that the factory body is welded from 2 body halves. Even the tailgate attachments are visible in the middle. The frame is cut and docked. Due to the point-fixing of the old body and the large rear overhang, the load was not evenly distributed and the frame was bent.
We make a one-piece reinforced body on a subframe in full length. We fasten the body with stepladders across the board. This subframe also reinforces the vehicle's frame. The car's frame has straightened. It turns out that the body is stronger than the frame !?) Method number 1.
works with overloads, and this is practically everything, there is such
The body with the load sways and breaks off pieces of the frame along with the bolt.
If the fastening bolts are loose, then the fastening socket in the frame breaks and
the frame is cracking. Or, with a strong impact from behind, the legs bend and
The car frame is the most important element of light commercial vehicles. It is the basis, the skeleton, the "skeleton" to which the units, mechanical units and the body of the Gazelle are fixed. The engine, transmission, axles, suspension, steering impose increased demands on the mechanical properties of the Gazelle frame. Of course, the developers take into account all the operational influences on the Gazelle frame when creating a car project in the design office. But there are exceptions to the rule.
Attention! At this time, work on strengthening the Gazelle frame by the DELTA technical center is not being performed.
One of the main directions of using small commercial vehicles is the organization of freight traffic. The most common vehicle for this type of activity is the Gazelle. It is this car that has become one of the most attractive solutions for small businesses, and an acceptable combination of price, quality and vehicle carrying capacity has made it very popular.
Repeatedly from the owners of the Gazelle, you can hear that this is the car that "feeds" and provides them. And they are right. But it is also important to add that the car "feeds" as long as the loading of the body allows. As soon as the amount of transported goods does not fit in the body, and the carrying capacity ceases to be satisfied, the search for ways to solve this problem begins. Build up the sides is the simplest solution. But this solution does not significantly increase the carrying capacity, and one has to think about increasing the suspension power.
In reality, there is only one way to increase the carrying capacity of the Gazelle - to order springs reinforcement at a car service (price and details here). Such work can be performed in the service, and if everything is done correctly and professionally, then the maximum load in terms of the amount of cargo increases significantly. On average, instead of one and a half tons, you can load up to 3.5 tons.An excellent solution and at the same time with minimal costs! The visible "subsidence" of the body is reduced from 12 centimeters (without reinforced springs) to 5 cm (with reinforced springs).
But where is the pressure of the fully loaded body transmitted to? It is unlikely that the manufacturer has laid down such a margin of safety when designing? All weight is distributed to the Gazelle frame. Moreover, this distribution is not always uniform. Incorrect placement of the load mass during loading leads to an abnormal load distribution on the vehicle frame. And the cab of the Gazelle, which has undergone modernization by strengthening the springs, rises by 4-6 cm when loading a load of 3.5 tons. The car frame receives colossal loads in places of constant overload (zones of connections and fastenings of elements).
It is to these places that the owner of the Gazelle should pay special attention and, if possible, make them stronger. Recently, proposals for strengthening the Gazelle frame have appeared on the market for repair and maintenance of GAZ vehicles. As the experience of operating a car shows with reinforced springs and an increase in carrying capacity, it is recommended to reinforce the car frame itself without fail.
Consider areas of increased load on the frame.
Many owners who own a small GAZelle truck seek to improve it by strengthening the frame, which increases the carrying capacity of the machine and extends its service life. The frame of this car is made of a steel channel and has a weak spot between the front and rear wheels, where deformations and even cracks occur. There are cases when the car broke in half in this place, so strengthening the GAZelle frame is not an unnecessary procedure at all. Attempts to patch up violations using electric welding do not guarantee much success, since the weld causes stress in the metal and the appearance of new cracks next to it.
It is much better to reinforce the frame structure with overlays, which can be made from an old frame of the same car or from a new metal profile - a channel or corners. In the blank of the reinforcing part, grooves are cut out to bypass the existing fasteners and holes are drilled with which the reinforcement and the frame are tightened with bolts. In this case, welding is not used, no stresses appear in the frame.
It is better to use bolts with fine threads, they have much less chance of spontaneous loosening. The hardened bolts can be taken from the UAZ universal joint, and the nuts to them - from the Gaz-66 connecting rod.
Many improvements can be made to this practical little truck with your own hands. For example, in addition to strengthening, you can also lengthen the GAZelle frame. In addition, the body of the car can be changed to a van, and a regular van can be converted into an isothermal one.
Insulation of the van is ensured by lining the body from the inside with a heat insulator, which is convenient to use polyurethane foam sheet and liquid polyurethane foam, which fills the gaps between the insulation sheets. From the inside, the insulated van is faced with stainless or galvanized (worse) steel or laminated plywood. Sometimes the van is made of sandwich panels, which already have a heat-insulating layer in their composition.
You can also perform the opposite procedure: if you need to transport bulky goods, you can make an on-board platform on the car with your own hands by purchasing ready-made sides. With a certain diligence and skills in working with metal, such work can be done by yourself, especially since no special equipment is required for this purpose.
For those who cannot or cannot
Not everyone is given the ability to work with metal. Someone simply does not succeed, and someone cannot afford to allocate enough time for a serious bulkhead of the car. In this case, we may recommend contacting us. We employ experienced specialists who have repeatedly strengthened and lengthened the frames, carried out the manufacture and installation of isothermal vans, the manufacture of on-board platforms.You can see samples of our work in the photo and on the website, the price of the work is quite reasonable. At the same time, we can carry out any repairs to your GAZelle and paint it with high quality in the desired color.
Gainbody and frame straightening "Gazelle".
Straightening the frame of the elongated "Gazelle" with the help of a reinforced body. The frame over the rear axle bent from overload. The photo shows that the factory body is welded from 2 body halves. Even the tailgate attachments are visible in the middle. The frame is cut and docked. Due to the point-fixing of the old body and the large rear overhang, the load was not evenly distributed and the frame was bent.
We make a one-piece reinforced body on a subframe in full length. We fasten the body with stepladders across the board. This subframe also reinforces the vehicle's frame. The car's frame has straightened. It turns out that the body is stronger than the frame !?) Method number 1.
The body and frame of the "Gazelle" before replacement. # 1.
The body and frame of the "Gazelle" before replacement. The frame is bent.
The body and frame of the "Gazelle" before replacement. The frame is bent.
It can be seen how the frame of the Gazelle is bent. The body is installed.
The frame of the Gazelle straightened out. The body is installed.
The gates of the Gazelle van after installing the body on the frame.
Terrible dream of a gazelist. The frame is cracked.
Terrible dream of a gazelist. The frame is cracked.
Full immersion repair
Why does the frame break and how to avoid or repair it? To all
it is known that due to an unsuccessful factory solution for fixing the body
bolted to the upper shelf of the frame, the frame itself cracks along the holes
fastenings. Almost all Gazelles with bodies on "legs", who
works with overloads, and this is practically everything, there is such
problem. The body with the load sways and breaks off pieces of the frame along with the bolt.
If the fastening bolts are loose, then the fastening socket in the frame breaks and
the frame is cracking. Or, with a strong impact from behind, the legs bend and
the body hits the cockpit. We usually do this. If the frame is intact, then
we remake the fasteners for stirrups and weld on the bent channel. If the frame has cracks, then the body is removed, repaired and installed
repair inserts-liners inside the frame.
A small addition to the article "Terrible dream of a gazelist". After repairing the frame and installing the body, we install a new toolbox and new wheel arch liners. The work is done.
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Kedrach (04 August 2012 - 19:22) wrote:
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wasq (05 August 2012 - 19:59) wrote:
Against the background of unimog, it does not curl at all.
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Kedrach (06 August 2012 - 07:10) wrote:
The argument is, of course, stupid. But here's a photo. Moreover, the car stands still. The right rear wheel ran over the stump. The dynamics are even cooler. Is the Unimog really that much more?
Post has been edited rencom: 06 August 2012 - 15:24
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To do this, you will have to solve the issues of fastening numerous brackets, pillows, transverse jumpers, etc. It is easier to weld a new frame from a rectangular shaped tube.
But I see the meaning in a "rigid" frame only if there is an independent suspension. Dependent spring suspensions will quickly destroy the frame, which will not be able to compensate for various kinds of diagonal hanging (that is, it will not twist).
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igor sv 59 (07 August 2012 - 20:33) wrote:
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Moskvichevod (07 August 2012 - 20:22) wrote:
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wasq (10 August 2012 - 12:23) wrote:
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First page in search for “body subframe”.
Or they have strengthened the Gazelle (I do not recommend doing this, it will break between the cab and the body) 30376152043087/
If we consider truck tractors, there is no body, which means there is no body subframe. And so on-board or vans almost always have longitudinal structures integrated into the body structure, which are fixed with ladders to the frame side members.
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Even before the heap, my car is an overgrown Bull. Working moment, getting ready for the installation of the CMU.
The body is moved back.The body subframe is pointed with a red arrow.
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Post edited by rencom: 12 August 2012 - 18:13
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I also have a rigid installation base. Therefore, I completely abandoned the stepladder options.
Instead, side plates were made (cut from the 60th I-beam), welded to the base of the installation, and the whole structure was bolted to the side surfaces of the side members.
I used bolts with a precise ground diameter of the non-threaded part (from the flywheel), holes with a minimum clearance. This is not to blab.
Video (click to play).
In the place where the installation is located, the frame is reinforced with a standard pad, which is designed so that local overstressing does not occur.