In detail: do-it-yourself frame repair on a sable from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
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The features of the Russian transportation market are such that during operation, the Gazelle is often operated with overload, often up to 3 tons.
Naturally, the frame, designed for 1.5 tons of load, does not withstand and begins to crack, break, and deform.
Also, there are cracks and frame deformations associated with material fatigue, high mileage and age of the car.
Our technical center has mastered and successfully applies technologies for repairing cracks and reinforcing frames.
Repair, welding of cracks in the gazelle frame:
Produced by stripping, manufacturing and installing repair pads, patches, etc. Most of these works are done on site, the shape and size of the repair pads in each case are individual.
For their manufacture, we use both the material of the frames and / m gazelle, as well as special overlays and inserts.
Thanks to extensive repair experience, as well as monitoring of repaired vehicles in the subsequent period of operation, repair methods, overlay welding, crack welding have been worked out and give good results in subsequent operation.
In addition to repair, technologies for strengthening the frame for various loads and tasks have been developed.
We use both small-scale inserts - amplifiers, and inserts made individually, depending on the wishes of the customer.
Reinforcement for frame gap between cab and body:
Front frame reinforcement in the area of the cab bracket and front shock absorber:
Amplifier installation example:
The price of repair, welding of cracks, reinforcement of the frame is individual in each case, it is formed after the inspection of the place of damage by a specialist.
Prices for some common works are shown in the table:
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And better in the old fashioned way, timber and stepladders. I almost missed too.
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Video (click to play). |
Just do not forget to smear some kind of fuel oil like graphite grease between the timber and the frame, otherwise the frame will rot. If for good, then you also need to do between the bracket (rear) of the spring and the frame. Shock absorber bracket - frame. Rot forms between all mating parts and the frame without lubrication. You can spray something penetrating.
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Good afternoon dear colleagues!
Once again, the subject of a crack in the frame of Gazelle cars was raised in the smoking room! I see a lot of people have this problem. If possible and willing, I ask you to participate. Link below. If possible, send photos of frame cracks, with comments and data. I ask you to write without unnecessary flooding and only on business. We will try to convey the collected data with the help of a representative of the plant to the responsible persons at the GAZ plant. Everyone's participation is important here.
You say the frame is cracking? Do I need to send information to the factory? I’m for it, I’ll forward it, that’s exactly what I’m here for - write a detailed report on the form from the branch header and post it here, for example:
And write in such a way that it is clear to the quality director who and how operates and maintains cars, and what this leads to.
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RIE 08 Feb 2014
Sable frame repair. I will share my experience.
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Toyota007 Feb 08, 2014
RIE, that's cool how it burst, I have not seen this on the forum yet.
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Sobolek 282 08 Feb 2014
It didn’t burst slightly, I had a car in 2003 and I also drove quite a few on it, but there were no frame cracks, except for the engine partition, and the mileage was 350 thousand km.
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RIE 08 Feb 2014
RIE, that's cool how it burst, I have not seen this on the forum yet.
The fact is that the frame was cooked in the Armenian service. They didn't even crack the lining. As a result, after two years it turned out THIS. You can see there, I cut out a piece with an overlay and welded a piece of the frame.
What to bring such a thing. I inserted inserts at the first sign. And the crack doesn't grow anymore.
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Guys, where to edit the frame in St. Petersburg? Thanks.
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Pasha 96 13 Aug 2014
pulled out a triangular piece of the frame along the lower edge under the shock absorber bracket, how best to do it, 2705.
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Pasha 96 13 Aug 2014
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Aug 13, 2014
pulled out a triangular piece of the frame along the lower edge under the shock absorber bracket, how best to do it, 2705.
Insert the torn piece and boil, clean and paint.
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e under the shock absorber bracket, how best to do
usually the channel is placed inside, on the bolts.
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Maks52 Aug 13, 2014
pulled out a triangular piece of the frame along the lower edge under the shock absorber bracket, how best to do it, 2705.
Clean, weld, strengthen, and check shock absorbers
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Leha306 52 14 Sep 2014
Thanks to the factory workers, even though they made plenty of holes on the frame, I didn’t have to drill a single one myself. Only overlays, but I put the corners of a centimeter thickness and order. I always put it symmetrically, even if everything is in order on the opposite side of the frame, I still put the same overlay. I think the cracks are caused by disgusting roads. When the frame is twisted diagonally on potholes, then stresses arise leading to cracks. There is only one way out - thicker metal is needed for the frame.
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Fast Turtle Sep 21, 2014
Thanks to the factory workers, even though they made plenty of holes on the frame, I didn’t have to drill a single one myself. Only overlays, but I put the corners of a centimeter thickness and order. I always put it symmetrically, even if everything is in order on the opposite side of the frame, I still put the same overlay. I think the cracks are caused by disgusting roads. When the frame is twisted diagonally on potholes, then stresses arise leading to cracks. There is only one way out - thicker metal is needed for the frame.
I think vertical in the area of \u200b\u200bammorts, levers, brackets, from overload and potholes, but the front fastening of the body to the frame is at least two reasons
2. It is necessary to turn into a turn, and not “lie down” (the frame deviates in the direction of turning, while the body, on the contrary, pulls outward
And of course, the frame could have been strengthened at least locally
With diesels and cummins in particular, it’s probably quite “sadness”
Post has been edited by Fast Turtle: 21 September 2014 – 15:58
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the frame cracked next to the “screw”
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the frame cracked next to the “screw”
Intelligence is just like that!
Post has been edited by Ahdrey: 11 October 2014 – 10:44
How to remove the spring on Sobol, replacing silent blocks in the upper arm. Ball replacement.
Assembling a gur on a sable gazelle.
After troubleshooting the motor, it turned out that there was nothing alive in it. Decided to take the motor first.
Repair Gazelle. Modernization of a sliding door on a gazelle. DIY Repair Thank you all for watching.
Do-it-yourself iron replacement.
Restoration and retrofitting of a car with a trailer for motocross.
Auto produced in 2003. Produced tuning of the interior of the minibus.
We change the old rotten wheel arches on the Gazelle to new ones. We cut out the rot, insert new ones, scald, clean.
Cars change, friends and the forum remain. [my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/1209]
Message zapravshik » Apr 25, 2013, 08:14
Couldn't find a thread about this issue. Cracks in the body in the roof at the C-pillar of the sliding door, engine bulkhead behind the engine ECU, cracked body support brackets. The frame is cracking at all kinds of brackets. If anyone treated, in what ways?
Added after 2 minutes 35 seconds:
Oops, there is a theme on the frame 
can you eat?
Message partisan150 » 25 Apr 2013, 18:02
Message zapravshik » 25 Apr 2013, 21:25
Message partisan150 » 26 Apr 2013, 16:14
Message zapravshik » 28 Apr 2013, 21:54
Message Pan 40 » May 04, 2013, 11:19
Message partisan150 » May 06, 2013, 19:17
Message Pan 40 » May 06, 2013, 22:15
Message zapravshik » May 07, 2013, 01:13
Message partisan150 » 07 May 2013, 19:21
Touch me, I would do it with bolts on top of the old one. If you cook it, it’s better with an automatic machine and with an experienced welder.
There is nothing terrible in the repair of frames, so that those who heard something somewhere did not tell.This article is for those who will repair the frame themselves. Having experience with the frames of semi-trailers of long-range trucks, I encountered a crack on the frame of the Gazelle - the work turned out to be doable in ordinary garage conditions. In the Gazelle, there is less space to get with a grinder or welding to the problem area of the frame, but there is less work.
The first thing I had to deal with was a cracked frame under the front shock absorber support. from the top shelf and almost reached the bottom. Although not convenient, there is not enough space, I chamfered the crack on both sides and drilled a hole at the end to stop its growth, then boiled it with a semi-automatic device also on both sides. Cleaned up the seam on the inside. Along the seam - on the wall of the frame, I drilled three holes (10 mm in diameter): on top, in the middle and on the bottom, as well as three to five centimeters parallel to them on both sides, three more. I cut out a plate for laying in the inner part of the five metal, so that it overlaps all the holes and, pressing it with a clamp, scalded all the holes to the plate (electric riveting). And also welded the upper and lower edges of the plate to the frame (longitudinal seams). The driver experienced the first 10 - 20 thousand (already more than 200), now he himself tells others how to do it.
Cars of the Gazelle family have a frame structure. The frame consists of two longitudinal spars with transverse load-bearing elements. On the extended version, the frame has an insert that is fixed with bolts or rivets. The cabin is installed through hard rubber cushions. The onboard platform is mounted on special elements. The engine is mounted on the front traverse through rubber cushions with two front points. The third fixing point for the engine is the gearbox, which is also fixed to the frame. Front and rear springs, a gas tank are attached to the frame, brake pipes and electrical wiring to the rear lighting devices pass inside the frame.
The frame design of a modern Gazelle is quite reliable, subject to successful assembly and careful operation. There are many negative reviews on the quality of Gazelle frames (in real life and on the Internet). You can come across the opinion that on the Gazelles of the 1990s the frame was weakened, that the elongated versions of the frames are less reliable, etc. There are many photos of Gazelles broken in half on the net. All this raises questions and concerns.
It must be said here that there can be no absolutely reliable (eternal) construction. Any frame can be broken or “wrapped”, i.e. deform. Everything has a tensile strength, which is desirable not to exceed. Also, the Gazelle frame has load standards. Do not forget that the carrying capacity of the Gazelle is only 1.5 tons, and not 2, 3 or 4. Many owners “forget”, and then they are surprised - they loaded only 3 tons of potatoes, and for some reason the frame broke. Of course, this is a bad frame, not a cretin driver. The carrying capacity of the extended onboard Gazelles is less than 1.5 tons, the carrying capacity of the Farmers is even less due to the heavier two-row cab. The frame handles the load it's designed for, but no more. If someone thinks to increase the carrying capacity by adjusting the rear springs (cargo carriers and market workers sin this), then he does this at his own peril and risk. Also, towing should be carried out only when absolutely necessary and only tight, without jerking. On my Farmer, I tore out the rear jumper, trying to "help" a stuck manipulator with a total weight of more than 5 tons. Then I welded a 120 channel there.
There are no complaints about the reliability of the frame design itself, the geometry and loads are well calculated. But the build quality traditionally "floats" over a wide range. At the factory, they may simply not put any bolt or riveting, not to mention the fact that all other components of the car (cabin, body, engine, gearbox, gas tank) may be poorly fixed, that is, not completely screwed. On a new car, a full broach of everything that is only available is required.
Places of cracks on the frame must be welded. Usually they make a diamond-shaped overlay from a sheet of 3-4 mm and scald with a semi-automatic device.When registering a car with a welded frame, the traffic police may require an act of work performed from a car service.
Some elements of the frame cannot be repaired, but must be replaced. For example, if there is a crack on the traverse, on which the engine is attached with two points. In the photo there is a crack in the area of the bolts of fastening to the frame side member.
It is usually not necessary to strengthen the frame structure. The exception is the installation of heavy vans - manufactured goods, furniture, isotherms, refrigerators and others. But in these cases, an additional channel is included in the van, and the companies installing the van are engaged in its installation.
Straightening the frame of the elongated Gazelle with the help of a reinforced body. The frame above the rear axle bent from overload. The photo shows that the factory body is welded from 2 halves of the bodies. In the middle, even the rear wall mounts are visible. The frame is cut and docked. Due to the point attachment of the old body and the large rear overhang, the load was not evenly distributed, and the frame was bent.
We make a one-piece reinforced body on the overframe in full length. We fix the body with the help of stepladders through the board. This subframe also reinforces the frame of the car. The frame of the car straightened. It turns out that the body is stronger than the frame!?) Method number 1.
works with overloads, and this is almost everything, there is such
The body with the load sways and breaks out pieces of the frame along with the bolt.
If the fastening bolts are loosened, then the fastening socket in the frame is broken and
the frame is cracking. Or, with a strong blow from behind, the legs bend and
The car frame is the most important element of light commercial vehicles. It is the basis, the skeleton, the “skeleton” to which the units, mechanical components and the body of the Gazelle are attached. The engine, transmission, axles, suspensions, steering impose increased requirements on the mechanical properties of the Gazelle frame. Of course, the developers take into account all operational impacts on the Gazelle frame when creating a car project in a design office. But there are exceptions to the rule.
Attention! At this time, work to strengthen the Gazelle frame is not being carried out by the DELTA technical center.
One of the main areas of use of small commercial vehicles is the organization of freight transportation. The most common vehicle for this type of activity is the Gazelle. It was this car that became one of the most attractive solutions for small businesses, and an acceptable combination of price, quality and carrying capacity of the vehicle ensured its high popularity.
Repeatedly from the owners of the Gazelle you can hear that this is exactly the car that “feeds” them and provides them. And they are right. But it is also important to add that the car “feeds” as long as the loading of the body allows. As soon as the amount of goods transported does not fit in the back, and the carrying capacity ceases to suit, the search for ways to solve this problem begins. Increasing the sides is the easiest solution. But this solution does not allow to significantly increase the carrying capacity, and one has to think about increasing the suspension power.
There is only one way to really increase the carrying capacity of a Gazelle - order spring reinforcement at a car service (price and details here). Such work can be done in the service, and if everything is done correctly and professionally, then the maximum load in terms of the amount of cargo increases significantly. On average, instead of one and a half tons, you can load up to 3.5 tons. An excellent solution and at the same time at a minimal cost! Visible “sagging” of the body is reduced from 12 centimeters (without reinforced springs) to 5 cm (with reinforced springs).
But where is the pressure of the body loaded to the eyeballs transferred? It is unlikely that the manufacturer laid down such a margin of safety when designing? All weight is distributed to the frame of the Gazelle. However, this distribution is not always uniform. Incorrect placement of the cargo mass during loading leads to an abnormal distribution of the load on the vehicle frame.And the cabin of the Gazelle, which has been modernized by strengthening the springs, when loaded with a load of 3.5 tons, rises by 4–6 cm. The car frame receives enormous loads in places of constant overloads (zones of connections and fastenings of elements).
It is to these places that the owner of the Gazelle should pay special attention and, if possible, strengthen them. Recently, proposals have appeared on the market for repair and maintenance of GAZ vehicles to strengthen the frame of the Gazelle. As the experience of operating a car with reinforced springs and an increase in carrying capacity shows, it is mandatory to strengthen the car frame itself.
Consider the areas of increased load on the frame.
Many owners who have a small GAZelle truck seek to improve it by strengthening the frame, which increases the load capacity of the vehicle and extends its service life. The frame of this car is made of steel channel and has a weak point between the front and rear wheels, where deformations and even cracks occur. There are cases when the car broke in half in this place, so strengthening the frame of the GAZelle is not at all an extra procedure. Attempts to close up violations by electric welding do not guarantee much success, since the weld causes stress in the metal and the appearance of new cracks next to it.
It is much better to reinforce the frame design with overlays, which can be made from an old frame of the same car or from a new metal profile - a channel or corners. In the blank of the reinforcing part, grooves are cut to bypass the existing fasteners and holes are drilled, with the help of which the amplifier and frame are bolted together. Welding is not used, there is no stress in the frame.
Bolts are best used with fine threads, they are much less likely to loosen spontaneously. Hardened bolts can be taken from the UAZ cardan, and nuts for them can be taken from the Gas-66 connecting rod.
With your own hands, you can make many improvements to the design of this practical little truck. For example, in addition to strengthening, you can also lengthen the GAZelle frame. In addition, you can change the body of the car to a van, and convert an ordinary van into an isothermal one.
The isothermality of the van is ensured by lining the body from the inside with a heat insulator, which is convenient to use sheet polyurethane foam and liquid polyurethane foam, which fills the gaps between the insulation sheets. From the inside, the insulated van is lined with stainless or galvanized (worse) steel or laminated plywood. Sometimes the van is made of sandwich panels, which already have a heat-insulating layer in their composition.
You can also perform the reverse procedure: if you need to transport bulky goods, you can make an onboard platform on the machine with your own hands by buying ready-made sides. With a certain diligence and skills in working with metal, such work can be done by yourself, especially since no special equipment is required for this purpose.
For those who do not or cannot
Not everyone is given the ability to work with metal. Someone just doesn’t succeed, and someone can’t afford to allocate enough time for a serious car overhaul. In this case, we may recommend contacting us. We employ experienced specialists who have repeatedly strengthened and lengthened frames, manufactured and installed isothermal vans, and manufactured flatbeds. You can see samples of our work in the photo and on the website, the price of the work is quite reasonable. At the same time, we can perform any repair of your GAZelle and qualitatively paint it in the desired color.
Gain bodywork and straightening the Gazelle frame.
Straightening the frame of the elongated Gazelle with the help of a reinforced body. The frame above the rear axle bent from overload. The photo shows that the factory body is welded from 2 halves of the bodies. In the middle, even the rear wall mounts are visible. The frame is cut and docked.Due to the point attachment of the old body and the large rear overhang, the load was not evenly distributed, and the frame was bent.
We make a one-piece reinforced body on the overframe in full length. We fix the body with the help of stepladders through the board. This subframe also reinforces the frame of the car. The frame of the car straightened. It turns out that the body is stronger than the frame!?) Method number 1.
The body and frame of the Gazelle before replacement. No. 1.
The body and frame of the Gazelle before replacement. The frame is bent.
The body and frame of the Gazelle before replacement. The frame is bent.
It can be seen how the frame of the Gazelle is bent. Body installed.
The frame of the Gazelle took root. Body installed.
The gate of the Gazelle van after installing the body on the frame.
A terrible dream of a gazellist. Frame cracked.
A terrible dream of a gazellist. Frame cracked.
Repair with "full immersion"
Why does the frame break and how can it be avoided or repaired? Everyone
it is known that due to an unsuccessful factory solution for fixing the body
bolts to the upper shelf of the frame, the frame itself cracks along the holes
fastenings. Practically on all "Gazelles" with bodies on "legs", who
works with overloads, and this is almost everything, there is such
problem.
The body with the load sways and breaks out pieces of the frame along with the bolt.
If the fastening bolts are loosened, then the fastening socket in the frame is broken and
the frame is cracking. Or, with a strong blow from behind, the legs bend and
the body hits the cab. We usually do this. If the frame is intact, then
we remake the mounts on step-ladders and weld the bent channel.
If the frame has cracks, then the body is removed, repaired and installed
repair inserts-inserts inside the frame.
A small addition to the article "A terrible dream of a gazelist". After repairing the frame and installing the body, we put a new tool box and new fender liner. The work is done.
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I also have a hard base installation. Therefore, I completely abandoned the options with stepladders.
Instead, side plates were made (cut from the 60th I-beam), welded to the base of the installation, and the entire structure was screwed to the side surfaces of the spars.
The bolts were used with an accurate polished diameter of the non-threaded part (from the flywheel), holes with a minimum clearance. This is to keep it from slacking off.
Video (click to play). In the place where the installation is located, the frame is reinforced with a regular overlay, which is designed so that there is no local overstrengthening.
Post has been edited by rencom: 12 August 2012 – 18:13
Here's to the pile of my car - Ox-overgrown. The working moment, we are preparing for the installation of the CMU.
Body moved back. The subframe of the body is indicated by a red arrow.
The first page in the search for “body subframe”.
Or they strengthened the Gazelle (I don’t recommend doing this, it will break between the cab and the body)
30376152043087/If we consider truck tractors, there is no body, which means there is no body subframe. And so, flatbed or vans almost always have longitudinal structures integrated into the body structure, which are fixed with stepladders to the frame spars.
wasq (10 August 2012 – 12:23) wrote:
To do this, you will have to solve the issues of fastening numerous brackets, pillows, transverse jumpers, etc. It is easier to weld a new frame from a rectangular profile pipe.
But I see the point in a “rigid” frame only if there is an independent suspension. Dependent spring suspensions will quickly destroy the frame, which will not be able to compensate for all sorts of diagonal hangings (that is, it will not twist).
The argument is stupid. But here's a photo. Moreover, the car is in place. The right rear wheel hit a stump.
It's even tougher in dynamics. Does the Unimog really have that much more?Post has been edited by rencom: 06 August 2012 – 15:24
Against the background of a unimog, it does not curl at all.
