DIY uaz loaf frame repair

The first time I took up car body repair. I did everything alone. I haven't tried using a grinder and welding yet. Know what kind of hemorrhoids there will be, hell would have bought it now.

The frame was dull in places, I had to make patches.

Everything that the metal corrosion got to was cut off, while from the sides.

The sides of the car were sewn up with staining, everything had gone out many years ago.

New floor frame with lift cushions + 80mm

This is how I learned to cook with arc welding.

tore off everything that was riveted on the body

the new frame is ready. Pillows from the GAZ-53 vrodeb

Painted with hameraytom that will cover the aluminum.

Bakelized plywood floor. It is moisture resistant.

A frame of benches, a false gas tank for nishtyaks is visible.

The radiant hatch has gone out, and the aluminum blinds have been fitted.

Blinds installed, rust cut and stitched with aluminum

I want to say right away that what I did is not a classic roll cage, it can rather be called a power set of the body. The water and gas pipe was used, the outer diameter was 51 mm, the wall thickness was 3 mm. The frame took 30 meters of pipe, the weight is approximately 80-90 kg. It cost me about 7.000-8.000 rubles, it took one and a half months in time.

As for the welding seams, I am not an expert and I rarely get beautiful seams.

He bent with the help of such a pipe bender (), filled all the pipes with sand. At each bend, three subtle folds appeared, they appeared at the very beginning of the bend and did not increase even with a bend of 90 degrees. After scouring the internet and looking for advice on Drive, he created an entry in the BZ ( ), according to the advice in the recording, I decided to score on these folds.

Each pipe joint is reinforced with such corners, the metal thickness is 1.7 mm.

In order to completely weld the joints of pipes and corners, it was necessary to cut holes in the roof.

The legs of the frame are attached to the body through metal squares 120 x 120 mm with a thickness of 3-4 mm.

For correct joining, a pipe trimmer was made ().

The frame pipes are partially welded into the body, grooves for the pipes are cut to the roof crossbars, and then all this is welded with a strip of metal 2 mm thick. In the future, the body pillars and the frame will also be connected into one whole, I hope that this will make the body more rigid and it will cease break and crack.

There seems to be nothing further to write, so just a photo.

Something like this, unfortunately, a general view photo cannot be made because of the small garage, it simply does not work to move away.

Good evening, dear readers!)

Everyone has long known that the quality of welded seams on the body of a loaf leaves much to be desired, especially on new loaves! Almost every UAZ manufacturer went through this, and I decided to strengthen the body on my loaf, since opening the rear doors on the go and bursts in all corners of the body panels were tired .Walked into the garage, lit the stove, it is very cold outside and in the garage, respectively! I cut the kerchief and began to weld it. Of course it was necessary to do this before painting, but then there was no welding, so I didn’t know all the UAZ sores at that time. I cooked it, I just got a taste and the wire in welding ran out.

Tomorrow I will buy wire and continue to reinforce all the other openings.

Loaf owners, starting to tune this car, first of all ask themselves the question: "How to raise a UAZ loaf?" We will try to answer this question in this article. So, first of all, we will consider the ways of the UAZ elevator. This could be:

• UAZ body lift
• Loaf suspension lift

Both options have advantages and disadvantages. So, the loaf body lift is easier to implement, and also stands out with a greater degree of safety.This is explained by the fact that this method of elevator only slightly shifts the center of gravity of the car, which contributes to ensuring the stable behavior of the Loaf on turns and other difficult sections of the track.

If we talk about the suspension lift, then there is some danger due to the increase in the center of gravity. But at the same time, this method significantly changes the cross-country performance for the better.

As we can see, there are several ways to raise the Loaf. Therefore, it is possible to determine which lift kit UAZ Loaf will be needed only by deciding on the choice of the lift method. If you plan on doing the lift yourself, you can buy the lift kit from the store. Such kits differ in the composition of the parts and elements included in them.

So, a Loaf lift kit can contain:

• spacers "spring - frame";
• spring-to-frame spacers
• bolts;
• nuts, etc.

As you know, the passability of the car directly depends on the wheels. Considering that the wheels of the UAZ are shod with rather hard and not too large rubber, before proceeding directly to the elevator, it is necessary to mention the wheels. In addition, the tread pattern on the Loaf's tires leaves much to be desired. All this suggests that it will not be superfluous to install suitable imported wheels on the legendary car.

As an option, when choosing new wheels for the UAZ "Loaf" car, you can use BF Goodrich 33 × 10.5 R15 tires, and, accordingly, discs with a diameter of 15 centimeters. With regard to the choice of disks for them, it depends on the wishes of the owner. These can be light-alloy or light-alloy wheels. Or you can leave the usual regular discs.

However, it is not worth stopping at this stage, because such tuning makes it difficult to control, since at sharp turns the front wheels cling to the edges of the steering rods, and when the effect of crossing the axles appears, the wheels are located directly on the sides of the arches. This causes the tires to rub against the fender. Therefore, the UAZ Loaf body lift becomes an indispensable stage of tuning after the installation of the wheels.

As strange as it may seem, the UAZ Loaf's frame is attached to the body with ten furniture bolts, six of which are located in the area of ​​the passenger seats, two behind the front wheel arches, and two more at the feet of the driver and passenger. At the bottom, the bolts are secured with second nuts.

Before proceeding with the dismantling of the bolts, it is necessary to disconnect the battery, disconnect the earth from the engine - behind the bonnet compartment and raise the car on a lift.

Further, in order, we carry out the following actions:

• Disconnect the wires from the starter;
• Disconnect the radiator mounts from below or from above;
• We detach the rods of the drive of the transmission lever and the rod of the brake booster;
• Drain all the coolant and remove the hoses that are connected to the UAZ Loaf stoves;
• Disconnect the brake pedal rod to the vacuum booster;
• Disconnect the tubing leading to the tank control valve.

The last point may not seem so important, but non-observance of it can lead to the plate deflection under the mount, as a result of which it will have to be aligned.

Next, we proceed directly to unscrewing the nuts. Start with the six rear body bolts, then slightly loosen the front bolt nuts.

When lifting the UAZ Loaf with your own hands, be careful and careful, since the fasteners on such a car are usually rusty and outdated. If the bolt turns in the body, then it cannot be held. This creates additional difficulties in welding a nut or bolt to it.

To do everything correctly, it is necessary to hold one nut with a wrench, while unscrewing the lock nut with the head, and after that the main nut.

Next, you should lower the car on the wheels, since there will be no more work to be done under it. We also detach the steering column and detach the boot on the floor. And you can start lifting the body above the frame.The rise must be started from the back of the Loaf. The lifting height should eventually be about 10 centimeters.

It will be a good idea to insure by placing a wide wooden block between the frame and the body.

We unscrew the standard bolts and increase the holes for them up to 12 mm by drilling. Next, you need to do some work with the spacers. An inexpensive and suitable option as spacers are ordinary hockey pucks. The next steps will be to insert the spacers, bolts and tighten the nuts gradually, starting at the rear, continuing in the middle and ending at the front.

As a result, the body will rise by 6.5 centimeters. All that remains is to fix everything and you can put on large wheels.

Now let's consider the next way to carry out the UAZ Loaf lift - a suspension lift. As already mentioned, this method has both pros and cons. There are two main advantages of the suspension lift on the UAZ:

• improving the performance of the Loaf's passability, provided that the wheels remain in place, and the other part rises up;
• the ability to install large wheels that did not fit into the arches of the UAZ before the suspension lift.

Well, the main disadvantage of this method is the inevitable increase in the angles of the universal joints. In this case, cardans are included in the work for wear.

There are several options for a suspension lift. Let's take a look at some of them.

The simplest and most affordable option is to install longer spring earrings. When carrying out a suspension lift in a similar way, you should not get too carried away with this, so as not to install too long. Spring shackles that are too long can adversely affect suspension performance and affect handling. To avoid problems in handling, it is recommended to pull the earrings with a tie in the center.

Without disturbing the design of the springs, it is possible to slightly raise the Loaf's suspension by installing a spacer between the axle and the spring. At the same time, there is no need to wait for a large elevator; here it is also recommended not to get carried away with the process.

Of course, when installing such a spacer, it is necessary to decide on its fixation in the installation place, and also calculate that the length of the step-ladders of the springs is sufficient. It is also possible to restore old springs, or purchase new ones. There are also special items for such tuning on sale, but they are usually very expensive.

Springing the springs is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance. This process is useful not only for the suspension lift, but also for the purpose of making the hard UAZ suspension soft enough. However, despite the fact that there is an improvement in the quality of the suspension from this method, they are very insignificant.

If you decide to give it a try, you first need to cut, grind, or buy spacers, rubber, conveyor belt and metal. And most importantly, when lifting the suspension of the UAZ, longer-stroke shock absorbers will be required, since the rebound from the former will begin earlier.

In conclusion, I would like to note that the main thing is to know when to stop in everything. When you start tuning the UAZ 452 with your own hands, remember about your safety. After all, you will not have a guarantee with your own hand execution of the Loaf elevator.

The cars of the Ulyanovsk Automobile Plant were originally intended for military and national economic needs, therefore the undercarriage, frame and chassis were made of materials of increased strength. After the collapse of the Union, a lot of cars moved from state property to the private sector, continuing to serve faithfully. True, the UAZ body requires some attention, systematic restoration of the paint layer and removal of corrosion.

UAZs are quite maintainable and durable cars

Before starting the repair of the UAZ body, determine the degree of damage. Sometimes corrosion starts from the inside of the body, although the outer paint coat appears to be intact.

Wash and dry your vehicle thoroughly before scheduling repairs. Inspect the body for damage. Depending on the amount and size of corrosion, you decide whether it will be a DIY repair or send the car to a car service. Overhaul, or medium, is to be done.

So, you decided to repair the UAZ yourself.

• You clean problem areas to a metallic sheen.
• If the rust has eaten through the metal, you will have to put patches, weld them on the inside. Align the welding seams with an emery disc;
• First, smooth out any dents on the metal;
• Before applying the putty, wipe the body from dust, dry particles of old paint and then degrease.
• Treat the car body with phosphating primer. This measure localizes the centers of corrosion, even if there are rust spots, and protects the metal from further oxidation. The protective primer is diluted with a solvent and applied in a thin layer from a spray gun.

The body of the UAZ has to be patched up with metal, you can't do without a welding machine

After the phosphating primer, walk with an acrylic primer so that the phosphate does not chemically react with the putty.

• Now proceed to puttying. Apply the filler in thin layers, smoothing out any unevenness in the metal left after mechanical repairs. The putty is applied at least three times with intermediate drying and sanding of each layer.
• The putty surface is primed in one or two layers before painting. Use a spray gun for priming. The dried primer layer is sanded to form a flat surface, to remove possible streaks.
• Then 2-3 layers of autoenamel of the corresponding color are applied on the surface to be treated. Each layer is aged according to the time indicated on the can. Keep in mind that can dry times are for room temperature. If the temperature in the room is lower, the drying time of the paint will increase. Air humidity also affects paint drying no less than temperature. Sand each dried layer and wipe off dust with a sticky cloth.

In this chapter, you will learn an interesting way of how to repair a UAZ with your own hands., without using a welding machine. There will not be a word about fiberglass and epoxy - we will leave them for plastic, and for those would-be craftsmen who do not work conscientiously, but only to close the eyes of the customer. Respecting himself and his car, the owner, will not stick fiberglass with epoxy on the body damaged by rust. Because corrosion under such a patch will continue its destructive effect, and as a result, in a couple of months you will get an enlarged hole in this place.

On a metal body, especially if it is a UAZ loaf body, the patches should be made of metal. Find scraps of steel sheet close to the thickness of the body. Using a grinder, or a metal hacksaw, cut out patches from it to size, overlapping the holes on the machine body. Grind the cut out parts so that they do not stick out along the edges of the cuts, try on and grind to the attachment points. Use a strong soldering iron to tinkle the joints. Warm up the patch and put it on the tinned place, solder, while leveling the molten tin so that no protrusions form. Tighten gently with a hammer.

Let the patch cool. Check for strength. If done correctly, strength and durability are guaranteed. Sand your patch. So, using a soldering iron and tin, you can solder small patches on the body, on the door, and process the rest of the body parts. Tin, in addition to connecting it, also protects the metal from corrosion.

This method is no more expensive than fiberglass patches, but more reliable. This method allows you to carry out minor body repairs of any Ulyanovsk car.

Increasingly, the owners of the UAZ 452 model, popularly nicknamed the loaf, come to the need to modernize this machine.The body of the UAZ loaf is lifted, raised to increase cross-country ability. There are 2 lifting methods.

This option is easier to perform, and it provides greater stability to the machine in off-road conditions and on corners, due to the fact that the center of gravity does not shift. The body is lifted thanks to spacers that are inserted between the frame and the body and provide a rigid connection of these elements. The spacers raise the body by 8 cm, and if large wheels are installed, the car will become 15 cm higher. In this case, it is necessary to trim the wheel arches and fenders so that the wheels do not cling to them when cornering, and be sure to hang the mud flaps.

Increases the UAZ's ability to pass obstacles. True, in this case there is a risk of a shift in the center of gravity, the car will lose controllability and stability. The situation can only be saved by a comprehensive repair of the UAZ loaf body.

• To begin with, we determine the optimal suspension height;
• Please note that lifting is limited by cardan shafts;
• You can reduce the likelihood of the machine overturning by expanding the wheel distance.

To do this, take wide wheels, larger discs. Rear axles are changed to "Bars" or "Spacer". Replacing disc brakes will help to increase the inter-wheel distance. Disc brakes from the Volga car are installed without fitting.

During the operation of the loaf, the rear doors are skewed, which begin to open spontaneously.

We start strengthening the UAZ body with our own hands from the floor. For this purpose, we raise the floor and inspect the condition of the underbody. The body is reinforced with a 20x40 profile pipe. The bottom profile is welded to the bottom waves. The first pipe is laid along the edge of the body so that the tailgate rests against it. The second is parallel, at a distance of half a meter. Stiffeners from the same profile are also welded along the side wall of the body. Profiles are installed along the ceiling, parallel to the floor pipes. Thus, the shaped tubes form a frame to which the body walls are welded. Spacers are installed between the upper and lower pipes at a distance of 50cm. The resulting frame is welded to attract sagging corners of the body, so that the rear doors are aligned. If you weld a sheet of steel to the profiles welded to the side walls of the body and spacers, you get a convenient cabinet for fishing rods and guns. A shelf for various little things is also formed on top. In the same way, by installing stiffeners, the side wall and the doorway of the side door are strengthened.

Strengthening the body, increasing the rigidity, and provide "kerchiefs" welded at the junction of the body sheets. Only the kerchiefs must be welded at a distance not exceeding 15 cm from each other.

Before closing the floor, inspect the bottom for rust, sand it, if necessary patch up with welding and treat with rust mastic. While the mastic is drying, cut out the floor parts from the plywood, cover them with linseed oil 2-3 times, let the linseed oil dry and lay the plywood on the floor. Then roll out the expanded polyethylene foam. On top is another layer of plywood coated with linseed oil. Lay the upper floor on top of the drying oil. It can be linoleum, or sheet steel, depending on what is planned to be transported in the UAZ.

The side walls inside also need renovation. Peel off the old panels, clean the side walls of the body from corrosion, treat with mastic. When the mastic is dry, roll out glass wool for thermal insulation, glue the foam polyethylene on it and sheathe the panels with the selected material on top. It can be plywood, and hardboard, and hardboard with dermantine. You decide.

There are two requirements for a car bumper:

1. Reliability and safety;
2. External appeal, aesthetics.

Ulyanovsk cars are no exception.Car owners of these cars install bumpers with kangarins on the UAZ 469 or “loaves” body, which, on the one hand, add solidity to the car, and on the other, protect the headlights and radiator from damage.

Requirements are made to bumpers and kangarins that they must comply with safety standards, therefore, in order to avoid problems with a valiant car inspection, we purchase suspensions from a trusted manufacturer.

like that, they didn't want to put a new frame and decided to cook

UAZ 452 1984, gasoline engine 2.4 l., 75 l. sec., four-wheel drive, manual transmission - body repair

What is that Christmas tree rubber you have?

What did you clean the frame with? Grinder or sandblasting? Now I want to do the frame

no, you don’t understand, primer with a brush, anti-gravel with bolons, Mastic with a brush

Why didn't you completely overlap the frame, but cut it out for fastening the spring?

on and then the pillows will shift, the resors would not have taken

Here I have just around the pillow and rusted, I don't know how to close it up ...

Rotten through and through, two holes in front of the fasteners.

cut out the rot, insert a new piece of metal and cook, and put the profile in the inside of the frame

So the question is how to rivet the fasteners ... I want to weld the channel from the inside and strengthen it

Well, what's the problem, you do it on the pillow bolts and that's it

published with permission of the author, source>

Well .. at first I went by car to all kinds of picnics, shalyki, fishing. Everything was great, if not for some points:

• not everywhere you can go (good places are usually inaccessible for ordinary cars)
• where you can go - there are already whole hordes of vacationers with all the attendant
• you won't load too much
• after almost every trip there was a bill from the service for certain details, a special inconvenience was represented by bushes that scratched the car and its appearance was ditched specifically

I read forums and all kinds of reviews. I decided to buy a booze, tk. a large volume was required, I didn't really want to bang money into this venture, and in general, I did not know what the hell I needed all this for.

I searched for a long time, found on an ad for 1500 ye in Fryazino the necessary loaf “ideally and not rotten” :).
There was no question about the goat, tk. the car was supposed to be made for an expeditionary campaign with a bunch of junk on board.

At that time, there was no way to participate in the competition. Trips to nature with all that it implies. From 1 to 3 days.

Now trips from 3 to 20 days are a normal scenario.

With you, if necessary, take a satellite dish and a TV 🙂 So that it is not boring in the evening / at night 🙂

When I drove in and began to figure it out, a diagnosis was made - a complete overcooking. Moreover, I wanted to leave it on a standard loaf of rubber.

Then 35x12.5x15 wheels and disks turned up under the arm, and the task expanded beyond recognition. Looking ahead, if I had known how it would all end, I probably would not have taken it.

On vehicles of the UAZ-3151 and UAZ-3741 families with a four-point engine mount, as well as all models based on them, a frame of three types was installed. All frames are welded and consist of two box spars of variable cross-section, interconnected by cross members.

One of the crossbars, for the convenience of installing and removing the engine and the gearbox assembly with the transfer case, is made removable and bolted to the brackets welded to the frame side members. The rest of the cross members are welded to the side members. Brackets for springs, shock absorbers, power unit supports and body mounts are attached to the side members.

The frame of cars of the UAZ-3151 and UAZ-31512 families has a second removable cross member. All brackets installed on the frame, except for two brackets for fixing the fixed ends of the front springs, are welded by welding. The brackets for fixing the fixed ends of the front springs are riveted to the frame side members.

The front bumper is attached to the front ends of the side members with six bolts, and on the upper flanges of the side members there are tow hooks and, on some vehicles, a protective bar.A double-acting towing device is attached to the rear cross member of the frame with four bolts. Two rear bumpers made of 65G spring steel, 4 mm thick, are attached to the rear cross member and the ends of the side members on both sides of the towing device.

The frame of the UAZ-3741 van has a third removable cross member. The spring attachment brackets are riveted to the frame side members and towing hooks at the bottom of the front ends of the frame side members. The rest of the brackets are welded to the frame.

At the front ends of the frame side members, brackets are welded to which the bumper is attached. The rear bumper is in two parts and is mounted on brackets welded to the rear ends of the frame side members. On the fifth cross member of the frame, the spare wheel suspension brackets are bolted.

On the last cross member of the frame, a rigid towing device is fixed with four bolts, on both sides of which the footrest brackets are welded to the cross member of the frame. The frame of the UAZ-3741 vehicle is also installed on vehicles of the UAZ-3962 and UAZ-2206 families.

The frame of trucks of the UA3-3303 family is not interchangeable with the frame of vehicles based on the UAZ-3741 and differs from it in the shortened rear ends of the side members, the absence of a rear bumper and footrest brackets, a spare wheel bracket and brackets for fastening the side platform.

The towing device of UAZ-3151 cars is of double-acting, closed type, equipped with a rubber elastic element that softens shock loads when operating a car with a trailer. The towing hook is equipped with a latch that closes its mouth and is locked in the closed position with a "pawl" under the action of a spring. To eliminate spontaneous disengagement of the trailer drawbar with a hook, the "pawl" in the latch is locked with a cotter pin.

In a variant version, a rigid towing device without an elastic element is installed on vehicles UAZ-31512, UAZ-31514 and UAZ-31519, designed for short-term towing of a trailer.

A rigid towing device is installed on the UAZ-3741, UAZ-3962 and UAZ-2206 wagon-type utility vehicles, which is not designed for long-term operation with a trailer. On the frame of the UAZ-3303 truck, along with a rigid towing device, a double-acting towing device with an elastic element can also be installed.

At the next maintenance it is necessary to clean the frame from dirt and by external inspection check the condition of its side members, cross members, brackets, welded and riveted joints. If necessary, tighten the bolts for the bumpers, removable cross member, towbar and engine mudguards. Pay particular attention to the left side member in the area where the steering housing is attached and the first frame cross member.

With systematic overloading of the car or in the event of an accident, distortions, bends, cracks and other damage may appear in some places of the frame, requiring its repair. It is also possible that the riveted connection of the spring brackets is loosened. Before repairing, you must clean the frame from dirt, carefully inspect it and identify all damage.

It is carried out in a cold state, guided by the original dimensions of the frame. The difference between dimensions A and B indicated in the diagram below should not exceed 5 mm. After straightening the frame of cars of the UAZ-3151 family, it is necessary to check the perpendicularity of the axis of the spring brackets to the vertical plane of the frame and the adherence of the steering gear housing to the spar at three points of its attachment.

In the frame of cars of the carriage layout of the UAZ-3741 family, after straightening it, it is necessary to check the position of the upper end of the steering shaft. After fixing the steering housing to the frame bracket, the distance from the longitudinal axis of the vehicle to the axis of the upper end of the steering shaft should be within 518 + -7.5 mm.

Cracks in the frame parts are welded with electric arc welding. Before welding, the edges of the cracks are chamfered at an angle of 60 degrees.If there are long cracks on the longitudinal beams and crossbeams, a reinforcement is additionally welded on, superimposed on the welded section. The amplifier fits tightly to the surface of the damaged area. The crack weld is cleaned flush with the surface before the reinforcement is welded.

The reinforcement can be welded to the frame both from the inside and from the outside, depending on the location of the crack and the ease of doing the work. It is not recommended to weld the reinforcement with a welded seam running across the longitudinal beam, especially in the vertical direction, since such a seam weakens it and creates the possibility of frame breakage at this point. For greater strength of the frame and weld, it is advisable to make it at an angle of 45 degrees.

The reliability of the riveted joints of the frame is checked by tapping them with a hammer. Loose rivets generate a rattling sound when tapped. If a loosening of the rivet joint of the spring brackets is detected, the loose rivets are cut off and replaced with new ones. In this case, the holes for the rivets are drilled out and rivets of a larger diameter are installed instead of the old ones.

Before replacing the rivets in the reinforcement of the longitudinal beam, a technological window is cut out opposite the bracket to access the rivets from the inner side of the longitudinal beam; after riveting, the window is welded. The fit of the rivet head to the surface of the part must be complete. If it is impossible to repair the rivet joint, the rivets can be replaced with bolts and nuts.

During the maintenance of the car, it is necessary to check the condition of the latch and the pawl of the towing device, the reliability of the closing of the hook mouth, and, if necessary, lubricate the axles. In towing equipment with elastic element, check the presence of grease under the hood and add it if necessary.

During operation of the towing device, longitudinal movement of the hook in the hull may appear. If there is such a movement, it is necessary to tighten the thrust nut of the hook, having previously compressed the elastic element. The thrust nut is tightened in such a way that the assembled hook rotates freely around its axis, but without any tangible axial movement in the body. Towing device repair consists in replacing worn and damaged parts. Straightening of bent hook and latch parts is not allowed.

UAZ 3741 - This is a four-wheel drive domestic utility vehicle, which in Soviet times was produced under the UAZ 452 index and for its characteristic body shape is called "Loaf". In the factory configuration, the car has an all-metal body, as well as a leaf spring suspension and two drive axles with non-locking differentials that transmit power to all four wheels.

Front-wheel drive is plug-in, rear-wheel drive is permanent. The bridges are unified with the 31512 model. The Loaf's carrying capacity is 850 kg. The ground clearance is 22 cm. Repair of the front axle 3741 is extremely rare, since its design is quite reliable. Basically, the repair comes down to replacing the wheel bearings, as well as the oil in the differential, pivots and ball bearings. However, sometimes it is still necessary to remove the bridge. You have to do this yourself, since UAZ service centers do not work everywhere.

Since the UAZ 3741 has a frame structure, the front axle can be removed quite easily. To do this, you need to stock up on a powerful jack, stops that can withstand 1.5 tons of the front of the car, and WD-40 - liquid for unscrewing the nuts.

The procedure is as follows:

1. First, you need to install stops under the rear wheels of the car.
2. After that, disconnect the left and right brake pipes from the hoses that go to the front wheel drums.
3. Then you need to unscrew the nuts securing the brake hoses and remove the hoses themselves.
4. Next, unscrew the nuts securing the lower ends of the shock absorbers.
5. Remove the bolts connecting the pinion flange c. front cardan.
6. Then you should unpin the cotter pin, unscrew the nut of the ball pin of the bipod.
7. Disconnect the link from the bipod.
8. Unscrew the nuts that secure the ladders of the front springs, and remove the ladders with pads and linings.
9. At the end, you need to lift the front of the car by the frame and pull the bridge out from under the car.

When the old bridge has been removed, you can proceed to the installation of the new part by performing the reverse procedure. If necessary, the removed unit is disassembled, its troubleshooting is carried out, damaged parts are replaced, and then the bridge is returned to its place.

Most often, the cause of inadequate behavior of the car on the road is a violation of the axial clearance of the pivots. It is very simple to check its violation - you just need to raise the front end with a jack and shake the wheel up and down. When axial play is detected, the pivot clearance needs to be adjusted.

Adjustment steps:

1. We lift in front of the car, after placing the car on the handbrake.
2. We dismantle the wheel.
3. We unscrew the ball bolts securing the oil seal.
4. We check the axial play by swinging the structure up and down.
5. We unscrew a few bolts of the upper lining of the king pin and remove the lining.
6. We take out the thinnest gasket, put the pad back.
7. We carry out the same actions with the lower pad of the king pin.
8. We tighten the bolts and check the result. When the backlash is eliminated, we screw the wheel and the oil seal back - and we go. If there is still play, adjust it again by removing the thicker spacers.

from the book by E.N. Orlova and E.R. Varchenko "UAZ cars" maintenance and repair of UAZ

Device. Three types of frames are installed on UAZ vehicles. The frames are welded and consist of two spars connected by cross members. One of the cross-members for easy installation and removal of the engine is made removable and bolted to the brackets welded to the frame side members. The rest of the cross members are welded to the side members by electric arc welding.

Frame of commercial vehicles UAZ-3151 and UAZ-31512 have a second removable cross member. All brackets mounted on the frame, except for two brackets for fixing the fixed ends of the front springs, are welded by electric arc welding. The brackets for fixing the fixed ends of the front springs are riveted to the frame side members. The front bumper is attached to the front ends of the side members with six bolts, and the tow hooks are attached to the upper flanges of the side members. A double-sided closed towing device equipped with a rubber elastic element is attached to the rear cross member of the frame with four bolts. In a variant version, a rigid device without an elastic element is installed on UAZ-31512 vehicles, designed for short-term towing of a trailer. Two rear bumpers in 65G spring steel, 4 mm thick, are attached to the rear cross member and the ends of the side members on both sides of the towbar.

Rice. 125. The main dimensions of the frame of utility vehicles

Frame of the UAZ-3741 van has a third removable cross member. The spring mounting brackets are riveted to the frame side members and towing hooks at the front ends of the side members from below. The rest of the brackets are welded to the frame with an electric arc wire.

At the front ends of the frame side members, brackets are welded to which the bumper is attached. The rear bumper is in two parts and is mounted on brackets welded to the rear ends of the frame side members. On the fifth cross member of the frame, the spare wheel suspension brackets are bolted. On the last cross member of the frame, a rigid towing device is fixed with four bolts, on both sides of which the footrest brackets are welded to the cross member of the frame.

The frame of the UAZ-3741 vehicle is also installed on the UAZ-3962 and UAZ-2206 vehicles.

Rice. 126. The main dimensions of the frame of cars of the wagon layout

Frame of the UAZ-3303 truck not interchangeable with the UAZ-3741 car frame and differs from it in the shortened rear ends of the side members, the absence of a rear bumper and footrest brackets,spare wheel mounting bracket and side platform mounting brackets.
On the frame of the UAZ-3303, along with a rigid towing device, a double-acting towing device with an elastic element can be installed.

Maintenance. For TO-2 perform the following operations:
clean the frame from dirt and by visual inspection check the condition of the longitudinal beams, cross members, brackets, welded and riveted joints. Check and, if necessary, tighten the bolts of the bumpers, the second cross member, the towbar and the engine mudguards. Pay particular attention to the left side member in the area where the steering housing is attached and the first frame member. Check the condition of the painted surface, paint places with a damaged layer of paint;
Check the condition of the latch and pawl of the towing device, the tightness of the hook mouth, if necessary, lubricate the axles according to the lubrication chart. In towing equipment with an elastic element, check for the presence of grease under the cap, if necessary add it according to the grease chart and check the ease of rotation of the hook around its axis without any noticeable movement in the body. Retighten the hook support nut if there is a noticeable movement.

Repair. When the vehicle is overloaded and in the event of an accident, distortions, bends, cracks and other damage may appear in some parts of the frame, requiring frame repair. Loosening of the riveted joint of the spring brackets is also possible.
Before repairing, clean the frame from dirt, carefully inspect it and identify any damage. Edit the frame in a cold state, guided by the dimensions shown in fig. 125 and 126. The difference between dimensions A and B should not exceed 5 mm. After straightening the frame of commercial vehicles, check the perpendicularity of the axis of the spring brackets to the vertical plane of the frame and the adherence of the steering box to the spar at three points of its attachment. In the frame of cars of the carriage layout, after straightening, check the position of the upper end of the steering shaft. After fixing the steering box housing to the frame bracket, the distance from the longitudinal axis of the vehicle to the axis of the upper end of the steering shaft should be (518 ± 7.5) mm.

Weld up cracks in frame parts with electric arc welding. Before welding, chamfer the edges of the cracks at an angle of 60 °. If there are large cracks on the longitudinal beams and crossbeams, additionally weld the reinforcement applied to the welded section. Fit the amplifier tightly to the surface of the damaged area. Before welding the reinforcement, clean the weld seam of the crack flush with the surface. The amplifier can be welded both from the inside and from the outside, depending on the location of the crack and the ease of doing the work. It is not recommended to weld the reinforcement with a welded seam running across the longitudinal beam, especially in the vertical direction, since such a seam weakens it and creates the possibility of frame breakage at this point. For greater frame strength and weld seam, make it at a 45 ° angle

Check the reliability of riveted joints by tapping them with a hammer. Loose rivets generate a rattling sound when tapped. If you find a loosening of the rivet joint of the spring brackets, cut off the loose rivets and replace them with new ones. At the same time, drill out the holes for the rivets and put the rivets of a larger diameter. Before that, cut out a window in the reinforcement of the longitudinal beam opposite the bracket to access the rivets from the inside of the longitudinal beam, and after riveting, weld the window. The fit of the rivet head to the surface of the part must be complete. If it is impossible to repair the rivet joint, the rivets can be replaced with bolts and nuts.

Towing device repair consists in replacing worn and damaged parts. Straightening of bent hook and latch parts is not allowed.
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