DIY vaz 2101 camshaft repair

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of a vaz 2101 camshaft from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

After buying his "Kopeyka", he began to slowly repair it and first of all proceeded to check the engine, as he rattled badly. The previous owner said that the valve was burned out, but after removing the valve cover, it turned out that the reason was somewhat more serious. Here's what I saw after removing the valve cover:

As you can see, the camshaft housing was broken and a piece was lying in the head from above. Moreover, a rocker with a spring was lying nearby in the same heap. It is not surprising that the previous owner of the VAZ 2101 thought that the valve was burned out, since the symptoms are similar - one cylinder did not work. Below I will tell you in more detail about the repair of a VAZ 2101-2107 with similar problems.

So the first thing I did was go and buy another camshaft from a guy. Of course I didn't count on a new one, but as it turned out in vain. This guy took out a camshaft, wrapped in paper since the days of the USSR. And together with him he gave a set of rockers. For this purchase, I gave him 750 rubles. Although in the store, these new parts cost at least 2,000 rubles.

First of all, we remove the valve cover by unscrewing all its fastening nuts with a 10 key, after which we get the following picture:

Now you need to bend the washer under the camshaft sprocket nut with a flat screwdriver:

And unscrew the nut with a 17 wrench, as shown in the photo below:

Now we unscrew the timing chain tensioner bolt, which is located on the front side on the right:

Once the chain is loosened, you can gently knock on the inside of the chainring to make it slide off:

Next, you can start unscrewing the nuts securing the camshaft cover on the VAZ 2101-2107, as shown in the photo below:

Video (click to play).

And then you can remove the housing together with the engine camshaft by simply grabbing it and pulling it up with a certain force:

The final result of the work can be seen in the picture below:

Now we take new rockers and install them instead of the old ones. This is necessary, since the old ones already have production and it will be quite problematic to adjust the valves, and you can not get rid of the knocking at all. Rockers change quite simply. It is necessary to lift it all the way up and it can be removed without problems:

It is also advisable to replace the springs, since they cost a penny, only 3 rubles apiece. New rockers are installed without any sequence. If you install the old ones, then they need to be put in the same order in which they stood.

Then we take a new 2101-2107 camshaft assembly and install it on the cylinder head, after which we tighten the nuts with a torque wrench:

It is worth tightening them in a strictly defined sequence, as shown in the diagram:

A force of 18 to 21 Nm is required. Do not exceed the specified range of values, as you may damage the threads. After installation, we put back a star with a chain and be sure to adjust the valves on the VAZ 2101-07

We start the engine and check how everything works, and, if necessary, adjust the valves again! I succeeded on the first try and quite successfully, the motor now works as it should.

One of the key parts of an internal combustion engine is the camshaft. Over time, development appears on it and on the support bearings and the motor requires qualified intervention. The VAZ 2107 camshaft can be replaced by yourself. This will require a set of plumbing tools and knowledge about the features of setting the gas distribution mechanism.

The VAZ 2107 camshaft (injector and carburetor) synchronizes the operation of the intake and exhaust valves with the position of the pistons in the engine cylinders. It opens the exhaust valves to release the exhaust gases and the intake valves to fill the combustion chambers with an air / fuel mixture.
The "seven" uses an overhead camshaft engine layout. This reduces the cost of construction and makes the maintenance process easier.
The camshaft of the VAZ 2107 is connected to the crankshaft of the engine by means of a chain driven by an asterisk.
During the rotation of the camshaft, the cams located on it press the rocker and open (close) the valves at the right time.
Support journals of the camshaft rotate in the bearings of the "bed" installed in the engine head. Through the oil channels, lubrication from the oil pump is supplied to them, therefore the condition of the camshaft affects the pressure in the engine lubrication system.

The main reason for checking the condition of the VAZ 2107 camshaft is the appearance of a characteristic knock in the head during engine operation. There may be several reasons:

wear of camshaft cams;
wear of the support bearings of the camshaft or bed necks;
deformation of the part as a result of overheating;
the appearance of a crack on the support of the part;
fracture of the camshaft;
lack of oil or weak pressure in the engine lubrication system;
clogged oil channels
poor quality oil.

In the event of a wear or cracks in the camshaft, the part must be replaced with a new one. But first, it is worth localizing the malfunction by removing the camshaft and examining its condition.

Replacing the VAZ 2107 camshaft begins with its dismantling. To do this, you need to perform the following actions:

If there are signs of wear on the camshaft journals or cams, the camshaft needs to be replaced. It also needs to be changed when cracks or deformation appear.
Sometimes the cause of knocking can be due to wear on the camshaft housing bearings. In this case, it is sufficient to replace only the bed.

Installation of the cylinder head camshaft is carried out in the reverse order of removal. Before installing the part in the housing, lubricate the bearing journals with engine oil.
When assembling, there are two important points to pay attention to:

correspondence of the mark on the camshaft and on the sprockets of its drive;
tightening torque of the camshaft housing nuts.

First, the camshaft nuts must be properly tightened. The nominal tightening torque of the nuts is 2.2 kgf • m. It is impossible to tighten the fastener immediately with such a moment. The VAZ 2107 camshaft is tightened in three to four stages so that the body is pressed evenly, without distortions. Tighten the nuts from the center to the outside in accordance with the tightening chart (see figure).

When the camshaft is installed, it is necessary to set its position relative to the crankshaft. There are marks on the camshaft bed, the front engine cover and the crankshaft and camshaft sprockets, which should be guided by.
Even if the drive chain has been securely tied to the sprocket, when installing the camshaft, make sure that its position matches the position of the engine crankshaft. To correctly set the marks on the VAZ 2107 camshaft, you must perform the following actions:

make sure that the mark on the crankshaft pulley is located opposite the long mark on the front cover of the engine (this corresponds to the top dead center of the fourth cylinder);
install an asterisk on the camshaft and make sure that the mark on it matches the mark on the "bed";
put the chain on the sprockets without disturbing the position of the shafts;
make sure that when the chain is taut, the marks match;
tighten the camshaft sprocket mounting bolt;
turn the crankshaft with a wrench two turns;
check the coincidence of the marks on the camshaft and crankshaft;
if necessary, change the position of the chain on the camshaft sprocket;
tighten the camshaft sprocket bolt and cotter the lock washer.

After that, it remains only to adjust the chain tension using the tensioner and complete the assembly by installing the cylinder head cover and other parts.

First of all, we remove the valve cover by unscrewing all its fastening nuts with a 10 key, after which this picture is obtained.

Now you need to bend the washer under the camshaft sprocket nut with a flat screwdriver.

Unscrew the nut with a 17 wrench.

Now we unscrew the timing chain tensioner bolt, which is located on the front side on the right.

Once the chain has been loosened, you can gently knock on the inside of the chainring to make it slide off.

Next, you can start unscrewing the nuts securing the camshaft cover on the VAZ 2101-2107, as shown in the photo below.

And then you can remove the housing along with the engine camshaft by simply grabbing it and pulling it up with a certain force.

The final result of the work can be seen in the picture below.

Then we take a new 2101-2107 camshaft assembly and install it on the cylinder head, after which we tighten the nuts with a torque wrench.

It is worth tightening them in a strictly defined sequence, as shown in the diagram. It is necessary to apply a force of 18 to 21 Nm. Do not exceed the specified range of values, as you may damage the threads.

This photo report shows in detail how to do it yourself replacement of the camshaft together with the housing for VAZ 2101-2107 (classic). In our case, one cylinder did not work for the machine, suspicion immediately fell on a faulty valve, but after you opened the block, you saw a damaged camshaft housing, namely a knocked out piece, and there was also a roller with a spring nearby. So we stocked up on new parts and started.

For repairs, we need a standard set of tools that are in a standard garage.

Replacing the camshaft with a VAZ 2106 may be required for various reasons, but before proceeding to this process, you need to have an idea of the purpose of this unit. The camshaft is the main timing link and takes part in the combustion of the combustible mixture.

The camshaft is located at the top of the cylinder head. The crankshaft is connected to a pulley or toothed sprocket by means of a belt or chain drive.

VAZ 2106 car near the reservoir

The camshaft on the VAZ 2106 model is rarely dismantled. Usually during repair or disassembly. Sometimes to replace it.

First, let's talk a little about the signs that indicate that the camshaft is faulty, its necks or beds are worn out. It is difficult to establish whether the shaft or something else is knocking in the VAZ 2106 engine, but it is possible. The knock of the camshaft is dull and audible. As the engine speed increases, the knocking becomes more frequent.

Some drivers detect knocking at this knot with a stethoscope or a stick through the valve cover. But often, it is difficult for an inexperienced driver to do this. As a result, the best way to diagnose a camshaft is to remove it, wash it and inspect it.

If the camshaft is defective, the following symptoms may occur:

a thud, reminiscent of hammer blows;
the inability to adjust the valve clearances, while turning the crankshaft, the camshaft is constantly in different positions.

This video shows how longitudinal camshaft runout can be eliminated.

The most reliable method for diagnosing problems with the VAZ 2106 camshaft is to dismantle it from the car and flush it.It can be washed in gasoline or other cleaning liquid. Next, you need to hold the shaft to hit the bed, when you hear the slightest knocks, set the wear of the mechanism. Be sure to make sure that the shaft does not move in bed, as it will make a dull thump when hitting the stopper.

The camshaft has a large effect on the pressure in the lubrication system. If the gaps between the bed and the camshaft are large, then the pressure will be low, and as a result, unsatisfactory lubrication of other parts.

The main faults, due to which it becomes necessary to replace the camshaft, are its wear, the appearance of various seizures and grooves on the bearing journals. Likewise, replacing the camshaft is necessary if it is found to be deformed or cracked. When such malfunctions occur, the power unit loses power, and likewise begins to function intermittently. Camshaft problems are identified by a knock in the cylinder head.

Read also: DIY wiper blade repair

The camshaft on the "six" is rarely removed. In addition to the above reasons for replacing and reconfiguring the power unit. After that, you can notice a significant increase in power, as in a sports car.

The work of removing the crankshaft on a VAZ 2106 is somewhat laborious, but it is within the power of a driver with little experience. For work, we do not need special equipment or special tools.

set of heads;
ratchet;
crank;
extension;
a set of keys;
rags.

Bolt Tightening Wrenches

To get to the crankshaft, you first need to dismantle the air filter with the housing.
Next, we disconnect the suction cable.
Gas damper drive.
Clean and wash the valve cover well. It usually collects dust and dirt, otherwise they can get inside the motor.
Now you need to unscrew all the nuts and remove the valve cover. Experts recommend, when removing the valve cover, be sure to replace the gasket. When buying, buy a rubber-crusty one, as it retains oil much better than a rubber one.
After removing the cover, we get access to the camshaft, in most cases it is very dirty.
Now you need to loosen the camshaft sprocket fasteners. To prevent the motor from turning, insert a screwdriver between the sprocket and the chain.
Important! Be sure to align the mark on the crankshaft and camshaft sprocket. It is necessary to strive to make sure that the mark on the crankshaft pulley should be against the long mark, and the mark on the camshaft sprocket against the protrusion on the camshaft bed.
After alignment, proceed to remove the chain tensioner.
Unscrew the nuts with the key.
We remove the tensioner.
Remove the star that is on the guide pin.
After unscrewing the bolt securing the sprocket, remove the sprocket. A hammer may be needed here.
We tie it to the chain.
Now you need to unscrew the nuts securing the crankshaft and remove it.
By the way, it will be noted that if there was a turning out of a stud with a nut, then it is screwed back with a special hairpin turner.
Next, we inspect the camshaft, change it if necessary.
The shaft is clamped according to the diagram. The tightening order must be observed. The tightening torque is also important. On a VAZ 2106 car, the tightening torque is 18.3 N / m.
When assembling, be sure to check how correctly the marks are aligned. If they are lost, then they need to be set correctly.
Finally, adjust the tension of the chain and valves.

If you still have questions and do not understand how the installation is carried out, with what moment the tightening is performed or how to set the tags, then after reading, watch the video we offer.

This video shows how to properly remove and install the camshaft, replace rockers, springs and other shaft assemblies on a VAZ 2106 car. And also with what torque is tightening.

VAZ 2101.I replaced the camshaft and the rocker, after assembly and adjustment there was a knock in the area from 3 to 6 valves (knock is clear, uniform… it increases with speed, but does not increase during warming up), therefore, the question is, what could it be? It’s just that the details haven’t been splashed yet? Or is it a factory defect of spare parts? Anyone who has come across and knows how to solve this problem, please respond!

If everything is adjusted, then there is only distribution in bed.

Went out for a smoke, raised this topic with a friend ... he says that it should be like this for several hundred until the parts are slapped, but if after a certain mileage and subsequent adjustment, the knock remains, then the alarm should be sounded

a good knock on the gun will come out.

if the rockers are new, the distribution is new, what is there to slap on?

more specifically, I will wait when I get used to it and if the mileage of the problem does not fix I will go to the store with complaints

And the store has something to do with it? The manual says that the camshaft is matched to the pastel.

well, in general, I bought a camshaft already assembled with pastel

Do you think they are assembled from the factory? I saw how they are “collected” right behind the counter;)

at least the initial inspection of the shaft did not give any longitudinal and transverse backlash, there are no scratches in the pastel, scuffs and other things, both on the shaft itself

1. Pastel [-te-] (from Lat. Pasta - dough) - a group of artistic materials used in graphics and painting (according to the modern museum classification, work with pastels on paper refers to graphics).
2. And how did you measure the gaps between the journals PB and the bearing housing PB (it is the “bed”)?
The problem is that the spare part often gets substandard for one reason or another that has not passed to the conveyor.
I repeat: I watched them collect right behind the counter. They take the first ones they come across, oops - they don't climb, try another, climb, don't feel the loofah from the hand - on the counter ...
I do not claim that this is the case everywhere, but quite often.

I will not argue, maybe I got into such garbage (I think all the same, try to roll it out, maybe it will take it out ... because specifically here, no one said anyway, there should be a ringing tone for the new switchgear or not.
py.sy sori for illiteracy - it happens)

solved the problem with distribution and rockers? I, too, got the switchgear 21213 with pastels in the collection of backlashes, too, but there is no rocker with springs, but a rocker with springs can make such a sound like a diesel engine has already left about 10,000 thousand and thunders more leaning towards rockers and springs, probably they are substandard, i.e. the preload of the springs is not the same I also tried another rocker with a small head from a VAZ 21213 Niva and springs, I think I still have another shaft to buy without pastels, the knock disappears only when the gap in the valve is done, that is, you press the valve more than it should be, but it’s not for long after you give it to burn and everything repeats again, by the way, the car doesn’t thunders under load and gas release and starts to thunder when you go in economy mode, that is, you drive 3000-3500 rpm, you release the gas pedal a little, in this mode, and the rustle of the roar of the rockers of the rockers begins, they seem to hang, maybe try to lift one rocker with your hand and abruptly let it go and you will hear a familiar knock during the engine cycle if you have solved the problem, answer

And look at your pump, I also had a knock in the valve train, they listened with a stethoscope and came to the conclusion that it was the pastel that had died, but after replacing the pastel, the camshaft, rockers and soldiers, the knock did not disappear. Then I decided to remove the alternator belt and started the car, the knocking disappeared, I started turning the alternator with my hand, then the pump, the pump was on its last legs, i.e. when it turned, a quiet knock of the bearing became audible and there was a backlash, only it was strange that it did not flow. after replacing the pump, the knock disappeared. That's how I threw 650 UAH on the camshaft. it’s good that I didn’t pay for the work.

the pump and the gene intact, this was installed even with the capital, but then there was not enough money, therefore, the replacement of the RV was postponed until later

Greetings! two weeks ago I capitalized my head on my penny, because of a broken valve guide, well, I installed a new camshaft, rocker, adjusting bolts, adjusted the valves, start the car and the valves rumble, let's adjust it again, and it turns out that the gap on all the rockers, disappeared, or clamped, or twice the gap, what could be the matter? How did you solve this problem on your own? please tell me.

I drove 700-800 kilometers like on a tractor, set the gaps on a new one ... Now all the rules. I think this is a break-in.

Roker, You just don't need to change to light ones!

The quietest, not ringing ones are those that were black!

The guys faced a bit of a similar problem after the capital of the head, but the knock of the rockers was heard around 3000 thousand rpm, that is, you turn the engine in 3rd gear up to 3000 rpm. you just let go of the slippers and then such a knock begins as if there are no springs on the rockers at all, who has any thoughts on this problem, everything new has been tested for backlash and clearances, but the knock manifests itself again in the region of 3000 tob when you stop giving the engine a load and when loaded or when in general, you let go of the gazulka all the rules.

I have the same bullshit, fuck *** already. and not only by 3000, but in the region from 2000 to 3500, when the gas is released a little. It happened after the capital, after about 500 km. But now I've hit 20,000 thousand, and the problem has not gone anywhere.
Have you figured it out?

Sometimes there comes a moment when you have to look under the valve cover in order to eliminate those unpleasant knocks that manifest themselves in almost all engine operating modes by adjusting them and tensioning the chain. And during the adjustment itself, the probe on one side of the rocker passes freely, and on the other side it clamps it. All these signs indirectly indicate that, most likely, your camshaft needs to be replaced. To be convinced of this, it is necessary to remove the camshaft and defect it and the valve levers (rocker) working in tandem with it, as well as the camshaft bed itself.

Replacing the camshaft VAZ 2101-07

To replace the VAZ 2101-07 camshaft, we perform the following operations with the engine. We turn off the mass, and if there is none, remove the terminal from the battery. Remove the valve cover after removing the air filter housing and the suction cable. We expose the engine adjusting marks.

After making sure that the marks on the crankshaft and camshaft match, we continue further disassembly. We fix the camshaft sprocket with a large screwdriver, unscrew the bolt of its fastening and remove the sprocket along with the chain. We also remove the rockers that have opened to us, folding them in order. If they are in working order, we will leave them for further work. Having removed the bed, we unscrew the semicircular sector that fixes the camshaft and take it out of bed. We carefully inspect the shaft and the camshaft bed itself. If we see even visually traces of wear, then the camshaft and bed must be replaced.

Usually, during this operation, all elements of the VAZ camshaft are changed. We install new parts, assemble everything in reverse order, adjust the valve, chain tension. We close the valve cover, install the suction cable in place, put the terminal on the battery and start the engine. Good luck!

First of all, we remove the valve cover by unscrewing all its fastening nuts with a 10 key, after which we get the following picture:

Now you need to bend the washer under the camshaft sprocket nut with a flat screwdriver:

And unscrew the nut with a 17 wrench, as shown in the photo below:

Now we unscrew the timing chain tensioner bolt, which is located on the front side on the right:

Once the chain is loosened, you can gently knock on the inside of the chainring to make it slide off:

Next, you can start unscrewing the nuts securing the camshaft cover on the VAZ 2101-2107, as shown in the photo below:

And then you can remove the housing together with the engine camshaft by simply grabbing it and pulling it up with a certain force:

The final result of the work can be seen in the picture below:

Then we take a new 2101-2107 camshaft assembly and install it on the cylinder head, after which we tighten the nuts with a torque wrench:

It is worth tightening them in a strictly defined sequence, as shown in the diagram:

We start the engine and check how everything works, and, if necessary, adjust the valves again! I succeeded on the first try and quite successfully, the motor now works as it should.

Camshaft or (camshaft) is the main element of the gas distribution mechanism (timing). which serves to ensure the combustion of the combustible mixture in the combustion chamber and timely intake of air and exhaust of exhaust gases. The cam is located at the top of the cylinder head (cylinder head) and is connected to the crankshaft pulley or sprocket using a timing belt or chain.

The main faults requiring replacement of the camshaft or repair are wear, scuffing and scratches on the camshaft journal journals, as well as deflection or cracking of the camshaft. With these malfunctions, the engine loses power, and also begins to run unstably. Camshaft wear is often accompanied by a characteristic knock in the cylinder head area.

In addition, the replacement of the camshaft can be carried out if it is necessary to reconfigure and tune the engine, after which a significant increase in power is observed.

Today's article will focus on how to replace the camshaft with your own hands on the car VAZ 2107, VAZ 2106.

1. The first step is to remove the cylinder head valve cover.

2. Then turn the camshaft to the end of the compression stroke of the 4th cylinder.

3. Using a wrench at “13”, release the chain tensioner slightly. Leaning the assembly against the tensioner shoe, squeeze the tensioner rod and fix it in this position by tightening the chain tensioner nut. If necessary, remove the tensioner completely.

4. Bend the camshaft sprocket retaining bolt lock washer using a screwdriver.

5.Lock the camshaft by turning on the 4th speed, this will save you from cranking it.

6. Using a wrench “17”, unscrew the sprocket mounting bolt.

7. Remove the camshaft fixing bolt with washers and a sprocket with a chain, put it all in the recess of the cylinder head. This will prevent the chain from skipping.

8. Now take the key to “13” and unscrew the 9 securing nuts of the camshaft bed.

9. Remove the camshaft from the studs together with the “bed”.

10. Unscrew the two bolts securing the thrust flange using a “10” wrench, then remove the flange itself.

11. While lifting the cam, release it from the spring pressure and remove the cam itself.

12. Get the camshaft out of the “bed”.

13. You can now remove the cam spring.

That's actually the whole disassembly. Replacing the camshaft ends with assembly, the installation of a new camshaft is carried out in the reverse order.

Important! The tightening of the “bed” fastening nuts should be done in strict sequence, in the order shown in the figure.

I think all owners of a Vaz-2121 with 1.6l engines will be interested in installing a Niva camshaft (213) on a 2106 engine.
I remember not long ago an acquaintance on the Vaz-2107, put the Nivsky on the sixth engine (1.6), which he boasted about driving faster.

I would like to know.
1. Will there be an increase in engine power (dynamics, traction, consumption, etc.).
2. Does it require replacement of the springs?
3. No one has conjured with a split gear with this camshaft, there are positive results.

Would be a good (budget) alternative instead of a grassroots camshaft. (until I save up on the grassroots)

Who put your experience to share!

Captain

Captain
Messages: 11235
Joined: 02 Dec 2009 22:39
Location: Omsk
Car: 8 years old was 212182, now 1118
Name: Alexander
Gender: Male

tatarin545. For some reason, PB 21213 is considered a horse for the engine 2106. I put it on when I drove on 2121, left my own star, 2101, crawled on the snow better (oddly enough!), The dip in the range of 2500-3500 rpm disappeared (before after 3500 there was a pickup, he was gone), spun easily up to 6000 rpm. In general, it got better both at the bottom and at the top, I was satisfied (for such and such money!).

As I understand it, replacement of springs and plates or other alterations is not required.

Captain