VIDEO
Be careful with your technique and it will delight you with its work day in and day out.
and does not interfere with life, but I do not like it.
Questions:
opened it! not a single latch was damaged, although there are 6 of them in total 😀
in general, the display is from the drgb-01 dosimeter, which, in particular, was used in the last bombard
(the photo was taken so that the tracks are visible; the flare from the lamp)
from the back it looks like this:
So what do we see?
There is an assumption that the problem may be in the K176ID2
a little pun: removing the case cover, I saw a red LED on the diagram, which lights up when the device is turned on. There is no hole on the lid to see it. So that's it. The diode is there and shines, but no one will see it until the cover is removed.
Ta-a-a-a-k. Found a way out of the situation
what have I done?
the last two questions:
Has dried up. )
The question remains:
Has dried up. )
The question remains:
Conductive varnish is sold on the radio market, you can try to drip a ma-a-a-scarlet drop on (in) contact.
P.S. Not 100% sure what will help. The varnish also dries and shrinks and decreases in volume. In theory, if it gains a foothold on the contacts, it will simply stretch. It is not yet clear how the deposition on glass will behave (in terms of dissolution).
You can try by taking apart some unnecessary watch or calculator (the principle of spraying on glass is the same everywhere)
I restored the indicators a couple of times, albeit without the use of varnish. In my experience, the spraying holds well, unless of course it is scratched. I repeatedly wiped (very intensively) such spraying with alcohol, everything was superb and did not wash off.
Use the same tip of the knife to drive the graphite powder into it.
PS If the LED is not parallel to the power supply, then it could serve to catch bugs.
There the hole into which you propose to “hammer in” something has a width of a fraction of a millimeter. Those. you cannot “hammer” there without destroying the display.
Conductive varnish is sold on the radio market, you can try to drip a ma-a-a-scarlet drop on (in) contact.
P.S. Not 100% sure what will help. The varnish also dries and shrinks and decreases in volume. In theory, if it gains a foothold on the contacts, it will simply stretch. It is not yet clear how the deposition on glass will behave (in terms of dissolution).
You can try by taking apart some unnecessary watch or calculator (the principle of spraying on glass is the same everywhere)
I restored the indicators a couple of times, albeit without the use of varnish. In my experience, the spraying holds well, unless of course it is scratched. I repeatedly wiped (very intensively) such spraying with alcohol, everything was superb and did not wash off.
Soldering is not easier =)
My brother advised me to use some kind of marker used to draw diagrams. What kind of if earlier the boards were varnished and etched, then there are some markers / markers with which you can draw tracks. Now this is closer to the truth - maybe this marker draws with a liquid, which then dries up.
But my brother doesn’t have this marker, so either I’ll wait until he buys it, or I’ll have to bother myself with a visit to the radio market.
Or I take some more advice =) What is needed is a liquid, non-viscous, which can be put there on the tip of the needle, and which either does not dry out, or dries up, without ceasing to be conductive. ))
I divided the malfunctions of LCD monitors into 10 points, but this does not mean that there are only 10 of them - there are many more, including combined and floating ones. Many of the breakdowns of LCD monitors can be repaired by hand or at home.
in general, although the power indicator may be blinking. At the same time, twitching the cable, dancing with a tambourine and other pranks do not help. Tapping the monitor with a nervous hand usually doesn't work either, so don't even try. The reason for such a malfunction of LCD monitors is most often the failure of the power supply board, if it is built into the monitor.
Recently, monitors with an external power source have become fashionable. This is good because the user can simply change the power supply in the event of a breakdown. If there is no external power source, then you will have to disassemble the monitor and look for a malfunction on the board. In most cases, it is not difficult to disassemble an LCD monitor, but you need to remember about safety.
Before fixing the poor fellow, let him stand for 10 minutes, unplugged. During this time, the high-voltage capacitor will have time to discharge. ATTENTION! DANGEROUS TO LIFE if the diode bridge and the PWM transistor burn out! In this case, the high voltage capacitor will not discharge in an acceptable time.
Therefore, EVERYONE before repairing to check the voltage on it! If a dangerous voltage remains, then the capacitor must be manually discharged through an insulated resistor of about 10 kOhm for 10 seconds. If you suddenly decide to close the terminals with a screwdriver, then keep your eyes away from sparks!
Next, we proceed to inspect the monitor power supply board and change all burned-out parts - these are usually swollen capacitors, blown fuses, transistors and other elements. It is also MANDATORY to solder the board or at least inspect the soldering under a microscope for microcracks.
From my own experience I will say - if the monitor is more than 2 years old - then 90% that there will be microcracks in the soldering, especially for LG, BenQ, Acer and Samsung monitors. The cheaper the monitor, the worse it is made at the factory. Up to the point that the active flux is not washed out - which leads to the failure of the monitor after a year or two. Yes, yes, just when the guarantee ends.
when the monitor is turned on. This miracle directly indicates to us a malfunction of the power supply.
Of course, the first step is to check the power and signal cables - they must be securely fastened in the connectors. A blinking image on the monitor tells us that the monitor backlight voltage source is constantly jumping off the operating mode.
The most common reason for this is swollen electrolytic capacitors, microcracks in the solder and a faulty TL431 microcircuit. Swollen capacitors most often cost 820 uF 16 V, they can be replaced with a larger capacity and a higher voltage, for example, the cheapest and most reliable ones are Rubycon 1000 uF 25 V capacitors and Nippon 1500 uF 10 V capacitors. 105 degrees) Nichicon 2200 uF 25 V. Everything else will not last long.
after the time has elapsed or does not turn on immediately. In this case, again, three frequent LCD monitors malfunctions in order of frequency of occurrence - swollen electrolytes, microcracks in the board, faulty TL431 microcircuit.
With this fault, a high-frequency squeak of the backlight transformer can also be heard. It usually operates at frequencies between 30 and 150 kHz. If the mode of its operation is violated, oscillations can occur in the audible frequency range.
but the image is viewed under bright light. This immediately tells us about a malfunction of LCD monitors in terms of the backlight. In terms of the frequency of occurrence, it could be put in third place, but it has already been taken there.
Option two - either the power supply and inverter board burned out, or the backlight lamps are faulty. The latter reason is not common in modern monitors with LED backlighting. If the LEDs are backlit and fail, then only in groups.
In this case, there may be a darkening of the image in places at the edges of the monitor. It is better to start repairs with diagnostics of the power supply and inverter. An inverter is the part of the board that is responsible for the formation of a high-voltage voltage of the order of 1000 volts to power the lamps, so in no case should you try to repair the monitor under voltage. You can read about repairing the Samsung monitor power supply in my blog.
Most monitors are similar in design, so there shouldn't be any problems. At one time, monitors simply rained down with a breakdown in contact near the tip of the backlight. This is treated by the most careful disassembly of the matrix to get to the end of the lamp and solder the high voltage wires.
If the backlight itself burns out, I would suggest replacing it with the LED backlight bar that usually comes with your inverter. If you still have questions - write to me by mail or in the comments.
These are the nastiest LCD monitor malfunctions in the life of any computer technician and user, because they tell us that it's time to buy a new LCD monitor.
Why buy new? Because your pet's matrix is 90% unusable. Vertical stripes appear when the contact of the signal loop with the contacts of the matrix electrodes is broken.
This can only be cured by careful application of anisotropic adhesive tape. Without this anisotropic glue, I had a bad experience repairing a Samsung LCD TV with vertical stripes. You can also read how the Chinese repair such strips on their machines.
An easier way out of this unpleasant situation can be found if your brother-in-law friend has the same monitor lying around, but with faulty electronics. It will not be difficult to blind from two monitors of similar series and the same diagonal.
Sometimes even a power supply unit from a monitor with a larger diagonal can be adapted for a monitor with a smaller diagonal, but such experiments are risky and I do not recommend starting a fire at home. Here in someone else's villa - that's another matter ...
Their presence means that the day before, you or your relatives had a fight with the monitor because of something outrageous.
Unfortunately, household LCD monitors do not provide shockproof coatings and anyone can offend the weak. Yes, any decent poke with a sharp or blunt object into the LCD monitor matrix will make you regret it.
Even if there is a small trace or even one broken pixel, over time, the spot will begin to grow under the influence of temperature and voltage applied to the liquid crystals. Unfortunately, it will not work to restore the dead pixels of the monitor.
That is, there is a white or gray screen on the face. First, you should check the cables and try connecting the monitor to a different video source. Also check if the monitor menu is displayed on the screen.
If everything remains the same, we look closely at the power supply board. In the power supply unit of the LCD monitor, voltages of 24, 12, 5, 3.3 and 2.5 volts are usually formed. It is necessary to check with a voltmeter if everything is in order with them.
If everything is in order, then we carefully look at the video signal processing board - it is usually smaller than the power supply board. It has a microcontroller and auxiliary elements. It is necessary to check whether food comes to them. With one probe, touch the contact of the common wire (usually along the contour of the board), and with the other, go over the terminals of the microcircuits. Usually food is somewhere in the corner.
If everything is in order in the power supply, but there is no oscilloscope, then we check all the monitor loops. There should be no carbon deposits or darkening on their contacts. If you find something, clean it with isopropyl alcohol. In extreme cases, you can clean it with a needle or scalpel. Also check the ribbon cable and the board with the monitor control buttons.
If all else fails, then perhaps you are faced with a case of a failed firmware or a failure of the microcontroller. This usually happens from surges in the 220 V network or simply from aging of the elements. Usually, in such cases, you have to study special forums, but it's easier to start up for spare parts, especially if you have a familiar karate fighter fighting against objectionable LCD monitors.
This case is easily treated - you need to remove the frame or the back cover of the monitor and pull out the board with buttons. Most often, there you will see a crack in the board or in the solder.
Sometimes there are faulty buttons or a loop. A crack in the board violates the integrity of the conductors, so they need to be cleaned and soldered, and the board must be glued to strengthen the structure.
This is due to aging of the backlight lamps. According to my data, LED backlighting does not suffer from this. Deterioration of the parameters of the inverter is also possible due to aging of the constituent components.
This is often due to a bad VGA cable without an EMI suppressor - a ferrite ring. If replacing the cable does not work, then power supply interference may have entered the imaging circuits.
Usually they get rid of them schematically by using filtering capacities for power supply on the signal board. Try to replace them and write to me about the result.
This completes my wonderful rating of the TOP 10 most common LCD monitor malfunctions. Most of the breakdown data is collected from repairs of popular monitors such as Samsung, LG, BENQ, Acer, ViewSonic and Hewlett-Packard.
This rating, it seems to me, is also true for LCD TVs and laptops. What is your situation on the LCD monitor repair front? Write on the forum and in the comments.
The most common questions when disassembling LCD monitors and TVs - how to remove the frame? How do I release the latches? How to remove the plastic from the case? etc.
One of the wizards made a nice animation explaining how to disengage the latches from the chassis, so I'll leave it here - it will come in handy.
To view animation - click on the image.
Recently, monitor manufacturers are increasingly completing new monitors with external power supplies in a plastic case ... I must say that this makes it easier to troubleshoot LCD monitors by replacing the power supply. But it complicates the operating mode and the repair of the power supply itself - they often overheat.
I showed how to disassemble such a body in the video below. The method is not the best, but it is fast and can be done with improvised means.
VIDEO
I am interested in the successful experience of repairing the matrix, except for replacing the lamp.
And with the fall - this is a special case, which is now in front of me.
Thank you for your interest.
_________________
I can sell EVERYTHING, but will the price suit you?
At the expense of know-how. In the late 90s Tefal was introduced to us as a know-how “in a frying pan”.
And the matrices are really relevant. I have little experience, but eat from scratch.
_________________
I can sell EVERYTHING, but will the price suit you?
And how do you determine, if not a secret, which capacitor is faulty - by desoldering everything or on the board?
_________________
I can sell EVERYTHING, but will the price suit you?
_________________
I can sell EVERYTHING, but will the price suit you?
If you have stripes on the monitor - do not rush to throw away the matrix, it can be reanimated!
[info] sergiokrm
A couple of hours ago, I updated the previous post about the 19 ″ matrix, after that, during the experiments, I found out one important thing. It turns out that decoder cables, torn from the matrix board, can be returned quite easily (in the case when the cable has come off the glass, it is unlikely that anything can be done). How to attach it back? It's very simple - to SOLDER! 🙂
In order:
Tried it on a broken matrix with nothing to lose. Now I will try on a working, but defective matrix from the previous post. I will try to take a photo.
Once again I was convinced of the need to purchase a microscope.
When looking at requests for different periods of time, we sometimes find a sufficient number of requests as a whole “incorrect”. The interesting thing is that people are trying to find something that even sounds absurd!
In this article, we will analyze exactly the requests in the field of household appliances repair.
We took all the practical numbers from the website of the home appliance repair company> which also deals with televisions, if you need more detailed numbers, then you can look at them yourself on this resource.
It turns out in the field of repairing television equipment, a very common problem arises with the largest and most delicate part of the TV - its screen.
A rather light impact on him leads him to a state of inadequacy. Common causes of TV breakdowns:
The child hit him with an object
At the exit, as a rule, it turns out that there is a clouding of the screen in a certain place, or a crack that has a characteristic black oily trace, which only grows and grows over time. In such a situation, using the TV is already unpleasant and rather even harmful to the eyes.
Then people start calling different companies, with one single question in their minds “I need repair of a broken TV screen, can you restore it?”. It doesn't matter if it's LCD, plasma. the first questions are just like that.
We requested accurate statistical data from one of the market leaders in the field of TV repair in Moscow> we really like the approach to analyzing all the data and then adjusting our services to the market and customers. And the numbers themselves look like this:
37% of applicants (interested in TV repair) have a broken screen.
50% of them are sure that it can be repaired quickly enough for little money.
80%, when they hear that it is impossible to repair a breakdown of this format, begin to react negatively, as if they are trying to deceive them.
Let's figure it out, can a cracked TV screen be repaired?
For this, let's figure out what a TV is.
Modern TV is just the screen itself in the form of a monolithic block that cannot be disassembled, boards responsible for the functioning and correct human response, the case itself, along with the power supply and speakers.
So how can people in your home fix a thin and irreparable screen? This screen is assembled by robots, with processes such as pouring, soldering, drying and so on. This is all done with ultra-high precision, which is beyond the reach of the human eye.
Be smarter and then all problems will be solved faster and easier!
If your TV has a faulty matrix, first of all, you should contact us to find out whether the matrix is recreational or replace it, as well as the cost and delivery time of the matrix. Call us.
Before you call or ask a question about the cost of replacing the matrix, so as not to waste your time and yours, first find out the model of the TV, since there are many modifications of LCD, LED or LCD matrix even within one TV model. Thus, there are hundreds of titles for each screen size. It is IMPOSSIBLE to provide you with information without a model.
MODEL NUMBER can be found on the sticker on the back of the TV. The so-called nameplate. Looks like that:
Do not try to read the model number from the box or documentation. Often, the model number is partially reflected there, or is written for several models with different screen sizes at once. The information will be inaccurate, and we will just waste time.
The manufacturer is working hard to ensure that the user cannot easily resolve the issue of replacing the cracked screen.
Therefore, in nature Attention! THERE ARE NO UNIVERSAL MATRIXES FOR ANY TV.
Each model has a well-defined matrix model.
Moreover, even in the same TV model, depending on the batch of goods, there may be several different variations of the matrix. And these variations are not interchangeable. Depending on the type of matrix, the TV must be programmed for a specific version of the matrix.
We receive many calls every day with a request to restore, repair the screen (aka a matrix, aka a panel) after a blow. Definitely, if there was a blow to the screen, or pressure on the screen, or the TV fell, then 99.9% of the screen is broken. Even if there are no cracks and debris outside. The design of the matrix is such that from the outside it is pasted over with a special polarizing film that does not allow you to see the cracks from the outside, and at the same time, protects the user from injury. It is impossible to restore the matrix damaged in this way. In other words, she is no longer recreational. In this case, there is only one way - replacing the LCD, LED or LCD matrix with a whole one.
In some cases, it is possible. When water gets on the electrical lines and contacts of the TV matrix, a galvanic reaction occurs. This triggers the processes of corrosion and dissolution of current-carrying paths, short circuits also often occur in different circuits and this can ultimately lead to the destruction of the chips on the matrix. If water gets on the screen and flows down it, or any other liquid gets inside the TV, even a small amount. Unplug the TV set from the wall outlet as soon as possible and contact a specialist in matrices. Do not delay the repair, various liquids will sooner or later dissolve part of the current-carrying paths of the matrix. The faster the restoration is carried out correctly, the greater the chance to save money and restore your screen.
The matrix of LCD, LED or LCD TVs is very fragile and can easily be damaged or broken if pressed or hit. In some cases, the picture on such a TV is partially or completely missing. It is impossible to restore the matrix damaged by pressure or impact. In this case, it is only possible to replace the LCD, LED or LCD matrix with a whole one.
You can replace the TV matrix with us. We do not recommend changing the matrix yourself, not due to the fact that we are afraid of losing you as an installation client. This is simply done in order to prevent its damage with an incorrect, illiterate connection. Different types of matrices have a different supply voltage, the location of the power pins in the connector also differs from type to type of matrix. Also, different matrix models use different positions of the color bits in LVDS streams and other tricks invented by TV manufacturers. In this regard, it is often necessary to resort to changing the settings in the service menu of TVs, accessible only to specialists.
Matrices are often out of stock. Usually supplied on request. Therefore, it is rare where they can be put up for sale. If you nevertheless find a matrix on sale for your device, then you are in luck. However, it will be very difficult for the user himself to check not only the operability, but also to make sure whether it is new or not, since the matrix does not work separately without the modules in the TV. And, obviously, its quality and performance is questionable, and there is a risk of acquiring a useless thing. When you purchase a matrix with installation, this danger disappears. You see a working TV!
LCD panels are not cheap spare parts, so they are delivered to order, just for your TV. Rather, you will need an advance payment when ordering a matrix. Replacing an LCD matrix is difficult even for specialists, you need to know the type of matrix and how to connect it, supply voltage and other technical details.Therefore, we do not recommend changing the matrix yourself, since you can not only damage it, but, most likely, without knowledge of how to connect, and, often, in programming, you will not be able to make it work.
Attention! We do not sell liquid crystal matrices for self-replacement to users (due to the technical features described below when installing a new matrix).
IMPORTANT!
The cost of repair for replacing the matrix depends on the TV model
Video (click to play).
IMPORTANT! Certain TV models have different types of matrix. Without a TV model, we will not be able to answer which matrix is installed in your TV model, respectively, to say the cost of repair. Therefore, we ask you for the model number of the TV.
