In detail: do-it-yourself repair of the Kia sportage 2 handout from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
Transfer case overhaul - general information
Overhaul of the transfer case is a difficult procedure to perform on your own. It involves the disassembly and correct reassembly of many small assemblies and components. It is necessary to accurately measure the many gaps and correct them correctly by choosing the appropriate size shims and circlip. Thus, if it becomes necessary to overhaul the transfer case, its removal and installation can be performed by an amateur mechanic, while the actual repair and restoration should be left to the car service specialists. There is a possibility of purchasing remanufactured boxes - consult the specialists of the dealer department. In any case, the time and money spent on repairing and restoring the old box will turn out to be quite commensurate with the cost of purchasing a restored unit.
Nevertheless, it should be said that the overhaul of the transfer case by the forces of even an inexperienced amateur mechanic is quite possible, provided that there is an appropriate special tool and an accurate and careful approach to performing each of the procedures, when not one of even the smallest steps is skipped.
Tools required to perform a transfer case overhaul include pliers for removing and installing both inner and outer circlips, bearing puller, sliding hammer, drift set, plunger-type dial indicator, and possibly a hydraulic press. In addition, a strong, comfortable-height workbench equipped with a vice, or a stand for dismantling transmissions, is absolutely essential.
Video (click to play).
When disassembling the transfer case, pay close attention to how each of the smallest components are installed, their position in relation to other parts, and the type of fasteners (take notes as you disassemble). The accompanying illustrations provided here are intended to help you understand the layout of the box - however, drawing up explanatory notes during disassembly still much more reliably guarantees the correctness of subsequent assembly.
Transfer case components type NP231
1 - Front holder of the crosspiece, its oil seal, sealing washer and fastening nut 2 - Plug, pin and spring of the switch lock 3 - the Front holder with an oil seal 4 - the Front half of the crankcase 5 - Vacuum sensor-switch with a sealing ring 6 - Assembly of the ventilation line 7 - Bearing and retaining ring of the primary gear 8 - the Retaining ring of a gear wheel of a reduction gear 9 - the holder of the primary gear 10 - Thrust washers of a gear wheel of a reduction transfer 11 - the Primary gear wheel 12 - the Guide bearing of the primary gear 13 - the Gear wheel of the lowering transfer 14 - a hub of a fork of switching of modes 15 - the Retaining ring of the hub 16 - the Distance washer 17 - the Springs of the synchronizer 18 - Sliding keys of the synchronizer 19 - the Hub 20 - the Coupling 21 - the Blocking ring 22 - Retaining ring of the front bearing 23 - the Front bearing of a secondary shaft 24 - the Front secondary shaft
25 - the Drive sprocket 26 - Drive chain 27 - Bearings of the drive sprocket 28 - Rear bearing of a secondary shaft 29 - the Driven shaft 30 - the Epiploon 31 - Assembling the oil pump 32 - Rear bearing of a driven shaft 33 - the Lock ring 34 - Rear half of the crankcase 35 - Filling plug with a gasket 36 - Drain plug with a gasket 37 - the Back holder 38 - Extension casing 39 - the Bushing 40 - the Epiploon 41 - the Mesh screen of the oil sampling tube 42 - Nipple connection of a tube 43 - Oil intake pipe 44 - the Sealing ring of the oil sampling tube 45 - Magnet 46 - Nut and washer of the lever of modes 47 - the Lever of modes 48 - the O-ring and the bushing of the holder of the selector 49 - Selector 50 - Fork modes 51 - Range plug 52 - Spring modes
Transfer case components, type NP242
1 - the holder of the front bearing with an epiploon 2 - the front half of the crankcase 3 - Switching selector 4 - a Fork of switching to a lower gear with inserts 5 - the Shift rod 6 - the Shifting bracket 7 - the Slider bracket 8 - the Bushing with a spring 9 - Fork of modes with inserts 10 - Bushing 11 - the spring of a fork 12 - the Bushing 13 - Assembly of the ventilation line 14 - Bearing and retaining ring of the primary gear 15 - Retaining ring of a gear wheel of a reduction gear 16 - the Holder of a gear wheel of a reduction transfer 17 - the Thrust washer of the gear of the underdrive 18 - the Primary gear wheel 19 - the Rear half of the crankcase 20 - Drain and filler plug 21 - the Rear bearing holder 22 - Extension casing 23 - the Bushing and the epiploon 24 - the Vacuum sensor-switch 25 - Magnet 26 - the Thrust ring 27 - the Lock ring 28 - the switching clutch 29 - the Gear wheel of the lowering transfer
30 - Guide bearing (primary gear / driven shaft) 31 - Front bearing of the front output shaft and circlip 32 - Shaft of intermediate clutch 33 - the switching clutch 34 - the Lock ring 35 - the Driven shaft 36 - Assembling the differential 37 - the O-ring of a tube of the oil pump 38 - Oil intake pipe of the oil pump with a mesh screen 39 - Rollers of the bearing of the driven shaft 40 - the Drive sprocket 41 - Drive chain 42 - the Lock ring 43 - the Oil pump seal 44 - the Oil pump 45 - Rear bearing with a circlip 46 - Rear bearing of the front output shaft 47 - the Lock ring 48 - Driven sprocket 49 - the Front secondary shaft 50 - Spacer washers of the driven shaft bearing 51 - Washer and nut of the shift lever 52 - the Lever of switching 53 - O-ring and sector oil seal 54 - Cork, spring and retainer pin 55 - the Sealing plug 56 - The front holder of the cross with a nut and a sealing washer, a slider and an oil seal
Transfer case components, type NP249
1 - the Epiploon 2 - the holder of the front bearing 3 - The front bearing of the driven shaft with a locating ring 4 - The front half of the crankcase (with a toothed ring of the underdrive of internal gearing and a bushing of the shift rod) 5 - the gear wheel of the lowering transfer 6 - the Primary gear wheel 7 - Thrust washers equipped with tongues 8 - Holder plate 9 - the retaining ring of the primary gear 10 - the clutch 11 - Clutch shaft 12 - the locking ring of the differential 13 - Differential assembly 14 - the Driving gear wheel of the driven shaft 15 - Retaining ring of a driving gear 16 - the Spacer washer of the driven shaft bearing 17 - Needle bearings of the driven shaft 18 - the Spacer washer of the driven shaft bearing 19 - the Driven shaft 20 - Viscous clutch 21 - the Retaining ring of the viscous clutch 22 - the Retaining ring of the oil pump installation 23 - the Oil pump
24 - Rear bearing of a driven shaft 25 - Retaining ring of the rear bearing 26 - the Drive gear wheel of the speedometer 27 - Assembling the rear holder (with a cap, an oil seal, a bushing, an access cover and a gasket) 28 - a locating ring of the rear bearing 29 - the Front half of the crankcase 30 - Rear bearing of the front output shaft 31 - Assembling the oil suction tube (with connecting hoses, mesh screen, tubes and O-ring) 32 - Assembling the shift fork with the rod (including fork lining) 33 - Drive chain 34 - the Front secondary shaft 35 - the Switching selector 36 - the crankcase magnet 37 - Front bearing of the front output shaft 38 - Retaining ring of the bearing 39 - Plunger and retainer spring 40 - Plug and retainer O-ring 41 - Lock nut and washer of the mode lever 42 - the Lever of modes 43 - Oil seal (front bearing of the front output shaft) 44 - the Holder of the secondary shaft cross 45 - the Sealing washer of the holder of the cross 46 - the Nut of the holder of the cross
Before sending the transfer case for repair, it is useful to have an idea of which part of the transfer case is malfunctioning. Some of the defects are uniquely associated with different nodes, which can greatly simplify the troubleshooting procedure and reduce the time for troubleshooting. See also Section Troubleshooting at the beginning of the Guide.
Many owners of Kia Sportage and Kia Sorento, Hyundai Santa Fe and Hyundai IX35 / Tucson, especially after 2009 release (the so-called third generation), are faced with four-wheel drive problems, which often sounds like this:
I got under way, I had to accelerate, I pressed the gas, received a strong blow;
when driving, I heard a blow in the area of \ u200b \ u200bthe driver's legs / armrest on the bottom. At the same time, the car continues to move, as if nothing had happened;
a couple of times I put it in the mud on my belly (they pulled it out with a tractor), after a while the four-wheel drive disappeared;
four-wheel drive does not turn on / refused;
pulled / towed another car, after that the all-wheel drive error lights up;
does not turn the rear universal joint.
As a rule, this problem manifests itself in winter, also when passing through mud pits (when the car owner discovers that the front wheels are "whistling"). If you drive only on asphalt roads, do not start abruptly at traffic lights, then you may not notice anything, but the problem, obviously, will not disappear by itself. In the overwhelming majority of cases, the cause of the malfunction is in the splined connection between the transfer case (transfer case) and the gearbox. The slots are simply ripped off (licked off). Diesel cars are no longer lucky, in which the torque is greater than in gasoline ones.
This is a real disease Kia Sorento, Kia Sportage, Hyundai SantaFe, Hyundai Tucson (IX35) after 2009. Moreover, sooner or later, almost every owner of these cars is faced with this, if you do not do preventive maintenance (for example, you can read the link, although according to reviews this does not always help).
The initial diagnostics is simple: the car on the lift, turn on the gear and look at the rear universal joint, if it does not spin, then most likely you have a breakdown of the transfer case, which we are writing about. If the cardan is spinning on the lift, then most likely the problem is in the all-wheel drive clutch. We also add that we strongly do not recommend driving for a long time with such a malfunction of the all-wheel drive, since overheating from the friction of the transfer case mechanisms can cause additional damage to the transfer case.
In different sources (for example, ref. 1, ref. 2, ref. 3, ref. 4, ref. 5), the root cause is an oil seal (OE-number: 47352-39300), which is located at the input of the intermediate shaft of the right axle shaft into the transfer case. A defective oil seal will cause moisture and dirt to enter the dispenser. All this (since the washer passes through the transfer case) comes to the splined connection of the transfer case shaft and the gearbox differential cup (in another way: the differential case, the differential cover-cover). Over time, under the influence of corrosion, the metal weakens and cuts the splines.
If you look at the part of the washdown in the distributor box, then there is a lot of rust, which confirms the correctness of this judgment.
The solution to this problem, frankly, is not cheap. If you are lucky and cut the splines only on the distributor, then such a repair with the work of a master and the purchase of a used distributor can cost from 450 dollars. It's scary to even talk about buying a new handout, taking into account its price. If you are unlucky and also cut off the slots of the case (cup) of the differential, then you need to buy it too, which can additionally cost 100-400 dollars. (depending on modification)
We offer a cheaper option and no less reliable - restoration of transfer case splines and / or differential housing. It will cost at least half the price.
TECHNOLOGY OF PERFORMANCE OF WORKS ON REPLACEMENT OF AUTOMATIC COUPLINGS FOR A / M KIA SPORTAGE
(from Mike482 aka Mikhail Chernyshev & Kostas aka Konstantin Lysakov)
Consumables: Grease (recommended with molybdenum), gasket sealant.
Replacement Parts: You may need everything from bolts and washers to the complete coupling.
Note: All English part names and part numbers are taken from the spare parts catalog from the site:
Using a 10 key, unscrew 6 bolts "BOLT 0K01133206A" fastening the outer part of the "FREE WHEEL HUB-AUTO 0K01A3320XA" coupling (Fig. 1)
Removing the crown ring from the outer part of the sleeve (Fig. 2).
Typical malfunctions: Broken tendrils, wear of the plastic sleeve of the coupling and squeezing of the back of the crown ring (Fig. 3 and 4, respectively).
Rice. 3. Breaking of antennae and wear of the clip.
Rice. 5. Remove the counterpart of the coupling (FIXED CAM 0K01A33040, it is also the counterpart, it is the hub of the coupling). General view is shown in Fig. 6.
The second way to pull out the lock washer: we take a 2mm aluminum wire and wind it around the lock ring around the SHRUS slots so as not to let the ring sit back into the groove, which it constantly strives to do. Then we take it out with our hands.
After removing the lock washer, take out the regular washer. After that, gently prying the counterpart from different sides with a screwdriver, pull it out.
Typical malfunctions: Squeezing antennae, breaking off the legs (Fig. 8 and 9).
Disassembly is complete. All parts are recommended to be cleaned of old grease, rinsed and lubricated from the heart.
Assembly: We take the otvetka, put it on the CV joint and carefully insert the 2 protruding legs into the grooves intended for them. The otvetka is put in tightness, so gently tap it in a circle with a hammer through a piece of wood until it snaps into place. We put on the washer, then the lock washer, until it fits into the groove of the CV joint.
Lubricate the joint with sealant and put the outer part of the coupling in place so that the protruding teeth fit into the corresponding grooves on the counterpart (Fig. 10).
1.if it is possible to hang out the entire front end:
When 2WD is turned on, the front universal joint rotates by hand, and one of the front wheels is held by hand. In this case, the other wheel must rotate. If the wheel does not spin in such layouts, then the overrunning clutch (or its component) is a polar fox (arctic fox).
2.check in garage conditions:
Jack up 1 front wheel. In 2WD mode, the front universal joint rotates by hand, the wheel should rotate. We try to hold it with our hand - it should spin (as far as the strength is enough to turn the cardan). If it does not spin, then the sleeve is a polar fox. Likewise the second wheel. In the same way, it is a good idea to check if the clutch disengages. First, turn on the clutch by rotating the universal joint. Then we turn the wheel in the same direction, while the cardan is already spinning, driven from the wheel. And then we turn the wheel in reverse (we simulate a rollback). Light click, the gimbal stops.
3. Check from American colleagues:
“Sorry, but I have to jump in here. The Sportage does not have a center differential of any type. It uses a mechanical U joint to connect the front and rear axles to the drive train. If you run in 4WD on dry pavement you may (and probably will) snap it. Make no mistake about it!
You can test it. Put it in 4WD, release the brake and move forward 1 or 2 MPH. Then turn the wheel. You will notice a high resistance in the steering to the point you will think you have no power steering. This is the pressure buildup (or binding) - difference in the front and rear axle rotation. That pressure builds right smack in the middle where the U joint is.
There are no clutches or lubricant to release this pressure! "
Translation from Kostasa (I translate freely and briefly) On a dry flat surface, turn on 4WD and drive slowly. Turn the steering wheel and you will feel a lot of effort on the steering wheel, as if there is no power steering. This is due to the difference in the rotational speeds of the front and rear axles (due to the absence of center differential).
First gear, four-wheel drive, head out the window, harder on the gas and watch the front wheel slip.
