Do-it-yourself tod sorento transfer case repair

In detail: do-it-yourself tod sorento transfer case repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Some malfunctions of the Kia Sorento transfer case:

1. Crunch during acceleration
2. "Kicks" with increasing speed
3. Lack of all-wheel drive
4. Too much resistance to the movement of the car with the front wheels fully turned out
5. Oil leakage from under the gland flange of the front and rear cardan.
6. Rear cardan flange backlash
7. Front cardan flange backlash
8. Rapid darkening of the oil in the transfer case.
9. Flashing LOW indicator
10. Does not downshift (LOW)

Transfer case repair we start with computer diagnostics and then we check all the electrical components of the dispenser. If all electrical components are in working order, then proceed to the elimination of mechanical faults.

Approximate cost of work repair of distribution box KIA Sorento until 2009 in our technical center:

Computer diagnostics

Removing the installation of the dispenser

-5000 rub. (if automatic transmission)

-7000 rubles (if the box is a mechanic)

Disassembly / assembly of the transfer case

Changing the oil in the transfer case

Any repair of a transfer case in our autotechnical center begins with a diagnosis. Diagnostics helps to establish an accurate diagnosis of a malfunction, which means that it can be repaired at a higher quality level.

Kia Sorento transfer case malfunctions are expressed in a hum when the car is moving, difficult downshifting or inability to turn it on, extraneous sounds when turned on and increased noise of operation.

Video (click to play).

Most often, the repair of the Kia Sorento transfer case of TOD technology is associated with the restoration of the electromagnetic clutch, due to worn-out clutches, as well as leaking oil seals.

When the clutch wears out, the following happens. In normal mode, the drive is carried out to the rear axle. When the wheels of the rear axle slip, the shaft transmitting force to it begins to rotate faster than the shaft going to the front cardan, which is recorded by speed sensors on the shafts. The data goes to the TCSM unit and it gives a command to the EMC coil and the electromagnet turns on the electromagnetic clutch. Further, the rotation is transmitted to the chain and then to the lower shaft of the front cardan. But since the clutch clutches are out of order (burned out), there is no transmission of torque to the front axle and the car remains only rear-wheel drive.

In turn, friction wear products appear in the oil and enter the pump, which leads to its rapid failure.

On the working surface of the pump, deep scratches and scuffs appear, wear of the gear teeth progresses, which leads to a decrease in performance or a complete failure of the pump in operation. This affects almost all parts of the transfer case and leads to their rapid wear, shaft bearings suffer, since they are all of an open type and friction wear products drastically reduce their “life”.

Myself transfer box repair Kia Sorento is divided into several stages, where the troubleshooting stage is important, allowing to draw a conclusion about the reason for the failure of the dispenser and draw up a list of replaceable parts.

Fulfilling Kia Sorento transfer case repair, often the chain requires replacement when it is pulled out, the main bearing of the drive shaft to the rear cardan and the thrust bearing of the friction clutches, as well as its support washer.

All refurbished transfer boxes come with a lifetime warranty.

Removal / installation of automatic transmission

the discount is valid for repair work: removal / installation of automatic transmission, subject to a comprehensive repair with us

mrdoggy, if I'm not mistaken, then the puller is needed there only for one bearing, everything else changes easily and simply (locking clutches, etc., not counting the mass of bolts that can stick.))

please correct (for educational purposes) because. it looks simple and will not be difficult = disassemble - replace - assemble, because there is enough information on it and plenty of examples.

vilaine 30.09.09, 16:30:53

Toadmaster Messages: 2263 Registered: 26.07.07, 19:00:52 Where: Kharkov Age: 41 Auto: 4x4

soroton 30.09.09, 19:10:08

verbosity Messages: 484 Registered: 10.08.09, 06:24:10 Where: Kiev, Obolon Age: 42 Auto: Was
Sorento 2.5CRDI, AT, TOD Real name: Petro

vilaine 30.09.09, 20:04:53

Toadmaster Messages: 2263 Registered: 26.07.07, 19:00:52 Where: Kharkov Age: 41 Auto: 4x4

Murtuz 01.10.09, 10:53:31

verbosity Messages: 405 Registered: 18.01.09, 20:21:40 Where: Sevastopol-Yevpatoriya Age: 39 Auto: Kia Sorento 2.5 EXAT Real name: Vadim

02.10.09, 08:04:31

There is such a thing - for example, with a sharp (and then - pedal to half) start on asphalt - a second screech of rubber is a normal phenomenon

experienced Messages: 594 Registered: 28.08.09, 08:15:29 Where: Kiev, Academictown Age: 42 Auto: VAG diesel Real name: Sasha

vilaine 02.10.09, 18:46:17

meager screeching, because ESP and all-wheel drive. And without it.

Added after 8 minutes 26 seconds:

Toadmaster Messages: 2263 Registered: 26.07.07, 19:00:52 Where: Kharkov Age: 41 Auto: 4x4

SERG 27 15.12.09, 23:16:12

4 never put different tires or tires with different wear on a car with TOD! The system goes crazy with this, my case. It's good that I immediately began to fight the symptoms, otherwise the handout could lie down. [/ Quote]

. but in any case, the rear wears out faster than the front, what to do in this case, throw away a third of the worn rubber?

companion Messages: 42 Registered: 17.08.09, 00:50:59 Where: Odessa Age: 41 Auto: kia sorento new 2.2 CRDI 2012 Real name: Sergei

vilaine 15.12.09, 23:36:10

Toadmaster Messages: 2263 Registered: 26.07.07, 19:00:52 Where: Kharkov Age: 41 Auto: 4x4

SERG 27 15.12.09, 23:39:31

companion Messages: 42 Registered: 17.08.09, 00:50:59 Where: Odessa Age: 41 Auto: kia sorento new 2.2 CRDI 2012 Real name: Sergei

monstrilo 15.12.09, 23:39:47

And for uniform wear, the rubber must be periodically replaced. In the manual, by the way, it is written and shown in the pictures. I had 120,000 tires on my Chevy Niva. wear was uniform and so she left on this rubber. and a comrade had the same tires without restoning for the same amount and the back one was like new, and the front one became like a bald one.

knowing Messages: 75 Registered: 12.11.09, 22:55:44 Where: Crimea, Simferopol Age: 43 Auto: Sorento 2.5 EX, AT, 08y.v. Real name: Vladimir

SERG 27 16.12.09, 00:12:02

in short, about putting the winter one on the rear wheels only, and there can be no question if I have TOD?

Added after 2 minutes 44 seconds:
dug up here:
Transmission operation algorithm with TOD
with TOD, Sorento is a full-fledged SUV with PERMANENT all-wheel drive! The transmission has a multi-plate clutch (of the Borg & Warner type) that transmits torque to the front axle almost always after the start of movement, but in different proportions, namely:
AUTO mode
1. Sharp start (50:50).
2. Normal driving with economical fuel consumption (0:100

30:70).
3. Acceleration in motion (30:70

50:50).
4.Normal movement, controlled(20:80

30:70).
5. Driving on a slippery road (30:70

40:60).
6. Movement downhill 50:50.
7. ABS activation during braking 30:70.
8.Brake control 0:100

companion Messages: 42 Registered: 17.08.09, 00:50:59 Where: Odessa Age: 41 Auto: kia sorento new 2.2 CRDI 2012 Real name: Sergei

soroton 12.01.10, 23:02:43

I changed the oil in the razdatka, blah, the car became completely different, it became 4-wheel drive, and earlier it was like “4Hi automatic activation”. Those. now I can say that before all these intermediate 10:90 - 40:60 was not, the campaign included only 50/50 with sharp acceleration and rear slippage.
The car began to be able to brake the engine

, before the effect of releasing the gas pedal at speed was very weak. Behavior on the road has become more all-wheel drive. Yes, the jerks are gone. The car passed only 4 thousand from the salon, the campaign in Lutsk was flooded with the cheapest red liquid. I filled in ENEOS ATF III.

There is really one drawback - earlier, by twitching, I knew exactly when the front rowed

but it's clear that it's better now.

verbosity Messages: 484 Registered: 10.08.09, 06:24:10 Where: Kiev, Obolon Age: 42 Auto: Was
Sorento 2.5CRDI, AT, TOD Real name: Petro

vilaine 12.01.10, 23:57:18

Toadmaster Messages: 2263 Registered: 26.07.07, 19:00:52 Where: Kharkov Age: 41 Auto: 4x4

brand 01.02.10, 21:52:53

where did you change it and how much did it cost?
is it worth doing with planned maintenance from the officials or is it better to do it on the sly without them?

I have already driven about 40tyk and I only read about the smooth connection of the front end on the forums

in real life, my TOD works like this: we drive into dry sand, drive until a high shaft is squeezed out in front of the front wheels, we rest against this shaft with PASSIVE front wheels, the back slips, raking up the shaft from behind, with a jerk and a booming knock, the front turns on sharply, the car moves forward and pecks up (runs into the shaft) by 10-20 centimeters, (then the front end apparently turns off), we sink down with our nose down and again rest against the shaft, a thud, forward / up again, we sit down. and so on in a circle. With a fool, if you unsuccessfully press the brake, you can get both a shaft of sand in front of the fart and an ALREADY dug shaft behind the back, i.e. the classic “sailed”.

If you turn on the 4xLov handle, then the car SWIMS forward smoothly and confidently, even shifting gears up, i.e. it’s the lowered one that doesn’t seem to have anything to do with it, but it’s a matter of hard blocking.

companion Messages: 35 Registered: 28.02.08, 10:00:41 Where: Kiev, Obolon Auto: Sorento 2.5crdi AT

soroton 01.02.10, 22:15:43

brand wrote: where did you change it and how much did it cost?
is it worth doing with planned maintenance from the officials or is it better to do it on the sly without them?

I have driven about 40k

with a booming thud, it turns on abruptly before

If the officials have a normal oil, and you can’t bother yourself with your hands, then you can also have them.
I changed it myself in the garage, because, among other things, the officials pour the oil that they have, and I filled in exactly what, according to people's reviews, works well, and with the money that the replacement cost, I bought Toulouses in the garage for the future

I don’t know what you have filled in from the factory, but if that’s what I had, then there is already IMHO shoe polish.

the fact that a jerk on the sand may not deviate much from the norm, I haven’t had a chance to ride on open sand yet, I won’t say for sure, but it shouldn’t knock.

verbosity Messages: 484 Registered: 10.08.09, 06:24:10 Where: Kiev, Obolon Age: 42 Auto: Was
Sorento 2.5CRDI, AT, TOD Real name: Petro

In order to repair the transfer case, you need to have a set of wrenches, a bearing puller and an assistant with you. The transfer box can be removed without dismantling the cross member and exhaust pipe. We remove the front cardan, then move the rear cardan aside and remove the balancing element, the latter is held on by four bolts.

Pour oil from the dispenser into the prepared vessel and unscrew it from the gearbox. Next, disconnect the wire connections, there are three of them. We pull the transfer case from side to side and pull it out of its seat. Next, unscrew the shank fastening nut, remove the electric motor, then divide the transfer case in half. We remove everything superfluous from the shaft, then remove the retaining ring, dismantle the clutch along with the friction clutches.

We remove two stars from the chain. There is a magnet near the oil filter where metal chips accumulate, pull it out and clean it. We dismantle directly the oil filter and the pump with the shaft. We take a wooden block and carefully knock out the bearing of the front cardan. Keep in mind that this very bearing is pressed into its seat, so it will be very difficult to remove it, you will have to use a tricky tool.

We clean and wipe every detail from oil, re-assemble the basket with friction clutches. It remains to clean everything and reassemble in reverse order. If you work slowly. but with knowledge of the matter and with all the tools and spare parts, you can do it in one working day, although, as a rule, even in a car service they do this work in a few days.

During installation, you need to properly tighten all the bolts and do not forget to pour new oil into the transfer case. Repair of the transfer case solves many problems, now there will be no extraneous sounds from the gearbox in the car, the gears will switch more clearly.As for the advice on self-repair, one thing can be said here - it is better to repair with a knowledgeable assistant who will suggest the sequence of performing a particular operation.

Most often, the repair of the Kia Sorento transfer case of TOD technology is associated with the restoration of the electromagnetic clutch, due to worn-out clutches, as well as leaking oil seals.

In turn, friction wear products appear in the oil and enter the pump, which leads to its rapid failure.

All refurbished transfer boxes come with a lifetime warranty.

Removal / installation of automatic transmission

the discount is valid for repair work: removal / installation of automatic transmission, subject to a comprehensive repair with us

It also happens like this: a car came to diagnose the engine and fuel system, did everything that was necessary, and then the client asks: “I still have a couple of malfunctions, could you at the same time see what can be done?”
Thus, we ended up in the repair of Sorento 2.5 CRDI VGT 2005 onwards complaining about problems with the control of the four-wheel drive.
On cars that had to be dealt with until recently, a fairly simple all-wheel drive control scheme was implemented. Either the drive was turned on by an actuator located on the transfer case, controlled by vacuum from an electro-pneumatic valve, or an electric motor was located on the transfer case, turning the actuator activation shank, which has up to four fixed positions (for example 2H, 4H, 2LOW, 4LOW) tracked by the positioner. Such an electric motor, both externally and internally, resembles a windshield wiper motor.
This car has a more complex all-wheel drive control scheme: ” TOD ” or “Torque On Demand” - active torque distribution between the axles. More information about the device can be found, for example, in this article.
One of the external distinguishing features of such a system is a two-position shift handle:

The essence of the problem lies in the fact that when you try to turn on a lower gear, the indicator “4LOW” in the instrument cluster flashes, but no downshift occurs.
Having connected the scanner, we saw errors:
1. In the engine control unit : P0700 Transmission control system malfunction
2. In the ABS unit: CAN timeout of the all-wheel drive system.
3. In the dispenser control unit:
P1734 Speed sensor referense - low input
P1730 Front speed sensor - low input
Indelible remained alone: P1734
The question arises: which of the speed sensors does this error refer to?
There are two of them on the transfer case - Front propeller speed sensor (behind the motor)

and Rear propeller speed sensor

(see manual at the link above)
Yes, there is another one on the rear driveshaft.

The Avtodatovsky manual, found in the car, also did not answer this question - in the Russian translation, the decoding of errors taken from there looks like this:

We alternately measure the voltage (signal level) between the terminals of the transfer case control unit B6, B17 and mass (output signal of the speed sensors), we get 2.8V, and according to the manual it should be about five. Just in case, we hang out and rotate the wheel with the gear engaged - we see fluctuations from zero to 2.8 V. That is, there are impulses, but their amplitude is small, which is actually what is said in the decoding of the error P1734 . We check the supply voltage of the speed sensors (between the terminals A8 and AT 8 on the diagram) and see the same 2.8 V. Disconnect the connector on the white transfer case. Connectors in the figure below.

And we measure the supply voltage of the sensors on it (pinout on the diagram in the lower right corner) and see: the voltage has returned to normal - 5V. Having run a little with a voltmeter from the transfer case control unit to the connectors on the transfer case itself, we understand: when the speed sensor connector is connected (the control of the electromagnetic clutch is also on this connector), the supply voltage drops to from 5V to 2.8 V. It remains to find the cause of this phenomenon. Data for checking the speed sensors could not be found, but it is quite possible to compare their resistances. We measure the resistance at the dispenser connector (in the diagram in the lower right corner) between the positive and negative outputs of each of the sensors.
Front sensor 120 ohm
Rear sensor 300 ohm
We assume that the front sensor is faulty, we bite the corresponding positive wire, put the connector back in place and see: the supply voltage has returned to normal. Reading errors: P1734 finally disappeared but appeared P1730 .
We change the front sensor (it is removed a bit tight using WD-40 and rocking). To access the sensor, the motor must be removed.

After replacing the sensor, the parameters returned to normal, the errors in all blocks disappeared, the downshift began to turn on.

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Registered: 03/16/2007
Posts: 44
Location: Dolgoprudny Moscow. region
Thanks:
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From you - 0

I looked through all the topics related to the TOD handout, I did not find an answer, so I raise a new topic. Let's start over: last weekend got stuck in the snow on level ground and found that the front end did not work; the downshift turns on with a characteristic push, the downshift lamp lights up, and the front end does not spin.In garage conditions, I hung out the car, everything works fine: I turn on the gear (automatic transmission), the rear starts to spin, about half a turn, then the front starts to rotate (you need to look carefully, the difference is almost not noticeable by eye, at first I thought that everything starts to rotate at once) , while sitting in the pit listening to the razdatka and did not hear anything. That is, in my case, the front end does not work under load. The forum has repeatedly said that the front end on the TOD includes a multi-plate electromagnetic clutch, I carefully studied the transfer case diagram, I didn’t find an electric magnetic clutch there, it looks like there is a mechanism like a freewheel, and I think he got a skiff. Questions to those who personally disassembled and knows TOD:
1. Part 47384.47384 called (spring and cam) - what is this and why?
2. Item 47368 called (coupling) - this is the “el magnetic coupling”, then where are the wires to it?
3. What did I get into, what should I prepare for?

Leningradets
MODERATOR
GURU HANDOVED

Registered: 25.10.2006
Messages: 1619
From: Moscow
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Item 47384 is a solenoid coil for the front cardan coupling
Part 47368 - Front Cardan Clutch Clutch Package

change magnetic clutch
The price is about 3 to 7 thousand rubles.

Registered: 03/16/2007
Posts: 44
Location: Dolgoprudny Moscow. region
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Added after 1 minute:

Registered: 03/16/2007
Posts: 44
Location: Dolgoprudny Moscow. region
Thanks:
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ColonelU
MODERATOR
GURU HANDOVED

Registered: 07/26/2006
Messages: 972
From: St. Petersburg
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Preved, uncle Lyovchik!
A conscientious repairman most likely would not make recommendations in advance. First, disassemble, troubleshoot, then buy the necessary parts and assemble.
Maybe you need to change the clutch, or maybe the control unit for the transfer case, by the way, there are no errors in the transfer case for an hour?
I am not a transfer case specialist, but judging by the fact that TOD changes the ratio of torques on the front and rear axles depending on driving conditions, the transfer case control unit measures a fairly large number of parameters - from the speed of rotation of the transfer case shafts to engine operating modes, and on the electromagnetic coil in this case, a time-varying voltage may come, possibly a pulsed one.
But this is of course speculative reasoning.

_________________
Sincerely (best wishes), Alexey
sorento 2.5 manual transmission 2009

Forum on oils, additives and lubricants

Message Gubkin » Jan 11, 2016, 09:59

3. Oil recommendations

1) According to the general catalog for the selection of oils, the original oil is recommended
To transfer case TOD oil Hyundai TOD 75W/80 02200-00130

4) You will not find this in any instruction. These oils have been tried at your own risk, but as practice has shown, they work perfectly.
These are oils for LSD (Limited Slip or friction) differentials

The limited slip differential with a clutch package is extremely similar to the transfer case.
I myself have personally used Mobilube Syn LS 75w-90 and the experience was positive. Before connected smoothly, without jerks. Because it happens on Dehron.

The volume of the filled oil - 1.7 l

Conclusion
- Do not run around looking for some exclusive oil for these transfer cases (such as Hyundai TOD 75W / 80 02200-00130)
- A good choice of MOBIL ATF LT 71141 (which by the way is recommended in old 5HP19 machines for Audi) apparently has increased friction properties compared to the usual Dexron III
- The frequency of changing the oil in the instructions is extremely suboptimal. According to the instructions, refueling is indefinite for normal conditions and 90 thousand km for severe conditions.
In practice, after 15 thousand km, jerks already appear on Dehron. Therefore, this interval is optimal.
- For frequent off-road use, it is better to choose Limited Slip 75w-90 oils. This will greatly extend the life of the chain, which stretches fairly quickly in tough conditions.
– similar transfer cases on BMW with xDrive system (ATC300/ATC350/ATC400/ATC500/ATC700 transfer cases) require special oil Shell TF0870 (aka BMW 83220397244). In terms of viscosity, this oil is an analogue of Dexron VI. But there is no chain in the handouts. I don’t say, but if it’s expensive or difficult to buy this oil, then the usual Dexron 3 or MOBIL ATF LT 71141 should fit without problems

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Home page » Kia repair » Transfer case repair Kia Sorento BL

Transfer case repair Kia Sorento BL

Model: Kia Sorento BL
body type: station wagon
Year, mileage: 2005, 123,500 km
Gearbox, drive: automatic, full
Engine: 3.5 petrol

The reason for petition to a car service Kia Sorento "Auto-Mig":

sorento transfer case repair

Description of the problem (distributor - faults diagnosed by the owner):

increased driving noise
transmission jerking on hard acceleration

Diagnostics handouts revealed the following:

Low oil level in the transfer case, resulting in premature gear wear.

Completed works:

removal and installation of the transfer case
handout repair

Consumables used:

Oil for transfer case Kia Sorento

sorento transfer case repair

The cost of repairing the transfer case on the Kia Sorento can be checked with the master of the auto repair center

Questions to those who personally know and understand TOD:
1. Part 47384, 47384 under the name (spring and cam) - what is this and what? for
2. Item 47368 called (this) is a clutch and there is an “el magnetic clutch”, then where are the wires to it?
3. What I got to, what I looked at

prepare? TOD did not find all the topics related to handouts, so I raise a new one. I'll start.
Topic first: Stuck on flat snow last weekend and found the front end was not a low end; works, it turns on with a characteristic push, the downshift lamp lights up, and the front end does not spin. I hung out the car in garage conditions, everything works fine: you turn on the gear for me (automatic transmission), it starts to spin about, half a turn in the back, then it starts to look at the front (the front must be carefully, the difference is not noticeable by eye, at first I thought that everything starts to rotate at once) , while sitting in the pit listening to the dispenser and did not hear anything. That is, in my case, the front end does not work under load. It was repeatedly said in the forum that the front end on the TOD multi-plate includes an electromagnetic clutch, carefully studied the transfer case circuit, the electric magnetic clutch is not there, it seems that there is a mechanism like an overrunning clutch, and I, it seems to me, came to him a skiff.
Questions to those who personally know and understand TOD:
1. Part 47384, 47384 under the name (spring and cam) - what is this and what? for
2. Item 47368 called (this) is a clutch and there is an “el magnetic clutch”, then where are the wires to it?
3. What did I get into, why am I writing

prepare? two weeks later

Friends tell me, I think correctly;
And since I have to disassemble the razdatka, can I replace the chain right away? (mileage 137000km- chain-what)
native voltage on which plugs, in what modes should they be?
Is it possible to ring without removing (47384 Detail - electromagnetic coil of the front cardan connection coupling)?
In general, how to check more precisely, what should I buy and what should I order?

_________________
Well, go uncle, here Leva, let's talk about sore
I repeat, I am not a Todo specialist in handouts. But I love pictures too. to look at, as far as I understand, the electromagnetic clutch coil and 47384 multi-plate 47368 and together form an electromagnetic clutch for connecting the all-wheel drive. Depending on the block of control signals for the transfer case, the coil either bites, releases, or the clutch is stronger, which actually allows the distribution of the torque between the axles, which, depending on the conditions, varies from 10/90 to 50/50. It also happens to be 0/100 (mode failsafe), maybe you are watching it. But of course, it could also be simple clutch wear, although I haven’t heard you complain before.But from time to time questions are heard about the chain, so you can buy something just in case, just to miss is not the main thing with the catalog number. Judging by the forums, some of our colleagues are already on this Todovian rake (the chain was advancing, it can be of different widths, I realized how much).
In general, with the same question, you can still walk around the Sorento forums, they have TOD from the same barrel.
Let's

Let's discuss.
so Means. I hung mine up and I see that it does not work in all modes before. more precisely, the wheels are spinning but only by hand you take them right away so they stop.

Then did the following. I disconnected the electric motor on the razdatka, which should turn on the all-wheel drive. and lo and behold it works. I tried to hold it with my hand but it didn't work.
Conclusions:
1. My tried, I didn’t make a mistake to slow down the front cardan. maybe inside the case of the bridge itself? But I think it's a distributor.
2. Something in vryatli (since I have nothing more than an electric motor, which would be responsible for the full inclusion of the drive). And what the hell knows him. but I think:
A) something with the chain.
B) according to the scheme, not as I understood, the rotation is transmitted there. clutch Near.
C) that there was a razdatka from KIA lying around and noticed a certain plug there. aluminum. maybe she's here.

wiped off and that's it. I think to buy every case for a chain .. and I’ll go disassemble the razdatka. who else can advise.

Preved, JX!
without us and right now Leva will figure it out. Your rather interesting observations. But the fact is that the TODovskaya steers a lower gear on the motor of the transfer case and the fork is needed there in order to shove the lowered gear of a number of gears and, it seems, for nothing else. There is a clutch, of course. It electromagnetic consists of a coil and a pack of disks. Maybe you moved the wire to the coil? In any case, there will be no coil without any all-wheel drive.
so Duc that you can buy a chain, it is, but of course it’s definitely not it.

Che I did not understand. where is this coil located? in the front axle is it simple? we all climbed with specialists, they saw such a razdatka for the first time. they first looked for a pneumatic system in the front axle. but her bye-bye.

permanent all-wheel drive.
electromagnetic coil inside the package case. Well, and handouts of friction discs, the clutch is so Without. to say this package TOD could not steer the ratio of the moments on the axles.

Thanks for the answer. But. I understand that it’s not about what kind of “permanent all-wheel drive” we are talking about. In all descriptions for this model, handouts are written: “As soon as there is a difference in speeds between the front and rear axles (removable rear), that is, the wheel sensors will begin to slip. electrics (automatically) electronics connects the front axle for how”. In stabilization! so I thought that there should be something to turn on the front axle. just found this motor which also can.
works do not bathe and buy immediately electromagnetic friction, coil discs, chain (something I'm going to lip.) and rolled out to remove the transfer case?
It seems to slowly understand:
Listen to my thoughts (based on the English version of the Transmission manual page TR-158):

1. clearly It says we will call it the complete control unit of the TCCM drive, collecting signals from:
A) the position of the throttle sensor (I don’t understand this signal for hell) + ABS (I wonder if I turned it off what then),
B) brakes + neutral (apparently these are the conditions for switching on in the forced LOW switching mode)

C) some REAR SPEED and FRONT how many - on SPEED I understood these are the speed sensors of the rear and front axles, which are installed in the razdatka. IT? IS IT SO OR AM I DOING SOMETHING?
D) the switch mode knob itself.

2. And outgoing signals
A) on Motor - the same engine that hangs outside the handout
B) on the electromagnetic - EMC clutch

3. As soon as the speeds appear to be inconsistent, the TCSM should turn on: the “motor” is electromagnetic and outside the clutch inside the transfer case. EXPLAIN ON THE FUCK HUMANLY NEED THIS MOTOR.I judge (understood from this photocopy of the document) that it somehow includes a planetary gearbox. that is, it cuts in a lower one. So. is it a transmission?

4. The electromagnetic clutch, in turn, begins to connect the front axle, that is, to transmit the torque through the circuit.

5. Question: If the rear wheels begin to slip on ice, for example. then the system should start to connect the four-wheel drive. Well, the score still didn’t go anywhere on the chain. Here it is clear that everyone turned on and helped. and why this should include a lowered case (the notorious motor). what am i not understanding? We are driving at a speed of 50 km / h, the rear wheels begin to slip. and what will happen to us? low or what? no push? Does the “Maybe” motor turn on only in LOW mode? And in Auto mode, only the chain? I just couldn't find any wiring diagrams.
If the circuit is only in auto mode, then there are no questions.

6. Causes Possible breakdowns of the front axle
1. stretched out to me - the chain is unlikely! Why: usually when a chain is pulled out (especially when a gear is installed like a chain in our case) there should be noise, a knock and so on - which I have in general. Or maybe someone removed my chain? there :ag:

2. The electromagnetic clutch does not work. possibly due to viscous wear of the coupling. erased and everything. Well, just change it and that's it. quite difficult to check. first, although I think it is necessary to check the voltage on whether it is supplied or not. if it is supplied, disassemble the transfer case and see what is with the clutch. if you don't search. breakage or weak contact.

I WANT MY SECOND CASE.

By the way, there is a sensor that shows on the panel that all-wheel drive is on. I mean that the light on the panel lights up for me. but no sense. purely logically, then the sensor itself stands on the handout motor and simply monitors its extreme positions. Is it so?

Well, so far everything is like.
A huge hello to everyone, my brother appeared due to misfortune, the JX-250 you have, I look like this crap, let's figure it out further together.
as, I understand the motor is needed only for the planetary gear, and when turning the position to the LOW wheel, the TCCM unit, having found out from the sensors of all that the car is standing, turns on the motor on the net and at the same time gives the command el. EMC magnetic coil to turn on the multi-plate clutch - a few seconds to think (I have it in any way lowered) and in the case the gear and all-wheel drive are on.
the front turns on, when a TCCM signal about the speed difference comes from the ABC sensors to the unit, then the TCCM signal only sends a signal to the EMC coil;
“” REAR some SPEED and FRONT SPEED - as far as I understand it, the front and rear speed sensors are installed in the razdatka axles ””

-for what I also need, I didn’t quite understand, probably the TCCM block needs a signal for something, about everything that turned on.
As for the lamp about turning on the full drive, I asked this question in the forum about half a year ago, and received an answer that it does not turn on for TOD's handouts, but only lights up at the moment of switching on, it is for EST's handouts.
JX-yourself, did you look at the quality of the oil in the razdatka at 250?
And understood? not yet, when I disconnected my plug at the front, it didn’t work for me, the low one didn’t naturally start either, but the low switch lamp turned on, maybe you really have problems with the electrics?
I talked today (by phone) with a familiar “master” on handouts from “nothing” Rolf didn’t learn anything new, along the way the guy was the only one, he enlightened me that it was useful to find out that turning on the low gear fork is very easy to break during disassembly, so be careful.
I myself decided to purchase a chain, a multi-plate clutch, and all oil seals, as the details will be, so general.

I will analyze how the details will be about all my actions, I will state everything in detail.
hello again to all who follow the topic.
a lion
Preved, JX, Preved Uncle Leva!
Let's try to figure it out together.
1.
A). throttle position sensor.The diesel does not have a throttle valve, but there is a position pedal sensor (APS). TSSM quite cunningly redistributes the moments between the axles, as I wrote already, from 10/90 to 50/50. The sensor signal is needed for confident overclocking. From the ABS, he is only interested in one signal - “ABS in operation”.
B) brakes and neutral - yes, everything is correct.
V). Rear Speed and front speed - speed sensors for the rotation of the transfer case shafts (cardans). mismatch At rotational speeds, the TCCM blocks as a result, in the clutch of which the front and rear axles are engaged rigidly and the moment is distributed 50/50. This is something like a center differential lock.

3. The motor is needed to stick in a series of low gears using the fork itself, which you saw at the sorent. Another thing for me, the matter is not clear to me, why the heck is seven positions for him.

4. The electromagnetic clutch always transmits a part of the torque to the front axle, but allows for a slight slippage of the front axle, while playing the role of an interaxle differential with its multi-plate clutch. I got the impression that the coil on the signal is of an impulse nature, and the frequency allows the impulses to steer the ratio of the moments on the axes.

5. The motor turns on only in the LOW position of the selector as usual. In razdatki AUTO mode, he does not play.

6. I also think that the problem is in the electromagnetic coil. Yes, most likely it is in the electromagnetic coil or its connectors. because if the ponizhayka turns on, then the motor is still alive. The chain may be worth buying because the people here have already come across it on the TOD handouts.

Well, like everything. And, this is exactly what permanent four-wheel drive is, i.e. The front axle is always hooked through the chain, but at the same time, depending on the mode of motion, it is fed differently. And the role of the center differential is performed by the notorious electromagnetic clutch (coil + friction disc pack), which do not work for you.

Video (click to play).

edited Post by ColonelU: 31 March 2008 – 23:44

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