DIY tod sorento transfer case repair

Some malfunction of the transfer case KIA Sorento:

• 1. Crunch during overclocking
• 2. "Kicks" when speed increases
• 3. Lack of all-wheel drive
• 4. Too much resistance to movement of the car when the front wheels are completely turned out
• 5. Oil leaks from under the oil seal of the front and rear universal joint flange.
• 6. Backlash of the rear universal joint flange
• 7. Backlash of the front universal joint flange
• 8. Rapid darkening of the oil in the transfer case.
• 9. Blinking of the LOW indicator
• 10. Does not downshift (LOW)

Transfer case repair we start with computer diagnostics and then check all electrical components of the dispenser. If all electrical components are in working order, then proceed to the elimination of mechanical faults.

The approximate cost of work for repair razdaki KIA Sorento until 2009 in our technical center:

Computer diagnostics electrical components of the transfer case 500 rubles.

Removing the installation of the transfer case

-5000 RUB (if the box is automatic)

-7000 rubles (if the box is mechanic)

Disassembly / assembly of the transfer case 6000 rbl

Changing the oil in the transfer case 500 rubles, carried out every 50,000 km.

Any repair of a transfer case in our auto technical center begins with diagnostics. Diagnostics helps to establish an accurate diagnosis of a malfunction, and therefore to carry out its repair at a higher quality level.

Malfunctions of the Kia Sorento transfer case are expressed in a hum when the car is moving, it is difficult to turn on a downshift or the impossibility of turning it on, extraneous sounds when turned on and increased operating noise.

Most often, the repair of the Kia Sorento transfer case of TOD technology is associated with the restoration of the electromagnetic clutch, due to the worn out friction clutches, as well as leaking oil seals.

When the coupling is worn, the following occurs. In normal operation, the drive is carried out to the rear axle. When the wheels of the rear axle slip, the shaft transmitting the force to it begins to rotate faster than the shaft going to the front universal joint, which is fixed by the speed sensors on the shafts. The data goes to the TSSM unit and it gives a command to the EMC coil and the electromagnet turns on the electromagnetic clutch. Further, the rotation is transferred to the chain and then to the lower shaft of the front universal joint. But since the clutch clutches are out of order (burned out), there is no torque transmission to the front axle and the car remains only rear-wheel drive.

In turn, clutch wear products appear in the oil and enter the pump, which leads to its rapid failure.

Deep risks and seizures appear on the working surface of the pump, wear of the gear teeth progresses, which leads to a decrease in performance or a complete failure of the pump in operation. This affects almost all parts of the transfer case and leads to their rapid wear, shaft bearings suffer, since they are all open type and wear products of clutches drastically reduce their "life".

Myself Kia Sorento transfer case repair It is divided into several stages, where the troubleshooting stage is important, which makes it possible to draw a conclusion about the reason for the failure of the handout and draw up a list of replaced parts.

By doing Kia Sorento transfer case repair, often requires replacement of the chain when it is pulled out, the main bearing of the drive shaft on the rear universal joint and the thrust bearing of the clutches, as well as its support washer.

All refurbished transfer cases are covered by an unlimited mileage warranty.

Removal / installation of automatic transmission

the discount is valid for repair work: removal / installation of automatic transmission, subject to a comprehensive repair with us

mrdoggy, if I'm not mistaken, there is only a need for a puller for one bearing, everything else is easy and simple to change (locking clutches, etc., not counting the mass of bolts that can stick to it.))

I ask you to correct it (for educational purposes). it looks simple and will not be difficult = disassemble - replace - assemble, tk. there is enough information on it and there are a lot of examples.

Vilen 30.09.09, 16:30:53

Toadmaster Messages: 2263 Registered: 26.07.07, 19:00:52 Where: Kharkov Age: 41 Auto: 4x4

soroton 30.09.09, 19:10:08

chatter Messages: 484 Registered: 10.08.09, 06:24:10 Where: Kiev, Obolon Age: 42 Auto: Was
Sorento 2.5CRDI, AT, TOD Real name: Petro

Vilen 30.09.09, 20:04:53

Toadmaster Messages: 2263 Registered: 26.07.07, 19:00:52 Where: Kharkov Age: 41 Auto: 4x4

Murtuz 01.10.09, 10:53:31

chatter Messages: 405 Registered: 18.01.09, 20:21:40 Where: Sevastopol-Evpatoria Age: 39 Auto: Kia Sorento 2.5 EX AT Real name: Vadim

02.10.09, 08:04:31

There is such a thing - for example, with a sharp (and then - pedal halfway) start on the asphalt - a second squeal of rubber is a normal phenomenon

experienced Messages: 594 Registered: 28.08.09, 08:15:29 Where: Kiev, Academtown Age: 42 Auto: VAG diesel Real name: Sasha

Vilen 02.10.09, 18:46:17

meager squeal, because esp and full drive. And without it.

Added after 8 minutes 26 seconds:

Toadmaster Messages: 2263 Registered: 26.07.07, 19:00:52 Where: Kharkov Age: 41 Auto: 4x4

SERG 27 15.12.09, 23:16:12

4 never put different rubber or rubber with different degree of wear on a car with TOD! The system goes crazy for this, my case. It's good that I immediately began to fight the symptoms, otherwise the handout could lie. [/ Quote]

... but in any case - the backside wears out faster than before, what to do in this case, to throw out the worn-out rubber by a third?

companion Messages: 42 Registered: 17.08.09, 00:50:59 Where: Odessa Age: 41 Auto: kia sorento new 2.2 СRDI 2012 Real name: Sergei

Vilen 15.12.09, 23:36:10

Toadmaster Messages: 2263 Registered: 26.07.07, 19:00:52 Where: Kharkov Age: 41 Auto: 4x4

SERG 27 15.12.09, 23:39:31

companion Messages: 42 Registered: 17.08.09, 00:50:59 Where: Odessa Age: 41 Auto: kia sorento new 2.2 СRDI 2012 Real name: Sergei

monstrilo 15.12.09, 23:39:47

And for uniform wear, the rubber must be periodically changed. In the manual, by the way, it is written and shown in the pictures. I had 120 thousand tires on the Chevy Niva. the wear was uniform and so she left on this rubber. and the comrade had the same tires without rearrangements, and the rear one was like new, and the front one became like a slippery one.

knowing Messages: 75 Registered: 12.11.09, 22:55:44 Where: Crimea, Simferopol Age: 43 Auto: Sorento 2.5 EX, AT, 08g.v. Real name: Vladimir

SERG 27 16.12.09, 00:12:02

in short, there can be no question of putting the winter wheel only on the rear wheels, if I have a TOD?

Added after 2 minutes 44 seconds:
I dug it out:
Algorithm of the transmission with TOD
in the presence of TODa Sorento is a full-fledged all-terrain vehicle with PERMANENT all-wheel drive! The transmission has a multi-plate clutch (of the Borg & Warner type), which transmits the moment to the front axle almost always after the start of movement, but in different proportions, namely:
AUTO mode
1. Sharp start (50:50).
2.Normal driving with economical fuel consumption (0: 100

30:70).
3.Acceleration in motion (30:70

50:50).
4. Normal movement controlled (20:80

30:70).
5. Driving on a slippery road (30:70

40:60).
6. Driving downhill 50:50.
7. ABS operation during braking 30:70.
8.Braking control 0: 100

companion Messages: 42 Registered: 17.08.09, 00:50:59 Where: Odessa Age: 41 Auto: kia sorento new 2.2 СRDI 2012 Real name: Sergei

soroton 12.01.10, 23:02:43

I changed the oil in the razdatka, blah, the car became completely different, it became ALL-WHEEL-DRIVE, and before it was like “automatic 4Hi engagement”. Those. now I can say that before all these intermediate 10:90 - 40:60 there were no, the campaign only turned on 50/50 with sharp acceleration and tail slip.
The car began to be able to brake with the engine

Previously, the effect of releasing the gas pedal at speed was very weak. The behavior on the road has become more all-wheel drive. Yes, the jerks are gone. The car passed only 4 thousand from the passenger compartment, the cheapest red slurry was flooded in Lutsk. I have filled in ENEOS ATF III.

There is really one drawback - before, by twitching, I knew exactly when the front row was rowing

but it’s clear that it’s better now.

chatter Messages: 484 Registered: 10.08.09, 06:24:10 Where: Kiev, Obolon Age: 42 Auto: Was
Sorento 2.5CRDI, AT, TOD Real name: Petro

Vilen 12.01.10, 23:57:18

Toadmaster Messages: 2263 Registered: 26.07.07, 19:00:52 Where: Kharkov Age: 41 Auto: 4x4

brand 01.02.10, 21:52:53

where did you change it and how much did it cost?
is it worth doing with scheduled maintenance from the officials or is it better without them on the sly?

I drove about 40tyk and only read about the smooth connection of the front end on the forums

in real life, my TOD works like this: we drive into dry sand, drive until a high shaft is squeezed out in front of the front wheels, we rest against this shaft with PASSIVE front wheels, the rear slips, shoveling the shaft from behind, with a jerk and a loud thud it turns on sharply in front, the car moves forward and bites up (runs over the shaft) by 10-20 centimeters, (then apparently the front end turns off), we sink with our nose down and again we rest against the shaft, a dull knock, again forward / up, we sink. and so on in a circle. With a fool, if you unsuccessfully press the brake, you can get at the same time a shaft of sand in front of the fart and an ALREADY dug shaft behind the tailgate, i.e. the classic “sailed”.

If you turn on the 4xLov knob, then the car smoothly and confidently SWIMS forward, even changing gears up, i.e. it seems that the lowered has nothing to do with it, but the point is in the hard blocking.

companion Messages: 35 Registered: 28.02.08, 10:00:41 Where: Kiev, Obolon Auto: Sorento 2.5crdi AT

soroton 01.02.10, 22:15:43

brand wrote: where did you change it and how much did it cost?
is it worth doing with scheduled maintenance from the officials or is it better without them on the sly?

I drove about 40tk

with a loud thud, it turns on abruptly before

If the officials have a normal oil, but you can’t bother yourself, then you can do it with them.
I changed it myself in the garage, because, among other things, the officials pour the oil that they have, and I filled in exactly what, according to people's reviews, works well, and with the money that the replacement cost I bought the tulips in the garage for the future

I do not know what you have filled from the factory, but if the same is what I had, then there is already shoe polish, IMHO.

the fact that in a jerk on the sand it may not deviate much from the norm, I have not yet had a chance to ride on open sand, I will not say for sure, but it should not knock.

chatter Messages: 484 Registered: 10.08.09, 06:24:10 Where: Kiev, Obolon Age: 42 Auto: Was
Sorento 2.5CRDI, AT, TOD Real name: Petro

In order to repair the transfer case, you need to have a set of wrenches, a bearing puller and an assistant with you. The transfer case can be removed without removing the cross member and exhaust pipe. We remove the front cardan, then move the rear cardan aside and remove the balancing element, the latter is held by four bolts.

Pour oil from the distributor into the prepared vessel and unscrew it from the gearbox. Next, we disconnect the wire connections, there are three of them. We pull the dispenser from side to side and pull it out of its seat. Next, we unscrew the shank attachment nut, remove the electric motor, then divide the transfer case in half. We remove all unnecessary from the shaft, then remove the retaining ring, dismantle the clutch together with the clutches.

Remove two stars with the chain. There is a magnet near the oil filter, where metal chips accumulate, we take it out and clean it. We dismantle the oil filter and pump with shaft directly. We take a wooden block and carefully knock out the bearing of the front universal joint. Keep in mind that this very bearing is pressed into its seat, so it will be very difficult to remove it; you will have to use a tricky device.

We clean and wipe every detail from oil, re-assemble the basket with clutches. It remains to clean and assemble everything in the reverse order. If you work slowly. But with knowledge of the matter and with all the tools and spare parts, you can do it in one working day, although, as a rule, even in a car service, this work is done in a few days.

During installation, you must carefully tighten all the bolts and do not forget to pour new oil into the transfer case. Repair of the transfer case solves many problems, now there will be no extraneous sounds from the checkpoint in the car, the gears will switch more clearly. As for advice on self-repair, one thing can be said here - it is better to repair with a knowledgeable assistant who will prompt the sequence of performing a particular operation.

Any repair of a transfer case in our auto technical center begins with diagnostics. Diagnostics helps to establish an accurate diagnosis of a malfunction, and therefore to carry out its repair at a higher quality level.

Malfunctions of the Kia Sorento transfer case are expressed in a hum when the car is moving, it is difficult to turn on a downshift or the impossibility of turning it on, extraneous sounds when turned on and increased operating noise.

Most often, the repair of the Kia Sorento transfer case of TOD technology is associated with the restoration of the electromagnetic clutch, due to the worn out friction clutches, as well as leaking oil seals.

When the coupling is worn, the following occurs. In normal operation, the drive is carried out to the rear axle. When the wheels of the rear axle slip, the shaft transmitting the force to it begins to rotate faster than the shaft going to the front universal joint, which is fixed by the speed sensors on the shafts. The data goes to the TSSM unit and it gives a command to the EMC coil and the electromagnet turns on the electromagnetic clutch. Further, the rotation is transferred to the chain and then to the lower shaft of the front universal joint. But since the clutch clutches are out of order (burned out), there is no torque transmission to the front axle and the car remains only rear-wheel drive.

In turn, clutch wear products appear in the oil and enter the pump, which leads to its rapid failure.

Deep risks and seizures appear on the working surface of the pump, wear of the gear teeth progresses, which leads to a decrease in performance or a complete failure of the pump in operation. This affects almost all parts of the transfer case and leads to their rapid wear, shaft bearings suffer, since they are all open type and wear products of clutches drastically reduce their "life".

Myself Kia Sorento transfer case repair It is divided into several stages, where the troubleshooting stage is important, which makes it possible to draw a conclusion about the reason for the failure of the handout and draw up a list of replaced parts.

By doing Kia Sorento transfer case repair, often requires replacement of the chain when it is pulled out, the main bearing of the drive shaft on the rear universal joint and the thrust bearing of the clutches, as well as its support washer.

All refurbished transfer cases are covered by an unlimited mileage warranty.

Removal / installation of automatic transmission

the discount is valid for repair work: removal / installation of automatic transmission, subject to a comprehensive repair with us

It also happens: a car came to diagnose the engine and the fuel system, did everything that was necessary, and then the client asks: "I still have a couple of faults, could you at the same time see what can be done?"
Thus, the Sorento 2.5 ended up in our repair. CRDI VGT 2005 onwards with a complaint about problems with the control of four-wheel drive.
On the cars with which we had to deal until recently, a fairly simple four-wheel drive control scheme was implemented. Either the drive was turned on by an actuator located on the dispenser, controlled by vacuum from an electro-pneumatic valve, or an electric motor was located on the dispenser, turning the drive engaging shank, which has up to four fixed positions (for example 2H, 4H, 2LOW, 4LOW) tracked by the positioner. Such an electric motor, both externally and internally, resembles a wiper motor.
This car has a more complex four-wheel drive control scheme: " TOD ”Or“ Torque On Demand ”- active distribution of torque between the axles.More information about the device can be found, for example, in this article.
One of the external distinguishing features of such a system is a two-position shift handle:

The essence of the problem lies in the fact that when you try to turn on a lower gear, the indicator “4LOW”On the instrument cluster starts flashing, but the downshift is not engaged.
Having connected the scanner, we saw the errors:
1. In the engine control unit: P0700 Transmission control system malfunction
2. In the ABS unit: CAN timeout of the four-wheel drive system.
3. In the transfer case control unit:
P1734 Speed ​​sensor referense - low input
P1730 Front speed sensor - low input
The indelible was left alone: P1734
The question arises: to which of the speed sensors does this error refer?
There are two of them on the razdatka - Front cardan speed sensor (behind the motor)

and Rear propeller shaft speed sensor

(see the manual at the link above)
yes there is one more on the rear cardan.

The Avtodat manual found in the car also did not answer this question - in the Russian translation, the decryption of errors, taken from there, looks like this:

We alternately measure the voltage (signal level) between the terminals of the distributor control unit B6, B17 and mass (output signal of speed sensors), we get 2.8V, and according to the manual it should be about five. In any case, we hang out and rotate the wheel with the gear on - we see fluctuations from zero to 2.8 V. That is, there are impulses, but their amplitude is small, which is actually said in the deciphering of the error P1734 ... We check the supply voltage of the speed sensors (between the terminals A8 and AT 8 on the diagram) and we see the same 2.8 V. Disconnect the connector on the white transfer case. The connectors are in the figure below.

And we measure the supply voltage of the sensors on it (pinout on the diagram in the lower right corner) and see: the voltage returned to normal - 5V. Having run a little with a voltmeter from the distributor control unit to the connectors on the distributor itself, we understand: when the connector of the speed sensors is connected (the electromagnetic clutch is also controlled on this connector), the supply voltage drops to from 5V to 2.8 V. It remains to find the cause of this phenomenon. Data for testing the speed sensors could not be found, but it is quite possible to compare their resistances. We measure the resistance at the distributor connector (in the diagram in the lower right corner) between the positive and negative terminals of each of the sensors.
Front sensor 120 ohm
Rear sensor 300 ohm
We assume that the front sensor is faulty, bite off the corresponding positive wire, put the connector in place and see: the supply voltage has returned to normal. We read errors: P1734 finally disappeared but appeared P1730 .
We change the front sensor (it is taken out a little with the use of WD-40 and swinging). To access the sensor, the motor must be removed.

After replacing the sensor, the parameters returned to normal, the errors in all blocks disappeared, the downshift began to turn on.

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Is registered: 16.03.2007
Posts: 44
Location: Dolgoprudny Mosk. region
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I looked through all the topics related to the distribution of TOD, I did not find an answer, so I bring up a new topic. I'll start over: last weekend I got stuck in the snow out of the blue and found the front end not working; the downshift turns on with a characteristic jolt, the downshift lamp lights up, and the front end does not spin.In a garage, I hung up the car, everything works fine: you turn on the gear for me (automatic transmission), the back starts spinning, about half a turn, then the front end starts to rotate (you need to look carefully, the difference is almost invisible to the eye, at first I thought that everything starts to rotate at once) , while sitting in the pit listening to the razdatku and did not hear anything. That is, in my case, the front end does not work under load. The forum has repeatedly said that the front end on the TOD includes a multi-disk electromagnetic clutch, I carefully studied the transfer case, I did not find an electric magnetic clutch there, it looks like there is a mechanism like an overrunning clutch, and it seems to me that a skiff came to him. who personally analyzed and knows TOD:
1. Part 47384,47384 titled (spring and cam) - what is this and why?
2. Part 47368 called (clutch) - this is the "electromagnetic clutch", then where are the wires to it?
3.What did I get into, what to prepare for?

Leningrader
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GURU-HENDOVED

Is registered: 25.10.2006
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Part 47384 - Front Cardan Joint Clutch Solenoid Coil
Part 47368 - Front Cardan Coupling Clutch Friction Pack

change electric magnetic clutch
The price is about 3 to 7 thousand rubles.

Is registered: 16.03.2007
Posts: 44
Location: Dolgoprudny Mosk. region
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Added after 1 minute:

Is registered: 16.03.2007
Posts: 44
Location: Dolgoprudny Mosk. region
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ColonelU
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Hello, Uncle Lyovchik!
A conscientious repairman would most likely not make recommendations in advance. First, disassemble, troubleshoot, then buy the necessary parts and assemble.
Maybe you need to change the clutch, or maybe the transfer case control unit, by the way, there are no errors in the transfer case for an hour?
I am not an expert on transfer cases, but judging by the fact that TOD changes the ratio of the moments on the front and rear axles depending on the driving conditions, the transfer case control unit measures a fairly large number of parameters - from the rotation speed of the transfer case shafts to the engine operating modes, and to the electromagnetic coil in this case, a time-varying voltage, possibly a pulsed voltage, may come.
But this is of course speculative reasoning.

_________________
Best regards, Alexey
sorento 2.5 manual transmission 2009

Forum on oils, additives and lubricants

Message Gubkin »11 Jan 2016, 09:59

3. Oil recommendations

1) According to the general catalog of the selection of oils, the original oil is recommended
In the razdatka TOD oil Hyundai TOD 75W / 80 02200-00130

4) You will not find this in any instruction. These oils have been tested at your own peril and risk, but as practice has shown, they work perfectly.
These are Oils for LSD (Limited Slip or Friction) differentials

The limited slip differential with the clutch pack is very similar to the transfer case.
I myself have personally used Mobilube Syn LS 75w-90 and the experience was positive. Before connecting smoothly, without jerks. Since it happens on Dehron.

The volume of the filled oil - 1.7 l

Conclusion
- Do not run to look for some kind of exclusive oil for these handouts (such as Hyundai TOD 75W / 80 02200-00130)
- A good choice of MOBIL ATF LT 71141 (which by the way is recommended in old 5HP19 machines for audi) apparently has increased frictional properties in comparison with the usual Dexron III
- The frequency of oil change in the instructions is extremely suboptimal. According to the instructions, refueling is unlimited for normal conditions and 90 thousand km for severe conditions.
In practice, after 15 thousand km, jerks already appear on Dehron. Therefore, this interval is optimal.
- For frequent off-road use, it is better to choose Limited Slip 75w-90 oils. This will significantly prolong the life of the chain, which will stretch rather quickly under difficult conditions.
- similar transfer cases to BMW with xDrive system (ATC300 / ATC350 / ATC400 / ATC500 / ATC700 transfer cases) require a special Shell TF0870 oil (aka BMW 83220397244). In terms of viscosity, this oil is an analogue of Dexron VI. But there is no chain in the handouts. I don’t say, but if it’s expensive or difficult to buy this oil, then the usual Dexron 3 or MOBIL ATF LT 71141 should be suitable.

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Main page "Kia repair" Kia Sorento BL transfer case repair

Kia Sorento BL transfer case repair

• Model: Kia Sorento BL
• Body type: station wagon
• Year, mileage: 2005, 123 500 km
• Gearbox, drive: automatic full
• Engine: 3.5 gasoline

The reason for petition to car service Kia Sorento "Auto-Mig":

• Sorento transfer case repair
  

Description of the problem (handout - malfunctions diagnosed by the owner):

• increased noise when driving
• jerks of the transmission during hard acceleration

Diagnostics handouts revealed the following:

• Low oil level in the transfer case, resulting in premature wear of the gears.

Completed work:

• removal and installation of the transfer case
• transfer case repair

Consumables used:

• oil in the handout of Kia Sorento

Sorento transfer case repair

The cost of repairing the transfer case on the Kia Sorentom can be checked with the master of the auto technical center

Questions to those who personally know and understand TOD:
1. Part 47384, 47384 under the name (spring and cam) - what is what? for
2. Part 47368 called (this) is a clutch and there is an "electric magnetic clutch", then where are the wires to it?
3. What I got, what I looked at

prepare? TOD did not find all the topics related to the distribution of the answer, so I raise a new one.
the topic first: last weekend I got stuck in a flat place on the snow and found that the front end was not lowered; it works with a characteristic jolt, the low gear lamp lights up, and the front end does not spin. In the garage, I hung out the car in conditions, everything works fine: you turn on the gear for me (automatic transmission), it starts spinning about, the back half a turn, then it starts to rotate to look (the front must be carefully, the difference is not almost noticeable to the eye, at first I thought that everything starts to rotate at once) , while sitting in listening to the razdatku pit and did not hear anything. That is, in my case, the front end does not work under load. The forum has repeatedly said that the front end on the TOD multi-disc includes an electromagnetic clutch, carefully studied the transfer case, the electric magnetic clutch is not there, I found it seems there is a mechanism like an overrunning clutch, and it seems to me that a skiff came to him.
Questions to those who personally know and understand TOD:
1. Part 47384, 47384 under the name (spring and cam) - what is what? for
2. Part 47368 called (this) is a clutch and there is an "electric magnetic clutch", then where are the wires to it?
3. What I got, what I am writing to

prepare? two weeks later

Friends tell me, I think correctly;
And again, even to disassemble the distributor, can I replace the chain right away? (mileage 137000km - chain-what)
native voltage on which plugs, on which modes should they be?
Is it possible to ring without removing (47384 Part - electromagnetic coil of the front universal joint coupling)?
In general, how can I more accurately check what to buy and what to order?

_________________
Well, come uncle, here Leva, let's talk about painful
I repeat, I am not a specialist in handouts for Todov. But I also love pictures Duc. look, as I understand it, the coil is an electromagnetic clutch and 47384 multi-plate 47368 and together form an electromagnetic clutch for connecting all-wheel drive. Depending on the control signal unit for the transfer case, the coil either bites down, then the grip is stronger, which actually allows the distribution of steering torque between the axles, which, depending on the dependence, varies from 10/90 to 50/50. There is also 0/100 (mode failsafe), perhaps you are watching it. But of course there may be simple wear of the clutch, although I have not heard any complaints from you before.But about the chain from time to time, questions are heard, so you can buy what just in case, just miss the main thing with the catalog number. Judging by the forums, some of our colleagues are already on this rake by Todovskaya (the chain can be of different widths, I realized how much).
In general, with the same question, you can still walk around the Sorent forums, they have TOD from a barrel of that one.
Let's

Let's discuss.
so Means. I hung mine up and I see that in the modes of all the front does not work. more precisely, the wheels as but spin only with your hand you will take them immediately so they stop.

Then he did the following. the electric motor was disconnected on the razdatka which should include the full drive. and lo and behold it works. I tried to hold it with my hand, but nothing happened.
Conclusions:
1. My tried, I didn’t make a mistake to brake the propeller shaft front. can the inside of the bridge itself? But I think this is a handout.
2. Something is in vryatli (since I have nothing more than an electric motor, which would be responsible for the full inclusion of the drive). And what the hell knows him. but I think:
A) something with a chain.
B) according to the scheme, the rotation is not transmitted there. coupling Nearby.
C) that there was a distribution box from the KIA and there he noticed a fork. aluminum. maybe she's here.

erased so far that's all. I think to buy just in case ... and I'll go to disassemble the distributor. who can still advise that.

Hello JX!
Without us and Right now, Lyova, we'll figure it out. Your pretty observations are curious. But the fact is that the TODovskaya on the razdatka motor drives a lowering and the fork is needed there in order to push the lowered gear of a number of gears and it seems like nothing else for. And there is a clutch, of course. It is electromagnetic consisting of a coil and a pack of discs. Maybe you moved the wire to the coil during the trip? In any case, there will be no coil without any all-wheel drive.
So Duc that you can buy a chain, this is, but of course it is definitely not her.

Che I did not understand. and where is this coil? in the front axle, is it simple? we all climbed with the specialists, they saw such a razdatka for the first time. they first looked for the pneumatic system in the front axle. but her bye.

permanent four-wheel drive.
electromagnetic coil inside the case package. Well, and hand-outs of friction discs, the clutch is so Without. say of this package TOD could not steer the moments on the axes by the ratio.

Thanks for the answer. But. I do not understand what kind of "permanent all-wheel drive" we are talking about. In all the descriptions for this model, handouts are written: “As soon as there is a difference in speed between the front and rear axles (removed from the rear), that is, the wheels will begin to slip by the sensors. electrical (automatic) electronics connects the front axle for both ”. In stabilization! so I thought that there should be something to turn on the front axle. just found this little motor which, moreover, Can.
doesn’t work and buy immediately electromagnetic friction, coil disks, chain (something I’ll go to lip.) And rolled out to remove the distributor?
It seems that he began to sort it out on the sly:
Hear my thoughts (based on the English version of Transmission manual page TR-158):

1.Clearly it says we will call it the TCCM drive full control unit collecting signals from:
A) the position of the throttle sensor (I don’t need a fucking signal) + ABS (I wonder if I nafig cut it out, then what),
B) brakes + neutral (apparently these are the conditions for switching on in the forced LOW switching mode)

C) some REAR SPEED and FRONT how many - on SPEED I understood these are the speed sensors of the rear and front axles, which are installed in the transfer case. IT? Am I so, or am I drowning?
D) the knob itself for switching modes.

2. And outgoing signals
A) on Motor - the same engine that hangs outside the handout
B) on the electromagnetic - EMC clutch

3. As soon as the mismatch appears, the TSSM must turn on: the "motor" electromagnetic and outside the clutch inside the hand-out box. EXPLAIN ON THE FUCK HUMAN NEEDS THIS MOTOR.I am judging (I understood from this photocopy of the document) that it somehow includes a planetary gearbox. Ie cuts in the lowered So. is it a transfer?

4. The electromagnetic clutch in its turn begins to connect the front axle, that is, to transmit the torque through the chain.

5. Question: If, for example, the rear wheels begin to slip on the ice. then the system should start engaging four-wheel drive. Well, on the chain, the account still did not go far. here it is clear that everyone turned on and helped. and why such a case include a reduced (notorious motor). what I do not understand? We are driving at a speed of 50 km / h, the rear wheels begin to slip. and what will be cut to us? reduced or what? there will be no push? Does the motor “Maybe” turn on only in LOW mode? and in Auto mode, only the circuit? I just didn't find the electrical circuits.
If the chain is only in auto mode, then there are no questions.

6.Causes Possible damage to the front axle
1. Stretching out to mine - on the chain is unlikely! Why: usually when the chain is pulled (especially when the toothed chain is installed like a chain in our case) there should be noise, knocking, etc. - which is what I have at all. And no, maybe someone took off the chain from me? there: ag:

2. The electromagnetic clutch does not work. possibly due to viscous wear of the coupling. erased and that's all. Well, here it is just to change it and that's all. it is rather difficult to verify. at first, although I think it is necessary to check the voltage whether it is supplied or not. if it is fed - disassemble the distributor and see what is wrong with the clutch. if not looking. an open or weak contact is given.

I'M BELTING AT ME A SECOND CASE.

By the way, is where the sensor that shows on the dashboard that the four-wheel drive is on. I mean, the light on the panel lights up. but no sense. purely logically, then the sensor itself is on the hand-out motor and simply monitors its extreme positions. Is it so?

Well, so far, everything seems to be.
Huge hello to everyone, I have a brother unfortunately, I look at you JX-250 crap, so let's figure it out further together.
how, I understand the motor is only needed for the planetary gearbox, and when turning the position in the LOW wheel, the TCCM unit, having found out from the sensors of all that the car is standing, is not turning on the motor and at the same time giving the command to the e-mail. the magnetic EMC coil, turn on the multi-disc clutch, for a few seconds to think (I have a lower one in any case) and in case the gear and all-wheel drive are engaged.
turns on, but the Front end, when the TCCM signal about the speed difference comes from the ABC sensors to the unit, the TCCM signal only sends the EMC coil, the leading discs will compress the chain sprocket will start rotating with the secondary shaft together with the transfer case - the front end is turned on
"" REAR some SPEED and FRONT SPEED - as far as I understood it, the speed sensors of the front and rear axles are installed in the transfer case ""

- for what, too, I do not quite understand, probably the block for the TCCM needs a signal for something, that everything that has turned on.
As for the lamp about turning on the full drive, I asked this question in the forum six months ago, and received the answer that the TOD's handouts do not turn on, but only lights up at the moment of switching on, it is for EST's handouts.
JX-yourself have you looked at the quality of the oil in the razdatka 250?
Do you understand? Not yet, when I disconnected my plug at the front end, it didn’t work for me, the lowered one naturally didn’t start either, but the lowered lamp turned on to blink, maybe you really have problems with the electrician?
I talked today (by phone) with a familiar “master” of handouts from “nothing” Rolf didn’t learn anything new, along the way the guy was the only one, he enlightened that it’s useful to find out that it is very easy to break the downshift when disassembling, so be careful.
I decided to buy a chain myself, a multi-plate clutch, and all the oil seals, as parts will be, so common.

I will analyze how the details will be about all my actions, I will explain everything in detail.
Hello again, everyone following the topic.
a lion
Hello JX Hello Uncle Lev!
Let's try to figure it out together.
1.
A). throttle position sensor.The diesel does not have a throttle valve, but there is a pedal position sensor (APS). The TSSM is quite cleverly redistributing the torques between the axles, as I already wrote, from 10/90 to 50/50. The sensor signal is needed for more confident overclocking. From the ABS, he is only interested in one signal - “ABS in operation”.
B) brakes and neutral - yes, everything is correct.
V). Rear Speed ​​and front speed - speed sensors of the transfer case shafts (cardan shafts). misalignment At rotation speeds, the TSSM blocks the result, in the clutch of which the front and rear axles are rigidly engaged and the torque is distributed 50/50. This is something like a center differential lock.

3. A motor is needed for sticking a row of low gears with the help of the fork that you saw at the Sorenta. Another thing to me, the matter is not clear myself, why the heck he has seven positions.

4. The electromagnetic clutch always transmits a part of the moment to the front axle, but allows a slight slip of the front axle, while playing the role of an interaxle differential with its multi-disc clutch. I got the impression that the coil for the signal is impulsive, and the chatsot allows the impulses to steer the ratio of the moments on the axes.

5. The motor turns on only in the LOW position of the selector normal. In the transfer case AUTO mode, it does not play.

6. Me too, I think the problem is in the electromagnetic coil. Yes, most likely in the electromagnetic coil or its connectors. Because if the lowering turns on, then the motor is still alive. The chain may be worth it because it’s worth buying because the people here have come across it already on TOD distribution boxes.

Well, that's all. And, this is just a permanent four-wheel drive, i.e. the front axle is always engaged through the chain, but at the same time, depending on the mode of movement, it is fed to it differently. And the role of the center differential is played by the notorious electromagnetic clutch (coil + friction disc pack), which do not work for you.

edited Post by ColonelU: 31 March 2008 - 23:44