DIY repair of the micro usb connector on the phone

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of the micro usb connector on the phone from a real wizard for the site my.housecope.com.

Hello everyone! Today I will talk about replacing the USB connector on the tablet. This replacement is unusual in that it had to be replaced with an ordinary soldering iron, without a soldering station. It all started with the fact that I was far from home, in a neighboring town. Friends, having learned that I was a radio amateur, immediately asked for help in repairing their devices 🙂 The first was a tablet with a loose USB connector, which did not even want to charge the tablet, it will be discussed here. To begin with, it was necessary to consider dismantling the broken connector, since it is very easy to damage the printed circuit board, especially with an ordinary soldering iron. It was decided to bite through the old connector with needle-nose pliers, and you need to bite through the upper end of the connector. But first, let's take a look at our “patient”. Remove the back cover:

In this tablet, it turned out to be latched, and under it is already the main aluminum cover, we see a bunch of screws, I have already unscrewed them above in the photo.

We look very carefully, have we forgotten some bolt, unscrewed everything that might prevent us from removing the back cover? - Okay, let's take it off.

Now you need to remove the board itself from the top of the tablet. The main thing is not to rush, otherwise we can break something, we check how and with what the board is attached to the tablet, in this tablet - on bolts and latches. Unscrew the bolts.

We disconnect all the connectors and cables from the board, in order to disconnect the cable, you just need to lift this connector clip up and pull the cable towards you:

Disconnect the display connector from the board, this tablet uses the connector as on laptops:

All the bolts were unscrewed, all the cables were disconnected, now you can remove the board for further manipulations.

Video (click to play).

We take it out carefully, as there are parts on the SMD board, and planar microcircuits, which are soldered only with a soldering hairdryer. And if SMD output parts and microcircuits can still be soldered with a soldering iron, then BGA only with a hairdryer. We carefully pry on the latches that hold the board, you need to pry with something soft, for example, I use an ordinary SIM card for this, or a bank plastic card. By the way, they also disassemble the plastic panels of all kinds of gadgets, since it is impossible to disassemble plastic cases with metal tools - it is very easy to damage or even break them. Here is the board itself:

You can start dismantling the broken connector, as I wrote above - my tool is far away, but I need to do it. We begin to bite through the old connector with needle-nose pliers, as shown in the photo below:

We open it very carefully, by bending up and down we break off the contacts so that the pieces of the pins remain on the contact pads of the board, the contacts themselves cannot be bitten off with needle-nose pliers - they will fly off the board along with the tracks. We can safely solder the rest of the connector and contacts.

In the photo, the contacts are not undermined, I just used a lot of tin for desoldering. Remove excess tin with copper wire or braid, clean and solder a new connector in place.

We solder it well, the connector pins were soldered with an ordinary 25 W soldering iron, and the connector itself was soldered to the board with a 40 W soldering iron. After checking for operability, we clean it from the gumboil and twist the tablet in the reverse order, observing accuracy.

It is worth soldering only with high-quality soldering irons, the heaters of which must be well insulated from the tip itself and the metal parts of the soldering iron itself. The soldering iron should not break through at all, and accumulate static electricity, so the breakdown of the soldering iron threatens, at best, with the failure of the soldered device, and at worst.Guess it yourself 🙂 Static electricity is dangerous to semiconductors: sensitive parts may break.

That's it, the replacement of the connector was successful, the repair is over. As you can see, even in the absence of the necessary tool and a lot of experience, a lot is possible in terms of restoring gadgets with your own hands. Until next time, dear readers. Especially for the site "Radio circuits" - BIOS.

Greetings to my readers! Today again the heading "From Master Sergei". We will show you how to do a budget repair of a USB - micro USB cable with your own hands. What we have in the beginning is a non-working cable with a micro USB connector. The cable owner is running out of money, so he asked for help for a few coins. Let's see what we can do!

Disassembly showed that the micro USB connector in this cable is composite and the plastic retainers inside the metal shell of the connector fell apart. This state of the connector is not uncommon, so the cheapest option is to replace the connector.

In conditions of budgetary repairs, it was decided to dig in the deposits. A micro USB connector was found in a white rubber case, cut off from some kind of cable.

Many people think that such connectors are non-separable. The way it is! But Russian ingenuity works constantly, so it didn't take long to open the connector with a sharp scalpel along the fusion seam.

Next, we just need to strip the wires in the cable being repaired and, according to the pinout of the USB connector, solder it to a successfully disassembled serviceable connector. Below is the pinout of the microUSB-USB cable without OTG and with it - nothing complicated.

The photo shows how the wires should be soldered to the connector according to the color of the braid.

We check ourselves with a voltmeter - we connect the USB to the charger and measure the supply voltage + 5 V. Everything is in order.

Master Sergey proposes to glue two parts of the rubber case with the help of Moment glue. We act according to the instructions - degrease, apply a thin layer of glue and squeeze the two parts to be glued.

Of course, they did not get into the black color of the cable, but they do not look at the budget horse (repair) in the teeth (in the connector). This completes the repair of the USB cable.

What do you do when you encounter such a breakdown? How do you repair your cable? Or buying a new one? Which company? We share in the comments - this information will come in handy for everyone.

Master Soldering and Master Sergei tried for you.

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Hello everyone. Today I will tell you in detail and show you how to change micro-USB connectors and other little things "on the knees", i.e. at home, without special skills and special professional expensive priblud and substances. Just armed with inspiration, always helping out with optimism, ingenuity, perseverance, patience and sufficient time.Yesterday they brought me a smartphone for repair Lumia Denim 630 with a faulty power socket, with the words: "Charging shows - but does not want to charge!" The smartphone looked monolithic, without screws and latches, I thought: “Well, here we go! Now I have to warm it up with a hair dryer! ”, Although after tinkering it turned out that it can be opened easily, since the insides lie in a lid, a“ trough ”which can be easily separated (on the internal latches). Those. the developers of Nokia have thought out everything, according to the military. For this they get a delicious like from me!The socket externally turned out to be in good condition, no cracks in the soldering were found, which means how often the malfunction was hidden in the erased contacts inside the connector. I decided to boldly change to a new one. After the repair, I disassembled the old socket and, indeed, the contacts were in mud, in “oil felt” and looked worn out. I forgot to take a picture, but in general what kind of connectors are killed, look at the photo attached to the article. Image - DIY repair of the micro usb connector on the phone

A sure sign that the nest needs to be changed

I bought nests on Ali Express in a handful of about 100 pieces, 10 types, which is convenient.

I picked up a suitable one, but not identical, which had to be modified and filed.

The nest has to be adjusted

As it turned out later, given the almost external similarity of the gates, the gilded contacts did not fit on it in height, that is, they floated above the board! Take note!

Fitted the socket, but did not notice the discrepancy to the original

I had to re-select the nest, file it again, adjust it, since there was no needed one.

The nest has to be adjusted

When fitting, a slight distortion of the nest was revealed, i.e. opening the fastening locks of the nest, which had to be put in place, soldered and slightly adjusted to the lid of the smart with a sharp knife.

And all because the nests ordered in bulk are cheap, which means they are simpler, made of not very durable metal, in comparison with their native nests. Native nests are usually very expensive, made soundly, reliably, but you can't find enough of them for any occasion. Ordering relatives in China and boring to wait is problematic. I decided to take apart the old nest, weighing all the pros and cons, and comparing the price tags in Ali.

For desoldering, I use a special hot air gun, although you can completely do with a building hair dryer, while being vigilant and attentive so as not to "fry" truncated in a circle.

Be sure to cover all plastic parts, capacitors with pastry foil or chocolate, otherwise they may melt! Then kirdyk to your smart can come to the offensive suddenly and without origin! Those.first warm up the entire board in a circular motion, so that it is not led by the "propeller" from the temperature difference, and then in a circular motion you heat the nest itself (about 300 degrees, check with the temperature sensor of a multimeter or by using your intuition and fingers). Before warming up, it is advisable to simply solder the socket with ordinary solder with flux or rosin (mix your tin with the factory tin, thereby making it easier to solder), since the factory solder on the board is often lead-free, which causes problems with soldering the socket.

By the way, for the convenience of work, I completely manage with an ordinary confectionery silicone mat, since there are professional roads.

It keeps high temperatures and does not slip on it, i.e. a practical and appropriate thing. I also use a special board holder with crocodiles, with which I can conveniently fix the board.

The rug and holder were purchased on Ali. In general, you can do without them, including thinking.

After soldering, I use the braid soaked in flux or rosin, leaning it against with a soldering iron and guiding them along the tracks and holes with tin, also pre-lubricated with flux.

braid for solder removal

As a result, the braid absorbs all interfering solder, leaving everything around clean (cool idea!). The only thing to keep in mind is, do not rip off the tracks and contact dimes with a braid! This also has a place to be! Be careful and take your time!

I forgot to say that soldering the socket with a soldering iron is problematic and risky. Of course, with good experience, you can evaporate and subtly - with the help of one large drop of solder, covering the entire socket with it and making sure not to "shake" and not stick adjacent parts to your mega-drop, etc. But nevertheless it is skillfully done by people with a full hand and experience. As an option, in the workshops earlier (when there were no hair dryers, in the USSR), they made (bought) special nozzles-stings for the necessary connectors and sockets, which made it possible to supply heat to all the required areas at a time and easily evaporate. It was an excursion, but for you it is still easier with a hot air gun.

Ideally, a special microscope is successfully used in workshops for soldering small parts. I use magnifying glasses, since I can't afford a good microscope yet, and taking a cheap one is just a waste of money.

I also use a set of clock screwdrivers for disassembly and assembly, and I also use them with pleasure as convenient small cleaners (from rosin on the board), picks, pushers, pusher legs of elements, etc. I got it at the nearest hardware store, for a symbolic amount.

A set of cheap watch screwdrivers

The varieties of tweezers purchased by me in Ali and in "Fix-price" help a lot. In an important case, the female cosmetic tweezers may come in handy.

The tip of your family's forty-watt soldering iron will need to be sharpened at an acute angle and with a slightly rounded end in order to creep up to the socket legs neatly and effectively and painlessly for neighboring radioelements.

Or just wind the copper wire around the tip and use it as a thin tip, in common people: "Quickly mini-soldering iron"!

It is advisable to buy a cheap power regulator for lamps, with which you will regulate the temperature of the sting so that the rosin on the sting does not quickly turn into carbon deposits, so as not to overheat the conductive tracks and so that they do not fly off.

Lamp power regulator

You can, of course, without a power regulator, but then you have to solder with short-term touches so as not to overheat the tracks and boringly often cleaning the sting from black rosin oxides. And again - and this is the art of the possible, on the verge of risk. Decide for yourself.

After that, be sure to check how you soldered, whether everything looks beautiful, whether anything sticks out, whether there is a so-called. "snot" between the contact pads, as this can cause a short circuit and is fraught with a more serious breakdown of the device. Use a little braid, if the sting cannot remove the snot, it will take away the excess solder, and the tin will squeeze out under the leg of the nest.If, nevertheless, a little remains, then lubricate the place with rosin and lightly tear off the remains of tin between the contacts with a sting. But do not overdo it, the solder should be in the form of a sufficient droplet covering the contact for a firm contact. Do not spare the flux (rosin) so that the soldering is electrically conductive (and not the so-called “cold” or “dry” soldering, not conductive).

Now, partially, without screws, we assemble the smartphone, connect the cables, turn on, check for operability, if everything is fine, charging is in progress, the battery shows that it is accumulating a charge, then we finally assemble it by screwing and closing the rear decorative cover.

For clarity of the process of replacing the nest, I cut you gifs from the video of a professional's work. Watch and listen.

In this article, I will tell you how to properly change the charging socket on your phone or micro USB tablet. This method has been developed over the years, and in my opinion is the fastest and most reliable.

Active soldering flux or a weak soldering acid, you can also use aspirin tablets, just be careful of the caustic smoke.
I buy flux RMA-223 in syringes here: https://ali.pub/lqw23
Any soldering station with a hair dryer and a soldering iron.
Suitable micro usb connector.
Tin in a coil, preferably 0.3mm, take here: https://ali.pub/mieuo
You can buy tweezers where I get them.
Well, everything seems to be

And so we disassemble the phone or tablet, take the board with the charging socket and fix it, for fixing I use the board holder I bought here: https://ali.pub/4lstm

We fix it so that the contacts of the back of the connector are on top, then we apply flux for soldering rma-223 to all contacts of the connector, turn on the hair dryer at the soldering station with a set temperature of 330-350 degrees Celsius. And yes, I almost forgot if there are plastic parts next to the charging socket, for example, a camera, or a microphone, they need to be protected from high temperatures, for this I use heat-resistant foil, I took it here: https://ali.pub/905dy

We leave only the charging connector not covered with foil and begin to warm it up with a hairdryer, so that the entire area of contact with the board warms up, I make quick circular movements and after about a minute, one and a half, the socket is easily removed from the board with tweezers.

Next, we need to prepare a new charging socket, for this we process all the contacts with an active flux and solder the contacts with a soldering iron. After soldering, the connector needs to be washed from the active flux; for washing, I use the "Kalosha" liquid, which is sold in hardware stores. After that, the charging socket is ready to be installed on the board. We warm up the installation site and use tweezers to carefully install the new connector, heat it until the connector contacts on the motherboard are covered with tin and the socket falls into place.

That's all dear friends, subscribe to my youtube channel, put your likes and visit us again, I have a lot of interesting things for you.

Here are some video examples.

Replacing the charging socket on lenovo s6000 tablet:

Replacing the charging socket on your philips xenium e632 phone:

How to solder the micro usb connector on a tablet, phone, netbook, laptop with your own hands?

Now in devices you can often find usb connectors (u-es-bi, English Universal Serial Bus - "universal serial bus"). Due to accidental mechanical damage, for example, while the device is in charging mode, such a malfunction is often encountered - such as a break in the micro usb connector. You will learn how to solder the micro usb connector yourself in the article below.

If you love tinkering and know how to handle a soldering iron, then it will not be difficult for you to re-solder the micro usb connector on the tablet yourself. To do this, we need tools: a 25 watt soldering iron, solder, easy fusible tin, tweezers, a small curly screwdriver, a scalpel or a knife with a thin blade, a magnifying glass.

The most important thing is that we do everything carefully and accurately!

For disassembly, we need:

Screwdriver Set;
Tweezers;
Scalpel or knife;
Soldering iron.

Step 1. Unscrew all the fastening screws on the tablet or phone, carefully remove the back cover with a knife or scalpel, thereby freeing the case latches from the grooves, tilting the blade towards the screen.

Step 2. After removing the cover on the tablet (phone), you need to ground the soldering iron, solder the wire to the common body (minus) and then the other end of the wire to the body of the soldering iron itself. This must be done in order to protect the tablet from accidental static electricity, which can damage its electronic components. You should also make an antistatic wrist strap and also ground it.

Step 3. Next, we solder the wires from the battery, this is necessary in order not to accidentally close the electronic circuit and not to damage the components.

Step 4. After that, we unscrew all the fastening screws on the board and turn it over, thereby we get directly to the micro usb connector itself.

Next, I give a short list of micro usb connector malfunctions and how to fix them:

If the connector has become unusable and its further repair is impossible, then it should be replaced. To do this, we need to find a knowingly working one, you can use an unnecessary or faulty cell phone and unsolder the micro usb connector from the phone. To do this, take a scalpel and push it between the board and the connector, heating the mounting tabs of the micro usb connector, gradually lifting one side, then the other. Further, after the mounting tabs are soldered from the board, you need to take tweezers, since the connector heats up quickly, you should not overheat, because the plastic parts of the micro usb connector can melt and deform. After that, we unsolder the connector pins, they should be heated all at the same time. Pay attention to the installation, smd parts can be near the connector and if soldering is not neat, they can be soldered or burned, be careful and therefore the soldering iron tip must be thin. The sequence for unsoldering the connector is the same and dismantling the micro usb connector on the tablet should be done in a similar way.

In this case, you should pay attention to the integrity of the tracks themselves, for this we take a magnifying glass and inspect the installation, if the tracks are intact on the board, then well, if not, then you have to restore them. It is necessary to find all the ends of the torn off tracks and carefully clean them with a scalpel (clean the varnish), then tin with a soldering iron. After that, we take the micro usb connector itself and solder the fastening tabs of the connector to the board, I advise you to pre-glue the connector to the board before soldering, this will reduce the likelihood of repeated breakage. It remains small, solder the leads, if the tracks are intact, then it will not be difficult, but if not, we do the following: we take thin copper wires (one hair of a stranded thin wire) and solder between the leads of the tracks and the connector. If, for some reason, it was not possible to restore all the tracks (the track under the electronic part is cut off and there is no way to track its location). In this case, it will be possible to do only for charging the tablet, while we need to restore only two tracks, two extreme outputs to the micro usb connector, the only drawback is the inability to connect the tablet to a computer and external devices.

League of Repairers, I ask for your informational help, and to a large extent psychological :) - for two months I can’t rewire the USB connector on my phone, - I can’t start (and at this particular moment there is not enough time, but if I don’t ask a question now, I won’t ask another two months).

Knowledge level - 0. Mastery is a curious procrastinating-perfectionist hand.

In general, the problem is described in the post. YouTube videos like this

It basically shows how to re-solder with a soldering iron and heat with a hair dryer. But what if there is a soldering station or a hair dryer. There is only a conventional soldering iron with a copper tip.

What will be the algorithm of actions in this case? How to heat, which flux is better to use, is the rosin suitable, what are the nuances. Yes, where to get the braid, which can serve as its substitute.

How I imagine the process:

1. File the soldering iron tip. I don’t know, and apply a little (just touching the solder “wire” with the sting) to the solder tip - tin it.

2. Then dip the soldering iron in rosin, try to unsolder the contacts. I found a video that says about the alloy of the rose. I do not know if it is necessary to apply it

Remove the braid (where can I get it?) Solder.

3. Insert a new USB connector, solder the contacts using solder. Everything seems to be simple. But I just would like to hear the opinion of people involved in soldering.

If you don’t feel sorry for the device (and, as I understand it, it’s been lying for two months, it means it’s not a running one), then of course try, the experience must come from somewhere

Regarding the soldering iron, in general, as you wrote, some soldering irons immediately come to rosin, however, you can immediately see a yellow sting, then you just need to dip it in solder and that's it

And then everything is also simple, but you need to do it carefully, the main thing is to try this scheme in front of the phone on something old first - a player, a sidir, any equipment lying around, the main thing is that there is no microscopic surface mounting - chips, connectors, etc.

The algorithm is outrageously simple, but it requires accuracy - since you have a regular soldering iron, so as not to spoil everything around with a high temperature, you need Rose's alloy (or Wood's, it is also suitable, but it is toxic), since when it is mixed with refractory factory solder , the melting point decreases and you can evaporate this part in less time, and therefore there is less risk of overheating neighboring elements

You put one small tablet of alloy and gently stretch it over everything that sticks out at the connector, if not enough - take another one, but make sure that it does not fly off to neighboring elements - it is very jumpy

When it hardens, you take tweezers / spatula / fork / finger, whatever, and, with one hand, heating with a soldering iron, with the other you pick it out from the landing site, again, make sure that it does not fly apart

In any case, you should have a few piles of alloy left and the connector should be removed by this time, now you need to clean up the place for the new connector

You take the copper braid, put it on these slides, press it lightly with a soldering iron and just as lightly, when it starts to be absorbed, you drive around, if the braid is filthy - you can gut it a little or anoint it with flux (LTI-120 will be good for a start - there is a brush and it can be gently anointed)

You clean until the tracks are flat and without solder, but do not hold for a long time either - again, you will overheat

Then you take a low-melting solder, a new connector, put a little solder on the pads, put it exactly on them

As soon as you put it down, you lightly press the legs with a soldering iron until they plunge into it a little, if you have a multimeter with a diode dialing mode, you can immediately check whether they are stuck to the pads or not, and try not to hang the solder between the legs - you will hesitate to remove it later, better solder on the pads to begin with

Then you solder the stops (or whatever you call them, in general, the legs on the sides for fixing) and voila! The tower is ready!

I personally did this when it was exactly the same in terms of equipment and knowledge, even the first two or three posts - just replacements of micro / mini yusb - were done this way, everything works, nothing was returned 🙂

Flux, braid, Rose alloy - everything should be in any radio store, look in 2gis, even in our village there is one

If you have any questions, write, although even so the sheet turned out at first glance, wow, and also scroll it 🙂

Micro-USB Connector Set -

Replacing the micro usb (mini usb) connector on a tablet, smartphone, navigator, etc. How to replace the charging connector. Replace micro usb. The video uses Flux (link under the video), a soldering iron, a hair dryer, a Flux off cleaner, a braid for removing solder.

VK group -
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Tools used in the work:
Flux Amtech-223 -
Curved tweezers -
Straight tweezers -
Desoldering braid 5pcs -
Flux can and needle -

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Video Replacing the micro-USB (mini-USB) connector / Soldering the micro-USB (mini-USB) connector / Replace Micro Usb channel Fix it yourself!

Is it possible to independently (without experience) replace the micro USB connector on the Lenovo A1000 tablet without contacting a service center and having the minimum set of tools required for work?

I had a friend who, as a child, could repair an iron and a lamp, and my parents were afraid to repair electrical things, so it turned out that in one of her past lives she was a pilot of a single-seat deep space research ship. (:

Therefore, I will not devalue your talents, but I will remember the words from the film about Count Cagliostro: what one person has collected - the other will always be able to make out - and I will give you this video from YouTube:

And I wish you to observe safety precautions, and - SUCCESS.Correct pinout of the plug and socket of the Micro-USB connector for connecting power and charging a mobile phone or tablet.Pin assignment of micro-USB connector - jacks and plugsThe USB (Universal Serial Bus) connector is a universal serial bus, the most common wired method for connecting external devices to a computer. This connector allows organizing data exchange between a computer and a video camera, card reader, MP3 player, external hard drive, smartphone.In addition, a 5 volt supply voltage is supplied through it to charge the battery of wearable gadgets. Since almost all modern lithium batteries have an operating voltage of 3.7 V, the 5 V running through the Micro-YUSB are excellent for replenishing energy. True, not directly to the battery, but through the charger converter.I am glad that the pinout of the connector is the same for all smartphone manufacturers - Samsung, LG, Huaway and others. Thus, a 220 V charger adapter from one phone is most often suitable for charging another without changing the pinout.

The main advantage of the Micro-USB connector over other types is the ability to connect Plug & Play devices without the need to restart the computer or manually install drivers. Devices can be connected while the computer is running and also disconnected without having to press any buttons.

Please note: The micro connector contains 5 pins. The fourth contact is not used in type “B” connectors. In connectors of type "A" the fourth contact is closed with GND (minus). And for GND - the fifth pin.

+5 volts

-Data

+ Data

Not used / General

General

Comrades with hands or just experience and a head on their shoulders will laugh, but I really have now acquired the skill of communicating with telephones. The cable jumped out of the micro-USB connector and in order for the phone to charge, I had to hold it almost with my hands.The clamping brackets on the cable are intact, I even thought it was in the wire - I changed it - the result is the same. It got to the point that I even tried to bend the board (the small one with contacts) so that the cable would fit better. Nothing helps. There was a thought about changing the phone.And then, bam! dawned on. I took a clerical knife, and then a paper clip and voila - 100% of the dirt masked in the connector, which was picked out was the reason. Suddenly someone came through the search with the same problem - consider that I saved your mobile. Clean, clean and clean again Image - DIY repair of the micro usb connector on the phone

Date: 12.03.2016 // 0 Comments

This article will be useful not only for those who want to replace a worn out plug on a charger, but also for those who want to use an old, but branded charger on a modern phone. Now almost all smartphones have a micro USB power input, but surely everyone has some old Nokia charger with a thin outlet or other similar adapter idle.Today we will show how easy it is to modernize such chargers.

For alteration, you need to pick up a charger with a voltage of 5V and an output current of at least 500mA or more. In our case, we got an adapter from Motorola, with a current strength of 550mA. Here you just need to replace mini usb with micro usb.

A collapsible micro USB connector can be bought at any radio parts store, since there are enough such little things on sale.

Next, we cut off the unnecessary tail, clean and tin the ends of the wires. Then it is necessary to connect the charger to the network and determine the polarity of the voltage on these wires.

The next step is to install a jumper between pins 2 and 3 of the collapsible plug, as well as solder the power wires: plus to pin 1, minus to pin 5. Note that the plug is shown from the mounting side.

The jumper must be installed for Nokia (Microsoft), Samsung, HTC phones, etc., sometimes resistors are used for other devices, etc., the necessary information can be easily found on the network.

We check the polarity of the connection and collect our plug in a bunch. For better fixing of the wires, we use sanitary silicone, and fix the plug of the plug with superglue.

We check it on a real machine. Attention, before inserting the connector into the phone, double-check that the polarity of the wires is connected correctly. As you can see, replacing mini usb with a micro usb plug is not very tricky!

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Many of our mobile devices use a mini-USB connector for charging and synchronization. It is fixed inside tightly, but with careless use, that is, if you pull the cord when the device is charging, if the device falls and hangs on the USB cable, this connector may fall off. The author of these lines took just such a device for repair. It was the Shturmann Link 500.

The first step is to get to the board, where the connector was soldered, so that you can crawl there with a soldering iron. In my case (GPS-navigator) I had to disassemble it and pull out the motherboard.

When the fallen off connector and the soldering point have become available to us, we can proceed. We look at how the connector was held: it was held on the soldering of the case in four places, on the soldering of the contacts themselves and on glue on both sides from the sides of the case. First, we tin the soldering points of the connector, if necessary, smooth out the places on the board with a soldering iron, only carefully, 5 contacts are very close to each other. Before planting the connector in its place, it would be nice to glue it, for example, on the melting glue of a hot glue gun, but it is better on some epoxy glue or something else stronger, but I do not recommend planting it on superglue, because it grabs quickly and tears off the connector in case unsuccessful soldering will be difficult. So, we put the connector in its place on the glue, now we need to solder 5 contacts to their places, having managed not to bridge a single pair of them. If there is no soldering iron with a very thin tip, then it will not be easy, I had to re-solder several times to achieve the desired result. When all 5 contacts are neatly soldered, it remains to solder the connector body in four places, as it was soldered earlier, after which you can additionally pour glue from the sides.

The connector on the sides may not solder well. In this case, its soldered surfaces must be cleaned and tinned.

Now we connect the device to the computer and check if everything works as it should. If all is well, then we assemble the device and continue to use it.

Video (click to play).

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