Do-it-yourself repair of the gear grinder Kirovskaya

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of the gearbox of the Kirov grinder from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

The anchor of the grinder is subjected to thermal, mechanical and electromagnetic loads more than all nodes. Therefore, it is a common cause of tool failure, and as a result, it often needs to be repaired. How to check the anchor for performance and repair the element with your own hands - in our article.

An angle grinder motor armature is a conductive winding and a magnetic circuit into which a rotation shaft is pressed. It has a drive gear at one end, a collector with lamellas at the other. The magnetic circuit consists of grooves and soft plates coated with varnish for isolation from each other.

In the grooves, according to a special scheme, two conductors of the anchor winding are laid. Each conductor is half a coil, the ends of which are connected in pairs on lamellae. The beginning of the first turn and the end of the last are in the same groove, so they are closed to one lamella.

Types of anchor faults:

Breakdown of insulation to ground is the short circuit of the winding on the metal housing of the rotor. Occurs due to the destruction of insulation.

Soldering of collector conclusions.

Uneven manifold wear.

If the armature is faulty, the motor overheats, the winding insulation is melted, the turns are short-circuited. The contacts connecting the armature winding to the collector plates are soldered. The power supply is cut off and the motor stops working.

visually;
multimeter;
light bulb;
special devices.

Before taking the device for diagnostics, inspect the anchor. It may be damaged. If the wiring is melted, the burnt insulating varnish will leave black marks or a peculiar smell. You can see bent and crumpled coils or conductive particles, such as solder residue. These particles cause a short circuit between the turns. The lamellas have curved edges, called cockerels, to connect with the winding.

Video (click to play).

Due to the violation of these contacts, the lamellas burn out.

Other manifold damage: Raised, worn or burnt plates. Graphite from brushes can accumulate between the lamellas, which also indicates a short circuit.

Bent manifold plates

Set the resistance to 200 ohms. Connect the probes of the device to two adjacent slats. If the resistance is the same between all adjacent plates, then the winding is working. If the resistance is less than 1 ohm and very close to zero, there is a short circuit between the turns. If the resistance is two or more times higher than the average, then there is a break in the turns of the winding. Sometimes, during a break, the resistance is so high that the device goes off scale. On an analog multimeter, the arrow will go all the way to the right. And on digital it will not show anything.

Diagnostics of the armature winding with a multimeter

If you don't have a tester, use a 12 volt bulb up to 40 watts.

Take two wires and connect them to the lamp.
Make a break on the negative wire.
Apply voltage to the wires. Attach the ends of the gap to the collector plates and scroll it. If the light is on without changing the brightness, then there is no short circuit.
Perform a short to iron test. Connect one wire to the lamellas and the other to the iron of the rotor. Then with a shaft. If the light is on, then there is a ground breakdown. The winding closes to the rotor housing or shaft.

This procedure is similar to diagnostics with a multimeter.

There are anchors that do not show wires connected to the collector due to filling with an opaque compound or due to a bandage.Therefore, it is difficult to determine the commutation on the collector with respect to the slots. The indicator of short-circuited turns will help in this.

This device is small and easy to operate.

First check the anchor for breaks. Otherwise, the indicator will not be able to detect a short circuit. To do this, use a tester to measure the resistance between two adjacent slats. If the resistance exceeds the average at least twice, then there is a break. If there is no break, proceed to the next step.

The resistance knob allows you to select the sensitivity of the device. It has two lights: red and green. Adjust the regulator so that the red light comes on. There are two sensors in the form of white dots on the indicator body, located at a distance of 3 centimeters from each other. Attach the indicator with sensors to the winding. Turn the anchor slowly. If the red light comes on, it means there is a short circuit.

An armature tester determines the presence of an interturn winding short circuit. The inductor is a transformer that has only a primary winding and a magnetic gap is cut out in the core.Diagram of the anchor testerWhen we put the rotor in this gap, its winding starts to work as a secondary winding of the transformer. Turn on the appliance and place a metal plate, such as a metal ruler or hacksaw blade, on the anchor. If there is an interturn short circuit, the plate will vibrate or be magnetized to the armature body due to local oversaturation of iron. Rotate the anchor around the axis, moving the plate so that it lies on different turns. If there is no short circuit, then the plate will move freely along the rotor.

Damaged manifold plate

We expand the place with a drill

If the collector was completely worn out, then after soldering it will last no more than a month of active use. And not completely damaged plates after such a repair can withstand several replacements of brushes and are not soldered.

Recovered copper is very hard. Collector life is like new. Electroplating can be used to restore both a completely worn collector and partially damaged plates.

Angle grinders in Soviet times were made in Bulgaria. Therefore, angle grinder and began to be called a grinder. Currently, there are many companies manufacturing angle grinders of various models. But the basic elements are the same. After reviewing the device, probable breakdowns and diagnostics of the tool, you can repair the grinder of any modification with your own hands.

The grinder is designed for grinding and cutting various materials.

The main elements of the grinder

Bulgarian consists of the following elements:

The flat aluminum alloy gear housing is better at dissipating heat.
Carbon brushes.
Handle attachment.
Electronic soft start system. Prevents jerking when turning on and reduces starting loads on the engine.
Quick release protective cover.
Ball bearings.
Electric motor.
Bulgarian switch.

A wide range of bearing products is offered by the Thermopolis company -

Main failures and causes:

To troubleshoot, the grinder needs to be disassembled.

Remove the nut that holds the work disk.

Loosen the screws securing the protective cover.

Unscrew the bolts of the grinder housing and those with which the housing is attached to the gearbox.

Remove the top of the rear case. Loosen the cord fixing screws.Remove the wires and the button from their grooves. In some models, for example, in DWT, the rear case is not disassembled into parts, but is removed entirely.

Disconnect the motor wires.

Remove the brushes.

Disconnect the gearbox housing from the grinder housing. Together with it, the engine armature is removed.

Loosen the gearbox bolts located around the casing mount.

To disconnect the armature from the aluminum housing, unscrew the nut located in the gearbox housing.

Assemble the instrument in reverse order.

During operation, the disc can be so tightly tightened with the nut that it begins to crumble. It is impossible to unscrew the nut with a wrench. And you don’t need to do this, since you can break the grinder. First, break the disk up to the nut itself. Then find a metal plate slightly thinner than the working disk. Use it to grind off the remains of the disk under the nut. It can be easily unscrewed with a key or by hand. In order not to bring the tool to this problem, put a washer under the nut.

For some angle grinders, for example, Bosh, the casing is not bolted, but snapped into place. To remove it, you need to turn the cutout of the casing perpendicular to the angle grinder. To put on, turn until it clicks.The stator is checked with a multimeter.

Interturn closure. Set the resistance mode to 200 ohms. Connect the probes of the device to the ends of one winding. One means an open, and zero means a short circuit between the turns. If it shows the presence of a resistance of more than 1.5 ohms, then check the second winding. Both windings should have approximately the same resistance.

Breakdown to ground or short circuit of the winding with a metal stator case. Set your multimeter to maximum resistance. Connect one probe to the end of the winding, the other probe to the metal case of the stator. The unit indicates the absence of a breakdown.

First, visually inspect the collector and winding. There may be visible damage: black marks, bent windings, raised, worn or burnt collector plates. After the inspection, proceed to the tester. Set the resistance to 200 ohms. Connect the probes of the device to two adjacent collector plates. If the resistance is the same between all adjacent plates, then the winding is working. If the resistance is less than 1 ohm and very close to zero, there is a short circuit between the turns. If the resistance is two or more times higher than the average, then there is a break in the turns of the winding. The definition of a breakdown to ground is done in the absence of a winding break. Set the maximum resistance on the scale of the device. Depending on the tester, it can be from 2 MΩ to 200 MΩ. Connect one probe to the shaft, and the other to each plate in turn. If there are no faults, the resistance should be zero. Do the same with the rotor. Connect one probe to the iron body of the rotor, and move the other along the plates.Put the tester in ringing mode.Insert one probe into the button output and the other into the opposite input.Press the button. A beep indicates that this part of the button is working.Do the same for the other input and output of the button.

Try not to use the grinder in the winter season on the street. While you are working, the engine heats up. The air is icy. As a result, condensation forms. Moisture is detrimental to the engine.

Always use the wheels recommended by the tool manufacturer. If the grinder is 180 mm, do not put more than 200 mm there.The larger the circle, the lower the rpm should be. You will have to remove the protection, and the speed will be exceeded. Vibrations and vibrations will increase. As a result, the circle will break into pieces. This is fraught not only with serious injuries. The gearbox bearing is broken, the gears are worn out.

If you actively use the grinder, then you are a good master. It will not be difficult for you to understand the device of the tool and repair it with your own hands. Find the problem first and determine which parts to check. Repair the grinder carefully, without haste, so that a minor breakdown does not turn into a major one.

Do-it-yourself repair of an angle grinder is a completely solvable task. The main thing is not to rush, understand the design, remember all the circumstances under which it broke down, determine what could wear out during work, diagnose and start repairing.

The grinder is called an angle grinder (angle grinder). The name of the tool is due to the fact that it was produced by the Eltos-Bulgarian plant in Plovdiv. It is intended for performing work on grinding or cutting hard material:

Good for tool sharpening.

The grinder in our time is a very necessary tool, so almost everyone has it.

There are grinders of different power: from 500 W to 2500, depending on the thickness of the circle - from 115 mm to 230 mm. The most popular in the work are angle grinders with a power of 1.2 W, and the most used disk is 125 mm thick.

Every year, the choice for this construction power tool is becoming wider, but the operating rules hardly change. And even if you always adhere to them, sooner or later malfunctions occur in the mechanism, which you can try to fix with your own hands, collecting everything you need to repair the grinder.

Any grinder consists of the following parts:

rotor - the part of the electric motor that rotates during operation and is speed-controlled, also called the armature;
collector - a place on the rotor where the control winding wires are located;
brushes - parts that serve as current conductors from the cable to the collector winding;
reducer - a mechanism that acts as a drive from a rotating rotor to a spinning disk, consists of a spindle, a bearing, two gears (a large one and a shaft gear);
stator - part of the electric motor in which the rotor operates;
grinder cooling impeller;
start button;
network cable with electric drive;
protection casing;
grinder body;
additional handle.

All these details can be divided into two parts:

How to disassemble the grinder? Not such a complicated process. This does not require special knowledge, but it is necessary to do everything carefully and with caution. Each owner needs to know how to disassemble any working tool, because from time to time it needs internal cleaning from dirt and dust, and its service life depends on this.

At the present time on the market, you can choose a different type of grinder, which differ in operating parameters, size, quality. Manufacturers are also different. Whatever model of grinder you purchase, all have the same assembly model of parts.

Disassembling the grinder will require a few tools, you just need a regular screwdriver or a reversible ratchet.

Having prepared a screwdriver, you can start disassembling:

We unscrew the screws from the case and remove one side of the product.
We remove the nut, thanks to which the disk is held, unscrew the bolts securing the protective casing.
We take the brushes off.
Disconnect the wires from the engine.
We unscrew the bolts that secure the gearbox inside, and very carefully remove it, and the rotor is also removed with it.
We unscrew the bolts that hold the stator, and remove it.
We assemble the grinder back, put everything back in place one by one and fasten it.

When disassembling the grinder, it is important to remember the order in which the parts are removed in order to assemble it correctly.

In the event of a malfunction, first of all, it is necessary to exclude elementary breakdowns:

Bulgarian does not turn on. The angle grinder suddenly became faulty - it stopped turning on. In this case, you need to check the serviceability of the outlet, then the plug and the power cord, perhaps the drive simply does not work due to the fact that current does not enter the product.

The cable with the plug is intact, but the drive does not work. You need to check the start button. It is easier to repair the grinder switch by buying a new button and replacing it. Since it is rarely subject to repair, basically, the plastic pull of the switch breaks inside. If you want to experiment, you can disassemble it by numbering the contacts, and put everything back in place so that after assembly there is no short circuit.

The above parts are intact, and the angle grinder does not want to work - so it's time to check the brushes. Perhaps it's time to change them in the grinder. Brushes from work are constantly heated, so they wear out quickly and more often than other parts need to be replaced, and in pairs.

Having eliminated all minor breakdowns, it is necessary to understand why the tool does not want to turn on and how to repair it. Most likely, the malfunctions are serious, requiring additional knowledge. This happens if:

the body is deformed;

jammed one of the bearings;

armature or stator does not work;

broken or worn teeth at the gear of the gearbox;

the collector is out of order;

the control electronics sensor does not show signs of life.

If it is determined that the malfunction occurred in the mechanical part of the grinder, then you need to pay attention to the condition of the large gear located on the shaft and the bushings. If the teeth are partially worn out or the shafts are wobbly, they must be replaced immediately.

The most common breakdowns

Malfunctions grinders happen quite often. Everyone who works with this tool knows about it. What goes wrong most often?

Just one awkward press on the spindle lock button while the disc is spinning causes it to break. Sometimes it can be broken if it is used to remove a jammed disc. To prevent this from happening, you need to use an open-end wrench inserted into special holes near the disk attachment point.

It mainly occurs when jamming occurs. If a rumble is heard in the gearbox, this is a sign of just such a malfunction. When more than one tooth is broken at the gear, the angle grinder will not be able to cut the necessary material.

In order for the tool to continue working, it is necessary to change the gears, and that’s all, and even the bevel wheel. Before going to the store for spare parts, remember the manufacturer, model and power of the product.

This type of failure occurs with angle grinders that work in places where there is a lot of dust, and when they are given a rest, they are left on the ground. Dust that gets inside spoils the winding. Large loads, especially for a small power grinder, turn into a motor breakdown.

If the grinder is used to cut materials that create a lot of dust, then it is recommended to cover the ventilation holes with something.

The weakest link, and not only for angle grinders, are bearings. A high frequency of rotation quickly wears out the mechanism. The good news is that changing the bearing is easy. Replacing a sprinkled bearing with a grinder must be done on time so that there is no breakdown that cannot be fixed.

This breakdown is easy to determine when the angle grinder is turned on, but the disk revolutions are too intense and differ from normal operation - which means that there is a turn short circuit in the stator on the winding. Stator failure is considered the most serious, and special skills are needed to eliminate it.When there are doubts about your abilities, it is better to turn to professionals so that later you do not have to buy a new tool.

If the decision to repair it yourself is made, it begins with cutting off the frontal parts of the winding, the remnants are all removed. The next step is to make a new winding according to the pattern. It should be identical in number of turns, with the same density and from wire of the same thickness as the previous one.

Angle grinders whose power is less than 1100 W are usually equipped with spur gears. They are on the stator. Bulgarians with more power have helical gears. Each of the options has a conical shape, the shaft of the grinder gearbox intersects with the stator shaft at an angle.

Repair of the grinder gearbox mainly consists in replacing the gears. In the event of a broken disk gear, it is difficult to replace it, because it is very firmly fixed. Disassembling the gearbox is easy:

you need to unscrew the nut from its side;
carefully take the rotor housing in a vise and knock out the gearbox housing with light blows;
change the position of the clamped rotor and knock out the bearing through the wooden board;
unscrew the gear from the shaft.

The speed controller is not present in all models of grinders. When the angle grinder is used for cutting, it is, in principle, not needed, but if grinding is carried out, it is simply necessary. If it suddenly stopped working, then most likely the board burned out, which must be removed and bought the same in a power tool store for further replacement.

Self-repair grinder is not always feasible. If suddenly something does not come out or everything is not clear, it is better to contact the service center.

Before completely breaking down, the angle grinder gives signals about the onset of problems.

Pay attention to the work of your assistant: you should be alerted if:

the brushes began to spark too much;
during operation, the grinder heats up;
the motor hums inside the case when the tool is turned on;
the vibration of the body has become much greater during the performance of work;
grinder gearbox cracking inside;
the sound of bearings creaking during spin-up or periodic wedging is heard when the rotor shaft rotates;
The angle grinder smoked, or an uncharacteristic burning smell emanated from it.

In order not to buy a new angle grinder, you need to be attentive to the operation of the tool. In case of any deviations from the usual work, start troubleshooting, determine the cause and repair the power tool.

The service life of the grinder directly depends on the owner's care for it. Each tool needs good care, then it will work properly for a long time.

Any angle grinder will warm up during operation, but in order to postpone the repair of the angle grinder for a long time, it is necessary to adhere to some rules at work:

Do not overload the tool to avoid overheating and smoke.
Do not press hard on it during operation.
Clean and lubricate the necessary parts inside the case in time.
If abnormal operation is noticed, stop operation and inspect for malfunctions.
Replace wearing parts in a timely manner.
If the grinder smokes, immediately stop work and do not turn it on again.
Do not use the tool when processing wood type material.
Hold the grinder firmly during operation so as not to drop or damage it.

By adhering to the listed simple recommendations and rules in working with a tool called a grinder, you can extend its life longer than provided by the warranty period.

The Bulgarian, being the most demanded tool in the house, is subjected to considerable loads and intensive use. Because of this, after some time, it happens that jerks, a burning smell and other malfunctions appear when starting the engine, suggesting that the angle grinder (angle grinder) has broken down. But do not immediately carry the device for repair or buy a new one.Most of the malfunctions of this device can be eliminated independently.

Over the long years of the existence of such a tool as an angle grinder, its appearance, as well as the internal structure, have not changed much. To repair the grinder with your own hands, you need to know the device of its mechanical part, as well as the electrical one.

If you look at the figure below, you can see what parts the angle grinder consists of.

Wheel for adjusting the spindle speed of the unit.
An electric motor consisting of a rotor and a stator.
Start button. Sometimes a soft start system is connected to it.
Housing made of impact-resistant plastic.
Button for locking the spindle (used when changing tools).
Safety clutch. Protects the motor from overload when the tool jams.
Protective cover. Closes the tool and protects the user from flying particles of the processed material, and also prevents injury to a person when the tool is destroyed, for example, an abrasive disc.
A nut holding a tool. It is unscrewed using a special key that comes with the power tool. There are also quick-lock nuts that can be unscrewed without a wrench.
The gearbox housing and the gearbox itself. It consists of a block of gears that transmit rotational movements from the rotor to the spindle with the tool.

The figure below shows electric circuit grinder.

The electrical part of the angle grinder has the following elements:

electrical cable with a plug for connecting to the mains;
start button;
stator;
electric brushes (carbon or graphite);
collector;
anchor (rotor).

The following figure shows grinder connection diagram, namely its engine.

All components of the electric motor perform certain functions.

Rotor - this is the shaft on which the coils and the collector are placed. The rotor, rotating in the magnetic field of the stator, transmits rotational motion to the angle grinder gearbox.
Collector. It is a part of the rotor to which all control cables are connected. Electrical signals from the control unit to the engine pass through the collector. It is to the collector that the electric brushes are connected.
Electric brushes. Their main task is to transfer electric current from the power cable to the collector.
Stator. It is a coil with a certain number of turns. The task of the stator is to create a magnetic field, which, interacting with the armature, sets the latter in motion.

According to statistics, most cases of angle grinder failure are associated with the electrical part of the apparatus. Some breakdowns can be minor, which allows you to repair the grinder with your own hands. But, for example, if the motor windings burn out, only a specialist can repair an angle grinder.

The reasons that the angle grinder does not turn on may be the following:

electrical plug is defective;
defective electrical cable;
start button broken
the contact between the power cable and the button is broken;
breakage of the contact wire of the electric brush;
strong wear of electric brushes;
failure of the rotor or stator windings.

The reasons why the angle grinder is not gaining momentum can be different.

Breakdown of the speed control unit. To check this version, it is necessary to connect the device's motor directly, bypassing the regulator, and check the operation of the device.
Electrical cable failure due to permanent kinks or mechanical damage. Because of this, the damaged wire begins to heat up under load, and the engine speed drops.
Collector pollution with dust. Alcohol stains must be removed.
Brush problems. They may be worn or have a short contact wire, as shown in the following photo.

The brush, although half worn out, is quite functional.In this case, a short contact wire does not allow the spring to press the electrode against the collector. This situation can also be the reason why the angle grinder stopped working in normal mode.

The reasons why the grinder is warming up may be as follows.

Incorrect operation of the machine. As a result of overloads, the electric motor can become very hot, which often leads to burnout of the windings.
Bearing destructionlocated at anchor. As a result, the rotor clings to the stator, the operation of the motor is difficult, and the windings overheat. The problem is solved by replacing the bearings.
Clogged ventilation ductsthrough which air enters to cool the engine. The ventilation openings must be cleaned of dust.

Impeller failureused to cool the engine. It is installed on the rotor, on the side opposite to the collector. If the impeller is broken, it must be replaced with a new one.

Interturn short circuits stator and rotor windings. You will need to rewind the coils or replace these parts with new ones.

If you notice a strong spark when you turn on the angle grinder in the place where the collector is located, then the causes of this trouble may be as follows.

To diagnose the electrical part of the angle grinder, as well as eliminate the mechanical breakdowns of the device, you will need to disassemble it. Disassembly is carried out according to the following algorithm.

Unscrew the handle.

Remove the protective cover.

Open the special windows located on the sides of the angle grinder casing and remove the electric brushes after disconnecting the terminals.

Unscrew the gearbox housing from the angle grinder motor housing.

Gently pull on the gearbox housing and detach it from the casing. In this case, the gear unit will be removed together with the rotor.

After removing the armature, the motor stator will remain in the casing, which is also easily removed for diagnostics after unscrewing the fasteners.

To disassemble the gearbox, unscrew the screws holding the cover. After removing the cover, you will see the gears of the gearbox.

To remove the anchor from the grinder, you will need to unscrew the nut inside the gearbox.

In order to remove the bearing from the armature, it is recommended to use a special puller. Otherwise, the shaft may be damaged.

As mentioned above, most often the angle grinder refuses to work due to breakdowns in the electrical part of the unit. For the correct diagnosis of the electrical circuits of the tool, electrical repairmen use a special device - tester.

If you pressed the start button of the unit, and it does not work, then in 90% of cases the cause of the breakdown is not so serious that you cannot repair the grinder with your own hands.

Experts advise adhering to the basic rule of repairing power tools: move from simple to complex.

First of all, you will need checking the electrical cable and plug at its end. If it is collapsible, then unwind it and check the reliability of the contacts. Otherwise, you will have to disassemble the grinder (remove the casing of the device) and “ring out” the cable with a tester, and also make sure that the current is coming to the contacts of the “Start” button. If the device shows a break, then the cable should be replaced with a new one.

The situation when the current flows to the button, but does not pass further (when the position is on), speaks of switch malfunction. The button can't be fixed. It must be replaced with a new one, but first mark the contacts to be removed in order to connect them correctly in the future. If the contacts are connected incorrectly, the motor winding may burn out.

If during the test it turned out that both the cable and the start button are working, but no current is supplied to the brushes, then it is necessary to cleaning the contact plates of the brush holders. If this procedure is ineffective, it is recommended to replace the brushes.Further, if everything is fine with the brushes, and current is supplied to them, you should check the rotor and stator for short circuits and breaks.

The rotor of the electric motor may have the following malfunctions: interturn short circuit and breakage of conductors at the contacts of the lamellas. You can check the anchor of the grinder with a multimeter: the device is switched to the resistance change mode, the value is set to 200 ohms, and the resistance between two adjacent lamellas is measured using probes. Thus, it is required to check all pairs of lamellas. If the resistance values are the same, then the rotor winding is not damaged. Detection during the “ringing” of other resistance values, as well as the detection of an open circuit, indicates a malfunction in this coil. In this case, repair of the anchor of the angle grinder will be required.

Typically, a conductor break occurs at the junction with the winding. Inspect the places where the coils are connected to the lamellas, make sure that the soldering of the contacts is reliable.

If you do not have a measuring device, then you can check the rotor by using 12V bulb and battery. Power should be in the range of 30-40 watts. The check is done as follows: apply 12 V voltage from the battery to the plug of the angle grinder, connect a light bulb to the gap of one wire, start rotating the angle grinder spindle. With a good winding, the light will burn evenly, without blinking. With an interturn circuit, the degree of incandescence of the bulb spiral will change. In this case, repairing the anchor of an angle grinder with your own hands will be difficult, since the anchor winding scheme is quite complicated, and the process itself requires special equipment and knowledge. Therefore, this operation is recommended to be entrusted to specialists. But the best way out of the situation would be to replace the anchor on the angle grinder with a new one.

If the lamp does not light up when testing the rotor, this indicates an open in the stator or a short circuit in its windings, as well as problems with the electric brushes.

To check the stator of the grinder, use, as in the previous case, a multimeter. Values needed set to 20-200 ohms and do the following. Touch one probe to the contact of the stator winding, and the second to the body of the part. If the device shows resistance, this means that a breakdown has occurred on the case. Touch the probes to the contacts of one winding, and then to the contacts of the other. If the resistance is the same, then the coils are working. If the device shows an open circuit on one winding, then the stator will need to be rewound or the part replaced with a new one.

It will be problematic to rewind the stator at home without special knowledge, skills and equipment. It is better to contact specialists who are professionally engaged in rewinding engines.

The mechanical breakdowns of angle grinders include the following.Mechanical failures include breakage of the shaft retainer. In order to replace the retainer, you will need to disassemble the gearbox and remove the large gear.