DIY uaz 469 front axle gearbox repair

Any motorist can repair the front axle of the UAZ Bukhanka and UAZ 469 with his own hands. This work is not difficult. Structurally, both of these models are similar. This is especially true for the suspension. The frame structure means easy dismantling of the front axle and high vehicle reliability. There are some differences in leaf spring and spring suspension. But these features do not greatly affect the complexity of the work.

Almost no special tools are needed for repairs. All work is carried out with a minimum set of tools available to each driver.

Do-it-yourself repair of the front axle of UAZ Loaf and UAZ 469 uncomplicated. Most often, during operation, it is necessary to carry out various preventive work. As a rule, they do not require removal and disassembly of the bridge. The list of care actions includes:

• The pivots are checked for gaps;
• Threaded connections must be tightened periodically;
• Convergence is checked;
• The requirements of the parts lubrication tables are met.

It is imperative to visually inspect the main components. Particular attention is paid to the serviceability of the fastening bolts. All locking elements must also be securely reinforced. Check the angle of maximum rotation of the wheels. It should not exceed 28 degrees. If the indicators differ from those indicated, you need to make an adjustment. Also, always check that the king pins are properly tightened and functioning. Untimely elimination of minor faults can lead to the need for overhaul of the front axle.

Repair of this unit begins with the dismantling of the bridge. On a loaf and a "goat", these works are performed identically. There are only minor differences. When performing repair actions, you need to be extremely careful. Removing the bridge consists of a series of simple steps:

• You should start by ensuring that the vehicle is stationary. For this, anti-rollback brake pads are installed;
• Further on the "goat" the brake pipes are disconnected from the hoses. On the Loaf, the tubes have transition pipes. In this case, the hoses are disconnected from the nozzles;
• Remove the nuts securing the lower shock absorber cups. This element is the same on both machines.
• Next, unscrew the bolts connecting the drive gear flange and the front universal joint. Before that, you need to fill in the WD-40 threaded connection;
• Remove the thrust from the bipod. The nut on the ball pin is twisted;
• Unscrew the nuts that secure the spring ladders. Disassemble them with overlays;
• They will jack up the frame in front of the car, roll out the bridge.

Some UAZ 469 vehicles are equipped with springs. In this case, the penultimate item will look a little different. The penultimate action removes the anti-roll bar by disconnecting it from the longitudinal suspension arms. Levers and traverse rods are unscrewed from the bracket.

Repair... After disassembly, all parts are washed in gasoline and lubricated. Defective ones are replaced with new ones. The assembly takes place exactly the opposite, while it is necessary to clarify some of the nuances of the process.

When replacing the pivot bushings specifically in the ball bearing, after pressing, they must be tightened to 25 mm. Put some grease inside. Do-it-yourself repair of the front axle of UAZ Loaf and UAZ 469 is not so difficult, but accuracy is needed. For example, when installing a ball seal, the ring for it must be impregnated with hot oil.After assembly, the functionality of the bridge is checked using a stand.

Many Internet users in Yandex or Google enter a similar request - "repair of the front axle UAZ 469". This means that they are interested in how to repair the front or rear axle on the UAZ by themselves. Of course, the procedure for disassembling and repairing the bridge is described in special books on repair and operation, which are not a problem to get now. However, to disassemble with your own hands that the front and the rear axle to the last screw is, to put it mildly, not an easy task. It may turn out that you just need to replace some small part, for access to which you do not have to disassemble everything.

Here are just some of the possible options for bridge breakdowns on the UAZ 469 (Hunter, Patriot, "loaf"):

1. Differential is worn, gear case is bent
2. Critical wear of the main gear in the gearbox
3. Wear of the steering knuckle (ball joint, trunnion) on the front axle
4. The appearance of large gaps in pivot connections
5. Bearings are worn and require adjustment
6. Spraying items requiring lubrication

It can be difficult to understand what happened to your car from the above, however, you can often even localize the problem by ear. If an increased noise or hum is heard from the front or rear axle (even in neutral gear), the gearbox is most likely worn out (repair is required), or the bearings require lubrication. If your car "yawns" from side to side and the steering is in order - the problem can sit in the trunnion, CV joint or in the incorrect installation of the pins fixing the ball joint, as a result of which play appears and the wheel begins to "walk".

A very common malfunction is the departure of the bearing balls, which are located in the SHRUS. They fly out just due to incorrect adjustment of the pins, as a result of which the geometric center of the CV joint and the trunnion do not coincide. As a result, the semi-axle "walks" in the seat and gradually breaks. The CV joint itself is also damaged. And when turning from the side of the wheel, a crunch is heard and at the same time the wheel can wedge. During the repair process, some craftsmen simply throw out all the balls, except for the centering one (by additionally welding it) - in order to get rid of the problem of their constant flying out.

Steering knuckle of the front axle UAZ 469, assy

But this does not save for long, there are even cases when the welded ball breaks off during the ride, the loads are so high there. It is much more effective to do the adjustment of the pivots. It is necessary to achieve such a state in which the line passing through the pivots and the center of the semiaxis will intersect at one point. And it is at this point that the center of the CV joint should be located. The displacement of the semi-axle left-right, as shown in the figure, is unacceptable, it must be rigidly fixed, for this, thrust rings and bushings are provided in the design.

Bushing seat

And now we will consider the process of removing the kingpin on the UAZ 469. For this procedure, you can use a special puller, however, it is quite possible to make it yourself. All you need is a plate with a bolt hole, a washer and 2 nuts. The plate will rest against other bolts around the perimeter, and the center bolt will just pull the kingpin out of the seat.

The process of pressing the kingpin

Before you start adjusting, prepare everything you need: bushings in the trunnion (if there is a working out on the trunnion), thrust bushings 4 pieces, as well as oil seals. The main condition for the adjustment is that the two halves of the CV joint do not dangle, both when driving straight ahead and when turning! The procedure is as follows:

1. Take the ball joint and press the bushing there so that half of the CV joint does not hang out in the ball joint.
2. There is a persistent washer on top, be sure to put a new one, even if the old one looks in good condition.
3. Take a metal shaft (you can make it from a valve, for example) on both sides of which there are cones and put a washer on it with a diameter like a central ball, that is, 27 mm. Place one edge against the center of the king pin. Ideally, the second edge should also be in the center of the king pin. If this is not the case, place the adjusting washers in the same place where the persistent one is, or rather, under it.

There should be bronze bushings in these places.

During the assembly process after repair, it is necessary to lubricate all the bolts with nigrol, so that the next time everything can be easily unscrewed. All mating surfaces (the junction of the trunnion and the steering knuckle housing) must be cleaned of dirt. It is not recommended to lubricate the CV joint with grease, as it is thick. When heated under the action of centrifugal force, the entire grease is scattered along the walls of the ball joint, but it is necessary that the balls of the CV joint are abundantly lubricated. To do this, it is recommended to dilute the solid oil by half with nigrol.

After final assembly and repair, there is another important adjustment to be made. This is an adjusting pivot bolt. This is the bolt that limits the maximum steering angle of the wheel. It is important not to overdo it, do not tighten the bolt all the way - otherwise the wheel will wedge. Tighten almost to the end, and then try to turn the wheel (more precisely, the shaft on which it will stand). It is necessary to unscrew the bolt back until the wheel stops wedging. In this case, the angle of rotation should not be lower than the factory one. Well, now you yourself can repair the front axle on the 469 UAZ!

If we consider the design of the UAZ 469 front axle from the point of view of the arrangement of the middle part of the bridge girder, differential and main gear, we can draw an analogy with the rear driving axle. The front axle is distinguished primarily by the design features of the wheel drive, which includes a gearbox and universal joints of equal angular velocities (see Fig.). A flange is used to connect the axle shaft housing (1) to the ball joint (3). The hinge body (5) is attached to the support using two pins (4). The gearbox cover (6) is bolted to this body, on which the trunnion (11) and the brake shield (12) are installed.

To reduce the wear of axle elements and fuel consumption while driving on hard road surfaces, it is recommended to turn off not only the UAZ front axle, but also the front wheel hubs. For this purpose, the protective caps are removed and the bolts are unscrewed from the shaft hole. As a result, the coupling is set in such a position that the annular signal groove on its surface is located in the same plane as the flange end. After the clutch is in the desired position, you can begin to tighten the protective cap.

The front wheel is engaged by tightening the bolts securely. The scheme of the bridge device provides for strictly simultaneous on and off for both wheels. In order to turn on the UAZ 469 bridge, you must first turn on both wheels without fail.

Repair of the front axle used on a UAZ 469 vehicle requires knowledge of the wheel reducer, the circuit of which is similar to the wheel reducer of the rear axle. The main difference lies in the mounting and fastening of the drive gear, as well as in the design features of the ball bearing installed in a special glass.

Repair and maintenance of the UAZ 469 front axle during operation requires, first of all, periodic checking and adjustment of the following parameters:

• threaded connections that need to be tightened from time to time;
• checking pivot connections for gaps;
• regulation of bearings;
• gear clutch repair;
• convergence check;
• adherence to the specifications in the lubricant table.

Visual inspection of the steering knuckles involves a thorough examination of the assemblies for the serviceability of the adjusting bolts, wheel steering limit stops and checking the reliability of locking these elements. The diagram of the front axle device provides for the maximum angle of rotation of the left and right wheels in the respective directions, which is 28 ° for UAZ 469 and 27 ° for UAZ 469B. A larger value of this parameter causes damage to the steering knuckle joints, as a result of which the repair becomes much more difficult.

At the factory, the steering knuckle pins are pre-tensioned. In this case, the same number of special gaskets are installed from below and from above. During the operation of the bridge, it is necessary to pay special attention to the state of tightening of the pins. The tightening is loosened as a result of wear of the rubbing surfaces. Axial gaps appear between the support rings and the ends of the pivots, which must be eliminated by removing the same number of spacers in the upper and lower parts. The total thickness of the spacers above and below should be practically the same, the maximum allowable difference is 0.1 mm.

Unplanned front axle repairs may be required if the front wheel angles are not properly checked. These angles largely determine not only the handling and stability of the car on the road, but also the degree of tire wear. In order to check the correctness of the angles, the machine is placed on a horizontal surface. The driving front axle diagram provides for the following wheel alignment angles:

• longitudinal slope of pivots - 3 ° ± 30 ′;
• camber - 1 ° 30 '± 15'.

Values ​​of the king pin lateral slope angles:

• for UAZ 469 - 8 °;
• for UAZ 469B - 5 ° 30 ′.

The wheel alignment is checked depending on how worn the rubber is. In order to adjust the toe-in, the machine is placed on a horizontal surface, the wheels are turned in the direction of forward motion. The toe value, shown in the photo as the difference between the distances A and B, can be from 1.5 to 3 mm. To check and adjust the toe-in horizontally, loosen the lock nuts with the left and right threads, and then change the length of the steering tie rod.

Repair of the UAZ front suspension

Before carrying out work, the front axle must be removed from the machine and disassembled. Repair includes rinsing parts, assessing their condition and suitability for subsequent use. The crankcase, differential and final drive are repaired in the same way as the rear axle elements. In the event of deformation of the axle shaft housing, the restoration is carried out only in a cold state.

The front axle of the UAZ 469 is dismantled in the following order.

1. Pads are installed under the rear wheels of the car.
2. The brake pipes installed on the side members are disconnected from the flexible hose connected to the wheel brakes. Unscrew and remove the nuts with which the hoses are attached.
3. Remove the nuts holding the lower parts of the shock absorbers.
4. Unscrew the bolts with which the propeller shaft is connected to the flange of the drive gear.
5. Disconnect the rod from the bipod and remove the nut on its ball pin.
6. Unscrew the nuts securing the stepladders of the front springs, and then dismantle the linings, pads and stepladders.
7. The front part of the UAZ 469 is lifted by the frame.

If the axle is equipped with a spring suspension, steps 1-5 are followed, after which the anti-roll bar is disconnected from the trailing arms, and the transverse link and trailing arms from the corresponding brackets.

The front axle disassembly process includes the following steps.

1. The bridge is installed on the stand, the wheel nuts are twisted and the wheels are dismantled.
2. Remove the nut with which the thrust pin is attached to the fist arm. Dismantle the bipod thrust.
3. Unscrew the screws that allow you to remove the brake drums.
4. Dismantle the wheel shut-off clutches.
5. Straightening the edges of the locking washer, twist the nut and locknut, and then remove the washer together with the inner ring and the rollers of the outer bearing of the wheel hubs.
6. Dismantle the hubs.
7. Twist the bolts securing the brake shields, remove the trunnions and shields. Take out the steering knuckles.
8. Remove the steering link rod by unscrewing the nuts securing the fingers.
9. Twist the bolts connecting the ball joint and the half-axle casing. The stops limiting the rotation of the wheels are removed, the supports are pressed out of the casings.
10. Remove the lever and adjusting gaskets on the steering knuckle body by twisting the nuts.
11. Remove the nuts securing the adjacent knuckle pivot pad on top, and then remove this pad together with the adjusting gaskets. Similarly, remove the bottom pads together with the gaskets.
12. The ball seal is removed by unscrewing the bolts.
13. The pivots are pressed out using a special device and the fist body is removed.

Lubrication in the steering knuckle is required

If it becomes necessary to disassemble the steering knuckle without removing the front axle, do the following:

• pads are placed under the rear wheels of the car;
• using a jack, raise the wheel on the side where disassembly will be performed;
• perform the procedures listed in paragraphs 2-10;
• twist the nuts securing the pivot lever or the bolts securing the upper pad of the body kingpin, dismantle the pad or lever, including the adjusting gaskets;
• similarly remove the bottom cover;
• twist the bolts securing the ball seal oil seal;
• The pivots are pressed out and the fist body is dismantled.

Back to the table of contents

The assembly of the front axle used in the UAZ 469 is carried out in the reverse order. In this case, the following nuances must be taken into account.

Before assembling and installing the ball seal, the felt inner ring is impregnated with heated engine oil.

Having assembled the front axle, it must be checked at the stand in a calm state and under the load created by simultaneous braking of the axle shafts.

The absence of overheating, high noise levels and oil leaks in the oil seals, cuffs, covers and connections indicates the correct assembly.

• How the front axle of UAZ works, its disassembly and repair
• How the front axle of UAZ works
• Possible bridge failures and their causes
• How to remove the front axle
• How to disassemble the bridge
• Dismantling the steering knuckle without removing the axle
• How to extend the life of the front axle, operating tips

UAZ vehicles cannot be called a very common group of vehicles on modern roads, but despite this, people are often interested in issues related to the design features of the front or rear axle or troubleshooting other units and systems of these machines. Considering this fact, in this article we will consider the device of the front axle of the UAZ using the example of the 3741 model, or, as it is also called, “loaves”.

The old-style front axles, which include part of the UAZ-3741 design, do not differ much from similar new elements of the "Spicer" type. The fundamental differences between them lie only in the design of the crankcase, the dimensions of the constituent parts of the final drive and differential, as well as in some of the parts used.

The main part of the old axle is made up of a split crankcase, which consists of two divided halves, into each of which casings are pressed into with the axle shafts available inside. The covers are also provided for the presence of safety valves, which are responsible for limiting the increase in oil pressure in the system.

The main gear and differential are located in the crankcase, which have a standard device: a drive gear with a small diameter is located in the horizontal direction and is connected to the cardan.It engages with a large driven gear which is positioned longitudinally. A differential is placed inside the driven gear, consisting of four satellites located on two axles and two semi-axle gears.

On the edges of the crankcase there are pivot assemblies, which include ball bearings with housings of the pivots (or pivots) on them. On the side opposite to the axle shaft, the trunnions themselves are attached to the trunnion housings, in which the wheel hub is mounted by means of two bearings. In the housings of the ball joints, there are hinges of equal angular velocities (CV joints), the outer trunnions of which are located in the hubs.

The main feature of the front axles of the UAZ is the presence in them of a mechanism for connecting the wheel hub with the semi-axle, which is made in the form of a clutch, with which it is possible to connect or disconnect the hub and the pivot of the hinge. This is what guarantees the transmission of torque from the differential to the wheel.

When the clutch is disengaged, the wheel hub can rotate freely on the trunnion, which means that the car will have a 4 × 2 wheel arrangement... In the event that the clutch is engaged, the wheel hub through the CV joint will be connected to the semi-axle and differential, and the car becomes all-wheel drive - 4 × 4. The front axles of the old representatives of UAZ, the design features of which are also characteristic of the "loaves", were equipped with hubs with drum brakes installed on them. To control the wheelbase on the bridge there are steering knuckle levers (located at the top of the steering knuckle housings) and steering rods connected to them.

The main faults of the front axle should be attributed the formation of leaks of lubricating fluids, excessive wear of fasteners, defects in bearings, axle shafts, as well as mechanical damage to the beam and wear of components. The reasons for these malfunctions can be very diverse. For example, if a rear-wheel drive car is equipped with front-wheel drive, then driving on uneven road sections will damage the transmission components. The use of winter gear oil in summer or flight fluid in winter can lead to a similar effect, which in any case will not have the best effect on the functioning of the car. Also, remember to maintain constant tire pressure to help prevent bearing and shaft problems.

As for the most common cause of various malfunctions of the front axle of the UAZ 3741, then, in most cases, the reason for their appearance is a violation of the axial clearance of the pivots. To check whether it is broken or not, it is enough to raise the front of the car with a jack and try to swing the wheel up and down. If axial play is observed, then it will be necessary to adjust the clearance of the pivots.

Considering that the UAZ-3741 has a frame structure, then dismantling the front axle will not be particularly difficult. To complete the task, you will need durable and high-quality jack, stops, which can withstand one and a half tons, and a special liquid WD-40, helping to unscrew rusted nuts.

The procedure for removing the front axle is as follows:

1. Place stops under the rear wheels and make sure that the vehicle is securely fixed.
2. Disconnect the right and left brake pipes from the rubber hoses to the front brake drums.
3. Unscrew the nuts securing the brake hoses and dismantle the hoses themselves.
4. Unscrew the fastening nuts of the lower ends of the shock absorber and the bolts connecting the propeller shaft to the drive gear flange.
5. Unscrew and unscrew the bipod ball pin nut and disconnect the tie rod from it.
6. Now it is necessary to unscrew the fasteners (nuts) of the ladder of the front springs and remove the part (ladder) together with gaskets and linings.
7. At the last stage of work, lift the front of the car by the frame and remove the bridge from under it.

At this point, the removal of the part can be considered complete, and if you decide to repair the front axle, you can proceed with the implementation of your plan.

Domestic off-road conditions cannot scare the owners of UAZ vehicles, but for their proper operation it is necessary to adhere to certain operating rules.

So, for example, UAZ ("loaf") has a front axle, the design of which imposes certain requirements on the control of the machine. Among other things, such axles provide for the disconnection of the wheel hubs and semi-axles, which contributes to an increase in the resource of the axle parts when the front drive is disconnected. Therefore, to turn on the front drive UAZ-3741, you will have to perform two steps: by turning the coupling, connect the wheel hub to the axle shaft, and then, using the lever, turn on the front drive.

In order not to damage the components of the structure, you can turn on the front-wheel drive only after turning on the clutches, both on an idle car and during its movement at a speed of no more than 40 km / h. If the drive engaging lever does not want to take the operating position when the car is off, then you need to start the engine and switch it on the go.

As soon as the machine overcomes the problem section of the road, perform all actions in the reverse order: stop the vehicle, disengage the front axle using the lever and turn the clutch caps to the “4 × 2” position. After that, the car will be able to continue its movement as a normal rear-wheel drive vehicle.

Nevertheless, in the off-season and with constant use of the UAZ-3741 in off-road conditions, the clutches may not be disconnected, it is enough to adhere to a moderate speed mode.

Particularly noteworthy is the transmission oil poured into the axle, the replacement of which should be carried out in a timely manner (according to the manufacturer's recommendations - every 40,000 km of run or more often, depending on the specific operating conditions, the age of the vehicle and the quality of the lubricant filled in). It is also necessary to periodically change the oil in the CV joint, wheel hubs and steering knuckles, and in the drive axles of the "Spicer" type, the guide bushings of the disc brakes are additionally lubricated.

Regular maintenance and proper operation of the front and rear axles of the UAZ-3741 is a guarantee of reliable operation of the vehicle for many years.

Assemble the differential in the following order:

1. Before assembling the differential, lubricate the side gears, satellites, thrust washers and pinions with gear oil.

2. Install thrust washers on the axle shaft gear journals.

3. Install the side gear with thrust washer assembly into the left gear box.

4. Install the satellites on the axle of the split cross-piece.

Rice. 7. Pressing out the outer ring of the differential bearing

5. Install the split crosspiece (Fig. 1) with the satellites into the left box of the satellites.

Rice. 8. Installation of satellite boxes by tags

6. Install the side gear with thrust washer assembly into the right gear box. Keeping the semiaxis gear, install the right cup of the satellites on the left so that the marks (Fig. 2) (serial numbers) of both cups are aligned.

7. Bolt the halves together and tighten. Tightening torque 32–40 Nm (3.2–4.0 kgf).

8. Install the final drive gear on the planetary gear box, aligning the bolt holes. Install the bolts and tighten. The tightening torque is 98–137 N · m (10–14 kgf · m). At the assembled differential, the gears of the semi-axles must be turned using a spline mandrel from a force of no more than 59 N (6 kgf) applied at a radius of 80 mm. Adjust the differential bearings (if replaced) in the following order:

Rice. 9. Pre-pressing of the inner rings of the differential bearings

1. Press on the inner bearing races (fig.9) the differential on the journals of the assembled differential so that there is a gap of 3.5-4.0 mm between the ends of the satellite box and the ends of the inner rings of the bearings.

Rice. 10. Rolling in differential bearing rollers

There is no blocking, there is a free differential.

This is what the nuances that are not written about in modern books mean.

Vasya, and if the place of the guide hexagon is carved into the guide in the ball and in diameter under the bearing in the trunnion, and thereby the kingpin will be adjusted and everything will be set in the centers.

Everything is good, but too rough measurements.

Of course, the differential in the gearbox uazomost is not initially self-locking, except that someone prikolhozit IN THIS BRIDGE a lock from the armored personnel carrier. however the autopsy will show) We are waiting for the second part)

Thanks for the science, we look forward to continuing with the limited slip differential. If it is not difficult to describe the principle of its operation. It is clear how the differential and how it works with the forced blocking, but there is no understanding with the self-blocking unit.

I will look forward to the second part of the video.

You speak so clumsily, it’s so hard for you that I already have a headache 🙂 no offense, but such an impression. Better speak Ukrainian, as I understand it is your native language. Well, besides that, everything is fine, you tell it in an interesting and intelligible way.

The correctness of the formulation of sentences and in general speech will improve over time. Keep it up, do not stop - all "reviewers" go through this. Few studied for the announcer.

Like and subscribe from me. Another question: I installed a collective farm UAZ bridge on a homemade mini tractor, and if I change it to a military one, will the mini tractor go back in forward gears due to the reverse motion in the wheel gears?

Uncle Vasya, everything is fine))) Thank you))))

I learned a lot, I thought I know everything aa nnnet okatsa))) thanks! well done, very informative

Vasily, YOUNG. Your lessons come in handy. I have great respect for such people who try and shoot such instructive lessons. Peace to your home!

Vasya, share the drawings for the installation of the centers, those that are on the video there are two of them. Thank you.

That's what Master means. Video fire, learned a lot. Thank you

there are no blockages in the stock on "military bridges". where this bike came from is not known.

There is a bronze bushing in the axle. Only she on the other hand is not 18mm deep. After installation, go through a 32mm sweep. I did not see the spring ring in the axle that presses the bearing

In modern products, there is no bronze bushing in the ball joint. It is possible that it was staged a long time ago, in the 70s. For some reason, it is very easy for the cage to fit into the steering knuckle housing under the CV joint bearing. It should not be.

Mdaaa. It seemed so harsh to fuck Google translator, it seemed not real, but no). Bravo!

Vasily explained coolly, so to speak, the adjustment manual for which is not enough, but maybe not!

Author, stop talking like a robot

how to ruglerovka steering UAZ hunter

Please tell me how and how to remove the small bearing that you pressed in at 10:50 pm I can't do it - I can't put on the puller, the gap between the clip and the gear is scanty.

why unscrew the back Grishka of the military bridge

Why did a self-block appear on the military bridge by default? What nonsense, there is the same satellite block as in the collective farm or in the spicer.

Good health to you, Vasily! We are waiting for the razdatka! )))

please tell me what is the difference between the ball joint of the military bridge and the collective farm

Thank you for the advice, you explain everything in great detail and clearly, good luck.

Hello. Please tell me whether the collective farm and the warriors have the same size of the CV joint balls or not

Can you please tell me, is a ball joint (ball) from a collective farm bridge to a military one suitable?

thanks, everything is very competent and manly

Hello! Vasily, please tell me what improvements are needed to put military bridges instead of collective farm bridges on the UAZ-452. Thanks in advance!

Vasily, good afternoon. Thank you for the video. During the repair of the front axle, I decided to replace the bearings with imported ones.The problem is that in our stores there is no imported 304 roller bearing, there are ball bearings in the same SKF and NSK sizes. Is it possible to install a ball-type instead of a roller one? What do you think about this?

Thank you for such instructions, I think I can save instead of a washer with a diameter of a ball, which, the ball itself, can be drilled and drilled from the sides, you can release it and then drill, even it seems to me that this washer does not exactly show the center. thanks.

Say, in a 22m35s roller, you install a thrust ring between the bearing and the gear. When disassembling my bridge, there was no such ring. When looking through the online catalog of spare parts, I did not find it either. How important is this stubborn ring, or can you do without it?

respekt gute arbeit gruss aus salzburg respectfully good job

Greetings Vasily! You are not adjusting the shruz correctly. In theory, everything seems to be correct, but on real bridges, if you put 207 and a small roller bearing, the axle shaft will look to the side and rest against the oil seal holder and will wedge. Give 1 - 1.5 mm from center when adjusting king pins. It is easier afterwards to turn the side axle upward and move the pins so that the axle shaft stands exactly in the center. But in this position, a slight backlash will appear in the central ball, if the backlash is selected in the center position. But it's not bad either. A backlash of 0.1 -0.2 mm should be there.

Good day. What is better to put gaskets on salidol or sealant?

Steering knuckle repair, disassembly, troubleshooting

Do you want more video tutorials? Bridge repair - replacement of the main pair of UAZ. Review of a mini-tractor - the main thing is to want and everything will work out. SHRUS UAZ, Beerfield / Weiss / Willis / Crosspieces. rear axle UAZ. ► GAZ 66, UAZ 469, NIVA, Pajero, LuAZ 969 in the swamp [Off-Road 4 × 4]. UAZ 469 - Repair of the military front axle - Part 2. UAZ - replacement of pins and restoration of parts. Body restoration. Repair errors. Construction of UAZ from A to Z. UAZ / GAZ / GAZEL - Bridge repair - Part 2 - Adjustment and assembly. UAZ 469 - Repair of the military front axle - Part 1. UAZ - all-terrain vehicles. They swim and ride where the roads end. UAZ 469 A living legend on the road. Front axle of tractor Belarus 82.1. UAZ against off-road | mud cars. Installation of KR VOiN 4x4, on civil UAZ bridges.