DIY bosch perforator gearbox repair

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of the bosch perforator gearbox from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

An electric rock drill is perhaps the most popular device that I use at construction sites, repairs, etc.

This tool is operated in rather harsh conditions - vibration, increased dustiness, power surges and others. All this, sooner or later, leads to the fact that the tool will fail and require repair.

An electric rock drill is a complex engineering product that consists of assemblies that ensure the movement of a chuck with a drill installed in it. Basically, a hammer drill is a device that converts electrical energy into mechanical energy.

Depending on the operating conditions, this device may have mechanical and electrical problems.

The hammer drill scheme is pretty close to that of an electric drill. One of the differences is that instead of an ordinary gear pair transmitting torque to the tool, a full-fledged gearbox is mounted in the hammer drill. It is designed to convert the torque generated by the electric motor into the reciprocating movement of the chuck.

Malfunctions requiring repair can occur in almost any part of the device. But before starting the repair, it is required to diagnose the breakdown and identify the reasons that led to its appearance.

It should be noted that detecting a breakdown is not difficult, but sometimes you have to disassemble the punch body for this.

Like any technical device, an electric rock drill has some weak points in its design. It is they who are the cause of breakdowns that require repair. It is not uncommon for a perforator to fail due to the fault of a worker who operates it at extreme modes and in violation of operating rules.

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It must be understood that the main faults occur in the electrical or mechanical part. In the mechanical part, the following problems most often occur:

the device does not perform its main functions - drilling and drilling;
jamming of the drill in the chuck;
the nozzle is not installed in the chuck;
extraneous noise during the operation of the device.

In an electrician, the following defects are most often manifested:

the engine does not work;
excessive sparking of brushes;
the appearance of burning or the smell of burnt insulation.

The beginning of the repair begins with cleaning the body of the device. This is necessary at least to prevent dirt from getting into the disassembled perforator.

When repairing an electric rock drill, there is often a need to disassemble it. But before you start it, you need to make sure once again that the problems have arisen precisely in the mechanical part of the device. We will analyze in detail what problems are encountered and how they can be eliminated

Untimely maintenance, poorly performed repairs, operation of the hammer drill in extreme modes can lead to the fact that any part that is part of this mechanism can fail. To identify defects in the gearbox, it is necessary to disassemble it, rinse the parts and then carry out a thorough inspection.

Revealed damaged parts must be replaced with new ones. Then assemble the gearbox, of course, you need to put grease into it. By the way, the brand of lubricant must be indicated in the operating manual.

If the nozzle does not enter the working position, then most likely the reason lies in the cartridge. To eliminate this defect, there is no need to disassemble the tool. As a rule, interference with the installation of the nozzle consists in the fact that any debris has got into the chuck.

To identify malfunctions in the mode switching device, the punch will still have to be disassembled. In principle, a defect can be identified by a careful examination of the switching mechanism.

Mode switch repair

In principle, the main components are listed, in which breakdowns most often occur and require repair. Meanwhile, there are several more types of defects that can arise for various reasons. For example, there is no impact hammer mode. That is, the drill rotates together with the chuck, but does not have an impact on the working surface. The most common cause, in this case, is a floating bearing. Damage to the steel striker may be another cause of this malfunction. In both cases, replacement of the defective part is required.

It is not uncommon for the engine to run when the tool is turned on, but the chuck does not rotate. This happens most often because the gearbox is stuck. By the way, keep the hammer turned on for a long time, it is unacceptable when the chuck is inoperative, the motor winding may burn out. The hammer drill will have to be disassembled and defects in the gearbox removed. They can be caused either by damage to the gears or by debris falling into it.

Another defect is that the chuck cannot fix the drill. This problem can arise with a tool that has been in use for a long time. The cause of this problem lies in the wear of the retainer housing mount.

Malfunctions associated with the electrical part of the hammer drill can also cause serious problems. By the way, a failure in work can be caused by a trivial lack of voltage in the outlet.

By the way, troubleshooting should start with less. That is, it is necessary to check the presence of power in the electrical network, the integrity of the wire and outlet.

By and large, if the instrument does not show any signs of life, it is likely that the electrical part of the instrument is out of order. The main electrical defects include the following:

Any electrical device can be connected for testing. If there is voltage in the network, then it is necessary to check the integrity of the cable.

To identify this defect, they inspect it, then, using a tester, ring it. To eliminate a cable break, you can either solder it or twist it. But it's best to replace it.

The cause of this defect may be elementary oxidation of the contacts in the button. To test this assumption, it is necessary to dismantle the rear casing cover. If there are no visible signs of oxidation, it is advisable to use a tester. To correct this malfunction, you can clean the contacts, but it is better to replace the power button.

With prolonged and intensive use of the perforator, the brushes wear out, through which electric current flows to the motor. With a lot of wear, they begin to spark and a burning smell appears. The brush must be at least 8 mm long.

Upon reaching this and smaller size, they are replaced. The replacement procedure is quite simple and anyone who is not even familiar with the basics of electrical engineering can handle it.If this problem is identified, it is advisable to replace the entire assembly. But, in fairness, it should be noted that this defect is not common.This is probably the worst defect that can occur with an electric tool. The user should understand that it is better not to repair the engine on his own. For this, there are specialized workshops equipped with all the necessary repair and diagnostic equipment.When the engine is running, a certain layer of carbon deposits forms on the manifold. You can remove it yourself and then try to enable it. If this operation does not help, then it is necessary to ring the armature and stator. There are certain requirements for the resistance in the windings.Repair of these units is permissible only in an electrical workshop.It is permissible to do this work at home, but only if you have special equipment and certain knowledge about the operation of the electric motor. This operation, performed at home, will significantly reduce the cost of repairing the hammer drill as a whole.Important! Repair of the device is carried out with the tool disconnected from the electrical network.To repair and restore the functionality of the tool, you will need some keys, both ordinary open-end and hexagons, screwdrivers with different slots. A puller will be required to remove the bearings.Disassembly and assembly of the perforator must be carried out using the kinematic and electrical circuits of the perforator.To diagnose a faulty hammer drill, most often there is no need to use special equipment and tools, with the exception of a tester and a device for rewinding the motor.

The principle of operation of the Bosch rotary hammer

The principle of operation of perforators is the same, but the design features are different.

The main parts used in the listed models of Bosch rotary hammers are interchangeable. This applies to the mechanical and electrical assembly.

But there are knots and made that differ in the details used.

To repair a Bosch rotary hammer 2–20, 2–24, 2–26, you need to know these differences. Knowledge of the design features of each rotary hammer facilitates the repair process, finding breakdowns and eliminating them.

The designs of Bosch rotary hammers are so simple that they allow you to perform simple repairs, practically with your own hands, and replace any part without contacting service services. You need to have the skills of an assembler, have basic knowledge of electrical engineering and understand the principle of the hammer drill.

When repairing a Bosch hammer drill, you will not do without an electrical and disassembly diagram for the tool of the model you are going to repair.

The wiring diagrams of Bosch rotary hammers 2–20, 2–24, 2–26 are practically the same. Although there are some non-fundamental differences.

But the mechanical blocks are equipped with parts that differ structurally from each other. The main differences are collected in two nodes: in the intermediate shaft and the shaft of the barrel of the impact block.

The greatest differences are presented in the design of the intermediate shaft, in the assembly of the "drunken bearing", in the mode switch. Non-fundamental features are present in the designs of the barrel of the percussion block, striker, striker.

Let's start with the Bosch 2–20 rotary hammer.

Repair of a Bosch 2–20 rotary hammer is not possible without knowledge of the design of the tool being repaired.

The principle of operation of the Bosch 2–20 hammer drill is based on the transmission of torque from the rotor shaft, pos. 3, to the shaft of the impact unit, pos. 22, through the intermediate shaft, pos. 824, while simultaneously transmitting a longitudinal impulse to the working tool.

The rotor pos. 3 transmits the torque to the helical gear of the intermediate shaft pos. 824.

Drill diagram Bosch 2-20

The helical gear is fixed on the intermediate shaft and transmits the torque to the shaft. A drunk bearing is fixed on the shaft, which receives the torque through the clutch. Due to its design, the drunk bearing transmits the translational motion to the barrel cylinder of the percussion mechanism.

The intermediate shaft of the Bosch 2–20 perforator consists of a rolling bearing assembly (drunk bearing), a clutch, a large helical gear, and a small spur gear.

Most often, breakdowns are manifested in the wear of the clutch splines, which leads to the loss of rotation of the drill chuck in the presence of a shock pulse.

It is corrected by replacing the clutch or restoring the teeth of the clutch parts.

View of the intermediate shaft rotary hammer Bosch 2-20

It is best to start repairing a Bosch 2-24 hammer drill with an acquaintance with the diagram and design features of the tool being adjusted. The operating principle of the Bosch 2–24 rotary hammer is similar to that of the Bosch 2–20 rotary hammer.

The torque is transmitted to the tool holder shaft, simultaneously with the transmission of the shock impulse. The hammer drill has three operating modes: drilling with impact, drilling without impact, impact.

The helical gear wheel of the rotor, poz.803 transmits the torque to the helical gear of the intermediate shaft, pos. 826.

Drill diagram Bosch 2-24

The intermediate shaft of the Bosch 2-24 perforator consists of a rolling bearing unit pos. 830, a clutch pos. 823, and shift parts pos. 44. Most often, the clutch fails. Teeth wear out in it. Clutch repair consists in correcting the tooth profile of the engagement in the clutch and on the intermediate shaft.

Intermediate shaft perforator Bosch 2-24 assy

The barrel shaft of the striking unit is designed to transmit a rotational impulse with the simultaneous movement of the striker.

Rotation is transmitted from the spur gear of the intermediate shaft to the large spur gear pos. 22 of the barrel shaft pos. 821.

The reciprocating motion is transmitted through a drunk bearing, pos. 830, an impact piston, pos. 26, a firing pin, pos. 27, an impact bolt, pos. 28, to a drill fixed in a chuck, pos. 756.

The design is a hollow shaft on one side. Parts are installed on the shaft from both sides.

From the side of the chuck mounting, a spur gear, pos. 22, is installed on the shaft and fixed on the shaft by means of a roller, pos. 88, pressed against the shoulder of the shaft by a spring, pos. 80. The spring itself is fixed with a retaining ring, pos. 85.

In the cavity of the shaft of the barrel of the impact block is inserted: the assembled impact bolt pos. 28 and the impact piston. In the impact piston, pos. 26, is inserted the firing pin, pos. 27, with a new rubber ring, pos. 73, placed on it. All rubber products are lubricated with the recommended lubricant.

Due to the weakening of the spring force, falling out of the fixing roller, the gear can turn on the shaft. This is manifested in the disappearance of the angular momentum with the presence of a shock impulse.

When rubber products (O-rings) wear out, the perforator stops working in the "Chiseling" mode. This happens gradually. The impact force weakens as the rubber rings wear. The thing is that the movement is transmitted from the drunk bearing to the impact piston, pos. 26, in which the firing pin, pos. 27, creates air pressure and acts on the impact bolt, pos. 28.

If you apply a lot of force during the operation of the hammer drill, this can lead to the destruction of the impact bolt, jamming of the striker in the impact piston. Such malfunctions are eliminated only by complete replacement of the failed part. Learn more about troubleshooting a Bosch rotary hammer.

Repair of the Bosch 2-26 rotary hammer should begin with familiarizing yourself with the design features of the tool being adjusted. The operating principle of the Bosch 2–24 rotary hammer is similar to that of the Bosch 2–26 rotary hammer.

Drill diagram Bosch 2-26

Rotation is transmitted from the rotor shaft, through the intermediate shaft, to the shock barrel shaft.At the same time, a drunk bearing attached to the intermediate shaft transmits a reciprocating motion to the impact piston.

The hammer drill has three operating modes: drilling with impact, drilling without impact, impact.

The helical gear wheel of the rotor, pos. 803, transmits the torque to the helical gear of the intermediate shaft, pos. 823.

The intermediate shaft is similar to the shaft in the design of the Bosch 2-24 rock drill and is interchangeable between itself and the parts that make up the intermediate shaft of the Bosch 2–24, 2–26 rock drills. Instructions for disassembling the Bosch rotary hammer.

The barrel shaft of the percussion block is similar in design to the barrel shaft of the Bosch 2-24 rock drill. Failures are caused by faults in the same parts as in the Bosch 2-24 rotary hammer.

Diagram of the barrel of the percussion mechanism

Features of the shaft of the Bosch 2-26 perforator is that the driven large spur gear, pos. 22, is fixed on the shaft by three pins, pos. 37, in contrast to the fixing roller in the Bosch 2-26 puncher.

When disassembling the barrel shaft of the percussion block of the Bosch 2-26 perforator, pay attention to the method of fixing the gear. Before removing the gear, you must remove the three pins. The order of the correct assembly of the Bosch rotary hammer.

Knowing the differences between the given models of Bosch rotary hammers will allow you to quickly disassemble the tool, replace defective parts. To do this, you do not need to contact the service department.
Structurally, Bosch rotary hammers are so simple that they allow you to carry out repairs of almost any complexity.
All that is required of you is desire and basic knowledge in mechanics.

It happens that fake models of Bosch rotary hammer come across in more detail about this.

Anyone who has ever had to work with a hammer drill knows how difficult its operating conditions are. That is why do-it-yourself punch repair is such a popular request on the Internet. And today we will tell you absolutely everything regarding the repair of this tool.Undoubtedly, the owners of such expensive equipment want their devices to be of high quality, to do their job 100%. First of all, correct use of the tool will save you from serious damage, which we will talk about a little later. And, of course, the device was repaired on time. At the same time, any small failure should already become a cause for concern and preparation for repair.So, such "beacons" can be:

Unstable work of the punch in the working mode;

The appearance of strange sounds when turning on the punch;

The smell of burning;

The hammer drill does not hammer, although there is no apparent reason for this.

As soon as something like this happens to your equipment, it means it's time to repair. Like any such work, it requires care, understanding the cause of the breakdown and knowledge of how to cope with it. And your very first step in repairing is disassembling the tool into its components. For many, even this stage causes difficulties, and therefore it is necessary to know everything down to the nuances - how, what and why! Image - DIY bosch perforator gearbox repair

Just imagine that your tool suddenly stops working or you urgently need to replace any defective part. The easiest way is to take the hammer drill to a service center for repair, but this takes time, which means it will stop your work for a while. But if you know how the device is disassembled, it will be much easier for you to carry out the rest of the work. In addition, this will lead to significant cost savings, because there will be no need to spend money on paying for the services of repair centers.Instructions for parsing the tool:

We start work, starting from the upper unit: first, the rubber tip is removed, then the washer, the spring, the ball finishes working.

After you have removed the ball, we unscrew the screws that hold the case, remove the cover on the handle, if available, and lastly disconnect the stator wires.

We remove the brush holder.

The next step is to separate the gearbox and housing until a gap forms.It is through it that we will retrieve the switch.

After that, the punch body is placed vertically, with the help of a vise, it is fixed, and all its parts are carefully removed from the device.

Whatever breakdown awaits you, clean the case - sometimes it is dirt and dust that prevent the device from working normally.

Due to the ingress of dust, dirt, moisture, the internal lubricant becomes solid over time and does not fulfill its purpose. The punch starts working.

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