DIY tarpan gear repair

About idle on a new engine - he described his solution to the problem. On Lifan, the normal idle speed is higher - the knives rotate.

1. Modernized Tarpan with a handle from the old Tarpan and a straight hitch. Pay attention to the gap between the brake and the handle, without removing the head - the brake cannot be removed or turned over, a very limited range of adjustments.
2. Rolled weeders (the 2nd is on additional wheels), I am puzzled how to straighten it.

1. Rolled weeders (the 2nd is on additional wheels), I am puzzled how to straighten it.

You probably have them made of plasticine. On my even there are no signs of this. Although, on my blades with a stiffener, the thickness of the metal is similar to yours.

CSpirit wrote:
Pay attention to the gap between the brake and the handle, without removing the head - do not remove the brake or turn it over,

What other design do you have? I calmly take mine down, and no problem. Outwardly similar, the same.

If they were made of plasticine, I would unbend them with my hands.
If you read the posts above, here is the result of crossing parts of the early Tarpan (with the engine from Ant) with the purchased Lifan engine and the gearbox from the new Tarpan. A photo for a deeply respected colleague Poe, shows what happens as a result of replacing the oblique trailed one on the early Tarpan with B&S with a straight one, without replacing the control sticks (unless of course they have them (this is a 1994 release).
On a modern Tarpan, the handle bracket design is different - there are no problems with pulling it out.
Here, parts of the early Tarpan are used - at the other end of the brake there is a flat hiller, when working on cutters - it is at the top, during transportation - at the bottom, like a platform, so that the trunk does not break through.
In 1994, Tarpan was regularly equipped with tools for a full cycle of planting potatoes according to Dutch technology (in high beds), hence the Brake with a flat hiller (if turned over), a long-eared hiller, a set of cutters, weeders, limiters, there was not only a digger.

Video (click to play).

There are discussions on the forumhouse about tarpan, if anyone is interested, type this "Cultivator Tarpan (Tula) - a full report for the year of ownership with a photo"

I didn't have enough patience to read everyone. Therefore, I apologize if the question is repeated. First: I plan to rivet a swivel plate on the trigger. When turned 90 degrees, it will press against the handle. Has the right to life?
Second: W30 oil is recommended for the engine, which I always forget to buy. Is it possible to use 10W40 oil (including on the trimmer), which is always in the car? And is it possible to have half-shin instead of mineral water?

RIE,
Think for yourself, CAE w30 is summer, and if you operated MK in winter. I have 10w30 flooded from the beginning of operation mineral. According to the instructions, the oil is changed to a warm engine. Just do not tip the engine towards the filter, oil may get into it. I usually remove the filter, one at a time, and clean it.

[QUOTE = RIE; 5232052] Everyone did not have enough patience to read. Therefore, I apologize if the question is repeated. First: I plan to rivet a swivel plate on the trigger. When turned 90 degrees, it will press against the handle. Has the right to life?
Take a closer look at the gas control knob of the MB-1 walk-behind tractor, it is not very expensive, but much more convenient than the standard invention of Tula craftsmen. I set it myself - I didn’t regret it, it proved to be a very convenient device.

Good afternoon, tarpanovody.
There is absolutely no time to dig the site and the topic, so sorry if a similar issue has already been covered here.
And the problem I have is the following - there was noise from the clutch and gearbox.He took off the power unit - the clutch is normal.
I disassembled the gearbox housing - the gearbox itself is alive and without signs of wear, I check the oil, change it every season.
But the clutch drum is backlash. The bottom bearing of the worm has no backlash, the top has a slight backlash, but the drum dangles seriously and noisy specifically if it is turned by hand. Apparently, there is also a third bearing under the drum.
I could not pull out the worm and remove the clutch drum - with this I appeal to you, tell me, who had such experience - how to disassemble this unit?

Everything is simply disassembled there. First, the drum is removed, then the lower part of the gearbox housing is unscrewed and everything is pulled out. There are no additional fasteners there.
There are two 205 bearings on the worm and two on the wheel and that's it.

If you saved the operating manual, then everything is drawn in detail there.

Thank you, I understand you.
Found the same manual for Tarpan. There, in the drawing, the drum is bolted to the worm with a bolt or nut, and in my place everything is welding. And in this form and bought it new in the store. Chinese or what?
Apparently, the drum itself needs to be twisted and I don't understand how to do it without a special key or a puller?

2Z wrote:
Thank you, I understand you.
Found the same manual for Tarpan. There, in the drawing, the drum is bolted to the worm with a bolt or nut, and in my place everything is welding. And in this form and bought it new in the store. Chinese or what?
Apparently, the drum itself needs to be twisted and I don't understand how to do it without a special key or a puller?

I don’t remember exactly, I took it apart for a long time, it seems there is a nut.
How can you twist it now? Unless you carefully drill down the weld seam with a drill.

An interesting photo of such a miracle. Maybe we can offer something else.

Victor K. Couldn't upload drum photo here. Only on YouTube. Here is the link ”>

So I understand that you need to twist the drum itself like a nut. And for this you have to fix the worm, i.e. collect everything back, otherwise everything will turn. And then with a hammer on a drum through a drift.
It seemed that not only the bearing itself is inside, but also its seat in the gearbox housing. There is a new bearing. But how to seal its landing in the gearbox housing so that it does not dangle along the outer cage?

2Z wrote:
So I understand that you need to twist the drum itself like a nut.

The video is hard to see (a speck), but nothing is welded there and the shaft is visible. Most likely a tight fit, and rusted.
Look carefully to see if the keyway is visible. If the shaft is not screwed on and there is a groove, then it will not work. Drop a little WD-40 or brake fluid and let it stand for a day. Try to remove.
It will not work, then a more radical way, heating the compound (without fanaticism). It is enough to warm up with a burner to 150-200 degrees (change in the color of the metal) and immediately try to remove it.
If there is no puller, then try to knock out with blows on the shaft through a copper (other soft metal) adapter. Again, without fanaticism.

A threaded boom is welded onto the clutch drum. There is a thread on the shank of the worm shaft. Everything there is spinning normally, if without fanaticism. The bottom of the boot is removed, the bearing is removed from the shaft, the worm wheel is removed. The bottom of the worm shaft is clamped through aluminum spacers in a vice and the clutch drum is twisted. The thread lock is not used at the factory. You can knock gently with a brass punch. I use a homemade return clamp. The clutch drum is very delicate, try not to deform it. In spare parts drums are not polished inside, try to keep your own.
A drum with a keyway fit, was used only on Tarpans with a scooter engine. There is a nut with a figured washer inside the clutch drum.

CSpirit wrote:
A drum with a keyway fit, was used only on Tarpans with a scooter engine.

Yes? And I have a Honda GCV-160 engine, and it fully complies with the drawing in IE.

Rural life leaves a certain imprint not only on the person himself, but also on the type of activity he is engaged in. Living in a village, it is almost impossible to do without a personal vegetable garden, where you can grow various vegetables, herbs and, of course, potatoes.

However, for this to be possible, needed annually perform preliminary soil preparation, i.e. plow and cultivate her so that the crop can grow normally.

Previously, arable work was a rather laborious process, using manual labor and primitive tools, but over time this process has become much easier. This became possible due to the partial automation of the entire process, through the use of such types of special equipment as a walk-behind tractor.

With the help of this device, it is possible to carry out almost the entire range of agricultural work, which makes it practically indispensable in the economy of every summer resident and farmer. In our country, a variety of brands of motoblocks, both domestic and foreign, are popular.

The value of the former lies in the relatively low cost and good performance. These criteria are fully corresponds to the Tarpan walk-behind tractor, which is the brainchild of the production association Tulamashzavod.

Tulamashzavod is a large association of various companies, where it is headed by a joint stock company with a number of subsidiaries.

The main field of activity of these companies is to provide the defense industry with various products, as well as the manufacture of various products for domestic needs. Geographically, the enterprise is located on the site of the former Baytsurovsky plant, organized in 1879.

He specialized in the production of various cast iron and copper products.

In 1912, the plant became part of the Imperial Tula Arms Plant.

Tulamash-Tarpan LLC, which is a subsidiary of Tulamashzavod company, specializes in the manufacture of small agricultural machinery on the territory of our country.

The company has a fairly wide representation in the regions and in neighboring countries - about 70 dealerships. Such wide distribution allows the Tarpan technique to increase its sales every year, as well as to popularize it in other countries.

Motoblocks Tarpan is a real Russian product that combines unconditional quality performance and affordability.

For more details about Tulamashzavod, see the video:

Motoblock Tarpan, the technical characteristics of which we will consider further, began to be produced in 1991. Factory specialists annually improved the main characteristics of the model, wishing to make the unit competitive among motoblocks.

However, in 1995, it was decided to suspend the production of Tarpan motoblocks, considering this business unprofitable. However, thanks to the enthusiasm of individual specialists, the new Tarpan with a foreign engine from Briggs & Stratton received quite good reviews, which led to the serial production of the model.

Since 1997, a new era of Tarpan motoblocks begins, due to the annual growth in production rates and an increase in the competitiveness of this brand.

The lineup motoblocks Tarpan not very big, including several models, which will be discussed below.