Do-it-yourself gas 53 rear axle gearbox repair

In detail: do-it-yourself gas 53 rear axle gearbox repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Dismantling, repair and assembly of the rear axle car GAZ-53-12

Adjustment of the rear axle of the car GAZ-53-12

Rear axle bearings, side clearance and contact in the meshing of the gears are adjusted at the factory. As a rule, they do not require adjustment in operation. Their adjustment is necessary only after the axle bulkhead and replacement of any parts or with heavy wear of the bearings. The lateral backlash in the teeth of the main drive gears, which increases due to wear of the teeth, is not reduced by adjustment, since this leads to a disruption in the meshing of the teeth. As a result, noise will increase or tooth breakage may occur. Backlash in tapered bearings is eliminated without disturbing the mutual position of the driven and driving gears. Below is the order of the various adjustments.

Adjusting the drive pinion bearing tightening... When the axial play of the gears exceeds 0.03 mm, the bearings are tightened by reducing the thickness of the adjusting ring installed between the inner rings of the tapered bearings. The axial play is measured using an indicator device (Fig. 112), moving the drive gear from one extreme position to another. In the absence of such a device, the need to adjust the bearing tightening is determined by wiggling the flange by hand. If you feel the pinion of the pinion in tapered bearings, the bearings must be tightened.

Rice. 112. Determination of the axial play in the bearings of the drive pinion of the main drive

Adjustment procedure... Disconnect the rear end of the propeller shaft. The oil is drained from the bridge and the half-pieces are taken out. Unscrew the bolts securing the gearbox housing. Take out the gearbox. Unscrew the screw of the driven gear stop so that the end of the screw does not protrude above the end of the tide in the gearbox housing. Remove the oil intake tube.

Video (click to play).

Open and loosen the differential bearing nuts. Before loosening the nuts, note their position relative to the differential bearing caps by making marks on the caps and nuts. Remove the differential bearing caps.

Move the differential towards the driven gear and remove it. Unscrew the coupling mounting bolts. Take out the clutch. It is checked, without disassembling the couplings, whether the thickness of the adjusting ring installed between the bearings is sufficient. For this, the coupling flange is clamped in a vice, and the propeller shaft flange fastening nut is unpinned and tightened to failure a. If the thickness of the adjusting ring is greater than the required, then tightening the nut will not lead to noticeable resistance when the drive gear rotates in the bearings. In this case, further adjustment is reduced to regrinding the bearing adjusting ring.

Unscrew the nut of the propeller shaft flange, remove the flange, the oil seal cover, the oil separator ring and the inner ring with the outer bearing rollers.

Reduce the thickness of the adjusting ring by grinding until the axial play of the drive gear is eliminated and the preload of the bearings is ensured (the decrease in the thickness of the ring should be equal to the sum of the axial play of the gear measured by the indicator and the value of 0.05 mm of the preload of the bearings).

Assemble the coupling in the reverse order of disassembly and tighten the nut to failure. When tightening the nuts, turn the flange so that the bearing rollers take the correct position in the cages. The nut is tightened with a torque of 280 - 400 N • m, and one of its slots must coincide with the hole for the cotter pin.You cannot even turn it back a little to match the hole for the cotter pin with the slot in the nut. If the tightening is insufficient, the inner ring of the bearing can rotate, wear of the adjusting ring and, as a result, a dangerous increase in the axial play of the drive gear.

Check the tightness of the bearings. The bearing preload is adjusted so that the torque of resistance to rotation of the drive gear with the oil seal is in the range of 140 - 300 Nm. The tightness of the bearings is checked using a dynamometer (Fig. 113). For this, the clutch is clamped in a vice. A dynamometer is hooked onto the flange hole and the gear is smoothly turned. The readings on the scale of the dynamometer should be in the range of 29 - 51 N. When the resistance to rotation of the bearings is within the normal range, notice the position of the nut relative to the end of the shank, making marks on the end of the shaft and nut, and cotter pin.

Rice. 113. Checking the tightness of the bearings of the drive gear

Reinstall the clutch and tighten the bolts evenly.

Put the gearbox in place. Tighten the stop screw until it stops, then unscrew it by 1/6 of a turn and lock it with a nut.

Install the oil intake tube, axle shafts. Connect the flanges of the propeller shaft and the drive gear. Pour oil into the bridge.

To adjust the gearbox of a Gas 53 vehicle (rear axle) with your own hands, it will take some effort and a little time. In this video, the author will walk you through the setup process step by step.

The rear axle gearbox for a homemade tractor had the differentials pulled out and the bearings redesigned. The blocking did not work before due to the strong wear of the parts, and they had to be changed. After replacement, the differential should work. After checking its correct operation, the structure is assembled further.

A special gear is installed on the differential and tightened with bolts. Take care not to skew the gear.

The repaired rear axle gearbox is installed on a homemade tractor. Before installation, it is necessary to adjust and remove all the resulting backlashes. The lubrication system is assembled and installed on the gearbox. After installing the gearbox, the axle shafts are installed on the system.

The rear bridge housing GAZ-53 has the form of a stamped-welded mechanism with a rectangular cross-section. Its middle section at the back holds a stamped-type welded cap, and a reinforcement at the front. The spring cushions are coupled with longitudinal seams by welding to the crankcase with a pair of I, and the wheel journals - to the end of the sleeves. In turn, there are flanges on the trunnions, which serve as a kind of attachment for the brake shields. In addition, the stuffing box bushing is placed on the trunnion by means of a press.

The gearbox in this system is characterized by a special value.

Before you repair the gearbox, you need to dismantle the rear axle. Prepare for the process and unscrew the oil drain plug.

Then stick to the following guidelines:

Unscrew the nuts securing the axle shafts. After that, the axle shafts are ready to be recovered with the help of demolition boards. Remember to remove the axle shaft flange gasket.
Unscrew the locknut securing the outer bearing of the hub and remove the lock washer. Unscrew the nut holding the hub bearings in parallel. Then dismantle the brake drum together with the hub.
Press out the outer and remove the inner bearing ring of the outer hub bearing. Here you need a puller by installing a gripper in it. Everything is simple: the gripper legs are brought to the end of the ring and spread apart until screwing the bolt into the axle reaches the stop.
Remove the bearing ring by turning the screw. Remove the oil seal, thrust washer and inner bearing ring of the inboard hub. The method of removing the outer ring of the inner bearing is carried out similarly to the previous one.
Unscrew and unscrew the nuts, then remove the bolts holding the brakes to the axle housing flange.Then simply remove the entire brake and slinger. Then the bolts fastening the gearbox to the rear axle housing are unscrewed. The axle gearbox is removed with the removal bolts. Remember to remove the gasket and unscrew the breather.

After the previous manipulations, the gearbox itself is disassembled by observing the following steps:

The plug from the throat of the gearbox housing and the plug of the oil tube are unscrewed. Then the bolt is unscrewed by removing the retaining type plate. Do not forget about removing the tube, springs and plate from the oil channel.
The adjusting screw of the driven gear stop, which is responsible for the adjustment, can be dismantled and untwisted. Do not forget about removing the adjusting sleeve and the snap ring.

The bolts connecting the lock plates and the bearing caps of the differential of the rear axle gearbox are unscrewed. Then the locking plates are removed. The adjusting nuts are also loosened and the bearing caps removed. It is very important not to forget to apply marks before working with these components in order to mount them in their previous position in the subsequent assembly.
The outer rings of the rear axle differential bearings and their nuts, which are responsible for adjusting, are removed.
The differential of the rear axle reducer Gas-53 is removed from the crankcase entirely. The bolts connecting the drive pinion bearing couplings are unscrewed. The drive gear is also pressed out of the gearbox housing as a whole. At the very end, the gaskets responsible for the adjustment are removed from the crankcase throat.

Please note: before the stage of removing the covers, focus on the marks applied to the outer surfaces of the covers and the side surfaces of the GAZ-53 gearbox housing. They are represented by the same numerical values, the functional task of which is to avoid dismantling of parts.

Factory adjustment is provided for the bearings of the rear axle GAZ-53, side clearance and contact in the meshing of the gears. After use, these components do not require adjustment. Exceptions are the prerequisites for going over the bridge and replacing any parts or heavy wear of the bearings. It should be remembered that the lateral clearance of the teeth of the gears of the GAZ-53 rear axle reducer, which increases due to wear of the teeth themselves, cannot be adjusted. This manipulation can lead to irreversible deviations of the tooth engagement.

As a result, this will result in increased noise or tooth breakage. The play of tapered bearings lends itself to elimination, which has no prerequisites for a violation of the mutual position of the driven and driving gears.

After the gearbox is adjusted and repaired, proceed to its reassembly.

The course of manipulations is presented in the form of the reverse execution of the stages of disassembling the unit, however, it is characterized by the following features:

The gaskets responsible for the adjustment are installed on the end face of the gearbox housing with a total thickness of 1.5 mm.
The cover and the coupling are bolted to a torque of 9-11 daN · m (9-11 kgf · m).
At the stage of installing the differential and the outer ring of the differential bearings on the crankcase, it is necessary to observe the completeness of the assembled gear wheels of the main pair.
The installation and fastening of the differential bearing cover with bolts implies a torque of 20-23 daNm (20-23 kgfm). Do not forget to compare the numbers of the covers to match the numbers of the side surfaces of the crankcase.
At the stage of screwing in the threads of the crankcase and covers with the differential bearing adjusting nuts, use the 5-U-27286 wrench.
Differential bearing preload, side play and gear engagement are adjustable.
Maintain the clearance between the stop and the driven gear of the screw by screwing in until it stops. After that, you will need to unscrew it 1/6 of a turn and lock it with a nut.
The forward and reverse gearbox is run-in.

The gearbox is ready for installation in the rear axle housing of the GAZ-53, which is assembled as follows:

There are certain signs by which it can be determined that the rear axle needs adjustment, repair or replacement. The most noticeable and commonplace sign is that the car does not move, and its rear wheels do not spin. This can happen if the bridge has been running for some time without any lubrication at all. But this happens quite rarely - not all drivers bring their car to such a deplorable state. Also, the car will not drive if the axle shaft bursts.

The sign of a faulty bridge is:

When gaining speed with a load, howl in the area of the rear axle. It happens that an extraneous sound occurs when the revs are dropped at a certain speed limit. The reason may be improperly adjusted clearance in the main pair, wear of the gear teeth in it.

Rear axle from GAZ 53 disassembled

Rear noise can occur not only due to a faulty final drive, hub bearings often make noise. But the nature of the sound here is somewhat different - it is constantly present at any speed, and if there is a howl, then at a lower frequency. It is not difficult to check the humming bearing - you need to lift any rear wheel on a jack and twist it by hand. Bearing noise will be heard when rolling.

Breakdowns can be different, there are different reasons for them:

Harsh operating conditions;
Poor quality of transmission oil or its non-compliance with technical standards;
Poor quality of spare parts;
Untimely maintenance.

From an insufficient amount of oil or its poor quality, the main gears and tapered bearings in the rear axle gearbox primarily suffer. The satellites in the differential also do well - the teeth lose their mirror surface, sometimes partially crumble.

The gears of the main drive must be changed in pairs - at the factory they "roll" to each other. If you change only the drive or driven gear, then it will not work well to adjust the gap, and the bridge will still howl.

GAZ 53 rear axle clearance adjustment

If the bridge suddenly hums, the first step is to check the condition and oil level. If water gets into the oil, then the bridge can also make noise on the emulsion, especially the hum will be noticeable at speeds above 60 km / h. It is often advised to add sawdust to a noisy bridge, as if this method allows you to eliminate the hum. But this method is questionable - it is unlikely that the worn out teeth of the main gear will recover from this.

The front axle on the GAZ 53 truck is a massive beam, which is the supporting base for the entire front suspension. I-beam, its ends have lugs for installing pivot pins using a pivot connection. The pivots (steering knuckles), in turn, are connected to the steering rods, through which the wheels are turned. Bronze or brass bushings are pressed into the seats (eyes) for the pivots. On the steering knuckles, the front wheel hubs are mounted on the bearings, and the bearings are filled with a thick "lithol" -type grease.With the beam itself, only one trouble can happen - the seats for the pivot bushings will develop. It is not easy to bend or break such a massive element. But first of all, the pivots and the bushings themselves wear out.Front axle drawing for GAZ 53A knock on the front wheels may be a sign of a front axle malfunction. Knocking occurs due to increased play in the pivot connections.Determining the defect is not difficult - you need to hang one front wheel on a jack and shake it up and down. It is considered that if the backlash is more than 1.6 mm, the pins and bushings must be replaced. But how these millimeters are measured is not very clear. It's just that with a noticeable gap, it's time to repair the front axle. On the front axle, hub bearings may make noise. The defect of the front bearing is checked in the same way as on the rear axle - the wheel is hung and scrolled.Checking the bearing of the front axle GAZ 53It is more convenient to change the pivots in the pit in the garage, but you can also do the work in the field. The main thing is that the car is installed on a flat surface. For disassembly, the following operations must be performed:

Loosen the nuts on the front wheels;

Hang out the front of the car by removing the wheels and placing reliable stops under the frame;

Dismantle the front wheel hubs complete with brake drums and bearings;

Disconnect the brake support discs and hang them on the pipes, taking them to the side;

Disconnect the steering rods from the pivots;

Unscrew the bolts securing the pivot caps (upper and lower) and remove the covers;

Release all fasteners and knock out the locking wedges holding the pivots (one wedge per side);

Using a mandrel, drive the pins down;

Image - Do-it-yourself gas 53 rear axle gearbox repair

Remove pivot pins, rubber seals and pivot thrust bearings.

The removed steering knuckles must be clamped in a vice and the bushings must be knocked out of the seats with a mandrel. New bushings are pressed in, and using a reamer with a diameter of 30 mm, both seats for the pivots are turned at the same time. Therefore, the sweep must be long.It is important not to overshoot the size - the king pin should fit into the bushings very tightly. It should be borne in mind that soft metal will quickly settle, and with free entry at the assembly stage, a backlash may appear almost immediately in the future. When installing the bushings, check the alignment of the king pin lubrication holes. Everything is put together in the reverse order.

Often the pivots in the seats boil, especially in cases when the bridge was forgotten to be serviced and was not injected.

In such cases, the connection is heated with a gas burner, and you will definitely have to stock up on a good sledgehammer. It is important to move the kingpin from its place, and then it should already be knocked out easier.

A special kit is sold to replace the pins in car dealerships. The standard set includes:

King pins - 2 pcs.;
Bronze bushings - 4 pcs.;
Plugs - 4 pcs.;
Locking pins (wedges) - 2 pcs.;
Thrust bearings - 2 pcs.;
O-rings - 4 pcs.;
Fasteners (bolts, washers, nuts);
Protective cap 3307-3001017 (boot) - 2 pcs.;
Grease nipple for filling - 4 pcs.

A factory set costs around 900 to 120 rubles.

Front axle maintenance consists of:

In the lubrication of pivot joints and wheel bearings;

Checking the play in the hub bearings;

Diagnostics of steering rods, hubs, pivots.

It is recommended to inject the front axle of a GAZ 53 vehicle approximately every 10 thousand km.It looks like the front axle from the GAZ 53 truckRear axle bearings, side clearance and contact in the meshing of the gears do not require adjustment in operation. Their adjustment is necessary only when replacing any parts or when the bearings are heavily worn. It is unacceptable to reduce the increased lateral clearance between the teeth of the main drive gears, resulting from wear of the teeth, by adjusting, since in this case the position of the gears in which they were worn in will be violated. As a result, noise will increase or tooth breakage will occur. Eliminate play in tapered bearings without disturbing the position of driven and driving gears that have run in to each other.Adjusting the drive pinion shaft bearings tightening. If the axial play of the pinion shaft exceeds 0.03 mm, tighten the bearings by removing the spacers installed between the spacer ring and the inner ring of the rear roller bearing. Check the axial play with an indicator device by moving the pinion shaft from one extreme position to another. If no device is available, check by swinging the flange by hand. If you feel the axial play of the pinion shaft in tapered bearings, be sure to tighten the bearings.
The adjustment procedure is as follows:At the end of the adjustment, the nut is tightened to failure, and one of its slots must coincide with the hole for the cotter pin. You cannot even turn it back a little to match the hole for the cotter pin with the slot in the nut. If the tightening is insufficient, the inner ring of the bearing may turn, wear of the shims and, as a result, a dangerous increase in the axial play of the drive gear shaft.

Check bearings for tightness. The preload in the bearings must be adjusted so that the moment of resistance to the rotation of the drive gear shaft is within the range of 6-14 kgcm (without the oil seal).

The bearings are checked using a steelyard (fig. 71). To do this, the clutch is clamped in a vice, the steelyard is hooked into the hole of the flange with a hook, and the gear shaft is smoothly turned. The reading on the steelyard scale should be in the range of 1.25 - 2.9 kg (which corresponds to a torque of 6 - 14 kgcm). In this case, the initial force that is required to drive the clutch in rotation is not taken into account. If the resistance of the bearings to rotation is within normal limits, then the position of the nut relative to the shank should be noted by making marks on the end of the shaft and the nut. Then unscrew the nut,
put in place the gland with the cover and tighten the nut to the position marked with a punch and cotter pin.Rice. 71. Checking the drive pinion shaft bearings for tightness

Replace the coupling, while centering the stamped stuffing box cover assembly on the neck of the flange to ensure normal operation of the stuffing box. In this position, tighten the cover bolts evenly. If no other adjustments are required, then assemble the main gear. In this case, tighten the nuts of the differential bearings to the position marked with the marks. (A stamped cover is installed on some of the cars instead of a cast one)

Put the main gear in place and connect the flanges of the universal joint yoke and the pinion shaft.

Adjustment of the lateral clearance differential bearings tightening and contact in the meshing of the final drive gears. Differential bearings and the gearing of the main gears are adjusted with adjusting nuts as follows.

Engage the drive and driven gears with a slight lateral clearance.

Tighten the adjusting nuts until they come into contact with the outer rings of the differential bearings.

Tighten the bearing nuts alternately until a certain gap appears between the teeth of the driven and drive gears and some preliminary tightening of the bearings. When tightening the bearings, turn the driven gear a few turns in both directions so that the bearing rollers are in the correct position.

Loosen the bearing adjusting nuts so that they move away from the outer rings and then tighten them until they come into contact with the rings.

Adjust the differential axial clearance to zero without first tightening the differential bearings.
With zero clearance and zero bearing preload, tighten each bearing adjusting nut one notch to pre-tighten the bearings.

Install the indicator to check the side play of the gear teeth, as shown in Fig. 72. Check the gap at four evenly spaced points.

Fig. 72. Checking the side play of the teeth

To increase the lateral clearance, loosen the adjusting nut on the side of the driven gear and tighten the nut on the side of the drive gear shaft by the same number of notches to maintain the pre-tightening of the bearings. To reduce the side clearance, these operations are performed in the reverse order.
Finish the rotation of the adjusting nuts by tightening them.
For example, if the nut needs to be released by one notch, then release it by two, and then tighten it by one notch. This ensures that the nut comes into contact with the outer ring of the bearing and does not move the ring during operation.
The gap between the teeth should be 0.15 - 0.3 mm for different bridges, but it should not change by more than 0.1 mm in one bridge.

Checking the engagement with paint. After final assembly and adjustment, the gear meshing should be checked. For this purpose paint the teeth with a paint of the required viscosity. Very thin paint spreads and stains the surface of the teeth, too thick is not squeezed out of the gaps between the teeth.

Slow down the pinion shaft and rotate the driven pinion in both directions until a clear contact patch is visible.

Obtaining the correct contact patch of the teeth completes the check of the installation of the gears and the lateral clearance in the engagement. The side clearance should be within the above limits. In fig. 73 shows typical contact spots on the teeth of the driven gear of the main drive of the rear axle.Fig. 73. Contact spot of final drive gearsIf, during the adjustment process, it becomes necessary to move the drive gear shaft, this can be achieved by changing the thickness of the shims installed between the coupling flange of the drive gear shaft bearings and the end of the throat of the reducer housing.
When the side clearance changes, the location of the contact patch changes.
To reduce the lateral clearance, the driven gear is moved to the driving gear. In this case, the contact patch on the working (convex) side of the tooth moves slightly below and closer to the narrow end of the tooth.To increase the lateral clearance, the driven gear is retracted from the driving gear. In this case:

on the working side of the tooth, the contact patch moves slightly higher and closer to the wide end of the tooth;

on the non-working side of the tooth, the contact patch moves slightly higher and closer to the wide end.

When moving the drive gear to the driven gear:

the contact patch on the working side moves lower and closer to the narrow end of the tooth;

the contact patch on the non-working side moves lower and closer to the wide end of the tooth.

When moving the drive gear away from the driven gear:

the contact patch on the working side of the tooth moves to the apex of the tooth and to its wide end;

on the non-working side of the tooth, the contact patch moves towards the apex of the tooth and moves slightly towards its narrow end.

The rear axle reducer consists of several units, mainly the main gear and differential. The final drive is a mechanism by which the gear ratio of the vehicle's transmission is increased. What it is, what it affects and how the maintenance of the reduced gearbox is carried out, we will consider in this article.Let's take a closer look at the gearbox device, which consists of two parts that we have already mentioned. The main gears are classified into single and double, which have one and two gear pairs to transmit engine torque to the wheels, respectively. Double main gears are central (simple design, greater gear ratio, but a large load on the system elements) and spaced (more complex in design, but more efficient, more compact, allows the car to have a higher ground clearance). Single main gears are:

cylindrical (gears in one plane, maximum efficiency, gear ratio 3.5-4.2);

bevel (gears are perpendicular to each other, which makes the design take up a lot of space, high efficiency);

worm (compact, quieter, but low efficiency, heavy to manufacture);

hypoid (lighter in weight, smaller in size and more reliably transmit engine forces to the bridge, but the efficiency is the most average of the given types of transmissions).

A differential is a mechanism that distributes torque between the drive wheels and the drive axles. The differential assists in slipping and slipping by using different wheel speeds.The gearbox can fail primarily due to bearings made of bronze, they are located in stockings that are attached to the gearbox itself. If such a bearing breaks down, the stockings are damaged and they begin to bend the shafts. As a result of this bending, the main gear can be skewed. If it is skewed, fractures in the gear teeth or chips can appear on it, and subsequently the gearbox itself can jam, and if the shaft flies out of its place, it threatens to break the gearbox housing.The cause of the breakdown will also be the oil not poured into the rear axle gearbox in time, to be more precise, its absence or its untimely renewal. The transmission oil is usually changed every 35 thousand kilometers. Image - Do-it-yourself gas 53 rear axle gearbox repair

It is very easy to notice a gearbox malfunction, when cornering, a sharp deceleration or, on the contrary, acceleration, noise periodically occurs in the area of the rear axle... Do-it-yourself repair of the rear axle gearbox is not so difficult. Let's consider it on the example of a classic VAZ car. The first step is to drain the transmission oil from the rear axle gearbox. While the oil is draining from the housing, we disconnect the propeller shaft.

The next step is to dismantle the axle shafts and for this, first of all, we remove the rear wheels and brake drums. Then we unscrew the bolts securing the gearbox with the bridge. When installing a new gearbox, we use a sealant and do not forget about a cardboard gasket.Fill the gearbox with oil. The gearbox flange must fit snugly in place, as well as the bearings.

The arrangement of the rear axle gearbox itself is not so complicated, and, mainly, a hypoid look is found on rear-wheel drive cars. The whole difficulty lies in the fact that when removing the brake drums, there may be a problem with rust, and in some places the metal can press very hard. But brute masculine power and a few tools will easily solve this problem.

If you are purchasing a new gearbox yourself, you should pay attention when buying that the same models can cost completely differently. This difference lies in only two letters OP (general bulkhead). This means that a factory check revealed a defect, and then the mechanism went to the bulkhead and is now in perfect order, but is sold at a reduced price. Image - Do-it-yourself gas 53 rear axle gearbox repair

The rear axle gearbox is adjusted in cases where it began to bother you with a characteristic hum, which is heard already at a speed of 30 kilometers per hour (at KamAZ up to 80 kilometers per hour). The very reason may appear due to large constant overloads of the car or with constant driving with trailers, or maybe ordinary mechanical damage. Therefore, your next reaction will be a visual check of the unit.

Oil seals and flanges, bearings, satellites (a star-shaped element in the differential) and their axles - all this is removed and inspected, in case of wear it changes. You can ask how all these parts should look in the car manual, if you have not had to hold them in your hands before. For VAZ, the replacement will be inexpensive, if you took up a foreign car, then first, look around the current price lists.

Now that all the parts have been checked individually and are considered to be in good working order, we begin to assemble the gearbox. The drive gear will go first, to it - an adjusting washer, a spacer sleeve with bearings, a flange. Now you need to tighten the nut with a certain effort, for this you can use a special key with a built-in dynamometer, if there is none, you will have to constantly use a measuring lever with a steelyard. Those. every millimeter of the lever travel will have to be accompanied by measuring the pressure on it using a steelyard, it is troublesome, but caution and accuracy are needed here. The nut must be tightened 1 Newton... In this case, the flange must be fixed, it is fixed with a specialized wrench with spacers, just suitable for the grooves of this flange.

Now we put the driven gear in its rightful place, i.e. into the differential housing and tighten the bolts. Now the direct adjustment of the backlash begins. After everything is installed, the nuts are tightened to the minimum stop, and the driven gear turns. After that, we look to see if it has a slight backlash, for this we swing it from side to side. The backlash should be, but small! This is a kind of reserve for heating the gearbox while driving, so that nothing bursts.

Video (click to play).

Now for the final stage. We check the distance between the bolts that hold the nuts we recently tightened. Use a vernier caliper, we need accurate numbers. Having measured the distance, we approach from the other side of the plane and now tighten the nuts, preferably by the same amount, for example, by 1 groove. We measure again the distance between the bolts, it should have changed by a small amount of about 1.5-2 mm. If so, it remains to check the gear for play, it is important that it remains the same as we just configured it. This completes the adjustment.