Do-it-yourself repair of the rear axle gearbox vaz 21213

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of the rear axle gearbox vaz 21213 from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

VAZ-21213 (Niva). Assembling the rear axle gearbox

Rear axle gear parts

Reliable operation of the gearbox is ensured by strict adherence to the following assembly and adjustment procedures.

1. Lubricate with gear oil and install through the windows into the differential box the gears of the axle shafts with support washers and satellites.
2. Rotate the satellites and gears of the axle shafts so as to align the axis of rotation with the axis of the hole in the box, then insert the axis of the satellites.
3. Check the axial clearance of each axle gear: it should be 0–0.10 mm, and the moment of resistance to rotation of the differential gears should not exceed 14.7 N m (1.5 kgf m).
4. If the gap is increased, which is a sign of wear of the differential parts, replace the support washers of the axle gears with others of greater thickness.
5. If the specified clearance cannot be obtained even with the thickest washer installed, replace the gears with new ones due to excessive wear.
6. Attach the driven gear to the differential box.
7. Using mandrel A.70152, press the inner races of roller bearings onto the differential box.

VAZ-21213 (Niva). Installing and adjusting the drive gear

Rear axle gear parts

Determining the thickness of the drive gear adjusting ring

3 - rear bearing of the drive gear;

1. The correct position of the drive gear relative to the driven gear is ensured by selecting the thickness of the adjusting ring installed between the end face of the drive gear and the inner ring of the rear bearing.
2. Select the adjusting ring using the mandrel A.70184 and tool A.95690 with indicator. Perform operations in the following order.

Video (click to play).

4. On the mandrel A.70184 (4), imitating the drive gear, use the mandrel A.70152 to install the inner ring of the rear bearing and insert the mandrel into the neck of the gearbox housing (see Fig. Determining the thickness of the adjusting ring of the drive gear).
5. Install the inner ring of the front bearing, the drive gear flange and, turning the mandrel for the correct installation of the bearing rollers, tighten the nut to a torque of 7.85–9.8 N m (0.8–1 kgf m).
6. Fix fixture A.95690 on the end of mandrel 4 and set the indicator, which has divisions of 0.01 mm, to the zero position by placing its leg on the same end of mandrel A.70184.
7. Then move the indicator so that its leg is on the seating surface of the differential box bearing.
8. Turning the mandrel 4 with the indicator left and right, set it to a position in which the indicator arrow marks the minimum value "a1" (see Fig. Scheme for taking measurements to determine the thickness of the adjusting ring of the drive gear) and write it down.
9. Repeat this operation on the seat of the second bearing and determine the value "a2".
10. Determine the thickness "S" of the drive gear adjusting ring, which is the algebraic difference between the values "a" and "b".

- a - arithmetic mean distance from the end of the mandrel to the necks of the differential bearings;
– a = (a1 + a2) : 2;
- b - deviation of the drive gear from the nominal position, translated in mm.

The deviation value is marked on the drive gear (see Fig. Gears of the main gear) in hundredths of a millimeter with a plus or minus sign.
11. When determining the thickness of the adjusting ring, consider the sign of the value "b" and its units.

Let us assume that the value "a" set using the indicator is 2.91 mm (the value "a" is always positive), and the deviation "-14" is set on the drive gear after the serial number. To get the value of "b" in millimeters, you need to multiply the indicated value by 0.01 mm:

b = -14 0.01 = -0.14 mm.
Determine the thickness of the adjusting ring for the drive gear in millimeters:

S \u003d a - b \u003d 2.91 - (-0.14) \u003d 2.91 + 0.14 \u003d 3.05 mm.
In this case, install a 3.05 mm thick adjusting ring.

When repairing the rear axle gearbox, a new spacer must be installed if the gearbox housing, final drive gears or drive gear bearings have been replaced. If the specified parts remain the same, the spacer sleeve can still be used.

13. Insert the drive gear into the gear housing and install the front bearing inner race, oil slinger, oil seal, drive gear flange and washer onto it.
14. Screw a nut on the end of a gear wheel and, having locked a flange of a leading gear wheel, tighten it (about the moment of a tightening see subsection 3.5.7.7).

3.5.7.7. Pinion bearing adjustment

Adjusting the Niva front axle is one of the key operations that ensures comfortable and trouble-free movement on roads of any quality.

The need to adjust the elements of the front axle is assessed by the presence of noise and vibrations that occur in various modes of operation of the VAZ 21214. So, conventionally, acoustic signs can be divided into two groups:
• Registered permanently;
• Fixed when braking with the help of the internal combustion engine or acceleration.

The sounds may sound like:
• Howl (wear of the main pair);
• Crunch, "trolleybus" rumble (destruction or constriction of the shank bearings, unscrewed drive shaft nut, semi-axle bearings, incorrect adjustment of gears of the GP reducer);
• Intermittent "shuffling" (diff bearing).
The complexity of diagnosis in this case lies in the abundance of extraneous noise emitted by other components of the car.

To carry out adjustment work on the front axle, the manufacturer provides special pullers, mandrels and fixtures. However, due to the limited distribution and high cost, their presence is not necessary, although it is desirable for saving time and tuning accuracy.
Since the main parts of the RPM correspond to similar elements of the REM, there is a correspondence between technological gaps and the procedure for carrying out repair operations.

The main stage is preceded by preparation, including:
1. Draining oil from the RPM through the drain hole;

2. Disconnecting the cardan shaft with a key of 13

3. Removing the right wheel drive.

4. Dismantling the lower ball joint on the left side.

5. Removing stretch marks suspension.

6. Removing the gearbox from the brackets on the right and left, using the stop.

This is followed by disassembly of the gearbox, thorough cleaning of surfaces from dirt and grease, troubleshooting of components.

For the operation, the original fixture A.95690, mandrel A.70184 or an equivalent made according to the drawing is used.

The mating plane of the crankcase is located in such a way that it assumes a horizontal position. Then an absolutely even metal bar is installed on the bearing bed. The distance from the bar to the mandrel is measured by inserting adjusting rings from the set into the gap under the bar in increments of 0.05. The measured value (crankcase base) is consistent with the correction stamped on the drive gear.
When assembling the assembly, it is recommended that the standard spacer be omitted to prevent re-repair. Instead, a non-deformable steel sleeve 48 mm long is suitable (with a margin, shorten if necessary).

During turning, the parts control the force when turning the gear (should be 157–196 N cm), for bearings with mileage, a moment of 39.2–58.8 N cm is valid.The use of branded dynamometer 02.7812.9501 is optional.

Acceptable accuracy will provide household steelyard. While working with it, one end of the cord 1 m long should be wound around the flange, and the other should be fixed to the scales. By pulling the device in a perpendicular direction, fix the turning moment. So, new bearings should provide 7-9 kg, and with mileage - 2-3 kg.

The process involves replacing the support washers with new ones that are thicker than before. There are 7 sizes to choose from in increments of 0.05 mm within 1.8-2.1 mm. The material of washers is bronze or steel. In this case, the gears are installed tightly, but with the possibility of turning manually.

In accordance with the instructions, the side clearance and preload of the bearings are adjusted using tool A.95688/R.

In its absence, a caliper of a suitable size will perform the specified role.

To ensure the required preload, fix the distance relative to the bearing caps at the beginning of the tightening and at the end. The required difference between the values is 0.2 mm.

The side clearance is adjusted by bringing the driven gear to the leading one until it disappears. Initially, one of the nuts is in a free position, the other (working) is tightened. After eliminating the gap, gradually tighten the baited nut until the jaws of the caliper move apart by 0.1 mm.
The backlash adjustment stops when there is a slight knock of the teeth. Further, both nuts are evenly tightened to a distance of 0.2 mm. The correctness of the work performed is evidenced by a uniform backlash in any position of the gears.

Adjusting the Niva front axle is one of the key operations that ensures comfortable and trouble-free movement on roads of any quality.

The need to adjust the elements of the front axle is assessed by the presence of noise and vibrations that occur in various modes of operation of the VAZ 21214. Thus, conditionally acoustic signs can be divided into two groups: • Permanently recorded;

• Fixed when braking with the help of the internal combustion engine or acceleration.

The nature of the sounds may resemble: • Howling (wear and tear of the main pair); • Crunch, "trolleybus" rumble (destruction or constriction of the shank bearings, unscrewed drive shaft nut, semi-axle bearings, incorrect adjustment of gears of the GP reducer); • Intermittent "shuffling" (diff bearing).

The complexity of diagnosis in this case lies in the abundance of extraneous noise emitted by other components of the car.

To carry out adjustment work on the front axle, the manufacturer provides special pullers, mandrels and fixtures. However, due to the limited distribution and high cost, their presence is not necessary, although it is desirable for saving time and tuning accuracy. Since the main parts of the RPM correspond to similar elements of the REM, there is a correspondence between technological gaps and the procedure for carrying out repair operations.

The main stage is preceded by preparation, which includes: 1. Draining oil from the RPM through the drain hole;

With this they read We put the stretcher on the field, detailed instructions

2. Disconnecting the cardan shaft with a key of 13

3. Removing the right wheel drive.

4. Dismantling the lower ball joint on the left side.

5. Removing stretch marks suspension.

6. Removing the gearbox from the brackets on the right and left, using the stop.

This is followed by disassembly of the gearbox, thorough cleaning of surfaces from dirt and grease, troubleshooting of components.

For the operation, the original fixture A.95690, mandrel A.70184 or an equivalent made according to the drawing is used.

The mating plane of the crankcase is located in such a way that it assumes a horizontal position. Then an absolutely even metal bar is installed on the bearing bed.The distance from the bar to the mandrel is measured by inserting adjusting rings from the set into the gap under the bar in increments of 0.05. The measured value (crankcase base) is consistent with the correction stamped on the drive gear. When assembling the assembly, it is recommended that the standard spacer be omitted to prevent re-repair. Instead, a non-deformable steel sleeve 48 mm long is suitable (with a margin, shorten if necessary).

During turning, the parts control the force when turning the gear (should be 157–196 N cm), for bearings with mileage, a moment of 39.2–58.8 N cm is valid. The use of branded dynamometer 02.7812.9501 is optional.

With this read Repair and adjustment of the gearbox front and rear axles

In accordance with the instructions, the side clearance and preload of the bearings are adjusted using tool A.95688/R.

In its absence, a caliper of a suitable size will perform the specified role.

To ensure the required preload, fix the distance relative to the bearing caps at the beginning of the tightening and at the end. The required difference between the values is 0.2 mm.

The side clearance is adjusted by bringing the driven gear to the leading one until it disappears. Initially, one of the nuts is in a free position, the other (working) is tightened. After eliminating the gap, gradually tighten the baited nut until the jaws of the caliper move apart by 0.1 mm. The backlash adjustment stops when there is a slight knock of the teeth. Further, both nuts are evenly tightened to a distance of 0.2 mm. The correctness of the work performed is evidenced by a uniform backlash in any position of the gears.

The rear axle bearings, side clearance and the position of the contact patch in the engagement of the main pair are adjusted at the factory, and, as a rule, they do not require adjustment during operation. Their adjustment is necessary only after the bridge has been rebuilt and parts have been replaced, as well as when the bearings are heavily worn. The side clearance in the gearing of the main gear, which has increased due to tooth wear, is not reduced by adjustment, as this leads to a disruption in the gearing and, as a result, to increased rear axle noise or tooth breakage. Backlash in tapered bearings is eliminated without disturbing the relative position of the driven and driving gears.Pinion bearing preload adjustmentThe need to adjust the bearings can be determined by the presence of axial play of the drive gear. Axial play is measured with the cardan shaft disconnected using an indicator with a division value of not more than 0.01 mm when the flange is moved in the axial direction. In this case, the indicator leg should rest against the end of the flange parallel to the axis of the drive gear.Rice. 5.32. Rear axle with a banjo-type beam with a separate gearbox (middle part): 1 - nut; 2 - drive gear flange; 3 - cuff; 4, 6, 11 - bearings; 5 - ring; 7 - adjusting ring; 8 - gearbox housing; 9 - drive gear; 10 - differential; 12 - axle shaft; 13 - gasket; 14 - locking plate; 15 - crankcase; 16 - differential bearing nut; 17 - differential bearing cover; 18 - oil filler plug; 19 - driven gear; 20 - breather

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The adjustment must be made as follows:— unpin and unscrew nut 1, remove flange 2, stuffing box 3 and inner ring of bearing 4;– replace the adjusting ring 5 with a new one, the thickness of which should be less than the one to be replaced by the value of the axial play plus an additional 0.05 mm for a vehicle run of less than 1000 km or 0.01 mm for a vehicle run of more than 10,000 km;- put in place the inner ring of the bearing, a new oil seal, flange and tighten the nut to a torque of 160-200 N m (16-20 kgf m), then check the ease of rotation of the drive gear. If more force is required to rotate the drive gear than it was before the adjustment, then it is necessary to replace the adjusting ring, increasing its thickness by 0.01-0.02 mm.After adjusting the bearing preload, it is necessary to tighten the nut to a torque of 160–200 N m (16–20 kgf m) until the slot in the nut coincides with the hole for the cotter pin. The nut must only be tightened to match the hole for the cotter pin with the slot of the nut, otherwise, due to insufficient tightening, the inner ring of the outer bearing may turn, wear the adjusting ring and, as a result, increase the axial play of the bearings. When tightening the flange nut, it is necessary to rotate the drive gear to properly install the rollers in the bearings.After adjustment, it is necessary to check the heating of the bearings after driving the car at a speed of 60-70 km / h for 20-30 minutes. In this case, the heating of the crankcase neck should not exceed 95 ° C (water that has fallen on the neck should not boil). In case of excessive heating, the preload must be reduced.Adjust the preload when replacing the bearings of the drive gear and final drive gear in the following order:- it is necessary to adjust the position of the drive gear by selecting the adjusting ring 7 (see Fig. 5.32), ensuring the size (109.5 ± 0.02) mm - the distance between the common axis of the side gears and the end face of the drive gear adjacent to the adjusting ring 7;– By selecting the adjusting ring 5, adjust the preload of the drive gear bearings. With proper adjustment, the moment of resistance to rotation of the drive gear should be in the range of 150–200 N m (15–10 kgf cm) for new bearings or 70–100 N m (7–10 kgf cm) for used bearings. If the moment of resistance to rotation of the bearings is within the normal range, it is necessary to cotter the nut, otherwise the adjustment should be repeated. In this case, if the moment of resistance to rotation turned out to be less than required, it is necessary to reduce the thickness of the adjusting ring, and if more, it is necessary to select a ring of greater thickness.After adjusting the preload of the bearings, it is necessary to install the differential assembly in the axle and adjust the preload of the differential bearings and the backlash in the engagement of the final drive gears.Adjustment of differential bearing preload and lateral clearance in the meshing of gears and final driveAdjustment without changing bearings.To adjust bearings:- Remove the axle shafts, crankcase cover and cover gasket (for a one-piece rear axle);- remove the axle shafts and remove the gearbox from the axle housing (for the rear axle with a banjo-type beam);Rice. 5.33. Checking the axial clearance in the differential bearings (Banjo Beam Axle)We remove the gearbox to replace it, repair or replace the rear axle beam.
We hang out the rear axle.Drain the oil from the rear axle housing (see here).We disconnect the rear driveshaft from the flange of the rear axle gearbox (see here).Holding the gearbox housing, with the “12” head, unscrew the eight bolts of its fastening to the rear axle beam....and a gasket.
Install the gearbox in reverse order.
Before installing the gearbox, we clean the mating plane of the beam. Install a new seal.Before tightening the bolts for fastening the gearbox to the rear axle beam, we apply sealant to the threads of the bolts.Before removing, clean the gearbox from dirt. We install the dismantled gearbox on a workbench.Using the “10” wrench, we unscrew the bolt securing the locking plate of the adjusting nut of the right bearing of the differential box ...Similarly, remove the lock plate of the adjusting nut of the left bearing.With a center punch we mark the location of the bearing caps of the differential box on the gearbox housing.With a 17 spanner, we unscrew the two bolts securing the cover of the right bearing of the differential box ...Remove the right bearing cover.Remove adjusting nut...... and remove the outer ring of the differential box bearing.Similarly, remove the cover, remove the adjusting nut and remove the outer ring of the left bearing of the differential box.If we do not change the bearings of the differential box, then we mark their outer rings in order not to confuse them during assembly.We remove the differential box assembly with the driven gear of the final drive, inner rings, separators and bearing rollers.From the crankcase, we take out the drive gear assembly with the adjusting ring, the inner ring, the separator and the rear bearing rollers and the spacer sleeve.By striking with a hammer through a drift on the inner ring of the rear bearing of the gearbox, ...... remove the inner ring with a separator and rollers.Remove the drive gear adjusting ring.We remove the oil seal from the socket of the gearbox crankcase (see here)....and the inner ring of the front bearing with cage and rollers.With a punch, we knock out the outer ring of the front bearing of the drive gear ...Turning the crankcase over, similarly knock out the outer ring of the rear bearing of the drive gear.To disassemble the differential…. With a puller, we press the inner ring of the bearing of the differential box.In the absence of a puller, we insert a chisel between the end face of the inner ring of the bearing and the differential box.By striking the chisel, we shift the inner ring of the bearing.We insert two powerful screwdrivers (or mounting blades) into the resulting gap and press it ...… the bearing inner ring with cage and rollers.Similarly, we press the inner ring of the other bearing.Clamping the differential box in a vise with soft metal jaws, ...... with a “17” spanner, we unscrew the eight bolts securing the driven gear to the differential box.With a hammer with a plastic striker, we knock down the driven gear from the differential box ...Turning the satellites, we take them out of the differential box.We take out the side gears.Before assembly, we wash the gearbox parts in kerosene and inspect them. Check the condition of the main gear teeth. Damage to at least one tooth (chipping, scuffing of the working surface) is unacceptable. With a fine-grained sandpaper, we eliminate minor damage to the axis of the satellites, the necks of the gears of the axle shafts and their mounting holes in the differential box. In case of serious damage to parts, we replace them with new ones. If even slight damage is found to the surfaces of the bearing washers of the gears of the semiaxes, we replace the washers with new ones (with a selection of the thickness of the washers). Drive pinion and differential case bearings must be free of wear and have smooth running surfaces. Poor bearing condition causes noise and seizing gear teeth.

We press the inner rings of the bearings of the differential box with separators and rollers onto the box with a suitable piece of pipe. We fix the driven gear on the differential box.When assembling the differential, we lubricate the gears of the axle shafts with support washers and satellites with gear oil and install them in the differential box.We turn the satellites and gears of the semi-axes so as to align the axis of rotation of the satellites with the axis of the holes in the differential box, and insert the axis of the satellites. The axial clearance of each axle gear must not exceed 0.1 mm. With an increased clearance, we replace the support washers of the gears of the semiaxes with new ones - of greater thickness. The moment of resistance to rotation of the differential gears should not exceed 14.7 N.m (1.5 kgf.m) - the gears are turned by hand.We check the ease of rotation of the gears of the differential.With a tool head suitable in diameter (a piece of pipe), we press the outer ring of the front bearing into the housing of the crankcase.Press in the outer ring of the rear bearing in the same way.The correct position of the drive gear relative to the driven gear is ensured by selecting the thickness of the adjusting ring installed between the end face of the drive gear and the inner ring of the rear bearing. When replacing the main pair of the gearbox or drive gear bearings, we select the adjusting ring. To do this, we make a fixture from an old drive gear: we weld a plate 80 mm long to the gear and grind the plate to a size of 50–0.02 mm relative to the end of the gear (the plane of contact of the adjusting ring).A fixture made from an old drive gear.We grind (or process with fine sandpaper) the installation site of the rear bearing on the drive gear so that the inner ring of the bearing is installed in a sliding fit. We install the inner ring of the rear bearing with a cage and rollers on the manufactured fixture and insert the fixture into the crankcase. Then we install the inner ring of the front bearing with the cage and rollers and the drive gear flange. Turning the gear by the flange for the correct installation of the bearing rollers, tighten the flange fastening nut with a torque of 7.9–9.8 N.m (0.8–1.0 kgf.m).We fix the crankcase on the workbench so that its attachment plane is horizontal. We install a curved ruler in the bed of bearings with an edge so that the touch of the bed ruler occurs along the line.With a set of flat probes, we determine the size of the gap between the ruler and the fixture plate.The thickness of the adjusting ring is determined by the difference between the gap and the deviation from the nominal position of the new gear (taking into account the sign of the deviation).The marking of the deviation from the nominal position (in hundredths of a millimeter with plus or minus signs) is applied on the conical part of the pinion shank.For example, the measured clearance is 2.90 mm, and the gear is marked with a deviation from the nominal position of -15. Convert the deviation to millimeters: -15 x 0.01 = -0.15.The required thickness of the adjusting ring will be: 2.90 - (-0.15) = 3.05 mm.We install the adjusting ring of the required thickness on the new drive gear. We remove the device from the gearbox housing and remove the inner rings of the front and rear bearings with separators and rollers.With a suitable piece of pipe, we press the inner ring of the rear bearing with a cage and rollers onto the new drive gear.We insert the drive gear into the gearbox housing. We install a new spacer sleeve, the inner ring of the front bearing with a separator and rollers and an oil deflector. Having lubricated the working edge of the new oil seal with Litol-24 grease, we press it into the crankcase socket. Install the drive gear flange.Having locked the flange, gradually tighten the nut of its fastening with a torque wrench until the moment of 118 N.m (12 kgf.m).The preload of the drive gear bearings is controlled by a dynamometer.... periodically checking the moment of resistance of the bearings to the rotation of the drive gear.If the moment of resistance to rotation turned out to be less than 157 N.cm (16 kgf.cm) - for new bearings, and for bearings after 30 km of run - less than 39.2 N.cm (4 kgf.cm), then we tighten the flange fastening nut, do not exceeding tightening torque. After that, we again check the moment of resistance to rotation of the drive gear.If the moment of resistance turned out to be more than 197 N.cm (20 kgf.cm) - for new bearings, and for worn-in bearings - more than 59.0 N.cm (6 kgf.cm), then the preload of the bearings is exceeded.In this case, it is necessary to replace the excessively deformed spacer with a new one and reassemble and adjust.We install the differential assembly with bearings and adjusting nuts in the gearbox housing so that they come into contact with the outer rings of the bearings. Tighten the bearing cap bolts to the required torque.From a steel plate 49.5 mm wide and 3–4 mm thick, we make a special wrench for tightening the adjusting nuts.The adjustment of the side clearance in the engagement of the main gear gears and the preload of the bearings of the differential box are carried out simultaneously, in several stages.Measure the distance between the bearing caps with a caliper.We wrap the left adjusting nut (on the side of the driven gear) until the gap in the meshing of the final drive gears is completely eliminated.We wrap the right nut until it stops and tighten it by 1-2 teeth of the nut.Tightening the left nut, we set the required side clearance of 0.08–0.13 mm in the meshing of the final drive gears.With this gap, shaking the driven gear, with the fingers of the hand we feel the minimum backlash in the engagement of the gears, accompanied by a slight knock of tooth on tooth.
When tightening the bearing cap nuts, the differential boxes diverge and the distance between them increases.To set the preload of the bearings of the differential box, sequentially and evenly tighten both adjusting nuts of the bearings until the distance between the covers is 0.15–0.20 mm. Having set the preload of the bearings, we finally check the side clearance in the meshing of the main gear gears, which should not change. For this,…... slowly turning the driven gear three turns, with our fingers we control the play in the engagement of each pair of teeth.If the gap in the engagement is greater than the required one (0.08-0.13 mm), then by rotating the adjusting nuts we bring the driven gear closer to the drive gear or move it away if the gap is smaller. In order to maintain the set bearing preload at the same time, we move the driven gear by tightening one of the adjusting nuts and loosening the other by the same angle.After adjustment, install the locking plates of the adjusting nuts and fix them with bolts.Disassembly of the rear axle gearboxBefore removing, clean the gearbox from dirt. We install the dismantled gearbox on a workbench.Using the “10” wrench, we unscrew the bolt securing the locking plate of the adjusting nut of the right bearing of the differential box ...Similarly, remove the lock plate of the adjusting nut of the left bearing.With a center punch we mark the location of the bearing caps of the differential box on the gearbox housing.With a 17 spanner, we unscrew the two bolts securing the cover of the right bearing of the differential box ...Remove the right bearing cover.Remove adjusting nut...... and remove the outer ring of the differential box bearing.Similarly, remove the cover, remove the adjusting nut and remove the outer ring of the left bearing of the differential box.
If we do not change the bearings of the differential box, then we mark their outer rings in order not to confuse them during assembly.

We remove the differential box assembly with the driven gear of the final drive, inner rings, separators and bearing rollers.From the crankcase, we take out the drive gear assembly with the adjusting ring, the inner ring, the separator and the rear bearing rollers and the spacer sleeve.By striking with a hammer through a drift on the inner ring of the rear bearing of the gearbox, ...... remove the inner ring with a separator and rollers.Remove the drive gear adjusting ring....and the inner ring of the front bearing with cage and rollers.With a punch, we knock out the outer ring of the front bearing of the drive gear ...Turning the crankcase over, similarly knock out the outer ring of the rear bearing of the drive gear.
To disassemble the differential.... With a puller, we press the inner ring of the bearing of the differential box.In the absence of a puller, we insert a chisel between the end face of the inner ring of the bearing and the differential box.By striking the chisel, we shift the inner ring of the bearing.We insert two powerful screwdrivers (or mounting blades) into the resulting gap and press it ...… the bearing inner ring with cage and rollers.Similarly, we press the inner ring of the other bearing.
Clamping the differential box in a vise with soft metal jaws, ...... with a “17” spanner, we unscrew the eight bolts securing the driven gear to the differential box.With a hammer with a plastic striker, we knock down the driven gear from the differential box ...Turning the satellites, we take them out of the differential box.We take out the side gears.We check the ease of rotation of the gears of the differential.With a tool head suitable in diameter (a piece of pipe), we press the outer ring of the front bearing into the housing of the crankcase.Press in the outer ring of the rear bearing in the same way.
The correct position of the drive gear relative to the driven gear is ensured by selecting the thickness of the adjusting ring installed between the end face of the drive gear and the inner ring of the rear bearing. When replacing the main pair of the gearbox or drive gear bearings, we select the adjusting ring. To do this, we make a fixture from an old drive gear: we weld a plate 80 mm long to the gear and grind the plate to a size of 50–0.02 mm relative to the end of the gear (the plane of contact of the adjusting ring).A fixture made from an old drive gear.We grind (or process with fine sandpaper) the installation site of the rear bearing on the drive gear so that the inner ring of the bearing is installed in a sliding fit. We install the inner ring of the rear bearing with a cage and rollers on the manufactured fixture and insert the fixture into the crankcase. Then we install the inner ring of the front bearing with the cage and rollers and the drive gear flange. Turning the gear by the flange for the correct installation of the bearing rollers, tighten the flange fastening nut with a torque of 7.9–9.8 N.m (0.8–1.0 kgf.m).
We fix the crankcase on the workbench so that its attachment plane is horizontal. We install a curved ruler in the bed of bearings with an edge so that the touch of the bed ruler occurs along the line.With a set of flat probes, we determine the size of the gap between the ruler and the fixture plate.The thickness of the adjusting ring is determined by the difference between the gap and the deviation from the nominal position of the new gear (taking into account the sign of the deviation).The marking of the deviation from the nominal position (in hundredths of a millimeter with plus or minus signs) is applied on the conical part of the pinion shank.For example, the measured clearance is 2.90 mm, and the gear is marked with a deviation from the nominal position of -15. Convert the deviation to millimeters: -15 x 0.01 = -0.15.
The required thickness of the adjusting ring will be: 2.90 - (-0.15) = 3.05 mm.
We install the adjusting ring of the required thickness on the new drive gear.We remove the device from the gearbox housing and remove the inner rings of the front and rear bearings with separators and rollers.With a suitable piece of pipe, we press the inner ring of the rear bearing with a cage and rollers onto the new drive gear.We insert the drive gear into the gearbox housing. We install a new spacer sleeve, the inner ring of the front bearing with a separator and rollers and an oil deflector. Having lubricated the working edge of the new oil seal with Litol-24 grease, we press it into the crankcase socket. Install the drive gear flange.Having locked the flange, gradually tighten the nut of its fastening with a torque wrench until the moment of 118 N.m (12 kgf.m).The preload of the drive gear bearings is controlled by a dynamometer.... periodically checking the moment of resistance of the bearings to the rotation of the drive gear.If the moment of resistance to rotation turned out to be less than 157 N.cm (16 kgf.cm) - for new bearings, and for bearings after 30 km of run - less than 39.2 N.cm (4 kgf.cm), then we tighten the flange fastening nut, do not exceeding tightening torque. After that, we again check the moment of resistance to rotation of the drive gear.
If the moment of resistance turned out to be more than 197 N.cm (20 kgf.cm) - for new bearings, and for worn-in bearings - more than 59.0 N.cm (6 kgf.cm), then the preload of the bearings is exceeded.
In this case, it is necessary to replace the excessively deformed spacer with a new one and reassemble and adjust.
We install the differential assembly with bearings and adjusting nuts in the gearbox housing so that they come into contact with the outer rings of the bearings. Tighten the bearing cap bolts to the required torque.
From a steel plate 49.5 mm wide and 3–4 mm thick, we make a special wrench for tightening the adjusting nuts.
The adjustment of the side clearance in the engagement of the main gear gears and the preload of the bearings of the differential box are carried out simultaneously, in several stages.Measure the distance between the bearing caps with a caliper.We wrap the left adjusting nut (on the side of the driven gear) until the gap in the meshing of the final drive gears is completely eliminated.We wrap the right nut until it stops and tighten it by 1-2 teeth of the nut.Tightening the left nut, we set the required side clearance of 0.08–0.13 mm in the meshing of the final drive gears.
With this gap, shaking the driven gear, with the fingers of the hand we feel the minimum backlash in the engagement of the gears, accompanied by a slight knock of tooth on tooth.
When tightening the bearing cap nuts, the differential boxes diverge and the distance between them increases.
To set the preload of the bearings of the differential box, sequentially and evenly tighten both adjusting nuts of the bearings until the distance between the covers is 0.15–0.20 mm. Having set the preload of the bearings, we finally check the side clearance in the meshing of the main gear gears, which should not change. For this,…... slowly turning the driven gear three turns, with our fingers we control the play in the engagement of each pair of teeth.If the gap in the engagement is greater than the required one (0.08-0.13 mm), then by rotating the adjusting nuts we bring the driven gear closer to the drive gear or move it away if the gap is smaller. In order to maintain the set bearing preload at the same time, we move the driven gear by tightening one of the adjusting nuts and loosening the other by the same angle.
After adjustment, install the locking plates of the adjusting nuts and fix them with bolts.

The rear axle of the car is made in the form of a hollow beam, to the ends of which flanges are welded with seats for axle shaft bearings and holes for attaching brake shields.In the middle, a main gear gearbox with a differential is bolted to the beam, and from the side of the flanges, two semi-axes are inserted into the beam, transmitting torque from the gearbox to the rear wheels.The main gear is hypoid, its gears are matched for noise and contact, so they can only be replaced as an assembly (pair marking - 2106).The main gear drive gear is made integral with the shaft (shank) and is installed in the neck of the gearbox on two tapered bearings. The outer rings of the bearings are pressed into the neck sockets, and the inner rings are put on the shank. A spacer sleeve is installed between the inner rings; when the shank nut is tightened, the sleeve is deformed, providing a constant bearing preload. Bearing preload is controlled by the moment of rotation of the drive gear (other parts are not installed). For new bearings, the turning torque should be in the range of 157-197 Nm, for bearings after a run of 30 km or more - 39.2-59.0 Nm. In this case, the shank nut is tightened with a torque of 118-255 Nm, periodically checking the rotation of the drive gear. If the specified turning torque has already been reached and the tightening torque of the nut is less than 118 Nm, the spacer sleeve must be replaced with a new one, as the old one is too deformed. Replacing the bushing is also necessary in the case when the turning torque turned out to be higher than the permissible one (due to inattention when tightening).If the main pair or pinion bearings are replaced, the thickness of the shim must be re-selected. It is mounted on the shaft between the drive gear and the inner ring of the large bearing.The final drive gear is attached to the differential box flange with special bolts without washers. These bolts cannot be replaced by any other. The differential box rotates in two conical bearings. Their preload, as well as the gap between the teeth of the main gear gears, is regulated by nuts wrapped in split bearing beds. The side gears are installed in the cylindrical sockets of the differential box and rest on it through the support washers. These washers are selected in thickness so that the gap between the teeth of the satellites and side gears is within 0 - 0.1 mm. Satellites are mounted on axles with constant meshing with side gears. Spiral grooves are made on the axis for supplying lubricant to rubbing surfaces.The axle shaft at one end rests on a single-row ball bearing installed in the seat of the rear axle beam, and the other (splined) end enters the side gear. The inner ring of the bearing is fixed on the axle shaft with a locking ring installed with an interference fit (shrink fit). The outer ring of the bearing is fixed by a plate, which, together with the oil deflector and the brake shield, is fastened with four bolts and nuts to the rear axle beam.1.3 liters of gear oil are poured into the rear axle housing (almost to the lower edge of the filler hole). The outputs of the semi-axes from the beam are sealed with glands. If the oil seals are leaking, the oil is discharged through the oil deflector to the outside of the brake shield - so it does not get on the brake pads. The stuffing box, installed in the neck of the reducer, works on the surface of the flange. An oil deflector is installed between the bearing and the flange. Oil leakage from under the self-locking flange fastening nut (the same nut adjusts the bearing preload) indicates a weakening of its tightening. Operating the vehicle with a loose gearbox nut can result in damage to the gearbox.To equalize the pressure outside and inside the rear axle housing, a breather is located on the rear axle beam above the gearbox. At every maintenance, check that the breather cap is not stuck.We check the tightness of all threaded connections and, if necessary, tighten them. The breather cap must be free of dirt and free to rotate.We apply a force of about 10 kgf along the axis of the suspended wheel with our hands and determine the presence of axle play. It is allowed no more than 0.7 mm. The parking brake must be released during this test. A slight oil leakage (sweating) from under the cuff of the front bearing of the main gear is allowed, but if the gearbox and the bottom of the car above the main gear are heavily oiled, the cuff should be replaced.To determine the noise in the rear axle and, accordingly, the need for repair, you can use the results of the following tests.Test 1. We smoothly accelerate the car on a flat road from a speed of 20 to 90 km / h. At the same time, we listen to the noise and notice the speed at which it appears and disappears. We release the "gas" pedal and listen to the car in the engine braking mode. Usually the noise comes on and off at the same speeds, both when accelerating and when decelerating.Test 2. We accelerate the car to a speed of 100 km / h, move the gear lever to neutral, turn off the ignition and roll freely to a stop. At the same time, we monitor the nature of the noise at various deceleration rates.In the first version, we tested the gearbox in the acceleration and deceleration mode under the load created by the engine. In the second - without it. If the sound is present only during the first test, the cause may be the gears of the gearbox, bearings of the drive gear or differential. If the noise appears in both cases, its source must be sought elsewhere.Test 3. We set the gear lever to the neutral position, start the engine and gradually increase the speed of the crankshaft. Compare the resulting noises with those seen earlier. If they are similar to the noises from the first test, this indicates that they are not coming from the gearbox.

Video (click to play).

Test 4. Noises found during the first test and not present during subsequent tests are caused by the gearbox. To confirm, we raise the rear wheels, start the engine and turn on the fourth gear. We make sure that the noise really comes from the gearbox, and not from other components or parts.