The steering rack is a device that transfers the applied force from the steering wheel to the columns and tips, which, in turn, allow the front wheels to turn synchronously. The most loaded node of the control rack is the connection among the gears and the toothed base. Most often, problems appear in this pair. It can also be simple gear wear or physical destruction. Often, the steering rack mechanism works without problems, but if used improperly or through a measured load, the steering rack can break and cause inconvenience to the driver.In such cases, repairing the steering rack Ford Focus 2 is the only option to protect yourself from troubles when operating a car.
The steering rack of a car is an important part of the steering. The mechanical rail is an ordinary device. This is a gear structure mounted on the steering column, which works with a rack and is connected to the drive of the steering link trapeziums. A hydraulic rack is installed on many modern cars. Such a steering river is more convenient to control, because it is connected to the power steering and allows the driver to apply less force while driving. There is also an electric steering rack. Its distinctive feature: there is no hydraulics in the mechanism, and the efforts when controlling the steering wheel are carried out by an electric motor.
The main task of the steering rack is to ensure the synchronization and maneuverability of the wheels, therefore it needs special care. Repair of the Ford Focus 2 steering rack is required in such cases:
If, after the car is idle, there are traces of leaks, then it is necessary to make a complete diagnosis of the steering. And restoration means: replacement of oil seals, anthers and seal rings. If the steering rack is only slightly deformed or rust has appeared in it, then it must be sanded, which will be absolutely sufficient.
No hum or tapping should be heard during operation of the steering racks, therefore, if such signs of breakdown are found, they should be immediately eliminated. Most often, a malfunction can be detected when the car is moving, namely when entering a turn. And also there may be jolts to the steering wheel, which confirm that the steering rack is in a faulty condition. Similar difficulties may require restoring bushings that were previously worn out or replacing the gear element of the mechanism. The main cause of premature wear of steering parts is a torn boot, through which moisture and dirt enters the steering rack. As a result, they settle on the worm pair and the backlash increases.
It should be noted that during the repair of the Ford Focus 2 steering rack with your own hands, you may encounter uncomfortable overcoming of various irregularities and other factors that will cause discomfort. In the second generation of this vehicle, the steering crankcase is located under the bonnet and attached to the front suspension. In addition, it is equipped with an energy absorber, which gives greater safety to the steering position adjustment system and the mechanism in the ignition lock. And also in the steering column there are mechanisms that are responsible for additional functions of the car: a direction indicator, turning on the headlights and controlling the washer and cleaner. Without exception, all of these hardware organs are connected to a single source of steering column switches.
Thus, you can start describing and watching a video of repairing a Ford Focus 2 steering rack with your own hands.
A standard set of tools is required to repair steering racks. In frequent cases, a malfunction of the mechanism is associated with wear of the bushings and rack teeth. The structure of this type does not withstand strong shocks and mechanical loads, which, in principle, is impossible on our roads. To fix the problem, you will need to sort out and replace some parts. And to extend the life of the parts, you can buy reinforced mechanisms that will last much longer.
This completes the repair of the Ford Focus 2 steering rack with your own hands. Depending on the specific malfunction, all worn out parts should be repaired in time, which can lead to unforeseen situations on the road.
VIDEO
The steering rack on a Ford Focus car is a device that serves as a connection between the steering tips and the column, and also transmits the applied force. Thus, the wheels are moved and the turn is performed due to the fact that the tips touch the steering levers. They, in turn, are responsible for the movement of the wheels, and therefore determine the further direction of movement. In general, this mechanism works without problems and is reliable, but breakdowns and inconveniences can arise due to improper operation or excessive loading. In this case, repairing the steering rack is the only way out if you want to operate your Ford Focus safely and comfortably.
Since the main task of steering racks on cars is to ensure their mobility and maneuverability, it requires special care and maintenance. Repairs may be required in the following situations:
When there is noise or knocking.
If fluid leaks.
With poor steering sensitivity.
In the presence of backlash.
If after parking the car there is a trace of a leak, then you will need to diagnose the steering system, and repairs may involve replacing oil seals, anthers and seal rings. If the steering rack of the Ford Focus 2 is only slightly deformed or corrosion has formed on it, then it will have to be sanded, which will be quite enough.
Noise and knocking should not accompany the operation of the steering racks, and therefore if you find these malfunctions on your Ford Focus, then you should eliminate them. As a rule, they appear when the car moves in a corner. Moreover, jolts can also appear on the steering wheel. Such problems may require repairing bushings that are already worn out, or replacing the gear part of the mechanism.
It should be noted that when there is a backlash in the steering racks on the Ford Focus, you may encounter uncomfortable overcoming of various irregularities, etc.
On a second generation Ford Focus, the steering housing is located under the hood and is bolted to the front suspension. Generally speaking, the stand is quite reliable and secure. In addition, it is equipped with energy absorbers, which are used for safety, a steering position adjustment system and a mechanism in the ignition lock, which, in case of leaving, will block the wheel shaft and it will not turn.
Also on the steering column there are mechanisms responsible for the direction indicators, headlights, washer and wiper control. All these bodies are combined into one block of steering column switches.Among other things, for Ford Focus hatchback or Ford Focus station wagon cars, a rear door glass control mechanism is provided. So, now you can start describing the main features of the rail repair, as well as describing the sequence of actions.
Repairing steering racks usually requires a standard set of tools, including a jack, wrenches and new parts. In most cases, mechanism malfunctions are associated with the destruction of support bushings and rack teeth. Moreover, the very design of this device is such that strong blows to the suspension, which are not uncommon on our road, negatively affect the steering mechanism. In order to cope with these problems, some elements will need to be iterated over and replaced. By the way, you can purchase reinforced parts that will last an order of magnitude longer.
Repair of the rail involves the following actions:
Preparatory work - it is necessary to raise the Ford Focus on the lift, loosen the wheels and disconnect the battery. You can also do with an ordinary pit, but this will significantly complicate your work, and convenience will be a huge question, since you have to put the car on the blocks.
Remove the subframe by unscrewing the mounting bolts. After that, dismantle the steering shaft mount.
We unscrew the bolts that are used to fasten the high pressure pipes.
We disassemble the steering rack mounts and completely remove it.
We disassemble the steering rack, clean it well from dust and dirt both outside and inside. Next, you need to wash it thoroughly.
It is advisable to replace the lateral pull-up nut, since it is inexpensive, and in case of failure, the mechanism will have to be disassembled again.
We remove the rod of the rail, which quite often rusts and begins to flow.
We disassemble the rail and, if necessary, replace parts in poor condition.
Rebuilding the stock.
We assemble the Ford Focus steering rack, and then check it using a special stand (if available). It is advisable to cover the anthers with clamps.
We put the steering wheel straight and install the rail back, and also mount the subframe.
We flush the system and fill in new fluid.
That's all, the repair of the rail is over. Depending on the specific breakdown, it is necessary to replace the worn out parts, after which the steering mechanism on the Ford Focus will be restored and work without problems.
We independently tighten the rail to FF2
Typical symptoms: knocking in the area of the steering shaft on irregularities when passing right bends
Remove the left front wheel to access the plastic green plug (stopper) of the adjusting bolt - you need to pry it out with something like a long enough slotted screwdriver.
We climb under the car, taking with us a key for 17 and a flashlight (if it's dark).
Taking the key in the right hand and the flashlight in the left, we put the right one in the opening between the bottom and the stretcher and look through the same opening at the adjusting bolt, highlighting it with a flashlight on the left hand.
Twist the bolt clockwise (tighten) until slight resistance appears, and then loosen a little back. We start the engine, turn the steering wheel from edge to edge - it should not become heavier at any angle of rotation. If it has become, then it has been pulled over and it is necessary to loosen it a little.
We put the removed wheel in place. Everything is ready.
Someone puts the plug in its place (on a sealant or on glue, because its fastening is disposable), someone does not. There is little sense from it, since the bolt itself, as a rule, does not unscrew, and it is protected from dirt by a stretcher.
The steering parts on the second generation Ford Focus are highly reliable and do not often fail.
It is possible to determine that the steering rack (PP) is faulty by the following signs:
knocks appeared in the steering, they are especially noticeable when driving on an uneven road;
oil flows in the PP.
The main reason for the premature wear of parts in the steering mechanism (RM) is a torn boot, through which moisture, dirt and dust enter the PP, and all this settles on the worm pair. As a result of wear of parts in the steering, play increases, which cannot be removed by adjustment.
When defects are found in the steering rack, the car owner is faced with a choice:
replace the mechanism;
repair the PP.
Often the cost plays a decisive role here, it depends on it whether a replacement or repair is made. The new RM for the Ford Focus 2 model costs an average of 12 to 25 thousand rubles, the price depends on the manufacturer. Accordingly, original production parts are more expensive, non-original parts have a lower price. There is also an option - to purchase a remanufactured mechanism or a used one, you can look for spare parts at auto disassembly sites.
The cost of repairing a steering rack for Ford Focus 2 is about 4 thousand rubles on average in Moscow, approximately 2.5-3 thousand rubles. repair kit PP will cost. It is certainly more profitable to repair a mechanism than to change it, but it is not always possible to restore its working capacity.
Do-it-yourself steering rack repair on any car is not an easy task, it requires certain knowledge and qualifications. If the car owner does not have car mechanic talent, care and accuracy, it is not worth undertaking such repairs. In order to repair the PP on the FF-2 car, it is necessary to remove the mechanism. Parts that fail in the first place:
support plastic sleeve;
worm gear teeth (wear occurs).
To repair the mechanism, it is necessary to disassemble it and make a defect - determine which parts need to be replaced. On the rail removed from the car, disassembly is performed in the following order:
remove the clamps from the anthers, move the anthers closer to the steering tips;
dismantle the steering rods;
remove the locknut;
take out the clamp adjusting nut;
After disassembly, all parts of the steering mechanism are thoroughly washed and wiped, and those parts that have defects are discarded. If the rod of the rack is worn out, or traces of corrosion are observed on it, it is necessary to process the surface of the shaft on a lathe.
The assembly of the mechanism begins with the installation of the oil seal on the left side of the case. Then:
grease the rod teeth with grease, mount the shaft in the housing;
we lubricate the camshaft and install it in the housing;
install an oil seal on the distributor, set it in place, put a stopper on top;
install the clamp parts in place, adjust the rod clamp;
install steering rods, anthers. That's it, the rake is assembled.
In order to repair the steering rack, it must be removed. We dismantle the PP in the following sequence:
we jack up the car from the right and left front sides alternately, remove the wheels, setting the car on supports;
in the cabin, we untwist the mount that connects the steering column to the steering shaft cardan;
using a puller, disconnect the steering tips from the steering knuckles;
unscrew the bolts of the heat shield, dismantle the shield;
disconnect the tubes that supply oil to it from the rail;
we unscrew the two PP fasteners to the subframe, for this you need a 15 spanner key or a head with a knob
dismantle the rear gearbox support;
unscrew the subframe bolts, dismantle it together with the rail.
During the operation of the car, knocks may appear in the steering system, as a rule, knocking:
tips;
traction;
the rack itself due to the increased clearance in the connection between the rod and the camshaft.
The gap in the joint is not always formed as a result of wear of parts; in some cases, adjustment is required. The adjusting bolt is located on the left side of the housing on the PP from the inside, from the factory it is protected from turning by a plug.
If the rail has never been tightened, the plug should be removed - it is plastic and fragile, you can pry it off with a screwdriver or crush it into pieces.The adjusting bolt has 17 mm edges and is tightened clockwise to reduce the gap. You need to tighten the rail with a short key; it will be difficult to crawl up to the nut with a long key. It is not necessary to pull the bolt all the way to the stop, it is better to turn it a little and try to ride the car, check if there is still a knock.
It is not necessary to put the stopper back, the bolt itself will not turn anyway. Time work takes 20-30 minutes, the most difficult thing here is to get to the adjusting bolt.
Before removing the mechanism, it is necessary to prepare a container for fluid; when the pipes are unscrewed, the hydraulic oil will flow;
If the rack rod is heavily rusty, most likely, repairs will not help here, a complete replacement of the mechanism is needed.
Removing the PP is convenient when the wheels are straight.
While operating the car, it is necessary to periodically monitor the condition of the rail. If the boot is dripping, it should be replaced immediately.
PP repair is a rather complicated operation, it is better to entrust such work to professionals.
VIDEO
For any owner of this car, a knock on the steering rack of a Ford Focus 2 is a sore point. The relatively low cost of the car and its quite acceptable appearance seduce many people. The prevalence of spare parts for the car also speaks in favor of buying it. It seems that there are plenty of specialists in Ford's, so it would seem that unsolvable problems should not be caught. But still there are cases when the rake on the Focus 2 starts knocking even before the car has run 50,000 km, which is simply not serious. And individual copies began to rumble almost on the way from the car dealership to the house.
If you managed to drive your car for more than half a hundred without hearing such characteristic sounds, consider yourself lucky and get ready to listen. The fact is that the knock on the rail on the Focus 2 is a design flaw.
Dealers know about it, although they are silent when selling. And if you contact them soon with a question, most salons will tell you that there is nothing to worry about: this is normal. There was even a special dealership-Ford term: "cosmetic knock". The problem is that it still indicates a problem with the rail. If it were just a soundtrack of movement, one could get used to it. But the appearance of such an acoustic accompaniment indicates that the time has come to pay increased attention to the filling of your car.
Knock on the steering rack Ford Focus 2 appears necessarily, however, it is not always possible to eliminate it. Our goal is to still try to ensure the normal and comfortable operation of our car, even in spite of the flaws of the engineers.
What can happen when driving on our roads:
The bushing is covered with a pair of worms. An approximate symptom will be a specific knock coming from the front suspension when you turn the steering wheel;
If the distributor rod is worn out, the rumble is accompanied by an off-design steering play, and it significantly exceeds the correct indicators;
In a pair of worms, the teeth can be damaged (or worn out). In this case, the steering wheel will get stuck when cornering. Drivers refer to this phenomenon as snacking;
Seals may be damaged or corroded. An additional sign of problems with them will be fluid leakage and premature emptying of the tank;
The rail, among other things, does not have high anti-corrosion qualities. With active driving, already on the way to a run of 50,000 km, it can rust to a high degree. A symptom parallel to knocking is difficulty turning the steering wheel.
The main disappointment for the owners of Ford Focus 2 is that chamber movements are indispensable in determining the causes of the appearance of dubious sounds. There are no more vulnerable nodes in this part of the car; they are all equally likely to suffer.
You will have to completely disassemble the rail and look for what exactly makes you nervous while driving. In this case, it can only be repaired if two boundary conditions are met:
the bearing rack and pinion shaft is not deformed or bent;
the same shaft is not corroded. In any case, to such an extent that anti-rust cannot cope with the converted layer. Scientifically speaking, the corroded surface is no more than 30 percent and the depth of the lesion is no more than 1 mm.
If the shaft is bent or heavily rusted (all the more so when both indicators are combined), the only way out is to completely replace the rail. The starting price of the issue is 30,000 rubles, and very few people manage to keep within it;
With the likelihood of avoiding such global costs, the algorithm of actions is as follows;
The machine is lifted by a lift or driven into a pit. Jacking up will not work;
Focus steering rack repair has a number of specific points. Let's start with the fact that generations of Focuses replaced each other along with the design of the steering rack.
Unites all generations steering rack focus one - problems with a biscuit.
Rusk in steering rack focus it is needed to stabilize the rack-shaft against vertical movements and simultaneously press the teeth. The shaft-rack in an ideal rack should only move along its axis (to the left or to the right along the direction of the car), but not otherwise. A malfunction in which the shaft-rack begins to dangle up and down is caused by wear of the crankcase of the cracker and the cracker itself, or squeezing out the plastic plug of the cracker.
Unfortunately in steering racks Focus the cracker itself and its cap are made of plastic, and steering racks with a plastic cracker are primarily susceptible to this malfunction.
If the soft plastic of the breadcrumbs steering rack focus is worn out, or for some reason tore off the thread on the biscuit plug, this inevitably leads to knocking and backlash in the steering.
Plastic cap of a biscuit on steering racks Focus after adjustment at the factory, it is glued. Sometimes Ford Focus owners try to adjust the steering rack by twisting the cracker cap. This is mistake! Never shake off a glued plug. It will be possible to tighten it only for a very short time. After that, it will fall out and the rail will knock even harder.
The same can happen if the steering rods are not professionally replaced or repair steering rack Focus ... In this case, the cracker also squeezes out if, when unscrewing / tightening the steering rods on the car, excess torque is applied to the shaft-rail. Read about how to properly tighten the rods in the note:
At Gidrolab at repair steering rack Focus you will be offered to replace the plastic plugs with the same metal ones.
After such a replacement, the steering rack of a Ford car ceases to be disposable and becomes reliable.
Gidrolab uses its proprietary method to eliminate knocks and backlash caused by wear on the crankcase crankcase. This malfunction is eliminated once and for all.
In addition to cracker malfunctions, the Focus steering racks are characterized by a number of others. These are the backlashes in the right bushing of the rack shaft.
At repair steering rack Focus Gidrolab uses its own technology for reworking bushings and guarantees the complete absence of backlash and knocking in them. It uses machine tools and Japanese materials.
Next, we will briefly talk about the special malfunctions of the Focus steering racks of different generations.
The steering racks on the first generation Ford Focus are made quite reliably. Only severe violations in operation, such as driving with a torn boot, lead to breakage of these rails. It should be noted that some of the cars were fitted with steering racks manufactured by TRW, while others were fitted with Ford. TRW Reiki was more reliable.
On the second Ford Focus, all the problems are due to the biscuit, as it was written earlier. But there are also such malfunctions as wear of the cylinder crankcase. Steering rack cylinder The focus is worn out by the rack-shaft piston most in the middle position. After wear to the limit value, the steering wheel begins to bite in the middle position. Sometimes an unqualified repair using unsuitable piston rings can lead to this malfunction of the rack.The piston ring material matters! Many materials wear out aluminum very quickly.
On the third Focus, the rails are hydraulic or electric. Repair of the Focus-3 steering rack is no different from the repair of the Focus-2 steering rack, if it is hydraulic. But the repair of the Focus-3 electric steering rack is quite complicated. However, most often the matter is in the bushings, which the Gidrolab company can easily remake according to its technology. Our bushings run for a very long time!
The Gidrolab company gives a 13-month warranty with no mileage limitation.
We remove the steering gear for repair or replacement, as well as when replacing steering rods. We carry out the work on a viewing ditch or overpass. We set the front wheels to the position of the straight-line movement of the car. We hang the front of the car on racks and remove both front wheels. We press out the fingers of the ball joints of the ends of the steering rods from the lugs of the levers of the steering knuckles (see "Replacing the tip of the steering rod"). Remove both anti-roll bar struts of the front suspension (see "Removing the anti-roll bar").
Using the "10" head, unscrew the bolt securing the steering column shaft to the steering rack shaft ...
Disconnect the steering column shafts and racks.
Using the "10" head, unscrew the two bolts of the heat-reflecting screen.
Removing the screen. Removing the screen is necessary to facilitate the removal of the steering mechanism through the wheel arch.
Using the Torx T-25 wrench, unscrew the screw that secures the pipe holder to the steering gear housing ...
We remove the holder from the crankcase.
Using the "10" head, unscrew the bolt of the plate for attaching the tubes to the steering gear ...
We move the plate along the tube to the side so that it does not interfere with further work.
We disconnect the tubes from the steering mechanism, drain the liquid from them into a wide container. We insert plugs of a suitable diameter into the holes of the steering box crankcase. We replace the defective O-rings on the tubes with new ones.
Video (click to play).
Using the “15” head, unscrew the two bolts securing the steering box housing to the subframe. Remove the rear support of the power unit (see "Replacing the support of the power unit"). We substitute an adjustable stop under the subframe of the front suspension and unscrew the bolts of the front and rear fastening of the subframe (see "Removing the subframe"). We lower the subframe by the required amount to bring out the steering gear. We take out the steering gear through the left wheel arch. We will install the steering mechanism in the reverse order. Before installing the steering gear, we set the middle position of the rail (straight-line movement of the car). Fill the power steering reservoir with working fluid and remove air from the system (see "Removing air from the power steering hydraulic drive").