The steering rack is leaking and needs to be repaired. It should be said right away that the repair will be very difficult and it is recommended to start it for experienced drivers, as well as if you have all the necessary equipment at hand.
Before repairing, you must have on hand new parts for the steering rack (mechanism bushing, oil seals, ring seals, etc.).
1. Unscrew the rail from the steering rods with a flat screwdriver.
2. Next, you need to unscrew the plastic plug of the gear shaft.
3. Unscrew the lock nut.
4. Remove the retaining ring and gently knock the shaft out of its place.
5. Next, you need to remove the lower oil seal.
6. Pull out the locking pin by tapping.
7. Now turn the retaining plug and remove the retaining ring by the wire.
8. Pull out the steering rack through the right side, and also remove the plastic bushing and the oil seal from it.
9. Remove the plug and gland, hold-down mechanism and spring.
Now you need to wash all parts from dirt and oil, and also check all parts for damage. If there are any, replace them. If there is severe damage on the surface of the steering rack and pinion of the toothed shaft, then the entire mechanism is usually replaced.
1. Lubricate the oil seal with special grease and carefully place the inner oil seal in the desired place (put through the right side with the spring down).
2. Install the rail into the housing.
3. Put a plastic bushing on the right oil seal, lubricate the parts with grease and install the oil seal in the desired place (you can push it).
4. Now it is necessary to install and secure the plug with the locking wire.
5. Slide the lower oil seal onto the toothed shaft.
6. In the middle position, you must install the steering rack.
7. Lubricate the gear shaft seal with grease and place it in the seat.
8. Carefully insert the upper gland into place and install the circlip.
9. Install the lower retaining nut, bearing, and plug.
10. Next, install the hold-down device, spring, plug.
Now you need to install the rail on the car in reverse order.
Serviceability of the steering mechanism when driving vehicles on highways guarantees a high degree of responsibility for the driver. This is the most important unit for observing the safety of life and health of all people in the car.Therefore, increased requirements are always made to it. Regular inspection, diagnostics, scheduled preventive maintenance will allow you to safely move in the car without fear of possible malfunctions along the way.
The steering wheel turns the front wheels. This changes the trajectory of the vehicle. Facilitation of the process in the steering system is achieved by installing an electric or hydraulic power steering (EUR, GUR). The mechanism allows you to more comfortably drive the car with minimal effort, keeping it on the track. A distribution valve and a torsion bar are placed inside the hydraulic booster, which is directly connected to the steering shaft.
When turning, the torsion bar is twisted, the spool opens the channel openings, oil is supplied to the power cylinder of the hydraulic booster. The mechanism relieves pressure by pushing the rail. When you stop turning the steering wheel, the torsion bar returns to its place, the oil is poured back into the system. Cornering comfort is created by cutting the steering rack teeth at different pitch. In the center, the step is small, at the edge it is increased.
By making a small turn, the system responds smoothly to direction changes. This is important when driving fast. In-place turns are performed with less amplitude. Modern technologies have made it possible to create devices with maximum comfort and safety:
Repair of racks for all types of power steering is identical.
Slats of various designs are simple, lightweight in execution. They are distinguished by their reliability and control accuracy. Repair of the steering rack is carried out without significant effort. In the conditions of their own garage, many car owners repair rails with their own hands. The constant operation of the rudder rails as part of the mechanism under consideration entails premature wear of the surface and teeth. Backlash increases, vehicle handling is impaired.
Loose steering mechanism provokes increased wear of rubber and wheel bearings. On such a car, it is dangerous to make sharp turns, drive on ice, on wet asphalt. Maneuvers on a high-speed lane during overtaking and emergency braking are especially dangerous. The car becomes uncontrollable, at any moment it can behave unpredictably.
Visible malfunctions of the steering rack when a power steering repair is necessary:
VIDEO
The reliability of the gearing of the rack-pinion pair is provided by a special clearance. It is exhibited at the factory. The spring stop maintains the clearance accuracy during operation. Under normal conditions, it is 0.1 mm. Due to wear, the gap may be violated, then it is necessary to disassemble the hydraulic booster, check, replace the rails. Do-it-yourself work is best done on a lift, pit, overpass.
Necessary tools to repair the steering wheel yourself:
13 mm box wrench or head with a wrench;
flat screwdriver;
sharp knife;
special 24 mm wrench for rails;
hexagon with a 6 mm knob.
It is necessary to disconnect the battery, loosen the fastening bolts of the front wheels. The universal joint of the steering wheel is disconnected from the rack and pinion drive gear shaft.
By unscrewing from the pivot levers, the pivot rods are released. The nuts securing the steering mechanism are unscrewed, the clamps are removed. The mechanism with rods is removed from its original place.The steering rack is dismantled, cleaning, inspection of the entire steering wheel, repair of worn parts with their own hands. For this, the fixing clamps are cut off, the protective covers are removed. They need to be replaced with new ones.
Parts, gears, bearings removed from the pipe are washed, cleaned, and checked for correct clearances. Replacing the worn out units, the mechanism is reassembled with a lubricant inside.
Do-it-yourself power steering repair requires the presence of a special lubricant that protects rubbing parts from premature wear.
Repair work is behind, you can make a test trip. The steering wheel turns smoothly, now you can turn it with one finger. An extraordinary feeling of lightness, smoothness in all wheel movements. The knocks have disappeared, the handling is excellent, the management pleases the owner. Bon Voyage!
The steering rack transfers rotation from the steering wheel to the wheels. It affects handling, and any malfunctions in this unit make the car less obedient. Steering rack elements are subject to natural wear and tear and are subject to shock loads from driving on uneven roads. This leads to the fact that the steering rack of almost every car needs to be replaced or repaired by a mileage of 200–250 thousand km.
When driving over bumps and when turning the steering wheel, a knock is heard in the area of the steering rack.
The handling has deteriorated, the car "throws", it is especially acutely felt at high speed.
Rudder free play (backlash) is increased.
The steering wheel turns harder than usual or jerks.
The steering wheel does not return to its original position after turning, you have to turn it with your hands.
The power steering pump makes noise, the sound intensifies when the steering wheel is turned.
The oil level in the power steering reservoir is dropping.
Oil leaks are visible on or near the rail.
Almost all of the signs from the list above do not directly indicate wear on the steering rack, so before repairing you need to make sure that the problem is in it.
Suspension elements can knock - ball bearings, steering tips, silent blocks, bushings and stabilizer struts. The wear of these parts leads to poor handling, increased steering wheel play. The suspension must be checked, defective elements must be replaced.
Heavy rotation of the steering wheel, non-return or slow return to the starting position may be the result of improper adjustment of the rack or violation of wheel alignment. If you have recently adjusted the rack, redo it, but already correctly, check the wheel alignment angles at the workshop.
For cars with an electric power steering, the cause of a "heavy" steering wheel may be an electric motor failure, open or short circuit, oxidation of contacts in the connectors, a malfunction of the system control unit or blown fuses.
Leakage of fluid from the power steering system and the noise of the power steering pump are associated - oil flows out through worn out oil seals and seals. Through them, air enters the system, due to which the pump makes noise. Inspect the pump housing, hoses and connections; if you find a leak, fix it.
How to determine wear of parts inside the rail?
On a muffled car, shake the steering wheel left and right with a small amplitude. If you hear a knock, repair is needed. If there is an assistant, let him at this time take hold of the steering rod with his hand, so you can more accurately determine where the backlash is.
Replacing a faulty rail with a new one is easier than repairing it. But more expensive. Consider the cost of repairing the rail of a 2009 Ford Focus II. The new original rail costs 45,000 rubles. Substitutes offer to buy at a price of 20,000 rubles, but their resource, according to car owners, is unpredictable.
A repair kit for a Ford Focus II rail costs 2,500 rubles, anthers with clamps - 600 rubles. The savings are obvious, but it will take about 2 days to remove, repair and install the unit. For dismantling and installation, a regular set of wrenches is suitable, but in order to disassemble and assemble the rail, you need a special tool, which you will have to buy or make yourself.
Before starting the repair, try to soberly assess your strengths and capabilities, compare the benefits of self-repair and the upcoming labor costs.
Dismantling the rail has its own characteristics for each car, but in general, the procedure is as follows:
Install the front of the car on supports, remove the wheels.
Press out the steering tips from the steering knuckle pins (use a special puller).
Remove the heat shield of the rail.
For cars with a power steering - unscrew the oil supply and return hoses (place a container under the hoses to drain the fluid), for cars with an electric power steering - disconnect the connector or remove the steering shaft position sensor.
Remove the bolts securing the steering rack to the subframe or engine shield (depending on the make and model of the car).
Loosen the pinning bolt of the universal joint between the rack and the steering shaft.
Pull the rack in the direction of the steering shaft to release the spline connection (if the rack does not go, it is allowed to knock it down with light hammer blows).
Pull out the rack through the left or right wheel arch (depending on the layout of the engine compartment).
Pressing out the steering tip with a puller
Tip: not in every car you can get the rail just like that - the stretcher can interfere. Removing it completely is long and difficult, try to unscrew only the rear bolts and the engine support, then take the subframe down. This is often enough and the rake is released.
To remove the rail in the Peugeot 308, you need to unscrew the rear bolts of the subframe and swing it down, this is easier than removing the entire subframe.
After dismantling, the rail must be cleaned of dirt and washed.
It is better to disassemble and assemble the steering rack clean, without sand and dust. If abrasive particles get inside, the surfaces and seals will quickly wear out, the rack will flow. Fix the rail in a locksmith's vice, if not, place clean cardboard or other material in place of disassembly.
Important: do not clamp the rail too tightly in a vice - its brittle aluminum alloy body may burst or deform.
Remove the clamps and pull off the steering boot boots.
Securely fix the rack housing and unscrew the steering rods (there are grooves for an open-end wrench on the threaded sleeve).
Unscrew the locknut and nut of the adjusting mechanism, remove the washers and the pressure sleeve from the seat.
Unscrew the drive shaft housing or nut (a special wrench may be needed), remove the shaft from the housing.
Pull out the rack rack.
Take out the sealing collars, bushings and PTFE rings from the rack housing.
The location of the drive shaft and toothed rod in the steering rack
Tip: Before disassembling the rack, mark the position of the toothed rod or measure how much it protrudes from the body on both sides, so that you can reassemble it correctly. Mark the position of the adjusting nut and count the turns as you unscrew it in order to set the pressure sleeve in the correct position after assembly.
The parts of the disassembled rail must be wiped off oil, cleaned of deposits and carefully examined. In repair kits, only rubber seals and PTFE bushings with rings are usually supplied. This may not be enough for every case.
Carefully inspect the surface of the toothed rod for damage and wear. Pay particular attention to the working area - the teeth and the part of the stem that comes into contact with the rings, seals and bushings. Any damage, corrosion, risks and scuffing will lead to rapid wear of the seals and leakage of the rack.
Deep corrosion of the rod stem. Such a detail cannot be used.
There should be no cracks, notches, chips and deep wear on the bevel teeth of the drive shaft gear. It is dangerous to install a shaft with such damage - the rack can jam in motion.
A common cause of knocks in the rail is wear of the pressure sleeve. The working surface of the part must be smooth, without traces of punching and scoring. The clamping sleeve is usually not in the rack repair kit, but for many cars it can be purchased separately.
Wear of the pressure sleeve - the PTFE insert is pressed through
Severely worn and damaged rail parts cannot be repaired in a garage. If problems are found during troubleshooting, contact specialized service stations for help. There they can restore the shaft and the rod of the rack using professional equipment.
Assemble the rail in the reverse order of disassembly. Lubricate the parts with power steering oil before installation so that no scoring occurs on the bushings.
Insert PTFE rings and bushings into the rack housing carefully - the material is fragile and can burst from impacts or great force. For accurate insertion, you can use an appropriately sized socket and extension from the wrench set.
After installing the toothed rod, center it according to the marks made before disassembling, then insert and screw the drive shaft.
Insert the clamping sleeve and washers into the socket, tighten the adjusting nut by the required number of turns and turn the mechanism by hand several times from lock to lock (you need to rotate by the drive shaft). If the rack is assembled correctly, the toothed rod should move easily without jamming. Tighten the adjuster locknut.
Tighten the tie rods and install the anthers, squeeze them with special clamps.
Important: do not put plastic ties instead of clamps, they do not provide reliable crimping of the boot, moisture will get into the rail, the stem will rust and damage the cuffs. The rail will flow.
It is better to put the steering rack on the car with an assistant - one starts the rack from the side of the engine compartment, the other directs the cardan joint into the shaft splines from the passenger compartment. The cardan joint can only be put in one position - there is a special casting in the splined joint, which must be combined with the groove on the mating part. Do not immediately tighten the pinch bolt - the cardan joint will take the correct position on the splines after the rail and subframe are finally screwed on.
Install and tighten the steering rack and subframe mounting bolts, then finally tighten the steering shaft universal joint pinch bolt.
Insert the pins of the steering ends into the trunnions and tighten the nuts. Connect the tubes and hoses of the power steering (or wire connectors for the system with EUR). Fill the power steering fluid into the reservoir up to the “maximum” mark.
Install the wheels and, without removing the car from the stands, start bleeding the system (for cars with a power steering).
Scroll the steering wheel several times from lock to lock with a slight delay in the extreme positions.
Remove the car from the stands, add fluid to the power steering reservoir if the level drops.
Scroll the steering wheel several times from lock to lock, also with a delay in the extreme positions.
Make sure that the power steering pump does not make noise, add fluid to the tank if the level has dropped and inspect the connections, hoses and power steering tubes for leaks.
Tip: do not rush to install the heat shield, it will be more difficult to inspect the rail during the test ride.
After bleeding, check again the tightness of all threaded connections and make a test drive. Repair of the steering rack can be considered successful if:
The knocking and noises stopped.
The fluid level in the power steering reservoir does not drop.
The car handles well, holds the road confidently.
If everything is in order, reinstall the heat shield.
After repairing the steering rack, be sure to check the alignment at a car service or yourself.
Repairing the steering rack yourself in the garage is profitable, but not easy. It takes a tool, time and patience.
Specialized car services offer an alternative to repairing in the garage or buying a new part - a complete restoration of the rail.
The specialists themselves will remove the rail, select the necessary repair kit, and restore problematic items that are not on sale. If the work described in the article seems complicated, entrust the repair of the rail to professionals.
In essence, all power steering rack and pinion mechanisms are the same. However, upon a more detailed study, some nuances can be distinguished. For example, the serration of the steering rod can be straight, angled, and variable pitch. We will not consider the advantages and disadvantages of each of the options within the framework of this material.
Our main focus today will be exclusively on the modern design of steering gears for passenger cars - rack and pinion. And the hydraulic amplifier installed in their considerable share is how much.
So, the principle of operation, as we have already found out, is the same: the rod moves in bushings installed in the steering gear housing and is sealed with oil seals. There are also rack and pinion mechanisms with a triangular shaft, as the masters call it. True, one and almost the only of its advantages can be called only the possibility of an earlier determination of wear. Otherwise, it has only drawbacks, the most significant of which is the impossibility of replacing the bushing and the stem oil seal without removing the power steering piston (we will return to this below).
The steering gear rod, regardless of the version, is pressed with a special stop, with the help of which the engagement clearance is adjusted. The pinion shaft of the steering gear is integral with the spool. The spool is a special bypass valve that, depending on which way you turn the steering wheel, redirects the flow of working fluid into the cavity to the right or left of the piston mounted on the steering gear rod, thereby helping you turn the steering wheel. This piston moves inside the cylinder, which is part of the body of the entire steering mechanism.
Separately, it is worth mentioning the ventilation inside the steering gear. The fact is that the anthers are quite tightly pressed against the steering rods and the steering gear housing, and therefore, when the rod moves in one of the anthers, a vacuum can be created, which, in turn, is fraught with accelerated wear of the anther itself or, even worse, dust suction or dirt from outside to the case. There are three design solutions to this problem: ventilation ducts in the steering gear rod, ventilation ducts in the steering gear housing, connected by a tube, and ventilation ducts in the anthers, which are also connected by a tube.
The main function of the steering rack (reducer) in the car device is to organize the rotation of the car. The steering rack is present in cars with power steering, as well as in those cars in which there is no power steering. It connects the steering wheel to the wheels, and therefore its role is very important for safe movement in the car. The diagnosis of this mechanism must be approached with the utmost responsibility, as well as repairs.
All cars are subject to rapid wear of steering parts, regardless of price and status, because it is these parts that take a hit at any turn, hitting an obstacle, hitting the wheels on bumps on the road.
To determine if your vehicle's steering needs repairs, look for the following signs of a malfunctioning mechanism:
there is clearly a knock on the steering rack, which is felt through the steering wheel of the car;
increased effort required to rotate the steering wheel;
there were extraneous sounds and noise in the power steering pump;
there was a backlash in the steering rack, which is felt when the steering wheel rotates;
power steering oil began to leak from the steering rack.
If any of these signs appear, do not delay repairing the steering rack. Untimely repair of steering parts can lead to loss of maintainability of the mechanism.
So, you have a steering rack leaking. What to do, how to make repairs and adjust the steering performance?
The steering rack mechanism consists of the following parts:
toothed shaft;
steering rack support sleeve;
spool mechanism.
Repairing a steering rack usually consists of several stages:
Dismantling, disassembling the steering rack and cleaning from the accumulation of all its parts.
Replacement of damaged parts of the mechanism with new parts.
Diagnostics of the toothed shaft of the steering rack.
Before starting repair work, you should get a special repair kit, which includes new parts for the steering rack (oil seals, steering rack bushing, ring seals, and others).
Drive the car into a hole or raise it with jacks.
Remove the engine protection (if you have one).
Remove the steering rack heat insulation plate.
Unscrew the fasteners on the steering rack.
Remove the rail from the mountings and pull it out of the interior of the car.
It is worth noting that it will be better for you to remove the steering rack along with the steering rods, because the new anthers will be much more convenient to pull on the special protrusions on the steering rods. This will help you to fit perfectly sealed anthers.
Unscrew the rack from the tie rods using a special flat head screwdriver.
Unscrew the lower plastic gear shaft plug.
Unscrew the lock nut.
Remove the retaining ring and gently knock the shaft out of its place.
Pull out the lower oil seal.
Tap out the locking pin that is blocking the upper oil seal.
Unscrew the retaining plug and pull the retaining ring out of the wire that will show up as you turn it.
Pull the steering rack out through the right side and remove the oil seal and plastic bushing from the rack.
Remove the oil seal and plug, pull out the spring and pressure mechanism.
Next, wash all parts from oil and dirt deposits and carefully inspect all parts for mechanical damage due to wear. All damaged parts must be replaced without fail. If the surface of the steering rack and the gears of the toothed shaft have significant damage, then most likely it will be necessary to replace the entire mechanism as a whole (how to replace the steering rack with a VAZ 2109, read in our material).
Carefully install the inner oil seal in its place, having lubricated it with a special grease (you need to put it through the right side with the spring down).
Place the rail into the housing.
Slide the plastic sleeve over the right gland, lubricate all parts with grease, and push the gland back into place by pushing something.
Install the plug and secure it with the retaining wire.
Place the lower oil seal on the toothed shaft.
Place the steering rack in the middle position.
Insert the toothed shaft into the seat after lubricating the seals with grease.
Gently push the upper oil seal into place, using a hammer to push it into place. Install the retaining ring.
Install the bottom lock nut, bearing, plug.
Install the hold-down mechanism, spring and plug. Tighten tight.
Then install the rail on the car in reverse order. Be sure to do “camber-convergence” after the procedure for repairing or replacing parts.
If any of these signs appear, do not delay repairing the steering rack. Untimely repair of steering parts can lead to loss of maintainability of the mechanism.
VIDEO
An innovative idea allows you to cheaply repair the steering rack with your own hands.Those who wish are given the opportunity to learn from experience and, using available materials, improve this part of the mechanism of their car.
This video provides information on the innovative idea and the use of materials at home when troubleshooting steering rack problems at home. A non-standard approach to eliminating extraneous sounds while driving, delights in its simplicity and results. This solution will allow you to forget about the knocking steering rack for a long time.
For everyone who wants to watch the original repair of the steering rack with their own hands, the video clip provides such an opportunity. Troubleshooting steps for the device that controls the movement of the wheels and the direction of the vehicle include:
unscrewing the bolts and squeezing out the clamps with the steering wheel unscrewed with a 22 mm spanner wrench;
removing the bushings and unscrewing the bolt on the steering column in the passenger compartment in the area of the pedals with a 14 mm wrench;
removing clamps from the steering rack and removing the device through the wheel;
releasing the steering rack from thin clamps using an awl and a thin screwdriver and an anther;
preparation of several pieces of plastic from watering cans, cans and other products to fill the free space between the metal rail body and the support sleeve. The size of the blanks must correspond to the length and width of the recess for the sleeve to move;
inserting blanks inside the steering rack until it stops against the bushing, among which the last element should be the most rigid;
checking the free movement of the sleeve over the plastic, tightly installed in the rack cavity;
installation of the steering rack in place.
This solution eliminates the knock of the support sleeve for a long period of time.
VIDEO
VIDEO
To make it easier for the driver to control the vehicle, in modern cars, a hydraulic booster is installed on the steering column. One of the main elements of this mechanism is a pump that pumps hydraulic fluid through the power steering system. During operation, it is exposed to heavy loads, therefore, it is periodically necessary to repair the power steering pump.
You can change this unit with your own hands. It is even possible to replace a failed bearing. In this case, the power steering pump repair kit will come in handy, which can be bought at any car store.
you need a key for "12", as well as heads for "14" and "24";
you will need a snap ring puller;
prepare in advance two copper washers, a gasket for the rear casing, two O-rings and an oil seal, they can be replaced by a power steering pump repair kit;
be sure to have a bearing marked "6202" and an outer diameter of 35 mm;
to pump oil out of the tank, you need a large syringe and a container;
clean the workbench and cover it with clean cardboard to disassemble the pump;
prepare fine sandpaper and a cleaning cloth.
In order to remove the power steering pump and repair it with your own hands, you need to perform the following steps.
Slightly loosen the axle bolt that secures the pump unit to the bracket using the hole in the pulley.Loosen the tensioner retaining nut completely and remove the belt.
Using a syringe, pump out the hydraulic fluid from the reservoir. Turn the steering wheel right and left until it stops so that the oil is completely out of the system, do this several times to completely clean the pipelines.
Loosen the clamp on the hose that runs from the expansion tank and remove this line.
Remove the bolt that secures the high pressure hose from the pump to the system.
Pull the released power steering pump unit up and put it in a specially prepared place. Remove dirt and oil from the unit housing.
Remove the bearing retaining ring with a puller.
Remove the rear cover mounting bolts. Gently pry it off with a small screwdriver and remove it, making sure that the rotor blades do not fall out of the housing.
Take out the blades and put them on pre-prepared numbered pieces of paper so as not to confuse anything during assembly. Attention! Remember the position of the assembled blades. When installed in a housing, the rounded part of these blades must be turned outward.
Remove the plate and all parts underneath.
Drive out the shaft by tapping gently with a screwdriver.
Press the bearing off the pump shaft.
Change the unusable bearing for a previously prepared one.
Check the parts of the pump set for defects and wear. Clean surfaces from dirt and roughness. Experts say - simple cleaning of internal parts reduces gaps and allows you to extend the operation of this unit without replacing any parts.
Reassemble in reverse order. It is imperative to change the oil seal, O-rings and washers for new ones prepared in advance.
If it is difficult for you to fix the power steering pump with your own hands or there is no time for this, then it is possible to replace the power steering pump with a new one. This will significantly reduce the repair time. Also watch a video on the topic:
VIDEO VIDEO
A very helpful article! And although I have a Hyundai H1 4 × 4 Starex 4WD, I think that these tips are very, very useful to me. My Gur is stuck (most likely - the bearing). Disassembled. As soon as I find a bearing and a repair kit for it, I will collect it. Wish I saw this article before. I had to suffer with unscrewing the return hose from the fitting. It was only necessary to put a wrench on the lower part of the fitting, and unscrew the upper one.
Very helpful article. I myself am now suffering with gur Ford EXP3 4.6. And howls and tight ... to sort out nodo ... There is already a mess in my head from studying and generally searching for information ....
Is it possible to repair the steering rack with your own hands on your own? The answer is given by a master with more than 20 years of experience, and he will answer this question. During his work, he had to repair the steering racks of all kinds of cars, from Mercedes to Lada.
The two most common steering rack faults are knocking and leaks. Both of these malfunctions are caused by mechanical wear, but if the cause of the rack leaks is the wear of the edges of the stuffing boxes sealing the rack housing, then the knocking is a consequence of the development of the engaging teeth of the rack rod and the steering shaft worm.
It is impossible to restore the teeth without welding metal onto the rail, which makes the elimination of knocking problematic. It is best to replace the stem, or even the entire rail assembly, as cracking and pitting may occur when welding metal. The leak is eliminated by replacing the faulty oil seal, which is a simple procedure in itself, but there are some nuances here.
A repair kit is always available, and it would seem that there is nothing easier than removing a part from it and replacing it with a worn one. But not everything is as simple as it seems.The fact is that the stem in the gland area is usually corroded, and newly installed glands will not last long, since the corroded stem will rub them like a float. When grinding the stem, corrosion is removed, but this operation will lead to a decrease in the diameter of the stem, and the standard parts from the repair kit may not fit the "loose" stem. It is possible that you will have to grind non-standard support bushings to the stem, or you will have to look for oil seals of other sizes.
Even with the ideality of the working parts of the stem, there are problems with disassembly and assembly. First, it is necessary to ensure sterility during assembly and to exclude dirt from entering the rail, which, although difficult, is realizable. But it is impossible to remove the inner oil seal from the depth of the rail without special tools, or you will have to reckon with the risk of damage to the inner surface of the case. It is almost impossible to buy a puller for removing the oil seal.
Difficulties arise when installing a new oil seal, there is a high probability of damage to it if it is improperly installed, as well as when disconnecting the low and high pressure hoses and performing other work. You can take a chance and try to do it yourself, but it is best to contact the service station, where they repair the rails. You can only replace torn or damaged anthers with your own hands. But here you can also encounter annoying "little things". It is difficult to get to the boot clamps with a tool, and inattention when installing and tightening the clamp will allow water and dirt to get inside the boot with quite predictable consequences. It is also not quite simple to install a ventilation tube in the boot, which is provided in the design of some rails to prevent damage to the anthers during their possible compression; any installation error also leads to the possibility of water and dirt penetration. And one more tip: plastic anthers are more reliable and more durable than rubber ones, that's why always buy only them; however, plastic clamps require more careful installation than rubber clamps.
If it makes no sense to repair the rail, sometimes they replace it with the used one found during the "disassembly". Such a decision is also associated with certain risks. You should immediately refuse to buy a rail with visible damage to the case. If the rack passes this check, then as far as possible, bend the dust covers or remove them completely, and inspect the rack shaft. The stem should be free of nicks, scratches and corrosion. When inspecting the stem, fully extend out of the body, first in one direction, then in the other. Sometimes it is possible to examine the teeth, but the condition of the extreme teeth is not indicative, since the central teeth wear out more - the extreme ones work only with a full eversion of the steering wheel, and the central ones are constantly in operation even on a straight section of the road.
Hydraulic fluid could remain in the rail, then, when viewed, it will flow out of the tube. If the liquid is cloudy or darkened, then there is little hope that the rubbing parts of the rack will be in a satisfactory condition, since the rubbing parts of the rack are lubricated by the liquid, and its turbidity due to the presence of wear products of the rack is a clear indication of wear. You should refuse to buy such a rail.
Repairing a product is always more expensive than timely prevention. Prevention of the rack includes three points, the first of which is to control the integrity of the anthers, which protect the rod from water and dirt, its corrosion and untimely wear of the oil seals. If the oil seals rupture, they must be replaced immediately. The second point - when a knock appears in the mechanism, you should immediately contact the service station repairing the rails, which will eliminate the progressive wear (development) of rack and worm teeth, and, accordingly, get along with low financial costs. The third point is control of the power steering fluid.The hydraulic booster fluid simultaneously serves as a rack and pinion lubricant, and the fluid must be replaced periodically, although in the operating instructions there is no requirement to replace the fluid indicating the frequency of the procedure, and the design does not even provide drain plugs.
Video (click to play).
Vitaly Mironov, AutoReika service station:
