Every car owner of Lada Kalina, sooner or later, will face the problem of failure and repair of the steering rack. Of course, experts and auto mechanics recommend changing this element, but not everyone can buy this element, so repair is the way out.
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The video material will tell you how to repair the steering rack, give basic recommendations and assembly features.
Steering rack repair kit
Before proceeding with the repair of the element, it is necessary to accurately determine that it was the steering rack that failed on the car. For this, there are indirect and direct signs that will point to the detail. Of course, it is best to carry out diagnostics at a specialized car service, but you can try with your own hands, for example, tighten the steering rack, but here you need to be careful.
So, consider the main signs of a steering rack malfunction:
When turning the steering wheel, there is a knock under the hood.
Longitudinal play of the steering wheel.
Increasing the effort when turning the steering wheel.
Oil stains under the car.
Steering wheel sticking when turning.
All these signs are direct in case of a malfunction of the steering rack, which will be the first bells that the element needs to be diagnosed and repaired.
General view of the steering
There are not many reasons for the failure of the steering rack, but they need to be known. Timely maintenance, as well as diagnostics of the assembly, can extend the life of the element.
Consider the main causes of steering rack malfunctions:
Depreciation of the elements that make up the rail.
Damage due to an accident when the impact fell on the wheel.
Other reasons that caused the rail to leak.
All these reasons become the reason for the repair of the steering assembly.
In order to repair the steering rack, you need to know its design and the elements that make up its composition. Consider the node design diagram:
Scheme-device steering rack
Steering rack details: 1 - rack bushing ring; 2 – rack support sleeve; 3 - crankcase of the steering mechanism; 4 - roller bearing; 5 - drive gear; 6 - ball bearing; 7 - retaining ring; 8 - protective washer; 9 - sealing ring; 10 - bearing nut; 11 - lock washer; 12 - anther; 13 - rail; 14 - protective cap; 15 - rail stop; 16 - sealing ring; 17 - retaining ring; 18 - stop nut; 19 - clamp; 20 - protective cover; 21 – an internal tip of steering draft; 22 - connecting plate; 23 - locking plate; 24 – a bolt of fastening of draft to a lath; A - a mark on the anther; B - mark on the crankcase
For restoration work related to the steering rack, a repair kit will be required. Usually, they are not found in specialized stores, and motorists, as a rule, go to the car market, where you can buy a set of spare parts. For the price, this is much cheaper than buying a new rail.
The steering rack repair kit can be purchased individually or as a complete set.
Steering rack repair kit made by Ricardo
2110-3403090-11 is the catalog number of the complete steering gear repair kit for Lada Kalina. Separately, bushings and plastic inserts can be purchased, but it is not recommended, since the quality of the products may be different, and, accordingly, the wear on the left and right sides may differ.
When all the materials for repairing the steering rack are collected and purchased, you can proceed directly to the repair operations.
Before you begin, you must completely clean the steering rack. This can be done manually, but it is best to use a pressurized steam mechanism, which will qualitatively remove dirt and dust from all elements without damaging the parts.
Now, we proceed to sequential operations to repair the steering rack:
We substitute the brake shoes under the rear wheels, and remove the hand brake.
We put the shoes under the wheels
Removing the coupling fixing bolt
Remove pins with pliers
Removing the tie rod ends with a hammer and crowbar
Disconnecting the EUR connector from the on-board network
Removing the steering rack mountings
We dismantle the steering rack through the wheel arch
We cut off the collars of the anther with the help of wire cutters
Dismantling the rack crankcase cover
We diagnose the condition of all products. Plastic and rubber parts will have to be replaced, it is also recommended to install a new boot and bearings.
Before assembly, clean all parts, lubricate the pinion shaft with lithol or other similar lubricant.
Let's start building:
Installing new bearings
We reduce the marks on the crankcase and rail so that the steering wheel is level
We put a new boot on the rail
Many automakers do not recommend steering rack repairs, but at the same time produce repair kits. So, in the AvtoVAZ repair manual, it is clearly stated that the failure of the VAZ 1117-1119 steering rack must be replaced with a new one.
Also, car enthusiasts and car steering repairmen recommend, after repairing the steering rack, after 1000-1500 km of run, tighten the threaded connections that could loosen due to vibration.
Auto repairmen recommend maintenance of this unit should be carried out every 10,000 km. It includes a visual inspection for smudges, checking the condition of the anthers, as well as tightening the connections.
As experience shows, repairing the Lada Kalina steering rack with electric power steering can be done with your own hands. Of course, this procedure will take a day, or maybe two. The main thing is not to rush and choose all the details of high quality and correct. It is recommended to install new bearings, because even if there is no play, it is not known how long it may appear.
Remove the steering linkage.
We unscrew the nut by striking the beard (right-hand thread).
We squeeze out with a screwdriver two clamps of the sleeve located inside the pipe.
Remove the two rubber o-rings from the bushing.
Steering rack bushing (arrows show bushing clamps) .
If it is necessary to replace the nut, use circlip pliers to open it.
We take out the rubber plug from the adjusting nut of the rail stop.
With a special key "24" with an external octagonal head, we unscrew the stop nut.
We take out the stop spring.
. remove the sealing ring.
By hitting the crankcase on a wooden block, we knock out the rail stop.
A rubber sealing ring is installed in the groove of the stop.
We remove the rubber ring from the crankcase, which seals the hole for the steering mechanism on the front panel.
Remove the boot from the gear shaft.
With a hexagon "on 6" we unscrew the two screws.
Remove the cage with thrust bearing rollers.
Remove the cover seal.
We take out the rail from the crankcase.
We press out the gear shaft by holding the shaft in a vice with soft metal jaw pads and pressing the crankcase with the mounting blade up.
We take out the gear shaft with the bearing from the crankcase.
. remove the retaining ring.
We take out the sleeve of the shaft-gear assembly with the base plate.
If it is necessary to replace the needle bearing with a drill d = 4 mm, we drill two diametrically located holes in the crankcase so that they go to the end face of the outer ring of the needle bearing.
Through the drilled holes with a rod of the appropriate diameter, we knock out the outer ring of the bearing from the crankcase.
With a puller, we press the ball bearing of the gear shaft with the inner ring of the roller thrust bearing.
With a puller, we press the inner ring of the needle bearing from the shaft.
Using a screwdriver, pry off and remove the gear shaft seal from the crankcase cover.
. scraper remove the extruded metal in four places and take out the ring.
Then we put the crankcase on the bearing.
. and press the crankcase with light hammer blows through a wooden block.
We press the oil seal of the gear shaft into the cover through the mandrel or head flush with the end face of the cover.
Repair rail manager on Lada Kalina in artisanal conditions - device, disassembly and adjustment
Hello fellow motorists! The happy owners of the new Lada Kalina do not even suspect that such a small city car holds a lot of secrets in total.
And suddenly, for some unknown reason, the venerable craftsmen of car services began to refuse the owners the request for adjustment, in other words, if repairs are needed steering rack Kalina.
Judging from the descriptions in the specialized literature, the control rail Lada Kalina does not differ at all in design from all previous front-wheel drive VAZ developments.
What is the reason for such behaviour? And another question that is imposed by the machine: it is curious for what reasons, on machines that have not even turned a small gap of time, it is already necessary to adjust the steering. Everything is in order.
The working parts of any, even the most reliable and most expensive car, inevitably become unusable and need to be replaced. What to say about Russian economical models such as Lada Kalina?
It has long been time to get used to the fact that repairs are a common condition for such cars. Regarding the control mechanism, it should be noted that although it is similar, as well as on other models, and tightening the control rail on Kalina is also often done, as well as on her brothers in the assembly line.
To find out the reason for the need to tighten the control rails on Kalina, you should remember the device of the control mechanism:
the control wheel through the column and flexible coupling transmits rotational motion to the drive gear;
the gear, having a movable connection with the rack, transmits rotational motion to it and forces it to move;
the ends of the control rods are attached to the rail, which turn the wheels.
An elementary-simple device, just like in countless cars. In all this design there is a very small detail that can only be found from the viewing hole - this is a pressing spring that regulates the force with which the rack is pressed against the gear.
VIDEO
Video that after all, in fact, how I repair steering racks and gimbals viburnum , Grant, Priora. Significantly worn out from the steering wheels.
The spring is made like a cone, but, during the period of operation, it rapidly loses its elasticity and the pressure force decreases. In this regard, you need to tighten the spring harder in order to return the desired force.
Lift steering rack on Kalina, it is done using a special key, but due to the design features of this particular model, the operation can be performed only by removing the rail from the machine.
Therefore, services without hunting take on this function. Works for 5 minutes, and with dismantling. fuss.
Relentlessly recommended to all car owners to make repairs steering reiki Kalina without the help of others, it is not so difficult, even more so if you need to tighten the spring for everything.
A knock on the control rail, in other words, an increase in the free play of the control wheel on Kalina, can be eliminated by turning a special key by 10-12 degrees, but in order to perform this second operation, the rail must be removed, adhering to this method:
the front of the car will fit suspended, which is done using a lift or by setting the car on the "tragus";
until the hands are dirty, we unscrew the bolt of the splined connection of the control column in the cabin. Doing this is not entirely comfortable, because the place is under the pedal block;
having removed the front wheels, unscrew the nuts of the steering knuckles and remove them;
preparation should also be made under the hood: remove the battery together with the platform and the heat reflector;
at the final step, we unscrew the nuts, the clamping fasteners of the rail to the body and remove the latter into the light of a snow-white day.
Having clamped the rack cover in a vice, you should try to move the rack by the "whiskers" to the right and to the left. If the free play is noticeable, in other words, the option to try tightening the spring nut, but by more than 10 degrees, then you should check again for free play.
This function must be continued until the free play disappears. It should be kept in mind that if the spring is pulled, then the steering wheel will turn unrealistically.
If during inspection (diagnosis) of the control rail, other malfunctions are detected, then a full-scale repair Lada Kalina with the replacement of all failed parts. Fantasy, there is no shortage in the assortment of repair kits for the control rail of Kalina.
Electric, used in city cars, because. under heavy loads, the electric motor often fails.
Mechanical, are used in cars less and less.
Hydraulic, a hydraulic pump is placed on these rails, which makes it easier to turn the steering wheel.
Steering rack-related malfunctions can be indicated by knocking when turning, and the effort required to turn the steering wheel also increases.
The condition of the steering rack is quite difficult to check due to its inaccessibility. To check the steering rack, you have to disassemble the entire steering mechanism.
Technologically, the repair of the Kalina steering rack differs little from the repair of this part on other VAZs. The necessary tools, if necessary, can be found in repair kits for other VAZ models.
VIDEO
It is necessary to unscrew the bolt securing the spitz mechanism.
Jack up the car first. You need to remove the front wheels. It is also necessary to knock out the steering tips from the steering knuckles.
Next, using a ratchet, you need to unscrew the steering gear mounting nuts.
remove the battery and pad from under it.
You need to unscrew the top nut on the heat-reflecting plate, it is located near the passenger seat, behind the exhaust manifold. fold back the plate.
We will immediately describe the process of installing the rail back:
It is better, of course, to work together, in this case one presses the rail, and the second attaches it to the steering shaft flange. If you are not lucky enough to work alone, then it is recommended to bait nuts to the body and press the rail with something.
When the splines of the shaft and the axis with the flange are aligned, you can begin to screw the rail. A ratchet is used in such cases, but do not use excessive force.
Next, we fasten the rods to the rail, the bolts with which the rods are screwed must be tightened quite strongly. A locking plate must be put on top to prevent the bolts from loosening.
VIDEO
Leakage in the input shaft seals usually affects French and Japanese cars. It occurs due to corrosion of the gland area.
This problem appears when water enters through the anthers of the rods.
Connectors often leak due to rubbing.
Due to the fact that the steering wheel remains in the center position most of the time, the vast majority of all loads occur on the central part of the rack.
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Support bushings are designed to centralize the shaft in the steering rack housing, when it is worn, the shaft begins to knock on the rack housing.
Over time, a sample is formed on the surface of the cracker and the gasket is erased. At the same time, the cracker begins to knock on the steering rack, dangling in its body.
This effect is observed when the hydraulic fluid is contaminated, inside the distributor, at the same time, grooves are formed.
There could be many reasons for this:
described above, grooves.
the Teflon ring on the piston could burst.
wear of the working pair could occur on the pump.
the torsion bar of the distributor could break.
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Bad roads. The steering rack may break due to long-term driving on bad roads. When driving on bad roads, you need to be especially careful so that when you hit pits or potholes, the steering wheel is not in the extreme position. If you do not follow this rule, the steering rack will very soon may start rattling .
You can damage the steering rack by making sharp accelerations and braking, with the steering wheel in the extreme position.
Also, frequent collisions with curbs can lead to damage to the steering rack.
The main signs of a breakdown can be rack knocks (in order to get rid of it, you can slow down), a tight steering wheel (often in one direction) also indicates a malfunction.
To repair the rack, you will need a 2110 steering rack repair kit. The main task is to replace the rack stop and bushing, this will get rid of play and rumble when overcoming small bumps.
For repair, it is useful to us: an emphasis and a sleeve of the rail, a sealing ring of the rail stop, an emphasis nut. You will also need a central corrugation, it is very likely that you will have to change it.
The rail may be rusty or extremely dirty inside, in which case it must be washed with diesel fuel or gasoline.
When you assemble the rail, you will have to actively lubricate it, in this regard, it is better to buy lubricant in advance, better FIOL.
After removing the rail, you need to cut off the clamps, you can not remove the clamp to the body, and remove the other with an elastic band. You can also remove the gasket, which is located at the point of contact of the rail and the hole in the motor shield.
After that, we begin to try to unscrew the stop nut, while a good wrench will come in handy. Next, we take out the spring, as well as the elastic band, turn it over with the hole down and bang it on some piece of wood to get the stop itself.
Next, we take out the old steering rack bushing. To do this, you need to bend two protrusions, and use a wire to pull the sleeve out of the housing.
After you get the rail, it must be washed, for this the same diesel fuel is suitable. Also, it must be cleaned of grease and dirt.
For perfect cleaning of the rail, it can be blown. In this case, you need to turn the worm shaft. This will blow the dirt out the back.
VIDEO After these procedures, you need to lubricate and assemble everything. Lubricate the worm shaft by turning.
Next, remove the sleeve from the rail and insert it into the housing, which was previously lubricated. Watch the locking tabs on the bushing.
It is necessary to tighten the bolt that secures the rods to the rail, place the body so that the bushing looks down, and put the rail on it.
We are looking for the middle of the window in the rail housing, we need to mark it, set the rail to the middle position. The center hole must be opposite your mark.
Next, we generously lubricate everything and install a new stop, sealant and spring, and tighten the stop nut.
Tighten the nut tightly with a wrench, after which, as in the instructions, we turn it in the opposite direction by 2 divisions. After installing the rack, the steering wheel may “get heavier”, but this is temporary.
We collect everything back, while trying not to leave unnecessary details.
Video (click to play).
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