In detail: do-it-yourself repair of the viburnum rail from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
The correctness of the steering system of any car is an important safety requirement on the road. Repair of the steering rack on Kalina must be done if any suspicious sounds appear. As practice shows, many motorists are calm about the fact that when the steering wheel is turned, a knock or creak occurs, and this may indicate that the steering rack is knocking. Repair of the steering rack on Kalina is best done at a service station, but you can do it yourself.
The steering system of the Lada Kalina includes an electric power amplifier and a steering column that is adjustable in height and tilt. The steering gear is a steering rack with a variable gear ratio. The rack engages with the engine crankcase through a gear with oblique teeth, the pitch of which differs along the length of the rack. The figure shows the design of the Kalina steering rack.
The steering rack on Kalina is pressed against the gear by a spring. Friction is reduced with a plastic liner. The compression of the spring is changed by an adjusting nut (the factory-set gap between the rack and the shaft is 0.1 mm). The second end of the rail rests against the plastic sleeve. Gap adjustment helps to eliminate knocking.
Video (click to play).
The steering system shaft is mounted in bearings (one in the column bracket, the other in the power steering housing). The column bracket attaches to the pedal bracket (front) and to the body bracket. The column bracket with the pipe is connected in the form of a hinge of two plates, which allows you to change the position of the rudder, and the range of movement is limited by the slots in the plates.
To fix the position of the pipe, there is a lever connected to an adjusting sleeve. It is screwed into a tie bolt located in the plate slots. When you turn the lever, the bushing rotates, loosening the plate fixation, which allows you to change the position of the steering wheel. The springs between the plates and the bracket pull the pipe upward as the fastener is loosened.
The steering system of the Lada Kalina has two tie rods and swing arms. The rod consists of an external and an internal tip and an adjusting threaded sleeve, which, when rotated, changes the length of the rod. The required adjustment of the rods is fixed with bolts. The rod is connected to the pivot arm via an external ball-type end piece.
Kalina's electric amplifier reduces the effort applied to the steering wheel. It is assembled on the basis of an electric motor with a gearbox located under the steering wheel cover. The amplifier is controlled by an electronic unit that receives signals from sensors for vehicle speed, shaft rotation and steering torque.
The principle of operation of the amplifier is based on the fact that in the stationary state of the car, the moment on the steering shaft is set to the greatest, and when driving, it decreases with increasing speed. The power steering indicator is installed on the dashboard.
Situations often arise when, when you turn the steering wheel of the Lada Kalina, you can hear something knocking and rattling. Such extraneous sounds can be heard constantly or appear after a long stay.If something rattles in the steering gear, then you should find out the causes of these noises. They are often caused by wear on the ball joint. Such a defect can lead to the impossibility of traffic, and the part will need to be replaced in a timely manner.
The cause of a knock or squeak of the steering wheel is sometimes damage to the grenade. If the steering racks are malfunctioning, in addition to knocking, there is a kickback of the steering wheel or signs of a biting steering wheel appear. In this case, the steering rack will need to be adjusted or repaired, and possibly replaced. Noises appear when the shock absorber bush is worn. The knock may be due to the loosening of the bolts securing the crankcase.
The design of the Kalina steering system is such that tightening the steering rack, adjusting the spring can be done only after removing the rack. It is removed in the following order. Raises the front of the vehicle using a lift or tragus. From the side of the passenger compartment, the bolt of the spline fastening of the steering column is turned out.
The attachment point is located below the pedal box. The front wheels of the car are removed. Then the nuts of the rotary cams are unscrewed and removed. The battery is removed from under the hood together with the platform. The heat reflector is removed. Finally, the nuts securing the steering rack to the body are unscrewed. After that, the rail can be pulled out.
When disassembling, adjusting and repairing the Kalina steering rack, you will need the following tool:
a special key for regulating the VAZ rail;
dial gauge indicator;
screwdriver, pliers, socket and wrench set;
hammer;
mallet;
steering tip puller;
calipers;
chisel;
brush.
Any extraneous sounds when turning the steering wheel should alert the driver. It is necessary to immediately find out the reasons for their appearance. Repairing and adjusting the Kalina steering rack can improve road safety.
Very often the cause of knocking when turning the steering wheel is a weakening of the pressure spring. It provides the required force of pressing the steering rack gear to the main shaft gear, which is set at the factory by adjusting and fixing the spring. In the process of using the vehicle, the spring loses its elasticity, relaxes.
In order to increase the pressing force of the spring, it is necessary to tighten it, which is done after disconnecting the steering mechanism, but without removing the steering rack. Repair of the steering rack in this case consists in setting the required clearance between the rack and the shaft gear. The steering rack is set in the middle position and is fixed against movement.
The plug is removed from the rubber, and the indicator probe is placed in the hole of the stop adjusting nut so that it touches the rail stop. It is better to use a dial indicator. Then, turning the pinion shaft, which pushes the stop, the indicator measures the size of the stop movement. The travel length should not exceed 0.05 mm.
If an excess of this value is observed, then it is eliminated by turning the adjusting nut. The steering rack is fixed in a position corresponding to the required clearance, and the ease of rotation of the pinion shaft is checked within the entire possible movement of the rack.
The adjusting nut is rotated using a special key to adjust the VAZ steering racks. It is not recommended to tighten the nut too tight, which can negatively affect the maximum turns of the steering wheel. If there is any play when turning the steering wheel, the spring can be tightened by practical selection of the correct force.
In this case, initially the adjusting nut is turned by 20-25 °, and the presence of knocking is checked when turning the rack. If the noise is not eliminated, then the nut is tightened again by 10-15 °, and so on until the knock is eliminated. In the case when tightening the spring does not help, repair of the steering rack is required.
It is best to adjust the Kalina electric amplifier after removing the steering rack, but it can be done without dismantling with some inconvenience. The car is placed on the repair pit so that the front of the amplifier is accessible from below.
The clamping nut is tightened by turning it clockwise from the bottom, and when tightening the nut from above, respectively, counterclockwise. For the purpose of prevention, the condition of the oil seal should be checked, since when the steering wheel is turned out strongly, the oil seals wear out quickly. At the same time, all elements are lubricated, especially the anthers of the steering rods.
If repair of the steering rack is required, then it begins with its disassembly. During the repair, a steering rack repair kit is used. Disassembly is carried out in a specific order. To begin with, the adjusting nut is unscrewed, which sometimes requires significant effort. Then the thrust sleeve is removed.
If it is difficult to remove it, you can use a mallet to lightly hit the rail body. The side plugs and boot are removed after cutting off the plastic fasteners. It is recommended to replace the boot for prophylaxis with a new one in any case. The shaft is removed from the rack housing by hitting the housing with a mallet.
Steering rack details: 1 - rack bushing ring; 2 - support sleeve of the rail; 3 - steering gear housing; 4 - roller bearing; 5 - drive gear; 6 - ball bearing; 7 - retaining ring; 8 - protective washer; 9 - a sealing ring; 10 - bearing nut; 11 - lock washer; 12 - anther; 13 - rail; 14 - protective cap; 15 - rail stop; 16 - sealing ring; 17 - retaining ring; 18 - stop nut; 19 - clamp; 20 - protective cover; 21 - inner tip of the tie rod; 22 - connecting plate; 23 - lock plate; 24 - bolt for fastening the rod to the rail; A - a mark on the boot; B - mark on the crankcase
Inside the freed cavity of the case, a plastic sleeve will become noticeable, which is removed with a screwdriver. It must be replaced with a new one from the repair kit. All old grease is removed from the cavity of the steering rack housing; the surface is thoroughly cleaned, washed and blown out.
New grease is applied both inside the housing and outside. For this purpose, lithol is used. Particular attention should be paid to the lubrication of the areas of the gearing. All rail parts are inspected and, if necessary, replaced with new ones from the repair kit. If the steering wheel becomes jammed, it must be removed. This operation for Lada Kalina is carried out as follows.
First, the airbags are disconnected from the battery, their locks and latches are loosened. The pillows are released and slid to the side. The two horn wires are disconnected. On the shaft of the steering wheel, in the place marked by the arrow, a mark is made for the location of the steering wheel before it is removed.
The steering nut is loosened (but not completely unscrewed). When rocking the steering wheel from side to side, it is pulled up to the stop in the nut. Then you should align the wheels of the car and ensure that the steering wheel is straight. The pin is removed and inserted into the switch block below the steering wheel.
The steering wheel must be fixed at this time. Next, the wires are removed and the steering wheel is pulled out. All elements are checked and lubricated. The steering wheel assembly is carried out in the reverse order.
Each car owner of Lada Kalina, sooner or later, will face the problem of failure and repair of the steering rack. Of course, experts and auto mechanics recommend changing this element, but not everyone can afford to buy this element, so repair is a way out.
Video about repairing the steering rack on Lada Kalina:
The video material will tell you how to repair the steering rack, give basic recommendations and assembly features.
Steering rack repair kit
Before proceeding with the repair of an element, it is necessary to accurately determine that it is the steering rack that has failed on the car. For this, there are indirect and direct signs that will indicate the detail. Of course, it is best to carry out diagnostics at a specialized car service, but you can try with your own hands, for example, tighten the steering rack, but here you need to proceed carefully.
So, let's consider the main signs of a malfunction of the steering rack:
When you turn the steering wheel, a knock appears under the hood.
Longitudinal rudder play.
Increased steering effort.
Oil spots under the machine.
Steering wheel sticking when cornering.
All these signs are direct in case of malfunction of the steering rack, which will be the first bells that the element needs to be diagnosed and repaired.
General view of the steering
There are not many reasons for the failure of the steering rack, but you need to know them. Timely maintenance, as well as diagnostics of the unit can extend the life of the element.
Consider the main causes of steering rack malfunctions:
Deterioration of the elements that make up the rail.
Accident damage when a wheel is struck.
Other reasons that led to the fact that the rake began to leak.
All these reasons become the reason for repairing the steering assembly.
In order to repair the steering rack, you need to know its design and the elements that make up it. Consider the node design diagram:
Steering rack diagram
Steering rack details: 1 - rack bushing ring; 2 - support sleeve of the rail; 3 - steering gear housing; 4 - roller bearing; 5 - drive gear; 6 - ball bearing; 7 - retaining ring; 8 - protective washer; 9 - a sealing ring; 10 - bearing nut; 11 - lock washer; 12 - anther; 13 - rail; 14 - protective cap; 15 - rail stop; 16 - sealing ring; 17 - retaining ring; 18 - stop nut; 19 - clamp; 20 - protective cover; 21 - inner tip of the tie rod; 22 - connecting plate; 23 - lock plate; 24 - bolt for fastening the rod to the rail; A - a mark on the boot; B - mark on the crankcase
For restoration work related to the steering rack, a repair kit is required. Usually, they cannot be found in specialized stores, and motorists, as a rule, go to the car market, where they can purchase a set of spare parts. For the price it is much cheaper than buying a new rail.
The steering rack repair kit can be purchased individually or as an assembly.
Repair kit for Ricardo steering rack
2110-3403090-11 is the catalog number of the complete steering gear repair kit for Lada Kalina. Separately, bushings and plastic inserts can be purchased, but it is not recommended, since the quality of the products may be different, and, accordingly, the wear on the left and right sides may differ.
When all the materials for repairing the steering rack have been collected and purchased, you can proceed directly to the repair operations.
Before starting, the entire steering rack must be cleaned. This can be done manually, but it is best to use a pressurized steam mechanism, which will remove dirt and dust from all elements efficiently without damaging the parts.
Now, we proceed to the sequential operations for repairing the steering rack:
We substitute the brake shoes under the rear wheels and remove the handbrake.
Putting the shoes under the wheels
Removing the coupling fixing bolt
We take out the cotter pins with pliers
Removing the tie rod ends with a hammer and crowbar
Disconnecting the EUR connector from the on-board network
Removing the steering rack mounts
Dismantle the steering rack through the wheel arch
We cut off the clamps of the anther using nippers
Dismantle the rack housing cover
We diagnose the condition of all products. The plastic and rubber parts will have to be replaced and a new boot and bearings are recommended.
Before assembly, it is necessary to clean all the parts, lubricate the rack and pinion shaft with lithol or other similar grease.
We start assembling:
Installing new bearings
We bring the marks on the crankcase and rail so that the steering wheel is level
We put on a new boot on the rail
Many car manufacturers do not recommend repairing the steering rack, but at the same time they produce repair kits. So, in the repair manual for AvtoVAZ, it is clearly stated that the failure of the VAZ 1117-1119 steering rack must be replaced with a new one.
Also, motorists and car steering repairmen recommend after repairing the steering rack, after 1000-1500 km of run, tighten the threaded connections that could loosen due to vibration.
Motorists recommend that maintenance of this unit should be carried out every 10,000 km. It includes a visual inspection for leaks, checking the condition of the anthers, and tightening the connections.
As experience shows, repairing the Lada Kalina steering rack with an electric power steering can really be done with your own hands. Of course, this procedure will take a day, maybe two. The main thing is not to rush and choose all the quality and correct parts. It is recommended to install new bearings, because even if there is no play, it is not known after how long it may appear.
Remove the steering rod support. We insert the barb into the groove of the crankcase pipe fastening nut.
We unscrew the nut, striking the beard (right-hand thread).
Use a screwdriver to squeeze the two retainers of the sleeve located inside the pipe.
If it is necessary to replace the nut, open it with pliers to remove the circlip. ... and remove the retaining ring .. Remove the pipe fastening nut.
We take out the rubber plug from the adjusting nut of the rail stop. With a scraper, remove the jammed metal in the places where the stop adjusting nut is locked.
Unscrew the stop nut with a special “24” wrench with an external octagonal head.
We take out the stop spring. Prying off with a screwdriver.
... remove the O-ring.
By hitting the crankcase on a wooden block, we knock out the rail stop. Prying off with a screwdriver.
A rubber sealing ring is installed in the stop groove.
Remove the rubber ring from the crankcase that seals the hole for the steering gear on the bulkhead.
Remove the boot from the gear shaft.
Unscrew the two screws with a hexagon "6".
Remove the cage with thrust bearing rollers.
Remove the cover O-ring.
We take out the rack from the crankcase.
We press out the pinion shaft by clamping the shaft in a vice with soft metal jaws and pressing the crankcase up with a mounting blade.
We take out the gear shaft with the bearing from the crankcase. Pry off with a screwdriver ..
... remove the bushing retaining ring.
We take out the pinion shaft sleeve assembly with a base plate.
If it is necessary to replace the needle bearing with a d = 4 mm drill, drill two diametrically located holes in the crankcase so that they go to the end of the needle bearing outer ring.
Through the drilled holes, we knock out the outer ring of the bearing from the crankcase with a rod of the appropriate diameter.
Using a puller, we press the ball bearing of the pinion shaft with the inner ring of the roller thrust bearing.
Using a puller, we press the inner ring of the needle bearing from the shaft.
Use a screwdriver to pry on and remove the gear shaft oil seal from the crankcase cover. If necessary, replace the outer ring of the thrust roller bearing.
... with a scraper, remove the extruded metal in four places and take out the ring. Liberally grease the bearings, rack teeth and gears, the plastic bushing of the rack with Fiol-1 grease. Assemble the steering gear in reverse order. Press the outer ring of the needle bearing into the crankcase with a mandrel of a suitable diameter.Fast steel or cold welding can be used to seal the holes in the crankcase. We press the pinion shaft with a ball bearing into the crankcase with a piece of pipe of a suitable diameter or a high head, applying force to the outer ring of the bearing. You can press the pinion shaft into the crankcase by resting the outer bearing ring on the vise jaws.
Then we put the crankcase on the bearing.
... and press on the crankcase with light hammer blows through a wooden block.
We press the gear shaft oil seal into the cover through the mandrel or the head flush with the end face of the cover. We insert the rail into the steering gear housing. Installing the pipe Turn the pinion shaft so that the flat on it is located on the right side. We move the rail so that the steering rod support, installed on the rail, is located in the middle of the pipe groove. Insert the rail stop, the stop spring and tighten the stop nut. It is recommended to replace the stop nut with a new one. By adjusting the clearance in the meshing of the gear with the rack (see "Design Description").
Repair control rail on Lada Kalina in artisanal criteria - device, disassembly and adjustment
Hello, honored motorists! The happy owners of the new Lada Kalina do not even suspect that Such a small city car is fraught with a lot of secrets.
And suddenly, the venerable craftsmen of car services, for some unknown reason, began to deny owners a request for adjustment, in other words, if repairs are needed steering rack Kalina.
Judging from the descriptions in the special literature, the control rail Lada Kalina does not differ at all in design from all previous front-wheel drive VAZ developments.
What is the reason for this behavior? And another question that is imposed by the automatic machine: it is curious, for what reasons, on cars that have not even reached a small gap of time, it is already necessary to adjust the steering. Everything is in order.
The working parts of any, even the most reliable and most expensive car, inevitably deteriorate and need to be replaced. What to say about Russian economical models like Lada Kalina?
It has long been time to get used to the fact that repair is a common condition for such cars. Regarding the control mechanism, it should be noted that although it is similar, as well as on other models, the tightening of the control rail on Kalina is also done quite often, as well as on its brothers in the assembly flow.
To find out the reason for the need to tighten the control rail on Kalina, you should remember the control mechanism device:
the control wheel through the column and the flexible coupling transmits the rotational movement to the drive gear;
the gear, having a movable connection with the rack, transfers it a rotational movement and forces it to move;
the ends of the control rods are attached to the rail, which turn the wheels.
Elementary and simple device, just like in countless cars. In this whole structure there is a very small detail that can only be found from the inspection pit - this is a pressure spring, which regulates the force with which the rack is pressed against the gear.
Video that is, in fact, how I repair steering racks and cardan Viburnum, Grant, Priora. Much worn out with the steering wheel.
The spring is made of the type of a cone, but during the period of operation it rapidly loses its elasticity and the pressure force decreases. In this regard, it is necessary to clamp the spring harder in order to return the required force.
Facelift steering rack on Kalina it is done using a special key, but due to the design features of this particular model, the operation can be performed only by removing the rail from the machine.
Therefore, on services without hunting they take up this function. Work for 5 minutes, but with dismantling. fuss.
It is strongly recommended that all car owners make repairs. steering Kalina slats without the help of others, it is not so difficult, even more so if you need to tighten the spring for everything.
A knock on the control rail, in other words, an increase in the free wheeling of the control wheel on Kalina happens to be eliminated by turning a special key by 10-12 degrees, but in order to perform this one-second operation, the rail should be removed, adhering to this method:
the front of the car will fit suspended, which is done using a lift or by setting the car on the "tragus";
until your hands are dirty, unscrew the spline bolt of the control column in the cabin. It is not completely comfortable to do this, because the place is under the pedal unit;
removing the front wheels, unscrew the steering knuckle nuts and remove them;
preparation should also be carried out under the hood: remove the battery together with the platform and the heat reflector;
at the final step, we unscrew the nuts, clamping fasteners of the rail to the body and remove the last one into the light of a snow-white day.
Having clamped the rack cover in a vice, you should try to move the rack by the "mustache" to the right and to the left. If the free play is noticeable, in other words, the option to test tighten the spring nut, but already by more than 10 degrees, then you should again check for the presence of free play.
This function must be continued until the free play is lost. It should be kept in mind that if you overtighten the spring, the steering wheel will turn unrealistic.
If, during inspection (diagnostics) of the control rail, other malfunctions are revealed, then a full-scale repair Lada Kalina with the replacement of all failed parts. Fantasy, there is no shortage of repair kits for the Kalina control rail.
The steering rack (steering gear) transfers the power from the steering wheel to the wheels through the rods. The tie rod is one of the main parts of the steering. There are three types of steering racks:
Electric, used in city cars, because under heavy loads, the electric motor often fails.
Mechanical, used in cars less and less.
Hydraulic, a hydraulic pump is placed on these rails, which makes it easier to turn the steering wheel.
Faults associated with the steering rack can be indicated by knocking when cornering, and the effort required to turn the steering wheel also increases.
It is rather difficult to check the condition of the steering rack due to its inaccessibility. To check the steering rack, you have to disassemble the entire steering gear.
Technologically, the repair of the Kalina steering rack differs little from the repair of this part on other VAZs. The necessary tools, if necessary, can be found in the repair kits of other VAZ models.
It is necessary to unscrew the securing bolt of the spitz mechanism.
Having previously lifted the car on a jack. You need to remove the front wheels. It is also necessary to knock out the steering tips from the steering knuckles.
Next, using a ratchet, you need to unscrew the steering gear mounting nuts.
remove the battery and the platform from under it.
You need to unscrew the top nut on the heat reflecting plate, it is located near the passenger seat, behind the exhaust manifold. bend over the plate itself.
Let's immediately describe the process of installing the rail back:
Better, of course, to work together, in this case one presses the rack, and the second attaches it to the steering shaft flange. If you are unlucky enough to work alone, then it is recommended to add nuts to the body and press the rail with something.
When the splines of the shaft and the axle with the flange are aligned, you can start screwing the rail. A ratchet wrench is used in such cases, but do not use excessive force.
Next, we screw it to the traction rail, the bolts with which the traction is screwed must be tightened sufficiently. It is necessary to put on a lock plate on top to prevent the bolts from loosening.
Leakage in the seals of the input shaft usually affects French and Japanese cars. It occurs due to corrosion of the stuffing box area.
2. Leaking power seals, and corrosion of the steering column shaft
This problem appears when water enters through the anthers of the rods.
Connectors often leak due to rubbing.
Due to the fact that the steering wheel remains in the center position most of the time, the vast majority of all loads fall on the center of the rack.
Support sleeves are designed to centralize the shaft in the steering rack housing; when it wears out, the shaft starts knocking against the rack housing.
Over time, a sample forms on the surface of the biscuit and the gasket is erased. At the same time, the cracker begins to knock on the steering rack, dangling in its housing.
This effect is observed when the hydraulic fluid is dirty, inside the distributor, while grooves are formed.
There may be many reasons:
the grooves described above.
the Teflon ring on the piston could have burst.
wear of the working pair could have occurred on the pump.
the distributor torsion bar could break.
Bad roads. The steering rack can break due to long-term driving on bad roads. When driving on bad roads, you need to be especially careful so that when you hit holes or bumps, the steering wheel is not in the extreme position. If you do not follow this rule, the steering rack very soon may start knocking.
It is possible to damage the steering rack by making sharp accelerations and decelerations, with the extreme position of the steering wheel.
Also, frequent collisions with curbs can lead to damage to the steering rack.
The main signs of a breakdown can be the knocking of the rail (in order to get rid of it, you can slow down), and a tight steering wheel (often in one direction) also indicates a malfunction.
Repairing a steering rack is not the easiest thing to do. Removing and installing the rail is very laborious; some difficult points must be mentioned in advance. This is, for example, where the rack connects to the steering column.
To repair the rack, you will need a steering rack repair kit 2110. The main task is to replace the rack stop and bushing, this will get rid of backlash and rumble when overcoming small bumps.
For repairs, we need: the stop and the rail bushing, the rail stop O-ring, the stop nut. You will also need a center rib, it is very likely that you will need to change it.
Before unscrewing, we moisten the studs for fastening the rail with a "wedge", otherwise they can be unscrewed. Always be aware of the dangers of collapsing these pins! Otherwise, you will have to drill the engine compartment cover!
The rack can be rusty or extremely dirty inside, in which case it must be rinsed with diesel fuel or gasoline.
When you assemble the rail, it will have to be actively lubricated, in this regard, it is better to buy lubricant in advance, preferably FIOL.
Having removed the rail, you need to cut off the clamps, the clamp of attachment to the body can not be removed, and the other is removed with an elastic band. You can also remove the gasket, which is located at the point of contact between the rail and the hole in the motor shield.
Next, you need to remove the anthers. Soak the stop nut in kerosene and remove the worm shaft. If this fails, you can try to lubricate everything inside without completely disassembling it.
After that, we begin to try to unscrew the stop nut, while a good wrench will come in handy. Next, we take out the spring, as well as the rubber band, turn it over with the hole down and pound it on some piece of wood to get the stop itself.
Next, we take out the old steering rack bushing. To do this, you need to bend two protrusions, and with the help of a wire, pull the sleeve out of the body.
After you take out the rail, it must be rinsed; the same diesel fuel is suitable for this. Also, it must be cleaned of grease and dirt.
For perfect cleaning of the rail, it can be blown out. In this case, you need to turn the worm shaft. This will blow out the dirt from the back.
After these procedures, you need to lubricate and collect everything. Lubricate the worm shaft by turning.
It is necessary to grease the toothed part abundantly, because here is the main friction. Next, we lubricate the ends of the rail, lubricating it, check how it dresses, only if this happens with some effort, it will stop making noise.
Next, we remove the bushing from the rail and insert it into the case, which has been lubricated in advance. Pay attention to the retaining lugs on the bushing.
It is necessary to tighten the bolt attaching the rods to the rail, place the body so that the bushing faces downward, and place the rail on it.
We are looking for the middle of the window in the rail body, it needs to be marked, we set the rail in the middle position. Make sure the center hole is opposite your mark.
Next, we grease everything abundantly and install a new stop, seal and spring, and tighten the stop nut.
Tighten the nut tightly with a wrench, after which, as in the instructions, set it in the opposite direction by 2 divisions. After installing the rack, the steering wheel may become "heavy", but this is temporary.
Putting everything back together, while trying not to leave unnecessary details.