Do-it-yourself passat b5 rail repair

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of the Passat B5 rail from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

The work procedure is applicable for cars:

Volkswagen Passat B5 / Volkswagen Passat B5 (3B2) 1997 - 2001
Volkswagen Passat Variant B5 / Volkswagen Passat Variant B5 (3B5) 1997 - 2001

Volkswagen Passat B5.5 / Volkswagen Passat B5.5 (3B3) 2001 - 2005
Volkswagen Passat Variant B5.5 / Volkswagen Passat Variant B5.5 (3B6) 2001 - 2005

Oil flowed sharply from the rail on the right side from under the boot. Exist does not give a repair kit, but a new one bites.
It was decided to remove and see how and what is there.

We remove the battery, we see one of the three bolts, fastening the rail (all three are 12 beam by 10)

The second bolt is located in the area of the vacuum cleaner

And the third is invisible from nowhere, you can only feel it with your hands from the engine compartment. It is twisted on the other side. Next, remove the right wheel, disconnect the steering rod from the fist and remove the plastic cover

Everything on the right, on the left we do the same procedure

and for further convenience we disconnect both upper levers. There, in the distance (poorly visible), two bolts for fastening the hoses - on the left at 22, on the right at 19. Unscrewed with spanners, here they are

We wash our hands and move to the salon. Remove the steering column plastic

We see a nut at 17, on the other side a torx 55. Unscrew the nut, and slightly turn the bolt counterclockwise and take it out (eccentric bolt). Disconnect the crosspiece from the rail (pull off). Here, too, everything. Smoke break.

We go under the hood and unscrew the rail mount, starting with 1 bolt (first photo). Then you need to collect a long shnyaga through 2 cardan shafts and drive this partner, tired of idleness, under the car. I groped my hands to the bolt that was from the inside, and he twisted it. Well, the last bolt near the vacuum cleaner. We take out the rail from the left side.

Video (click to play).

There she is.
The rail turned out to be Koyo 8D1 422 052

We assemble in the reverse order, having previously spent a lot of money on a new rail.

There was the same ambush on the VW T4, they also said that there was no repair kit, and the guys from the spare parts store in the market said that there was, but they did not know where they had it. I got these guys so tired of the questions that they rummaged around and called me personally, though they gave me a repair kit for 4200 rubles.

The kit itself included all the oil seals, Teflon rings, retaining rings, rubber rings, and even a new nut that tightens the steering worm! In general, a complete set for the bulkhead rail. Everything was marked ZF. It got up like a native. The shaft must be polished (sinks, seizures). Defects on the shaft appear due to an inaccurate replacement of the steering rods (dirt gets under the corrugation and does its job). In general, I went over the rail then, and it seems to still go (I sold the car 2 years ago).

Particular attention must be paid to cleanliness when disassembling this mechanism, especially when you begin to remove the shaft. There, the inner surface of the rack body (it is also the working compartment) is polished to a mirror and when knocking out the internal oil seals, you can leave scratches on it, which in turn will lead to fluid bypassing from one cavity to another and, accordingly, to poor operation of the rail. All instruments and accessories should be almost sterile)))). And so there is nothing like that inside.

P.S. under conditions of a bulkhead in a specialized production, they give a guarantee up to 2 years, and they sort out (read, grind the shaft) up to 10 times.
For picking rails: by the way, the oil seals are of common sizes, I saw these in the stuffing box stall, the size can be chosen 1 in 1, but it is not known what conditions they are designed for, suddenly they will not cope with the pressure

If you didn’t find information on your car, look at the cars built on the platform of your car.
With a high degree of probability, the information on repair and maintenance will be suitable for your car as well.

Before the car appeared in 1996

Passat B5 Volkswagen was considered a car manufacturer exclusively for the middle class. But the B5 has turned the usual idea of Volkswagen, becoming the first premium car and, perhaps, the best in the entire Passat line.

Its powerful engine, luxurious interior trim and elegant looks have made this car one of the best-selling Volkswagens, second only to the legendary Beetle.

This car was created on the basis of the equally popular Audi A4 - from it he took many elements of the chassis, including many components of the steering, which is based on the rack.

The steering rack of the Volkswagen Passat B5 consists of the following components:

tips and tie rods - parts that directly contact the front wheels and rotate them;
a toothed bar (or the rack itself) - moving left and right, depending on the direction of rotation, it moves the tips;
control gear - it is rigidly fixed on the steering shaft and, rotating simultaneously with it, by means of a gear transmission, converts its rotational movement into the translational movement of the bar;
spring - ensures the tightness of the toothed connection;
ball bearings - with their help, the tips are connected to the rail;
limiters - are used to determine the maximum angle of rotation of the front wheels of the car.

Another component of the rack is the power steering (GUR). It multiplies the force applied by the driver to the steering wheel, thereby providing additional driving comfort. Power steering also compensates for vibration arising from uneven road surfaces and transmitted through the steering column.

All possible malfunctions of the rack can be conditionally divided into two groups: malfunctions of the mechanical part and malfunctions of the hydraulic booster. Most of the latter manifests itself in the form of partial or complete leakage of the power steering fluid, either through worn out oil seals and tubes, or due to the destruction of the cylinders. In the first case, power steering repair consists in replacing worn out oil seals. For this, there is a so-called repair kit, consisting of all rubber parts through which fluid can flow.

If the "drip" itself

cylinder, then, most likely, the master will offer you to completely replace the power steering. A cylinder cracked or deformed as a result of mechanical damage cannot be restored, but it is sold only in a set with all power steering. In addition, if your B5 is of considerable age, then the power steering of the same model may not be found.

Fortunately, all power steering installed on the Passat B5 are interchangeable.

The situation with breakdowns of the mechanical component of the rail is somewhat more complicated. First of all, this is backlash.

To be fair, it should be said that backlash is the scourge of all mechanisms. It arises as a result of wear of parts in the process of friction. Over time, their geometry changes, and between, for example, the teeth of the rack and the control gear, there is a free space (by the way, the word "backlash" is translated from German as air). At an early stage, you can remove the backlash by tightening the spring - it is intended for this. But it is impossible to drag it out indefinitely - sooner or later the moment will come when the worn out parts will require replacement. Actually, the repair of the VW Passat B5 steering rack consists in replacing worn-out parts with new ones.

Much harder to define

the node in which the backlash has formed. The diagnostic procedure, which is carried out in several stages by two specialists, will help to answer this question. The car is installed on a lift so that nothing interferes with the free rotation of its front wheels. While one master rotates the steering wheel from one extreme position to another, the second monitors the turning of the wheels. This determines the value of the total backlash, which is the sum of the backlashes of all movable joints of the rail elements. If in the process of turning the wheels an extraneous sound is heard - a knock or crackle - this indicates deformation or breakdown of one or more parts of the mechanism.

Which parts are out of order, in which nodes there are backlashes - the master will be able to determine this only after disassembling the mechanism and cleaning its components from contamination.

When the cause of the breakdown is established and the failed parts are replaced, it is the turn of the next procedure - adjusting the steering rack. It is carried out on a special stand that simulates operating conditions for the vehicle's steering system. Here the wizard sets the exact angle of rotation of the tips depending on the rotation of the steering wheel. Adjustment of the lug wheel assembly is carried out after the rack is installed on the vehicle.

High-quality repair of the Volkswagen B5 steering rack is possible only in a car service, where all the necessary equipment and spare parts for Volkswagen are available, which may be required during the repair process.

The main control element of the vehicle is the steering rack. The part is responsible for the movement of the wheels of the car, acting as a conductor of the power impulse from the steering column to the wheels. Consider how the repair of the Passat B5 steering rack is carried out.

The steering rack differs in several types, it can be mechanical and hydraulic. The mechanical system was installed in domestic cars and was later replaced by a more advanced hydraulic system. Later, a third type of rail was developed - an electric one, the main element of which is a motor that performs the main work. The EUR is not widely used by motorists due to the higher cost and complexity of the mechanism, which is difficult to repair.

The steering rack of the Passat B5, depending on the type, has the following structure:

Steering rods and tips are mechanisms by which the wheels are turned directly.
Gears and toothed bar - are responsible for the transfer of momentum from the steering wheel to the steering rod.
The crankcase or body of the mechanism is made mainly of aluminum and contains the main elements of the mechanism.
Set of springs - used to ensure a tighter fit of the rack to the gear.
Bearings - perform the function of softening the movements performed for a smoother rail travel.
Limiters - with their help, the maximum possible swing value of the running gear is set.

The structure may vary slightly depending on the vehicle manufacturer. The cost of repairs also depends on the type of mechanism and can sometimes rise to half the cost of the part itself.

There are several types of typical problems that may indicate a malfunction in the operation of the mechanism, namely:

Knock while driving.
Atypical noise under the hood when starting the engine, amplified when turning the steering wheel.
The appearance of leaks under the hood, a decrease in the level of fluid in the power steering tank.
Vibration or a distinct thud from the steering wheel when driving on uneven roads.

The cause of a breakdown or malfunction of the steering rack is most often the operation of the car in aggressive conditions. Driving over bumpy terrain and potholes leads to loosening of the mechanism and, as a result, to their breakdown. The increased pressure on the hydraulic booster, which occurs when you press the gas pedal strongly and hold the steering wheel in the extreme position, also has a detrimental effect on the condition of the entire part.

You can determine the malfunction by visual inspection, and if cracks or corrosion are found on any of the parts, it will need to be replaced. To more effectively identify the problem, car service workers perform a complete diagnosis of not only steering mechanisms, but also suspension. First of all, the longitudinal and transverse thrust is tested. The tightness of the tightened nut and special tightening bolt may also indicate a problem.

Another reason for the appearance of a knock on the steering rack can be loosened bearing mountings. In this case, the rack is adjusted using the adjusting nut at the end of the mechanism.The procedure does not take much time and is the least expensive in case of timely referral to specialists.

After carrying out the work, the car is subjected to running tests and, if necessary, an additional adjustment of the adjusting screw is made.

The list of repairs carried out in a car service to eliminate problems associated with poor performance of the steering rack may vary, but basic measures include:

Disassembly of the rail and assessment of the condition of all its elements.
Grinding of corroded parts using special equipment.
Replacement of O-rings and oil seals.
Replacement of parts that cannot be repaired or do not meet factory requirements.

After the performed procedures, the steering rack is assembled and diagnosed on a special machine. The check takes place in all operating modes with the use of an additional load. In case of successful passing of the tests, the part is assembled in place and undergoes the final pumping of the hydraulic elements.

This is how a typical Volkswagen Passat B5 rail repair is carried out.

In order to avoid possible problems with the steering rack, it is recommended, first of all, to take good care of the car, especially on uneven road sections. So you will not have to repair the VW Passat B5 steering rack for a longer time.

In winter, after warming up the engine, it will not be superfluous to make several smooth swaying movements with the steering wheel, which will allow you to warm up the fluid in the hydraulic booster.

The condition of the protective boots must always be in good condition, any defect can cause moisture or dirt to seep to the sensitive parts of the mechanism.

It is not recommended to keep the steering wheel in its extreme position for more than 5 seconds, this can lead to wear of the power steering pump and an increase in the load on the parts.

If the mechanism is incorrectly corrected on its own, an even more serious breakdown may occur or the wear of the mechanism parts may increase.

Contacting a car service will provide a high-quality job and a guarantee for the services provided for a certain time.

However, it is easier to take the necessary measures to reduce the wear of the elements of the steering mechanism than to pay in the future for an expensive repair of the Volkswagen Passat B5 steering rack or a complete replacement of the rack.

Self-replacement of the steering rack on a Volkswagen Passat b 5 (Volkswagen Passat B5).

The Volkswagen Passat b 5 has a hydraulic steering rack, it is the main part of the steering, and therefore it must be treated with great attention. Timely replacement of the hydraulic fluid will significantly increase the resource of the steering rack.
In this article I will tell you how you can change the hydraulic steering rack yourself, and what tool you need for this.
On this car, the steering rack had a snack when the steering wheel was turned, and it was decided to replace it with a similar used steering rack, in good condition.

Read also: DIY starter repair Daf 95

At the Audi forum, at one time they figured out for a long time which repair kit is suitable for this rail.

In the end, this is what happened

Nameplate on the rail, indicating its affiliation to the manufacturer and the original VAG number

this is how she looks on the car

It turned out that the tubers were already engaged in the bulkhead of such a rail, let me think and I'll try

.
Having fished out the necessary list of spare parts on the forum, I ordered it through Exist
Here is such an order (the last, green, position bye do not look, I will write later why):

Spare parts came and I decided to sort it out at home.

The next day I went to the garage to change the rail. According to my calculations, it takes about 30 minutes to shoot a reiki.

First, we climb under the torpedo from the driver's side, remove the lower plastic of the torpedo, which is above the driver's feet.

Then we unscrew the steering shaft with a cardan from the rack (a bolt with an eccentric and a wrench for 17).

Next, remove the rubber boot.

This completes the work in the salon.

Next, unscrew the steering tips from the swivel levers.

Then, from the driver's side, remove the protective casing / boot

, through this side we will pull out the rail itself.

Then I removed the battery, underneath is one of the 3 bolts holding the rail. The head of the bolts has the form of a 12-sided head, for which a 10-sided head with 12 sides was purchased. Immediately I unscrew the 2 bolts that are in the battery compartment.

Then I got under the car.
First, I unscrewed one of the hoses going to the cooling radiator and drained the remaining power steering fluid. Then he unscrewed the slurry supply to the rail, the bolt 22 + 2 pucks (we don’t lose or buy new ones). Next, I unscrewed the last bolt holding the rail and moved the rail towards the bumper, so it is more convenient to unscrew the slurry return - a bolt for 19 + 2 washers.
Here everything is released, we take out the rail through the driver's side (i.e. the left wheel, I didn’t take off the wheels, I just jacked it up on this side)
And now this is a miracle in hand

Bulkhead process

I first unscrewed the tips, not forgetting to count how many turns they were twisted.
Next, remove the anthers ... It is better to prepare the place in advance, because a lot of slurry will pour out.
Then we unscrew the steering rods, I had one on the verge of death, so I replaced both of them, so that later I would not think.

1.Next, we screw it on the lid, which closes the cylinder with a nylon tip, which tighten the rack shaft.

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or

and unscrew

Then we take out the sealing ring (in the previous photo it is already in the hand). And we try to pull out the piston itself (I’ll say right away I couldn’t pull it out at this stage, well, God bless him

2. Remove the steering shaft. To do this, you need to unscrew the cover and, under it, the nut by 17. Then, from the side of the shaft itself, remove the retaining ring

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On this shaft or worm, I changed:
1 gland and one o-ring on the bushing with the bearing (here it is on the left side)

.
on the shaft itself there are 4 white little rings and under them 4 black ones. We lubricate everything with liquid and put it aside until assembly.

Move to the other end of the rail (right side or end A)

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We need to remove the retaining ring (it is already taken off a little higher in the photo). We put the rail on the “priest” and pulling / pushing with the shaft itself, remove the stem (1), the bushing (2), and the shaft itself.

We take the stock. On it we change the O-ring and the oil seal
Next, on the bushing, we change 2 sealing rings.

The shaft itself. We make his troubleshooting. My shaft on my own rail was prone to corrosion on the one hand.
Change 1 white sealing ring on the shaft. Now we put all this aside until assembly and grab the rail body.

We put the body up with the left side (from the side of the steering shaft) and take the head on 21 and 2 extensions. We insert them into the body and, with a light blow, knock out the oil seal and the bushing, which are approximately in the middle of the body. These are they:

change them to new ones and start assembling

We put on the oil seal and sleeve on the shaft and sleeve and insert all this “economy” into the body. Then insert the bushing and stem and replace the retaining ring. Next, we collect everything else in reverse order.

From the information that I found, it turns out that not all bulkheads went smoothlyJ. I began to think what the problem was and at the same time ordered other oil seals on the shaft with a number 7852 033 155. Today I picked them up and went to tempt fate once again.
He took off the rail again, disassembled it, wiped everything. He took off the oil seals and began to compare 140 (left) and 155 (right) with each other.

It appears that the parameters were considered:
one.The thickness of the gland is the same, the only difference is in the installation of the nylon ring

2. Installation of the nylon ring: in the 140th it is located in the gland itself, and in the 155th it is, as it were, docked to the back of the gland

3. Appearance of the working surface:

the 140th has only 1 protrusion of the working surface, and the 155th has 3. It is apparently designed to work under high pressure.
I made better pictures:
The first photo shows the 140th oil seal

on the second 155th oil seal

Hence the conclusion that for our rail an oil seal with a number 140 DOES NOT FIT, an oil seal should be ordered with number 155

On the Volkswagen Passat B5, two types of rails were installed - manufactured by Koyo and manufactured by ZF. Accordingly, these rails have various typical faults. At repair steering rack Passat Corrosion is the first thing that ZF has to deal with. The metal rack of the ZF steering rack is not very corrosion resistant. If the slightest moisture gets under the anthers steering rack Passat B5 at the ends of the shaft-rail, on which the oil seals rub, corrosion appears. Oil seals cannot work on a rusty surface for a long time.

The ends of the shaft-rack, damaged by corrosion, are restored by Gidrolab for an additional fee. We have all the modern technologies for the restoration of shaft-rack from corrosion. To choose a method for restoring the shaft-rack from corrosion, you need to measure its depth and find out the nature of the location - where exactly the corrosion is. In each case, a different method is chosen - for example, Repair Diameter Method, Vetulation or Deep Grinding. Our technicians will select the best and most economical method of repairing parts from corrosion. Corrosion up to 0.2 mm is removed by Gidrolab free of charge.

Corrosion in steering racks Passat B5 made by ZF can also affect the teeth of the shafts. If the teeth are damaged, then such a shaft cannot be restored. It will have to be changed. Gidrolab has shafts on hand as a last resort.

Repair of the steering rack Passat B5 produced by Koyo is associated with completely different malfunctions. The main problems of these rails are play and wear of the distributor housing. Backlash accumulates in the rusk, which presses the teeth of the shafts against each other. The cracker itself begins to play in its crankcase due to wear and stops rigidly holding the shaft-rack in the vertical direction. The malfunction is called "Wear of the cracker and its crankcase."

At repair of steering racks Passat B5 Gidrolab uses its proprietary technology to restore the rusk and its crankcase. This technology guarantees excellent fixation of the shaft-rack against vertical movement and the complete absence of backlash after repair. Warranty - 13 months !

The second typical malfunction that one has to deal with when repair of steering racks Passat is “Distributor housing wear”. This is truly the scourge of these rails. If you have a biting steering wheel on the Passat B5, then your road lies in the Gidrolab company. We have a proprietary technology for the restoration of the distributor crankcase against wear, which gives one hundred percent results. The method of cranking the distributor crankcase using the right technology and materials in Hydrolab does more than just prolong life steering rack Passat, but makes this knot eternal. Everything else can break, and the crankcase will not wear out again!

At repair of steering racks Passat with the wear of the distributor crankcase, it must be understood that the depleted aluminum does not disappear anywhere, but accumulates in the system in the power steering fluid. Therefore, it is imperative to flush the system. First of all, the power steering pump suffers from metal particles in the oil. Gidrolab will take all necessary actions to save the Passat power steering pump, including flushing the system.

Video (click to play).

The rest repair of the steering rack Passat B5 does not cause difficulties. Gidrolab eliminates backlash, leaks, biting and knocking with WARRANTY 13 months !

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