Do-it-yourself repair of the Passat b5 rail

The procedure is applicable for cars:

Volkswagen Passat B5 / Volkswagen Passat B5 (3B2) 1997 - 2001
Volkswagen Passat Variant B5 / Volkswagen Passat Variant B5 (3B5) 1997 - 2001

Volkswagen Passat B5.5 / Volkswagen Passat B5.5 (3B3) 2001 - 2005
Volkswagen Passat Variant B5.5 / Volkswagen Passat Variant B5.5 (3B6) 2001 - 2005

Oil flowed sharply from the rack on the right side from under the anther. Exist does not give a repair kit, but the new one bites.
It was decided to remove and see how and what's there.

We remove the battery, we see one of the three bolts, fastening the rail (all three are 12 beam by 10)

The second bolt is in the area of ​​​​the vacuum

And the third is invisible from nowhere, it can only be felt with your hands from the engine compartment. It is twisted on the other side. Next, remove the right wheel, disconnect the tie rod from the knuckle and remove the plastic cover

Everything on the right, on the left we do the same procedure

and for further convenience, disconnect both upper levers. There, in the distance (hard to see), there are two bolts for fastening the hoses - on the left by 22, on the right by 19. They are unscrewed with ring wrenches, here they are

We wash our hands and move to the salon. Removing the steering wheel plastic

We see the nut at 17, on the other side the torx is 55. We unscrew the nut, and turn the bolt slightly counterclockwise and pull it out (eccentric bolt). Disconnect the cross from the rail (pull it off). Everything is here too. Smoke break.

We pass under the hood and unscrew the rail mount, starting with 1 bolt (first photo). Next, you need to collect a long shnyaga through 2 cardan shafts and drive this partner, tired of idleness, under the car. I groped my hands to the bolt that was inside, and he twisted it. Well, the last bolt near the vacuum cleaner. We take out the rail on the left side.

Here she is.
The rail turned out to be Koyo 8D1 422 052

We assemble in the reverse order, having previously spent a lot of money on a new rail.

There was the same ambush on the VW T4, they also said that there was no repair kit, and the guys from the spare parts store on the market said that they had it, but they didn’t know where they had it. I got these guys so tired of questions that they rummaged around as they should and they called me personally, although they put up a repair kit for me for 4200 rubles.

The kit itself included all the seals, Teflon rings, circlips, rubber rings, and even a new nut, which tightens the steering worm! In general, a complete set of bulkhead rails. Everything was labeled ZF. It got up like a native. The shaft must be polished (sinks, scuffs). Defects on the shaft appear due to an inaccurate replacement of the steering rods (dirt gets under the corrugation and does its job). In general, I then went over the rail, and it seems to still be walking (sold the car 2 years ago).

Particular attention should be paid to cleanliness when disassembling this mechanism, especially when you start to remove the shaft. There, the inner surface of the rail housing (it is also a working compartment) is polished to a mirror, and when knocking out the internal seals, scratches can be left on it, which in turn will lead to fluid transfer from one cavity to another and, accordingly, to poor rail operation. All tools and devices must be almost sterile)))). And there is nothing like that inside.

P.S. in the conditions of a bulkhead in a specialized production, they give a guarantee of up to 2 years, and sort out (read, grind the shaft) up to 10 times.
For sorting out rails: by the way, oil seals are of common sizes there, I saw such in a stuffing stall, you can choose 1 to 1 in size, but it is not known what conditions they are designed for, they suddenly cannot cope with pressure

If you did not find information on your car, look at the cars built on the platform of your car.
With a high degree of probability, information on repair and maintenance will be suitable for your car.

Before the advent of the car in 1996

Passat B5 Volkswagen was considered a car manufacturer exclusively for the middle class. But the B5 turned the usual ideas about Volkswagen upside down, becoming the first premium car and, perhaps, the best in the entire Passat line.

A powerful engine, luxurious interior trim and elegant appearance have made this car one of the best-selling Volkswagens - in this indicator it is second only to the legendary Beetle.

This car was created on the basis of the no less popular Audi A4 - from it he took many elements of the chassis, including many steering components, which are based on a rack.

The Volkswagen Passat B5 steering rack consists of the following components:

• tips and steering rods - parts that are in direct contact with the front wheels and turn them;
• toothed bar (or rail itself) - moving left and right, depending on the direction of rotation, it moves the tips;
• control gear - it is rigidly fixed to the steering shaft and, rotating simultaneously with it, by means of a gear train, converts its rotational movement into the translational movement of the bar;
• spring - ensures the density of the gear connection;
• ball bearings - with their help, the tips are connected to the rail;
• limiters - serve to determine the maximum angle of rotation of the front wheels of the car.

Another component of the rack is the power steering (GUR). It greatly increases the effort applied by the driver to the steering wheel, thereby providing additional comfort when driving. The power steering also compensates for the vibration arising from the unevenness of the roadway and transmitted through the steering column.

All possible malfunctions of the rail can be divided into two groups: malfunctions of the mechanical part and malfunctions of the hydraulic booster. Most of the latter manifests itself in the form of partial or complete leakage of the power steering fluid, either through worn seals and tubes, or due to the destruction of cylinders. In the first case, power steering repair consists in replacing worn oil seals. For this, there is a so-called repair kit, consisting of all rubber parts through which liquid can flow.

If the "drip" itself

cylinder, then, most likely, the master will offer you to completely replace the power steering. A cylinder that is cracked or deformed as a result of mechanical damage cannot be restored, and it is sold only complete with the entire power steering. In addition, if your B5 has a solid age, then the power steering of the same model may not be found.

Fortunately, all power steering installed on the Passat B5 are interchangeable.

The situation is somewhat more complicated with breakdowns of the mechanical component of the rail. First of all, this is a backlash.

In fairness, it should be said that backlash is the scourge of all mechanisms. It occurs as a result of wear of parts in the process of their friction. Over time, their geometry changes, and between, for example, the teeth of the rack and the control gear, free space appears (by the way, the word “backlash” is translated from German as air). At an early stage, you can remove the backlash by tightening the spring - this is what it is designed for. But it is impossible to tighten it indefinitely - sooner or later the moment will come when worn parts will require replacement. Actually, the repair of the VW Passat B5 steering rack consists in replacing worn parts with new ones.

Much harder to define

the node in which the backlash was formed. The diagnostic procedure, which is carried out in several stages by two specialists, will help answer this question. The car is mounted on a lift so that nothing interferes with the free rotation of its front wheels. While one master rotates the steering wheel from one of its extreme positions to another, the second monitors the rotation of the wheels. Thus, the value of the total backlash is determined, which is the sum of the backlashes of all movable joints of the rail elements. If in the process of turning the wheels an extraneous sound is heard - knocking or crackling - this indicates deformation or breakage of one or more parts of the mechanism.

What parts are out of order, in which nodes there are backlashes - the master will be able to determine this only after disassembling the mechanism and cleaning its components from contamination.

When the cause of the breakdown is established and the failed parts are replaced, it is the turn of the next procedure - adjusting the steering rack. It is carried out on a special stand that simulates working conditions for the steering system of a car. Here the master sets the exact angle of rotation of the tips, depending on the turn of the steering wheel. Adjustment of the wheel-tip assembly is carried out after installing the rail on the car.

High-quality repair of the Volkswagen B5 steering rack is possible only in a car service, where all the necessary equipment and Volkswagen spare parts that may be required during the repair process are available.

The main control element of the vehicle is the steering rack. The part is responsible for the movement of the wheels of the car, acting as a conductor of a power impulse from the steering column to the wheels. Consider how the Passat B5 steering rack is repaired.

The steering rack differs in several types, it can be mechanical and hydraulic. The mechanical system was installed in domestic cars and was later replaced by a more advanced hydraulic one. Later, a third type of rail was developed - electric, the main element of which is a motor that performs the main work. The EUR has not become widespread among motorists due to the higher cost and complexity of the mechanism, which is difficult to repair.

The steering rack Passat B5, depending on the type, has the following structure:

• Tie rods and tips - mechanisms by which the direct rotation of the wheels is carried out.
• Gears and toothed bar - responsible for the transfer of momentum from the steering wheel to the tie rod.
• The crankcase or mechanism case is made mainly of aluminum and contains the main elements of the mechanism.
• Set of springs - used to ensure a tighter fit of the rack to the gear.
• Bearings - perform the function of softening the movements performed for a smoother travel of the rack.
• Limiters - with their help, the maximum possible value of the rotation of the undercarriage is set.

The structure may vary slightly depending on the vehicle manufacturer. The cost of repair also depends on the type of mechanism and can sometimes increase to half the cost of the part itself.

There are several types of typical problems that may indicate a malfunction in the mechanism, namely:

• Knocking while driving.
• Atypical noise under the hood when starting the engine, increasing while turning the steering wheel.
• The appearance of leaks under the hood, a decrease in the fluid level in the power steering tank.
• Vibration or a distinct knock of the steering wheel while driving on a rough road.

The reason for the breakdown or malfunction of the steering rack is most often the operation of the car in aggressive conditions. Driving on bumpy terrain and potholes leads to loosening of the mechanism and, as a result, to their breakdown. The increased pressure on the hydraulic booster, which occurs when the gas pedal is pressed hard and the steering wheel is held in the extreme position, also adversely affects the condition of the entire part.

You can determine the malfunction by visual inspection, and if cracks or corrosion are found on any of the parts, it will need to be replaced. To more effectively identify the problem, car service workers make a complete diagnosis of not only the steering mechanisms, but also the suspension. First of all, the longitudinal and transverse traction is checked. The tightness of the tightened nut and special pinch bolt may also indicate a problem.

Another reason for the knocking of the steering rack can be loose bearing mounts. In this case, the rack is adjusted using the adjusting nut at the end of the mechanism.The procedure does not take much time and is the least expensive in case of timely access to specialists.

After carrying out the work, the car is subjected to sea trials and, if necessary, additional adjustment of the adjusting screw is made.

The list of repairs carried out in a car service to eliminate problems associated with poor steering rack operation may vary, but basic activities include:

• Dismantling the rail and assessing the condition of all its elements.
• Grinding of parts subjected to corrosion on special equipment.
• Replacement of sealing rings and seals.
• Replacement of parts that cannot be repaired or do not meet factory requirements.

After the procedures carried out, the steering rack is assembled and diagnosed on a special machine. The check takes place in all modes of operation with the use of an additional load. In case of successful testing, the part is mounted in place and passes the final pumping of the hydraulic elements.

This is how a typical Volkswagen Passat B5 rail repair is carried out.

In order to avoid possible problems with the steering rack, it is recommended, first of all, to take good care of the car, especially on uneven roads. So you will not have to repair the VW Passat B5 steering rack for a longer time.

In winter, after warming up the engine, it will not be superfluous to make several smooth rocking movements with the steering wheel, which will allow you to warm up the fluid in the hydraulic booster.

The condition of the protective anthers must always be in good condition, any defect can cause moisture or dirt to seep into the sensitive parts of the mechanism.

It is not recommended to hold the steering wheel in its extreme position for more than 5 seconds, this can lead to wear of the power steering pump and increase the load on the parts.

If the mechanism is incorrectly corrected on its own, an even more serious breakdown may occur or the wear of the mechanism parts will increase.

Contacting a car service will provide high-quality work and a guarantee for a certain time on the services performed.

However, it is easier to take the necessary measures to reduce the wear of the steering gear elements than to pay for expensive repairs to the Volkswagen Passat B5 steering rack or a complete replacement of the steering rack in the future.

Self-replacement of the steering rack on a Volkswagen Passat b 5 (Volkswagen Passat B5).

The Volkswagen Passat b 5 has a hydraulic steering rack, it is the main part of the steering, and therefore it must be treated with great attention. Timely replacement of the hydraulic fluid will significantly increase the resource of the steering rack.
In this article I will tell you how you can change the hydraulic steering rack yourself, and what tool you need for this.
On this car, the steering rack was biting when turning the steering wheel, and it was decided to replace it with a similar used steering rack, in good condition.

The number of this original steering rack for Volkswagen Passat b 5 American is 8D1 422 066 F

1. Raise the front of the car, remove the wheels.
2. Open the hood and remove the plastic protective cover, disconnect the terminals and remove the battery.

3. Using a 16 and 13mm wrench, unscrew and remove the steering tips on both sides.
4. We remove the protective anthers of the steering rack on both sides, for this we unscrew the 10mm plastic nut and pull out two caps.

The steering rack is pulled out from the left side along the course of the car, so we no longer touch the right one.

5. Using 19 and 22mm wrenches, unscrew the two hydraulic hoses, it is important not to lose the aluminum mounting washers.

6. We go into the passenger compartment and remove the trim under the steering wheel, for this we pull off the fuse cover on the left side, and unscrew the two screws there with a torix t 20 key.

And two more, as shown in the photo, in order to remove the dipped beam switch, you need to press it inward when it is off and turn it clockwise until it stops. Then pull it towards you, disconnect the connector and remove.

7. Unscrew the bolt, eccentric, fastening the steering shaft to the rail, using a torix wrench t - 45 and a 16mm cap.

Having turned the steering wheel to the position of the wheels straight, if possible, you need to fix it in this position. Or simply, do not rotate it, with excessive rotation of the steering wheel, you can damage the steering wheel position sensor. Pull up and remove the universal joint from the steering rack.

8. The steering rack for the Volkswagen Passat B5 is fastened with three bolts.

Two bolts are located, the first under the vacuum brake booster, the second under the battery, and the third bolt is under the steering rack behind the hydraulic hoses (seen in the photo).

We unscrew them and pull out the steering rack from the left wheel arch.

The steering rack is installed in the reverse order, additional moments during assembly, this is to set the new rack exactly to match the steering shaft cardan. And keep clean when reassembling hydraulic hoses.

After complete assembly, pour fluid into the power steering reservoir and pump it.

Bleeding the power steering fluid means turning the steering wheel all the way, in different directions, with the engine not running. With periodic checks and topping up to the desired level in the power steering reservoir. And in the same way, on a running engine, until the fluid stops leaving, and remains at the desired level.

According to this instruction, everyone will be able to make car repairs with their own hands.

Ripped mine yesterday. I just don’t understand who the manufacturer is zf or koyo. On the plate number: 8d1422066f. On the rail itself, the numbers are 7852501328 and on the other side of the rail, the number is: 8d1422105a. Decided to sort it out. I don’t know which repair kit to take on zf or koyo? It looks like a zf river for me. There is no zf marking and no koyo either. There are only braunschweig and audi, vw. Reiki release 97g. I'll try to post pics.

Post added at 15:05, previous post was at 14:39

Post added at 15:14, previous post was at 15:05

Post added at 15:21, previous post was at 15:14

I removed the rail due to the fact that the shaft in it creaks and gives to the entire body of the car. I don't know what could be the reason. Visually, everything is in perfect order, there is no rust and development. I want to try a repair kit. I didn’t manage to pull out only a nickel, which tightens the steering rack. I removed the nut with the spring, but I can not pull out the piston.

still in the process of writing
This report is made up of material iva99380798(For what to it many thanks.) Well and the gag.
I ask you not to pay attention to the arrows and indications on the borrowed pictures, because information taken from this post - https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/1317/showthread.ph. =1#post2068729

Background.
For some time now I began to notice that with a sharp acceleration, something began to knock on the right side. At what, it is not dependent on a straight line or with the turned out wheels. And recently a leak of the rail itself has been added

Story.

Since it’s not quite a hunt to walk on foot, I began to look for a rail in a non-working condition. The guys gave me exactly the same as mine ZF 7852501328 VAG number 8d1 422 066 F.

At the Audi forum, at one time they figured out which repair kit is suitable for this rail.

In the end, this is what happened

Nameplate on the rail, indicating its belonging to the manufacturer and the original VAG number

this is what it looks like on the car

It turned out that the tubers were already engaged in the bulkhead of such a rail, let me think and I will try .
Having found the necessary list of spare parts on the forum, I ordered it through Exist
Here we have such an order (the last, green, position bye do not look, I will write later why):

Spare parts came and I decided to sort it out at home.

The next day I went to the garage to change the rail. According to my calculations, it takes about 30 minutes to remove the slats.

First, we climb under the torpedo on the driver's side, remove the lower plastic of the torpedo, which is above the driver's legs.

Then we unscrew the steering shaft with a cardan from the rail (a bolt with an eccentric and a turnkey nut for 17).

Next, remove the rubber boot.

This completes the interior work.

Next, unscrew the steering tips from the rotary levers.

Then remove the protective cover / boot from the driver's side

, through this side we will pull out the rack itself.

Then I removed the battery, under it is one of the 3 bolts holding the rail. The bolt cap has the form of a 12-quagrannik, for which the head is bought for 10 with 12 faces. Immediately unscrew the 2 bolts that are in the battery compartment.

Then I crawled under the car.
First, I unscrewed one of the hoses going to the cooling radiator and drained the remaining power steering fluid. Next, unscrewed the feed in the rail, 22 + bolt 2 washers (do not lose or buy new ones). Next, I unscrewed the last bolt holding the rail and moved the rail towards the bumper, so it is more convenient to unscrew the return flow of the slurry - a bolt for 19 + 2 washers.
That's all released, pull out the rail through the driver's side (that is, the left wheel, Wheels I did not shoot, only subdominated from this side)
And here is a miracle in the hands

The bulkhead process

I first unscrew the tips, not forgetting to calculate how many turns they are spinning.
Next, remove the dusters . It is better to prepare the place in advance, because. Yezhy a lot of things will fall out.
Then we unscrew the tie rods, I had one near death, so I replaced both of them, so that later I wouldn’t even think about it.

1.Next, we pin on the lid, which closes the cylinder with a nylon tip, which tightens the rack shaft.

[/ URL]
or

and unscrew

Then we take out the sealing ring (in the previous photo it is already in the hand). And we are trying to pull out the piston itself (I’ll say right away I couldn’t pull it out at this stage, well, God bless him

).

2. We remove the steering shaft. To do this, you need to unscrew the cover and, under it, the nut by 17. Next, from the side of the shaft itself, remove the retaining ring

[/URL] and pull out the entire shaft to the “street”.

On this shaft or worm I changed:
1 oil seal and one o-ring on the sleeve with bearing (here it is on the left side)

.
On the shaft of 4 white rings and under them 4 black. All lubricate the aliens and postpone to the assembly.

We move to the other end of the rail (right side or end A)

[/ URL]

We will need to remove the retaining ring (a little higher in the photo it has already been removed). We put the rail on the “priest” and dragging / pushing with the shaft itself, remove the stem ( 1 ), bushing ( 2 ), and the shaft itself.

We take stock. I change the sealing ring and the gland
Next, on the sleeve, change 2 sealing rings.

The shaft itself. We are troubleshooting it. My shaft on my native rail was subject to corrosion on one side.
On the shaft we change 1 white sealing ring. Now all this is postponing to the assembly and we carry out the rack hull.

We put the housing up the left side (from the steering shaft) take the head to 21 and 2 extension cords. We insert them into the body and with a light blow we knock out the oil seal and bushing, which are located approximately in the middle of the body. Here they are:

change them to new ones and start assembling

We put the stuffing box and bushing on the shaft and bushing and insert all this “household” into the body. Then we insert the sleeve and rod, and put the locking ring in place. Then we collect everything else in reverse order.

According to the information that I found, it turns out that not everyone had a smooth overhaul. I began to think what the problem was and at the same time ordered other oil seals for the shaft with a number 7852 033 155. Today I took them and went to once again tempt fate J .
Removed the rail again, disassembled, wiped everything. He removed the glands and began to compare 140 (left) and 155 (right) among themselves.

This is what parameters considered:
1. The thickness of the stuffing box is the same, the difference is only in the installation of a nylon ring

2Installation of a nylon ring: in the 140th it is located in the gland itself, and in the 155th it is, as it were, docked to the back of the gland

3. The appearance of the work surface:

the 140th has only 1 protrusion of the working surface, and the 155th has 3. Apparently it is designed to work under high pressure.
Here are some better pics:
On the first photo is the 140th oil seal

on the second 155th gland

Hence the conclusion that for our rail the gland with the number 140 NOT SUITABLE, seal must be ordered with number 155

Two types of rails were installed on the Volkswagen Passat B5 - Koyo production and ZF production. Accordingly, these rails have different typical faults. At Passat steering rack repair production ZF has to deal primarily with corrosion. The metal of the ZF steering rack shaft is not very resistant to corrosion. When the slightest moisture gets under the anthers steering rack Passat B5 at the ends of the shaft-rail, along which the seals rub, corrosion appears. Oil seals cannot work for a long time on a rusty surface.

Corroded rail shaft ends are repaired by Gidrolab for an additional fee. We have all modern technologies for the restoration of the shaft-rail from corrosion. To choose a method for restoring the shaft-rail from corrosion, you need to measure its depth and find out the nature of the location - where exactly is the corrosion. In each case, a different method is selected - for example, Repair diameter method, Bushing or deep grinding. Our craftsmen will select the best and most economical method of restoring parts from corrosion. Corrosion up to 0.2 mm is removed by Gidrolab free of charge.

Corrosion in steering racks Passat B5 manufactured by ZF can also affect the teeth of the shafts. If the teeth are damaged, then such a shaft cannot be restored. It will have to be changed. Gidrolab has shafts available for emergencies.

Repair of the steering rack Passat B5 manufactured by Koyo is associated with completely different malfunctions. The main problems of these rails are play and wear of the distributor housing. Backlash accumulates in the cracker, which presses the teeth of the shafts to each other. The cracker itself begins to play in its crankcase due to wear and ceases to firmly hold the shaft-rail in the vertical direction. The fault is called “Wear of the cracker and its crankcase”.

At repair of steering racks Passat B5 Gidrolab uses its proprietary technology to restore the cracker and its crankcase. This technology guarantees excellent fixation of the rack shaft against vertical movement and the complete absence of backlash after repair. Warranty - 13 months !

The second typical malfunction that one has to deal with when Passat steering rack repairs is “Distributor housing wear”. This is truly the scourge of these rails. If you have a steering wheel bite on the B5 Passat, then your road lies in the Gidrolab company. We have a proprietary technology for the restoration of the distributor housing from wear, which gives a 100% result. The method of bushing the distributor housing using the right technology and materials in Hydrolab does not just prolong life Passat steering rack, and makes this node eternal. Everything else can break, and the crankcase will not wear out again!

At Passat steering rack repairs with the wear of the distributor crankcase, it must be understood that the produced aluminum does not disappear anywhere, but accumulates in the system in the power steering fluid. Therefore, it is necessary to flush the system. The power steering pump suffers from metal particles in the oil. Gidrolab will take all necessary actions to save the Passat power steering pump, including flushing the system.

Otherwise repair steering rack Passat B5 causes no difficulty. Gidrolab eliminates backlash, leaks, bites and knocks with WARRANTY 13 months !