That's all, now the rail is in place, then we put the wheels, tighten the nuts and remove the car from the jack. Now you know everything you need to fix a steering rack in a timely manner. The main thing is to remember that you should not delay the repair.
Replacing the rack with a VAZ 2114 requires not only special skills, just a certain skill, because many parts must be unscrewed in very hard-to-reach places where the presence of at least a ratchet is simply necessary.
The steering rack is a key element of the vehicle's steering system. Therefore, its serviceability is very important. If there is play in the steering rack, this affects the geometry of the wheels, which leads to unstable running at high speed, as well as increased rubber wear.
So there are several ways. The very first and simplest is to turn the steering wheel. You just need to pull it from side to side. Ideally, the wheels should respond to the slightest spin. In fact, many even new reiki are not capable of this. This is the quality of the details, you just have to put up with it. The wear of the steering rack does not show up in any way in the form of knocks or vibrations, contrary to popular belief. If, on the move, the bumps give off into the steering wheel, most likely, the steering tip needs to be replaced.
The second method is more accurate and complex at the same time. To carry out this check, it is necessary to jack up the front wheels one by one, and then shake them across the rotation in the horizontal plane. If there is a slight play, then it is somewhere in the steering, but not necessarily in the rail. There is no way to explain it, only a specialist can make such a diagnosis.
Before changing the rail, you can try to tighten it. Thus, column gaps are reduced. The main thing is not to overtighten, otherwise the steering wheel may jam. To tighten the steering rack on the VAZ 2114, you need a special multi-faceted key, it can be found in any car shop.
Now let's proceed directly to the procedure. If the operation is not carried out on a lift, then it is necessary to hang out the entire front part and substitute some kind of pedestal stands. It is imperative that the vehicle is stationary.
Next, unscrew the steering tips with a 22 key, then knock down the bipod with a hammer. If it is planned to install the tips in the old places, then in no case should you use all kinds of pullers, because the plug pulls out the finger, and the threaded puller will ruin the thread, you will either have to go through with a stick or change the tip.
Now you need to unscrew the four nuts securing the rail to the body. This must be done from under the wheel arch, otherwise you will not reach it. It is advisable to use a ratchet with a long head of 13. After that, we crawl under the driver's feet and unscrew the bolt 13 from the steering shaft. To release the clamp, you can attach a sharp chisel and hit it several times with a hammer. At this time, it is advisable to pull the rail out of the shaft; this is done well with a crowbar.
The rail is installed in the reverse order. After the replacement, it is imperative to make the geometry of the wheels, otherwise goodbye, tires.
VIDEO
Welcome!
Note!
Summary:
When should the steering rack be repaired?
Note!
Disassembly:
Note!
2) Now, on the right side (From the end) of the rail, remove the support and the spacer ring as shown in the first photo, immediately after that, use pliers to bite through the clamps that hold the protective cover in one place (see photo 2, these clamps are disposable), then remove the cover itself (see photo 3) from the rail, then on the other side (From the end) remove one more support (Metal this time) and the protective cap, you can see all this operation in the fourth photo.
3) Next, you will need to unscrew the same nut of the rail stop (see photo 1) with the same special wrench with an octagonal head for 17, and remove it after unscrewing, immediately behind this nut there will be a spring (see photo 3), it also need to be removed and put aside, well, with a screwdriver, hook the retaining ring as it is shown in the last photo.
4) Next, take the rail in your hands and tap it on any kind of board (Hit the crankcase until the stop falls out of the inside of it, see everything in photo 1 for more details), then remove the bulkhead O-ring as shown in photo 2 , then take a screwdriver in your hands and use it to remove the gear boot (photo 3) and the lock washer (photo 4).
5) Then proceed to remove the gear that comes complete with the bearing from the crankcase, it will need to be removed, for this, first unscrew the bearing fastening nut of this gear (see.Photo 1) and then remove it from the shaft (Photo 2 is shown), then you will need to take a mounting blade and use it as a lever for a wrench, that is, with a 14 wrench, grab the gear flat (see photo 3) and resting with a key on this blade, remove the gear from the crankcase together with the bearing (photo 4).
Note!
6) Now you will need to remove the steering rack itself from the crankcase, for this, simply tilt the crankcase and the rack itself will fall out (see photo 1), then pry the support sleeve with a flat screwdriver and remove it from the crankcase as shown in photo 2, instead of this sleeve you will need to install a new bushing in this place, but before installing a new one, put new damping rings on it (see photo 3, when installing, make sure that their thin part is against the cut of the bushing) and then install the bushing in its place (see photo 4, carefully install the bushing and make sure that the protrusions do not protrude, everything should be clear and the rubber damping rings do not forget to cut and remove their parts from the bushing).
7) Go ahead, now remove the locking ring from the worm with pliers (see photo 1), then press out the ball bearing with a special puller and thereby remove it (see photo 2), then proceed to removing the needle bearing, you will need either a special a puller, or you can stock up on improvised means, namely with a hammer and a drill, with a drill whose drill diameter will be 2 mm, you will need to drill two holes at the end of the crankcase (As shown in photo 3) through which you will knock out the bearing, after after drilling, insert nails into both holes and hitting them with a hammer, remove the needle bearing from the crankcase as shown in the last photo.
Assembly:
Additional video clip:
VIDEO
Note!
VIDEO "Auto repair" Do-it-yourself steering rack repair VAZ2114
VIDEO A steering rack is a control element of a car designed to convert the rotational motion of the steering wheel into a translational motion of the steering rods, which in turn rotate the wheels.
A mechanical steering rack without an amplifier is installed on a VAZ 2114 car. It is fastened with two clamps and bolts that pull the rack body to the car body.
The rods are connected directly to the rail using hardened fine thread bolts. The steering gear shaft rotates on two bearings.
The first is of the needle type. Serves as the bottom anchor point and also as a guide.
The second is a deep groove ball bearing. Serves as the upper anchor point and secures the steering shaft in the upper neck of the steering rack housing.The outlet shank has splines and a wedge groove. This is where the shaft connects to the steering column.
A plastic sleeve is placed in the rack housing. It is the second reference point when moving the staff. There are several sealing, locking and protective elements.
VIDEO
As a rule, removal or disassembly is not required for initial diagnosis. The main signs of malfunction of the steering rack are manifested in the movement of the car. Let's consider the most common ones.
1. Knock when driving through irregularities. A knock in the steering rack is manifested in loud or dull metal shocks from the front of the car, which are heard when driving over bumps in the road.
Does not always indicate a malfunction in the rail. There can be many reasons. For example, ball joint, tip, wheel bearing, strut, and so on. Many other parts of the vehicle can emit similar sounds.
2. Increased backlash of the steering wheel. It is often the result of a depletion in the steering rack. Also, this symptom manifests itself when working in tips or ball joints.
Less commonly, this symptom may be a defect in the steering shaft shank. This happens when the splines are licked off and the slot for the wedge is broken in conjunction with the steering column.
Steering rack play it is necessary to eliminate it even in its infancy, since delaying the repair time will lead to irreparable defects and the purchase of a new assembly.
3. Steering wheel wedging, stepping in rotation. When these symptoms appear, in 90% of cases, the cause will be in the steering rack.
Most often, a similar defect occurs when the anthers are damaged and water and contaminants get inside the case. The grease is partially washed out, partially clogged with dust.
Also, incorrect steering rack adjustment affects the steering wheel rotation. Overtightening the adjusting screw will inevitably affect the smoothness of movement of the steering wheel, as well as the force that must be applied to it.
4. Vehicle instability at speed. If the car behaves unstable while driving, especially on a wavy road surface or when hitting bumps, one of the reasons for this behavior on the road may be a problem in the steering rack. As a rule, it is accompanied by backlash in the steering wheel.
You can also check the steering rack by setting the wheels straight and slightly turning the steering wheel left-right to relieve tension in the steering mechanism. After that, you need to try to pull with your hand the place where the steering rods are attached to the rail up and down. If play is felt, it indicates wear in the bushing or other part of the rack.
VIDEO To dismantle, you need the following tools:
Dismantling the steering rack can be done both from the bottom of the car (from a pit or lift ) and from above through the hood. As practice has shown, it is not much more difficult to do it from above. Consider the option of dismantling without a pit or a lift.
1. Preparation. We put the car on a level surface, tighten the handbrake. To be on the safe side, we put chocks under the wheel heel.
2. Now you need to disconnect the absorber. To remove it, you must first disconnect the power chip and hoses. After that, unscrew the screw of the retaining clamp with a wrench of 8 and remove the adsorber. The rail has been accessed.
3. Disconnect the steering rods. They are fastened with two 22 bolts. To prevent spontaneous loosening, they are fixed with a plate. To remove the stopper from the bolts, bend the mustache of the plate with a flat screwdriver.
Disconnect the rods. If not removable by hand, you can help with a screwdriver.
4. Here it will not be superfluous to inspect the rubber bushings of the rods. If there are cracks or oval dents in the thrust bushing, it must be replaced, since they can be the cause of backlash or knocking.
5. From the passenger compartment, under the pedal assembly, we find the junction of the column and the steering shaft. Let's raise the carpet. A nut is unscrewed with a 10 key. Using a hammer, a fixing bolt is knocked out through a small soft metal adapter.
6.Next, you need to unscrew the nuts of the clamps securing the rail to the body. With a 13 key, 4 nuts are unscrewed, two on each side. Clamps are removed. The rack is detached from the steering column.
The rack is removed through the gap between the right or left wheel and the engine compartment.
VIDEO
1. Use side cutters or any other suitable tool to cut through the plastic clips on the sides of the guard.
The cover is then easily removed. We examine it for damage. The presence of tears or cracks is unacceptable, since through them water and dust get into the rack and pinion mechanism.
2. Side protective caps are also fastened with plastic clips. After biting the clamp, the caps are easily pulled off. They are visually inspected for damage.
3. It will not be superfluous check steering rack for wear in the gear-river pair. To do this, we hold the rail with our hand at the point of attachment of the rods and try to turn the mechanism roller left-right. Backlash can indicate wear or misalignment in this assembly.
4. For further work, you will need a specialized key for VAZ cars. It is usually sold as a dual-purpose device: on the one hand, an octagon for adjusting the rack or unscrewing the adjusting screw, on the other, for tensioning the timing roller.
If the steering rack has not been adjusted or disassembled, then it is quite difficult to turn the adjusting screw for the first time. At the factory, after adjustment, this screw is punctured.
5. After unscrewing, take out the sealing and retaining rings, the spring and the stop. The stop is one of the two points of support of the rail itself in the housing. Therefore, the performance of the entire mechanism directly depends on its state.
The working surface must be smooth, free from scoring and other damage. The O-ring must also be intact.
6. To further disassemble the steering rack, it is necessary to remove the boot of the steering gear. It fits snugly on the body, there are no special mounts. We also inspect it for cracks or any other damage.
7. Take out the lock washer. Unscrew the bearing nut. To do this, you need a special octagonal key.
Then we take out the O-ring and washer.
Next, you need to remove the steering shaft. It is not planted very tightly, so a little effort is enough.
The condition of the ball bearing is checked.
If the bearing is worn out, it must be replaced. It fits snugly on the shaft.
The old one can be knocked down with the help of a guide or by gentle blows with a hammer on the outer clip.
Press the new one through the tubular guide in a vice or on a press.
It is not recommended to hammer in a new bearing, as this will negatively affect its resource.
8. Take out the support needle bearing. To do this, carefully lift it with a screwdriver or an awl and pull it out of its seat. If it also shows signs of wear, we put a new bearing in the groove.
9. We take out the rail itself. After disassembling the steering mechanism and dismantling the stop, it easily comes out of the housing. Here it needs to be cleaned of the remnants of old grease and carefully inspected.
The teeth should be free from chips or other damage. On the rack shaft itself, there should be no scuffs and areas where metal-to-metal friction occurred. In the presence of such defects, it is necessary replacement steering rack .
10. Dismantle the bushing. To remove it, you must first slide it off the seat. Having picked it up with a flat screwdriver by the edge from one of the edges of the case, you need to slightly press it until it is disconnected from the seat groove.
After that, the sleeve can be gently crumpled in the housing and pulled out through the hole for attaching the rods.
The bushing is one of the weakest points in the steering rack design. Plastic material wears out more intensively than metal, and backlashes appear.
eleven.Replacing the steering rack bushing begins with the installation of the rings on the new bushing. After that, the sleeve is pushed through the side hole into the body until it rests against the stop collar.
Then, with a screwdriver, the sleeve is carefully tucked through the hole for attaching the rods until it is installed in its working position. Most often, the steering rack knocks precisely because of the broken bushing.
12. After disassembly, all elements are washed in a solvent or any other liquid composition for flushing oily parts.
VIDEO
For VAZ cars the only one steering rack grease , which is recommended by the manufacturer, is FIOL-1.
1. Lubrication for assembly. First, the rail and the inner cavity of the body are lubricated.
Then a generous layer is applied to the plastic sleeve.
The lubricant is placed in the needle bearing seat.
The rail is installed in the housing.
The steering gear shaft is lubricated.
The grease is heavily clogged into the bearing.
The stop is lubricated.
Screws and stoppers are installed.
Put on the casing and anthers.
2. Lubrication without removing the rack. After biting the plastic clamps, the side protective caps are removed.
For convenience and greater efficiency, you can use a syringe with a rubber hose attachment of such a diameter that you can push it between the rail and the body. The hose must be pushed from the side where the link bolts are attached.
There is a cut on the bushing at this point through which the grease will pass into the space behind the bushing and lubricate the steering gear.
How to lubricate the steering rack in the absence of FIOL:
Litol. It is the most suitable lubricant to replace the recommended one. Possesses good lubricating properties and durability.
Solid oil. Not recommended due to its tendency to dry out over time and loss of lubricating properties.
Graphite grease. For the same reason as grease, it is not entirely suitable for lubricating the rack.
VIDEO
Therefore, every failure of the steering system leads to a deterioration in driving quality, and possibly even an accident.
It is for this reason that it is important to always monitor the condition of the steering system and timely repair and service it. Today we will talk about the VAZ 2114, or rather about its steering rack.
The steering rack itself is a long rod with nozzles and two outgoing parts. The steering rack is responsible for the handling of the car and also for the safety of the driver, so if it breaks down, you should immediately start repairing.
You can understand that the rack needs to be replaced by the following signs: when you turn the steering wheel, a knock is heard and a backlash appears. In this case, the knock most often manifests itself only when driving, if it is heard when turning the steering wheel while parking, then the steering rack definitely requires immediate replacement - this means that the breakdown has started and the rack is in a critical state.
Often the rail does not require a complete replacement. The fact is that when knocks and backlashes appear, it is often possible to make a fairly quick repair, only a viewing hole is required. For DIY repairs, you need to purchase a steering rack repair kit, which is sold in three versions - from basic to advanced.
The very first step is to twist the steering rack. It is enough just to tighten the adjusting bolt using a 17 wrench.
After that, it is worth making a test drive and checking if there is any backlash and knock. If there is no more backlash and knocking, then while the work with the steering rack can be finished. If nothing has disappeared (or, for example, the backlash has disappeared, but a knock remains), then more capital work will be required.
VIDEO The part itself costs about three thousand rubles. On average, in the salon they will take 1500-2000 rubles for its replacement. Thus, in general, the entire replacement will cost about 5 thousand rubles.
First you need to stock up on the necessary set of tools:
a repair kit for the steering rack (as mentioned above, they are sold in three variations);
bearings;
grease;
the necessary keys and screwdrivers;
it is worth talking about repair kits separately.
Minimum base sets. Such sets usually have only 4 elements:
With such a set, it will be possible to fix only the simplest faults.
When buying, please note that you are purchasing a set specifically for your car (the brand is indicated on the packaging). Sometimes it happens that the car has a non-native rail, then it is necessary to purchase a repair kit for the car from which this rail was removed.
Actually, any repair must begin with disassembling the steering rack. Often the problem is just a small bearing and the entire rack does not need to be replaced.
Remove the steering rack
Unscrew the thrust nut using a 17 hexagon socket.
Remove the thrust nut, circlip, rack and pinion and spring.
Take out the boot of the drive gear shaft, and after it the circlip.
Remove the nut holding the steering gear bearing. She's walking pretty tight - that's okay.
Press out the drive pinion shaft.
Get the rail itself out of the case.
Pull out the support sleeve, then lubricate it and insert it into place (this will need to be done with force)
Replace all bearings. Some will be difficult (very difficult) to reach, so you can simply chop them up with a chisel and pull them out with pliers.
Inspect all parts for defects, replace broken ones with new ones (from a repair kit), lubricate all moving parts.
Assemble the rail in reverse order.
That's all, if you did everything right, then the rake works with a bang. It remains only to put it in its place.
VIDEO First you need to enlist the help of a partner, without him you will not be able to do everything quickly and accurately.
We install the rail in the same place and attach the fasteners.
With the help of a partner, we put the rail in the spitz.
We use a chisel to open the clamp.
We wrap the mounting bolt.
That's all, now the rail is in place, then we put the wheels, tighten the nuts and remove the car from the jack. Now you know everything you need to fix a steering rack in a timely manner. The main thing is to remember that you should not delay the repair.
The steering mechanism is responsible for the ability to change direction while driving a VAZ 2114 car. This car uses a gear-rack mechanism
Steering operation diagram
The principle of operation of this mechanism is reduced to converting the rotation of the gear associated with the drive into the transverse movement of the rack with a toothed sector. The movement of this rack is then transmitted through the steering rods to the suspension struts, which also act as steering knuckles.
These mechanisms have recently become very common due to the simplicity of their design, and are used on many cars. The simplicity of the design provides adequate reliability, however, malfunctions with the steering mechanism are quite common. ... Some of the faults can be eliminated by replacing worn-out components, but some faults lead to the fact that the replacement of the VAZ 2114 steering rack is required.
There are not so many signs of a malfunction of the steering mechanism, but each of them can indicate a different component with which problems have arisen. The signs are as follows:
Increased steering wheel free play;
The steering gear knocks;
Increased effort to turn the steering wheel;
Let's consider each of the signs, as well as what can cause them to appear. It should be noted that some problems, such as knocking, may not be related to the mechanism itself.
1. So, the free travel on the steering wheel has increased, that is, it dangles more, an increased travel may appear in addition to the appearance of a beating in the steering wheel during braking.
This problem can be associated with the weakening of the ball pins to the stabilizer rack, increased clearance in the ball joints, increased clearance between the rack and pinion.
If a backlash is found in the steering wheel, first of all, you should inspect the steering ball ends. It rarely happens, but it is possible that the tip fastening nuts have loosened and the finger has begun to protrude from the seat, due to which a significant gap has formed at the attachment point. It is easy to eliminate such a malfunction, just tighten the nuts.
Ball ends wear is much more common, resulting in a gap between the pin and the body. This problem can be eliminated by changing the tips.
Backlash in the steering wheel can be formed due to an increase in the gap between the rack and the gear. During the operation of this mechanism, these elements gradually wear out, and the gap between them increases. The repair of this problem comes down to the fact that an adjustment is required, in which you only need to correctly tighten the adjusting thrust nut.
2. A knock in this mechanism can be caused by backlash in the tips, an increased gap between the rack and the gear, as well as the weakening of the fastening of the mechanism itself.
As for the tips and rail clearance, the repair of the mechanism is indicated above, that is, it is enough to tighten the thrust nut and that's it.
Regarding the loosening of the fastening, it is enough just to tighten the fastening nuts of the clamps that hold the mechanism, and the problem will be solved.
3. Tight rotation of the steering wheel can be due to damage to the support bearing of the shock absorber (the case when a problem with the suspension affects the steering mechanism), damage to the rack bushing, wedging of the steering tips, wedging of the steering drive bearings.
In the case of a worn support bearing, the repair is reduced to removing this support and replacing the bearing.
If the reason for the tight rotation is the support sleeve, then a new one must be put in place of the damaged one, and the mechanism itself must be lubricated.
If there are problems with the tips, they should be checked and replaced if necessary. The same goes for the drive bearings.
Camber adjustment with calipers
It should be noted that after repairing many faults, it will be necessary to adjust the position of the wheels (camber-toe angles).
All work with the steering mechanism can be done with your own hands, there is nothing particularly complicated in this. But after work, especially concerning the steering tips, you will need to adjust the toe angles, which are best left to specialists.
If a malfunction occurs, first you will need to diagnose the mechanism to identify the node that caused it. First, the condition of the tips is checked. To do this, they are removed from the support and manually checked. In a serviceable tip, the finger in its body moves with effort, but it should not wedge to any position, such a tip can be put in place and continue to look for malfunctions. If it walks freely and there is a backlash, then it is replaced.
Next, the gap between the rack and the gear is adjusted. For this, a special 6-point key is used. With its help, the thrust nut is tightened up to the stop, and then loosened by ¼ of a turn. After that, the nut is fixed with a punch. If the adjustment is made correctly, and the condition of the rail is still satisfactory, then the knocking should disappear.
If the adjustment did not help, then most likely the wear of the main units is quite strong and a major overhaul of the mechanism is required with the replacement of the rail, which can also be done by hand.
Before proceeding with the repair, a repair kit is purchased. It can be small and include only bushings, oil seals, anthers, etc. There is also a large repair kit, which also includes a rail. There are a lot of firms producing such repair kits, so which one to choose is up to the owner to decide. But it is still better to choose a manufacturer who is the official supplier of spare parts for the car factory.
To make repairs, not so much is required:
Open-end wrench set;
Screwdrivers;
Rags;
Grease;
Repair kit;
The sequence of actions is as follows:
Put the car on a level surface and immobilize;
It is better to jack up the car on the left side;
Using open-end wrenches, unscrew the bolts securing the steering rods to the rail, having previously unscrewed the fixing plate;
In the cabin, under the steering column, unscrew the bolt of its attachment to the steering gear shaft;
We unscrew the 4 fastening nuts of the mechanism, after which we remove the fastening clamps;
Unscrew the bolts of the rail mustache
After all work, the toe angle must be adjusted.
Video (click to play).
The restoration of the steering mechanism is not particularly difficult, but some of the operations may cause some inconvenience, but in general it is quite possible to do everything yourself. The durability of this mechanism in the future will depend on which manufacturer of the repair kit you have chosen.
VIDEO
