DIY Toyota Corolla rail repair

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of the Toyota Corolla rail from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

I want to raise a long-standing topic, which may not be as relevant for 150 Corolla as for 120, because according to my own observations on Corolla 150 it is the rake that does not bother so much. Mainly the steering column, both flaps. nevertheless, I want to share, because the topic of steering racks, including their repair and lubrication, is relevant: officially, the rack is not repaired or serviced, but is quite expensive. In addition, there are no separate steering rods on sale, if we talk about the "original" ones.

The advice was shared by a person who works in a taxi company in Vladivostok, which acquired many of our Corollas at one time, in fact, he operated them with decent mileage.
This was not the only useful practical advice I read about. The author presented to the court a photo report on the implementation of this generally simple technique. I have just brought it up a bit to make it easy to read and download.

I will make a reservation right away that experts in the usefulness of the "oil dish" side differed in opinion. I can voice some arguments, some not Copenhagen.
In general, I invite you to discuss.

I will immediately add three points, I read the opinions:
1. The grease used in the report, TOTALLY unsuitable for Toyota steering racks
2. Too much of it was injected.
3. Tie-in made, slightly in the wrong place.

With the first I completely agree, the other two I am not ready to either confirm or dispute.

I can add from my experience in repair / lubrication of the rack on my previous car - KIA C'eed. Here are the generalized methods that I used taken from the KIA C'eed forum:

Video (click to play).

So everything that is described here takes place on most modern cars, both classmates and an auto class higher than Toyta. Before drilling the rail itself, first check the steering gear crosses that are in the cabin (if I am not mistaken, there are 2 of them), as well as the telescopic tube (it is responsible for adjusting the steering wheel for departure), in most cases it knocks there. It is also not uncommon for the plant to install crosses with increased backlash, which begin to knock after a few hundred kilometers, it also happens that the bolts fixing the crosses turn away or weaken (not all manufacturers counter them, oddly enough). The racks themselves usually begin to knock when the mileage is over 100-120 thousand km (I will make a reservation for everyone in different ways), this knock usually manifests itself when driving through pits and combs and has a dull but loud sound, while on the steering wheel it is usually not reflected in any way, that is, no knocks are felt on the steering wheel.

About lubrication. The lubricant AZMOL FIOL-1 was used, as recommended for this type of work. FIOL-1 is an NLGI 1 grade grease, i.e. has a lower viscosity at low temperatures compared to universal greases of the Litol group (NLGI 2), which undoubtedly has a positive effect on further operation. Otherwise, these greases are identical.
About the volume. 150 grams of grease on each side is quite enough (two oil cans were put). It is not necessary to hammer the entire rail to the eyeballs, the air flow inside must be maintained.

As a result, I concluded that greasing the rack does not help for long, I drove about 20 thousand after lubrication, then I simply changed the rack.
1.replacing the rail
2.Steering rack grease (Fiol-1)
4.screwing the bolt into the EUR to increase the force on the output shaft (dumb, tight steering wheel)

Undoubtedly. Separate one from the other.It's easy to do it on the pit :)
As for the Corolla 150, most of the knocks come from there, and not from the reiki itself. The rail itself knocks on the RAV-4, and on Outlenlers, and on Highlanders, and right from the salon.
On Corollas, if the rake knocks, it also knocks right away. Or a little later. As far as I read, the replacement under warranty did not give anything, in general, the author also writes about this.
On the indicated runs, knocking is already wear and tear during operation. It certainly cannot be cured by anything other than the manufacture of fluoroplastic bushings (I think this topic is familiar to you).
Knocks in the steering column, there is a place to be due to unscrewing and on the Corolla, as correctly noted, it is very simple to fix it, pulling up without any disassembly.
The intermediate shaft crosses, responsible for adjusting the overhang), cannot be treated in any way, this is for sure 🙂
There is another crash-safe folding countershaft under the hood, the same story. Two cardan shafts, and a knock at the splined joint of the folding shaft.
Also, discard the knock from the steering tips (which, in general, does not happen with the Corolla right away at low mileage), and most importantly from the bushings and anti-roll bar struts, the knocks from which are very often confused with the rail itself.

Miniatures

Images

Here are the repair costs:
Toyota 90369-19005 Bearing 714.87 r.
Toyota 04445-12150 Steering rack repair kit 2 404.09 rubles.
Toyota 90301-33003 Steering rack sealing ring 55.45 rubles.

plus a set of cut keys for 500 rubles.
The bearing could not have been changed, as it turned out, but ordered one for one.

Symptoms: knocks in the steering rack, manifested when driving through small irregularities (disease of all korollopodobnye with electric power steering).
Diagnosis of servicemen - replacing the rail (in practice, it does not help out for long and costs a lot).
Solution: replacing anything in the rail that can knock. And there are only two places knocking in such rails - the adjusting unit and in the area of the bushing located at the opposite end of the rail (in the case of right-hand drive cars - the left side of the rail). And since nothing needs to be changed in the adjusting unit, all repairs are reduced to replacing the factory bushing with a custom-made one.

Read also: Pumps for heating DIY repair

Patients: Will VS 2002 1.5 L (electric power steering!)

We climb into the pedal assembly and remove the protection from the steering shaft, unscrew it by hand, and remove it easily:

We completely unscrew the bolt securing the intermediate shaft to the crosspiece:

IMPORTANT! Put the wheels straight, remove the key from the ignition, lock the steering wheel. This is done in order to prevent, after removing the rack, turning the steering wheel by a number of revolutions more than it should be. Otherwise, a break in the wires of the "snail" of the airbag and the resulting malfunction of the latter are inevitable.

We hang out in front of the car and throw off the wheels (front enough).

Next is the removal of the steering rack. It has been proven from our own experience that it is possible to unscrew the rail fasteners without additional disassembly, but pulling out the rail is very time consuming. Do not waste time, twist the stretcher - you will save a lot of time and effort.

But first - the steering tips: take out the cotter pin, unscrew the nut, hit the place indicated below with a sharp, biting hammer blow, and the finger falls out by itself (we do it with both sides

We unscrew the subframe, 4 bolts to the body, 3 bolts in the area of the rear engine mount and 3 nuts in the same place.

After that, the subframe, together with the rack, gently (if you planned to unscrew the last bolt correctly) lowers and hangs on the levers and the anti-roll bar. Everything - the rail at a glance: unscrew:

We remove and carry to the workbench

Let's start disassembling it:
1) Remove the rubber boot.

2) Take the 12 key and unscrew the bolt shown in the photo.

3) Remove the intermediate shaft.

4) Unscrew the lock nut (used a gas wrench)

5) Unscrew the clamping cup of the rack shaft.

6) Then we put on and fix the intermediate shaft again, then take out the entire shaft with the bearing with a light blow with a copper hammer on it.

7) Turning the rail over, disassemble the adjusting unit: unscrew the lock nut with a 41 key

8) Then we unscrew the adjusting cup using any flat object, take out the spring and the pressure piston.

9) Remove the left anther, very carefully so as not to break (we draw inside along the circumference of the anther with a non-sharp object)

10) Unscrew the left rod from the rail using keys 29 and 22.

11) On the back side, we loosen the large clamp and detach the boot.

12) Take the rolling pin out of the rail, put it aside.

13) We look at the rail from the left end - we see an aluminum hold-down washer, behind it is the notorious bushing.

14) We hook the washer with a hook and knock it out, then take out the sleeve.

Here it is - the sleeve, because of which all the ailments. )

For left hand drive

Modifying a pre-made PTFE bushing according to the attached drawing.

15) On the new sleeve, we make a longitudinal cut necessary for its compression and setting in place. We orient the cut in the direction of the car's movement - in this direction the rail experiences the least stress.

16) Lubricate the sleeve and gently straighten the sleeve, check the fit of the sleeve with the free end of the rolling pin.

17) Press in the aluminum washer with a suitable head. Insert the rolling pin into place. We insert the shaft into place, for this, with a 22 key, we swing the rolling pin around its axis and at the same time push the shaft - at a certain moment the gears are aligned and the shaft falls through. We tighten the clamping sleeve of the shaft until it stops, we counter it with a lock nut. We assemble the adjusting unit, tighten the adjusting cup until it stops and release it by 90 degrees, counter nut with a counter nut. Subsequently, the tightening torque can be adjusted on the machine after a test drive with a certain skill, the mechanism must be tightened until the steering wheel returns to the straight position when exiting the turn. Pull into place, anthers into place, tighten. Rail for stretcher, stretcher for cars. Near the rear (in relation to the rear of the car) fastenings of the subframe to the body there are holes on the body and on the subframe, the combination of which excludes the removal of the caster. (holes in the photo)

Tips to the levers, set the wheels straight, the steering wheel is straight from the very beginning. We pull everything in and climb into the salon. There we loosen the upper crosspiece, move the shaft between the crosspieces up and put the lower crosspiece on the intermediate shaft. We are tightening everything. Subsequently, you can similarly align the steering wheel if, when driving straight, the steering wheel looks slightly to the side.

Some Toyota Corolla drivers complain that when driving on uneven roads, a knock is heard somewhere in the steering wheel area, while not noticing any visual manifestations of a malfunction. As a rule, this sound signals the need for repair of a steering rack Toyota Corolla. If you start to notice this kind, we advise you to start repairing as soon as possible: it is known that any problem is easier to fix in the early stages. This also applies to car malfunctions.

If there are any problems in the human body, then he notifies about it with the help of symptoms. A car is also a kind of organism that, in the event of a malfunction, sends signals to its owner. So, by what signs can you determine the malfunction of the steering rack?

Steering rack device diagram

A characteristic knock from the steering (this is a consequence of an increase in backlash - a gap at the junction of the steering rack and rod);
Leakage of fluid from the power steering (the reason is damage to the boot and corrosion of the oil seal, a possible consequence is corrosion of the shaft);
Feeling of vibration when turning the steering wheel;
Inaccuracy in control (the reason is shaft deformation);
Biting the steering wheel (after turning, the steering wheel does not return to its original position).

If you regularly observe these symptoms, we advise you to contact a service center to tighten the rail. Otherwise, the amplitudes of the backlash will increase, the knocking will become louder, which will lead to mechanical destruction of the part. The car will be less responsive to control, which can create a difficult road situation. However, the destruction of the rail is a rather long process, however, you must agree that constant knocking does not contribute to a pleasant trip, irritating and distracting the driver.

You can fix the problem of increasing backlash at any Toyota service center. You can try to fix the problem yourself, fortunately, there are a lot of materials on the Internet dedicated to how to tighten the steering rack on Toyota Corolla... However, this method of solving the problem is fraught with some nuances and is suitable only for drivers who have at least minimal experience in repairing their iron horse.

wear of the steering column bracket bearing;
failure of the shaft cross bearings;
weakening of the tightness of the connection between the bracket and the cross.

First of all, you should try to determine the location of the malfunction, that is, to determine exactly where the backlash has increased. This can be done during a visual inspection: probe all connections and test the vehicle in motion. Then, when the problem is localized, you can start disassembling the mechanism.

First of all, the car must be immobilized. Place it on the handbrake and, for reliability, install anti-rollback devices under the rear wheels.

Remove the plastic trim from the steering wheel and remove the steering wheel.

Remove the protective plate - when you do this, you will see the nut. Unscrew it and remove the steering wheel mounted on the shaft.

Free the steering column: unscrew the bracket bolts and the steering gear, remove the boot.

After the column is removed, you can proceed to repair of a steering rack Toyota Corolla 150... Examine it carefully for malfunctioning bearings and a cross, loose connections. Tighten loose connections, replace faulty parts with new ones.

Assembling the mechanism back, carry out the above manipulations in reverse order.

For Toyota Corolla 120 cars, the most common way to repair a rail is to replace a bushing. This is due to the high cost of the new part (about 20 thousand rubles). Usually, steering rack bushing Toyota Corolla 120 have to be ordered from a turner due to the almost complete absence of these in the free sale.

Before undertaking repairs, we advise you to familiarize yourself with the device of the part. Getting down to repair of the steering rack on your Toyota Corolla 102, do not forget to read videodedicated to her device.

Communities ›Toyota Club› Blog ›Steering rack repair photo report. Wonderful! I also need to do that. Hands do not reach Spring will do).

Repair of a steering rack TOYOTA COROLLA with EUR. As I do: unbuckling the lower cardan in the straight steering position and removing the keys from the ignition switch (the left hand holds the steering wheel, the right one removes the cardan), I twist the steering wheel to the left until it “closes”.

Toyota Corolla RoboJapanese ›Logbook› Do-it-yourself steering rack repair on Toyota Corolla. Before carrying out repairs, purchase a Toyota Corolla steering rack repair kit.

Obsk the stretcher beam Well, the first stage is over, it is more interesting further. Diagnosis of servicemen - replacing the rail in practice does not help out for long and costs a lot. Further, the bushing needs to be modified: This cut, when installed in the rail, must be positioned at the top and make sure that it does not fill with grease.

Steering racks Toyota Corolla How to repair the steering rack on your own Toyota Corolla photo report Full and detailed description of the rather complicated process of repairing the steering rack with the creation of a new bushing

LABELS for search engines: TOYOTA COROLLA TOYOTA COROLLA STEERING RACK REPAIR STEERING RACK E12 E12 Hello everyone again! So the promised photo report on the repair of the steering rack is ready. Let the “old-timers” forgive me for repetitions, but in the photo report I have collected all the information necessary to repair the rail, starting with the drawing of the bushing and ending with the final adjustment. All "landmarks" right-left, front-rear are given relative to the driver.

All photos, including the special keys and bushings, are posted in the photo gallery. If the “followers” have any questions, then before asking them, read the previous messages. Maybe there are already answers for example: We need a special key for disassembling and adjusting the steering rack. And the steering rack bushing, made according to this drawing or ordered by the forum member Makar: Dimensions 24.9 mm; 31.1 mm; 32 mm must be made with the maximum possible accuracy and minimum roughness.

Ideally, the marks from the turning tool should be virtually indistinguishable. I would like to draw your attention to the dimensions of the sleeve, namely the diameters of 24.9 mm and 31.1 mm. Moreover, it is useful to decrease the inner diameter and increase the outer diameter by 0. Therefore, STRICTLY adhere to the dimensions of the sleeve as shown in the drawing. Further, the bushing must be reworked: 6 longitudinal cuts are made on the bushing with a hacksaw for metal, with a depth of approx. Then, with a clerical knife, we expand the cuts and give them a wedge shape, see.

We make one cut over the entire length of the sleeve and expand it by approx. This cut, when installed in the rail, must be positioned at the top and make sure that it does not fill with grease. It should look something like this: Before starting work, be sure to disconnect the battery. The first step is to remove the steering shaft cardan, while remembering that the so-called “snail” SRS AIRBAG is installed in the steering column, designed for 5 full revolutions: If exceeded, it will break and the “SRS” light will turn on.

When installing, after setting the wheels straight ahead, “open” the ignition switch and turning the steering wheel now to the right into a straight position - I throw on the cardan.

I check the number of turns left and right, if necessary, rearrange the cardan. As a result, the steering bar in the extreme positions becomes vertical, I don’t remember the number of revolutions, I just set the symmetry, and accordingly, the turning radius to the right and left will be the same.

Also, do not forget to unfasten the boot latches, it will look something like this: When working, follow safety precautions. And it's better to work together. To remove the steering rack, do the following: Unpin the nuts securing the steering tips to the steering knuckle, and with a sharp hammer blow, disconnect the steering tip.

When working, observe safety precautions, in particular, when unscrewing the bolts in the movement "away from you", keep your palm open, in this case, if the key comes off, you will not bump your fingers, oh, how many of them were broken In red and yellow circles, those bolts which must be unscrewed on the dorestyle.

On the 120th Corolla, the steering rack was sorted out with the replacement of the bushing. 2006 typewriter, automatic, 1.6l engine, Turkish assembly.
Be sure to fix the steering wheel in the position (wheels straight), otherwise we risk breaking the train on the SRS Airbag, detaching the battery. We look under the steering wheel, remove the panel, remove the boot.

We unscrew the two bolts for 12 fastening the cardan to the shafts (it is better to unscrew both, it will be easier to throw off the cardan), throw off the cardan and unhook the boot latches. After that, do not turn the steering wheel so as not to inadvertently break the SRS Airbag train.We throw off the cardan, unhook the bootWe raise the car, take off the wheels. Next, unscrew the nut that secures the steering tip to the steering knuckle, unscrew it, to disconnect the tip, hit the steering knuckle ear with a hammer (in no case on the tip) we do the same on the other side.Disconnect the steering tipThen we unscrew the four bolts securing the bracket of the subframe (beam), on one side, and then on the other side.By the way, on post-styling Japanese and English women, this bracket is not, there are just two bolts, one on each side.Now you need to unscrew on the subframe (beam) two bolts for 14, one bolt for 17 and three nuts for 14, two of them are hidden in the subframe (beam)Bolts, nuts 14 and 17Then we unscrew the four nuts securing the rail to the subframe (beam), for this it is necessary to hold the bolts on top of the rail with a key of 14 bolts, and from the bottom with another key of 14 to unscrew the nuts, they can of course be unscrewed later on the lowered subframe (beam), but for me personally it is more convenient so. By the way, on post-styling Japanese women and English women, these nuts are also not there, there simply are bolts on top of the rails, and the nuts are already welded inside the subframe (beam), in this case it is more convenient to unscrew their frame later on the already lowered subframe (beam).We unscrew the last two nuts securing the subframe (beam), one on each side. By the way, on post-styling Japanese and English women, there will be bolts instead of these nuts.Carefully lower the subframe (beam) and take out the rail.Well, the first stage is over, more interesting).
We put the rail on the workbench and begin to disassemble, remove the boot and the steering column shaft.Then, we pull off the anthers and unscrew the steering rods.They took off the anthers, unscrewed the rodsCarefully pull out the oil seal and use a special key to unscrew the nut with an internal octagonPulled out the oil seal, unscrewed the nutWe unscrew the clamping nut locknut and the clamping nut itselfUnscrew the locknut and the clamping nutWe take out the shaft with the bearingWe take out the rail from the caseWe take out the old bushing on the right side from the rack housing.We take out the old sleeveWe insert a new sleeve made of black fluoroplastic.Applying not hefty efforts, we push the rail into the case from the right side (where the new bushing is).We shove it back, we have to tinkerAnd we collect everything in reverse order.
We insert the shaft with the bearing, tighten the octagonal nut, press in the oil seal, tighten the clamping nut all the way and release it by about 45 degrees, then tighten the locknut. We will make the final adjustment after a test drive, or leave it that way, or let it go a little if the steering wheel does not return in turns.Be sure to core the octagonal nut, fasten the steering rods (do not forget about the thread glue), put the shaft back and put on the bootThat's it, the rail is ready for installation on the machine, the assembly is also in reverse order. After the final assembly, we go to check that the steering wheel returns when cornering, if it does not return, we look under the car and slightly loosen the clamping nut, do not forget to lock it then. After that, we go to adjust the descent. And we enjoy the silence.Repair always starts with a breakdown. The symptoms of the breakdown were strong rattling of the steering wheel, vibration and knocking.Quite expensive and time-consuming tuning with the replacement of the steering column of the Toyota Corolla 120 can be done both at a service station for cars of the Toyota family, and in your own garage with your own hands. But, before embarking on "all serious", you need to make sure that the cause of extraneous knocks that give off to the steering wheel and the body is precisely the malfunction of the steering rack.In the experience of motorists described in the article, there are also easier repair methods.Switch off the engine and start shaking the steering wheel from side to side with a swing of about 5-7 cm. If you hear a tapping sound, then the reason is the steering system mechanisms. However, if the knock resembles, as it were, a tapping somewhere very close under the steering wheel, then this is the sound of an electrical loop. You shouldn't pay attention to it.The steering mechanisms of Toyota Corolla include a steering column, cardan shafts, as well as the steering rack itself with rods and tips. It is better to determine the failure of an individual mechanism by the elimination method.First you need to exclude the malfunction of the handpieces as the cause of the knocking. An assistant is needed here. When he gently shakes the steering wheel on the sides, you need to alternately grab the tips with your palm. In a defective hinge with a large backlash requiring repair, the sound will be felt with the palm of your hand.The steering column itself or the shaft extending from it to the rail practically fail very rarely. The steering rack suffers much more with high mileage. In addition, it rusts a lot from damp and salt. This can also cause its premature failure.One of the cheapest ways to restore the Toyota Corolla steering rack is to repair it without dismantling it. For this operation, you need to stock up on an M6 grease nipple with a rubber cap for it and 400 g Mannol grease. Image - DIY Toyota Corolla rail repair

The figure shows two grease fittings with caps, but one must be selected for this repair. One for which there is both a drill and a tap.

Next, you need to drive the car into a hole, organize a good lighting at the location of the steering rack. In the rail itself, choose a place where you can get close with a drill, a threading tool and a syringe press.

In the selected place, we first drill a hole, then we try to extract as much as possible from it the chips and metal crumbs formed during drilling. To do this, you can use a vacuum cleaner and all kinds of wire hooks with strips of rags.

Moreover, we do the drilling very carefully so that after the moment of passing the rail body, the drill does not go deeper and does not damage other parts.

We cut the threads and screw the oil can into the hole. To prevent spontaneous unscrewing of the oiler during further operation, you can apply a thread lock to its threaded part before screwing in. This composition is sold in any car dealership. Buy the smallest volume of those offered.

Then, using a syringe press, fill the column with grease.

The amount of lubricant for repairs was taken arbitrarily - 400 g. Wipe the surface of the rail next to the oiler, put a rubber cap on it. It is noticed that the steering wheel is getting a little heavier, but the knocks of the rail are no longer audible.

This repair can be considered universal for most cars, both for the Toyota Corolla 120 and for models of the Toyota family of later and higher class models.

And yet, before the decision is made to drill the rack housing, you need to check for play in two more steering gear crosses, which are located in the cabin under the steering wheel. Another source of knocking can be a telescopic tube that regulates the reach of the rudder. Quite often, the knocking comes from these parts, and it will be very offensive when, when doing all the work on stuffing grease into the rail, the knocking does not stop.

Sometimes crosses with large backlash are installed directly at the factory, and they begin to knock after a short run. Despite the brand name of the car, sometimes the knock can be caused by the bolts to fix the crosspieces on the shaft. They are often not locked, they turn away and knocks occur in these joints.

It is the steering racks of the Toyota Corolla that begin to knock and usually require repair only after a run of more than 100 thousand kilometers. First of all, the knock begins to be heard when the wheels hit the bumps in the road - potholes and bumps. This sound is quite loud, but with a dull tinge and does not give off to the steering wheel, vibration shocks are not felt with your hands.

For this type of service of the Toyota Corolla 120 steering rack, the recommended lubricant is AZMOL FIOL-1. If we compare it with Litols, then it wins a lot, since it belongs to the NLGI 1-class and is characterized by low viscosity even at low temperatures.In addition, this grease does not contain molybdenum disulfides, which can adversely affect the polymer elements of the steering rack.

I bring to your attention a photo report on the repair of the steering rack of a 2001 Toyota Corolla, 120th body with a right-hand drive.The need to replace the bushing was signaled daily by a terrible clang and clatter when driving over small bumps / irregularities (there are plenty of them in our city).So:
1. We drive the car into the garage, turn the wheels straight. We fix the steering wheel with a seat belt against turning. Car on jacks. Removing the front wheels.2. Unscrew the stretcher. Bolts and nuts are marked in red.3. And one more subframe bolt on each side.4. Unscrew the steering end nuts on each side and unscrew the nuts. Image - DIY Toyota Corolla rail repair

We get such a picture

Then carefully remove the steering tips from the steering knuckle. Ideally a puller. I used a hammer because the tips were going to change.

5. On the right side under the steering wheel, remove the plastic protection. There are two clips (marked in red).

6. Unscrew the bolt securing the intermediate shaft and bend the boot latches (indicated by arrows). We make marks on the shaft!

7. The subframe is lowered by holding on to the ball joints and stabilizer struts.

8. Unscrew the 4 bolts securing the steering rack.

10. Remove the boot and unscrew the intermediate shaft. Making labels!

11. Using a gas wrench, unscrew the lock nut.

12. With these "thin-nose pliers" the nut is perfectly unscrewed.

13. Remove the anthers from the steering rods.

14. Turn off the steering rods.

The rail is held with a 22 key. The rod is unscrewed with a 32 key. There were no lock washers.

15. Using a gas wrench, unscrew the adjusting nut locknut.

I unscrewed everything together.

16. We remove the spring and the pusher.

17. Pull the shaft out with a little effort by hand.

19. On the left side of the rack housing, behind an aluminum retaining ring, the hero of the occasion is hidden - a plastic sleeve.

20. I removed this circlip using this bolt and two (inserted into each other from the tool kit extension).

With a large bolt head, he hooked on the edge of an aluminum sleeve, and inside he hit the bolt with a metal extension (he hit the extension with a hammer).

The sleeve flew out in 3 light blows.

22. We clean everything. Here you can see the inner bearing.

23. After global cleaning, grease the rail. I used this one.

24. Insert a new bushing. I put the original one. From fluoroplastic, etc. I didn’t find it, maybe they would be more durable, although I don’t know.

We put a retaining ring on top of the installed sleeve.

And press in with a suitable size head.

25. Insert the rail and shaft. We tighten the nut and locknut onto the shaft.

26. Put back the pusher, the spring and tighten the adjusting nut.

27. We fasten the steering rods. I used a thread lock (blue, split).

29. Clamps are perfectly tightened with pliers.

30. We tighten the steering tips (the left and right are different).

31. Reassemble in reverse order + trip to camber / toe.

Any unit and mechanism in a car has a certain service life, which can be significantly reduced under constant loads and improper use. One of the elements that is most exposed to wear is the steering column, which is constantly in use due to the turns of the steering wheel. On Toyota Corolla, a knock in the steering column indicates a malfunction in the control system and requires an early search for the causes of its occurrence and, if possible, eliminate it.

As with most modern cars, the Corolla uses the front wheels to control the direction of travel. They are steering, and they are controlled by the steering gear and the drive. The steering column connects the wheels to the steering system.

The features of the steering rack of the Toyota Corolla in the 120 body, as in the 150th, as well as in cars manufactured in 2001, 2002, 2003, are similar, and most often the faults are of the same nature, the diagnostic and repair scheme.