DIY watch strap repair

In this video I will tell you how to change the strap or how to fix the strap holder on your wristwatch with your own.

Replacing the watch strap. Lange. Instruction.

A video on what to do if the loop of the watch strap is broken.

In this video, I tell you how to replace the strap on an LED watch from silicone to a regular one made of leather. ...

Shown is a very simple and effective way to repair the lock of a metal watch bracelet.

Dremel Rivets https://ali.ski/sOdBy Men's watch https://ali.ski/tQ3VTo Dremel Accessories https://ali.ski/edPew Soldering station.

A video for those who do not want to spend extra money! Everything is easy and simple! ”Individual tailoring of leather accessories.

Making your own belt is very simple

In addition to leather, you need a tool

You can cut the strips with a simple knife. Cut along a ruler, having previously clamped a piece of leather with a clamp.

This tool is designed to cut a layer of leather, before hemming, gluing.

After that, the strips of leather are smeared with glue and glued together under the press:

Having previously placed the inner layer, if required by the thickness of the skin:

The glued belt is trimmed, the end is cut off:

After that, we outline the place of the future seam.
A thread groove is cut with a special cutter:

The puncture points are marked with an awl, under the seam:

Then the belt is sewn, starting and ending at the case, you need to make the same number of turns:

So that he does not "lead", stitched together clamped in a vice:

Do not forget about the "straps", inner at the buckle and movable:

Traces of not quite dried glue can be “wiped off” with a piece of rubber or an eraser.

This is a free translation of the article of the gentleman with a nickname X-treme.
I cannot give a link to the article (registration is required) and the focus of the site contradicts our Forum Rules.

Once I bought myself a Diesel watch. A year and a half passed without removing, and the strap came to an end. After searching a little, I realized that I would not find a strap suitable for the style. Therefore, I decided to make it myself, at the same time I decided to photograph the process in order to show you later how I did it.

So, we need:

1. Genuine leather (without lacquer coating) in two thicknesses of 2 mm and 1.2 mm (ideally).

2. Waxed cord (or thick threads, you can wax it yourself).

3. Blunt needles 2 pcs. (you can buy needles for the tapestry).

4. Punches 3 mm and preferably 2 mm. It is also very good to have a rectangular pin in size (the tongue is at the buckle). But you can do without a rectangular one.

5. Lower case punches (fork, step). In extreme cases, it can be replaced with an awl, but it is better to sharpen it with a spatula (diamond).

6. Stationery knife. But it is better to use black "Olfa" Japanese blades. But this is at will and possibilities 🙂

10. Wooden slicker. Or a wooden attachment for a drill or a motor from a household sewing machine. It is easy to carve it yourself on the same drill from any dense tree (apple tree, oak). In fact, it is a cylinder with grooves for different wood thicknesses.

11. Moment type rubber glue. 88 extra strong, etc.

12. A piece of beeswax.

13. Shoe polish transparent (colorless) in the composition, basically, there should be different waxes and paraffins.

14. Sandpaper on the frame. 140-200 to taste.

In fact, that's all. Well, a drill and a drill - ideally.

First you need to measure the size of the watch and buckle in order to make the right patterns.
For an example of what is usually taken into account when measuring, see the drawing of the PANERAI watch strap.

Next, we cut out 2 straps from a thick 2 mm leather according to our patterns. And the ends, which we will wrap, grind (remove a layer of skin) with a well-sharpened knife.

In the end, this is what you should get.

Now you need to cut 2 straps from a thin 1.2 mm leather. But we cut the meek one right away to size, and the long one with a large margin. Because on the long strap, we will carefully cut off the excess with a knife and both skins will be adjusted to size from the ends, and the short one will have to fall into size right away due to the belt loop (we will not be able to trim the excess skin later). Then we smear both skins - let the glue air for a few minutes and glue them together.

As we connect our pieces of leather, you need to tap everything thoroughly with a hammer, for a stronger adhesion.

While everything is glued / dries up, we have a rest, drink green tea with jasmine from our gaiwan 🙂

The next step is waxing the cord.

I chose a black cord to blend in with the dial.

The design of the strap you plan will determine how much you have to sew 🙂 I decided to do it in a minimalist style and planned decorative seams in key places.

In order to sew by hand in 2 needles (saddle stitch), you need to punch the holes with a lowercase punch.
This is what it looks like.

If you do not have a lowercase punch, then you can either make it yourself (for example, from a fork), or do not bother and carefully do everything with an awl or punch with a 1 mm punch.

Also, do not forget to punch a hole for the peg with a rectangular (or round) punch. Then "take out" it with a knife, as shown in the photo.

I decided to add decorative perforation to the design of my strap. To do this, I marked the points with an awl according to the template, along which I then punched holes with a hole punch. In the middle - 3 mm, from the edges - 2 mm.

Here you have to try. Gently grind the ends of the leather with sandpaper on the rig. It is necessary to align the ends and grind sharp edges. Who is lucky, like me, and you will have a drill with a nozzle, in general, they will not know troubles 🙂 After all the ends are aligned and take on the required appearance, we proceed to the waxing stage.

For this, as I wrote above, we use a wooden slicker or an attachment for a drill / drill / sharpener / engine from a household sewing machine.

We also rub the nozzle / slicker with wax at low revolutions (there are pedals on the engines of household sewing machines - very convenient 🙂 we polish the ends of the straps.

Afterwards, take a wax-based shoe polish and rub the edges of the straps with a cloth or a piece of felt. At the edges, three stronger / faster and with more wax, towards the center - vice versa. Thus, we achieve a smooth stretch. For beginners in this business, I highly recommend practicing on unnecessary pieces of skin.

Now we are preparing from an oak chop - a slicker for holes. Just grind the tip on a drill and cover with wax. Then we polish them, with wax, our holes in the straps.

We punch holes with a punch (rectangular or round) for the buckle pin.

Next, you need "ponies for sewing leather." I made them in haste from 2 oak scraps, which I saw from a neighbor in the workshop 🙂 In fact, these are 2 planks, which with their “lips”, pasted over with leather, will clamp our workpiece. You can clamp the boards with a clamp or a powerful clothespin.

But even without boards, and without clamps, and without "ponies" you can do. You will just sew longer and it will be inconvenient.

In blunt needles, you need to properly tuck the cord. We insert into the eyelet, and then we pierce the end of the cord 1, 2 or 3 times. Then we tighten and remove the “waves” from the needle. As I showed in the photo.

Then we insert the needle into the extreme hole of the future line and stretch the thread to the middle. Now we insert one needle a quarter into the second hole and immediately, on the meeting, insert the second needle. Then we tighten the cord. Also into the next hole and into the next.

When the last stitch is sewn, the needle that is on the front of the strap steps back into the stitch and exits from the wrong side of the strap. There we cut off the needles, leaving 3-4 mm of the cord sticking out.

Now we gently set them on fire with a lighter and, while they are hot, press them to the table. In this way, sealed caps are obtained, like those of nails.

We do the same wherever we have seams.What we have:

I decided to push back the logo still 🙂
Perhaps you will have a metal pendant, letter, or any suitable pattern - you can easily push it back onto the skin (it is important to understand that it will be transferred in a mirror image!). To do this, you can slightly moisten the skin, where we will press, and put our cliché / detail in this place. Then we press it with a heated iron and swing it on different sides, pressing it as hard as possible, so that all sides of our embossing are well printed.

Results.

Well, in general, something like that.
As many asked - a master class on how to make something worthy of leather "at home on your knees." I assure you, this is the case 🙂
If anyone has any questions or wishes, please write. If possible, I will answer everyone.

The strap on my old watch was worn out and I decided to make a new one. Master class on making a watch strap.

We need: 1. Vegetable tanned leather 2.3 mm; 2. Pork skin; 3. Nairite glue; 4. Waxed thread; 5. Paint; 6. Fittings from the old strap.

Tools: 1. Knife; 2. Seam punch; 3. Tortsbil; 4. Stamp for embossing.

We take the ears and buckle from the donor. We start by making a piece. The old strap was 240 mm long, I am making a new one 250 mm (10 mm for the buckle fold). The ears will be attached to separate elements, which we make along the strap width of 22 mm.

We cut out our elements from vegetable-tanned leather: a strap, 2 fastenings for the ears, and a strip from which we will make a belt loop.

We cut a groove under the seam with a cutter.

We moisten the workpieces with water and hammer the details with a stamp for the background. Here's what happens:

On the inside of the strap, I glued a thin lining leather (pork in my case)

Punch holes under the seam.

1 photo: I applied paint and let it dry.

Photo 2: active polishing in order to highlight the relief.

Photo 3: applied varnish and polished.

(Photos 1 and 3 do not differ much, live - the difference is noticeable).

The first step is to assemble the lug mountings and insert them into the watch.

We sew the belt itself along the contour, use a waxed thread, sew with a saddle stitch.

Install the buckle by punching a hole 8-9 mm from the edge of the belt, from the side where the buckle will be, turn the leather and stitch it. We can immediately supply a belt loop, we make the length so that it covers 2 belts.

We sew the watch to the strap, having previously evenly marked the holes with an awl.

The strap is ready. It remains only to punch holes for the buckle with a 2 mm punch.

Photo of finished work

I hope you enjoyed it and find it useful.

It always seemed to me that old people wear such straps. Because my grandfather always wore a watch with such a strap. BUT looks gorgeous in my opinion. And if you also made it yourself, then it is doubly valuable and more pleasant to wear or receive as a gift. +1

I also like these, I wear most of all, so to speak, everyday.

Watch lovers club “Nedelka”? It’s 5 o'clock in front of the units, haven’t gotten to Fossil’s yet?

Here's something like this) with fossils, if I'm not mistaken, it all started with me

If the second from the left is the Seiko Astron SSE079J1 (black), the second from the right is the Skagen SKW6016 (brown)

what about the first in the second row?

Does it seem to me or that such a box for storing watches provokes the purchase of more and more new ones?

Not even seiko for sale? I saw them literally two weeks ago in Japan in the Big Camera, they are probably sold somewhere else.

The first in the second row are the most common mondaine 42 mm 🙂

Yes, I constantly look in the direction of the windows 🙂 Since the moment I took this photo, several more have appeared.

There are also brown Panerai 🙂 But the price is prohibitive.

I ran through jomashop for the sake of interest, there are a lot of browns, but I have not come across a combination of a brown dial and a minimalist design. Well, the price, of course, plays an important role

I thought maybe you can make your own dream strap. This post was at the top of Google.

I want this type, but in the stores all are some kind of glossy, processed

what is an emergency response? emergency protection?

well let's see what good they have

It seems to me that in a relatively large city there will be several such craftsmen.I came across these just by the tag #kozhakaliningrad

ZVCh, sealed 🙂 Zlatoust diving watch 192 series. If you google them, some of the first links to LJ will be my posts about how I tried to buy them)

The guy has two profiles - personal and work.

But again, I ordered only two purses, the quality is excellent, without gloss. Such a harsh option.

So in the end, the purchase of the ZVCh watch took place? in LJ as if not

My espat boss said that we Russians put flasks everywhere 🙂

I still want to make a case for the watch, but it's more difficult with leather, I will do it from wood / fabric.

And this was bought a long time ago on ebay

And let those who took out a mortgage, got married and are addicted to alcoholism envy!

Are you hinting at me now? Only I haven’t married yet, but soon. I have 12 hours just almost all from china. One watch ERSHOV England, my future wife gave it for the new year.

fossil? clock? well, yes, well, yes, hours, of course. And was it worth fucking so hard for this? No, respect for straight arms, although it is a little crookedly done, but the watch itself does not stand there over the strap.

The strap is good, no one argues. Only slightly crooked cut. If you pay attention to the edge, you can see it. This is not a disaster, just a statement of fact. Criticism should be taken constructively and as a development zone, and not as a personal grievance 🙂

And at the expense of watches, well, I don’t know, maybe I’m a little prude, but I don’t know how to admire a watch made of metal of unknown quality, with an unnamed (most likely Chinese) quartz movement, and mineral glass, which scratches very well.

Also manage to collect it. Guys, you're sorry, of course, but no.

My humble opinion is that this and similar watches are real shirpotrebovskaya crap.

I do not impose on anyone, but I have the right to express.

Dude, are you writing to the author or to me? Why are you answering me? I have an original old-style watch in the photo, I have been looking for them for a year, because they are cool. Why should I at least somehow perceive criticism that does not apply to me at all?

Well, you suggested that I find a model by search. I found 🙂

Cool? How? Design? Very much an amateur.

But in a watch, design is far from the main thing. What's the main thing? That's right - the mechanism and materials. Neither one nor the other in this model is not even close.

Consumer goods of extremely dubious quality. That is why I answered you.

Yes, cool in design - the execution of such a dial is rarely found anywhere. They are not in order to dive into the depths with them or test their strength, but for the image once a month. For this, collections are collected. To jerk off to the mechanisms, I have another watch, how I will put it on to dudes with fossils on the Internet, I start to write, proving that their straps are clumsy and their watches are Chinese. Dada 🙂

Well, well, you are full of sarcasm))

Why think in absolute terms right away? Only the Sith make everything absolute.

Sometimes using quality things is not a "jerk off" but a position in life, but collectors probably don't understand this.

By the way, I did not say that the strap is clumsy. The edge is only slightly crooked. But I understand you, for heightened effect and drama, it was necessary to say something sarcastic.

I wish you to grow up to collecting good things) Develop, good luck)

But where are we to you, we must first comprehend the Zen of inappropriate ellipsis, then somehow I will outgrow, and from my Astron seiko I will go to Panerai and then I’ll just come off to those who know nothing about watches and wear sloppy cut edges.

Casio watches forum → ProTrek, SGW → Crazy pens, or repair of a plastic strap

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• RnDeN
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• Registered: 2013-12-12
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Probably many have met with a situation where after a few years of wearing the watch is in perfect order, and the plastic strap begins to crack, usually at the fastening point.

Of course, the easiest way is to simply replace it.But sometimes a new strap costs a lot of money! As, for example, in my case, for the Casio PRG-70 model, about 2000 rubles - both on the ebee and in the internet store, the strap (this is in June, and now, after the jump in the dollar, so in general PPC).
Therefore, I preferred to buy a new watch - Casio PRG-270.
But all the same, the old dear to me as a memory - many where they have been with me for 7 years and I really wanted to keep them in working order so that I could sometimes wear them. I decided to try to fix the strap beautifully.

Carved out the cracked section

Connected with brackets from a stapler

Crimped a heat-shrinkable tube at the junction

The watch is now wearable again!

It seems to have worked out well, but what do you think?
Of course, the length of the strap has decreased by two holes, but it is enough for my middle hand - even enough to do the same operation again!

• Serg
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I think that the collective farm is hellish. Shokam would probably goO... Protrack - xs. However, if the watch itself also looks like a battle, then maybe.
But the main thing is the result! It has been achieved, which cannot but rejoice.

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• casio-fan
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Oh epta))). Well, at least there is a result, but in appearance.

• RnDeN
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Oh epta))). Well, at least there is a result, but in appearance.

So I do not pretend to be an aesthetic appearance! Moreover, this watch is not for beauty, but for hiking! In addition, this section of the connected strap is very difficult to notice from the side!
If only the functionality is preserved. What has been achieved!

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Casio watches forum → ProTrek, SGW → Crazy pens, or repair of a plastic strap

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A good quality leather watch strap with your own hands is not difficult to make. You just need to know the basic techniques of leather processing. The techniques and subtleties of working with leather will be discussed further.

To make a strap you will need:

pieces of leather of different thickness;

leather dye or wax;

leather polishing tool or fine sandpaper.

Step 1... Cut two strips out of the leather pieces. Their width should correspond to the mount on the watch itself. The length of the straps should match your wrist. Multiply the length by two, as the leather strips will fold in half.

Fold one of the strips so that one side overlaps the other by 2 - 3 cm. Rub the mute folds with sandpaper, this will come in handy in further work.

Step 2... The fold of the leather strip on the back should be slightly reduced. To do this, carefully cut off a part of the skin from the wrong side with a clerical knife.

Step 3... Shape the ends of the straps. In order not to cut directly on the skin and thereby not spoil it, you can draw the shape of the workpiece in advance on paper and then transfer it to a strip of leather.

Step 4... To make an even groove along the edge of the strap, a small device was made in the form of a chisel, fastened with a rubber band to a part of the handle case. The handle rests against the edge and a groove is made along the entire length of the strap by light pressure.

With a chisel or a special roller tool, it is necessary to mark the seam holes along the groove. The chisel needs to be gently tapped with something hard, and the roller tool will mark the holes with just more pressure.

Step 5... Cut the inside of the strap out of a thick piece of leather. Attach it to the strap itself, leaving a small gap between the edge of the thick piece of leather and the marks on the strap.

Glue a piece of thick leather to the strap from the inside. Don't use a lot of glue, it can make the skin too tough. Glue the strap completely, try not to stretch the skin at the same time.

Step 6... Do the same with the second part of the strap. Cut a hole on the piece of leather left in advance for attaching the fastener.

Step 7... Sew both straps by inserting the awl into the pre-marked holes.

Step 8... Finish the edges of the straps. To do this, rub them with sandpaper or a sharpening stone specially sharpened under the strap.

Step 9... Rub the edges of the leather straps with leather dye. You can also use wax instead.

Step 10... Punch holes in the strap with a hole punch.

Attach the straps to your watch and enjoy wearing them.

Where to begin. Some notes from Bogdan J.

This is purely the experience of an amateur who has never been a professional watchmaker. Accordingly, all this is suitable for the amateur. A professional is dear to the school. They will teach everything there.

Start with Pinkin. Or from Troyanovsky. In general, there are books on the topic of clock repair. Download and print. Okay, there is no Internet - everyone will do it for you in any Internet cafe. You must have a book. It can get expensive but well worth it. This book is a guide for the layperson who should be able to understand at least something from this book. Almost our case. I have never done anything like that - and here it was.

Let's make some additions with the amendment for today for those who are pinned.

Screwdrivers. Start simple.

Chinese. I use it. I sharpen it. As for Chinese screwdrivers - look where on the streets watch batteries are changed and batteries and watch straps are sold. Or in the most ordinary households. A set of screwdrivers for small jobs.

You take a screwdriver. If it turns out to be too soft and bends when trying to unscrew something, put a candle next to the screwdriver. You heat the blade of a screwdriver and quickly into wax. This is hardening. Then you take a small stone and sharpen it along Pinkin.

More cool - in a machine on a diamond disc. But it will be later. When the tool and machines appear. Stones are well suited for finishing.

Tweezers (for starters - medical eye tweezers will do).

An alternative is to get acquainted with a radio bazaar (if Moscow - it seems Gorbushka - where they sell radio components, radio stations and computer gadgets) - see the boxes where the instrument is sold. You will be greatly surprised by the abundance. Good tools are surprisingly expensive. Tweezers shapes - see Pinkin. I'm not talking about big watch shops. They would rather be beaten than sold at a normal price. They do not want to breed competitors. And if they do, the prices are simply unrealistic. Doesn't fit into any gate.

There is also a radio bazaar - Galosha gasoline. Wash. It is much drier than kerosene and white spirit.

You take sticks (like Chinese) - finger length - to taste. You stick fishing steel 3-4 cm long into the end - it can be thicker and thinner. 0.1 - 0.15 mm. This is for the fishermen. One meter is enough for 10 years of work.

The very tip with one blow of a hammer (through a punch or a hard piece of iron) is splashed on a hard anvil. You get a little spatula. You make 3-4 of these with different blade sizes and different steel diameters. This will replace butter dosing. As anvils, I use either a roller made of a large bearing or carbide plates for a lathe - your way to the flea market or to friends in the workshop.

In approximately the same way - they will come in handy for a start - sticks with ordinary sewing needles - while the hands are frightened and there are no good tweezers - to expose the details (gears in stones, screws, etc.) is an auxiliary tool.

Surgical clamps. Different. Very handy as small and strong pliers. They are usually bought on occasion at a flea market.

Dental spatulas. It is convenient to use in all cases as an auxiliary tool.

Enema. Rubber. From the pharmacy. Big. Blow off dust. The tip must be rubber.

Butter. Or in the workshop (if they don't beat you, although they usually look like rams and pretend that they don't understand what you are talking about at all and are trying to get you off as quickly as possible). Or maybe at a radio store - in the same place where solder and acid are sold. Oil MN-30, MN-45 or watch oil. Although it is not aerobatics, it will go for a start.

It is better to keep it in a dark heavy box - and the sun will not burn and there is less chance that it will turn over.

To open the cases - a large, broken medical tweezers. It is clear that this is not kosher - but it is also possible. Likewise - an old caliper. You just need to correct the edges of the jaws - so that they are more rectangular.

Scalpel - opening of enclosures.

Binocular loupe. It is relatively inexpensive, but without it it is better not even to start. Or photographic goods (classic - where telescopes and binoculars are sold) or a radio bazaar. There are different strengths. If you have money, take two. One is 1.5 times, one is the strongest one sold - it seems up to 2.5 times. They can be sold with an elastic band - you will have to redo them to fit a hard bezel. You can go and talk to the optics workshop - glasses. Maybe they will offer something like pince-nez. Regarding ordinary magnifiers - to my taste - I rarely use them. It turned out to be extremely useful for cutting off the baby's nails - they were not visible at all for the first six months, but it was necessary to cut them off.

Binocular - microscope. Yes. Old. Look. The oldest is MBS-1. It is with a straight image - not upside down - which is what we see. It should cost within $ 50. A very useful thing. In every way. Up to the point that you rip the scrap out of your finger. But this is on occasion and over time. MBS-10 or OGMZ is steeper - the distance from the object to the eyepiece is greater, it is clear that it is more expensive. But all the same, an ordinary screwdriver does not fit under the MBS-10 - it must be shortened. Although on the Site of the Lytkarinsky plant - the manufacturer of MBS-10, there is a link that they sell lenses for MBS-10 with a distance to the object - about 19 cm.This can be a good solution if we got MBS-10. Everything between MBS-1 and MBS-9 is the same. Over time, the lens can be altered by yourself. You take what is cheaper. It's closer to the flea market. The only thing is that it is desirable that there is an illuminator (transformer + light bulb).

All that is further from the instrument - only after evisceration for 4-5 hours.

Where to get a watch - make yourself a fashion to be at a flea market - everything floats there. Often they simply sell mechanisms there. For instance:

When you warm up a little - after buying a binocular microscope - there is also a radio bazaar, shops with tools - they usually sell ultrasonic cleaners. But here is also the question - is it necessary. 50 years before that they did not use them - they took a bath and washed the parts with a brush in gasoline. You can do it, but the weight is not bad. Should cost in the range of $ 50-80. Denatured alcohol and Galosha gasoline were poured into an ultrasound of 30 watts. Working. Does not flash. Washes like a beast, but all the same, sometimes you have to rip something off with a toothpick. At the bazaar, they say that 30-watt sinks - indestructible - work without problems and there is no return due to marriage. If the model is the same as in the figure - what should be done after purchase - disassemble completely (there may be moisture inside, one of the indicators is stylish clicks when working against a background of uniform sound), squeeze the metal tank out of the case and put it back on the Auto Sealant (white , ours, not on transparent silicone). Plumbing does not work - it is highly corrosive. One of the indicators of plumbing is a strong vinegar smell.

Yes, I forgot, a flea market - look for Petri dishes - or maybe in a pharmacy or in a laboratory at a hospital. But you are not their client - there is an expensive flea market - this is the very thing. These are flat round glass or plastic low trays - for details. They are cheap. Take 5 pieces for the current dismantling works. I like glass more - they are heavier, fidget less on the table.

Then, for convenience, in the offices that make business cards, you can sometimes roll up and buy boxes for business cards. Wholesale will cost within $ 0.30 pcs. Transparent ones are also a very convenient thing - but this is for longer storage.

Silica gel. Small bags that are put into new fashionable shoes, equipment, computer components. Absorbs water. It must be dried either in the microwave or at a good temperature - in an electric oven. Gas does not pass - when the gas burns, water is released.After drying, the bag is placed in a box in which small tools and spare parts are stored for a long time so that they do not rust.

Radio bazaar. Snap-on pouches - they sell in the hundreds. Size 4 X 6 cm. Place watches and small items. They are usually packed with small pieces that are sold in the bazaar.

To begin with, the wristwatch can be laid down on the grinder mesh during disassembly. Then you yourself will determine what you need and how it is more convenient for you. The stand can be machined from brass. Should be heavy enough.

Take a coil from any old starter from electricians - try asking for 380 V. If not, by 220 V. You attach the wires - the demagnetizer is ready. Turn on only for a short time - it gets warm.

About a new instrument. It is not always worth the money. Think how to get out with what you have. It is needed if you make a living with this and the customer pays for everything. If this is a hobby, then not first of all. Calculate the costs like this: I quit smoking (and drinking) and all the savings are on the tool. In this case, it is really a hobby and a useful pastime.

Now the steepness has gone. Machine.

Option 2. High-speed car. 10,000 revolutions. We sharpen with a diamond file. It may well be. There are eagles who did something in this way. But as for me - this is not very correct. If sharpen then sharpen.

Considering the above - if you do not sharpen the axes how to fry pies - then for a non-professional watchmaker-turner, it would be more expedient to take a small-sized precision universal machine. I would say that 20% of the work is axle turning (or even less), 80% is the turning of screws and body parts, various secondary milling work.

Examples I would name the following:

Collet chuck, native collets. On top is a milling corner. A part of the caliper is attached to it and we get a "milling cutter".

- new - Proxxon PD-230 / E, including a milling attachment or FF-230 router. Search on There they even have a price list in the power tool section - that is, they really do it.

Regarding the old MD-65. Axes 0.1 sharpens. Doesn't hit. Any additional clarifications are superfluous.

Now for the next topic. Okay. We got a machine. Well kva. We have a type of computer in the form of a processor, monitor and keyboard. But all this locomotive also needs software. Windows-2000 or Windows-XP and for tough peppers Linux will do. So, the fun begins. Software often costs more than hardware. It's the same story with machine tools. We need fixtures and additional tools. I think that an approximate set of additional accessories for the machine will cost no less than the machine costs. We are now talking about turning + milling. I ended up with MD-65 with a milling angle plate - a milling cutter is clamped in the machine chuck, and the support is turned over like a milling table, only a vertical one + milling vise. The arrows on it are milled. Cut the slots in the screws too.

- incisors - at least a hundred. Fits well in old wooden school boxes.

For precise sharpened incisors, old boxes from under grandmother's silver spoons go very well - incisors are more expensive than spoons, they will not break.

- collets and collet chuck. I have 2 sets - one is native to MD-65 (3-13 mm), the second set is Lorsch (hour, 0-6 mm).

This is in the machine, Lorsch in the adapter.

- indicators. 0.01 and 0.001. It is clear that various attachments are needed for them. Often you have to do the fasteners yourself.

- center detectors - 0.01. Without it, there is simply nothing to do on the machine.

- binocular microscope. Without words. We have already talked about this above.

- 4-jaw chuck. With split jaw release.

- sharpener - sharpen the cutters roughly

- diamond wheels - sharpen cutters precisely

- rotary vise (horizontal rotary system) - drill holes in precisely specified places. Screw holes in the rim of the transparent case back. It is hand drilled. It can be seen that the screws are jumping.

- dividing head. Or with discs or vernier. Cutting gears. Or at least make a square.

- I'm not talking about cutters. And end and for gears.The thickness of the disc cutters - from 0.1-0.15 - is the thickness of the "Neva" blade.

- the measuring tool is for rough work

- and for precise ones - only optics

- then you need to look at what is needed already for the work being performed. You will have to do a lot yourself. To invent a lot. Very often, for the manufacture of one part, it takes more time to make a clamp in order to clamp this part into the machine.

Foil trimming - making a "disk" arrow. Materials at hand.

Now the conversation is where and how to organize all this. It should be dry. Dust free. Not on the head of the family - the family should know that it is yours - and no matter what you do there - they have no entrance there. And there is nothing to howl about the noise from the workshop. Their comments are inappropriate (oh, it's dirty, oh, it stinks with gasoline).

One type I saw a German machine - the type of our school. More precisely, only pre-war. He mounted it under the kitchen table. In the center of the table is a shelf with a machine on it. The top board of the table rises - like in old school desks. He lowered the board, put the tablecloth in place and crumble the onion with the sausage. All the same, there will be no big turning works at home - everything is some kind of small piece.

If we are talking about a large workshop or a more serious occupation in the restoration business for the soul, then in addition to the small machine, you need to look towards a larger machine - a school one (I don’t want to name the type - there are many different ones), a horizontal milling NGF-110 and a muffle furnace - this is for more rough work and the manufacture of devices. It is clear that all this also needs a trailer of devices and tools. Photo of the basement in the country.

If you can order or buy somewhere, look towards the rollers. They can be quite expensive. Sometimes they help out a lot. Especially in the manufacture of new parts, arrows and shims for lathe cutters.

As a conclusion, let's say this - this process is endless. In one sensible book on choosing a watch lathe, there was a good idea, completely applicable in our case - we are all mortal. All these tools are of interest only to us. Personally. There is no need to expect that someone after us will continue with fire in their eyes what we have begun. The whole instrument must be bought on the basis that after us, our grateful descendants die of all this rubbish and faster. They can also be thrown into the trash. They need a place for a geranium! We need to make sure that they can get more for it, slowly and confidently to all these numerous relatives and posterity, it is necessary to explain that all this is expensive and on this in distant times it will be possible to earn something. And accordingly, if you already buy, then buy a liquid instrument, which will have a price even in 50 years. This is on the one hand. On the other hand, we are all working now. We earn something. This is exactly the right time to prepare for yourself a range of activities for a time when our earnings will decrease, that is, retirement. Good luck.