In detail: do-it-yourself repair of an automaton belt on trousers from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
If you want to do well - do it yourself
Life hack for quick repair of the belt buckle.
Broken buckle? Try the screed! An inexpensive and quick belt repair will be provided by the most common tie. This option is especially good if you do not plan to wear a belt for release (if you suddenly feel embarrassed). You can choose the color of the tie that best suits your belt. Simply thread the tie through the loop where the buckle was located and tighten to the length you want.
Hello everyone and good mood!
Here is an overview of the anti-slip remedy - an automatic buckle belt. An almost irreplaceable thing, unless, of course, you wear suspenders 🙂
I think in the wardrobe of any man there is more than one or even three belts for pants - for all occasions. Someone prefers only belts cut from a single piece of leather and does not recognize anything else. I agree that it is brutal, cool and very expensive. I do not consider myself to be such a person and I prefer "office" style belts as a survey product. They use simpler leather + all sorts of additional tricks of manufacturers, designed to improve the appearance. The lifespan of such belts, with regular use, is approximately 2.5-3 years. And gradually they migrate from new trousers to those that are not yet ashamed to be worn in the country :). Unfortunately, the price tag in our retail for such belts has become not at all humane - about 2500-3000 rubles. (about $ 50), so I decided to try a belt from China. In addition, I was interested in the design of the buckle.
So, such a belt came to me.
Video (click to play). |
The belt itself and the buckle are packed:
120cm:
Weight:
Moreover, half of the weight falls on the buckle:
A bit heavy, sir (until you remember the army belt 🙂
The product is provided for writing a review by the store. The review is published in accordance with clause 18 of the Site Rules.
Very often, the wedging mechanism of the safety strap in the car begins to jam when the belt is pulled out of the reel, even if it is pulled very smoothly, and in the cold season it is practically impossible to fasten it on. In this article, I will show you how to make a DIY seat belt repair within ten minutes, right in the car.
To perform this type of robot you need.
- Short cross twist
- Straight slotted twist
- Seventeen socket wrench
- The clip can also be used with a clothespin
- Film for protecting car seats from dirt
- Knitting steel knitting needle or stiff wire
- Syringe with a straw
- Gasoline for refueling lighters
- To remove the B-pillar cover, unscrew the four self-tapping screws with a Phillips screwdriver.
- Then we take out the entire seat belt and attach it to the eyelet using a clip or a clothespin.
- Using a seventeen socket wrench, remove the bolt that secures the coil and take it from the bracket. Do not allow the spool to unwind and secure the strap to the spool with a clip. It is necessary to fix it so that it is more convenient to carry out repair work.
- Close up car seat film, and put the dismantled mechanism on it, you need to sit on another chair.
- Next, we are looking for a lid, under which the inertial mechanism is located, for this, shake the coil and under which lid it rattles and we need it.
- To remove the lid, you need to remove the four plastic caps, use a knitting needle to remove them. Using a slotted twist, remove the cover.
- We remove the opened mechanism (the box contains a cylinder, a metal ball and a rocker).For the mechanism to work properly, the rocker arm must move freely along the axis and not jam anything. To check, place the mechanism in a vertical position and tilt the upper part towards the ball, the rocker arm should return to its original position, without any wedging. If, nevertheless, there is wedging, it is necessary to flush the axis of the rocker arm until it begins to rotate freely and without jamming.
- Then we take out the inertial mechanism (taken out without an additional tool), it is metal and is located under a plastic gear. In the central part of the hole there is an eccentric with teeth (it is the reason for the belt jamming during pulling out) the space under it should be well cleaned. To do this, you need to pour a small amount of gasoline into the center and around the perimeter, preventing the belt from winding, then remove the clip.
- Next, we take the coil in our hand so that you can hold the spring and the plastic guide with your index finger, wind the strap with the other hand, and pull it a couple of times. This procedure must be repeated two to three times. Important: do not allow the belt to reel before you put the mechanism back.
That's all the repair of the seat belt with your own hands is finished, it remains only to assemble in the reverse order, and install it in place, it is recommended to carry out the same procedure on the second mechanism for prevention.
How to shorten the belt
A belt that is too long is not convenient to use and looks ugly.
Belt, correctly selected in length (waist), must be fastened on the third or middle hole. Usually belts are made longer and after purchase they must be shortened to an individual length (adjusted to fit).
The belts are shortened from the buckle sidenot from the end of the strap (tip) where the punched holes are located. Do not try punch additional holes in the belt along the length. New holes, pierced with a non-special tool, reduce the strength of the belt, do not look neat, and the long strap of the belt will not add beauty either.
There are four types of buckle attachment:
- on the clip (can be shortened easily),
- on the screw (can be shortened easily),
- sewn-in (it is better to choose such belts by size; when shortening, you will have to tinker or seek help from a workshop),
- on a rivet (it is better to choose such belts by size; when shortening, you will have to tinker or seek help from a workshop).
Consider how to shorten the belt at different types fastening buckle.
A belt with this buckle fastening is the easiest to shorten.
Fold back the locking tab on the inside of the buckle.
We take out the belt from the buckle.
We measure our waist, in the place where the belt of your trousers is usually located.
The waist in our case is 85 cm.
Belts with buckle fastening on the clip have no holes, so it is usually customary to leave a free edge of about 15-18 cm.
It turns out that the length of the belt should be:
Waist + 15-18 cm.
In our case, for a waist circumference of 85 cm, the required distance is:
We measure the required length (in our case 100 cm) from the very tip of the belt.
We put a mark. You can cut it off with scissors, but it is better, of course, with a knife.
The cut is smoother.
Insert the cut edge back into the buckle and fix it.
So that the fixing teeth fit better into skin , it is necessary to slightly pull the strap away from the buckle while pressing the retainer well at the same time.
A belt with such a buckle attachment can also be shortened very easily.
To detach the buckle from the belt, you need to unscrew the screw on the back of the buckle.
We measure our waist by belt level trousers.
We measure from the third or middle hole distance equal to waist.
We put a mark. And now we subtract the buckle length from this distance. In our case, the waist is 85 cm. - 5 cm. Buckle length. It turns out that we measure out only 80 cm.
Cut off the excess part with a knife.
We do not throw in a piece of the cut off belt with a hole, but use it as sample to mark a new hole.
Of course, it's best to punch a new hole. punch.
If there is no punch, the hole can be twist scissors, just twist. Otherwise, along the notches, the belt will break at this point.
A better to drill a new hole with a drill.
Using the screw, we fix the buckle in a new place. Pay attention to the location of the belt loops, the belt strap is inside her.
The seam on the harness, it is neatly unpicked with a blade or a clerical knife.
The belt is shortened in the same way as the belt with the buckle fastening on the screw.
With an awl on the belt and harness, new holes are punctured and the seam is sewn manually. In detail this technology is described here ... If this is difficult for you, you can take the belt to a master in a shoemaker.
The most unfortunate, in my opinion, the mount. I try not to buy such belts, the more it is noticed that usually quality such belts bad... Riveting equipment is usually expensive. Therefore, it is easier to find a workshop where eyelets, buttons, buttons, rivets are installed. There they will shorten your belt and put new rivets.
I don’t throw away the remaining cut pieces from the belts. This is a great material for bracelets , especially if the length is enough for the girth of the wrist. You can make another trendy accessory .
Posted by Julie 22
Very often, the wedging mechanism of the safety strap in the car begins to jam when the belt is pulled out of the reel, even if it is pulled very smoothly, and in the cold season it is practically impossible to fasten it on. In this article, I will show you how to make a DIY seat belt repair within ten minutes, right in the car.
To perform this type of robot you need.
- Short cross twist
- Straight slotted twist
- Seventeen socket wrench
- The clip can also be used with a clothespin
- Film for protecting car seats from dirt
- Knitting steel knitting needle or stiff wire
- Syringe with a straw
- Gasoline for refueling lighters
- To remove the B-pillar cover, unscrew the four self-tapping screws with a Phillips screwdriver.
- Then we take out the entire seat belt and attach it to the eyelet using a clip or a clothespin.
- Using a seventeen socket wrench, remove the bolt that secures the coil and take it from the bracket. Do not allow the spool to unwind and secure the strap to the spool with a clip. It is necessary to fix it so that it is more convenient to carry out repair work.
- Close up car seat film, and put the dismantled mechanism on it, you need to sit on another chair.
- Next, we are looking for a lid, under which the inertial mechanism is located, for this, shake the coil and under which lid it rattles and we need it.
- To remove the lid, you need to remove the four plastic caps, use a knitting needle to remove them. Using a slotted twist, remove the cover.
- We remove the opened mechanism (the box contains a cylinder, a metal ball and a rocker). For the mechanism to work properly, the rocker arm must move freely along the axis and not jam anything. To check, place the mechanism in a vertical position and tilt the upper part towards the ball, the rocker arm should return to its original position, without any wedging. If, nevertheless, there is wedging, it is necessary to flush the axis of the rocker arm until it begins to rotate freely and without jamming.
- Then we take out the inertial mechanism (taken out without an additional tool), it is metal and is located under a plastic gear. In the central part of the hole there is an eccentric with teeth (it is the reason for the belt jamming during pulling out) the space under it should be well cleaned.To do this, you need to pour a small amount of gasoline into the center and around the perimeter, preventing the belt from winding, then remove the clip.
- Next, we take the coil in our hand so that you can hold the spring and the plastic guide with your index finger, wind the strap with the other hand, and pull it a couple of times. This procedure must be repeated two to three times. Important: do not allow the belt to reel before you put the mechanism back.
That's all the repair of the seat belt with your own hands is finished, it remains only to assemble in the reverse order, and install it in place, it is recommended to carry out the same procedure on the second mechanism for prevention.
If the seat belt does not function in the car, it is necessary to urgently eliminate the cause of the breakdown, since it is dangerous to drive with faulty or problem belts, this is contrary to traffic rules.
Among the common breakdowns that occur during the operation of seat belts and the mechanisms that control their work, the following can be distinguished:
- jamming of the belt when trying to buckle, even in the case of a smooth pull;
- belts do not stretch due to frost or wear of the roller mechanism;
- belts do not retract when unfastened;
- the coil lock is broken or the main mechanism is damaged.
Of course, there are other problems, but they are less common, which means that the risk of encountering such a breakdown in your car is minimal. Many people believe that in some breakdowns it is possible to drive with faulty belts, but, according to the rules of the road, if the vehicle is operated with a faulty seat belt mechanism, an administrative fine may be imposed on the driver.
In addition, the car manufacturer is not responsible for a transport accident, even if the car is under warranty service in the event that the owner has not contacted specialists for replacement of the seat belts. Therefore, before you repair belts with your own hands, you need to understand that all changes are made, as they say, at your own peril and risk.
Most often, the owners decide on an independent repair because of the very expensive maintenance. For example, replacing a belt mechanism or completely replacing belts on a standard middle-class passenger car will cost the owner at least 15 thousand rubles. Not everyone is willing to pay that kind of money, especially when it comes to a simple breakdown, for example, the need to lubricate or replace the gear of the main mechanism.
In every modern car, seat belts work according to a fairly simple principle - a reel with a blocker based on a gear mechanism, with the help of which the reel rotates. The gear mechanism itself is closed by a small pendulum with a ball or spheroidal support with a system of levers. When the belt is pulled out smoothly, the support rotates with the spool gear, and with a sharp jerk, the flywheel is blocked. In this blocking system, most often there is a malfunction.
Thus, to repair the coil and other mechanisms, it is necessary to remove it, for which almost all cars will need to remove the trim, and on some models the seats on the side with which the belt is not working properly. For removal and self-repair, you will need tools, which should include:
- a set of flat and Phillips screwdrivers;
- a set of spanners of various diameters;
- lubricant, wire, wipes and material to protect the seats and upholstery.
Depending on the complexity of the repair (sometimes a complete replacement of the coil is required), other additional tools may be required for work. Do-it-yourself repairs at a VAZ are much easier, especially on older versions, since these cars do not have side airbags, the trim is easily removed and installed, and there is no need to remove the seats.
Regardless of the car model, in order to get to the mechanisms that are responsible for the correct operation of the seat belts, it is necessary to remove the plastic lining of the side panel. On almost all models, it is held either on clips at the top and bottom, or on bolts of various diameters. To access the lining, it is necessary to move the seat as far forward as possible, or remove it according to the instructions (unscrew several front and rear mounting bolts and remove the seat from the slide).
To comply with safety precautions, especially for cars with side airbags, before starting work with the belt reel, it is necessary to remove the negative terminal from the battery and, if possible, the contacts to the airbags (you can see it by the color of the wires in the car's wiring diagram). This must be done so that the igniter does not fire, which could result in injury. The coil is usually closed with a plastic case with the inscription “Do not open”, but in order to eliminate the cause of the breakdown, it must still be opened. This plastic casing is fastened with several bolts to the rack.
If the seat belt does not retract well, then the spring of the return mechanism may simply fly off or the spring is damaged. If it's a spring, you can replace it. At the replacement stage, you should be careful, since it is not difficult to remove the spring mechanism, and it is quite problematic to install it back on the coil. There is no specific installation scheme, it all depends on the model and complexity of the mechanism.
Another common reason the belt does not retract is when the metal tensioner belt is worn out or the steel angle breakage that feeds the belt into the hole on the shaft. Because of this breakage, the shaft rotates idle, that is, it does not wind the tape around itself. If the corner does not break off much, you can bend the tape with pliers and correct its position by bending the tip a little closer than intended.
Upon further inspection, you will find that the plastic shaft is connected to the metal stem that extends from the coil. In one part of the shaft there is a hole for mounting on the stem, on the other side there is a small hole that looks like an eyelet on a regular needle. To turn the shaft and assemble the entire mechanism into place, a piece of metal wire or a thin knitting needle must be threaded into this very eyelet. The shaft turns counterclockwise until it stops, support the mechanism with a screwdriver and wrench.
Now you can wind the belt around the shaft and remove the wire, this way the two halves of the mechanism will connect and the cover will snap into place.
There are other causes of failure when the belt does not retract or extend, some of which can be resolved without replacing the spring or major parts. For example, on many VAZ models, especially the tenth family, due to insufficient insulation, the mechanism begins to jam in frosty weather. Most often, this is not caused by breakage, but by thickening of the grease, which is not resistant to subzero temperatures. When disassembling the coil, it is necessary to additionally lubricate the mechanism with frost-resistant grease such as Litola or silicone.
Sometimes, for better stretching and retraction of the belt, it is enough to reduce the bend angle of the metal “tab”, which is acted upon by the ball mechanism. If the reel is standing vertically, then the retainer should not cling to the gear teeth, but should only be triggered when the tape reel is tilted. In case of more serious malfunctions, it is recommended to replace the coil with a new one from the same car model.
Do you still think that car diagnostics is difficult?
If you are reading these lines, then you have an interest in doing something yourself in the car and really savebecause you already know that:
- STO lomat big money for simple computer diagnostics
- To find out the error, you need to go to the specialists
- Simple wrenches work in the services, but you can't find a good specialist
And of course you are tired of throwing money away, and there is no question of driving around the service station all the time, then you need a simple ELM327 AUTOSSCANER that connects to any car and through a regular smartphone you will always find a problem, pay off CHECK and save a lot.
We have tested this scanner ourselves on different machines. and it showed excellent results, now we recommend it to EVERYONE! So that you do not fall for the Chinese counterfeit, we publish here a link to the official website of the AutoScanner.
I happened to encounter a broken GT2 belt a couple of months ago.
An extremely unpleasant situation when you are left with a non-working printer
A close examination of the printer's design revealed a serious flaw in the belt retention system:
Which led to the need to install a new belt. considerable length.
But a new belt, even in Moscow time, is nowhere to be found, either a beggar for shopping or prices taken from the cosmic ceiling
My favorite 3dtool bent as much as 1,300 rubles per 1 meter, as a result, I was sent (mentally) on an erotic journey on foot and I decided to order a strap from narrow-eyed brothers 10 meters for a symbolic 500 rubles along with delivery))))
came quickly, in 3 weeks, and while I was thinking and wondering how to fix it, I wanted to sharpen a new fastener, but then a very simple and unpretentious idea came to my mind:
At first I tried to weld a drop of metal to the pin - it's useless, all the buckles are made of cheap alloys, except for greaves, nothing is welded, not even jewelry welding.
Then I tried to use a self-tapping screw - it works, but it looks terrible, and our goal is to keep the buckle attractive, right?
And then I tried construction rivets - the best option.
2) Nippers or a chisel for metal, nippers are better;
4) Self-tapping screws (take several different widths);
5) Rivet gun (manual, step by step);
6) Rivets (take several different lengths);
7) File (medium or small).
All this can be found with friends who work with metal. For those who make iron doors, fences, advertising signs (pillars, steles), etc.
A) We eliminate the spire at the buckle (with pliers or a chisel);
B) Using a screwdriver and self-tapping screws, we create a hole in the buckle, where the mace used to be (then, of course, we remove the self-tapping screw);
B) Insert the rivet with the thick side inward;
D) Take a few steps with a rivet gun. A very important point, if you walk the pistol to the end, then our "mace" will wrinkle and get the same thickness (namely, very thick) and will not be able to perform its functions. If you take too few steps, then the rivet will not hold, or the “mace” will not work and will be all the same thickness (just thick), and this option does not suit us either. You need to stop somewhere in the middle. When the rivet is already holding and a thickening has formed at the end of our club. This is all determined independently and by eye. If something went wrong, we spoil the thick side of the rivet with pliers or a chisel, it falls out easily and you can experiment with the next one;
E) The rivet is installed, but since the pistol has not moved to the end, a spire sticks out from the outside (which usually “bites off”), we remove it with a chisel or nippers;
E) Smooth out all the sharpness and unevenness with a file.
As a result, you will have a mace with a thick rod and a very thick head (knob), and a neat metal circle with a dot will be installed outside. Although the mace is thick, it should fit your belt. If not, you can make your own cuts in the holes in the belt. IMPORTANT, the cuts must be made from the hole towards the buckle. That is, if the belt is a segment (! Not a circle!) Where the end with the buckle is “X” and the end without the buckle is “Y”, then the notch should look out of the hole towards “X”.
Trouser belts repair
Trouser belts are called rather conventionally.In fact, belts of various styles can be used not only for trousers, but also for other garments, emphasizing the dignity of the figure and setting a business tone. That is why almost all fans of these accessories pay so much attention to their serviceability: the belt should ideally perform a supporting function, without being too long, too tight or, on the contrary, too loose. As for the appearance, any belt, being an attribute of the image image, is intended to be impeccable in its elegance.
Our masters will help you if the need arose:
• shorten the belt;
• make a hole in the belt (additional) with subsequent finishing along the contour;
• paint the belt;
• replace the buckle on the belt;
• Perform any other trouser belt repair procedures, including repairing leather belts, vinyl belts, and fabric belts.
Using our services, you will not be disappointed. Your belt will be as good as new and will last for many years.
In our workshops, you can shorten your long trouser belt and punch additional holes in it. Workshops are located in the Moscow, Petrogradsky, Primorsky and Nevsky districts of St. Petersburg, click the "Contacts" link at the top of the page.
What does a jammed belt mean? Over time, the seat belt mechanism begins to wedge, that is, it does not allow the belt to be pulled out of the reel, even when you pull it very slowly, and quickly buckling up in winter becomes a real problem.
The problem is simple and can be solved in ten minutes without leaving the car.
From the passenger side I have already carried out such an operation, now I present a photo report on the repair of the driver's belt.
Tools and materials
- Phillips screwdriver, short
- slotted screwdriver
- wrench on “17” box
- stationery clothespin
- a plastic bag or a piece of plastic - to protect the seat from contamination
- knitting steel knitting needle or a piece of stiff wire
- syringe with a tube *
- gasoline "Galosha" or gasoline for lighters * (if in a canister with a small spout, then a syringe is not needed)
With a short Phillips screwdriver, unscrew the 4 self-tapping screws on the bottom cover of the middle drain and remove the cover by pulling it up.
Next, we pull out the entire belt and stop it with a clothespin on the eyelet.
With a 17 key, unscrew the belt reel mounting bolt and remove it from the bracket.
Keeping the belt from winding, we fix the belt on the coil itself with the same clothespin.
Fixation of the belt is necessary for the convenience of further operations.
Next, we cover the seat, for example, with a plastic bag, so as not to get it dirty,
we put a coil on it, and Sami transfer to the next one.
Now we need a cover, under which an inertial mechanism. Usually it is thicker (in the photo it is on the left), but you can
and shake the coil - under which the lid will rattle - that is what you need.
To remove the lid, you need to remove 4 plastic caps from it - Squeeze them out with a knitting needle,
holding them with your hand against flying out.
Pry off the cover with a slotted screwdriver and remove it ..
Before us opens the first mechanism of the belt (It is removed freely, with your fingers) - This is a box with a cylinder, with a ball inside, and a "rocker".
We check the rocker - is it free on the axis of rotation? Having placed the "rocker" vertically, we tilt its upper part towards the ball.
It should take a vertical position quickly and without the slightest jam!
If there is jamming, then we wash the axis of rotation of the "rocker arm" until it begins to rotate on the axis absolutely freely!
Further, the second mechanism - inertial - It is steel and is located under the plastic gear. It can be removed freely with your fingers.
In the center of the toothed hole there is an eccentric with teeth (which wedges the belt when pulled out sharply), the space under which needs to be cleaned. To do this, pour a little gasoline around the perimeter of the hole and a little to the center, keeping the belt from unwinding, remove the clothespin for a while.
We take the coil in one hand so that with the index finger we hold the plastic guide with the spring, and with the other we tighten and wind the belt several times and pull sharply several times so that the mechanism would engage. After that, we again fix the belt on the reel and repeat this operation 1-2 more times.
Video (click to play). |
We assemble the coil and put it in place in the reverse order.