In detail: do-it-yourself repair of the automatic belt on trousers from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
If you want to do well - do it yourself
Lifehack on the operational repair of the belt buckle.
Broken buckle? Try a tie! An inexpensive and quick repair of the belt will be provided by the most common screed. The option is especially good if you do not plan to wear a belt for release (if you suddenly feel embarrassed). You can choose the color of the strap that best suits your belt. Just thread the tie through the loop that the buckle was in and tighten to the length you need.
Hello everyone and good mood!
I present a review of the remedy for falling pants - a belt with an automatic buckle. The thing is almost irreplaceable, unless, of course, you wear suspenders 🙂
I think in the wardrobe of any man there is not one or even three belts, for pants - for all occasions. Someone prefers only belts cut from a single piece of leather and does not recognize anything else. I agree that it is brutal, cool and very expensive. I don’t consider myself to be such a person and I prefer “office” style belts as a review item. They use simpler leather + all sorts of additional tricks of manufacturers designed to improve the appearance. The life of such belts, with regular use, is approximately 2.5-3 years. And gradually they migrate from new trousers to those that you are not ashamed to wear in the country yet :). Unfortunately, the price tag in our retail for such belts has become completely inhumane - about 2500-3000 rubles. (about $50), so I decided to try a belt from China. In addition, I was interested in the design of the buckle.
So, this belt came to me.
Video (click to play). |
Packed and the belt and buckle:
120cm:
Weight:
And half of the weight falls on the buckle:
Too heavy (until you remember the army belt 🙂
The product was provided for writing a review by the store. The review is published in accordance with clause 18 of the Site Rules.
Very often, the wedge mechanism of the seat belt in the car starts to stick while pulling the belt out of the coil, even if you pull it very smoothly, and in the cold season it is almost impossible to fasten it. In this article, I will tell you how to do a do-it-yourself seat belt repair in ten minutes right in the car.
To perform this type of robot you will need.
- Short cross twist
- Screwdriver with straight slot
- socket wrench seventeen
- The clip can also be used with a stationery clothespin
- Protective film for car seats
- Knitting steel needle or hard wire
- Syringe with tubing
- Gasoline for refueling lighters
- To remove the trim of the middle rack, you need to unscrew the four screws with a Phillips screwdriver.
- Then we pull out the entire seat belt and fasten it to the eyelet using a clip or a clerical clothespin.
- With a socket wrench for seventeen, remove the bolt with which the coil is screwed and take it from the bracket. Prevent the spool from winding up and secure the strap to the spool with a clip. It is necessary to fix it so that it is more convenient to carry out repair work.
- close car seat film, and put the dismantled mechanism on it, you need to sit on another chair.
- Next, we are looking for a lid, under which the inertial mechanism is located, for this, shake the coil and under which lid the one we need rattles.
- To remove the cover, you need to remove the four plastic caps, using a knitting needle, remove them. Using a slotted screw, remove the cover.
- We remove the opened mechanism (in the box there is a cylinder, a metal ball and a rocker). For the mechanism to work properly, the rocker must move freely along the axis and not jam anything. To check, place the mechanism in a vertical position and tilt the upper part towards the ball, the rocker should return to its original position, without any wedging. If, nevertheless, there is wedging, it is necessary to flush the axis of the rocker until it begins to rotate freely and without jamming.
- Then we take out the inertial mechanism (get it without an additional tool), it is metal and is located under the plastic gear. In the central part of the hole there is an eccentric with teeth (it is the cause of the belt jamming during pulling out), the space under it should be well cleaned. To do this, pour a small amount of gasoline into the center and around the perimeter, preventing the belt from winding, then remove the clip.
- Next, we take the coil in our hand so that you can hold the spring and the plastic guide with your index finger, wind the strap with your other hand, and pull it a couple of times. This procedure must be repeated two or three times. Important: do not allow the belt to wind up before you assemble the mechanism back.
That's all the do-it-yourself seat belt repair is finished, it remains only to assemble in the reverse order and install it in place, it is recommended to carry out the same procedure on the second mechanism for prevention.
How to shorten the belt
Too long a belt is not convenient to use and looks ugly.
Belt, correctly selected in length (waist circumference), must be fastened for the third or middle hole. Usually belts are made longer and after purchase they must be shortened to an individual length (adjust to fit).
Belts are getting shorter from the side of the buckle, and not from the end of the belt (tip) where the punched holes are located. Don't you dare punch additional holes in the belt, along the length. New holes, pierced with a non-special tool, reduce the strength of the belt, do not look neat, and the long strap of the belt will not add beauty either.
There are four types of buckle attachment:
- on the clip (shortened easily),
- on the screw (shortened easily),
- sewn (it is better to choose such belts according to size, when shortening you will have to tinker or ask for help in the workshop),
- on a rivet (it is better to choose such belts according to size, when shortening you will have to tinker or ask for help from a workshop).
Consider, how to shorten the belt at different types buckle attachments.
A belt with this buckle fastening is the easiest to shorten.
We bend the fixing tongue on the inside of the buckle.
Pull the belt out of the buckle.
We measure our waist, in the place where the belt of your trousers is usually located.
The waist in our case is 85 cm.
Belts with a buckle on the clip do not have holes, so it is usually customary to leave a free edge of about 15-18 cm.
It turns out that the length of the belt should be:
Waist + 15-18 cm.
In our case, for a waist size of 85 cm, the required distance:
We measure the required length (in our case, 100 cm) from the very tip of the belt.
We put a label. You can cut with scissors, but it is better of course with a knife.
The cut is more even.
We insert the cut edge back into the buckle and fix it.
In order for the locking teeth to better fit into skin , it is necessary to slightly pull the belt away from the buckle, while pressing the latch firmly.
A belt with such a buckle fastening is also shortened very simply.
To detach the buckle from the belt, unscrew the screw on the back of the buckle.
Measuring your waist by waist level trousers.
We measure from the third or middle hole distance equal to waist.
We put a label. And now subtract the length of the buckle from this distance.In our case, the waist is 85 cm. - 5 cm. The length of the buckle. It turns out that we measure only 80 cm.
Cut off the excess with a knife.
We do not throw in a piece of a cut off belt with a hole, but use it as sample to mark a new hole.
Of course, it is best to punch a new hole punch.
If there is no punch, the hole can crank scissors, precisely to check. Otherwise, the belt will tear along the incisions in this place.
A better drill new drill hole.
Using the screw, we fix the buckle in a new place. Pay attention to the location of the belt loop, the belt tape is inside her.
The seam on the harness, it is carefully torn open with a blade or a clerical knife.
The belt is shortened, as well as a belt with a buckle fastening on a screw.
With an awl on the belt and harness, new holes are pricked and we sew the seam by hand. in detail this technology is described here . If this is difficult for you, you can take the belt to the master in the shoe shop.
The most unfortunate, in my opinion, mount. I try not to buy such belts, all the more it is noticed that usually quality such belts bad. Rivet setting equipment is usually expensive. Therefore, it is easier to find a workshop where eyelets, buttons, buttons, rivets are installed. There they will shorten the belt and put new rivets.
I do not throw away the remaining cut pieces from the belts. This is an excellent material for bracelets , especially if the length is enough for the girth of the wrist. Can make another trendy accessory .
Posted by: Julie 22
Very often, the wedge mechanism of the seat belt in the car starts to stick while pulling the belt out of the coil, even if you pull it very smoothly, and in the cold season it is almost impossible to fasten it. In this article, I will tell you how to do a do-it-yourself seat belt repair in ten minutes right in the car.
To perform this type of robot you will need.
- Short cross twist
- Screwdriver with straight slot
- socket wrench seventeen
- The clip can also be used with a stationery clothespin
- Protective film for car seats
- Knitting steel needle or hard wire
- Syringe with tubing
- Gasoline for refueling lighters
- To remove the trim of the middle rack, you need to unscrew the four screws with a Phillips screwdriver.
- Then we pull out the entire seat belt and fasten it to the eyelet using a clip or a clerical clothespin.
- With a socket wrench for seventeen, remove the bolt with which the coil is screwed and take it from the bracket. Prevent the spool from winding up and secure the strap to the spool with a clip. It is necessary to fix it so that it is more convenient to carry out repair work.
- close car seat film, and put the dismantled mechanism on it, you need to sit on another chair.
- Next, we are looking for a lid, under which the inertial mechanism is located, for this, shake the coil and under which lid the one we need rattles.
- To remove the cover, you need to remove the four plastic caps, using a knitting needle, remove them. Using a slotted screw, remove the cover.
- We remove the opened mechanism (in the box there is a cylinder, a metal ball and a rocker). For the mechanism to work properly, the rocker must move freely along the axis and not jam anything. To check, place the mechanism in a vertical position and tilt the upper part towards the ball, the rocker should return to its original position, without any wedging. If, nevertheless, there is wedging, it is necessary to flush the axis of the rocker until it begins to rotate freely and without jamming.
- Then we take out the inertial mechanism (get it without an additional tool), it is metal and is located under the plastic gear.In the central part of the hole there is an eccentric with teeth (it is the cause of the belt jamming during pulling out), the space under it should be well cleaned. To do this, pour a small amount of gasoline into the center and around the perimeter, preventing the belt from winding, then remove the clip.
- Next, we take the coil in our hand so that you can hold the spring and the plastic guide with your index finger, wind the strap with your other hand, and pull it a couple of times. This procedure must be repeated two or three times. Important: do not allow the belt to wind up before you assemble the mechanism back.
That's all the do-it-yourself seat belt repair is finished, it remains only to assemble in the reverse order and install it in place, it is recommended to carry out the same procedure on the second mechanism for prevention.
If the seat belt does not function in the car, it is urgent to eliminate the cause of the breakdown, since it is dangerous to drive with faulty or problematic belts, this is contrary to the rules of the road.
Among the common breakdowns that occur during the operation of seat belts and the mechanisms that control their operation, the following can be distinguished:
- jamming of the belt when trying to buckle up, even in the case of a smooth pull;
- belts do not stretch due to frost or wear of the roller mechanism;
- belts do not retract when unfastened;
- the coil lock is broken or the main mechanism is damaged.
Of course, there are other problems, but they are less common, which means that the risk of encountering such a breakdown in your car is minimal. Many believe that with some breakdowns it is possible to drive with faulty seat belts, but according to the rules of the road, if the vehicle is operated with a faulty seat belt mechanism, an administrative fine can be imposed on the driver.
In addition, the car manufacturer is not responsible for a traffic accident, even if the car is under warranty service, if the owner did not contact the specialists about replacing the seat belts. Therefore, before you repair belts with your own hands, you need to understand that all changes are made, as they say, at your own peril and risk.
Most often, the owners decide on independent repairs because of the very expensive maintenance. For example, replacing a belt mechanism or a complete replacement of belts on a standard middle-class passenger car will cost the owner at least 15 thousand rubles. Not everyone is willing to pay that kind of money, especially when it comes to a simple breakdown, for example, the need to lubricate or replace the gear of the main mechanism.
In every modern car, seat belts work on a fairly simple principle - a reel with a blocker based on a gear mechanism that rotates the reel. The gear mechanism itself is closed by a small pendulum with a ball or spheroid bearing with a system of levers. When the belt is pulled out smoothly, the support rotates with the reel gear, and with a sharp jerk, the flywheel is blocked. In this system, blocking most often lies a malfunction.
Thus, to repair the coil and other mechanisms, it is necessary to remove it, for which almost all cars will need to remove the trim, and on some models, the seats on the side on which the belt is not working. For removal and self-repair, you will need tools, which should include:
- a set of flat and Phillips screwdrivers;
- a set of spanners of various diameters;
- lubricant, wire, wipes and material to protect the seats and upholstery.
Depending on the complexity of the repair (sometimes a complete replacement of the coil is required), other additional tools may be required to work. Do-it-yourself repairs are much easier on a VAZ, especially on older versions, since these cars do not have side airbags, the trim is easily removed and installed, and there is no need to remove the seats.
Regardless of the model of the car, in order to get to the mechanisms that are responsible for the correct operation of the seat belts, it is necessary to remove the plastic lining of the side panel. On almost all models, it rests either on clips on the top and bottom or on bolts of various diameters. To access the lining, you must move the seat as far forward as possible, or remove it according to the instructions (unscrew a few front and rear mounting bolts and remove the seat from the slide).
To comply with safety regulations, especially for cars with side airbags, before starting work with the belt reel, it is necessary to remove the negative terminal from the battery and, if possible, the contacts to the airbags (you can see it by the color of the wires in the car's wiring diagram). This is to prevent the squib from firing, which could result in injury. The coil, as a rule, is closed with a plastic case with the inscription “Do not open”, but in order to eliminate the cause of the breakdown, it still needs to be opened. This plastic casing is attached with several bolts to the rack.
If the seat belt does not retract well, then the return mechanism spring may simply have fallen off or is damaged. If it's the spring, it can be replaced. At the replacement stage, you should be careful, since it is not difficult to remove the spring mechanism, and it is quite problematic to install it back on the coil. There is no specific installation scheme, it all depends on the model and complexity of the mechanism.
Another common reason for the belt not retracting is the wear of the metal belt of the tensioner or the breakage of the steel angle that tucks the belt into the hole on the shaft. Because of this break, the shaft spins idle, that is, it does not wind the tape around itself. If the corner does not break off much, you can bend the tape with pliers and correct its position by bending the tip a little closer than intended.
Upon further inspection, it can be found that the plastic shaft is connected to the metal rod that comes from the coil. In one part of the shaft there is a hole for mounting on the rod, on the other hand there is a small hole that looks like an eye on an ordinary needle. To spin the shaft and assemble the entire mechanism into place, it is necessary to thread a piece of metal wire or a thin knitting needle into this very eye. The shaft is twisted counterclockwise until it stops, support the mechanism with a screwdriver and a wrench.
Now you can wrap the belt around the shaft and remove the wire, thus connecting the two halves of the mechanism, and the cover will snap into place.
There are other causes of failures when the belt does not retract or extend, some of which can be solved without replacing the spring or major parts. For example, on many VAZ models, especially the tenth family, due to insufficient insulation, the mechanism begins to jam in frosty weather. Most often, this is not caused by a breakdown, but by thickening of the lubricant, which is not resistant to sub-zero temperatures. When disassembling the coil, additionally lubricate the mechanism with frost-resistant grease of the type Litola or silicone.
Sometimes, for better stretching and retraction of the belt, it is enough to reduce the bending angle of the metal “foot”, which is affected by the ball mechanism. If the reel is upright, then the latch should not cling to the gear teeth, but should only work when the tape reel is tilted. In case of more serious malfunctions, it is recommended to replace the coil with a new one from the same car model.
Do you still think that car diagnostics is difficult?
If you are reading these lines, then you have an interest in doing something yourself in the car and really savebecause you already know that:
- Service stations break a lot of money for simple computer diagnostics
- To find out the mistake you need to go to specialists
- Simple wrenches work in the services, but you can’t find a good specialist
And of course you are tired of throwing money away, and it’s out of the question to ride around the service station all the time, then you need a simple ELM327 AUTO SCANNER that connects to any car and through a regular smartphone you will always find a problem, pay off the CHECK and save a lot.
We ourselves tested this scanner on different machines and he showed excellent results, now we recommend him to EVERYONE! So that you do not fall for a Chinese fake, we publish here a link to the official Autoscanner website.
I had a chance, a couple of months ago, to face a break in the GT2 belt.
An extremely unpleasant situation when you are left with a non-working printer
A careful study of the design of the printer revealed a serious drawback of the belt fastening system:
Which led to the need to install a new belt. considerable length.
But you can’t get a new belt even in Moscow time, it’s either a golyak in shops, or prices taken from the cosmic ceiling
My favorite 3dtool bent as much as 1300 rubles per 1 meter, as a result was sent (mentally) on an erotic journey on foot and I decided to order a strap from narrow-eyed brothers 10 meters for a symbolic 500 rubles along with delivery))))
it came quickly, in 3 weeks, and while I was thinking and wondering how to fix it, I wanted to sharpen a new fastener, but then a very simple and unpretentious idea came to my mind:
At first I tried to weld a drop of metal to the spire - it's useless, all the buckles are made of cheap alloys, except for cracklings nothing is welded, even by jewelry welding.
Then I tried to use a self-tapping screw - it works, but it looks terrible, and our goal is to keep the buckle looking attractive, right?
And then I tried building rivets - the best option.
2) Wire cutters or a chisel for metal, wire cutters are better;
4) Self-tapping screws (take a few of different widths);
5) Rivet gun (manual, step by step);
6) Rivets (take a few of different lengths);
7) File (medium or small).
All this can be found with friends who work with metal. Those who make iron doors, fences, advertising signs (pillars, steles), etc.
A) We eliminate the spire at the buckle (with wire cutters or a chisel);
B) With the help of a screwdriver and self-tapping screws, we create a hole in the buckle, where the mace used to be (then, of course, we remove the self-tapping screw);
C) Insert the rivet, thick side inward;
D) We take a few steps with a rivet gun. A very important point, if you walk the gun to the end, then our “mace” will wrinkle and turn out to be of the same thickness (namely, very thick) and will not be able to perform its functions. If you take too few steps, then the rivet will not hold, or the “mace” will not work and will be all the same thickness (just thick), and this option does not suit us either. You have to stop somewhere in the middle. When the rivet is already holding and a thickening has formed at the end of our mace. All this is determined independently and by eye. If something went wrong, we spoil the thick side of the rivet with wire cutters or a chisel, it falls out easily and you can experiment with the next one;
E) The rivet is installed, but since the gun did not go to the end, a spire sticks out from the outside (which usually “bites off”), we remove it with a chisel or wire cutters;
E) We smooth out all the sharpness and irregularities with a file.
As a result, you will get a mace with a thick stem and a very thick head (hawl), and a neat metal circle with a dot will be installed on the outside. Although the club is thick, it should fit your belt. If not, you can make cuts in the holes in the belt yourself. IMPORTANT, cuts must be made from the hole towards the buckle.That is, if the belt is a segment (! Not a circle!), Where the end with a buckle is “X”, and the end without a buckle is “Y”, then the incision should look from the hole towards “X”.
Trouser belt repair
Trouser belts are called rather conditionally. In fact, belts of various styles can be used not only for trousers, but also for other items of clothing, emphasizing the dignity of the figure and setting a business tone. That is why almost all fans of these accessories pay so much attention to their serviceability: the belt should ideally perform a supporting function, while not being too long, too tight or, on the contrary, too loose. As for the appearance, any belt, being an attribute of a fashion image, is designed to be impeccable in its elegance.
Our masters will help you if necessary:
• shorten the belt;
• make a hole in the belt (additional) with subsequent finishing along the contour;
• to carry out painting of a belt;
• replace the buckle on the belt;
• perform any other trouser belt repair procedures, including repairing leather, vinyl, and fabric belts.
Using our services, you will not be disappointed. Your belt will be like new and will last for many more years.
In our workshops, you can shorten your long trouser belt and punch additional holes in it. Workshops are located in Moscow, Petrogradsky, Primorsky and Nevsky districts of St. Petersburg, click the "Contacts" link at the top of the page.
What does wedge belt mean? Over time, the seat belt mechanism begins to wedge, that is, it does not allow you to pull the belt out of the reel, even when you pull it very slowly, and fastening quickly in winter becomes a real problem.
The problem is simple and can be solved in ten minutes without leaving the car.
On the passenger side, I have already carried out such an operation, now I present a photo report on the repair of the driver's belt.
Tools and materials
- Phillips screwdriver, short
- slotted screwdriver
– wrench on “17” box
- clothespin stationery
- a plastic bag or a piece of film - to protect the seat from dirt
- a steel knitting needle or a piece of hard wire
– syringe with tube*
- Galosh gasoline or gasoline for lighters * (if in a canister with a small spout, then a syringe is not needed)
Using a short Phillips screwdriver, unscrew the 4 self-tapping screws of the lower lining of the middle column and remove the lining by pulling it up.
Next, we pull out the entire belt and stop it with a clothespin on the eyelet.
Using a 17 key, we unscrew the bolt securing the belt coil and remove it from the bracket.
Holding the belt from winding, we fix the belt on the reel itself with the same clothespin.
Fixation of the belt is necessary for the convenience of further operations.
Next, we cover the seat, for example with a plastic bag, so as not to get it dirty,
we put a coil on it, and Sami we change to the next one.
Now we need a cover, under which the inertial mechanism. Usually it is thicker (in the photo it is on the left), but you can
and shake the coil - under which the lid will rattle - that is what is needed.
To remove the cover, you need to remove 4 plastic pistons from it - Squeeze them out with a knitting needle,
holding them with your hand from flying out.
Pry off the cover with a slotted screwdriver and remove it.
The first belt mechanism opens in front of us (It is removed freely, with fingers) - This is a box with a cylinder, with a ball inside, and a “rocker arm”.
We check the rocker arm - is it free on the axis of rotation? Having placed the “rocker” vertically, we tilt its upper part towards the ball.
It should take a vertical position quickly and without the slightest jamming!
If there are jams, then we wash the axis of rotation of the “rocker arm”, until it rotates absolutely freely on the axis!
Further, the second mechanism - inertial - It is steel and is located under the plastic gear. It is removed freely with fingers.
In the center of the notched hole is an eccentric with teeth (which jams the belt when pulled out sharply) the space under which needs to be cleaned. To do this, pour a little gasoline around the perimeter of the hole and a little in the center, holding the belt from winding for a while, remove the clothespin.
We take the coil in one hand so that we hold the plastic guide with the spring with the index finger, and with the other we tighten and wind the belt several times and pull it sharply several times so that the mechanism engages. After that, we fix the belt on the reel again and repeat this operation 1-2 more times.
Video (click to play). |
We collect the coil and put it in place in the reverse order.