Upon further inspection, you will find that the plastic shaft is connected to the metal stem that extends from the coil. In one part of the shaft there is a hole for mounting on the stem, on the other side there is a small hole that looks like an eyelet on a regular needle. To turn the shaft and assemble the entire mechanism into place, a piece of metal wire or a thin knitting needle must be threaded into this very eyelet. The shaft turns counterclockwise until it stops, support the mechanism with a screwdriver and wrench.
Now you can wind the belt around the shaft and remove the wire, this way the two halves of the mechanism will connect and the cover will snap into place.
VIDEO
There are other causes of failure when the belt does not retract or extend, some of which can be resolved without replacing the spring or major parts. For example, on many VAZ models, especially the tenth family, due to insufficient insulation, the mechanism begins to jam in frosty weather. Most often, this is not caused by breakage, but by thickening of the grease, which is not resistant to subzero temperatures. When disassembling the coil, it is necessary to additionally lubricate the mechanism with frost-resistant grease such as Litola or silicone.
Sometimes, for better stretching and retraction of the belt, it is enough to reduce the bend angle of the metal “tab”, which is acted upon by the ball mechanism. If the reel is standing vertically, then the retainer should not cling to the gear teeth, but should only be triggered when the tape reel is tilted. In case of more serious malfunctions, it is recommended to replace the coil with a new one from the same car model.
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STO lomat big money for simple computer diagnostics
To find out the error, you need to go to the specialists
Simple wrenches work in the services, but you can't find a good specialist
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We have tested this scanner ourselves on different machines. and it showed excellent results, now we recommend it to EVERYONE! So that you do not fall for the Chinese counterfeit, we publish here a link to the official website of the AutoScanner.
I happened to encounter a broken GT2 belt a couple of months ago.
A close examination of the printer's design revealed a serious flaw in the belt retention system:
Which led to the need to install a new belt. considerable length.
But a new belt, even in Moscow time, is nowhere to be found, either a beggar for shopping or prices taken from the cosmic ceiling
came quickly, in 3 weeks, and while I was thinking and wondering how to fix it, I wanted to sharpen a new fastener, but then a very simple and unpretentious idea came to my mind:
At first I tried to weld a drop of metal to the pin - it's useless, all the buckles are made of cheap alloys, except for greaves, nothing is welded, not even jewelry welding.
Then I tried to use a self-tapping screw - it works, but it looks terrible, and our goal is to keep the buckle attractive, right?
And then I tried construction rivets - the best option.
2) Nippers or a chisel for metal, nippers are better;
4) Self-tapping screws (take several different widths);
5) Rivet gun (manual, step by step);
6) Rivets (take several different lengths);
7) File (medium or small).
All this can be found with friends who work with metal. For those who make iron doors, fences, advertising signs (pillars, steles), etc.
A) We eliminate the spire at the buckle (with pliers or a chisel);
B) Using a screwdriver and self-tapping screws, we create a hole in the buckle, where the mace used to be (then, of course, we remove the self-tapping screw);
B) Insert the rivet with the thick side inward;
D) Take a few steps with a rivet gun. A very important point, if you walk the pistol to the end, then our "mace" will wrinkle and get the same thickness (namely, very thick) and will not be able to perform its functions. If you take too few steps, then the rivet will not hold, or the “mace” will not work and will be all the same thickness (just thick), and this option does not suit us either. You need to stop somewhere in the middle. When the rivet is already holding and a thickening has formed at the end of our club. This is all determined independently and by eye. If something went wrong, we spoil the thick side of the rivet with pliers or a chisel, it falls out easily and you can experiment with the next one;
E) The rivet is installed, but since the pistol has not moved to the end, a spire sticks out from the outside (which usually “bites off”), we remove it with a chisel or nippers;
E) Smooth out all the sharpness and unevenness with a file.
As a result, you will have a mace with a thick rod and a very thick head (knob), and a neat metal circle with a dot will be installed outside. Although the mace is thick, it should fit your belt. If not, you can make your own cuts in the holes in the belt. IMPORTANT, the cuts must be made from the hole towards the buckle. That is, if the belt is a segment (! Not a circle!) Where the end with the buckle is “X” and the end without the buckle is “Y”, then the notch should look out of the hole towards “X”.
Trouser belts repair
Trouser belts are called rather conventionally.In fact, belts of various styles can be used not only for trousers, but also for other garments, emphasizing the dignity of the figure and setting a business tone. That is why almost all fans of these accessories pay so much attention to their serviceability: the belt should ideally perform a supporting function, without being too long, too tight or, on the contrary, too loose. As for the appearance, any belt, being an attribute of the image image, is intended to be impeccable in its elegance.
Our masters will help you if the need arose:
Using our services, you will not be disappointed. Your belt will be as good as new and will last for many years.
In our workshops, you can shorten your long trouser belt and punch additional holes in it. Workshops are located in the Moscow, Petrogradsky, Primorsky and Nevsky districts of St. Petersburg, click the "Contacts" link at the top of the page.
What does a jammed belt mean? Over time, the seat belt mechanism begins to wedge, that is, it does not allow the belt to be pulled out of the reel, even when you pull it very slowly, and quickly buckling up in winter becomes a real problem.
The problem is simple and can be solved in ten minutes without leaving the car.
From the passenger side I have already carried out such an operation, now I present a photo report on the repair of the driver's belt.
Tools and materials
- Phillips screwdriver, short
With a short Phillips screwdriver, unscrew the 4 self-tapping screws on the bottom cover of the middle drain and remove the cover by pulling it up.
Next, we pull out the entire belt and stop it with a clothespin on the eyelet.
With a 17 key, unscrew the belt reel mounting bolt and remove it from the bracket.
Now we need a cover, under which an inertial mechanism. Usually it is thicker (in the photo it is on the left), but you can
To remove the lid, you need to remove 4 plastic caps from it - Squeeze them out with a knitting needle,
Before us opens the first mechanism of the belt (It is removed freely, with your fingers) - This is a box with a cylinder, with a ball inside, and a "rocker".
We check the rocker - is it free on the axis of rotation? Having placed the "rocker" vertically, we tilt its upper part towards the ball.
Further, the second mechanism - inertial - It is steel and is located under the plastic gear. It can be removed freely with your fingers.
In the center of the toothed hole there is an eccentric with teeth (which wedges the belt when pulled out sharply), the space under which needs to be cleaned. To do this, pour a little gasoline around the perimeter of the hole and a little to the center, keeping the belt from unwinding, remove the clothespin for a while.
Video (click to play).
We assemble the coil and put it in place in the reverse order.
