Do-it-yourself Renault Duster repair knocking when starting off

In detail: do-it-yourself Renault Duster repair knocking when starting from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Knocking when pulling away can be caused by several problems. First of all, the most terrible and sinister things come to the mind of a motorist. But, as practice shows, everything may not be as bad as it seems at first glance.

Depending on the nature of the knock, there you need to look for the problem. But, consider the main places where a malfunction may occur:

Hose "stuck" support bearing

In order to make everything clear, it is necessary to dwell on each point separately.

Given the condition of the roads in some cities, require a thorough diagnosis of the running gear on TO-1

First of all, you should pay attention, the sound appears when the wheels are first turned or the power unit is started. If in the first case, then the problem is definitely in the chassis and it is necessary to make a diagnosis.

The reasons for the occurrence of characteristic sounds can be a breakdown of the joints of the CV joint, failure of the steering rod or wear of the steering rack, on the way the wear of the ball and the shock absorber strut knocks. To determine the malfunction, it is recommended to call in a pit or a lift and conduct a full diagnosis. As a last resort, tug everything and determine where the sound comes from.

When a problem is found, it is necessary to fix it as soon as possible, because if a breakdown occurs on the way, it will be almost impossible to repair it on your own. Then just a tow truck. Chassis and suspension diagnostics must be done at every maintenance, and savings, as a rule, will not lead to anything good.

There are repeated cases when the bolts on the exhaust pipe burn out or simply break off (there can be many reasons for this phenomenon), and it rubs against the gearbox or other elements.

Video (click to play).

This can cause a characteristic knock when starting. Of course, this is not the only place where problems with fastening can occur, so it’s worth stopping by the pit and diagnosing it.

Check the tightening of the engine protection to the spars!

In the gearbox, there may also be a problem that causes a characteristic knock. In fact, there are two reasons for the failure:

All these reasons will entail disassembling the assembly to fix the problem.

Under the hood of a diesel Duster 109 horsepower

Engine failure is a terrible word for any motorist.

First, you should look for reasons in the alternator belt and pump that could cause a knock. First of all, these are bearing parts. They could crumble, which actually caused a knock.

Learn more about bearing diagnostics:

The second, more terrible option is a knock inside the power unit. The following malfunctions could be the reasons for this phenomenon:

Deformation of one or more valves.
Carbon deposits in the combustion chambers.
Shaft production.

Of course, no one talks about the crankshaft, because if it knocks, the motorist will immediately understand this.

Incorrect timing belt tension can cause a metallic knock in the engine area. To fix the problem, it is necessary to disassemble the timing mechanism and check the belt tension and the condition of the roller.

If the driver forgot to turn off the air conditioner and the car stood for a long time, then a characteristic short-term knock will appear when starting. This indicates a short-term operation of the switching valve. This is due to the fact that the condenser is not yet ready for operation, and the compressor began to drive freon through the system. It is quite simple to treat - turn off the air conditioner and turn it on when the engine warms up.

There are quite a few reasons why a knock may appear when starting off in the Renault Duster.If such a situation arises, it is necessary to immediately carry out diagnostics so as not to do even more trouble that will hit the owner's pocket.

The roads in our country do not differ in quality, they are not always smooth and smooth. Very often on the asphalt there are various bumps and potholes. All this would certainly affect the comfort of movement, if a special depreciation system was not invented - the suspension of the car.

The Renault Duster suspension is necessary in order to dampen the vibrations that occur when driving on rough roads. In addition, the suspension connects the body and wheels. It is with its help that the wheels can move freely independently of the body, helping to change the movement of the car.

elastic elements. These mono include metal springs, springs and torsion bars, as well as non-metallic ones, which include rubber parts that take on the load from road irregularities.
Extinguishing devices. These are shock absorbers. They can be either hydraulic or pneumatic.
Guide elements - a set of longitudinal and transverse levers that limit the longitudinal or transverse movement of the suspension.
Supports - steering knuckles or other structures
Anti-roll bars
Mounts

Front suspension Renault Duster independent type, MacPherson format. The main suspension components are gas-filled shock absorbers. They are better than oil ones due to the softer stroke and increased resource. Two triangular levers are brought to the subframe, which are combined with the steering knuckle with the help of a ball joint. The rack is located in the inner part of the mudguard, reinforced with a spring.

The rear suspension of the Renault Duster 4x4 differs from the front-wheel drive model, which is made in the form of a semi-independent frame. The diagram shows the components of the system:

Suspension Renault Duster 4x4 is completely independent, both front and rear. This improves the vehicle's handling at high speeds, but reduces off-road capability.

Rear wheel bearing

Renault Duster with front-wheel drive is distinguished by the fact that the rear wheel bearing is pressed into the brake drum. This not only allowed us to slightly simplify the design, but also made the replacement more convenient. In order to change the part, it is enough to remove the brake drum.

Roll Bar

The resource of racks directly depends on the style of use of the car. If problems arise with this part, a knock in the front suspension may occur to the Renault Duster. This occurs when the anthers are mechanically damaged. After that, the hinges wear out quickly, under the influence of dirt and sand. It is necessary to periodically check this element, and before installation it is recommended to additionally lubricate with lithol or other grease.

roll bar

Usually, this part is quite durable, and does not break during the entire life of the car. But the cushions that hold it in place over time can dry out, causing extraneous noise and suspension thud, necessitating replacement.

Strut

This detail not only dampens vibrations during movement, but is also responsible for stability when cornering and maneuvering.

Lever and ball joint Duster

The need to replace the lever arises when the car is damaged during an accident. The factory set of lever and ball joint is connected with rivets. You can change the entire kit, or you can purchase a separate ball joint. In this case, the rivets are drilled out and replaced with special bolts from the repair kit.

Steering knuckle, hub bearing.
The steering knuckle must be changed in case of serious damage, as well as in the case of replacing the hub bearing. A failed bearing will make a noise when rotating, and will increase with the speed of rotation.
Rear shock absorber
If the shock absorbers are damaged, then the car will sway excessively when passing bumps. It is also possible that the controllability will deteriorate.If it is necessary to replace the rear shock absorbers, then it should be done one by one. This is due to the fact that they hold the rear beam, and at the same time disconnecting from a suspended car, the beam can sag and damage the brake hoses.
Renault Duster spring (relevant for front-wheel drive cars.)
As a rule, replacement is necessary on vehicles with high mileage that were used for the transport of goods. In this case, the springs can sag significantly, which will reduce the clearance of the car. The suspension becomes stiffer, even the smallest bumps are noticeable.

In a Renault Duster car, a knock in the front suspension indicates that one of the parts is out of order and urgently needs to be replaced. It is necessary to make an independent inspection of the parts. But in some cases, you may need a viewing hole or a lift.

One of the most common causes of extraneous sounds is a damaged support column.

Over time, and under the influence of loads, it collapses, losing its shape. Inspection can be started from the engine compartment. Racks are located under the spring cups. You need to look at the gap and their condition.

If the gap is more than 10 millimeters, or differs from the opposite, then replacement is necessary, because they sagged and do not absorb shock.

Can be distinguished by a dull sound. This is the most common sign of a bad part. To check you need to rock the car. If everything is in order with them, then it will smoothly return to its original position.

If in doubt, a visual inspection can be made. Deformation of the part or the presence of smudges indicates the need for replacement.

The sound is manifested when the vehicle rolls sideways. The stand jumps in the seat and makes a characteristic sound. While driving, it gets worse when driving on rough roads. Most often, the problem occurs when the stabilizer bushings are damaged.

You can verify the malfunction of silent blocks using a mount. It is placed between the frame and is shifted in the transverse direction. This determines the presence of backlash. In order to determine the degree of wear of this component, it is necessary to completely dismantle the part.

This part is not famous for its reliability. And when operating a car off-road, there is a high risk of its premature failure.

To diagnose the rail, you need to drive the car onto a lift or inspection hole. Then, by rocking, the amount of backlash is determined.

The main component of this part is rubber bushings. You can determine the state of a part by its external state. If there are problems, then during a visual inspection, tears will be visible.

It must be remembered that the untimely replacement of one of the components increases the load on the others. Therefore, timely repairs can not only save nerves but also a significant amount of money.

Deterioration of hinges of drives of forward wheelsReplace worn joints or actuatorsWear or damage to the rubber element of the upper support of the shock absorber strut, rubber-metal hinges (silent blocks) of the suspension arms, bushings and cushions of the anti-roll barReplace worn or damaged partsThe fastenings of the anti-roll bar to the body, the steering knuckle of the front suspension to the rack, the suspension arms to the subframe, the shock absorber strut to the body have loosenedTighten threaded connectionsSevere front wheel bearing wear or loose bearing nutTighten the wheel bearing nut, replace the bearing if necessaryReplace the spring (replace both suspension springs at once - left and right)Detachment of the brake lining from the base of the shoeReplace the pads (all on the same axle at the same time)Lost elasticity or collapsed power unit supportsRecently I began to notice - when starting off (only when the car starts moving), some kind of incomprehensible one-time knock appears, both in first and in reverse gear.If you give more gas - there is no knock. Here is such a problem.
The same knock appears if you drive in first gear and give it sharp gas, I didn’t notice this tapping in 2,3,4,5 gear. What could it be.Afto - Scenic 2.0 16V 2000Last year it was similar, and a single knock then turned into a knock when depressing the clutch in 2nd and 3rd gear. I turned to the workshop - they were stunned and did everything in 5 minutes - the bolts on the engine frame were loosened (so they said). And they added that they see such a thing for the first time Image - Do-it-yourself repair Renault Duster knocking when starting off

He just chatted.

I drove to a local service, the master sat down and drove off - well, as always happens. I’m quiet this way and that - not a damn thing knocks, but it all the same knocked a little. Let's go to the lift. the first thing he looked at me was the bottom support: PPC-frame. Turned out to be torn. Said to replace.

Hello teammates. Mileage of my Duster is 80 km. When starting off at 1st speed, a barely noticeable knock is heard somewhere at the bottom right. Time 3: tun-tun-tun, then drive slowly and quietly. Has anyone had?

And the same knocks, on the right rear, of the release of 2014, someone has them?

———- Post added at 12:07 ———- Previous post posted at 11:42 ———-

I'm talking about exactly 4 knocks and which occur at the beginning of the ride.

Intensive use of a car, lack of time for maintenance and preventive measures often lead to such a common phenomenon as knocking bumps in the front suspension area. The noise gets louder when braking and pulling away. What this means, how to troubleshoot - we will figure it out later in the article.

It's all about the production of rubber parts. They are installed in the front suspension, protecting it from shock loads. First, the stabilizer pads fail. There is a ringing metallic sound in the lower front of the car when starting off and braking. At these moments, the stabilizer hits the bracket most strongly. You can determine the malfunction by looking under the bottom. Rubber ruptures at the ends of the pillows immediately become visible.

Less loud knocking when braking and pulling away in the front suspension is heard in the worn bushings of the stabilizer arms. They make noise not only when accelerating and braking a car. A lot of travel in the suspension, wheels also creates bumps. The pillows must be replaced after the stabilizer has been completely dismantled. That is why experts recommend replacing the hinges at the same time. They usually don't last long after that.

Silent blocks of levers on the verge of wear have a different sound, making sharp unpleasant clicks. They are similar to the thud of ball bearings with wear. Taking the top and bottom of the suspended wheel in your hands, shaking it vertically, you can observe the movement of the lever of the destroyed silent block near the attachment to the bottom. Careful consideration reveals the development of the block.

By lowering the lever with a crowbar or a mount, it is easy to see the development of the ball joint. This is indicated by a loose finger in breadcrumbs. The mount must be placed in the gap between the lever and the stabilizer, making up and down movements.

A correctly diagnosed knock in the suspension when starting and braking can be eliminated on your own. When carrying out repairs, replacing worn-out components, it is not necessary to stock up on special tools. All you need is a puller to remove the ball joints. The wheels are hung in front and removed after unscrewing the disc mounting bolts.

The stabilizer nut is unscrewed with a cap or socket head of 22 mm. It is necessary to brush the threaded tip with a metal brush in advance, treating it with a special penetrating liquid or oil. Similar actions are performed on the other side.

On the left and right, the nuts holding the two ball pins of the left and right supports are dismantled. The operation is carried out with a key of 19 mm in size, preferably with an end or cap. With a powerful screwdriver or chisel, bend the plates that fix the bolts holding the ball bearings on the steering knuckle.Using a 13 mm wrench, we shift from their place, without unscrewing, the bolts screwed into the fist body.

Operations are carried out with care. Having broken the bolts, it will be extremely difficult to pull them out.

It is necessary to slightly relieve the thread tension by hitting the head of the bolts with a hammer, swinging, remove the bolts from their places, using a 13 mm head, unscrew the two bolts securing the stabilizer bracket on the left and right to the cross member of the front engine mount.

Remove cup from stabilizer. Using a screwdriver, remove the rear hinge from the rubber. Pulling the edge of the stabilizer inward, release the tip from the mounting hole, and the ball bearing pin is removed from the lever. To perform this operation, the suspension arm is pressed down with a crowbar, and it must be hit hard with a hammer.You can use a special puller if available. Next, completely unscrew the bolts, dismantling the supports. It is necessary to unscrew the nut holding the bolt securing the lever to the bottom of the body. Shake the lever, pull out the bolt, then the lever. Replace worn components, assemble, install in place.Before performing assembly operations, even before disassembly, it is necessary to mark the location of the stabilizer on the vehicle. Note the number of shims. When assembling again, return all the washers to their places so that the adjustment of the angles of inclination of the axes of rotation of the front wheels is not disturbed.When installing the support pads, clean the stabilizer from dust, dirt, sand with a metal brush, lubricate with soapy water. This will make it easier to install the pillows.Pillows are the most important component in the front suspension. They transmit working forces from the wheels to the body. The stabilizer rotates in them. Cushions keep the whole car stable.Experienced craftsmen recommend wrapping the pillows with several layers of PVC insulating tape before installation and putting staples on them with an interference fit. The service life of the pillows will increase by two to three times. Knocking when starting off and braking will immediately disappear. Image - Do-it-yourself repair Renault Duster knocking when starting off

Hearing a knock in the suspension of your car when starting off and braking, first of all, you should carefully examine all the nodes in the suspension of the car. Listen to the nature of the sound of beats. All these signs of a malfunction will help when contacting a car service.

there was a single knock or click (as if biting) resounding in front (near the front left wheel) when starting off. It is especially clearly audible after intensive braking with a stop and the subsequent smooth start of movement. And moving both forward and backward. For some reason, the sound is associated with "as if biting."

I’ll make a reservation right away - I’m a fan of jumping onto curbs (where the bumper allows) and it happened that I had to “jump” even on completely turned out wheels. I do not exclude that this sound / knock that appeared may be associated with this.

Maybe someone met with this? What could it be? While any damage to the ball from such “jumps” onto the curbs comes to mind. The silents seem to be more “stable”, the steering tips / rods - it seems they should not have suffered. And there is nothing else there.

there was a single knock or click (as if biting) when starting off. It is especially clearly audible after intensive braking with a stop and the subsequent smooth start of movement. And moving both forward and backward. For some reason, the sound is associated with "as if biting."

That's how it started for you too

there we are talking about a sorcerer, and in that topic I myself unsubscribed. I solved the problem of the sorcerer a long time ago. And this is a knock from the front.

A knock in the suspension when starting off (even when not very sharp) and sometimes when stopping from somewhere in front from the bottom right. It is not heard on the potholes. Mileage only 6000km.
What is it?

On Tuesday I will go for diagnostics, but the service does not inspire confidence. Most likely they will say that this does not affect driving performance in any way, and the guarantee does not prohibit extraneous sounds, as they have already said on other occasions.

And for the fact that I have been driving for 2000 km with a whistling drive belt bearing, because the dealer said that this is not a crime and does not affect driving performance. Fall apart - then we'll change it. I posted a video here recently. About the rattling in the area of the windshield, they said that the sounds are acceptable, read the manual. It looks like service employees are driving broken-down dozens, so it seems to them that this is normal. In general, Renault service is the most lame in the world.

Well, it's so hard to say, living in the Russian Federation. I would say that the most sloppy service in the world is GAZ, like the Volga, since it simply doesn’t exist in the EU, for example, then VAZ, which is almost non-existent, all Chinese crap, which doesn’t exist at all, but Renault I would still be somewhere placed in the middle.

On the other hand, they say that any service is the relationship of one person with another.
So here it is:
1) If the Master is a bore, an asshole, but knows everything, then you need to find an approach to him and your car will be in perfect condition.
2) If the Master is polite, pleasant, knows nothing, but he is your best friend, then the car will be full of rubbish after him, but you will be satisfied.
3) If the Client is a bore, an asshole, doesn’t understand shit about the problem, but the master not only understands the problem, but also an intelligent person, the car will be in perfect condition.
4) If the Client is a bore, an asshole doesn’t understand shit, and the master understands this, but the Client has already got him, then the car will go, just go.

It's up to you to choose your own approach.

You will laugh, but today I heard the sound again as soon as I drove a kilometer from the garage. Now rather somewhere behind. Same with touching. Either he is, or he is not. Even lifted the cover of the spare wheel compartment. Everything is in place, does not hang out.
This is the most I can see. I'm not going to climb under the car on my belly despite the clearance.

I also noticed that hydraulic lifters rattle when starting on a cold one - when more, when less. I understand that this is not the topic, but it's like, is it also normal?

I decided so. I will try not to pay attention to extraneous sounds, such as the rattle of the windshield, the whistle of bearings, which Renault considers to be “normal and does not affect operation”. Apparently, Renault should be treated according to the principle “it’s driving, and it’s already good.”
But it's all very annoying. The car is 6000 km, and the impression is like from an old trough - it whistles there, here it knocks and rattles. I had no such complaints against the five-year-old Laguna from Germany. Where is the French-Japanese-Korean joint venture called Renault headed?
It used to be that French women are good while they are young. And now this is not. Under the beautiful appearance hides the miserable, unfinished essence of Renault cars. And then I was puzzled by an idiot, why Koleos in Europe is being removed from the market.

“The weak sales dynamics of Renault Koleos in European countries forced the group's leaders to reconsider the development strategy. “QM5 is very successful in the Asian market, however, in Europe, alas, it did not work. Now we want to develop a new crossover exclusively by European engineers,” Patrick Pelata says. Official dealers have already stopped selling Koleos in Holland, and the British importer intends to do the same. At the same time, the model is in demand in France and Spain.”
Our VAZ products are also selling well (and only with us). Can't find an analogy?

My next car. God forbid, it will definitely not Renault. Renault's place in the Logan or Megan and Duster segment as a maximum. Not higher at all.

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Good day, gentlemen!
Something knocks once at the beginning of the movement, or a sharp decrease or increase in speed (release the gas pedal, press sharper) in 1st and 2nd gear. The rattle from the driver's seat comes from the rear right side.
Passengers say what's ahead.
Knocking sound description: The sound is similar to turning on the clutch of an air conditioner - only louder.
Sometimes it will knock once when starting the engine, more often it knocks when the car was in gear, if it was on the handbrake, then it does not knock when the engine starts.
The knock is not particularly annoying, but I'm afraid that something will not deteriorate further.

My suspicions are:
1) engine or gearbox support
2) muffler hangers
3) both.

Question:
What could it be, and how to diagnose it?
How long can you drive with this without serious consequences? and the approximate cost of elimination, tk. I would like to plan my expenses.

It is quite obvious that any Renault chassis assembly must be in good condition. This is especially true of the suspension, because unlike the engine, which can fail and the Renault Duster simply will not go further, the failure of some suspension elements while driving can lead to a serious accident.

1. In addition to the obvious safety, the Renault Duster chassis is responsible for a comfortable ride and good handling. The most dangerous thing is that in this case there will be a high probability of loss of control, with the next collision with an obstacle that has arisen on the road. Only regular diagnostics of the Renault Duster chassis will help to avoid such a situation.

Running diagnostics Renault Duster includes checking the following elements:

springs and shock absorbers;
levers and supports (bearings on top, silent blocks on the bottom);
stabilizer bushings Renault Duster;
steering rods and rack;
wheel bearings;
SHRUS.

2. For owners of Renault Duster with experience, it is not difficult to determine a malfunction in the suspension. Experience will tell them by the sound and its source what the problem is. In addition, the most common suspension faults sound almost the same in all cars.

Renault Duster chassis diagnostics should be carried out regularly, even without any hint of a malfunction. It is better to do this on a lift, but it is also possible on an ordinary overpass or viewing hole.

3. It is important to remember how the Renault Duster behaves in good condition, then any malfunction in the future will be obvious. To understand that something is wrong with a car, you don’t need to be an experienced driver at all, and even more so, an auto mechanic.

Most often, the following symptoms of malfunctions of the Renault Duster chassis occur:

the sudden appearance of noise, knocking, rattling of the Renault Duster chassis, which can either disappear or remain even on a completely flat road;
too large rolls when cornering and noticeable rocking of the body when passing bumps or when braking;
arbitrary steering to the side, Renault Duster leads away when driving straight;
uneven tire wear.

4. Most often you can hear the knock of the Renault Duster suspension, it indicates that the rubber elements have worn out or the fasteners that hold them have loosened. There are plenty of rubber elements in the chassis, by and large, almost any Renault Duster suspension unit can knock, as a result, in order to accurately identify the cause of the knock, the car must be examined from below.

If a crunch is heard, especially when cornering or during a sharp acceleration of the Renault Duster, then it can be said with almost certainty that the reason lies in the failure of the Renault Duster SHRUS, the so-called grenade. A creak most often occurs after replacing the stabilizer bushings, often this indicates a poor-quality bushing.

5. If Renault Duster began to divert to the side, more often this happens after a hard passage of pits and potholes, then you may have to do a wheel alignment (wheel alignment Renault Duster).At best, this will eliminate the trouble, at worst, upon impact, something could bend, starting from the tie rod and ending with the steering knuckle.

If at least one of these signs occurs, it is necessary to diagnose the running Renault Duster as soon as possible. Even the rules explicitly prohibit operation with a faulty suspension, not to mention the fact that it is simply dangerous.

6. A Renault Duster suspension bushing that has not been replaced in time, which is not so expensive, can lead to breakage of the lever, for a hundred dollars. Many drivers drive without paying attention to the sounds that have appeared in the Renault Duster chassis, and drive until the sound becomes completely critical, or until something simply falls off, this approach is simply absurd.

7. Periodic visual inspection of the Renault Duster chassis will help save money, after all, if a cracked anther or a cover is found in time, and a prompt replacement is made, then the element that was protected by the anther will last longer. If, when examining Renault Duster, an already torn anther was found, then you can be sure that this suspension element will soon need to be replaced.

After checking all the anthers, you should proceed to the diagnosis of the Renault Duster front suspension elements. The front suspension is more complicated than the rear, it is subject to heavy loads, as a result, it breaks much more often. First, we inspect the Renault Duster shock absorbers, they should not have dents or oil leaks. You can also try to swing the shock absorber to the sides, the swing amplitude should be insignificant.

But the easiest way to check the health of this suspension element is to swing the Renault Duster by pressing the corner where the diagnosed shock absorber is located to the ground. If, after pressing, Renault Duster, returning to its original state, continued to rock up and down, then this indicates a malfunction of the shock absorber.

8. Next, the Renault Duster chassis springs are inspected, often their turns break off, so you need to inspect them for cracks and the integrity of all turns. But here you can also determine the functionality of the springs without looking under the car. To do this, you just need to pay attention to the clearance of the Renault Duster, if the car has become noticeably lower, then this already indicates a malfunction of the springs, they sank and can no longer properly perform their function.

Video (click to play).

9. Ball and silent blocks are checked only from the bottom of the Renault Duster. To diagnose them, it is better to use some kind of metal lever to make it easier to check everything for backlashes, they should not be in a working car. In the same way, the stabilizer supports and traction Renault Duster are checked. To check the wheel bearing, you need to shake the wheel, if there is play, then this indicates a poor condition of the bearing.

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