VIDEO
Gear shift Based on the input signals, the ECU issues or does not issue control commands to the solenoid valves to ensure the normal operation of the system (clutches, brakes and gearbox hydraulics). ECU also provides: - quality of gear shifting, - control the protection of the gearbox elements. Disconnecting the engine and gearbox when the vehicle is stationary This function allows you to temporarily prohibit the slow spontaneous movement of the car when the car is stationary with the gear engaged and the brake pedal depressed. This function allows you to: ● reduce fuel consumption, ● reduce vehicle vibration, ● to reduce the drag of the vehicle in order not to overload the hydraulic actuators, ● increase the service life of the oil. This function is carried out by the gearbox ECU, which temporarily and quickly reduces the pressure in the clutch circuit. For this, the clutch solenoid valve remains on for as long as the operating conditions are maintained (the vehicle is stationary, the gear is engaged and the brake pedal is depressed).
Video (click to play).
Torque control This function is used to control the torque setpoints for certain gear changes, while informing the injection computer. This feature improves gear shifting conditions and protects mechanical parts. Shift-lock This function is used to lock the lever in the Parking position. Instrument panel display This function is used to send information over the multiplex network, which is necessary for display on the instrument panel. * Slipping: Slipping is the consumption of a portion of the engine's energy and therefore results in increased fuel consumption and reduced engine braking capabilities.
Zmei »February 13th, 2011, 10:38 am
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The happy owner of Renault Espace IV describes in great detail the process of replacing the ball levers of the front suspension with photographs.
Good day to all happy owners of the fourth Spaceship or Renault Espace IV! I myself have been using the device for more than six months - only positive impressions!
Delightful visibility, comfort and spaciousness in the seating of the driver and passengers (at the bottom of the middle seats for children, you can organize a sandbox), smooth running, etc. The perfect family car!
In addition to enjoying the operation of this wonderful mobile, sometimes (very rarely) you have to take care of it. And now it's time to replace the ball levers of the front suspension, so that in the future the car will please with its smooth and soft gait.
Having studied the technical recommendations for replacing the front suspension ball arms, I came to the conclusion that I can do it myself.
Armed with a technical passport for the spacecraft, I went to the car market and purchased Turkish ball levers of the front suspension (for my spacecraft, the right and left levers turned out to be exactly the same!).
For the weekend I rented a garage with an inspection pit from my father-in-law and started the "operation" for the successful completion of which we need the following tools:
• wheel wrench; • two jacks (you can do with one if you can put the car body on a reliable support); • spanner key "star" size 22, preferably straight (MANDATORY); • box spanner 17x19; • manual cutting machine of the "Bulgarian" type and cutting disc for metal; • a hammer from 1 kg, a large chisel and a punch with a diameter of up to 14 mm.
Remove the decorative cover from the front left wheel. Let's start on the left side, and the right side changes in the same way! We loosen the tightening on the wheel bolts and raise the car body on the jack from the side of the front left wheel.
We install the body on a wooden stand, and leave the jack for insurance
Our attention opens the shock absorber strut, brake disc, steering rod and the ball lever itself
Model history
The first Renault Espace debuted back in the 80s. The 4th Espace went into production in 2002. Four years later, the Frenchman underwent a slight modernization. The changes are modest and hard to see: a new front bumper, brighter headlights, redesigned taillights and a few new interior details.
In 2012, Renault decided on another facelift. This time, the changes were more obvious, but without revelation. Most noticeable is the transformation of the front end: the air intake in the bumper has been expanded, the chrome trim for the fog lights has been added, the radiator grille and side mirror housings have been changed. In addition, there is a new navigation kit, a reversing camera and leather upholstery with the addition of Teflon. At the end of 2014, the van of the next - fifth generation replaced it.
The French minivan earned 5 stars in EuroNCAP crash tests.
R4 2.0 (136 HP) / 2002-2008
R4 2.0 Turbo (163-170 HP) / 2002-2013
V6 3.5 (241-245 HP) / 2006-2010
R4 1.9 (115-120 HP) / 2002-2006
R4 2.0 (150-175 HP) / 2006-2014
R4 2.2 (140-150 HP) / 2002-2007
V6 3.0 (177-180 HP) / 2006-2010
The range of power units is really rich, but some of the engines are plagued by serious malfunctions. Unfortunately, we are talking about all turbodiesels, without exception. In the basic 1.9 dCi, malfunctions of the injection system (from 16,000 rubles per nozzle), the EGR valve and the turbocharger are noted. In addition to everything, there is a premature wear of the connecting rod bearings. The reason is known: the oil change interval is too long - 30,000 km. The control electronics are also not reliable, and with high mileage, oil leaks appear. Owners of cars with 2.2 dCi point to the same problems.
Nor should you be tempted by the Isuzu 3-liter turbodiesel. This is one of the most unsuccessful engines ever installed in Renault. Over time, its sleeves are displaced, which is why a "gap" is formed between the head and the block, through which gases rush into the cooling system and squeeze out antifreeze. In addition, faulty injectors often lead to piston burnout. There are also problems with the plastic intake manifold. After 2006, the engine was modernized and the designation was changed from P9X 701 to P9X 715. According to mechanics, the improved diesel is not free from defects, but they occur much less frequently.
Among diesel engines, the 2.0 dCi, which appeared in 2006, enjoys the best reputation. There are two versions of this motor. The first, 175-horsepower has a short-lived timing chain, which can be replaced only by removing the motor. The chain resource is about 150-200 thousand km. The costs will be about 30,000 rubles. The second, 150-horsepower has a more reliable timing chain, which is replaced only if necessary, and even then, after 300,000 km. From the outside, both motors are indistinguishable. With too long intervals of oil renewal, the problem of cranking the liners is also not alien to him.
The petrol 2.0 Turbo deserves the most attention. The engine provides quite acceptable dynamics with reasonable fuel consumption. The turbo engine is known for its hardy piston engine even from the Megane RS.
Slightly less interesting is the 3.5-liter petrol V6. Its disadvantage is damage to the gasket under the block head. But Espace with such an engine accelerates well and burns about 14 l / 100 km. For such a large volume, this is a pretty good result. The basic atmospheric unit does not create problems in operation, but, of course, it cannot cope with a car of this size.
Only the 2.0 dCi and 3.5-liter V6 petrol have a timing chain drive. In other engines, the timing mechanism is driven by a toothed belt.
Transmission
All versions of Renault Espace 4 have front-wheel drive only. Engine thrust is transmitted through a 6-speed manual gearbox, as well as through a 5 or 6-speed automatic transmission (from 3.0 dCi after 2006 and from 2.0dCi after 2010).
Both automatic transmissions are designed by Japanese engineers Aisin. Automatic transmission repair may be required after 200-250 thousand km, which will require 60-100 thousand rubles. Sometimes the mechanics also fail (up to 50-80 thousand rubles for a bulkhead).
The front suspension uses classic MacPherson struts and the rear uses a twist beam.
The most common malfunctions relate to elements such as ball bearings of levers (from 500 rubles per ball) and stabilizer struts. Tie rod ends are not particularly durable. However, the repair costs are not high and many of the components are suitable for the Renault Laguna II, for which the market is full of cheap substitutes.
Hub bearings have to be changed after 200-250 thousand km. Soon it will be the turn of shock absorbers (from 2,000 rubles), front springs (from 3,000 rubles) and an outer SHRUS (5-7 thousand rubles).
At high mileage, the lateral stability rod of the rear beam can rot. The new traction costs 25,000 rubles, however, the old traction can often be brewed.
The steering will not be overlooked either. It may be necessary to repair the steering rack (18,000 rubles) or the power steering pump (from 6,000 rubles), or replace the steering shaft cross.
The Grand Espace (top) differs from the Espace (bottom) in its increased wheelbase (2868 mm instead of 2803 mm) and length (4861 mm instead of 4661 mm).
Typical problems and malfunctions
The previous generation of the model in terms of reliability showed itself not from the best side. Unfortunately, his successor was not much better. A whole bunch of defects.
The Espace body has no corrosion problems. The doors and bonnet are made of aluminum, the front fenders are made of plastic and the tailgate is made of fiberglass. Only a few owners report the appearance of "bubbles" on the paintwork around the door handles.
Traces of wear on the seat upholstery and door panels can become noticeable after 150-200 thousand km.
Renault Espace owners complain about malfunctioning cards and card readers of the Hands Free keyless entry system, as well as tire pressure sensors. The air conditioner control panel, instrument panel and all sorts of displays have their own quirks. Lighting, a generator, central locking, a tuner and an audio system amplifier bring a lot of trouble.
The on-board electronics can be damaged if, for example, the earth is removed from the battery immediately after switching off the engine.To avoid this, you can de-energize the car no earlier than half an hour after turning off the ignition.
The heater fan can fail due to wear on the electric motor, defective resistor or speed controller. Sometimes the air conditioning compressor also fails. ABS malfunctions occur due to dirt and oxides in the valve body. From time to time, the vacuum brake booster also fails.
Over time, the spare wheel lowering mechanism "sours".
All that Renault Espace can be blamed for is a large number of minor faults and poor quality of finishing materials. But there is so much space inside that a large family with luggage can easily fit. In addition to everything, the rear seats can be positioned to your liking: unfold, swivel or simply take out. The huge number of different compartments for little things deserves praise. Another important advantage is the comfortable suspension, which is invaluable on long journeys. Most preferred are young specimens after restyling, preferably with a diesel 2.0 dCi, gasoline 2.0 Turbo or atmospheric 2.0.
Weaknesses are typical:
1. Premature wear of liners was most common in diesel 1.9 and 2.2 dCi.
2. A defective center display is common.
3. EGR valve.
4. The individual suspension components are fairly cheap and readily available. Support bearings, ball bearings and stabilizer struts require regular replacement.
Specifications
The third generation French minivan Renault Espace was produced from 1997 to 2003 in its homeland in two bodies. In addition to the short wheelbase, there is also an extended version of the Grand. Both versions are highly secure (4 stars according to Euro NCAP ) and rich equipment.
The transformable salon pleases with comfort and excellent sound insulation, visibility from the driver's seat is beyond praise. Only the dashboard in the center of the dashboard looks unusual.
The corrosion resistance of the galvanized body, like most of the French, is rated excellent, and the large trunk will delight those who like to travel.
Separately, I would like to note the excellent driving characteristics of the Renault Espace III, which, however, do not save from poor cornering stability. The rolls at high speed are quite impressive. The prices of spare parts can also upset.
All engines installed on Reno Aspace 3, are distinguished by high reliability and durability , before overhaul without problems, they take care of 500 thousand km. Only incomprehensible electrical anomalies, accompanied by a sharp drop in revs, upset.
Firstly, the timing belt changes only complete with tension and idler rollers, as well as the crankshaft pulley bolt.
Secondly, there is the following drawback: the lower timing belt cover is located too close to the accessory drive belt, which gradually delaminates and there is a real danger of the belt jumping onto the stream and tightening it under the timing gear. The consequences are quite unpleasant, only cylinder head repair without the cost of parts will cost ≈ $ 500-700.
Engine oil seals and gaskets are prone to depressurization, which is why oil starvation is really possible. Therefore, if oil leaks are detected, it will be necessary to constantly monitor its level.
Of the gasoline engines, the most widespread is a two-liter sixteen-valve engine with a capacity of 140 hp, which is notable for its good economy. Renault fuel consumption does not exceed 8 liters on the highway and 12 liters in the city per 100 kilometers.
There are also three-liter gasoline engines on the market, but they are very, very gluttonous. The twenty-four-valve V6 on the highway barely fits into 9 liters per 100 km, and in the city the consumption reaches 17 liters / 100 km. Well, the three-liter PRV is generally ruinous for the family budget - 10l / 21l / 100km.
Of the diesel modifications, the most common are a powerful and high-torque 2.0 dCi of 150 hp, consuming 6l / 9l / 100km on the highway and in the city, respectively (for some reason, many believe that this is a bit too much for such a volume), as well as an economical twelve-valve 2.2TD with a flow rate of 7l / 11l / 100km.
There is also a powerful and economical 2.2 DCi (7l / 9l / 100km), but it is very picky about fuel quality, and generally capricious in operation.
The transmission, on the contrary, pleases with reliability, especially manual gearboxes.Basically, you will have to constantly monitor the oil seals and gaskets of the gearbox, the leakage of which is the main cause of all mechanical transmission breakdowns. The clutch can handle up to 100 thousand kilometers without any problems, the critical wear of the driven disc is manifested by engine vibrations. It's better not to mess with an automatic transmission, its reliability is far from ideal - this is the main drawback of Renault Espeys with automatic transmission.
The suspension is energy-intensive, and you are guaranteed comfort even on our roads.
Here's the chassis disappointing, its reliability was not up to par due to overload, which she is afraid of in panic. Almost every 50 thousand km you will have to squeeze and diagnose all the Espace chassis components in order to exclude the occurrence of suspension malfunctions on a long journey.
The brakes are reliable, only the brake discs turned out to be short-lived.
The steering is reliable and informative, the steering rack can only leak after 150 thousand km of operation. Around the same period, the service life of the power steering pump also ends.
The electrical equipment of the Renault Espace III cannot be called a model of reliability - it is rather the main sore of all Renault cars. Control lamps and various buttons can fail at any time, and it is almost impossible to identify the reasons for the failures. The climate control unit placed on the door also looks unusual.
This Official file includes a description and repair manuals, the Engine and its systems for the Renault Espace car.
Content: ENGINE AND LOWER ASSEMBLY Consumables Identification Oil pressure Engine - transmission Oil pan
TOP AND FRONT ENGINE Removal - installation of an accessory drive belt Timing belt Timing Belt Tensioner Tensioning the accessory drive belt Cylinder Head Gasket, G-F-Z Engine Front head gasket, Z7X engine Oil filler neck
FUEL-AIR MIXTURE Basic information Throttle body Collectors Intake manifold Exhaust manifolds Exhaust manifold with turbo system Turbocharging pressure adjustment Pressure regulator (wastegate) Turbocharger Air-to-air heat exchanger
POWER SUPPLY - PUMPS - PRE-HEATING Air supply Air intake Air filter Fuel supply Injectors Fuel rail Fuel pump Emergency fuel cut Fuel filter Fuel pressure Diesel equipment Specifications High pressure fuel pump Description Tightening torques Computer pin assignments Arrangement of elements Idle speed adjustment Throttle Lever Potentiometer High pressure fuel pump High pressure fuel pump - Setting the injection phases Coded solenoid valve Pre and post heating control KSB injection timing advance system Load accounting system ALFB Rapid idle control Exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) system Emergency mode Glow plugs Injectors Fuel filter Power steering pump
TOXICITY REDUCTION SYSTEM Recovery of oil vapors Gasoline vapor recovery Catalytic converter - oxygen sensor Fuel Lead Test
STARTING THE ENGINE AND CHARGING THE BATTERY Generator: characteristics removal-installation tension order Starter: characteristics removal-installation
IGNITION SYSTEM - INJECTION SYSTEM Ignition system Static ignition system Spark plug Injection system F3R Specifications Placing elements Features of sequential injection Anti-theft engine start lock Operation of the injection system and air conditioning system Idle speed correction Adaptive idle speed correction Regulation of the composition of the fuel mixture Adaptive Fuel Ratio Trim Power steering pressure switch Injection system Z7X Specifications Injection warning light Coolant temperature sensor Knock sensors Throttle potentiometer Idle speed control valve Oxygen sensor Top dead center sensor
COOLING SYSTEM - ENGINE SUSPENSION - EXHAUST SYSTEM - FUEL TANK Cooling system Specifications Precautionary measures Filling and venting Examination Schematic: motor F engine Z engine G Cooling system elements set Water pump Interior heating radiator hoses Engine mount Pendulum suspension Exhaust system Basic information Resonator and catalytic converter Resonator and muffler Catalytic converter Fuel tank Main tank: removal-installation Basic information Filler neck
So: Without what, you can not immediately start disassembling? Without a torx screwdriver for 20 and this screwdriver attachment.
Without it, unscrewing the ashtray under the panel is unrealistic. It is also unrealistic to unscrew it without some acrobatic experience, because the head must lie on the rug in order to somehow see the ashtray screws. Here they are: But to get to them you need to: 1. pull out the ashtray, 2. gently squeeze the latches from the inside and remove the bottom cover from it: Unscrewed? Ohhsho. Put it aside just to the side without turning it off. Let's continue. Now we remove all the plastic pads that prevent us from getting to the radiators.
We start with the glove compartment lid. It is necessary to unscrew 7 screws. They are different, remember where which ones:
Unscrewed? Now you can take your time to take out all the stash of the necessary things from the glove compartment, after removing the shelf, (press on the two side protrusions on the walls and remove) and pull the radio out of the box. Now you need to remove the radio box: 1. Remove the side cover - just hook it up with a screwdriver until the two latches snap into place. 2. Unscrew the two self-tapping screws in the middle: 3. Unscrew the three self-tapping screws on the side with a long screwdriver (right side view):
Now we unscrew the two screws that attach the glove compartment to the cross member - on the right under the carpet, on the left under the removed radio box:
Let's leave the glove compartment to experience our emptiness for now and take up the decorative lining of the torpedo.
Let's start with the steering column shrouds: 1. Unscrew the radio remote control (turn the steering wheel, remove the back cover from the remote control and unscrew the self-tapping screw). I forgot the photo. 2. Unscrew 5 self-tapping screws of the lower casing, remove:
3. Turning the steering wheel, unscrew the two self-tapping screws of the upper casing, remove. We remember how the ignition lock ring stood:
We move to the side overlays (for example, the left one, the right one is identical): Unscrew the four self-tapping screws: 1. Top left:
2. Bottom left: 3. Bottom right: 4. Under the cover (remove, picking up with a screwdriver and disconnect the connectors, remembering where which):
Now the lining in the area of the steering column: Two self-tapping screws of the upper lining (two latches at the back):
Three self-tapping screws for the bottom pad: above: below: Remove the cover by disconnecting the panel backlight dimmer connector.
Side top covers: Two self-tapping screws left:
Two self-tapping screws right: Torx for the right one necessarily with a hole !:
And the last insert under the upper steering column cover. Four self-tapping screws:
Self-tapping screws, so as not to get lost and so as not to remember which one from where, I screw it into place after removing the part.
So the glove compartment has freed itself from its surroundings, you can remove it. Having previously pulled out the lamp cover with a screwdriver and disconnected its connector.
You can smoke, go to the club, see new topics and start working on pieces of iron.
First, detach the steering column: Two Torx 40 bolts on top:
Two nuts 13 from the bottom: We take out the rubber plug of the steering shaft from the opening of the engine shield, put the steering wheel straight, unscrew the nut on the 13th gimbal fork and take out the bolt from under the hood: Using the assembly tool, carefully remove the cardan plug from the rail shaft: We take out the cardan into the salon and take it towards the tunnel so as not to interfere.
From under the hood, we unhook the clutch cable, in the cabin we remove the cable from the pedal.
With a high head of 13, unscrew the four nuts of the pedal assembly: Three can be reached without any particular problems:
To get to the fourth, you need to remove the left stopper from the pedal axis and three washers and move the clutch pedal to the left:
We remove the pedal assembly, after first disconnecting the brake pedal from the pusher of the vacuum cleaner, and disconnecting the connector from the stop switch. You can already start "Saw, Shura, Saw!"
It was inconvenient for me to cut with a canvas. A drywall saw is much more fun:
I didn’t cut out the jumper of the branch pipes, but simply took the “cobra” and broke them off to the devil’s mother without waiting for peritonitis. After that, the remnants of the pipes are pushed into the engine compartment and removed from the hoses (remembering where which one). Tip: to make it easier to pull out the pipes, you must first turn them relative to the hoses. I held the pipes with pliers, the hoses with my hands, I squeezed the stops with my fingers - everything can be removed perfectly.
Now you can, by unscrewing the two self-tapping screws that hold the radiator, pull it out into the light of day, remove the cover and see what's inside. Beauty?
That's all. We pack the radiators back: - having previously oriented how they should stand, we put the pipes in place (so as not to jam the sealing rings on the pipes and it is easier to put them into the motor partition and into the hoses, I lubricated everything with liquid soap, and the flash from the pipes also does not interfere with removing) - put the radiator in place (after carefully wiping the stove body from the inside from the remnants of the spilled coolant), twist the pipes and the radiator together - put on the hoses until you click on the pipes
We change the right radiator in the same way.
We start the engine, add coolant, check all connections for leaks.
Putting everything back in reverse order.
I did the first and I hope that the last time. Took eight hours with two rest breaks and sitting in the club. Chinese radiators, compared to the original ones, have a smaller fin area, but they heat well, I hope I will not freeze in winter.
PS: be careful with the immobilizer antenna ring around the ignition switch when you remove and install the steering column covers. ZZY: when you put the pedal assembly in place, check the position of the stop switch. ZZZY: when reassembling, when you put the glove compartment in place, remember about the wire for the plafond lighting. I've personally forgotten and remembered about it only when it was time to put the ashtray in place.
VIDEO
Timing marks, installation of injection pump and timing belt, Renault Master engine 2.2 DCI G9T, 2.5DCI G9U. For donations for the development of the Yandex Money channel - 410015710110711 WebMoney - Z343283619217 - R240728678337 - U114386634910
Don't forget to watch the first part.
Warming up the engine before driving. It is believed that modern car engines do not need to be preheated. Manufacturers argue that engine technology has changed and engines can be loaded to near their maximum capacity immediately after starting. In the manuals for the operation of cars, it is recommended to warm up the engine in motion, and warming up in place is sometimes prohibited with the words that it is harmful to the engine. But what is behind these words?
How to remove the parking brake cable in Espace for subsequent replacement
Release date: 03.06.2015
The reasoning of a car owner named Sarmat: Low fuel consumption on the highway within 7-8 liters, in city 9-10 and this is all in normal mode, not economy, and considering that 180 hp needs to be fed. I can say one thing after driving 75,000 km just replaced the front pads.
Category: The most useful tips for operating a car
Characteristics of the car: The diameter of one cylinder is 78 mm, the piston stroke is 70 mm. The dimensions of the car are as follows, body length - 3449, width - 1100, height - 1304 mm. The wheelbase is 2631 mm. The ground clearance is 227 mm. The car is equipped with a hybrid power unit. The 2-cylinder engine is equipped with a system that provides the output power of the engine. There are 4 valves per cylinder. The engine crankshaft and accelerates to 4000 rpm. The maximum torque is maintained up to 3000 rpm.
Posted by admin: at the request of Denis
Original title: Electric diagram Renault 4 Espace
Subject laughter: A married couple is driving on a suburban highway. They are in no hurry, the speed is 60 kilometers. The husband is driving. The wife, sitting on the right, turns to him and says: - Honey, we have been married for 15 years, but today I decided to tell you that I want a divorce. The husband does not answer, only gradually increases the speed to 70 kilometers. - And I don’t want so that you dissuade me, it has already been decided. I sleep with your best friend, and he is a much better lover than you. Again, the husband does not answer, but increases the speed to 80 kilometers per hour. “I take our house away from you. The husband drives at a speed of 90.“ And the children. ” Now the speedometer is already 100 kilometers. "And also all your money and your car. The husband is silent, only gradually begins to direct the car to the support of the nearest bridge on the road." Do you need anything? The wife asks. “No, I have everything I need,” the husband finally answers. “So what?” And a second before the car hit the concrete wall, he replies: “An airbag.
RENAULT ESPACE IV since 2002 petrol / diesel Service and maintenance manual
Illustrated reference and information edition of the Renault Espace IV repair manual, as well as the operation, maintenance manual and the Renault Espace IV device. The production of cars of this brand has been carried out since 2002. The cars are equipped with gasoline engines with a working volume of 2.0 (136 and 165 hp), 3.5 liters. (245 HP), as well as diesel engines with a working volume of 1.9 (120 HP), 2.2 (150 HP), 3.0 (165 and 180 HP).
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Illustrated reference and information edition of the Renault Espace IV repair manual, as well as the operation, maintenance manual and the Renault Espace IV device. The production of cars of this brand has been carried out since 2002. The cars are equipped with gasoline engines with a working volume of 2.0 (136 and 165 hp), 3.5 liters. (245 HP), as well as diesel engines with a working volume of 1.9 (120 HP), 2.2 (150 HP), 3.0 (165 and 180 HP).
All technical and repair publications are puzzled, first of all, to help diagnose the technical condition of the machine, and, if necessary, to always be at the hand of its owner and give him the most competent explanation about the nature of the breakdown and explain how quickly and with minimal costs such a malfunction can be eliminated. The presented Renault Espace 4 repair brochure is no exception in this sense. That is why it has the very place in the glove compartment wherever you go.
Regardless of the brand of the car used, motorists clearly understand that today almost all special maintenance centers - we are now talking about Renault - will not be located further than the next 10-20 kilometers from large cities, or they can still be found at the crossroads of the most important roads. This is a well-known fact - over the past years, global changes for the better in service indicators on the tracks have not been observed. And if something happens to your car somewhere on a completely ordinary section of a country road, it may happen that there is no one to provide you with much-needed assistance.But any trouble is always unpredictable - if we knew what awaits us, we would simply prepare for such things in advance and easily solve the problem as it comes. Here is a similar situation - by purchasing a book on repairing Renault Espeys 4, you simply insure yourself for the future from a lot of unwanted incidents that may happen on the road. At least you will meet them fully armed.
It is necessary to mention this tendency: more and more motorists are beginning to understand that if they had such repair manuals in their hands earlier, they could perform many of the procedures for repairing their iron friends without extra costs and on their own, and not go to special services, often leaving there inadequate money for the work done.
At the beginning of the brochure, the publishers placed the manual for the Renault Espace IV. The information that any driver needs about carrying out the current self-maintenance, electrical wiring diagrams (wiring diagrams) of the station wagon can be found in separate chapters of the operational and technical manual.
This manual will help in a difficult situation those who are going to buy or already own Renault Espace 4, mechanics of numerous road car centers, service station employees, car services, repair shops and many other professional repairmen.
Video (click to play).
BOOK CONTENTS REPAIR, OPERATION AND MAINTENANCE MANUAL RENAULT ESPACE IV since 2002 petrol / diesel