Cars Renault Megane (Renault Megane) 1996-2002 onwards — Service, repair and operation manual
Repair and maintenance manual — On-line manual in Russian for Renault Megane, Scenic (since 1996)
Idle adjustment stepper motor - an article on restoring the operation of the idle adjustment stepper motor
VIDEO
FLUID LEVELS coolant level The normal coolant level on a cold engine should be between the "MINI" and "MAXI" marks on the wall of the expansion tank. Add coolant when the engine is cold, not allowing the level to drop below the “MINI” mark. Do not check or service the cooling system when the engine is hot. This may cause burns.
Video (click to play).
Coolant Level Check Frequency Check the coolant level regularly (if there is no coolant, the engine may be damaged).
If topping up is necessary, use only coolant grades approved by RENAULT technical departments that provide: – protection against freezing; – anti-corrosion protection of the engine cooling system. If you notice a rapid or repeated drop in the coolant level, contact a RENAULT Dealership.
Coolant change interval Replacement interval: See service book.
All engines are overhead camshaft mounted transversely at the front of the vehicle.
Some models are equipped with a five-speed manual transmission, while others are equipped with a four-speed automatic transmission.
All models are front wheel drive. Front wheel suspension - independent, rear - semi-independent.
Interior trim is distinguished by high taste and variety. Advanced models are equipped with a single lock, power windows, a sunroof, anti-slip brakes (ABS) and air conditioning.
By the end of 1996, Renault showed the Megane Scenic, a monocab based on the Megane golf class hatchback. He was one of the "revolutionaries" of this class - like crossovers and SUVs, that is, like they have their customers who do not need a heavy frame, complex all-terrain transmission and super-high ground clearance, but only a "jeep" look, and slightly off-road capabilities. better, or at the level of a Zhiguli (that is, excellent for a passenger car, but not for a jeep), so these micro-minibuses immediately found customers! That is, customers who, although not mentally ready for the "bus" size, heavy handling and similar "special effects", but who dream of having a lot of space in the back of a golf class hatchback, both for luggage and overhead and around. The hero of our review is ready to meet just such needs. By the way, why didn’t they come up with a new name for them, because there is an “SUV” and “crossover” / “SUV” ?! This comparison with jeeps is not without reason, because Renault made a double blow - by releasing not only the "Scenic" mega station wagon, but also the RX4 - a crossover based on it.
All in-line four-cylinder engines, with eight or sixteen valves, developed 64-140 hp. Gasoline had a 1.4-liter volume (75 hp or 95: eight or sixteen valves), 1.6 liter (75 or 90 hp with eight or 107-110 with sixteen valves), 2-liter (114 hp . or 138-140: eight or sixteen valves). And the diesel engines were all 1.9-liter and eight-valve - naturally aspirated versions produced 64 and 65 hp, and turbocharged 80, 95-98, 100-105 hp. As we can see, a wide range for such a car, which is rather characteristic of the Germans, especially taking into account the all-wheel drive version of the PX4, only the hot version is missing!
The Scenic was restyled in 1999. He got a different dashboard, headlights of a new design, and the front of the body. They also launched the all-wheel drive modification RX4 (with a viscous coupling as a central differential) with a ground clearance increased to 210 mm. And new versions of gasoline engines - sixteen-valve engines: 1.4-16v producing 95 hp, and 1.6-16v with a return of 107-110 hp.
New engines appeared on the Scenic in 2000: a new version of the 2.0-liter gasoline engine with a return of 140 hp. (for RX4) and turbodiesel 1.9 l, 80 hp. (index dTi) and 102 hp. (index dO).
And finally, in 2003, the well-deserved Scenic First was replaced by Renault Scenic Second.
It should be noted that despite its friendliness and spaciousness, the “Scenic” still does not reach the middle class sedans in terms of comfort, so for long-distance travel you can find a car that is both quieter and softer (although comfort is a relative concept) . well and in urban conditions, he is just on top : what is its excellent review worth.
Demand for the first generation Scenics, especially restyled versions, today exceeds supply, and in this regard, they do not stay on the market for a long time. For example, in Moscow, ten-year-old copies will cost 200-250 thousand rubles. With operating costs, as it turns out: they often strictly depend on the literacy of the previous owner.
As mentioned above, the Scenic was equipped with a whole “near-German” range of engines from a 1.4-liter base to a top-end two-liter, and almost all of them come across in the “secondary”. We practically don’t have diesel versions, and for good reason, since their restoration and maintenance require special qualifications, and there were “misunderstandings” and complaints about the reliability of late engines with direct diesel fuel injection, which improves the economy and efficiency of the engine.
Attempts to manually replace the timing belt under garage conditions on sixteen-valve engines quite often end in failure. The fact is that for these motors, the drive gears of the shafts are fixed in the required position solely due to friction, and the clamping is achieved by tightening the bolts. The bolt should be loosened, then the gear on the shaft begins to rotate. To expose it “by eye” is a meaningless thing, since there is a set of special tools and devices for this. However, of course, only in a specialized service. This is where you should go, as it will cost much less than a potential overhaul of the motor if the experiment fails. Well, it’s easier for the owners of “one-rollers”, because in these motors the most common key landing. Changing the roller along with the belt is not only desirable, but also mandatory, also for the purpose of prevention and the pump, since this part is not very durable.
Another well-known "garage" trick is the valve cracking with a hammer blow. The fact is that it is rarely possible to strike strictly along the axis, and even a small displacement is already enough to leave a trace of cracker on the rod - risk. This risk and then can "guarantee" crazy oil consumption for waste, namely every 1000 km over 1.5 liters.
Our tar-rich gasoline is capable of laying a pig. It is necessary to keep the valve bushings under control, because plenty of thick ointment will accumulate on them, then one day when the engine is started, the valve will not sit in the saddle, which threatens that the thin rod will bend from the impact of the piston.And in order to prevent this, it is periodically useful, every 30-45 thousand km, to clean the soot by “flushing the injector”. It is not recommended to pour any cleaning compounds into the tank. A sign that “raised turbidity” has reached the motor is the interruption of the first nozzle, the fact is that it gets the largest amount of dirt.
Further, one should not get carried away with washing the motor under pressure, especially the K4M sample, where the coils of the device are connected to each other in pairs. A short circuit occurs due to moisture, which disables them.
All gasoline engines start well, even in the cold. They have few reasons for rejection. Sometimes the contact in the blocks of the crankshaft position and engine temperature sensors disappears (here it is enough to crimp the contacts), sometimes (on F3R engines) the wires of the latter may break off, and by 100 t.
On the F3R engine, unstable idling can sometimes be eliminated by lightly hitting the valve, or the idle speed control. However, such a valve will not last long, so it is worth preparing a replacement for it. On a 1.6 liter K7M, the plastic throttle gradually wears out. If, when the accelerator is released, the engine speed begins to fall below the permissible value, then it may be time to change the assembly.
Now consider the suspension. She is not the weakest point of the Scenic. Most often, stabilizer bushings wear out in the front suspension, which let you know about it by tapping the strut supports. These parts are inexpensive. And a knock in the rear suspension indicates that either the silent blocks have worn out, or the bearing inside the beam, where the torsion bars pass, or the shock absorbers - the latter do not work here in the most favorable position in terms of load on this part - at an angle. Since the bulkhead of the rear suspension beam is an expensive operation, because of this, many drivers simply “reach” the suspension for years, because the torsion bars have enough reserve of reliability and rigidity so as not to crumble.
On the Scenics, the clutch assembly lasts quite a long time, up to 180 tons. Km. The gearbox is also pleased with its reliability, except for the problem of oil leakage through the oil seal of the speed selection rod that occurs over time. Although it will be expensive to change the seals according to the factory technology, it is reliable. As a "pre-sale option" - glue from pieces. Some owners can cut and then splice the rod with a coupling: here the result directly depends on the experience of the master.
Oil can also leave the box through the boot of the left CV joint - after 60-120 tons. Km. Changing it is an easy task. But here you will have to put on the outer covers through the CV joint or change the drive assembly, which is an expensive pleasure. They need to be protected and one truth to be remembered: the Scenic, although it has quite easy handling, is not a rally car, even in the all-wheel drive version.
Consider a very curious modification of the RX4. Although the ErX4 looks very tempting, not only thanks to the impressive wheels and ground clearance, but also the plastic body kit, however, behind the flashy name 4x4 there is nothing more than a passenger car for outdoor activities, which is contraindicated in deep mud and serious ravines, as well as fast driving. , with sharp accelerations and rebuildings. In our conditions, the support bearing of the cardan shaft is enough for about 30,000 km, and the expensive shaft will have to be changed as an assembly. In addition, when the stability control system stops working, for example, if the ABS sensor fails, then there is a great risk of losing control under slippery road conditions! The fact is that due to the connection of the rear axle, the behavior of the car changes dramatically. And because of this, it is wiser to opt for the more common "passenger" mono-drive version.
Here, the steering is reliable, and what about knocks in this unit, this is usually the result of dirt and torn anthers. Moreover, as it happens, the left anther is damaged, but the right support, which is more loaded, is knocking, so you need to look both ways. If the power steering began to "sweat", then do not rush to change the oil seal.For, most likely, the matter is both in the wear of the plain bearing and in the misalignment of the shaft. There is only one way out - to add liquid as you go. And do not overtighten the belt, otherwise it will cause it to be replaced ahead of time. A few words about handling and dynamics. Scenic, of course, is still not Megan, on whose bases it was made, unlike it, it rolls more when cornering, and the steering wheel does not immediately respond to the driver's actions. Although this is if we approach the assessment of handling from the point of view that when evaluating a golf class. But adjusted for the origin and class of this car, it even has a very good reactive effect on the steering wheel and its “purity”. As for acceleration, thanks to the rally, or cargo reception, although the Scenic has a slightly reduced maximum speed on the track, but the acceleration is peppy. The fact is that the transmission has a shortened row, and when an unloaded or half-empty car, acceleration will please.
When choosing a car, you should take a closer look at the braking system: are the discs covered from the inside by brake shields? If not, then you will have to change the internal pads at each maintenance, and the discs may suffer due to the “sandblasting” attack. To install the shields, you will also have to replace the steering knuckles with those with holes. Therefore, it will be easier to look for the “right” car. And do not forget that, unlike the simple Scenic, the rear of the X4 had disc brakes.
on the development of the channel Removal and bulkhead of the steering rack WITHOUT REMOVING THE SUBFRAME. Guys.
Renault Megane body disease, repair of the ear of the rear shock absorber and amplifier in the trunk floor with their own.
In this video, we change the silent blocks of the Renault Megan 2 rear beam. We also change the front shock absorbers, supports.
In the video, I showed how easy it is to identify a malfunction in the email using a regular “multimeter” (tester). chains.
Silent blocks SWAG 60 92 1039.
Repair of the rear of the car, after a collision with a pole.
In the video, I showed how easy it is to replace the fuel filter on a Renault Megane with a gasoline engine. Vendor code.
Hello everyone! The ABS light came on a month ago. As he was looking for a reason: the first thing he rang.
Replacing thresholds, arches in Renault Scenic. Other welding work. How to replace the threshold Renault Scenic. Renault Megan Scenic.
In the video, I showed the most common types of a non-working speedometer and diagnostic methods. If there is something extra.
We level, straighten the tailgate of Renault Megane Scenic with our own hands. Body repair. car body repair. Rihtovka grandfather's.
Personal experience of repairing a Renault engine (K4M) when a timing belt breaks. Description of repair, valve replacement, investigation.
A complete video on repairing a jammed Renault Megane 2 door handle.
Exhaust system repair for Renault. Exhaust system repair for Renault in St. Petersburg Repair and replacement of mufflers; Replacement.
Repair of the ear mounting of the rear shock absorber and the trunk floor at the junction with the inner fender liner. .Renault Megane Scenic.
1.4L AND 1.6L PETROL ENGINES
1.6L Models: With Manual Transmission With Automatic Transmission
K7M 702, K7M 720, K7M 790 or K7M 791 K7M 703
E7J engines K7M engines
E7J engines K7M engines
E7J engines K7M engines
1390 cm 3 1598 cm 3 Valve clearances (cold) E7J engines K7M engines Inlet valve 0.10 mm 0.10 - 0.15 mm Exhaust valve 0.25 mm 0.25 - 0.30 mm (after installing new valves 0.20 - 0.25 mm)
E7J engines K7M 702 and K7M 703 engines K7M 720 9.0 engines or K7M 790 and K7M 791 engines
1-3-4-2 (#1 cylinder on flywheel/drive plate side)
Direction of rotation of the crankshaft
Clockwise as viewed from pulley side
guest
Group: Users Posts: 390 Registration: 11.2.2010 From: Yekaterinburg User #: 17187
Have you tried starting again? I will carefully assume that the phase regulator could crackle after a long stop. And in the service they showed you bent valves from your car? Were you present during the disassembly of the cylinder head? I don't believe there is such a problem with that kind of mileage.
Megamag
Group: Active user Posts: 3292 Registration: 10.4.2008 From: St. Petersburg User #: 6649
There is no phasic on the first megans. Most likely, the belt was simply not set according to the marks or it was pulled, there is no other option, I have 155 and nothing like that, the engine runs smoothly and quietly, in principle it is not audible. And what is that sound? Crack, knock or what? If there is a crackle, then the timing is not on the marks, a knock - the hydraulic heaters are knocking. there could be a lot of reasons.
Subject
Group: Active user Posts: 55 Registration: 10/17/2010 User #: 21412
Megamag
Group: Active user Posts: 3291 Registration: 24.9.2010 From: St. Petersburg User #: 20986
Megamag
Group: Active user Posts: 3291 Registration: 24.9.2010 From: St. Petersburg User #: 20986
Megamag
Group: Users Posts: 1849 Registration: 3.7.2010 From: Tver User #: 19563
guest
Group: Users Posts: 330 Registration: 23.8.2009 From: Noginsk, MO User #: 14446
16kl are normal hardy engines, but, I agree, not for self-repair.
Megamag
Group: Users Posts: 1849 Registration: 3.7.2010 From: Tver User #: 19563
16kl are normal hardy engines, but, I agree, not for self-repair.
[/quote] here I am talking about too, but how hot the eyes are afraid of the hands do, probably having it, I would have figured it out. at a friend 1.6 16 cells. 290k mileage. so far, it works quietly and does not hawala oil .. so you still have a lot of time ahead. and about 75tykov like our topic creator, there is always a black sheep (I'm not talking about a person, but about a hemorrhoid with a car)
And why immediately pull over? maybe they didn't get it at all
Megamag
Group: Active user Posts: 2388 Registration: 23.5.2006 From: Moscow User No: 817
CS | MEGANE TEAM
Group: Moderators Posts: 11107 Registration: 11/15/2007 From: Az: Oz: Ez: Uz: Yz: User #: 4885
The mileage is clearly twisted (the third owner is 75 thousand, this is a TALE). in reality, he probably drove under 200 thousand.
Well, they changed the belts, most likely not with normal Renault servicemen (there are no marks on our engines, and only special trained people should change!).
Megamag
Group: Users Posts: 1849 Registration: 3.7.2010 From: Tver User #: 19563
The mileage is clearly twisted (the third owner is 75 thousand, this is a TALE). in reality, he probably drove under 200 thousand.
Well, they changed the belts, most likely not with normal Renault servicemen (there are no marks on our engines, and only special trained people should change!).
Sometimes there are stories like this. the most amazing thing is that you can’t ask anyone (who bought a car not long ago) everyone has their own mileage, nowhere beaten, etc. when selling my own, I’ll also bring a marafet and spin the speed. And I’ll say that I was standing in the garage uhahahaha.
especially since after the pelvis it’s generally hard to say something bad about foreign cars, if you drive for at least 3 years. You will immediately hear knocks and crickets .. and something the door slams hard. then there’s nothing of my own. As I understand it, the first foreign car. And immediately such a jamb
All engines are overhead camshaft mounted transversely at the front of the vehicle.
Some models are equipped with a five-speed manual transmission, while others are equipped with a four-speed automatic transmission.
All models are front wheel drive. Front wheel suspension - independent, rear - semi-independent.
Interior trim is distinguished by high taste and variety. Advanced models are equipped with a single lock, power windows, a sunroof, anti-slip brakes (ABS) and air conditioning.
1.0 Renault Megane cars 1.2 Vehicle identification numbers 1.3 Purchase of spare parts 1.4 Service technology, tools and equipment of the workplace 1.5 Jacking and towing 1.6 Starting the engine from an auxiliary power source 1.7 Vehicle readiness checks 1.8 Automotive chemicals, oils and lubricants 1.9 Troubleshooting 1.10 Controls and Safe Operation Practices 1.11 Keys and remote control
2.0 Maintenance 2.1 Routine maintenance schedule 2.2 Checking fluid levels 2.3 Checking the condition and pressure of the tires 2.4 Checking the wiper blades 2.5 Checking the condition and charge of the battery 2.6 Checking lamps and fuses 2.7 Changing the engine oil and filter 2.8 Removing water from the diesel engine fuel filter 2.9 Checking the front brake pads and discs 2.10 Checking the exhaust system 2.11 Verification .
3.0 Engine repair 3.1. Repair of gasoline engines 1.4 l and 1.6 l in the engine compartment 3.2. Repair of gasoline engines 2.0 l in the engine compartment 3.3. Repair of a diesel engine in the engine compartment 3.4. Engine Removal and Overhaul Procedures .
4.0 Cooling, heating system 4.1 Disconnecting and replacing coolant hoses 4.2 Removal, inspection and installation of the radiator 4.3 Removal, check of serviceability and installation of the thermostat 4.4 Checking the serviceability, removing and installing the electric fan 4.5 Check of serviceability, removal and installation of sensors of the cooling system 4.6 Removing and installing the water pump 4.7 General description of the heater 4.8 Removal and installation of heater components (all models except Scenic) 4.9 Removal and installation
5.0 Power systems, exhaust 5.1. Fuel and exhaust system - petrol models 5.2. Fuel and exhaust systems - diesel models 5.3. Exhaust emission control systems .
6.0 Engine electrical equipment 6.1. Charge and launch systems 6.2. Ignition system - petrol models 6.3. Diesel engine preheating system .
7.0 Clutch 7.1 Removing and installing the clutch cable 7.2 Checking travel, removing and installing the clutch pedal 7.3 Removal, inspection and installation of the clutch basket 7.4 Removal, inspection and installation of the release bearing .
8.0 Transmission 8.1. Manual gearbox (RKPP) 8.2. automatic transmission .
9.0 Drive shafts 9.1 Removing and installing the drive shaft 9.2 Replacing the protective boot of the outer CV joint of the drive shaft (models with 9.3 Replacing the protective cover of the inner CV joint of the right drive shaft (models with manual transmission) 9.4 Replacing the protective boot of the inner CV joint of the left drive shaft 9.5 General description of the replacement of the drive shaft protective boot (models with automatic transmission) 9.6 General description of the drive shaft bulkhead .
10.0 Brake system 10.1 Bleeding the brake hydraulic system 10.2 Replacing brake pipes and hoses 10.3 Replacing the front brake pads 10.4 Replacing the rear brake pads 10.5 Inspection, removal and installation of the front brake disc 10.6 Removal, inspection and installation of rear brake drums 10.7 Removal, reassembly and installation of front brake calipers 10.8 Removing and installing the rear brake cylinder 10.9 Removal, .
11.0 Suspension and steering 11.1 Removing and installing the front steering knuckle assembly 11.2 Checking and replacing the front wheel bearings 11.3 Removing and installing the front pillar 11.4 Bulkhead A-pillar 11.5 Removing and installing the front anti-roll bar 11.6 Removal, reassembly and installation of the lower arm of the front suspension 11.7 Removal and installation of the ball joint of the lower arm of the front suspension 11.8 Checking and replacing the rear wheel bearings.
12.0 Body 12.1 Body and bottom maintenance 12.2 Caring for upholstery and carpets 12.3 Restoration of minor body damage 12.4 Significant body damage - restoration 12.5 Removing and installing the front bumper 12.6 Removing and installing the rear bumper 12.7 Removing, installing and adjusting the hood 12.8 Removing and installing the hood latch cable 12.9 Removing and installing the hood latch 12.10 Removing and installing the door 12.11 Removing and installing door trim panel 12.12.
13.0 Onboard electrical equipment 13.1 General description of troubleshooting in the electrical system 13.2 General description of fuses and relays 13.3 Removing and installing switches 13.4 Replacing lamps (exterior lighting fixtures) 13.5 Changing bulbs (interior lights) 13.6 Removing and installing external lamp units 13.7 General description of the adjustment of the direction of the optical axis of the headlights 13.8 Removing and installing the instrument panel 13.9 Removal and installation of instrument components.
14.0 Control body dimensions 14.1 Electrical diagrams 14.2 Starting and charging system, engine cooling fan, heater 14.3 Pilot lamps and instruments 14.4 External lighting 14.5 External and internal lighting 14.6 Headlight adjustment, horn, cigarette lighter, clock/display, 14.7 Wiper, heater blower and radio 14.8 Single lock, power windows and mirrors 14.9 Siemens-Fenix 3 central injection system 14.10 Half.
Good day to all!
I don’t remember when I bought Megan’s repair book - in such a greenish color of the publishing house, either Haynes or something similar (not at hand). So there an interesting idea is proposed by the author - he determined the degree of complexity of Megan's repair work. And what is it like when replacing brake pads there is classified as “simple” and can be done by the owner himself (I will pretend that I have never done this). But infa for thought - I looked at the Renault service program. And there - in the region of 5-6 thousand, the replacement of only one side (in the sense of either the front or rear pads). So if they insist on replacing, I will ask for official recommendations - in the sense of a piece of paper (on it is native) and with the dealer's seal - and also the parameters of the part (in the sense of the block) for replacement. But the main thing is not this - I'm wondering, but who thinks what is possible and what is not - to repair INDEPENDENTLY (including remove-put-replace) on Megan. Thank you all in advance.
So the official service draws up a piece of paper, even two. They are called: “certificate of control” and “receipt for order”. There they will write to you whatever their heart desires, and thereby relieve themselves of all responsibility. “We wrote to you, but you did not!”. They once wrote to me - it is recommended to replace the steering rack. Take out and put in 25 thousand rubles. Found the fool! Passed and without their recommendations technical inspection. About replacing pads. The cost of the so-called “original” pads is 4.5 thousand per pair. Replacement work seems to be 800 rubles. So it turns out 5.3 thousand rubles. So, the work itself is not so expensive (for someone). In this matter, the main principle is: what kind of a man are you, if you can’t even change the pads yourself ?! And on your last question, my opinion is: do not ask stupid questions. Someone is “not scrapped” and sorting out the engine himself, but someone cannot change the dipped beam bulb himself (or does not want to). So what.
Thank you. But, with your permission, I'll correct you: 1. official service - he is also a dealer - does not put a seal on the control certificate, and the receipt does not indicate the dimensions of the parts. (I did not misspoke). 2. The fact that you passed a technical inspection “without their recommendations” is already “hot”, here it’s interesting in more detail, did you do it yourself (in the sense of a man)? 3. Pads - skip. 4. You need to ask any questions - the truth is more precious than life. And about the “stupid” ones: remember your questions to your wife (before she became one)
Hey! The fact that the dealer does not put a seal is your problem, because the organization's seal is provided for in the certificate form. Need to demand. The question is different: as I said, they can write whatever their heart desires. But how are you going to prove later (and where?) that they are bred “for cash”, requiring you to prematurely replace parts? In my opinion, in our country it is best to understand the car yourself and make your own decision. And this applies especially to female drivers. They are the most “favorite” customers on the service. Technical inspection - nothing interesting. What do they call them at the service station - masters? Said: You have play in the steering rack. I asked him: How did you measure it? Finger? (Which, by the way, was.He put his finger on the wheel and asked to turn the steering wheel). Bumped: I don't know anything, go to the traffic police inspector. Okay, it's not hard for me. I found the traffic police inspector - the captain. Invited. We approached the car. We talked again. This time everything turned out to be fine. A real man has two beloved wives: a legal one at home and a car in the garage
The certificate of control is a dummy, which is pampered by “children” drivers. They hang it or glue it wherever they want (in my case, on the back of the hood and on the rear-view mirror, they “sculpted”). In general, advertising and nothing more. When you understand cars, I agree that it’s good, and probably not only in our country. But to repair - on your own - only not very complex components and parts are possible - pads, lighting, for example. And as for specific measurements - indeed, the dealer (and even the service station) do everything by eye. Because it so happened that the LIKE-CAMBLE and BODY GEOMETRY are considered serious. Well, in a pinch, ICE can also be called a serious issue. Although, as you said, it can also be sorted out in almost every yard. Therefore, it is interesting what else you can sort out yourself from a simple one.
on the development of the channel Removal and bulkhead of the steering rack WITHOUT REMOVING THE SUBFRAME. Guys.
Renault Megane body disease, repair of the ear of the rear shock absorber and amplifier in the trunk floor with their own.
Repair of the rear of the car, after a collision with a pole.
Silent blocks SWAG 60 92 1039.
In the video, I showed how easy it is to identify a malfunction in the email using a regular “multimeter” (tester). chains.
We level, straighten the tailgate of Renault Megane Scenic with our own hands. Body repair. car body repair. Rihtovka grandfather's.
In this video, we change the silent blocks of the Renault Megan 2 rear beam. We also change the front shock absorbers, supports.
Hello everyone! The ABS light came on a month ago. As he was looking for a reason: the first thing he rang.
In the video, I showed the most common types of a non-working speedometer and diagnostic methods. If there is something extra.
A complete video on repairing a jammed Renault Megane 2 door handle.
Replacing thresholds, arches in Renault Scenic. Other welding work. How to replace the threshold Renault Scenic. Renault Megan Scenic.
Personal experience of repairing a Renault engine (K4M) when a timing belt breaks. Description of repair, valve replacement, investigation.
The composition "Easy Jam" belongs to the performer Kevin MacLeod. License: Creative Commons Attribution (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/).
Repair of the ear mounting of the rear shock absorber and the trunk floor at the junction with the inner fender liner. .Renault Megane Scenic.
This is how we repair air conditioners for Renault Megan Scenic.
Exhaust system repair for Renault. Exhaust system repair for Renault in St. Petersburg Repair and replacement of mufflers; Replacement.
All engines are overhead camshaft mounted transversely at the front of the vehicle.
Some models are equipped with a five-speed manual transmission, while others are equipped with a four-speed automatic transmission.
All models are front wheel drive. Front wheel suspension - independent, rear - semi-independent.
Interior trim is distinguished by high taste and variety. Advanced models are equipped with a single lock, power windows, a sunroof, anti-slip brakes (ABS) and air conditioning.
1.0 Renault Megane cars 1.2 Vehicle identification numbers 1.3 Purchase of spare parts 1.4 Service technology, tools and equipment of the workplace 1.5 Jacking and towing 1.6 Starting the engine from an auxiliary power source 1.7 Vehicle readiness checks 1.8 Automotive chemicals, oils and lubricants 1.9 Troubleshooting 1.10 Controls and Safe Operation Practices 1.11 Keys and remote control
2.0 Maintenance 2.1 Routine maintenance schedule 2.2 Checking fluid levels 2.3 Checking the condition and pressure of the tires 2.4 Checking the wiper blades 2.5 Checking the condition and charge of the battery 2.6 Checking lamps and fuses 2.7 Changing the engine oil and filter 2.8 Removing water from the diesel engine fuel filter 2.9 Checking the front brake pads and discs 2.10 Checking the exhaust system 2.11 Verification .
3.0 Engine repair 3.1. Repair of gasoline engines 1.4 l and 1.6 l in the engine compartment 3.2. Repair of gasoline engines 2.0 l in the engine compartment 3.3. Repair of a diesel engine in the engine compartment 3.4. Engine Removal and Overhaul Procedures .
4.0 Cooling, heating system 4.1 Disconnecting and replacing coolant hoses 4.2 Removal, inspection and installation of the radiator 4.3 Removal, check of serviceability and installation of the thermostat 4.4 Checking the serviceability, removing and installing the electric fan 4.5 Check of serviceability, removal and installation of sensors of the cooling system 4.6 Removing and installing the water pump 4.7 General description of the heater 4.8 Removal and installation of heater components (all models except Scenic) 4.9 Removal and installation
5.0 Power systems, exhaust 5.1. Fuel and exhaust system - petrol models 5.2. Fuel and exhaust systems - diesel models 5.3. Exhaust emission control systems .
6.0 Engine electrical equipment 6.1. Charge and launch systems 6.2. Ignition system - petrol models 6.3. Diesel engine preheating system .
7.0 Clutch 7.1 Removing and installing the clutch cable 7.2 Checking travel, removing and installing the clutch pedal 7.3 Removal, inspection and installation of the clutch basket 7.4 Removal, inspection and installation of the release bearing .
8.0 Transmission 8.1. Manual gearbox (RKPP) 8.2. automatic transmission .
9.0 Drive shafts 9.1 Removing and installing the drive shaft 9.2 Replacing the protective boot of the outer CV joint of the drive shaft (models with 9.3 Replacing the protective cover of the inner CV joint of the right drive shaft (models with manual transmission) 9.4 Replacing the protective boot of the inner CV joint of the left drive shaft 9.5 General description of the replacement of the drive shaft protective boot (models with automatic transmission) 9.6 General description of the drive shaft bulkhead .
10.0 Brake system 10.1 Bleeding the brake hydraulic system 10.2 Replacing brake pipes and hoses 10.3 Replacing the front brake pads 10.4 Replacing the rear brake pads 10.5 Inspection, removal and installation of the front brake disc 10.6 Removal, inspection and installation of rear brake drums 10.7 Removal, reassembly and installation of front brake calipers 10.8 Removing and installing the rear brake cylinder 10.9 Removal, .
11.0 Suspension and steering 11.1 Removing and installing the front steering knuckle assembly 11.2 Checking and replacing the front wheel bearings 11.3 Removing and installing the front pillar 11.4 Bulkhead A-pillar 11.5 Removing and installing the front anti-roll bar 11.6 Removal, reassembly and installation of the lower arm of the front suspension 11.7 Removal and installation of the ball joint of the lower arm of the front suspension 11.8 Checking and replacing the rear wheel bearings.
12.0 Body 12.1 Body and bottom maintenance 12.2 Caring for upholstery and carpets 12.3 Restoration of minor body damage 12.4 Significant body damage - restoration 12.5 Removing and installing the front bumper 12.6 Removing and installing the rear bumper 12.7 Removing, installing and adjusting the hood 12.8 Removing and installing the hood latch cable 12.9 Removing and installing the hood latch 12.10 Removing and installing the door 12.11 Removing and installing door trim panel 12.12.
13.0 Onboard electrical equipment 13.1 General description of troubleshooting in the electrical system 13.2 General description of fuses and relays 13.3 Removing and installing switches 13.4 Replacing lamps (exterior lighting fixtures) 13.5 Changing bulbs (interior lights) 13.6 Removing and installing external lamp units 13.7 General description of the adjustment of the direction of the optical axis of the headlights 13.8 Removing and installing the instrument panel 13.9 Removal and installation of instrument components.
14.0 Control body dimensions 14.1 Electrical diagrams 14.2 Starting and charging system, engine cooling fan, heater 14.3 Pilot lamps and instruments 14.4 External lighting 14.5 External and internal lighting 14.6 Headlight adjustment, horn, cigarette lighter, clock/display, 14.7 Wiper, heater blower and radio 14.8 Single lock, power windows and mirrors 14.9 Siemens-Fenix 3 central injection system 14.10 Half.
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