Renault Megane cars (Renault Megane) 1996-2002 - Manual for service, repair and operation
Coolant sensor repair - instructions (with photo) for repairing the coolant sensor
Repair and maintenance manual - On-line manual in Russian for Renault Megane, Scenic (since 1996)
Idling adjustment stepper motor - an article on restoring the operation of the XX adjustment stepper motor
VIDEO
FLUID LEVELS
Video (click to play).
Frequency of checking the coolant level
When topping up, use only coolant brands approved by RENAULT's technical departments and that provide:
Coolant replacement interval
All engines have an overhead camshaft and are mounted transversely at the front of the vehicle.
Some models are equipped with a five-speed manual transmission, the rest are equipped with a four-speed automatic transmission.
All models are front-wheel drive. The front wheel suspension is independent, the rear wheel suspension is semi-independent.
The interior decoration is distinguished by high taste and variety. Advanced models are equipped with a single lock, power windows, sunroof, traction control (ABS) and air conditioning.
Towards the end of 1996, Renault showed off the Megane Scenic, a single-box based on the Megane golf-class hatchback. He was one of the "revolutionaries" of this class - like crossovers and off-road vehicles, that is, they have their own customers who do not need a heavy frame, a complex all-terrain transmission and super-large ground clearance, but only a "jeepar" look, and off-road capabilities a little better, or at the level of Zhiguli (that is, excellent for a passenger car, but not for a jeep), so similar minibuses immediately found customers! That is, customers who, although morally not ready for the "bus" size, heavy handling and similar "special effects", but who dream of having a lot of space in the back of a golf hatchback class, both for luggage, and above their heads and around. The hero of our review is ready to meet just such needs. By the way, for some reason, they did not come up with a new name for them, after all, there is an "SUV" and "crossover" / "SUV" ?! This comparison with jeeps is not without reason, because Renault made a double blow - having released not only the "Scenic" mega-wagon, but also the RX4 - a crossover based on it.
All engines are inline four-cylinder, with eight or sixteen valves, developed 64-140 hp. Gasoline engines had a 1.4-liter volume (75 hp or 95: eight or sixteen valves), 1.6 liter (75 or 90 hp with eight or 107-110 with sixteen valves), 2-liter (114 hp . or 138-140: eight or sixteen valves). And the diesel was all 1.9-liter and eight-valve - naturally aspirated versions produced 64 and 65 forces, and turbocharged 80, 95-98, 100-105 hp. As we can see, a wide range for such a car, which is more typical of the Germans, especially taking into account the all-wheel drive version of the PX4 - only the hot version is missing!
The stage was restyled in 1999. He got a different dashboard, new design headlights, and the front of the body. Also, the production of the all-wheel drive version of the RX4 (with a viscous coupling as the center differential) began with the ground clearance increased to 210 mm. And new versions of gasoline engines - sixteen-valve engines: 1.4-16v delivering 95 hp, and 1.6-16v with 107-110 hp.
New engines appeared on Scenic in 2000: a new version of a 2.0-liter gasoline engine with a return of 140 hp. (for RX4) and turbodiesel 1.9 L, 80 HP (dTi index) and 102 hp. (index dO).
And finally, in 2003, Renault Scenic II replaced the well-deserved Scenic First.
It should be noted that despite its friendliness and spaciousness, "Scenic" still does not match the comfort of middle-class sedans in terms of its comfort, so for long-distance travel you can find a car that is both quieter and softer (although, as anyone, comfort is a relative concept) ... well and in urban conditions it is just at its best : what its excellent review is worth.
The demand for the "Scenic" of the first generation, especially the restyled versions, today exceeds the supply, and in this regard, they do not stay on the market for a long time. For example, in Moscow, ten-year copies will cost 200-250 thousand rubles. With operating costs, how will it turn out: they often strictly depend on the literacy of the previous owner.
As mentioned above, the Scenic was equipped with a whole "near-German" range of motors ranging from 1.4-liter base to top-end two-liter, and almost all of them are found on the "secondary". We practically do not have diesel versions, and for good reason, since their restoration and maintenance require special qualifications, and even in the West there were "misunderstandings" and complaints about the reliability of later engines with direct injection of diesel fuel, which improves the efficiency and efficiency of the engine.
Attempts to replace the timing belt with your own hands under garage conditions on sixteen-valve engines often end in failure. The fact is that in these motors, the drive gears of the shafts are fixed in the required position exclusively due to friction, and the clamp is achieved by tightening the bolts. The bolt should be loosened, then the gear on the shaft begins to turn. It is pointless to expose it "by eye", since there is a set of special tools and devices. However, of course, only in a specialized service. This is exactly where you should contact, since it will cost much less than a potential overhaul of the motor if the experiment fails. Well, it is easier for the owners of "one-rolls", because these motors have the most common keyed fit. Changing the roller together with the belt is not only desirable, but also mandatory, as well as for prevention purposes and the pump, since this part is not too durable.
Another well-known "garage" trick is blowing out the valves with a hammer. The fact is, it is rarely possible to strike a blow strictly along the axis, and even a slight displacement is enough to leave a trace of a crack on the rod - a risk. This risk and then can "guarantee" a frantic consumption of oil for waste, namely every 1000 km over 1.5 liters.
Our tar-rich gasoline is capable of turning a pig on. It is necessary to keep the valve bushings under control, because they will accumulate a lot of thick ointment, then one day when the motor is started, the valve will not sit in the saddle, which threatens that the thin rod will bend from the impact of the piston.And in order to prevent this, it is periodically useful, every 30-45 tons. Km, to clean the carbon deposits by "flushing the injector". It is not recommended to fill the tank with any cleaning compounds. A sign that "raised mud" has reached the motor is the interruptions of the first nozzle, the fact is that it gets the largest amount of mud.
Further, one should not get carried away with washing the motor under pressure, especially the K4M sample, where the coils of the device are interconnected in pairs. A short circuit occurs due to moisture, which destroys them.
All gasoline engines start well, even in cold weather. They have few reasons for refusals. Sometimes the contact in the pads of the crankshaft position and engine temperature sensors disappears (here it is enough to squeeze the contacts), sometimes (on F3R motors) the wires of the latter can break off, and by 100 tons km the fuel pump, which is not separable, can probably clog with dirt.
On the F3R engine, an unstable idle speed can sometimes be eliminated by lightly hitting the valve or idle speed regulator. However, such a valve will not last long, so it is worth preparing a replacement for it. On the 1.6-liter K7M, the plastic choke gradually wears out. If, when the accelerator is released, the engine speed begins to fall below the permissible, then it may be time to change the unit.
Now let's look at the suspension. She is not the “Scene's” weak point. Most often, stabilizer bushings wear out in the front suspension, which let you know by tapping the struts. These parts are inexpensive. And a knock in the rear suspension indicates that either the silent blocks are worn out, or the bearing inside the beam, where the torus passes, or shock absorbers - the latter here do not work in the most favorable position from the point of view of the load on this part - at an angle. Since bulkheading the rear suspension beam is an expensive operation, due to this, many drivers simply “reach” the suspension for years, because the torsion bars have enough safety and stiffness in order not to fall apart.
On Scenes, the clutch unit serves for a long time, up to 180 t. Km. The gearbox is also pleasing with its reliability, except for the problem of oil leakage through the shaft seal of the speed selection rod that arises over time. Although it is expensive to change seals using factory technology, it is reliable. As a "pre-sale option" - glue from pieces. Some owners can cut and then splice the stem with a coupling: here the result directly depends on the experience of the master.
Oil can also leave the box through the boot-seal of the left SHRUS - after 60-120 tons. Km. Changing it is an easy task. But the outer covers will have to be put on or changed in the drive assembly through the CV joint, which is an expensive pleasure. You need to take care of them and remember one truth: "Scenic", although it has quite easy handling, is not a rally car, even in the all-wheel drive version.
Consider a very interesting modification of the RX4. Although ErX4 looks very tempting, not only thanks to the impressive wheels and ground clearance, but also the plastic body kit, but behind the flashy name 4x4 is nothing more than a passenger car for outdoor activities, for which deep mud and serious ravines are contraindicated, as well as fast driving , with sharp accelerations and lane changes. In our conditions, the support bearing of the propeller shaft is enough for about 30,000 km, and the expensive shaft will have to be replaced as an assembly. In addition, when the stability control system stops working, for example, if the ABS sensor fails, there is a great risk of not coping with control under slippery road conditions! The fact is that due to the connection of the rear axle, the behavior of the car changes dramatically. And because of this, it is wiser to opt for the more common "passenger" mono-drive version.
The steering here is reliable, but what about knocking in this unit, it is usually a consequence of dirt and torn anthers. Moreover, as it happens, the left boot is damaged, but the right support knocks, which is more loaded, so you need to look both ways. If the power steering began to "sweat", then you should not rush to change the oil seal.For, most likely, the matter is both in the wear of the sleeve bearing and in the misalignment of the shaft. There is one way out - add liquid as it is consumed. And do not overtighten the belt, otherwise this will cause its early replacement. A few words about handling and dynamics. Scenic, of course, is still not Megan, on the bases of which it is made, in contrast to it, it rolls more when cornering, and the steering wheel does not react so instantly to the driver's actions. Although this is if we approach the assessment of handling from the point of view that when assessing the golf class. But adjusted for the origin and class of this car, it even has a very good reactive effect on the steering wheel and its "purity". And what about acceleration, thanks to the rally or cargo reception, although Scenic has a slightly reduced maximum speed on the track, but the acceleration is peppy. The fact is that there is a shortened row in the transmission, and when an unloaded or half-empty car, acceleration will please.
When choosing a car, you should take a closer look at the braking system: are the discs covered from the inside with brake shields? If not, then you will have to change the inner pads at each maintenance, and the discs may suffer from a sandblasting attack. To install the shields, you will also have to replace the steering knuckles with those with holes. Therefore, it will be easier to find the "right" car. And do not forget that, unlike the simple Scenic, disc brakes were found at the rear on the ErX4.
for the development of the channel Removal and bulkhead of the steering rack WITHOUT REMOVING THE SUBFRAME. Guys.
Renault Megane body disease, repair of the ear of the rear shock absorber and the amplifier in the boot floor with our own.
In this video, we are changing the rear beam bushings of Renault Megan 2. And we also change the front shock absorbers, supports.
In the video, I showed how easy it is with the help of an ordinary "multimeter" (tester) - to identify a malfunction in the email. chains.
Bushing SWAG 60 92 1039.
Repair of the rear of the car, after a collision with a post.
In the video, I showed how easy it is to replace the fuel filter on a Renault Megane with a gasoline engine. Vendor code.
Hello everyone! The ABS lamp, which caught fire a month ago, became annoying. How I was looking for the reason: the first thing I did was ring.
Replacement of thresholds, arches in Renault scenic. Other welding works. How to replace the threshold Renault Scenic. Renault Megan Scenic.
In the video, I showed the most common types of a non-working speedometer and diagnostic methods. If there is something extra.
We level, straighten the Renault Megane Scenic trunk door with our own hands. Body repair. Car body repair. Straightening by grandfathers.
Personal experience of repairing a Renault engine (K4M) when the timing belt breaks. Description of repair, replacement of valves, investigation.
Full video on repairing a jammed door handle renault megane 2.
Exhaust system repair on Renault. Repair of the exhaust system for Renault in St. Petersburg. Repair and replacement of mufflers; Replacement.
Repair of the ear, mounting the rear shock absorber and the boot floor at the junction with the inner fender liner. .Renault Megane Scenic.
1.4L AND 1.6L PETROL ENGINES
1.6 l models: With manual transmission With automatic transmission
K7M 702, K7M 720, K7M 790 or K7M 791 K7M 703
E7J engines K7M engines
E7J engines K7M engines
E7J engines K7M engines
1390 cm 3 1598 cm 3 Valve clearances (cold) E7J engines K7M engines Inlet valve 0.10 mm 0.10 - 0.15 mm Exhaust valve 0.25 mm 0.25 - 0.30 mm (after installing new valves 0.20 - 0.25 mm)
Engines E7J Engines K7M 702 and K7M 703 Engines K7M 720 9.0 or Engines K7M 790 and K7M 791
1-3-4-2 (# 1 cylinder flywheel / drive disk side)
Direction of rotation of the crankshaft
Clockwise as viewed from the pulley side
Lodger
Group: Users
Have you tried to start it again? I will cautiously assume that the phase regulator could crackle after a long stay. Did the service show you bent valves from your car? Did you attend when disassembling the cylinder head? I don't believe there are such problems with such mileage.
Megamage
