Renault Megane cars (Renault Megane) 1996-2002 - Manual for service, repair and operation
Coolant sensor repair - instructions (with photo) for repairing the coolant sensor
Repair and maintenance manual - On-line manual in Russian for Renault Megane, Scenic (since 1996)
Idling adjustment stepper motor - an article on restoring the operation of the XX adjustment stepper motor
VIDEO
FLUID LEVELS Coolant level The normal coolant level on a cold engine should be between the "MINI" and "MAXI" marks on the wall of the expansion tank. Add coolant when the engine is cold, not allowing the level to drop below the "MINI" mark. Do not check or service the cooling system while the engine is hot. This can cause burns.
Video (click to play).
Frequency of checking the coolant level Check the coolant level regularly (if there is no coolant, the engine may be damaged).
When topping up, use only coolant brands approved by RENAULT's technical departments and that provide: - protection against freezing; - anti-corrosion protection of the engine cooling system. If you notice a rapid or repeated drop in the coolant level, contact a RENAULT Dealer.
Coolant replacement interval Replacement intervals: See Service Book.
All engines have an overhead camshaft and are mounted transversely at the front of the vehicle.
Some models are equipped with a five-speed manual transmission, the rest are equipped with a four-speed automatic transmission.
All models are front-wheel drive. The front wheel suspension is independent, the rear wheel suspension is semi-independent.
The interior decoration is distinguished by high taste and variety. Advanced models are equipped with a single lock, power windows, sunroof, traction control (ABS) and air conditioning.
Towards the end of 1996, Renault showed off the Megane Scenic, a single-box based on the Megane golf-class hatchback. He was one of the "revolutionaries" of this class - like crossovers and off-road vehicles, that is, they have their own customers who do not need a heavy frame, a complex all-terrain transmission and super-large ground clearance, but only a "jeepar" look, and off-road capabilities a little better, or at the level of Zhiguli (that is, excellent for a passenger car, but not for a jeep), so similar minibuses immediately found customers! That is, customers who, although morally not ready for the "bus" size, heavy handling and similar "special effects", but who dream of having a lot of space in the back of a golf hatchback class, both for luggage, and above their heads and around. The hero of our review is ready to meet just such needs. By the way, for some reason, they did not come up with a new name for them, after all, there is an "SUV" and "crossover" / "SUV" ?! This comparison with jeeps is not without reason, because Renault made a double blow - having released not only the "Scenic" mega-wagon, but also the RX4 - a crossover based on it.
All engines are inline four-cylinder, with eight or sixteen valves, developed 64-140 hp. Gasoline engines had a 1.4-liter volume (75 hp or 95: eight or sixteen valves), 1.6 liter (75 or 90 hp with eight or 107-110 with sixteen valves), 2-liter (114 hp . or 138-140: eight or sixteen valves). And the diesel was all 1.9-liter and eight-valve - naturally aspirated versions produced 64 and 65 forces, and turbocharged 80, 95-98, 100-105 hp. As we can see, a wide range for such a car, which is more typical of the Germans, especially taking into account the all-wheel drive version of the PX4 - only the hot version is missing!
The stage was restyled in 1999. He got a different dashboard, new design headlights, and the front of the body. Also, the production of the all-wheel drive version of the RX4 (with a viscous coupling as the center differential) began with the ground clearance increased to 210 mm. And new versions of gasoline engines - sixteen-valve engines: 1.4-16v delivering 95 hp, and 1.6-16v with 107-110 hp.
New engines appeared on Scenic in 2000: a new version of a 2.0-liter gasoline engine with a return of 140 hp. (for RX4) and turbodiesel 1.9 L, 80 HP (dTi index) and 102 hp. (index dO).
And finally, in 2003, Renault Scenic II replaced the well-deserved Scenic First.
It should be noted that despite its friendliness and spaciousness, "Scenic" still does not match the comfort of middle-class sedans in terms of its comfort, so for long-distance travel you can find a car that is both quieter and softer (although, as anyone, comfort is a relative concept) ... well and in urban conditions it is just at its best : what its excellent review is worth.
The demand for the "Scenic" of the first generation, especially the restyled versions, today exceeds the supply, and in this regard, they do not stay on the market for a long time. For example, in Moscow, ten-year copies will cost 200-250 thousand rubles. With operating costs, how will it turn out: they often strictly depend on the literacy of the previous owner.
As mentioned above, the Scenic was equipped with a whole "near-German" range of motors ranging from 1.4-liter base to top-end two-liter, and almost all of them are found on the "secondary". We practically do not have diesel versions, and for good reason, since their restoration and maintenance require special qualifications, and even in the West there were "misunderstandings" and complaints about the reliability of later engines with direct injection of diesel fuel, which improves the efficiency and efficiency of the engine.
Attempts to replace the timing belt with your own hands under garage conditions on sixteen-valve engines often end in failure. The fact is that in these motors, the drive gears of the shafts are fixed in the required position exclusively due to friction, and the clamp is achieved by tightening the bolts. The bolt should be loosened, then the gear on the shaft begins to turn. It is pointless to expose it "by eye", since there is a set of special tools and devices. However, of course, only in a specialized service. This is exactly where you should contact, since it will cost much less than a potential overhaul of the motor if the experiment fails. Well, it is easier for the owners of "one-rolls", because these motors have the most common keyed fit. Changing the roller together with the belt is not only desirable, but also mandatory, as well as for prevention purposes and the pump, since this part is not too durable.
Another well-known "garage" trick is blowing out the valves with a hammer. The fact is, it is rarely possible to strike a blow strictly along the axis, and even a slight displacement is enough to leave a trace of a crack on the rod - a risk. This risk and then can "guarantee" a frantic consumption of oil for waste, namely every 1000 km over 1.5 liters.
Our tar-rich gasoline is capable of turning a pig on. It is necessary to keep the valve bushings under control, because they will accumulate a lot of thick ointment, then one day when the motor is started, the valve will not sit in the saddle, which threatens that the thin rod will bend from the impact of the piston.And in order to prevent this, it is periodically useful, every 30-45 tons. Km, to clean the carbon deposits by "flushing the injector". It is not recommended to fill the tank with any cleaning compounds. A sign that "raised mud" has reached the motor is the interruptions of the first nozzle, the fact is that it gets the largest amount of mud.
Further, one should not get carried away with washing the motor under pressure, especially the K4M sample, where the coils of the device are interconnected in pairs. A short circuit occurs due to moisture, which destroys them.
All gasoline engines start well, even in cold weather. They have few reasons for refusals. Sometimes the contact in the pads of the crankshaft position and engine temperature sensors disappears (here it is enough to squeeze the contacts), sometimes (on F3R motors) the wires of the latter can break off, and by 100 tons km the fuel pump, which is not separable, can probably clog with dirt.
On the F3R engine, an unstable idle speed can sometimes be eliminated by lightly hitting the valve or idle speed regulator. However, such a valve will not last long, so it is worth preparing a replacement for it. On the 1.6-liter K7M, the plastic choke gradually wears out. If, when the accelerator is released, the engine speed begins to fall below the permissible, then it may be time to change the unit.
Now let's look at the suspension. She is not the “Scene's” weak point. Most often, stabilizer bushings wear out in the front suspension, which let you know by tapping the struts. These parts are inexpensive. And a knock in the rear suspension indicates that either the silent blocks are worn out, or the bearing inside the beam, where the torus passes, or shock absorbers - the latter here do not work in the most favorable position from the point of view of the load on this part - at an angle. Since bulkheading the rear suspension beam is an expensive operation, due to this, many drivers simply “reach” the suspension for years, because the torsion bars have enough safety and stiffness in order not to fall apart.
On Scenes, the clutch unit serves for a long time, up to 180 t. Km. The gearbox is also pleasing with its reliability, except for the problem of oil leakage through the shaft seal of the speed selection rod that arises over time. Although it is expensive to change seals using factory technology, it is reliable. As a "pre-sale option" - glue from pieces. Some owners can cut and then splice the stem with a coupling: here the result directly depends on the experience of the master.
Oil can also leave the box through the boot-seal of the left SHRUS - after 60-120 tons. Km. Changing it is an easy task. But the outer covers will have to be put on or changed in the drive assembly through the CV joint, which is an expensive pleasure. You need to take care of them and remember one truth: "Scenic", although it has quite easy handling, is not a rally car, even in the all-wheel drive version.
Consider a very interesting modification of the RX4. Although ErX4 looks very tempting, not only thanks to the impressive wheels and ground clearance, but also the plastic body kit, but behind the flashy name 4x4 is nothing more than a passenger car for outdoor activities, for which deep mud and serious ravines are contraindicated, as well as fast driving , with sharp accelerations and lane changes. In our conditions, the support bearing of the propeller shaft is enough for about 30,000 km, and the expensive shaft will have to be replaced as an assembly. In addition, when the stability control system stops working, for example, if the ABS sensor fails, there is a great risk of not coping with control under slippery road conditions! The fact is that due to the connection of the rear axle, the behavior of the car changes dramatically. And because of this, it is wiser to opt for the more common "passenger" mono-drive version.
The steering here is reliable, but what about knocking in this unit, it is usually a consequence of dirt and torn anthers. Moreover, as it happens, the left boot is damaged, but the right support knocks, which is more loaded, so you need to look both ways. If the power steering began to "sweat", then you should not rush to change the oil seal.For, most likely, the matter is both in the wear of the sleeve bearing and in the misalignment of the shaft. There is one way out - add liquid as it is consumed. And do not overtighten the belt, otherwise this will cause its early replacement. A few words about handling and dynamics. Scenic, of course, is still not Megan, on the bases of which it is made, in contrast to it, it rolls more when cornering, and the steering wheel does not react so instantly to the driver's actions. Although this is if we approach the assessment of handling from the point of view that when assessing the golf class. But adjusted for the origin and class of this car, it even has a very good reactive effect on the steering wheel and its "purity". And what about acceleration, thanks to the rally or cargo reception, although Scenic has a slightly reduced maximum speed on the track, but the acceleration is peppy. The fact is that there is a shortened row in the transmission, and when an unloaded or half-empty car, acceleration will please.
When choosing a car, you should take a closer look at the braking system: are the discs covered from the inside with brake shields? If not, then you will have to change the inner pads at each maintenance, and the discs may suffer from a sandblasting attack. To install the shields, you will also have to replace the steering knuckles with those with holes. Therefore, it will be easier to find the "right" car. And do not forget that, unlike the simple Scenic, disc brakes were found at the rear on the ErX4.
for the development of the channel Removal and bulkhead of the steering rack WITHOUT REMOVING THE SUBFRAME. Guys.
Renault Megane body disease, repair of the ear of the rear shock absorber and the amplifier in the boot floor with our own.
In this video, we are changing the rear beam bushings of Renault Megan 2. And we also change the front shock absorbers, supports.
In the video, I showed how easy it is with the help of an ordinary "multimeter" (tester) - to identify a malfunction in the email. chains.
Bushing SWAG 60 92 1039.
Repair of the rear of the car, after a collision with a post.
In the video, I showed how easy it is to replace the fuel filter on a Renault Megane with a gasoline engine. Vendor code.
Hello everyone! The ABS lamp, which caught fire a month ago, became annoying. How I was looking for the reason: the first thing I did was ring.
Replacement of thresholds, arches in Renault scenic. Other welding works. How to replace the threshold Renault Scenic. Renault Megan Scenic.
In the video, I showed the most common types of a non-working speedometer and diagnostic methods. If there is something extra.
We level, straighten the Renault Megane Scenic trunk door with our own hands. Body repair. Car body repair. Straightening by grandfathers.
Personal experience of repairing a Renault engine (K4M) when the timing belt breaks. Description of repair, replacement of valves, investigation.
Full video on repairing a jammed door handle renault megane 2.
Exhaust system repair on Renault. Repair of the exhaust system for Renault in St. Petersburg. Repair and replacement of mufflers; Replacement.
Repair of the ear, mounting the rear shock absorber and the boot floor at the junction with the inner fender liner. .Renault Megane Scenic.
1.4L AND 1.6L PETROL ENGINES
1.6 l models: With manual transmission With automatic transmission
K7M 702, K7M 720, K7M 790 or K7M 791 K7M 703
E7J engines K7M engines
E7J engines K7M engines
E7J engines K7M engines
1390 cm 3 1598 cm 3 Valve clearances (cold) E7J engines K7M engines Inlet valve 0.10 mm 0.10 - 0.15 mm Exhaust valve 0.25 mm 0.25 - 0.30 mm (after installing new valves 0.20 - 0.25 mm)
Engines E7J Engines K7M 702 and K7M 703 Engines K7M 720 9.0 or Engines K7M 790 and K7M 791
1-3-4-2 (# 1 cylinder flywheel / drive disk side)
Direction of rotation of the crankshaft
Clockwise as viewed from the pulley side
Lodger
Group: Users Posts: 390 Registration: 11.2.2010 From: Yekaterinburg User #: 17187
Have you tried to start it again? I will cautiously assume that the phase regulator could crackle after a long stay. Did the service show you bent valves from your car? Did you attend when disassembling the cylinder head? I don't believe there are such problems with such mileage.
Megamage
Group: Active user Messages: 3292 Registration: 10.4.2008 From: Saint Petersburg User #: 6649
Phazik is not present on the first meganes. Most likely, the belt was simply not placed according to the marks or was overtightened, there is no other option, I have 155 and nothing like that, the engine runs smoothly and quietly, it is not audible in principle. And what kind of sound is it? Crackle, knock, or what? If there is a crackling, then the timing is not on the marks, knocking - the hydrokampenstors are knocking. the reasons for the mass can be.
Included in the topic
Group: Active user Posts: 55 Registration: 10/17/2010 User #: 21412
Megamage
Group: Active user Messages: 3291 Registration: 24.9.2010 From: Saint Petersburg User #: 20986
Megamage
Group: Active user Messages: 3291 Registration: 24.9.2010 From: Saint Petersburg User #: 20986
Megamage
Group: Users Posts: 1849 Registration: 3.7.2010 From: Tver User #: 19563
Lodger
Group: Users Posts: 330 Registration: 23.8.2009 From: Noginsk, MO User #: 14446
16kl-normal hardy engines, but, I agree, not for self-repair.
Megamage
Group: Users Posts: 1849 Registration: 3.7.2010 From: Tver User #: 19563
16kl-normal hardy engines, but, I agree, not for self-repair.
[/ quote] here I’m talking about too, but how the eyes are afraid to grit the hands are doing probably having this, I would have figured it out. from a friend 1.6 16 cl. 290k run. so far, it works quietly and the oil does not hawk .. so you still have a lot of time ahead. but what about 75tykov like our theme creator, there is always a black sheep (I'm not talking about a person, but about a hemorrhage with a car)
Why will they immediately pull it over? maybe they didn't reach him at all
Megamage
Group: Active user Posts: 2388 Registration: 23.5.2006 From: Moscow User #: 817
CS | MEGANE TEAM
Group: Moderators Messages: 11107 Registration: 15.11.2007 From: Az: Oz: Ez: Oz: Yz: User #: 4885
The run is clearly twisted (the third owner is 75 thousand, this is a FAIRY TALE). in fact, he probably drove under 200 thousand.
Well, the belts were changed, most likely not at normal Renault servicemen (there are no tags on our motors, and only specially trained people should change them!).
Megamage
Group: Users Posts: 1849 Registration: 3.7.2010 From: Tver User #: 19563
The run is clearly twisted (the third owner is 75 thousand, this is a FAIRY TALE). in fact, he probably drove under 200 thousand.
Well, the belts were changed, most likely not at normal Renault servicemen (there are no tags on our motors, and only specially trained people should change them!).
Sometimes there are such tales. The most surprising thing is that you can't ask anyone (who bought a car not long ago), everyone's mileage is native, nowhere broken, etc. when selling my own, too, I will bring a marafet and twist a speedik. and I will say that there was uhahahahah in the garage. fortunately there is a garage
especially since after the pelvis it is generally hard to say something bad about foreign cars, but if you drive for 3 years at least, knocks and crickets will be heard right away ... and something the door slams hard, and nifiga does not go, and it shakes hard, and you can compare it to a person then I’m not really with anything. As I understood the first foreign car. and immediately such a jamb
All engines have an overhead camshaft and are mounted transversely at the front of the vehicle.
Some models are equipped with a five-speed manual transmission, the rest are equipped with a four-speed automatic transmission.
All models are front-wheel drive. The front wheel suspension is independent, the rear wheel suspension is semi-independent.
The interior decoration is distinguished by high taste and variety. Advanced models are equipped with a single lock, power windows, sunroof, traction control (ABS) and air conditioning.
1.0 Renault Megane cars 1.2 Vehicle identification numbers 1.3 Purchasing spare parts 1.4 Service technology, tools and equipment of the workplace 1.5 Jacking and towing 1.6 Starting the engine with an auxiliary power source 1.7 Checks that the vehicle is ready for operation 1.8 Automotive chemicals, oils and lubricants 1.9 Troubleshooting 1.10 Controls and receptions of safe operation 1.11 Keys and Remote Control
2.0 Maintenance 2.1 Routine Maintenance Schedule 2.2 Checking fluid levels 2.3 Checking the condition and pressure in tires 2.4 Checking the wiper blades 2.5 Checking the condition and state of charge of the battery 2.6 Checking lamps and fuses 2.7 Replacing impellent oil and filter 2.8 Removing Water from Diesel Fuel Filter 2.9 Checking the front brake pads and discs 2.10 Checking the exhaust system 2.11 Verification.
3.0 Engine repair 3.1. Repair of 1.4 l and 1.6 l petrol engines in the engine compartment 3.2. Repair of gasoline engines 2.0 l in the engine compartment 3.3. Repair of a diesel engine in the engine compartment 3.4. Engine Removal and Overhaul Procedures .
4.0 Cooling, heating system 4.1 Disconnecting and replacing coolant hoses 4.2 Removal, inspection and installation of the radiator 4.3 Removal, serviceability check and installation of the thermostat 4.4 Serviceability check, removal and installation of the electric fan 4.5 Serviceability check, removal and installation of cooling system sensors 4.6 Removal and installation of the water pump 4.7 General description of the heater 4.8 Removal and installation of heater components (all models except Scenic) 4.9 Removal and installation of K.
5.0 Power supply systems, release 5.1. Fuel and Exhaust System - Petrol Models 5.2. Fuel and Exhaust Systems - Diesel Models 5.3. Exhaust gas emission control systems .
6.0 Engine electrical equipment 6.1. Charging and starting systems 6.2. Ignition system - petrol models 6.3. Diesel preheat system .
7.0 Clutch 7.1 Removing and installing the clutch cable 7.2 Checking the stroke, removing and installing the clutch pedal 7.3 Removal, inspection and installation of the clutch basket 7.4 Removal, inspection and installation of the release bearing .
8.0 Transmission 8.1. Manual gearbox (RKPP) 8.2. Automatic transmission .
9.0 Drive shafts 9.1 Removing and installing drive shaft 9.2 Replacing the protective cover of the outer CV joint of the drive shaft (models with 9.3 Replacing the protective cover of the inner CV joint of the right drive shaft (models with manual transmission) 9.4 Replacing the protective cover of the inner CV joint of the left drive shaft 9.5 General description of replacing the protective cover of the drive shaft (models with automatic transmission) 9.6 General description of the drive shaft overhaul .
10.0 Braking system 10.1 Bleeding the brake hydraulic system 10.2 Replacing brake pipes and hoses 10.3 Replacing the front brake pads 10.4 Replacing the rear brake pads 10.5 Inspection, removal and installation of the front brake disc 10.6 Removal, inspection and installation of rear brake drums 10.7 Removal, bulkhead and installation of front brake calipers 10.8 Removal and installation of the rear brake cylinder 10.9 Withdrawal,.
11.0 Suspension and steering 11.1 Removal and installation of the front steering knuckle assembly 11.2 Checking and replacing the front wheel hub bearings 11.3 Removing and installing the front pillar 11.4 Bulkhead A-pillar 11.5 Removing and installing front anti-roll bar 11.6 Removal, bulkhead and installation of the lower arm of the front suspension 11.7 Removal and installation of the ball joint of the lower arm of the front suspension 11.8 Checking and replacing the rear hub bearings.
12.0 Body 12.1 Body and Underbody Service 12.2 Maintenance of upholstery and rugs 12.3 Repairing minor damage to the body 12.4 Significant damage to bodywork - refurbishment 12.5 Removing and installing front bumper 12.6 Removing and installing rear bumper 12.7 Removal, installation and adjustment of the hood 12.8 Removal and installation of the hood lock cable 12.9 Removing and installing the bonnet lock 12.10 Removing and installing the door 12.11 Removal and installation of the door trim panel 12.12.
13.0 On-board electrical equipment 13.1 General description of electrical troubleshooting 13.2 General description of fuses and relays 13.3 Removal and installation of switches 13.4 Replacing lamps (external lights) 13.5 Replacing bulbs (interior lights) 13.6 Removal and installation of external light units 13.7 General description of adjusting the direction of the optical axis of the headlights 13.8 Removal and installation of the dashboard 13.9 Removal and installation of instrument components.
14.0 Control body dimensions 14.1 Wiring diagrams 14.2 Starting and charging system, engine cooling fan, heater 14.3 Indicator lamps and devices 14.4 External lighting 14.5 Exterior and interior lighting 14.6 Headlight adjustment, horn, cigarette lighter, clock / display, 14.7 Windscreen wiper, heater and radio blower 14.8 Single lock, power windows and mirrors 14.9 Siemens central fuel injection system - Fenix 3 14.10 Semi.
Good day to all!
I don't remember when I got Megan's repair book - in such a greenish color of the publishing house, either Haynes or something similar (not at hand). So there an interesting idea is suggested by the author - he determined the degree of complexity of Megan's repair work. And how does it feel when the replacement of brake pads there belongs to the category of "simple" and can be done by the owner on their own (I will pretend that I have never done this). But infa for thought - looked at the Renault service program. And there - in the region of 5-6 thousand, replacement of only one side (in the sense of either the front or rear pads). So if they insist on a replacement, I will ask for official recommendations - in the sense of a piece of paper (it is native) and with the dealer's stamp - as well as the parameters of the part (in the sense of a shoe) for replacement. But the main thing is not this - I'm interested in who thinks what is possible and what is not - to repair INDEPENDENTLY (including remove-put-replace) on Megan. Thank you all in advance.
So the official service prepares a piece of paper, even two. Called: "certificate of control" and "receipt for alongside-order." There they will write to you what your heart desires and by doing so they will absolve themselves of any responsibility. “We wrote to you, but you didn’t!”. They once wrote to me - it is recommended to replace the steering rack. Take out and put in 25 thousand rubles. Found a fool! Passed technical inspection without their recommendations. Regarding the replacement of pads. The cost of the so-called "original" pads is 4.5 thousand per pair. Replacement work seems to be 800 rubles. So it turns out 5.3 thousand rubles. So, the work itself is not that expensive and (for someone). In this matter, the main principle is: what kind of man are you, if you can't even change the pads yourself ?! And on your last question, my opinion is: no need to ask stupid questions. Someone "not in scrap" and the engine itself to sort out, but someone and the low beam bulb himself cannot change (or does not want to). So what.
Thank you. But, with your permission, I will correct you: 1. the official service - aka the dealer - does not put a seal on the control certificate, and the dimensions of the parts are not indicated in the receipt in any way. (I made a reservation for a reason). 2. The fact that you went through "without their recommendations" inspection is already "hot", here it is more interesting to know, did you do it yourself (in the sense of a man)? 3. Pads - skip. 4. You need to ask any questions - the truth of life is more precious. And about the "stupid": remember your questions to your wife (before she became one)
Hey! The fact that the dealer does not put a seal is your problem, because the seal of the organization is provided in the certificate form. You need to demand. The question is different: as I said, they can write whatever their heart desires. But how are you going to prove later (and where?) That they are cheating you, demanding that you replace parts prematurely? In my opinion, in our country it is best to understand the car yourself and make your own decisions. And this is especially true for female drivers. They are the most “favorite” clients on the service. On technical inspection - nothing interesting. What are they called at the service station - the masters? Said: You have play in the steering rack. I asked him: How did you measure it? With your finger? (which, by the way, was the case. He put his finger to the wheel and asked to turn the steering wheel).Had: I don't know anything, go to the traffic police inspector. Okay, it's not difficult for me. I found the traffic police inspector - the captain. Invited. We went to the car. We talked again. This time everything turned out to be fine. A real man has two beloved wives: legal at home and a car in the garage
The control certificate is a dummy, which is pampered by “children” -drivers. They are hung or glued wherever they want (they “molded” it on the back of the hood and on the rear-view mirror). In general, advertising and nothing more. When you understand a car, I agree that it is good, and probably not only in our country. But to repair - on their own - you can only not very complex nodes and details - pads, lighting, for example. And about specific measurements - really at the dealer (and at the service station) they do everything by sight. Because it so happened that the CONVERSION-DISTRIBUTION and GEOMETRY OF THE BODY are considered serious. Well, as a last resort, the internal combustion engine can also be called a serious issue. Although, as you said, his identity can be sorted out almost in every yard. Therefore, I wonder what else you can sort out yourself from the simple.
for the development of the channel Removal and bulkhead of the steering rack WITHOUT REMOVING THE SUBFRAME. Guys.
Renault Megane body disease, repair of the ear of the rear shock absorber and the amplifier in the boot floor with our own.
Repair of the rear of the car, after a collision with a post.
Bushing SWAG 60 92 1039.
In the video, I showed how easy it is with the help of an ordinary "multimeter" (tester) - to identify a malfunction in the email. chains.
We level, straighten the Renault Megane Scenic trunk door with our own hands. Body repair. Car body repair. Straightening by grandfathers.
In this video, we are changing the rear beam bushings of Renault Megan 2. And we also change the front shock absorbers, supports.
Hello everyone! The ABS lamp, which caught fire a month ago, became annoying. How I was looking for the reason: the first thing I did was ring.
In the video, I showed the most common types of a non-working speedometer and diagnostic methods. If there is something extra.
Full video on repairing a jammed door handle renault megane 2.
Replacement of thresholds, arches in Renault scenic. Other welding works. How to replace the threshold Renault Scenic. Renault Megan Scenic.
Personal experience of repairing a Renault engine (K4M) when the timing belt breaks. Description of repair, replacement of valves, investigation.
The song "Easy Jam" belongs to the artist Kevin MacLeod. License: Creative Commons Attribution (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/).
Repair of the ear, mounting the rear shock absorber and the boot floor at the junction with the inner fender liner. .Renault Megane Scenic.
This is how we repair air conditioners at Renault Megan Scenic.
Exhaust system repair on Renault. Repair of the exhaust system for Renault in St. Petersburg. Repair and replacement of mufflers; Replacement.
All engines have an overhead camshaft and are mounted transversely at the front of the vehicle.
Some models are equipped with a five-speed manual transmission, the rest are equipped with a four-speed automatic transmission.
All models are front-wheel drive. The front wheel suspension is independent, the rear wheel suspension is semi-independent.
The interior decoration is distinguished by high taste and variety. Advanced models are equipped with a single lock, power windows, sunroof, traction control (ABS) and air conditioning.
1.0 Renault Megane cars 1.2 Vehicle identification numbers 1.3 Purchasing spare parts 1.4 Service technology, tools and equipment of the workplace 1.5 Jacking and towing 1.6 Starting the engine with an auxiliary power source 1.7 Checks that the vehicle is ready for operation 1.8 Automotive chemicals, oils and lubricants 1.9 Troubleshooting 1.10 Controls and receptions of safe operation 1.11 Keys and Remote Control
2.0 Maintenance 2.1 Routine Maintenance Schedule 2.2 Checking fluid levels 2.3 Checking the condition and pressure in tires 2.4 Checking the wiper blades 2.5 Checking the condition and state of charge of the battery 2.6 Checking lamps and fuses 2.7 Replacing impellent oil and filter 2.8 Removing Water from Diesel Fuel Filter 2.9 Checking the front brake pads and discs 2.10 Checking the exhaust system 2.11 Verification.
3.0 Engine repair 3.1. Repair of 1.4 l and 1.6 l petrol engines in the engine compartment 3.2. Repair of gasoline engines 2.0 l in the engine compartment 3.3. Repair of a diesel engine in the engine compartment 3.4. Engine Removal and Overhaul Procedures .
4.0 Cooling, heating system 4.1 Disconnecting and replacing coolant hoses 4.2 Removal, inspection and installation of the radiator 4.3 Removal, serviceability check and installation of the thermostat 4.4 Serviceability check, removal and installation of the electric fan 4.5 Serviceability check, removal and installation of cooling system sensors 4.6 Removal and installation of the water pump 4.7 General description of the heater 4.8 Removal and installation of heater components (all models except Scenic) 4.9 Removal and installation of K.
5.0 Power supply systems, release 5.1. Fuel and Exhaust System - Petrol Models 5.2. Fuel and Exhaust Systems - Diesel Models 5.3. Exhaust gas emission control systems .
6.0 Engine electrical equipment 6.1. Charging and starting systems 6.2. Ignition system - petrol models 6.3. Diesel preheat system .
7.0 Clutch 7.1 Removing and installing the clutch cable 7.2 Checking the stroke, removing and installing the clutch pedal 7.3 Removal, inspection and installation of the clutch basket 7.4 Removal, inspection and installation of the release bearing .
8.0 Transmission 8.1. Manual gearbox (RKPP) 8.2. Automatic transmission .
9.0 Drive shafts 9.1 Removing and installing drive shaft 9.2 Replacing the protective cover of the outer CV joint of the drive shaft (models with 9.3 Replacing the protective cover of the inner CV joint of the right drive shaft (models with manual transmission) 9.4 Replacing the protective cover of the inner CV joint of the left drive shaft 9.5 General description of replacing the protective cover of the drive shaft (models with automatic transmission) 9.6 General description of the drive shaft overhaul .
10.0 Braking system 10.1 Bleeding the brake hydraulic system 10.2 Replacing brake pipes and hoses 10.3 Replacing the front brake pads 10.4 Replacing the rear brake pads 10.5 Inspection, removal and installation of the front brake disc 10.6 Removal, inspection and installation of rear brake drums 10.7 Removal, bulkhead and installation of front brake calipers 10.8 Removal and installation of the rear brake cylinder 10.9 Withdrawal,.
11.0 Suspension and steering 11.1 Removal and installation of the front steering knuckle assembly 11.2 Checking and replacing the front wheel hub bearings 11.3 Removing and installing the front pillar 11.4 Bulkhead A-pillar 11.5 Removing and installing front anti-roll bar 11.6 Removal, bulkhead and installation of the lower arm of the front suspension 11.7 Removal and installation of the ball joint of the lower arm of the front suspension 11.8 Checking and replacing the rear hub bearings.
12.0 Body 12.1 Body and Underbody Service 12.2 Maintenance of upholstery and rugs 12.3 Repairing minor damage to the body 12.4 Significant damage to bodywork - refurbishment 12.5 Removing and installing front bumper 12.6 Removing and installing rear bumper 12.7 Removal, installation and adjustment of the hood 12.8 Removal and installation of the hood lock cable 12.9 Removing and installing the bonnet lock 12.10 Removing and installing the door 12.11 Removal and installation of the door trim panel 12.12.
13.0 On-board electrical equipment 13.1 General description of electrical troubleshooting 13.2 General description of fuses and relays 13.3 Removal and installation of switches 13.4 Replacing lamps (external lights) 13.5 Replacing bulbs (interior lights) 13.6 Removal and installation of external light units 13.7 General description of adjusting the direction of the optical axis of the headlights 13.8 Removal and installation of the dashboard 13.9 Removal and installation of instrument components.
14.0 Control body dimensions 14.1 Wiring diagrams 14.2 Starting and charging system, engine cooling fan, heater 14.3 Indicator lamps and devices 14.4 External lighting 14.5 Exterior and interior lighting 14.6 Headlight adjustment, horn, cigarette lighter, clock / display, 14.7 Windscreen wiper, heater and radio blower 14.8 Single lock, power windows and mirrors 14.9 Siemens central fuel injection system - Fenix 3 14.10 Semi.
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