Do-it-yourself spring repair

Springs, like all other parts, are an important element of the car's structure, which must be monitored and prevented in time for any malfunctions. Without them, driving would not be relatively smooth, especially on our roads. No need to think that the details of your car are not killed. Each of them requires a certain attention and prevention in order to avoid rapid wear, the necessary repair of the springs must be carried out on time.

Springs must be periodically disassembled and cleaned from rust and dirt.

The necessary inspection and repair can always be done in the workshop, but it is not too difficult to do it yourself. If, for example, there is a drawdown, then you can install another root plate with bumpers of the lower front suspension arm, for this it is enough to unscrew the nuts of the central bolt and stepladders.

Every 10,000 km it is recommended to remove the springs to clean them of dirt, rust and for deep lubrication (first they are washed in kerosene, then a mixture of graphite grease and grease is applied), it is also recommended to regularly lubricate the sheets and tighten the ladders. To prevent rust, before installing the suspension element back, it should be painted.

To extend the life of the part under heavy loads on the car, protect the springs by wrapping them with resin-impregnated twine and putting on a canvas cover filled with grease.

Most often, front suspension elements fail because they are more loaded due to uneven road surfaces. Sheets or spring pins can break, there is a drawdown, breakage of stepladder bolts. If the spring bursts, it must be replaced, if it is bent, then the car body deviates to one side, which should not be allowed, the deformation is eliminated by editing according to the template. To know how to repair a spring, you first need to inspect it, which will give you an idea of ​​which part has failed.

Maintenance and repair of suspension springs for wagon cars of the UAZ-452 family consists in periodically checking their condition and eliminating the identified malfunctions. When servicing, check the tightening of the spring ladders, the bolts for fastening the bracket covers, the riveted fastening of the brackets to the frame side members, as well as the condition of the springs themselves.

Springs should be systematically cleaned of dirt. When inspecting them, it is necessary to pay attention to the longitudinal displacement of the sheets, which may indicate the shearing of the center bolt and the appearance of cracks in the sheets. Broken sheets must be replaced by removing and disassembling the spring. Settled springs with whole sheets can be restored by straightening (editing).

The deflection arrow (curvature) of the sheets is checked with a template. With a slight decrease in the deflection, the sheets are corrected in a cold state by hammer blows on the inner surface of the sheet. Strong blows begin to be applied from the middle of the sheet, moving towards the ends. As you approach the ends, the blows should be weaker.

The cups of the main sheets of the springs, which are not suitable for further operation, are replaced with new ones. On the UAZ-452 springs, the cups are riveted with an 8x16 rivet with a countersunk head. Care must be taken that the countersunk head of the rivet does not protrude above the surface of the sheet. Clean it up if necessary.

As needed, but at least once a year, or if the springs have been repaired, they should be lubricated. Lubrication prevents corrosion of the sheets, which is one of the main causes of breakage of the springs, increases the softness of the suspension and eliminates friction between the sheets.For lubrication, it is necessary to remove the spring from the car, disassemble it, rinse it in kerosene, dry it with compressed air and thoroughly lubricate each sheet with graphite grease or a mixture consisting of 30% USs (solidol) oil, 30% graphite P and 40% transformer oil.

If it is not possible to remove the springs from the vehicle, then for lubrication it is necessary to jack up the front or rear end of the frame so that the wheels do not touch the surface. Then, wringing out the ends of the sheets of springs with a screwdriver, lay grease in them.

It is necessary to periodically check the condition of the rubber pads of the springs in the brackets. To do this, with a loaded car, unscrew the bolts securing the bracket covers, remove the covers and inspect the rubber cushions. The upper rubber pads usually wear out the side protrusions, which are notched by the sides of the cups. These pillows can not be changed. Do not require replacement of pillows, in which the jumper is cut at the junction with the upper part of the pillow.

If significant wear or destruction of the spring pads is detected, they must be replaced with new ones. It is especially necessary to monitor the condition of the front spring cushions, since significant wear on the bearing surface of the cushions causes wobbling of the wheels and impairs vehicle handling.

Install the covers of the spring brackets and tighten the bolts with the spring straightened, otherwise the pillows may take the wrong position and quickly fail. To straighten the spring, you can use a special tool.

Untimely replacement of worn rubber pads also causes the destruction of the spring brackets attached to the frame. Loose spring bracket rivets must be replaced with new larger diameter rivets or bolts.

To repair the springs, it is necessary to remove them from the car and disassemble them. To remove the spring, place the car on a viewing hole and perform the following operations:

- place the front or rear of the car on stands, crush the wheel, disconnect and pull up the shock absorber lever,
- jack up the front or rear axle,
- unscrew the fastening nuts and remove the ladders,
- unscrew the bolts securing the covers of the housings of the support of the front and rear ends of the spring and remove the covers,
- Remove the spring along with the rubber pads.

After disassembling, cleaning and washing the springs, it is necessary to check their condition and determine their suitability for further work. The springs of the UAZ-452 car must be sorted according to the size of the deflection arrow under a load of 600 kg into two groups: Group I - deflection arrow 15-25 mm, Group II - deflection arrow 15-5 mm. The assembled spring is upset by a trial load from its free state to the deflection value indicated in the table below.

Back on the car, the springs are installed in the reverse order of removal. Before installing the springs in the support housings, it is necessary to straighten them. To do this, use a jack or a special device. When installing the springs, pay attention to the position of the cups riveted to the ends of the main sheets. The fully enclosed cups of the front spring should be located at the front moving end, and those of the rear spring should be located at the rear moving end.

After dismantling and changing defective sheets, before assembling the spring, its sheets must be lubricated. The threaded end of the center bolt of the spring should be punched or crushed from the end with hammer blows. The butt of the clamp rivet after being riveted to the spring leaf must not protrude above the leaf surface.

The spring clamps after compression should not prevent the free movement of the sheets during the operation of the spring. After assembly, paint the spring with enamel. Tighten the bolts of the covers of the spring brackets and the nuts of the stepladders after the springs have settled from the weight of the vehicle.

• The main malfunctions, removal and replacement of springs in the car
• Car spring failures
• Do-it-yourself spring repair
• Spring bulkhead

Before proceeding with the repair of the spring, let's figure out what it is and what it is for.This is an elastic element (spring) of the car suspension, which softens the blows on uneven roads: pits, bumps. The disadvantage of the suspension is its short service life, especially under heavy loads or when negligently passing obstacles.

• cracks and breakage of suspension plate;

In the suspension, the correct choice of attachment to the vehicle frame is important. If the effect of loads is underestimated, reliability will drop dramatically. The main types of spring mounting common on cars are with a fixed end of the suspension or free.

Settling of springs occurs due to loss of elasticity or sheet fractures. In this case, you can make a temporary repair: take two wrenches, one will be on top of the sheet, the second on the bottom, wrap them tightly with wire - the tire is ready.

Temporary repair for a broken finger: you need to install any iron rod (screwdriver), wind it with wire. This will allow you to remove the breakdown and get to the place of major repairs. For self-repair on the road, use special bridges. They consist of a forged part and two tension springs. This kit allows you to make the part yourself.

Disassembly and installation:

1. The suspension is clamped in a vice, the clamp is removed;

2. Take out the central bolt;

3. Separate sheets.

Assembly and installation are carried out in the reverse order.

All small parts are carefully looked through, cleaned of dirt and rust, lubricated, replaced. Let's figure out how to lubricate the parts of the spring. To do this, the car body is raised on a jack, the lower ends of the shock absorbers are disconnected from the suspension pads and the sheets are lubricated with thick oil.

Unique cars for unique people

Message Andrews6666 » 15 Dec 2015, 18:24

I have long had a desire to do something with the springs of my IZH. Because when landing in the back seat of 2 passengers, the feed dropped indecently. I was looking for information, someone adds sheets to the spring pack, someone inserts springs. Someone just buys new springs in the store. But something I doubted in these methods and continued to search. And almost by accident I stumbled upon the page of one owner of Moskvich 2140 “Messer” on Here it is - And there the author outlined the whole essence of the process, it seems to me, in the utmost detail and clearly. I decided to restore the springs of my IZH in the same way. Basically, I did everything as the author describes, but with minor deviations, which I will discuss below. With the permission of the author of that page, Roman Polin, I will describe his method here. I will use the text and photo of the author. My personal additions will be highlighted in color .

Traveling through the vast expanses of the Community, I have repeatedly encountered a problem that prevents respected Muscovites from properly exploiting their pets! We are talking about “sagging” springs and ways to solve this important issue. Many try to raise the “stern” by installing additional sheets in the springs, or springs. There is some effect, but at what cost? Our “tired” bodies are tearing to the quick! Everyone has heard stories about springs that have fallen into the cabin, torn “ears” and even burst spars! I myself have never installed either sheets or springs, and I think this is absolutely unpromising! My path is to return the performance of regular springs, by the method of “cold” forging (popularly “bay”).

Two springs stood on Messer, butt lay on the floor.

The resulting sharp tip is slightly worn off and rounded off the edges to look a bit like the edge of a ball. I must say for all the time of work on the springs, this tip has not flattened out in any way. And this hammer didn’t even fall off the handle, it just moved a little and that’s it.

Sent after 15 minutes 38 seconds:
Prepare the battlefield! I take a poplar stump out into the street (he lives in my garage), put yews on it (I’m so strong and broke them a long time ago ... now it’s not a pity ...), next to a chair and a “soloist”,we drag the root sheet onto the operating table and - and apply secret marks on the patient's body (with the help of a matchbox and chalk) Box-50mm. (it wasn’t at hand), we mark the sectors of “shelling” By the mounting hole, we don’t beat! (and in general ... without fanaticism!) “Vaccinations” (from fatigue), we begin to put from the center to the edges. 5 pieces per sector, measured, calm (not with all the dope!) Blows. By the end of the execution, all the neighbors will love the song “Evening Bells ...” with all their hearts (well ... or they will kill the blacksmith ...) but what to do ?!

Here you can adapt a lot of things, we fasten any 2 thick pieces of iron with smooth edges with long large (200 mm) self-tapping screws to the stump. I do not advise you to fasten with small self-tapping screws, hats fly off from shock and vibration.

Sent after 18 minutes 56 seconds:
The first layer of vaccinations has been delivered. Time 5-7 min.

INSTRUCTIONS: between root sheet and sheet-2, the gap (in the center) is 35mm. Since each subsequent sheet is shorter than the previous one, and we need to “catch” the exact gaps. Changing the style of applying “grafting!” Namely! we beat not 5 (per sector), but once, exactly along the entire length, after about 1 cm (of course, from the center to the edges) This style is preserved until the end of the process!

We continue the conversation. We “pull” sheet N-2 to the state of damask steel. Forged, clearance not enough. We continue!

The first, root sheet came to the desired size in 1 pass and with relatively weak blows. Each subsequent sheet was “forged” harder and harder. And you need more power, and more passes, and the obstinate spring rewards the hand with amazing feedback. This is advice from my experience. Winding a ton of rags has little effect. It is better to take a piece of sponge from the old seat, cut out a “brick” about 150x200x100 mm in size. And at the end, make a through cut with a knife, string this brick on the spring and hold it through it. I also noticed that if you hold the sheet not by the edge, but closer to the place of impact, as far as possible, there is less recoil.

It's time to put the mounting bolt back in place. Long (m-8) hairpin and workshop clamp (stud for centering)

Yes! The result is there! And the result is great! It remains a trifle, grab and install in place! And the “coolness” and-and-and ... will not get up! Precisely because it is “cool”, it is impossible to stretch from the “ears” to the stepladders! To solve the problem, we take out an easy-to-make device from the shelf.

Brief description of the design: 2-a 40's corner, length - 1215mm. “Caught” by welding (along the edges) with 15mm spacers. Leads 15 - 16mm. Distances between holes (on the centers) – 1130 mm.; 2 “ladders” (long) rod - 14th, total length - 335mm. Of these, the threads are 160mm m14. The distance between the threads is 50mm; 2 “cockerel”, between threads - 50mm. The total length is 85mm. Of these, threads - 50mm, the rest of the jumper - steel 5mm. Washers lamellar steel-5mm.

We put the spring in a tied state on the car, and after all the fasteners are installed, we remove the fixture.

Of course, I didn’t have such a device, and there was no welding to make it. I resorted to a less technological way, but nevertheless it worked. I fixed the assembled spring in the mounting eye, in the one that is closer to the front of the car. He lifted the spring until it touched the second lug of the spar under the trunk floor. Under the bottom of the spring, in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe mounting central bolt, I placed a rhombic jack. And he began to slowly raise, the spring straightened and the free eye crawled along the spar to meet the “earring”.

When I crawled close enough, I simply inserted the earring, twisted its mount and lowered the jack.

Sent after 12 minutes 6 seconds:
Now for some tips and tricks. I “beat off” the root sheet by 230mm. Forget about it! (beat for their own purposes) The exact dimensions are as follows: root 180-200 mm. other dimensions are valid: 35-25-15-5 mm. And the last (short) leaf is tight!

I beat off the root sheet by 230 mm, like the author.Because I often travel with passengers in the back and cargo in the trunk.

IMPORTANT! The edges of the springs (where the holes for the gaskets are not “pounded!”), When the second spring is ready, it turns out that one of the two will definitely be “higher!” This is fine! (the blacksmith's hand is not “automatic”) We put “High” on the driver's side! (everything will be fine.) After installing the springs on the car, do not try to “dress” the shock absorbers. Will not work! Tie them with a rope and quietly ride around the garages, on the very first bump of food “sit down”

I did this, loaded 40 pieces of bricks into the trunk, and jumped on the hitch, the stern sat down. The rear lugs of the springs “came off” from the spars and took a more natural position. Bricks immediately unloaded, did not go with them.

You will see that the shock absorbers are stretched out and dressed back to back. What to do? We do not put any sandbags in the trunk! We immediately take the 50th corner, cut 4 pieces (landmark the upper ears of the shock absorbers) We take (by welding) the pieces into a “square” and prepare the spacers (between the ears and the body) That's it! We enjoy the view of the road (rather than looking at the hood pulled up) And the last request. Guys! Each additional sheet is a terrible force! And she needs to “play” somewhere, the body of a Muscovite is strong, but there is a limit to everything - IT WILL TEAR! (a matter of time) And an additional spring (on the rear axle), it's like bending a stick over your knee, two spring attachment points + a spring in the middle. So where does the bridge go?
Thank you all for your attention, good luck!

Sent after 6 minutes 51 seconds:
And here is a photo of my car before the restoration of the springs

The angle is slightly different, but I think the difference is noticeable.

In this position, the spring earrings on an empty car

The springs should be repaired if necessary. To avoid this, it is necessary to disassemble them every 10,000 km and thoroughly clean them from dirt and rust. They clean the springs of the car with an emery cloth and wash them in kerosene. Before putting it back together, you need to lubricate them with a mixture of grease and graphite.

Springs, like other parts of the car, need care.

To protect the springs from rusting, it is necessary to paint them with a quick-drying paint before installing them in place.

Lubricate the spring fingers and the fingers of the earrings every 2 days using a grease gun. In this case, you need to carefully work with the spring pin and carefully tighten the nuts to avoid breaking the pins due to their fragility. In particular, it is not necessary to use hammer blows.

To avoid breakdowns and accidents, spring maintenance suggests that every 2 days it is necessary to check and tighten the spring ladders, with which the springs are attached to the front axle and rear axle. In this case, the ladders must always be tightly tightened.

A little about springs:

If the car works in difficult conditions, then to protect the springs, they are wrapped with tarred twine, and a canvas cover is put on them, which is stuffed with grease.

Most failures occur on the front springs, since they are often loaded due to shocks and rough roads.

These failures are often in the form of broken leaf springs, loose leaf springs, broken spring pins, and stripped stepladder bolts.

In the event of a broken spring, a mandatory replacement of the springs is required. When the spring sags, the car body leans to one side, which, of course, is considered unacceptable. Such a deflection is eliminated by editing according to the template.

Springs do not last forever - they also have malfunctions

Due to the rather thick padding, the tapered head of the spring center bolt is very difficult to fit into the axle recess that is designed for it. As a result, the spring slides back and forth along the axle. Stepladder nuts with not too thick pads are not designed for screwing on locknuts.

A further and great advantage of springs having sliding ends is that their effective working length is reduced in the event of an increase in load, whereby they are better able to resist shocks.Sliding springs are not capable of absorbing and transmitting pushing forces from the rear axle to the frame. Such springs act only as an elastic suspension for the car. Komnik places the ends of the root and root sheets of springs in the bracket. Here the springs slide on a roller. Due to such a device, the tension of the springs is greatly weakened.

In springs with ears, the load is distributed on the cross section of the sheet. In the spring suspension described above, the load is simultaneously perceived by two sheets, due to which it is distributed over a larger section. This, in turn, increases the margin of safety.

Spring earrings and fingers are usually equipped with nipples. Through them, they are periodically lubricated with the help of a grease filler. In the case of changing the spring fingers, they should be coated with grease. In addition, the springs must be protected from rust.

Spring repair:

Periodically, the coloring of the sheets should be renewed if it is damaged. It is also necessary to lubricate the surfaces of some sheets that are in contact with each other. To perform this procedure, you need to put the car on a goat or raise it on jacks not under the axle, but under the frame. In this case, the springs will be unloaded, and some of the sheets will disperse a little, so it will be possible to introduce some grease or thick oil between them.

The spring pin may break if it is not sufficiently lubricated. Of course, such a spring pin will have traces of significant wear.

In the event that such a breakdown occurs on the way, then for the time required to get to the nearest workshop, you can put some kind of rod, key, screwdriver or something like that in its place, and then tie it up with wire.

If a squeak or creak of spring pins or sheets occurs, we can talk about their insufficient lubrication. In case of breakage of the spring leaf on the way, you need to put 2 wrenches on top and bottom of the broken leaf. The resulting structure must be tightly tied with wire. At the same time, you need to go further very carefully.

Maintain the springs - they will last you a long time

Very practical are the repair bridges, with which you can quickly carry out the manufacture and repair of springs on the road. Such bridges contain a solid forged part and two spring tensions.

Thus, spring care involves periodically tightening the ladder nuts and lubricating the leaf springs, which can be lubricated without removing from the car. This is done by detaching the lower ends of the shock absorbers from the spring pads and raising the body so that the wheels come off the floor.

In addition, once a year it is necessary to remove the springs and disassemble them for lubrication and cleaning.

Feel free to leave your feedback and comments on our website.

V. Zhibutko's advice on how to correct sagging springs, published in the February issue of the magazine last year, aroused interest among the owners of "Muscovites". The head of the AZLK design group S. LIPGART and motorist V. ANKUDINOV from Izhevsk responded with stories about other, more advanced ways to restore the shape and elasticity of the springs.

We bring them to your attention.

The author of the mentioned note recommended bending the straightened sheets of springs by placing them on a channel and striking in increments of about 50 mm with a sledgehammer through a chisel-like mandrel. This method is fraught with unpleasant consequences. First, a strong deformation of the sheet at the points of impact significantly reduces its fatigue strength. Secondly, indentations in the sheet, which remain in the form of thin strips, become stress concentrators and can cause cracks. This danger is intensified, since the previously even surface of the sheet acquires a faceted shape. And, finally, the author recommends increasing the deflection to 50 mm, without specifying the shape of the sheet before editing.

These shortcomings are deprived of the method of restoring sagging springs by hard work, which is accepted in auto repair practice.

The sheet is placed on a slab or flat anvil and a heavy hammer with a smooth, slightly convex head strikes the concave side of the sheet, starting from the central hole. Particularly carefully forge a zone located at a distance of 40 to 70 mm on both sides of it. The more uniformly the impacts follow and the less each of them deforms the surface layer in relation to the adjacent area, the less the risk of sheet breakage.

As a result, the sheet will bend evenly, approaching in shape an arc of constant radius.

The leaf sags (their "heights") must be within the factory-specified limits, as they are determined with respect to the required spring shape under load and fatigue strength. For Moskvich spring sheets subjected to editing, the following deflection arrows should be provided: the first (root) - 100 ... 130 mm on an arc 1150 mm long, the second - 130 ... 150, the third - 100 ... 115, the fourth - 70 ... fifth - 35 ... 40, sixth (lower, rectangular section) - 5 ... 7 mm. In this case, the curvature of each next sheet after the root should be greater than that of the one above it. To unload a sheet located above, it is necessary that the parts, before tightening with a center bolt, come into contact only with their ends through anti-creak gaskets.

After straightening the sheets, assembling the spring, and even a small mileage of the car, some spring settlement is natural, since residual stresses have been removed.

With this in mind, you should not be afraid that the spring will be too “high” immediately after installation on the car. If it remains so even after a run of several tens of kilometers, it will be too rigid and may break prematurely due to an increase in real deformations.

Thus, the nature of the work and the durability of the restored spring largely depend on the correct hardening of the sheets (the quality of the resulting surface) and the mutual coordination of the radii of curvature, and hence on the qualifications of the performer.

Restoring the original shape of the springs by simply bending the sheets does not give the desired result. I know from experience that after two or three months such a spring sags again.

I restore springs by forging sheets. I must say right away that this requires certain skills, since the blows must be delivered with accurate and equal force. The result is remarkable - the springs serve no worse, if not better than new ones, without losing their shape and rigidity for a long time. I have been driving on the last restored springs of the Izhevsk Moskvich for four years now with a heavy load and on bad roads, without complaining about the suspension.

How do I restore a spring?

I take it apart, clean all the sheets from rust and dirt. I put each sheet with the concave side on the anvil, which is a steel blank with a diameter of 100-120 mm. I strike with a hammer in increments of 5 ... 6 mm across the sheet, as shown in fig. 1. The impact force must be such that a noticeable dent remains on the surface.

I forge the root sheet first, until the distance between its ends reaches 1150 mm (the deflection arrow is about 260 mm). The remaining sheets, in order, are adjusted to the one located on top. At first I assembled a spring from all seven sheets, but its rigidity turned out to be excessive. Removed the bottom two — it turned out what you need.

A few words about the instrument. This is a light sledgehammer (weight about 1.5 kg), on the head of which a piece of steel (steel 45) rod 30 mm long and 18 mm in diameter, pre-hardened, is welded. So that it does not release during welding, it should be cooled with water. First, I forge the root sheet from the ends to the middle. This is how I check the quality of my work. Having fixed one end of the sheet, I press on the other so that the sheet straightens. I let go and check how much its shape has changed (deflection arrow). If it is significant, I forge again. And so on until I am convinced that the sheet retains the required curvature after unbending.

When assembling the spring, a simple device is useful - a hook with a crowbar (Fig. 2).Putting a hook on the ear of the spring, we pass a crowbar through the hole in it and, resting the end against the leaf of the spring, press down on the other, while lowering the jack. And one more piece of advice. Wrap the free ends of the anvil with a thick, damp cloth or place sandbags on the ends of the anvil to muffle the piercing, annoying ringing as you work.

If you do everything right, the springs will not remind you of themselves for a long time.

From the editor. Comparing the described methods of straightening springs, readers probably noted that S. Lipgart advises to strike with a hammer on the inside (concave) side of the sheet, and V. Ankudinov - on the outside. And the result is the same - the sheet bends inward. There is no error here. When a convex striker hits the inside of a sheet lying on a flat slab, hardening (compaction) of the surface layer occurs, as a result of which the fibers are reduced here, and on the outside they are lengthened. In the second case, under the impact of a cylindrical striker, the fibers lengthen, while those lying on the anvil are reduced. The sheet is bent inwards.

Rice. I. Sheet editing: 1 - a hammer with a welded bar; 2 - anvil; 3 - leaf spring.

The spring may have the following defects:

1. deflection change (draft)
2. sheet breakage
3. breakage and thread failure of ladders, clamps and center bolt
4. bushing and pin wear

To eliminate these defects, the removed spring is disassembled. For this purpose, the spring is clamped in a vice or in special clamps, then the clamps and the center bolt are released and the vice or clamps are carefully unclenched.

The deflection arrow (curvature) of the sheets is checked with a template. With a slight decrease in the deflection compared to normal, the sheets are corrected in a cold state by hammer blows on the inner surface of the sheet (straightening). Blows are applied from the middle of the sheet, first strong, and as they approach the ends - weak. If the decrease in the deflection is more than half its value, then the sheets are corrected with heating to a temperature of 700-800 °. After straightening, the sheets are heated to a temperature of 800°, quenched in oil, and then tempered with heating to a temperature of 400-500°.

Worn bushings of the main sheet are deployed under an enlarged spring pin or replaced with new ones. Smooth spring fingers are restored to the nominal size by chrome plating or ground to a smaller size for repair bushings.

Before assembling the spring, the sheets are thoroughly cleaned, lubricated with graphite ointment, put on a special rod (instead of a center bolt) and compressed in a vice or clamps. After that, the rod is removed, a center bolt is inserted instead, its nut is tightened to failure and clamps are installed.

If the center bolt is not provided for in the design of the spring, then when assembling it, it is necessary to combine the protrusions of the upper sheets with the recesses of the lower sheets and tighten the sheets with clamps.

After assembly, the spring is tested under pressure. The press spindle is pressed on the middle of the spring until it is completely straightened (the deflection arrow is equal to zero); then the spring is gradually released, the deflection arrow is measured and pressed again. If after the second pressing the sag is preserved, the spring is suitable, if the sag decreases (the spring sits down), then the spring is rejected.

We work together on a viewing ditch.

We jack up the beam and remove the front wheel (see Removing the front wheel).
Under the front end of the frame we substitute a reliable factory-made stand with a load capacity of at least 2 tons and a height of 700 mm. We lower the jack and leave it under the beam or, for convenience, rearrange it under the hub. In order not to damage the brake hose, we recommend that you remove the front brake caliper and tie it to the frame.

With a “24” head, we unscrew the four bolts for fastening the ladders.

Holding the bolt of the front eyelet of the spring with the “22” key, unscrew the nut with the “24” head.

We knock out the bolt with a beard or a suitable rod.

Similarly, unscrew the nut and knock out the bolt of the rear spring mounting (to the earring).

We insert the bolts into the hinges of the spring.We stretch the cord between them and measure the spring deflection arrow.

It should be 147 ± 10 mm for a two-leaf spring, and 135 ± 5 mm for a four-leaf spring. If this value is less, we replace the entire spring.

We unbend the clamp, striking with a hammer through another hammer.

Having clamped the spring in a vise, with two “17” keys we unscrew the nut of the centering bolt and remove the bolt.

Separate the leaf springs.

We clean the inner surfaces of the leaf springs from dirt and rust.

To replace the rubber-metal hinges, we put the spring eye under the press.

To facilitate the pressing of a new hinge with a file or an emery wheel, we make a lead-in chamfer on the edges of the metal plates from the end of the hinge.

We compress the hinge with a tape clamp. We lubricate the hinge with soapy water and use the mandrel to press it in on the same press.

Mandrel for pressing out (pressing in) the rubber-metal hinge of the spring lugs.

Material - steel
Having lubricated the sides of the sheets facing each other with graphite grease, we assemble the spring. Please note the difference in design...

We unscrew the nut and take out the bolt securing the spring earring.

Remove the spring shackle plates.

While holding the bolts of the earring bracket with a “14” wrench, ...

... with a “17” head we unscrew four nuts ...

We replace the rubber-metal hinge as indicated above.
We install the removed parts in reverse order, evenly tightening the nuts of the stepladders.

ATTENTION
The vertical protrusion on the spring pad must face the longitudinal axis of the vehicle. The final tightening of the nuts of the rubber-metal hinge bolts should be carried out on a loaded vehicle with straightened springs. This is necessary for the correct operation of the hinges.

Similarly, we disassemble the spring and replace the rubber-metal hinges on the other side of the car.

Salam, lads.
Bought a Gazelle. She noticeably sagging rear springs. Replacement for new ones disappears (the question is in the price) 😉
Father says nothing terrible - a day to wave a sledgehammer, forge and they are like new. I was looking for how to do it in the repair zone and read in useful tips that you can not forge, but replace the earrings with elongated ones by 30-40mm. The spring will rise from the springs and still serve.
That's the question. It will serve to serve, but, probably, it will almost certainly bend in the opposite direction. Maybe someone has tried. Tell me which is better - forging or lengthening. And in general, what is fraught with such an elongation in the future.
There will be no need to load the car heavily, but you will have to drive relatively a lot.

I haven’t heard about elongated earrings. But I’ve heard about the fact that spring sheets can be straightened out. They say it’s possible, but not for long, and you’ll shake your hands. If you don’t load a lot, it might make sense to buy a used one and throw another sheet. .

Salam, lads.
Bought a Gazelle. She noticeably sagging rear springs. Replacement for new ones disappears (the question is in the price) 😉
Father says nothing terrible - a day to wave a sledgehammer, forge and they are like new. I was looking for how to do it in the repair zone and read in useful tips that you can not forge, but replace the earrings with elongated ones by 30-40mm. The spring will rise from the springs and still serve.
That's the question. It will serve to serve, but, probably, it will almost certainly bend in the opposite direction. Maybe someone has tried. Tell me which is better - forging or lengthening. And in general, what is fraught with such an elongation in the future.
There will be no need to load the car heavily, but you will have to drive relatively a lot.

I put on earrings elongated by 50 mm two years ago, the car has already covered about 150 thousand km on them, everything is in order, it has even become softer, but I have a minibus and a maximum load of 800 kilograms (13 people).

I put on earrings elongated by 50 mm two years ago, the car has already covered about 150 thousand km on them, everything is in order, it has even become softer, but I have a minibus and a maximum load of 800 kilograms (13 people).

And here, if possible, in a more popular way.Where did you get the earring sizes? They measured their own, but how to measure the diameter of the holes without removing the earrings, there seems to be a tight fit?
Load also max up to 1t. So I think this way is fine.

I put on earrings elongated by 50 mm two years ago, the car has already covered about 150 thousand km on them, everything is in order, it has even become softer, but I have a minibus and a maximum load of 800 kilograms (13 people).

And here, if possible, in a more popular way. Where did you get the earring sizes? They measured their own, but how to measure the diameter of the holes without removing the earrings, there seems to be a tight fit?
Load also max up to 1t. So I think this way is fine.

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AlexanderAktobe 06 Apr 2010

And here, if possible, in a more popular way. Where did you get the earring sizes? They measured their own, but how to measure the diameter of the holes without removing the earrings, there seems to be a tight fit?
Load also max up to 1t. So I think this way is fine.
[/quote]

Measure the diameter of the hole at the tip of the bolt protruding from the nut, the hole is not tight, usually for a bolt to pass, or 16 or 18, I don’t remember exactly, you drill 0.5 mm more, 2nd: measure the distance between the centers of the two holes and increase it is 40-50 mm (as you want), 3rd: you make new earrings from metal no thinner than 6 mm (I did not count, but I have such). And one more thing (it has nothing to do with your question), if you put a stabilizer and gas-oil shock absorbers, then it will finally buzz.

[quote name='Nomadic' date='6.4.2010, 10:27′ post='347918′]
Salam, lads.
Bought a Gazelle. She noticeably sagging rear springs. Replacement for new ones disappears (the question is in the price) 😉
Father says nothing terrible - a day to wave a sledgehammer, forge and they are like new. I was looking for how to do it in the repair zone and read in useful tips that you can not forge, but replace the earrings with elongated ones by 30-40mm. The spring will rise from the springs and still serve.
That's the question. It will serve to serve, but, probably, it will almost certainly bend in the opposite direction. Maybe someone has tried. Tell me which is better - forging or lengthening. And in general, what is fraught with such an elongation in the future.
There will be no need to load the car heavily, but you will have to drive relatively a lot.
[/ quote

if you do not find a machine with three rollers
sledgehammer will help you
I treat so regularly
and the hands go

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amur evo Apr 06, 2010

Salam, lads.
Bought a Gazelle. She noticeably sagging rear springs. Replacement for new ones disappears (the question is in the price) 😉
Father says nothing terrible - a day to wave a sledgehammer, forge and they are like new. I was looking for how to do it in the repair zone and read in useful tips that you can not forge, but replace the earrings with elongated ones by 30-40mm. The spring will rise from the springs and still serve.
That's the question. It will serve to serve, but, probably, it will almost certainly bend in the opposite direction. Maybe someone has tried. Tell me which is better - forging or lengthening. And in general, what is fraught with such an elongation in the future.
There will be no need to load the car heavily, but you will have to drive relatively a lot.

I turned over the brackets and the earrings - rose by 12-15cm.

I turned over the brackets and the earrings - rose by 12-15cm.

Yes, you can really turn the rear brackets of the rear springs, due to which the car will rise, this is done from the factory on all-wheel drive GAZelles. I also made spacers from 40mm steel between the spring and the bridge, respectively changing the stepladders to longer ones.

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alexandr1975 22 Apr 2010

All clear. Forging only. Everything else only slightly improves the situation, but in the future it only aggravates everything.

correct. lengthening the earrings-intervention in the design of the vehicle: removal of numbers and a fine. and I read about straightening the springs in the old (where else they wrote about the case, and did not shout about the advantages of expensive foreign cars) the magazine “driving”, the meaning of the article is that on the convex side it is necessary to form a hardening, for this the spring is placed with the concave side on the anvil (the rail for the steam locomotive is the very thing), and on the convex side we hit with a special hammer (the striker is rounded, the rounding axis during impacts is perpendicular to the spring and parallel to the rounding axis of the top of the rail) upon impacts it forms hardening and it, expanding, increases the deflection and stiffness of the spring. I would also advise you to check the wear of the root sheets (uneven thickness), I would not straighten the root sheets.

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SA.DIESEL Apr 25, 2010

heat it up with a blowtorch and burn as much as you need
All springs have been refurbished. on two cars. so no problem.

And how long does such a repair last?

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alex2 26 Apr 2010

I rolled my springs, there are machines - three rollers, enough for three years and again you have to roll.

And how long does such a repair last?

a sledgehammer is good-physical development! and the head begins to think that it is necessary to buy new two-sheet ones are not so expensive

you need to buy new two sheet ones are not so expensive

How can I say not so expensive.
Still expensive, one in the collection of $ 110. And you need two, and you also need a muffler, and also rubber, and also change the oil, and more. and also a tape recorder. In general, I don’t save on a car, but since I don’t know how to draw money, I try to make repairs on my own.
Of course, the ideal option is to replace it with new ones, or even better, a new GAZelle. Today I did the second side. Zae *** is not childish. The fingers do not bend and do not unbend, the back hurts, the hands hurt. But the result is PLEASANT! And if such a repair is enough for at least a year of intensive operation, I will forge every year, I won’t break. But the car will be fine.
THIS IS NOT I HAVE A GAZELLE, THIS GAZELLE HAS ME! 😉
I'll post a photo soon.

Salam, lads.
Bought a Gazelle. She noticeably sagging rear springs. Replacement for new ones disappears (the question is in the price) 😉
Father says nothing terrible - a day to wave a sledgehammer, forge and they are like new. I was looking for how to do it in the repair zone and read in useful tips that you can not forge, but replace the earrings with elongated ones by 30-40mm. The spring will rise from the springs and still serve.
That's the question. It will serve to serve, but, probably, it will almost certainly bend in the opposite direction. Maybe someone has tried. Tell me which is better - forging or lengthening. And in general, what is fraught with such an elongation in the future.
There will be no need to load the car heavily, but you will have to drive relatively a lot.

I put on 3 cm long earrings. To take measurements, I bought an earring (40 rubles). cut out some nada from a strip 6 mm thick. And the holes were drilled for me by a turner. while walking (about 20 thousand km). I am satisfied. I read about elongated earrings in a book on Gazelle

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alex2 26 Apr 2010

How can I say not so expensive.
Still expensive, one in the collection of $ 110. And you need two, and you also need a muffler, and also rubber, and also change the oil, and more. and also a tape recorder. In general, I don’t save on a car, but since I don’t know how to draw money, I try to make repairs on my own.
Of course, the ideal option is to replace it with new ones, or even better, a new GAZelle. Today I did the second side. Zae *** is not childish. The fingers do not bend and do not unbend, the back hurts, the hands hurt. But the result is PLEASANT! And if such a repair is enough for at least a year of intensive operation, I will forge every year, I won’t break. But the car will be fine.
THIS IS NOT I HAVE A GAZELLE, THIS GAZELLE HAS ME! 😉
I'll post a photo soon.

it’s like metal science used to go around, so there is metal fatigue and heat treatment is needed to remove it. and the spring works constantly and it has a number of times it will work. plus shock absorbers should work so that the springs do not break earlier.