In detail: DIY repair of the wheel hub thread from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
Even immediately after buying a car, having removed a wheel for something, I discovered a damaged thread on one of the wheel bolts of the rear left wheel. The thread was damaged not only on the bolt, but also on the hub. And last Friday, when changing wheels, she finally got covered. And as it turned out, finding a used rear hub separately for a Senator / Omega six-cylinder is an impossible task. As well as the entire rear suspension arm as a whole. On the Internet, a rear lever was found from the OOA Caravan with a 2.4 engine, the hub of which should fit.
I'll probably buy this lever anyway, because they sell it very cheaply. From it it will be possible to pull out the hub and press it into my lever with a new bearing. And at the moment, to be honest, I am completely reluctant to bother with this. And with just one hand at your disposal, it won't be easy. Therefore, it was decided to repair the damaged thread.
So, first we remove the brake caliper in order to remove the brake disc. The arrow indicates a damaged thread.
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I actually have w123
After another visit to the service, the locksmith said that the thread in my rear hubs had died.
(Suppose, even if I did not notice this)
In total, 3 of the original 5 threads remained in the rear hubs.
I have casting from 126, for long bolts. And a set of stamps from 123 for short.
1. Cut under 14 from the boar, (Eliminates, there are no short bolts for 14 for stamps)
2. Drive in the hairpins from the back, won't they interfere with the handbrake?
3. And screw in the cylinder head bolts from the cans, scald and cut off as needed. But here it is necessary to measure so that there is enough for casting, and not too stick out from the stamps.
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Video (click to play). |
Maybe someone knows what other options?
Post has been edited by EngineOil: 29 November 2017 - 20:21
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Sim 28 Nov 2017
1 can be cut if the bolts from the wild boar fit into your discs-14 does not fit into all discs. . (a din bolt? -cannot know how to use a grinder? and bolts in any chain store are sold ANY length 1240907013.html)
2 can be studs, only from ipontseff - they are stronger, a flat heel with a thickness of only 3mm will not interfere there.
3 Screw the standard bolts onto the strong anaerobic thread lock.
Post has been edited by Sim: 28 November 2017 - 23:25
but there is, well, vaaaasche a simple option - to put a normal hub.
guys, don't give a damn about your life, so think about others.
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Sim 29 Nov 2017
but there is, well, vaaaasche a simple option - to put a normal hub.
Lech, you are a bum, you can buy everything and change. Even you can do that. And for nachlapaib. sa?
Post has been edited by Sim: 29 November 2017 - 09:31
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It is necessary not from the wild boar, but from the later ones, type 221. They also look nice, with a stainless cap. There is a thread for 14, but a turnkey for 17, if memory serves.
Lech, you are a bum, you can buy everything and change. Even you can do that. And for nachlapaib. sa?
San, gone are the days when there was a desire “And for nachlapaib. sa ”. and the meaning?
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Post has been edited by Companion: 29 November 2017 - 18:35
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I actually have w123
After another visit to the service, the locksmith said that the thread in my rear hubs had died.
(Suppose, even if I did not notice
I would tell a locksmith everything that I think of him, and only because without the application of the tool with which he worked to his head, that there is nothing to take from him and it is difficult to justify himself, unfortunately, it will be)))
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but there is, well, vaaaasche a simple option - to put a normal hub.
guys, don't give a damn about your life, so think about others.
The simplest and most expensive
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You can drill and cut a thread next to 5 pieces
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You can drill and cut a thread next to 5 pieces
It is possible, but with good equipment. the wheel is centered on the wheel bolts!
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There are threaded inserts made of rhomboid wire Helicoil, Recoil, V-Coil, the thread turns out to be strong, I personally checked Recoil, of the minuses, the high price of the tool, it may be cheaper to find a good hub, or contact people who are engaged in inserts, they will cut and insert with their own tool, the inserts themselves are not that expensive work.
The simplest and most expensive
the hub costs 1500r. replace it with a couple more rubles. it is expensive. and refueling the car is not expensive, and buying toothpaste is not expensive? but if a detached wheel arrives in the bumper of some 221st, don't think about it?
Last summer, I witnessed such a moment on the M6 highway: an Opel is driving, it seems like an aster, someone has recently arrived in his ass, the rear bumper is on one side in the wind at speed. I catch up with him and show him - they say, tie. he waves, they say, I know further. I stopped at a gas station while I had a snack. going further.
after a while I see a picture - a piece of his bumper sticks out in the hood of a fresh Mazda, and three guys, apparently the passengers of this Mazda, are spilling this comrade on the first number. and I count. that they were right.
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It is possible, but with good equipment. the wheel is centered on the wheel bolts!
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why not share the link right away?
why not share the link right away?
and the bearing is still a dozen)))
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Sim 30 Nov 2017
why not share the link right away?
so Sheremet and ask for contacts in his signature.
and the bearing is still a dozen)))
total 20.
And 2 bolts 100 upley and a tap for 14 more 200. Or studs from Toyota with nuts 300 upley and a drill for 14-50.
So, what will be the score in favor of the collective farm? Who thinks what?
Post has been edited by Sim: 30 November 2017 - 09:05
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Artyom_70 30 Nov 2017
I did it like this, and everything works fine, the main thing is to do it carefully, and not hastily. But it's still better to replace the hub!
Post has been editedArtem_70: 30 November 2017 - 19:44
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It is elementary to drill a hole for a bolt of the next size and cut a thread.
They will do it in any more or less normal service. Choosing the bolts with the appropriate pitch and length (for example, in the South Port) is a trivial matter.
On new budget foreign cars, all the time, the hub metal is not made of steel, but of some kind of lightweight, cheap alloy. At tire shops, different handles are assholes, the thread is licked off with a bang. Thus, thread restoration is on stream. The quality is normal and the wheels do not fly away.
It is elementary to drill a hole for a bolt of the next size and cut a thread.
They will do it in any more or less normal service. Choosing the bolts with the appropriate pitch and length (for example, in the South Port) is a trivial matter.
On new budget foreign cars, all the time, the hub metal is not made of steel, but of some kind of lightweight, cheap alloy. At tire shops, different handles are assholes, the thread is licked off with a bang. Thus, thread restoration is on stream. The quality is normal and the wheels do not fly away.
there is now one bolt under the M14 cut on my car. the bolt itself is regular from the 211st.
but, firstly, I have one of 20, and secondly, a new lever assembly is waiting in the wings. it is new, from the word completely.
and thirdly, this bolt quite calmly passes through the disk, which is standing.
First, you can kick whoever did it in the face.
Did you still have a bolt in the hub? If yes, then you take a drill, drill 3mm, in the center of the bolt you bring a hole, not deep, 5mm.
You buy a set for torn off screws (a set of 3-5 pieces with a left-hand thread), insert it into the hole, screw it in the opposite direction - unscrewing the bolt from the hub.
well, then you act as you wrote Smilodon
I sympathize, BUT, this is a very responsible place, in order to farm, the only way out is to change the part. Shake the crooked hands.
Well, it will be a pointless act. Cattle act (no offense).
Do you have any idea how to change the hub even at the expense of a sane tire fitting?
Even if it turns out to collect some kind of evidence base (I even have a poor idea of what it could be, except perhaps two witnesses who tightened this bolt right before the tire fitting and immediately after, and can confirm the difference, and even then they will say what it seemed to them .).
I had a similar case - in words they even agreed that they screwed up, but as for the papers - they rested their horns.
So, you have to change at your own expense. And for the future, advice is to change the wheels yourself. It’s safer for yourself, even though your hands will get dirty. Just recently, I threw rubber, on one wheel 4 bolts went fine, and one - with effort. Only the third time I hit the right thread. But I felt it with my hand - what if there was a hefty wrench?
there was the same situation, 2 weeks ago
if everything was done at the OD, then there would be no questions - they would change themselves at their own expense, and since a third party (tire fitting) intervened, then the perpetrators will not be attracted - they will blame each other.
I recommend to go to the informal, let them look, maybe you can drive the thread (OD does not bother with such things, suggests changing the hub assembly - in this case, you can put a non-original SKF about 8000 r instead of 16)
In the end, the issue was resolved in 20 minutes. We drove the thread, tightened a new bolt, and everything is ok.
If one of the bolts securing the front wheel to the hub began to turn, the thread in it fell off. What to do in this case and how to restore the thread of the holes?
To get out of the position, you can, without drilling out the remnants of the thread, insert a bolt with a length of 50 mm from the back of the hub with a slight interference. with M12 × 1.25 thread. The length of the threaded part is 30 mm. The bolt keeps the brake disc from turning on one side, and the hub on the other.
If you have a welding machine, it is better to “grab” the bolt by welding from the back side, and to avoid imbalance, you can cut off the rest (bolt head) with a grinder. This solution is suitable for both the hub and the axle shaft.
One of the bolt faces is grinded with a file under the hub profile, as shown in the figure.
Installing a bolt in a threaded connection
This temporary thread repair can last for quite some time. But we advise you not to tempt fate and, at the first opportunity, replace the hub with a new one, since it is relatively inexpensive (for VAZ 2101-2107 about 400 rubles).
Hello! Today I want to talk about the problem of thread licking in the front wheel hub of the VAZ 2101-2107, this also applies to the thread in the axle shaft. And it was like this ...
While driving, there was a hum from the front right wheel. After certain tests, the cause of these sounds was identified - the hub bearings are worn out. The diagnosis is natural - for replacement of bearings and an oil seal. But everything turned out to be not so simple. On closer inspection, even by eye, it became noticeable that the hub had become a little egg-shaped, that is, oval in shape.
The wheel came off the hub with difficulty. As it was later found out, this could happen when jamming and excessive heating, there was a sharp cooling, as a result of which, the hub led. I had to change her too. But one more problem - where to get it in the middle of the night? Yes, and not a desire to spend money on a new one, although this is everyone's business.
As a result, a hub was found, in which 3 (.) Of 4 threads in the holes were torn off. The action plan was as follows:
- Take the old hub, clean it from dust and dirt.
- Drill the hole.
- Cut the thread for the bolt from the Moskvich 2141 car.
- Drill holes in the washer that fits over the top of the brake disc.
- Take it easy!
Well, I immediately hear the cries of opponents, but within a small family budget, this is the most profitable option. And if the thread in the hub is not very good, then you can use my advice.
First of all, 3 bolts from a Muscovite 2141 were bought, they are thicker than Zhiguli ones - M14, step 1.5. The corresponding taps, tap holder, drill were also found. The taps were used No. 1 and No. 2, the difference in the depth of the threads on the tap, that is, the first does not completely make the thread profile, but only outline them, while the second displays the full profile.
Drilling, of course, is better on a drilling machine, but it is quite possible to do with an electric drill and a vice, in which you need to fix the hub with the stripped thread. After threading - check if the bolt goes well. If everything is done well, then the bolt should be screwed in by hand without jamming. The last step is to drill holes in the washer.
A few photos to the article about the stripped thread in the hub:
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And the thread in the hub has been torn off? Maybe on a bolt?
Option number 1: try to go through with a sword, maybe the thread is just a little jammed. But it will still be unreliable.
Option # 2: drill a hole, cut a larger thread, order a bolt. The disadvantage is that there will be one specific bolt for this hole. Reliability is also questionable - it is not known what this bolt will be made of.
Option number 3: take the hub during disassembly (the threads will naturally need to be checked).
Option number 4: a new hub.
I would stop at option number 3, as more or less reliable and the most inexpensive. And it doesn't matter if the hub bearing is changed, well, maybe except for the first option.
As for the studs - for sports I use the stud from the box attachment 2108. Only cut a little with a grinder. Nuts are from Niva. But it seems to me that you can't go through THAT with pins. And one more drawback - stamped discs will not work with such pins. Either put spacers, or alloy wheels, or make the hairpin yourself from the cylinder head bolt and weld it to the hub so that more than necessary is not screwed in (especially important for the rear hub).
Well, advice for the future - never trust the tire fitters to screw the wheels.This is usually how it all ends
Added after 2 minutes 12 seconds:
Yes, one more option: if the discs are stamped, try to put a bolt for casting. Perhaps he will hold on, tk. slightly longer. But this is only a temporary solution, because there will be only a few turns. Although, I drove for 2 years until the hubs were changed
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First, you can kick whoever did it in the face.
Did you still have a bolt in the hub? If yes, then you take a drill, drill 3mm, in the center of the bolt you bring a hole, not deep, 5mm.
You buy a set for torn off screws (a set of 3-5 pieces with a left-hand thread), insert it into the hole, screw it in the opposite direction - unscrewing the bolt from the hub.
well, then you act as you wrote Smilodon
I sympathize, BUT, this is a very responsible place, in order to farm, the only way out is to change the part. Shake the crooked hands.
Well, it will be a pointless act. Cattle act (no offense).
Do you have any idea how to change the hub even at the expense of a sane tire fitting?
Even if it turns out to collect some kind of evidence base (I even have a poor idea of what it could be, except perhaps two witnesses who tightened this bolt right before the tire fitting and immediately after, and can confirm the difference, and even then they will say what it seemed to them .).
I had a similar case - in words they even agreed that they screwed up, but as for the papers - they rested their horns.
So, you have to change at your own expense. And for the future, advice is to change the wheels yourself.It’s safer for yourself, even though your hands will get dirty. Just recently, I threw rubber, on one wheel 4 bolts went fine, and one - with effort. Only the third time I hit the right thread. But I felt it with my hand - what if there was a hefty wrench?
there was the same situation, 2 weeks ago
if everything was done by the OD, then there would be no questions - they would change themselves at their own expense, and since a third party (tire fitting) intervened, then the perpetrators will not be attracted - they will blame each other.
I recommend going to the unofficial, let them look, maybe you can drive out the thread (OD does not bother with such things, suggests changing the hub assembly - in this case, you can put a non-original SKF about 8000 r instead of 16)
In the end, the issue was resolved in 20 minutes. We drove the thread, tightened a new bolt, and everything is ok.
Message Hits »06 Jun 2011, 12:52
Message vitalik196 »06 Jun 2011, 13:13
Message Hits »06 June 2011, 13:16
Message danger766 »06 Jun 2011, 13:33
Message petro86 »06 June 2011, 13:40
Message Hits »06 Jun 2011, 13:45
Message vitalik196 »06 Jun 2011, 13:46
what are you going to twist with a tap if everything has already been torn down, even if you fix it not for long
Added after 2 minutes 8 seconds:
Hits, thread don't drill it cut
Message doctorgeb »06 June 2011, 13:50
Message Hits »06 Jun 2011, 13:51
Message fullrulez »06 Jun 2011, 13:56
Message petro86 »06 Jun 2011, 14:00
Message vitalik196 »06 Jun 2011, 14:06
Message doctorgeb »06 Jun 2011, 14:18
Message petro86 »06 Jun 2011, 14:59
Message morzan »06 Jun 2011, 15:04
Message vitalik196 »06 Jun 2011, 15:07
Message petro86 »06 June 2011, 15:13
Message vitalik196 »06 June 2011, 15:22
Message doctorgeb »06 June 2011, 15:26
petro86, if the thread in the hub itself is torn off, then there is no point in picking it with a tap.
the engagement surfaces in the threaded connection will still be insufficient to maintain the tightening force. each turn of the thread, working for shear, holds a certain fraction of the tightening force, if these surfaces are somehow reduced, then the bolt will hold less force, and at one not very beautiful moment on the turn there will be such a stress in the bolt from the wheel that the bolt will pop out from the seat like a bullet.
and if there are two such underbolts, then the remaining force from the wheel is transferred only to 2 operable bolts (with the threads not yet stripped off), but the problem is that these bolts are designed for a force 2 times less than what actually falls on (with two inoperative bolts) , as a result, such bolts fail much faster, and the wheel begins to live its own life somewhere in front, in the opposite lane, or on the side of the road (depending on which side it is)
still have a desire to work as a tap or what?
Message toha55 »06 June 2011, 15:27
Message Super0 »06 June 2011, 16:30
Message RasselSH »06 June 2011, 16:50
Message toha55 »06 Jun 2011, 16:52
Message The male »06 Jun 2011, 16:55
Message R82 »06 Jun 2011, 17:03
a-aa 
Swords, turner. laughed for twenty minutes, could not stop
Message Marvel_0703 »06 Jun 2011, 17:06
Message Renault »06 Jun 2011, 17:10
doctorgeb wrote: petro86, if the thread in the hub itself is already torn off, then there is no point in picking with a tap.
the engagement surfaces in the threaded connection will still be insufficient to maintain the tightening force. each turn of the thread, working for shear, holds a certain fraction of the tightening force, if these surfaces are somehow reduced, then the bolt will hold less force, and at one not very beautiful moment on the turn there will be such a stress in the bolt from the wheel that the bolt will pop out from the seat like a bullet.
and if there are two such underbolts, then the remaining force from the wheel is transferred only to 2 operable bolts (with the threads not yet stripped off), but the problem is that these bolts are designed for a force 2 times less than what actually falls on (with two inoperative bolts) , as a result, such bolts fail much faster, and the wheel begins to live its own life somewhere in front, in the opposite lane, or on the side of the road (depending on which side it is)
still have a desire to work as a tap or what?
+ 1, that's right. Even if you fix the broken thread, it will still have the strength of such a restored connection, just for the sake of appearance.
In addition to the above methods, you can try to weld a hole with damaged threads, drill and cut a new one, but there will be additional difficulties with centering the hole and no one will vouch for the strength and porosity of the welded steel. The best option is to replace the hub.
If one of the bolts securing the front wheel to the hub began to turn, the thread in it fell off. What to do in this case and how to restore the thread of the holes?
To get out of the position, you can, without drilling out the remnants of the thread, insert a bolt with a length of 50 mm from the back of the hub with a slight interference. with M12 × 1.25 thread. The length of the threaded part is 30 mm. The bolt keeps the brake disc from turning on one side, and the hub on the other.
If you have a welding machine, it is better to “grab” the bolt from the reverse side by welding, and to avoid imbalance, you can cut off the rest (bolt head) with a grinder. This solution is suitable for both the hub and the axle shaft.
One of the bolt faces is grinded with a file under the hub profile, as shown in the figure.
Installing a bolt in a threaded connection
This temporary thread repair can last for quite some time. But we advise you not to tempt fate and, at the first opportunity, replace the hub with a new one, since it is relatively inexpensive (for VAZ 2101-2107 about 400 rubles).
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ainurich 20 Oct 2009
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Murashov Oct 20, 2009
In the front hub, the thread for the wheel bolts has been torn off. Maybe it is possible to do without replacing the hub itself? I tried to put a bolt for alloy wheels, but it also does not hold. Advise if there is any way. Thank you in advance!
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MASTER64 20 Oct 2009
Replacing the flange, of course, is more desirable, but it seems like it is possible to repair it.
I think that if you remove the disc, then it will be possible to weld on the back of the flange something like a cage nut. Just do not weld it, but rather grab it without heating the flange very much. There seems to be enough space, but I don’t remember exactly, somehow I didn’t pay attention.
IT IS FORBIDDEN. If one thread is torn off, then it's not scary, but if the rest are weakened too, only a replacement, and it is inexpensive!
Replacing the flange, of course, is more desirable, but it seems like it is possible to repair it.
I think that if you remove the disc, then it will be possible to weld on the back of the flange something like a cage nut. Just do not weld it, but rather grab it without heating the flange very much. There seems to be enough space, but I don’t remember exactly, somehow I didn’t pay attention.
I think if welded to one there will be imbalance of the hub. Change disk unambiguously
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godson 03 Nov 2009
In the front hub, the thread for the wheel bolts has been torn off. Maybe it is possible to do without replacing the hub itself? I tried to put a bolt for alloy wheels, but it also does not hold. Advise if there is any way. Thank you in advance!
Well, what are you heating Moscow? Here's the problem. Trouble-trouble-chagrin! (As the brownie Kuzka said) 🙂 GY. If the metal has not been ripped out by the thread to death, then for * B * n there Nivovsky hub pins (before buying the pins, carefully measure their required height) - the main thing is that their roll-toothed gear does not rotate inside the hole there. Well, secure the wheel with nuts, not bolts 🙂 But then when you appreciate all the convenience (you can't catch holes) - you will say THANKS 🙂
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nonsense. taps usually go three per thread. right now, not willing to study it is possible for some diameters and two. any turner will grind two times at a time. you cut a thread in the brake disc and drive the screwdriver, you can slightly remove the phase in the brake disc and scald the screwdriver
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nonsense. taps usually go three per thread. right now, not willing to study it is possible for some diameters and two.
any turner will grind two times at a time. you cut a thread in the brake disc and drive the screwdriver, you can slightly remove the phase in the brake disc and scald the screwdriver
I've been to Yegoryevsk a couple of times, so I can't say anything, but I haven't met turners at every step, and not everyone has a garage with a welding machine.
In general, the proposal is striking in its simplicity - to order a futorka in a size that a technically inexperienced person would not be able to say, drill a hole, cut a thread for a futorka, screw it in and weld it on. At the same time, not paying attention to the ABS sensor ring in three centimeters, as well as to the change in the properties of the metal in the place where the foot is welded. I'm not talking about how long it may take, and it would be nice to announce the budget, well, for comparison. By the way, I recently saw an inverted wad on the drive because of a cracked rear brake disc. Anyone else - but it's easier for me to put a normal screwdriver than to collective farm a futorka (by the way, I dealt with them and vowed to continue).
As for the tap - before saying that it is nonsense, you can google it - I personally have not seen such taps in use.
In general, I just shared my experience - then it’s a matter of personal choice. But first, I advise you to try to find a normal turner in Moscow time and calculate the time spent on the process you described - I think not everyone on the forum works in the ATP or in a similar production.
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I decided to change the tires for the winter, and when unscrewing the bolts, one of them completely “licked” the thread in the hub. Is it possible to repair or replace somewhere? Well, and a passing question - what to do with the bolts so that they can then be unscrewed normally (I tightened them in the spring with my hands, with a regular key, how could they be so tightened ..)
In a similar situation, I preferred to replace the hub (left front wheel, VAZ21099). You did not indicate the car. I was told that you can cut the thread and put another bolt, but I preferred to go this way. Scary!
Audi 100 car, 5-bolt wheels, steel.
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I decided to change the tires for the winter, and when unscrewing the bolts, one of them completely “licked” the thread in the hub. Is it possible to repair or replace somewhere? Well, and a passing question - what to do with the bolts so that they can then be unscrewed normally (I tightened them in the spring with my hands, with a regular key, how could they be so tightened ..)
We recently asked the mechanics from the “seagull” who are building combat bubaras in a city car to carry out a similar operation, to which we were told that we had come to the wrong address - they are auto mechanics, not killers.
PS: I would change the hub
You have a 14x1.5 bolt there.If the thread does not go through, then you can re-grind on, for example, the 16th bolt under the same head by 17.
that change the hub, it costs money there antlers - before 200 UAH. back 40 UAH.
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You have a 14x1.5 bolt there.If the thread does not go through, then you can re-grind on, for example, the 16th bolt under the same head by 17.
How dangerous is such an operation?
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that change the hub, it costs money there antlers - before 200 UAH. back 40 UAH.
It's not about the money. This is to go somewhere to look, then to disassemble the entire rear rack (or not?). In general, you need to kill the day. And to cut a new one, as I understand it - it came, they removed the wheel, cut it, put it on, and left. The truth is somehow dumb, although no one really explained what cutting a new thread is fraught with. I ride on four bolts for a couple of days, today I checked - everything is screwed up well
In response to:
In response to:
that change the hub, it costs money there antlers - before 200 UAH. back 40 UAH.
It's not about the money. This is to go somewhere to look, then to disassemble the entire rear rack (or not?).In general, you need to kill the day. And to cut a new one, as I understand it - it came, they removed the wheel, cut it, put it on, and left. The truth is somehow dumb, although no one really explained what cutting a new thread is fraught with. I ride on four bolts for a couple of days, today I checked - everything is tightened well
4 bolts. it's still okay. I drove for 2! YEAR! Once, the tire fitters, woodpeckers broke the bolts (the hat was folded) and closed the cap. last year came to pereobuvatsya for the winter, the installer called, showed, he turned white with a batya! and only he put the key on the bolt - and HOP! there was only one bolt! It was an akhtung! the road and in the morning Uncle Vasya drills them. all is well that ends well. and we drove not weak. oh how weak. So now well [*****], I always check all the bolts and stand above my heart in the service!
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Video (click to play). |
But in essence, what is dumb? There is a thread, so what is the other size? By the way, maybe, as already said, a banal running with a sword will help!
