DIY repair of rubber harness trailer suspension

Often buyers ask themselves the question of how the leaf spring suspension differs from the rubber-wired (torsion bar), and the trailer with which suspension to choose? First, let's consider the advantages of these two most popular types of suspension for light trailers, trailer springs.

Springs + shock absorbers

Rubber-harness

Softness of the stroke
Higher stability of the trailer on bumps
Dependent: higher "margin of safety"
Repairable even in the field

Not dependent
More ground clearance
Lower trailer loading height
Maintenance free
Cheap
Easy to install
On the Russian market, there is only a suspension designed specifically for trailers.

Now let's look at the disadvantages.

Rubber-harness

Less ground clearance
Higher loading height of the trailer
Requires serviceable (less resource + requires lubrication of friction points)
Specialized leaf spring suspension is more expensive than rubber-harness
More difficult to mount / dismantle
The widespread use of springs that are not intended for light trailers (from Gazelle, Moskvich, etc.): "dangles and jumps" or sags and rubs the wheels with the fenders

Rigid travel, vertical buildup ("jitter" on the towbar)
Less "safety margin"
Not repairable: in case of a breakdown on the road, the trailer is not transportable, a new axle is required

For obvious reasons, there are not many people who want to buy a trailer with a rubber-harness suspension, but some models with a spring suspension are simply not produced. Separately, we emphasize that the springs are different for the springs and, most importantly, the number of sheets in the springs is not at all. Only high-quality springs of the German company Al-ko are installed on the MZSA and Stalker trailers. Their advantages over other springs:

1. Lower loading height and lower range.
2. Short stroke.
3. Special design of the spring. Because an empty trailer weighs about 250 kg, and a fully loaded 750 kg (i.e. a load range of 300%), the spring is designed in such a way that an empty trailer uses only one spring, and a loaded trailer uses all 4 (or more). This ensures optimum ride comfort with a trailer, whatever the load.

Road tests: rubber-harness and leaf spring suspension.

on the TONAR trailer, such a suspension, or rather Hmmmmm, there is a torsion bar of 3 harnesses (in the beam)

it all depends on how much you want to transport by weight cargo,

the stroke of such pendants is small

I have two trailers, one mzsa 750 kg second self-propelled gun 1500 kg both rubber-jute mzsa 3 harnesses in the suspension of a self-propelled gun 4 the more harnesses the more carrying capacity but less stroke and more rigidity.

MZSA trailer has a carrying capacity of 500 kg, I actually loaded it in 1500 kg, I drove a lot of sand and gravel, and at least he had to fuck. trailer by the way as much as 1993 release.

I personally like this suspension, neither maintenance nor lubrication does not require. the truth is, without a load, the trailer jumps strongly along the road

ALIVE there is also one axis but no amov

spring in practice is better and more reliable

ALIVE there is also one axis but no amov

spring in practice is better and more reliable

the spring driving performance is better.
at the expense of more reliable like this. springs that break, spring bushings that wear out, shock absorbers are also not eternal.
in rubber-jute three or four rubber bands in a tube that work on crushing and all this is reliable. mine with 93 g transported so much that some trucks will envy what. only bearings on the hubs changed and that's it.

and the axle there is not one but two axle shafts in one pipe. ZHIV suspension was correctly named "semi-independent"

I have a trailer with 4 rubber bands in the tube, where the axle of the "swing" of the wheel is inserted.
The trailer capacity is 750 kg, but the suspension is shit! the manufacturer went to cut costs. There is nothing metallic, no shock absorbers.
Therefore, the articulation of the wheel is scanty, the overload can turn the axle out and the trailer will be one-sided. An empty trailer jumps along the road like a bastard!

Three years later, the rubber bands cracked and the trailer “sagged”. Frost did his job.
In total, the trailer is 8 years old, for the last five years I have been using it only for garbage disposal at the landfill. When the plywood at the bottom is completely matched, I will remake it into springs from Moskvich. I will put the axle from VW Golf-2. Back. It is possible and from something else, such as the eight, just from the Golf I was given free of charge.
———
My conclusion: Rubber-harness torsion bars on the trailer - shit!
sorry for my french.

Tatarstan Fishing and Hunting Forum

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Sergiy, I also have a rubber burner

Rides just like that
I left the gas tank in the boat once, almost jumped out of the hose (unfastened).

I pull all the things out of the boat when I go to a dalny, a stronger boat and a motor, and alga, let it ride

It also helps to lower the wheels and throw a couple of sandbags (loaded does not jump).

But stick together

I watch how they are tormented with springs , let it jump better

Everyone knows the advantages and disadvantages of a rubber-harness trailer suspension. With a good load of the boat on the boat, there are no special problems. But during one-day fishing trips, there are no camping things, and the underloaded trailer starts to jump on bumps, although at high speed and a flat road it stands like a glove. In the AL-KO catalog on page 78, I found accessories for installing shock absorbers.
Link.
It would be interesting to know the opinion of members of the forum - will the installation of shock absorbers solve the problem? Has anyone already done something similar?

UNCLE VASY has nothing jumping, considers this suspension to be the height of engineering thought. I tried 30 km on asphalt, immediately returned it to the sellers, paid extra THREE, took the spring ALKO and I'm not overjoyed

And I have been skating for 6 years. The mileage is more than 17 thousand - and there are no questions about the suspension.

I personally saw some kind of import trailer on it in the parking lot with a rubber burner and the factory shock absorbers, I think it's great, if I really need to call the owner, I will find out whether I traveled far and how?

On MZSA trailers of large carrying capacity (axle load 1300 kg) there are small shock absorbers. Probably, it is not for nothing that they are not placed on an axis with a lower g / p.

Yes, not so much jumping. I scored. So far, only about 5 thousand have traveled. Let's see further. And it stands on the road really well.
P.S. It seems to me that the suspension travel is too small for the normal operation of the shock absorber.

The shock absorbers on the torsion axles Alco and Knot will not solve anything, because. their hub travel relative to the axis itself is very small (the consequences of a primitive design). On Pajero Sport and other imported vehicles, where the torsion bar is paired with a shock absorber, the design and price of the torsion bar is completely different.

it would be necessary to distinguish - "the penis from the handle of the shovel."
in the picture I showed Slip - Trailer (popularly - a cart)
for transporting a boat over short distances (from 100m to several km, OFF public roads).

The softest trailer is springs and shock absorbers, the suspension travel for the Russian Federation is preferably 100-150 mm. - 20-30%

In order for a trailer with a rubber-harness suspension not to jump underloaded or empty, for a start, it is necessary to reduce the pressure in the wheels, because there the pressure is recommended for full load.
As an example, I have 3.2at. on biaxial Tonar.

Uncle Vasya to the bathhouse: how aggressive you are!
The forum does not exist for insulting each other. You piled a snowmobile on this bespontovoy cart, people can take this as a guide to action and, following your example, will begin to sculpt the same.And there and on public roads, these collective farm products will appear.

Have you forgotten how fast you can move if you have a trailer ?!

With a trailer-70, without a trailer 90 on the highway, in the city 60.
Are there many such chauffeurs?

a snowmobile - on a Trailer - MZSA, the trailer is more than 10 years old. used - for Work.
a homemade body is installed on it, the weight does not exceed the permitted one, for driving on asphalt it is normal.
On the ground - the lights are removed, the permeability is limited by the clearance of the beam.
If the mass is less than half of the permitted weight, you can lower the wheels.
Nothing is perfect - it doesn't exist.

I'll show you the slip-trailer in the evening.
(if we cook today)

why are you so hovering that he is jumping?
Well, he jumps and jumps, well, figs with him, tie the boat well and business then, the main thing is that the boat does not jump. The boat then flies straight after the wheelbarrow 🙂 Well, sometimes it flies well on koldoyobin, but it’s like you need to go quieter, it usually helps.

It's very interesting with lanterns. Quick-detachable? I am always afraid to burn the wiring after pulling out the boat, usually right on the road, you will not dry it.

> With a trailer-70, without a trailer 90 on the highway, in the city 60.
> Are there many of these drivers?
In-in 70 with a trailer. I have a trailer for MSZA 81 ..- D. It has Strelka and Yama 40 with trim. Up to 90 on the asphalt is quite good. Galloping goes unnoticed.

Greetings to the participants.
I want to ask a couple of modest questions. I bought a MZSA 81E trailer for transporting a floating craft.
On the plate of the beam it is written that the axle is designed for 900 kg.
The boat weighs 700 kg, after repair and alteration I think it will weigh 800-850 kg.
Who carries such loads, do trailers tolerate?
How does anyone connect the electrical connector after pulling the trailer out of the water? Immediately or even dry time.
I looked at the design of the lanterns, I can not decide whether to seal them or, on the contrary, make holes at the bottom to quickly remove water.

Quoted1>> Whoever connects the electrical connector after pulling the trailer out of
> water? Immediately or even dry time.
> I looked at the design of the lanterns, I can not decide, either
> seal or vice versa make holes at the bottom for quick
> water removal.
Before entering the water, I disconnect the connector from the car. I go into the water, lower the boat, then go out. After pokatushek I load in the same way. I pull out the trailer so that it stands at an angle for about 5 minutes, everything flows down while I fix the boat, I put everything in the trunk. And then I turn on the electrician and the food on an un-started car.

Vitaliy86 wrote:
I bought a trailer MZSA 81E
> for transportation of a floating craft.
> On the plate of the beam it is written that the axle is designed for 900 kg.
> The boat weighs 700 kg, after repair and alteration I think it will
> weighing 800-850 kg.
> Who carries such loads, do trailers tolerate?

Too much for this trailer. The boat is 800, and the trailer itself is 250 - the axle is overloaded. I have been dragging on such a K2M for 3 years, I tried not to load more than 600kg.

Vitaliy86 wrote:
Trailer MZSA 81771E. )
According to the passport, its carrying capacity is 530kg. There will be almost double overload - you need it.

In the passport, the carrying capacity is written for GAYS - so that the gross weight for 750 kg does not pass

In the passport, the carrying capacity is written for GAYS - so that the gross weight for 750 kg does not pass
————————————–
And for a funeral home.

SERGEY SIBERIA wrote:
> In the passport, the carrying capacity is written for GAYS

And for real users, does it make up? Announce - it is very necessary. Apparently very secret data, tk. did not find it anywhere. Maybe I shouldn't sell my dashka, but load it in a ton and not take a steam bath?

Guys, on the lanterns, the issue is simply being resolved. Removable panel plus extra. the connector is the same as on the trailer. Everything has been working for more than one year.

if not a removable panel, then it is better to drill holes in the lanterns, preferably two or more in diameter, I made a 10 mm drill, everything merges and ventilates perfectly, especially on the move, I made holes in front of the lanterns and during the season nothing burned out and did not rust, I smeared everything contacts in lamps lithol.(both feet and turns and dimensions are on fire.) Before wintering, I once again smeared everything inside.
before that, I sealed it and still, when leaving the water, a full lantern of water.

I also decided to make removable lights, install a second outlet on the towbar so that stationary and removable ones can be connected in parallel, and any of them separately. True, he left the number under his native lanterns. But you can move it to removable ones very quickly. I think that I will definitely use the factory lights at night, and during the day there are enough removable ones (since the room is not illuminated on them).

As for shock absorbers, in my opinion, they are not needed on a rubber-harness suspension with low travel. But to turn the axle in order to make the trailer itself (and the boat with it) lower, there is a desire. The ground clearance will decrease slightly. But I think it is worth it to reduce the depth of the trailer paddock into the water. In order to flip the axis, you need to cut out the strips into which it enters with a grinder. Flip the axle, flip the strips and weld again. Has anyone done this? And is there any point in doing?

Thanks to everyone who answered. For some reason, the discussion gradually boiled down to lanterns. Although the question was different. Having rummaged on the Internet, I realized that the shock absorbers on this suspension are relevant only under heavy load (specified in the TX prcepa). I have a gross weight of 280-350 kg. at max 550kg. But “the bad head haunts” 🙂 and in the spring I will put them on the trailer, and at the end of the next season I will unsubscribe.

Try to put on a motorcycle "Ural". They are short-stroke, small in size, easy to install, should be cheaper.

We still need to look for the relatives of the Uralskys! We sell products from China 1,500 pairs, they shine like a samovar, but they are empty inside, they do not hold

Good day to all! You probably noticed that when studying the MZSA trailers, Trailer and various other designs, I often focused on what kind of suspension is installed on this or that model. But it turned out that I did not take the time to consider the structures themselves for the trailer. Therefore, today the situation will be corrected.

We have a rubber-harness suspension under consideration. Such an axis has its pluses and minuses, features of work, device and design. Whether to buy it or not is a moot point. To begin with, I propose to find out what it is, how it works, how it differs from a spring one.

Let me also remind you that the rubber-harness suspension (RZHP) is also called torsion bar. Therefore, if you see one or the other concept, they mean the same design option.

Often people are interested in what is better, rubber-wired or leaf spring suspension from the point of view of its installation on a trailer. To begin with, I have already considered the spring suspension. Therefore, you can read about it in the previous materials.

All light trailer axles offered on the market are divided into 2 types:

• torsion (rubber-harness);
• spring.

RZhP consists of a hexagonal shaped tube. Inside it is another pipe, but smaller. This is necessary in order to place special rubber bands with high elasticity values ​​between the metal elements, that is, pipes.

Due to this design, the inner tube does not rotate. The interior of the structure is directly connected to the levers to which the wheels of the car trailer are attached.

Since in the rubber-harness suspension all the moving components are hidden inside, this implies that there is no need for maintenance of the device as it is used.

The service life of such solutions is quite long, which makes it possible to count on long-term and trouble-free operation. But what if repairs are needed? In the event of a breakdown, you are essentially left without a suspension. Therefore, questions arise regarding the further operation of such a trailer.

In principle, you can fix the situation yourself.But it is better to contact a special trailer service. There you will be provided with qualified assistance in case of serious breakdowns.

I have already told you about the construction. Despite the protection against cranking in the RHP due to harnesses, certain movements occur there. This allows for shock absorption on uneven surfaces and creates a fairly smooth ride for the vehicle.

The smoothness of the movement largely depends on the profile of the pipe. Previously, square sections were used, where 4 bundles were located. This suspension was energy intensive, but very stiff.

Therefore, manufacturers gradually switched to hexagonal versions. The stiffness indicators dropped significantly, but this did not play a cruel joke with the softness of the stroke. Trailers stopped jumping on bumps, like abnormal ones, when moving empty without load.

By understanding how the suspension works, you can roughly estimate future operating conditions. If you are going to regularly drive a car with a caravan, transport some things without exceeding the maximum permissible load, there should be no problems with a rubber-harness suspension.

But there is always room for advantages and disadvantages. Let's talk about them further. In the meantime, you can watch interesting photos and videos that reveal the essence of the rubber-harness suspension and its appearance.

If we talk about the strengths and weaknesses that the rubber-harness device possesses, then very interesting and important details creep out here.

When choosing a domestic or imported trailer for your car, carefully weigh the pros and cons regarding the type of suspension.

For example, the spring options require reinforcement, therefore, usually, in addition to the spring sheets, shock absorbers are also installed. In the case of the rubber-harness version, this is not required. This is not an automotive spring suspension that is always under load. Sometimes you have to drive with an empty trailer, which reveals the main disadvantage of the springs.

If we talk about RGP, then here I have highlighted the following strengths:

• The design is independent, resistant to various loads that do not exceed the manufacturer's standards;
• Such suspensions provide a more impressive ground clearance for the trailer;
• Trailers with such an axle usually have a lower loading height;
• Virtually no service required. You just need to monitor the wheel bearings and change the lubricant there in time;
• Compared with springs, rubber with harnesses is cheaper, which allows you to save your budget;
• Doesn't require any special skills during installation. Reviews clearly prove that the replacement is easy to do with your own hands. You just need to know how to do it;
• This is a suspension variant specially designed for car trailers.

But do not rush to draw conclusions and buy yourself a new harness suspension for your Krepysh trailer, Trailer 82944C, Athletic or another model.

First, examine the disadvantages that are characteristic of the rubber-harness type axles. Of the objective disadvantages, the following are worth highlighting:

• The trailer travel is stiffer and shorter than that of a spring structure;
• There is a so-called vertical buildup, when there is a tremor effect on the towbar;
• The safety margin of RZhP is less;
• Such devices are afraid of overload. If the trailer is loaded above the established norm, the probability of the lever breakage increases;
• If the suspension breaks on the way, the trailer becomes unmanageable. You need to call a tow truck. A quick repair is not possible here.

If you decide to opt for the rubber-harness version, choose exclusively high-quality spare parts. Al-Ko components are showing themselves well.

Everywhere there are strengths and weaknesses. Therefore, when choosing a suspension for your trailer, focus more on the conditions in which the vehicle will be used most of the time. The competent choice of spare parts for a light trailer plays a key role in maintaining and extending the life of the structure.

Do not overload the vehicle, adhere to the rules for transporting a trailer, observe the recommended speed limit and service all structural elements on time. This way you can guarantee yourself trouble-free and long-term operation of your trailed wheeled vehicle for transporting goods.

Thank you all for your attention! Subscribe, leave your comments, ask questions and wait for new interesting materials!