DIY rubber suspension repair

The copyright holder of the text and graphic materials published on the forum is Clippu Net.

The entire content of the forum may not be reproduced and / or redistributed in any form, except with the permission of Clippu Net.

Forum on car audio and home speaker systems. Information portal for those whose life is closely related to quality music.

Useful tips, examples of car and home audio systems installations. Video libraries and photo albums with thematic content. Partnership programs. Bulletin board.

The speaker suspension is an element that often fails. Suspensions for different kinds of speakers are made in different sizes, it all depends on the diameter of the diffuser and the model of the speaker system.

The reason for the failure of the gimbal is most often a temporary factor. The suspension is an element that wears out quite strongly when the diffuser moves; it takes on the role of a kind of shock absorber that protects the diffuser from sudden vibrations and sound shocks.

More often than not, repairing a speaker suspension is not as effective as replacing it. However, replacing the suspension is a job that is best not done on your own, but put into the hands of a master. Although at first glance, replacing the gimbal is a simple matter, there are still a number of features that must be taken into account for the ideal future operation of the speaker.

Dismantling the old suspension must be done using a special reagent. The fact is that pieces of the old suspension remain on the speaker and diffuser. Removal of this material must be done one hundred percent. In case of the remainder of small pieces of the old suspension, the installation of the new suspension cannot be done with one hundred percent abutment, and when vibrating at high volume, the speaker will emit a rattle and wheeze. One hundred percent stripping is one of the main steps in gimbal repair and replacement.

When starting gluing, make sure that all parts to be glued are cleaned, free from grease and are exactly sized to each other. Folding the speaker and cone surround and inspecting it from all angles is a simple procedure that will guarantee the quality of work in the future. It is quite simple to glue the suspension; everyone who has used superglue at least once in their life will cope with this procedure. But you cannot overdo it with glue, the filling should be one hundred percent, but should not be licked over the edges of the suspension. Before applying, you need to read the instructions for the correct application of the glue, do not allow the suspension to be glued with old glue, the best option is to buy a fresh tube of glue for gluing the suspension.

In order to do the work correctly, you need not only to prepare the base well and buy new glue, you also need to know the gluing procedure. The first thing to do is to glue the suspension to the cone, and only then to the speaker.

Repairing speaker brackets without replacing them is usually a simple revision.

• Survey of the suspension, identification of defects
• Cleaning the junction points (if there is a separation of the suspension from the speaker)
• Filling the tear-off points with glue (you can use a syringe)

The most common suspension defects - this is a separation from the speaker or diffuser, just this problem can be corrected with your own hands. But the problem of wiping and wear of the gimbal, which is practically impossible to solve without replacing the gimbal. The fact is that the materials from which the suspension is made are quite elastic and work well in tension and compression, being elastic and flexible.But their durability is one of the biggest disadvantages of acoustic suspensions. Over time, they simply wear off and crumble like dust.

The choice of a speaker suspension depends on the speaker brand and its diameter. Unfortunately, some mounts for old or "exotic speakers" are hard to find. Our craftsmen can repair the old suspension, or, if this is not possible, they will be able to pick up and find suspensions from the manufacturer, which are rarely found on sale. We know how to repair a surround in any speaker system.

Even such a seemingly simple matter requires certain skills and abilities. The sound quality of the entire speaker system depends on how carefully and patiently the work of repairing the suspension or replacing it will be done.

Recently, a dynamic head was brought in for repair, its suspension was worn out. I decided to share a simple speaker repair technology with you, dear radio amateurs. So, everything is very simple, and for repairs we need to have a transparent adhesive tape and glue at hand (rubber, waterproof), if such glue is not available, we can do with universal waterproof. We take scotch tape and glue the holes and torn points of suspension with it.

After everything is already pasted over, make sure that there are no small holes left (so that there is no leakage of the poured glue). To give it a round shape, the tape should be slightly warmed up (you can use a lighter).

Next, we begin the restoration of the speaker suspension. We take the glue a moment and spread it on tape, try to do it as neatly and smoothly as possible. Make sure the glue has settled evenly. Then you need to leave the head to dry.

The glue dries out within 5-7 hours, and then turns into rubber. During the drying of the glue, the head must be placed on a flat surface so that the glue is evenly high throughout the suspension.

After a few hours, the dynamic head is ready for use. There is almost no difference between factory and home-made gimbals, the sound is clear and of high quality, by the way, the client really liked it, I hope you will like it too.

In general, for many years, I used almost this technology to replace the suspension of the dynamic heads of the C-30 radio technician. These heads have a fairly high-quality sound, feel great at low frequencies (though the midrange is lame), in a word, a good head for a powerful subwoofer, but there is one drawback - the foam suspension. At deep bass at full volume, it will last no more than 20 minutes. I used dozens of ways to replace the suspension of such a head, but none of them satisfied - either the wheezing, then the speaker becomes very hard, then the centering is disturbed and the varnish is peeled off the coil, but then I just decided to make a homemade suspension for such a head using the tape and glue method for a moment. The result was amazing! The head became the basis for a powerful car subwoofer and has been used in a friend's car for 3 years. The amplifier is powerful, assembled on the basis of the famous TDA7294, whose peak power can reach up to 110 watts! And imagine - the head can easily withstand this power, and the suspension does not break.

And here's another secret of homemade gimbal - don't spare the glue! The more it needs to be filled, the better, and if at home there are dynamic heads with a worn out suspension (such a defect occurs very often) then do not rush to throw them out, they will serve you faithfully for several years! For pre-fixing the tape, it is advisable to use super glue. This alteration will not affect the dynamics parameters, and the response to low frequencies will even be better than at the time when the speaker was released from the factory - AKA.

Save and read later -

To do this, you will need the following basic materials:

1. Suspension matching the dynamics

2. Any contact adhesive (Moment-1, 88)

3. Latex or diluted PVA

The hangers are supplied uncut both in terms of inner and outer dimensions. are used not only for the repair of 75 GDN. It must be cut to the desired diameter.

The cap is peeled off by soaking the glue with acetone. The place for the suspension glue is cleaned (on the diffuser and the holder). The diffuser is cut around the perimeter by 2 mm. Using strips of paper (plastic, etc.), the movable system is centered (the strips are placed in the gap between the coil and the core of the magnetic system). Contact glue is applied to the suspension, diffuser and holder (the suspension will initially lose its shape, then return to its original position). And, armed with dexterous hands, we evenly lower the suspension onto the diffuser and holder. It is better to slightly pull the diffuser out of the holder so that it first rests on the diffuser, and then together with it, glue it to the holder. We take out the strips, control the build quality and glue the cap. To do this, you can use PVA or 88 glue.

To facilitate the process, you can peel off the washer from the diffuser by soaking it with acetone (since the quality of the adhesives of our speakers leaves much to be desired), and unsolder the leads (or it is better to replace them altogether).

You can, of course, peel off the washer from the holder, using a solvent 88 glue - ethyl acetate.

Then, you need to put the suspension on a flat surface, spread the diffuser and suspension with glue, and then lower the diffuser with the coil onto it. Then we put 88 glue on the suspension, the holder, and the BF on the diffuser and the washer, center the movable system using the above method and glue it in.

It is considered good practice to pour latex (or diluted PVA) onto the place indicated in the figure.

It is also good to make holes under the hood for better ventilation.

Today, the number of good sound lovers who just throw out a wheezing speaker is not decreasing! At the same time, the cost of an analogue can be a tangible amount. I think the following will help anyone who has hands that grow out of the right place to fix the speaker.

Available - a miracle of design thought, once the former column S-30 (10AC-222), now serving as one of the autosubs. A week later, after the mutation, the patient began to show signs of the disease - he emitted extraneous sounds when working out the bass parts, and wheezed a little. It was decided to conduct an autopsy.

After autopsy, a diseased organ was removed from the patient's body - woofer 25GDN-1-4, 86 of release. The organ clearly needed operation - when gently pressing the diffuser, an extraneous sound was heard (very similar to a quiet click), and when ringing in various tones (generated by the nchtoner program), a clearly audible rattling-crackling sound was heard with a large diffuser stroke and when ultra-low (5-15Hz) ) frequencies. It was decided to trepan this organ

First, the patient's flexible lead wires were sealed off (from the side of the contact pads)

Then a solvent (646 or any other capable of dissolving glue, such as "Moment") was moistened with a syringe with a needle to the place where the dust cap and the diffuser were glued (along the perimeter).

... the place where the centering washer is glued to the diffuser (around the perimeter).

... and the place where the diffuser itself is glued to the basket of the diffuser holder (again around the perimeter)

In this state, the speaker was left for 15 minutes with periodic repetition of the previous three points (as the solvent was absorbed / evaporated)

Attention! When working with a solvent, you should observe safety measures - avoid contact with skin (work with rubber gloves!) And mucous membranes! Do not eat or smoke! Work in a well ventilated area!

When wetting, use a small amount of solvent, avoiding getting it on the gluing area of ​​the coil and the centering washer!

Depending on the type of solvent and air temperature, after 10-15 minutes of the above operations, using a sharp object, you can gently pry off the dust cap and remove it. The cap should either come off very easily or offer very little resistance. If you need to make significant effort, repeat the operations with wetting its edges with a solvent and waiting!

After peeling off the cap, carefully pour out the remaining solvent from the recess near the coil mandrel (by turning the patient over).

By this time, the centering washer has time to peel off. Carefully, without using any efforts, we separate it from the basket of the diffuser holder. if necessary, re-wet the gluing site with a solvent.

Wet the place where the diffuser is glued to the diffuser holder. We wait. We wet again and wait again. After about 10 minutes, you can try to peel off the diffuser. Ideally, it should detach from the diffuser holder (together with the coil and centering washer) without effort. But sometimes he needs a little help (the main thing is accuracy! Do not damage the rubber suspension.)

We clean the gluing points from the old glue and dry the disassembled speaker. We examine the disassembled patient for a malfunction. We look at the coil. If there are no scuffs and loose turns on it, we leave it alone. When peeling off the coil, glue it back with a thin layer of BF-2 glue.

We carefully inspect the place where the lead wires are attached to the diffuser. So it is - the patient has the most common malfunction in old speakers with a large diffuser travel. The lead wire at the attachment point is frayed / broken. What kind of contact can we talk about when everything hangs on a thread passed into the center of the wiring!

Gently bend back the copper antennae.

... and unsolder the lead wires.

We repeat the operation for the second wiring (even if he is still alive - the disease is easier to prevent!)

We cut the supply wiring at the break point.

... and we serve the resulting ends (of course - first we use rosin). Here you need to be careful! Use a small amount of low-melting solder - the solder is absorbed into the wire like a sponge!

Gently solder the wiring into place, bend the copper "antennae" and glue (Moment, BF-2) the place where the wiring adheres to the diffuser. Remember - you cannot solder the wires to the fastening "antennae"! Otherwise, how can the wiring be changed again in ten years?

We collect the speaker. We put the diffuser with the entire “household” into the diffuser holder, orienting the wiring to the places of their attachment. Then we check the correctness of the polarity - when connecting a 1.5V AA battery to the terminals, when connecting the “+” battery to the “+” of the speaker, the diffuser will “jump out” of the basket. We put the diffuser so that its “+” lead wiring is at the “+” mark on the speaker basket.

We solder the lead wires to the contact pads. Please note that the length of the wires has decreased by almost half a centimeter. Therefore, we solder them not as it was at the factory - to the hole in the plate, but with a minimum margin to maintain the length.

We center the diffuser in its basket using film (or thick paper), which we place in the gap between the core and the coil. The main rule is to place the centering evenly around the perimeter, to maintain the same gap. The amount (or thickness) of the centering should be such that when the diffuser is slightly protruding outward, it freely rests on it and does not fall inward. For the 25GDN-1-4 speaker, 4 pieces of film are enough for this, placed in pairs in front of each other. The length of the film should be such that it does not interfere if you put the speaker on the diffuser. For what - read below. We glue the diffuser.We use the indication for the glue used (I recommend "Moment", the main selection criterion, so that the glue can be subsequently dissolved with a solvent). I usually stick out the diffuser 1-1.5 cm up so that the centering washer does not touch the basket of the diffuser holder, then I apply a thin layer of glue on it and the basket with a brush, wait and firmly push the diffuser inside, additionally press the washer against the basket around the perimeter with my fingers ... Then I glue the diffuser (in the retracted state, without skewing).

We leave the speaker upside down for several hours under load (this is why our film should not protrude beyond the plane of the diffuser!).

Then we check the speaker for correct assembly. We take out the centering and carefully check the diffuser travel with our fingers. It should walk easily, without emitting overtones (there should be no touching of the coil and core!). We connect the speaker to the amplifier and send low-frequency tones of low volume to it. Extraneous sounds should be absent. In case of improper gluing (misalignment, etc.), the speaker must be glued (see above) and reassembled, being careful! With a high-quality assembly, we get 99% of a fully working speaker.

We glue the edge of the dust cap with glue, wait and carefully glue it to the diffuser. Here you need accuracy and precision - a crookedly glued cap does not affect the sound quality, but it spoils the speaker's appearance very much. when gluing, do not press on the center of the cap. It can bend from this and you will have to peel it off, straighten it, coat it from the inside with a thin layer of epoxy for strength and stick it back.

We wait until all parts are completely glued together (about a day) and put the finished speaker in its place. We enjoy the sound, which is no worse than that of the new factory analogous speaker.

That's it, now you can see that fixing a speaker is an easy task. The main thing is slowness and accuracy! So in an hour, you can slowly repair almost any woofer or midrange speaker of domestic or foreign production (for gluing imported speakers, a more powerful solvent is often required, such as acetone or toluene, carefully - they are poisonous.) Having a similar defect.

Yes, after the operation, the former patient got a second wind and the cheerful yellow subs continue to do their hard bass work:

To fix the problem, you don't even need to go to a workshop: in most cases, it is enough to disassemble the speaker, clean it from foreign objects and reassemble it, putting all the elements on good glue. You can independently replace the subwoofer suspension if a tear appears on it.

In this article we will tell you which glue is better to glue the speaker coil, which adhesive is ideal for gluing suspensions, a diffuser, a centering washer, and terminals.

To repair the speaker, different types of glue are used in their composition and characteristics. Some are ideal for gluing the coil and wires to the cone, while others are used for attaching the suspension and speaker assembly.

Here is a list of adhesives that professional craftsmen use in their work:

SL glue for speaker assembly - universal one-component contact adhesive based on polychloroprene. Designed specifically for the assembly and repair of electrodynamic loudspeakers.

Forms a thin, high-strength, transparent adhesive seam. The glue sets within two hours, you can use the glued product in a day (complete drying time).

Experts recommend glueing the speaker diffuser with this glue. Glue SL is on sale in plastic containers with a volume of 100 ml, it costs about 500-600 rubles.

DKD glue is a modern one-component, low viscosity glue. Made on the basis of epoxy composition, intended for gluing the turns of the winding enamel wire when repairing a voice coil.

The glue is completely polymerized within 2-3 hours when heated with a building hair dryer to a temperature of 120 degrees. "DKD" has excellent adhesion to fiberglass, kapton and other materials from which the speaker coils are made.

Glue DKD is sold in plastic bottles with a volume of 50 ml, it costs about 400-500 rubles.

Express glue Akfix 705 is a universal two-component set for quick assembly of speakers. Consists of high viscosity cyanoacrylate adhesive (liquid gel) and an activator in the form of an aerosol.

It adheres perfectly to rubber and most types of plastics, therefore it is widely used for repairing speakers. Provides flawlessly high bond strength in minutes, no drips or spreads.

Akfix 705 is on sale in a set: 200 ml of activator + 50 g of glue, costs about 350 rubles.

Interbond glue is a viscous adhesive based on ethyl-2-cyanoacrylate. Two-component, sold with an aerosol activator.

Ideal for speaker assembly, such as: gluing a centering washer to a diffuser holder, gluing pigtails, gluing a coil.

Not recommended for use with metals. Interbond is on sale in a set: 100 ml of activator + 25 g of glue, costs about 200 rubles.

Replacing the surround on a subwoofer speaker is easy.

All you need to get the job done is:

• new suspension;
• construction hair dryer;
• sharp knife;
• thin flat screwdriver;
• solvent;
• glue;
• brush or cotton swab for applying glue

VIDEO INSTRUCTION

The order of work on the example of using one-component glue SL:

1. We dismantle the damaged suspension - we remove it from the basket (body), from the diffuser, remove the dust cap. To do this quickly and accurately, it is necessary to thoroughly warm up the glue seams with a construction hairdryer. Peel off old elements carefully so as not to damage the diffuser. A flat screwdriver is great for this.

1. Thoroughly clean the basket and diffuser from the remnants of old glue, degrease the gluing site with a solvent.

1. We center the diffuser so that it moves freely without touching the coil. You need to approach this moment responsibly, otherwise you will have to disassemble everything again and glue the speaker suspension again.

1. Apply with a brush or cotton swab a small layer of adhesive on the diffuser and on the suspension (the glue must be mixed well beforehand). The optimal thickness of the glue is 2-3 mm.

1. We make gluing: we maintain a technological pause so that the glue dries to a state of residual stickiness. We attach the suspension to the diffuser and evenly press the surfaces to be glued. Drying time of the glue in accordance with the instructions is 10-20 minutes. However, full strength is achieved only after a day. After that, you can test the speaker.

Mon 14 Jul 2014

Views: 6 867 Category: Do it yourself

Modern acoustics for a car is quite expensive, so motorists often have to use old domestic equipment in a car, in particular, we are talking about dynamic heads. Some types of such speakers (such as 50GDN / 70GDN / 100GDN, etc.) are quite a good option even for car subwoofers, they are designed for GOST watts, so that they cannot be burned with modern amplifiers.

The problem with using such speakers is that some of them used foam suspensions, which eventually deteriorated and must be replaced. Heads 50 and 70GDN are 10-inch and finding rubber mounts for them is quite problematic, so there are several alternative solutions for repairing these speakers.

If the suspension is damaged in places, and not entirely, then first you need to glue the suspension particles, you can use any glue, including PVA, after the glue has dried, we get a somewhat solid suspension, but this repair is not completed ...

Silicone or silicone sealant - a kind of glue that, when dried, turns into a pretty good rubbery surface. It is not afraid of harsh working conditions, it is also resistant to weather changes, therefore, this is what we need as a suspension material.
Silicone has a very unpleasant odor, so the entire operation should be carried out in clean air, otherwise you can get poisoned!

For work, you will most likely need rubber gloves, but without them, work can be done to mind.
You just need to evenly smear the silicone around the entire perimeter of the suspension with your finger, so a layer of thick rubber forms on the foam suspension - that's what we need. Silicone dries up in 1-2 days, after drying, the unpleasant odor disappears.

As a result, if you work carefully, evenly seating the silicone, then the quality of our suspension will be on a par with the industrial one, except that industrial (even rubber) suspensions are afraid of temperature changes, and during long-term work they are deformed and break in places, in the case of our suspension, in total this will not happen, since silicone is highly resistant to both humidity and temperature extremes, and due to its flexibility and elasticity, it will not deform even after several years.

This method was suggested to me by a good friend - a fairly well-known person in this field, and it is thanks to his method that over 20 dynamic heads of the 50GDN type have been restored in this way and even now they work wonderfully!

The method is also suitable for heads with paper hangers of any diameter and power, so use it, you will not regret it!
Thank you all for your attention - Egor Alexandrov, Moscow.

Manufacturing and replacement of suspension for Kenwood * speakers at home. Kenwood Speaker Repair * Part Three.

Homemade suspension for speaker / subwoofer Repair of speakers / subwoofers Homemade sub, subwoofer, building.

In this video, I will show you ONLY the IDEA (and not instructions that can be applied exactly) how to make it.

How to repair a speaker. Terrible belt) Crumbled suspension Polyurethane suspension crumbled.

In this video, I demonstrate the simplest and cheapest method of making a subwoofer / din speaker cone.

If there are no suspensions on the speaker or they are damaged, this is not the end. A defective speaker can be repaired - a.

I love to crackle on this channel - SUSPENSIONS FROM CHINA - https://ali.ski/eGDuiv Group.

How to make a powerful subwoofer out of a simple midrange, how to properly replace the suspensions on a speaker, a homemade suspension.

In this video I will show you how to make a surround for a speaker. In my case, this is 4GD-35.

As you know, a car has a rather aggressive environment for any devices, constant exposure to water, temperature changes and vibration make high demands on any equipment used in a car.

However, manufacturers of equipment often deliberately go to the deterioration of the reliability of the design, to test products for a short period of time and subsequent refusal, so that the consumer is forced to go to the store again and buy equipment.

Factory speakers often have foam suspensions and their service life leaves much to be desired. Naturally, after they finally disappear, the vibration will gradually finish off the column itself. To increase the reliability of the suspensions, it is enough to replace the foam rubber with a rubber sponge, lightweight porous rubber with a thickness of 1-2 centimeters.

The only thing, but such a sponge is not easy to find, you have to run around the shops. Then everything is simple, we cut out the sponge along the width of the suspension and glue it to the usual glue-moment - it's done.

The rubber sponge will reliably protect the speaker and will last much longer than the foam one. After installation, it is advisable to test that the centering has not been knocked down, for normal operation of the column, it should not wheeze or rattle.

I love to crackle on this channel -

Speaker repair. Making and replacing the suspension with your own hands.

Hangers from china - ali.ski/eGDuiv

VK group -

Friends, I conducted an experiment on making a suspension for the speaker, which ended, in my opinion, successfully).
The speaker works without problems, watch the continuation of the video (part 2), I have demonstrated its work.

Guys, tell me, here is this silicone, if you bring it closer to your nose, does it smell like vinegar?

Didn't have time to consider - was it silicone or polyurethane?

well fuck it so fuck over the fuck). went and bought a new one.

In general, there is a speaker with such a mechanical defect. I want to try to restore.
Tell me what kind of glue is better to glue the suspension?

1. Take a look at the list of helpful topics in the first post.
2. Terms and the most popular patterns in posts are highlighted with quick tips and links to related articles in MagWikipedia and the Catalog.
3. It is not necessary to register to study the Forum - almost all profile content, including files, pictures and videos, is open to guests.

Why.
The dynamics is over, definitely.

but if the goal is just to experiment. Is there a plastic diffuser or something? it is not clear from the photo. you can try poxipol., or so as not to suffer for a long time with a glue thermal gun

)
suspension with glue moment or glue 88

If the diffuser is polypropylene. then alas nothing. you can of course experiment by disassembling the din and glue it on both sides through some kind of reinforcing fabric, he is not afraid of 2-3 grams of weight gain. but alas, the hardness of the diffuser is unlikely to be restored. and not for long.

Yes, the diffuser is made of plastic - I will glue it with the usual super glue based on cyanoacrylate, in my opinion, but how to glue the suspension? I would like him to remain “alive”, flexible and elastic in this place - as much as possible, of course. Maybe something silicone based.

Change the suspension. There are suspensions on the Mitinsky radio market, in Tsaritsino.

glue 88 is quite strong and elastic, it is a type of moment.

I will continue and immediately put it on the shelf for history. as an option, post number 3 is more reasonable (the explanation is that a mechanical method of connection is needed, which will ensure reliable contact of the parts and a possible shift will be excluded in the future), it is better to glue the suspension with rubber glue, it is more elastic. BF 88 is not quite suitable for this ... and you can also look at the glue here /#.UX-WZLXJR1A can and will help in solving more.,

Which one, this is a question for chemists in composition, you can smoke an Internet on the subtleties of such a thing - in the details of chemistry it is not strong in the components of the composition, and I understand a little about them, but I just use it in the necessary and necessary troubles if necessary.,

"Autoglue", glue-sealant (transparent) I use it with some frequency. what it is made of I won't say and no one will say)), but it's convenient to use ..

moderately viscous, does not leak. good adhesion. elasticity is debatable, how to write sensations, not soft enough or something.

I love to crackle on this channel -

Speaker repair. Making and replacing the suspension with your own hands.

Hangers from china - https://ali.ski/eGDuiv

VK group -

Friends, I conducted an experiment on making a suspension for the speaker, which ended, in my opinion, successfully).
The speaker works without problems, watch the continuation of the video (part 2), I have demonstrated its work.

Video Speaker repair. Making and replacing the suspension with your own hands. Part 1. of the Madman channel

Has the speaker wheezed or stopped sounding and want to bring it back to life? First, diagnostics. We remove the speaker, disconnect the wires from the terminals, having previously marked the polarity. In the future, we adhere to this rule: everything that we disassemble, draw or photograph will help a lot.

We check the winding resistance with the device. There are three options here.
1) Break.
2) Nominal resistance.
3) Reduced resistance.

Now the second check. We put the speaker on the magnet and gently move the diffuser up and down. If you hear a rustle or creak, or there is no movement, the speaker will have to be disassembled.

If there is no grinding, and the winding is open - you need to check the conductivity of the flexible wires from the terminals to the soldering of the winding. They are made of threads intertwined with copper veins that break over time. They can be replaced without disassembling the speaker with M.G. T.F.a suitable cross-section or a braid tape to remove excess solder.
We solder the wires so that they do not stretch when the diffuser moves and do not touch it. We glue the place of soldering with Moment glue.

If the speaker needs to be disassembled, disconnect the wires from the terminals, put the speaker on the magnet and with a swab dipped in acetone, soften the glue around the protective cap and remove it, prying it off with a non-sharp scalpel. In the same way, peel off the outer edge of the diffuser and the outer edge of the centering washer. Carefully pull the diffuser straight up without skewing.

I do not recommend unsticking the coil frame from the diffuser and centering washer, so as not to disturb the centering of the speaker.

To rewind, you need to assemble a simple device, the device of which is clear from the figure. The hardest part is the spool holder. To make it, you need to contact a turner. Mandrel length 100-150 mm, material - any metal.

We measure the inner diameter of the coil (x). The mandrel for the spool should have a diameter of x + 0.5 mm at one end and x-0.5 mm at the other end.
On the large end, we drill a 3.2 mm hole and cut an M4 thread for attaching the handle.
We drill a 6.5 mm through hole for the stud. The surface of the mandrel must be sanded.

Now you can start winding. We need alcohol-based glue, for example, BF-2 or BF-6, paper from the MBM capacitor, wire and a lot of patience.

We dilute the glue with alcohol. We pierce the centering washer with a needle, thread the winding wire and solder it to the flexible wire. We fix the wire at the soldering point and at the beginning of the winding by gluing pieces of paper.
If the coil frame is made of metal, we glue it with a layer of paper from the capacitor without overlapping layers. We wind the wire coil to coil, gluing it before winding and over it. Remove excess glue with your finger. We try to wind not tightly, but tightly.

On the first layer we glue the paper from the capacitor without overlapping layers and perform the same actions in reverse order. When the winding is ready and soldered to the terminals, you need to connect them to a 4-5 Volt power source with a current of 1-2 Amperes to dry. The winding will heat up to 50-60 degrees, while the glue will dry and harden, the coil will expand slightly. This will help to easily remove it from the mandrel.

We check the free play of the coil in the speaker gap and start assembling.
We need to align the coil exactly to the center. There are 2 ways to do this.
1) Place a film or X-ray film gasket in the gap.
2) Apply a small constant voltage of 2-3 Volts to the coil so that it is slightly pulled inward.

Apply a layer of Moment glue to the outer edge of the diffuser and the outer edge of the centering washer and lower the diffuser vertically downward without skewing and without radial displacement, press. You can turn the speaker over onto a flat table and while the glue dries, solder the wires to the terminals.

After the glue dries, remove the gasket and check the free play of the coil in the speaker gap.
If everything is in order, we glue the protective cap in place and enjoy the result!