DIY uaz 452 repair

In detail: do-it-yourself repair of the pk uaz 452 from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Removing the transfer case

We work together on a viewing ditch or a lift.

SEQUENCING
We drain the oil from the transfer case.

Removing the left and right floor pads
Disconnect the speedometer drive from the transfer case
Remove the front and rear propeller shafts

Using the "13" wrench, unscrew the two nuts securing the intake pipe clamp to the gearbox bracket.

Using the "12" wrench, unscrew the two bracket mounting bolts ...

Disconnect the lugs of the wires from the parking brake indicator switch.

Using two “19” keys, loosen the tightening of the switch adjusting nuts.

Remove the rubber buffer of the switch.

After unscrewing the nut, remove the switch.

Disconnect the adjusting fork from the parking brake lever and, by unscrewing two bolts, remove the brake lever along with the rods

Holding the eight bolts securing the cross member with a “17” wrench, turn off their nuts with the “19” head.

Using the "17" key, unscrew the two bolts securing the transfer case to the gearbox on the right side ...

... and with a 19 key, two nuts on the left side.

Tapping a hammer across a block of wood ..

… And pressing out with a mounting paddle, remove the transfer case.

Remove the spacer washer.

Install the transfer case in reverse order:
we replace the gasket, between the transfer case and the gearbox, applying a layer of sealant to the gasket.
We turn on the direct drive in the transfer case with a lever, directing the drive gear by hand through the hole in the crankcase.
For ease of installation:

with the key "12" we unscrew the four bolts of the switching mechanism.

Video (click to play).

Install the intermediate washer. Sealant "glue" the gasket to the gearbox.
Turning the parking brake drum, we put the transfer case on the studs and the secondary shaft of the gearbox. We bait the bolts and nuts of the transfer case. Tightening the bolts and nuts evenly, we achieve the pressing of the outer ring of the bearing into the socket of the transfer case and the tight fit of the units to each other.
Install the removed parts in reverse order.
Fill the transmission oil into the transfer case

The transfer case helps distribute engine torque to multiple drives at the same time.

You can do the repair of the UAZ handout box with your own hands, it is not as difficult as it seems at first glance, and besides, you will be able to save on paying for the services of a car service master.

Before starting repairs, of course, it is necessary to find out the cause of the malfunction.

There is a lot of noise in the transfer case. This can be the result of loosening the nuts that connect the transfer case to the transmission, or loosening the bolts on the bearing caps. The list of reasons includes wear of the bearings or gears themselves, poor-quality or unsuitable oil, or its low level.
Selection and gear shifting poorly. This is usually due to a binding of the clutch on the splines of the hub or front drive shafts. Or, alternatively, the gear selector is deformed.
The transmission shuts down spontaneously while the vehicle is in motion. Gear teeth may be worn out. Also, the shutdown can be affected by an increase in the gap in the spline connection or wear of the retainer parts.
Oil leaks. Often the problem is caused by wear or mechanical damage to the gaskets, loosening of the nuts on the cover, wear of the oil seals or o-rings of the actuator stems.

The solution to all these problems is either repair or replacement of faulty parts.In some cases, it will be enough just to tighten the nuts or add oil.

Transfer case repair takes place in several stages.

Removing and disassembling the box.
Troubleshooting.
Eliminate these faults by replacing the part or repairing it.
Collecting and placing the box in place.

To remove the box and disassemble the distribution box for the UAZ 469, you need to proceed as follows:

drive the car into the inspection pit;
lower the parking brake lever, and put the gear levers and transfer cases in neutral;
then the casing and cladding are unscrewed one by one, the handles and covers are removed, all wires are disconnected.

Before you start disassembling the device, you must wash it and drain all the oil. For the convenience of parsing, it is better to use a special stand where the distributor can be fixed.

When disassembling the differential, it is advisable to note the relative position of the driven gear mounting bolts on its housing, so that later it will be easier to put everything into place.

Before inspection, all parts must be brushed and rinsed.

The UAZ distribution box is assembled in the reverse order to the one in which it was dismantled, and before installing the unit in place, check its operation at the stand. The function must be perfect, the assembly correct and it is important that the oil does not leak. The tests are carried out first in a higher gear, then in a smaller one.

Under load, they check the operation in the second mode, on the rest - without load. The serviceability of the differential is checked in the first mode, while gradually decelerating until it stops completely.

With proper repair and timely replacement of all faulty components of the transfer case, the UAZ will work without jamming, knocking and noise, and oil will not leak out!

UAZ-452 was originally created for the Soviet armed forces as a medical service vehicle, where in this connection it was dubbed the "pill" (the civilian nickname is "loaf").

So the design of mechanisms, including the transfer case, is simplified as much as possible.

During operation, the entire transmission system is unpretentious, which is confirmed by half a century of practice. Manufacturer's only recommendation: periodically check the oil level and check the fasteners.

In addition, if necessary, adjust the front links and subject the lever pivots to preventive lubrication. This mechanical unit, including bearings, does not require any more maintenance and adjustment.

The distribution box for UAZ-452 is the heart of the car's transmission. It transmits dynamic force to the front and rear axles and has 2 operating modes: direct and reduction (with a gear ratio of 1.94).

The latter contributes to the creation of more effective traction during overcoming off-road and terrain folds.

When assembling, the working gears of the transfer case are mounted taking into account the noise emitted during rotation. When, in the process of operation, a worn gear is replaced with a new one, an increased noise level often occurs in the box, which does not pose a danger and usually passes over time.

Repair signals can be:

Oil leak.
Increased noise and vibration.
Difficult switching from one position to another.
Spontaneous knocking out of the included operating mode.

Although often, troubleshooting is enough just to adjust the fasteners or lubricate problem areas and points. If this does not help, the car must be driven into the inspection pit or overpass, after which the technological operations must be carried out in strict sequence.

Repair stages:

dismantling and disassembling the box;
breakdown detection;
elimination of the causes of malfunctions (replacement or restoration of parts);
assembly, installation at a regular place, adjustment.

Both levers are located in the cab to the right of the driver. The upper one is designed for remote control of the front axle and is fixed in 2 positions - rear (when the drive is off) and front (when it is on).

The loaf's front axle is used only when driving in difficult conditions.No wonder the "torpedo" has a nameplate in front of the levers "Turn off the front axle when driving on dry hard roads!"

Bottom powers demultiplier (which is also called a divider in the car model). The fact is that in the UAZ, as in any off-road vehicle or off-road vehicle, gear shifting is provided not only in the gearbox, but also in the transfer case.

For the latter, there are 3 positions - rear (with low gear engaged), middle or neutral (in which the shaft is not connected), forward (with direct gear engaged).

The lowered step can only be used after changing to the front axle. It, in turn, cannot be turned off with a functioning lower stage.

Greetings, I watched the video of Vasily Kharchishin
and saw new videos for the repair of RK UAZ,
surprised by the introduction of bearings of the rear drive shaft
bridge. I would like to hear the opinions of experienced UAZ growers, really
is it possible to install the bearings in this place,
and how appropriate is it?

I did it about 10 years ago. In principle, everything is fine, but there are nuances with lubrication.

I went to the store and bought: both flanges, a speedometer cable, a fork for switching on the rear axle and a lowered row, and of the little things.

Started assembling the transfer case of the UAZ-452.

For the correct position of the fork, it was necessary to expand the stem a little. Ten degrees.

Further, all the shafts are collected on the cover. Well, at least that's what I do. It's more comfortable for me.

You can easily twist it. Check if the gears mesh correctly when shifting.

Another trick of the Ulyanovsk concern. I bought new original flanges. Image - DIY repair uaz 452

At the same time, the front axle drive flange along the neck is more or less polished. But they decided to pack the flange of the rear axle drive right after turning ?!

Well, okay there are risks after a passing cutter. But there the dog nicks! I'm shocked. At the enterprise, that there is absolutely no quality control department or what? Well, how can you put it on sale? The stuffing box will not live on such a surface for a week ...

I had to clamp the flange into a lathe, grind and polish by hand.

From above polished by me, from below by Ulyanovsk Krivoruk factory workers.

Yes, also pay attention to how crookedly turned the blank of the upper flange after casting. Balancing there and so on. Not. Have not heard ...

And here, by the way, is the old flange. I made a paint with a marker so that it could be seen where the gland journals work.

Here I think, and so everything is visible. As they say - NO COMMENT.

Next, the parking brake knot. Let me remind you that as such - it was not in working order.

Mine, clean, completely disassemble.

It is imperative to disassemble, clean and lubricate the parking brake spreading cylinder. It usually boils in the trash and does not dilute and mix poorly.

After cleaning, I clog its giblets with imported grease that is not washed out and resistant to aggressive environments. As a rule, it works for a long time and reliably.

And then, we collect the entire parking brake assembly.

Then the parking brake drum is thrown on, the pads are adjusted. Everything revolves in all switch positions and is assembled completely.

On this, the overhaul of the transfer case of the UAZ-452 can be considered complete.

I propose another way to finalize the transfer case (RK). He turned off the engine, and, since the RK was removed from the checkpoint, he decided to remake it (RK) into a "noiseless" one.

At first I wanted to grind off the teeth of the front axle engagement gear (PM), but it was embarrassing that, judging by the measurements, it was necessary to grind almost half the width of the teeth. And I, for example, go hunting, heavy off-road in the forests is not uncommon and the teeth of the PM gear, which are halved in width, will clearly not add reliability.

The idea that the PM gear can (or should) disengage completely was suggested to me by Andrey Malakhov (Ivanovo), for which many thanks to him. But it turned out - not so simple.

What need to do. I advise you to adhere to the sizes indicated in the photographs quite accurately. But it is still possible that it will have to be customized in place (the quality of the domestic auto industry).

It is natural to remove 🙂 and disassemble the RC. Everything is described in the "primer".

Cut off the tide on the intermediate shaft, against which (in our case) the gear wheel of the PM engagement rests.

As a result, we get a modified intermediate shaft.

Make another cut for the retainer ball on the front axle engagement fork rod (I did it with a grinder).

Cut off the "excess" metal on the front axle engagement leash.

It is MANDATORY to modify the front axle engagement rods and direct and underdrive engagement rods. Threads are required as the rods must not rotate around the axis. In the normal mechanism of the RK levers, this rotation is prevented by the shape of the leashes, and we have already "modified" one, as a result it has become shorter.

Lock the nuts on the rods well (tighten the threads), having previously assembled them together with the levers. As a result, we get a modified switching mechanism.

We collect everything in the same way, according to the "primer".

To make it clear what they did in the end:

Front axle fork position. The front end is included.

Front axle fork position. Front off, intermediate shaft rotates as usual.

Front axle fork position. The front end is off, the intermediate shaft will not rotate.

Front axle engagement gear position. Front end incl.

Front axle engagement gear position. Front off, intermediate shaft rotates as usual.

Front axle engagement gear position. The front end is off, the intermediate shaft will not rotate.

Pros and cons:
pros
1. We do not spoil the front axle engagement gear, which has a positive effect on reliability. In addition, the ends of the teeth of this gear are rounded for easier engagement with the front axle shaft.
2. If desired, you can refuse (for example, in winter) the modified switching circuit, simply by installing the standard mechanism of the RK levers.
3. Cutting metal on the intermediate shaft is much easier. Although the shaft is completely hardened, and one cutter was damaged (sealed off). Adding liquid to the cutting area solves the problem. Try to persuade the turner to cut the teeth on the hardened gear with a cutter 🙂 A certain number of them (cutters) may be required.
4. The lever for engaging the front axle has three positions. You can turn on the "front end" at speed with proper skill (but I do not recommend it).

Minuses
1. The method is possibly more complicated (more details).
2. You still cannot do without turning work.
3. From the tool it would be nice to have an angle grinder (grinder).
4. It seems to me that it is still worth pouring more oil into the RK and the gearbox (so that it reaches the gear of the rear axle drive shaft).

P. S. Many thanks to friends and colleagues for their help in repeatedly rolling the UAZ from garage to garage, and even uphill.

UAZ cars (loaf) have the most capacious body. The body of the machine is made of durable material. The vehicle is equipped with security systems, a robust power unit capable of developing more than 100 horsepower, and a transmission system.

The all-wheel drive passenger-and-freight UAZ, which has increased cross-country ability, began to be mass-produced at the Ulyanovsk Automobile Plant in the mid-1960s.

On the machines of the UAZ - 452 family of the new model, there is a manual transmission (four-speed).Synchronizers of the inertial type provide easy shifting of gears. The five-speed ADS gearbox is synchronized in all forward gears.

A 5-speed manual transmission Daimos (DYMOS) can be installed on the UAZ. This transmission is distinguished by its reliability. The average resource of its work is 300,000 km of run. The filler plug is located in the middle of the box, the drain is at the bottom. It seems possible to unscrew them with a hex wrench. When the oil is drained, a special container should be prepared. New fluid must be filled up to the level of the oil filler hole on the box. The dipstick allows you to accurately determine to what mark the liquid is poured. An alternative to the stylus is a long nail. For preventive purposes, it is necessary to measure the oil level every 15,000 km.

The presence of mechanics on this version of the vehicle is fully justified. It is important to use such a car on rough terrain, off-road. In addition, there will be no towing problems.The gearbox has external shift levers. The lever in the cab moves freely both parallel and perpendicular to its axis.The machine is equipped with a transfer case. In the design of the transfer case on the UAZ 452: drive axle shafts, gears. All of the listed components are located in a cast iron crankcase. The crankcase and cover are connected with nuts. The shift fork rods are securely fixed in the cover.There is a slot, bearings. There is a helical gear wheel for the speedometer drive. The intermediate shaft is fixed on the bearings of the "loaf". This box contains reliable straight-toothed gears.Thus, the gearbox on the UAZ 452 consists of many components and assemblies. This unit needs regular maintenance. Image - DIY repair uaz 452

This vehicle must be diagnosed if the control began to deteriorate, characteristic squeaks were heard, when a gear change or gear began to spontaneously change. The transfer case of the UAZ should be checked if the adhesion of the wheels to the road has noticeably deteriorated, a hum began to appear, and a growing noise during its operation.

During the passage of MOT, the masters must check the system for oil leaks, the level of lubrication. All worn parts in the transmission system must be replaced with new ones. Also, diagnostics involves the implementation of lubrication of the axis of the levers, adjustment of the front rods.Routine diagnostics in a professional auto repair shop allows you to accurately determine the existing nature of the problem with the box, to eliminate existing problems at an early stage.As a rule, the need to replace the main components at the checkpoint arises with their natural wear and tear.The main reason for oil leakage from the gearbox is the presence of an increased fuel level in the system. For gearboxes on UAZ, high-quality oil should be used. If the liquid is not of the proper quality, then this may cause characteristic noises from the side of the box. When the synchronizer or its parts are worn out, a difficult gear change is always noted. Pay attention to the details of the switching mechanism. When the teeth of the gears are deformed, self-switching of gears is often noted.It is quite possible to carry out repair of the checkpoint on the UAZ 452 with your own hands. This requires:

a set of wrenches, including the wrenches needed to tighten the nuts;

screwdrivers;

hammer;

chisel;

pliers.

The vehicle must be on level ground. It is necessary to drain the oil from the two boxes by unscrewing the drain plugs. Next, the front seats, the hatch halves, the clutch release fork, the transverse frame, the gearshift levers from the boxes are removed.

Rice . one

We hook the edges of the wire to the holes in the gearbox near the gearbox attachment ears (see Fig. 2).

Rice . 2

We start a hydraulic jack (5t) as shown in fig. 3 and begin to raise the checkpoint.

Rice . 3

Having raised the gearbox for the first time, we look at the gearbox shaft for the entire length of the jack, it should already be near the clutch housing, if not, we need to put wooden scaffolds under the gearbox and lower the jack. Then place a scaffold under the jack and continue lifting. When the input shaft is lower, but along with the clutch housing, the gearbox must be pulled back, and then guided by the shaft into the clutch basket.

Pay attention ! On the right in the direction of the car, nuts with a long thread are used, on the left with a short thread. It is difficult to bait the left side, since the nut rests on the gearbox housing and needs to be squeezed out. First you need to bait on the left side and then press down on the right side.

Then we just add the ears of the gearbox to the frame, cut off the wire, connect the transfer case rods, press the release bearing, connect the cardan shafts, turn on the clutch, connect the gearbox rods.

Features of the UAZ transfer case, diagnostics and repair of the transfer case
Transfer case UAZ, device
How to check the handout
Causes of dispenser malfunction and their elimination
Transfer case repair
How to disassemble the transfer case UAZ

The distribution box for UAZ is responsible for the distribution of torque from the car engine to all drive mechanisms, and also allows you to increase the number of gears in the transmission. Moreover, the transfer case is capable of increasing torque when driving on poor road surfaces and is an essential attribute of any 4WD vehicle.

The UAZ transfer case device is a two-stage design without an center differential and with a neutral gear, as well as with a disabled front axle. The design includes a cast-iron crankcase with a cover, which is attached to the rear wall of the gearbox through the holes in the support plate.A parking brake mechanism is also attached to the rear of the transfer case.

The drive shafts, intermediate shafts and drive shafts of the rear and front axles are located in the crankcase, on bearings, between which the speedometer drive gear is located. The top of the transfer case is equipped with a hatch, which is closed with a lid.

It is important to understand how the handout control mechanism works. So, it consists of two rods with forks, which are attached to the cover. These forks lead to the drive gear and the front axle engagement gear. Also, two control levers are connected to the forks, by means of movable rods and levers. There is also a special locking ball that does not allow you to turn on a downshift when the front axle is disabled.

When direct drive is engaged, the drive gear is displaced into the gear bore of the rear axle shaft, thus the torque is transmitted directly.

When the downshift is engaged, the drive gear is displaced in such a way that the torque is transmitted to the intermediate shaft and to both gears of the axle drive shafts. Do not forget that you can only engage a downshift after the vehicle has come to a complete stop.

In order for the UAZ transfer case to work reliably and for a long time, it is necessary not only to regularly check it, but also to update it. Like any other part of the car, the transfer case requires some maintenance. The first thing to do is check the oil level in the dispenser.

It is also necessary to regularly check the integrity of the fasteners on which the distributor is held. If you notice that the oil is leaking, you need to quickly find the source of the problem and replace the plug, gasket, or the like.

In this section, we will tell you why the transfer case for UAZ may not work, what malfunctions drivers face, why breakdowns occur and, most importantly, how to fix them.

Increased noise in the transfer case. This may be due to bearing wear caused by insufficient lubrication or contamination of the lubricant, or gear tooth wear caused by loose nuts and bolts. The noise can be eliminated by replacing worn parts, adding oil or cleaning it. If the noise does not disappear, the transfer case will have to be disassembled and the cause of the problem will have to be studied in more detail.

Complicated gear shifting. The reasons for this inconvenience can be jamming in control mechanisms, contamination or corrosion of parts, nicks in the teeth, or unequal tire swing radius. In order to fix the problem, it will be necessary to clean the control mechanisms, replace unusable parts and clean the nicks.

While the vehicle is in motion, the gears are switched off by themselves. Wear of the gear teeth, incomplete engagement of the gear due to deformation of parts or wear of the bearings, which leads to misalignment of the shafts, can provoke the disengagement of the gear. To fix the problem, it is necessary to replace worn gears and bearings, as well as fix or replace deformed parts and clean out nicks.

Oil leak. Oil can leak for many reasons. The most common of them are: loosening of fasteners, wear of gaskets and bearing caps, wear of oil seals, as well as microcracks in the body of the part. As in previous cases, it is necessary to replace all worn out consumables and tighten all nuts and bolts well.

Before carrying out the repair of the RK UAZ with your own hands, it is important to see what kind of box you have, synchronized or not: the set of tools required for the repair will depend on this. In general, the repair of the transfer case at the UAZ is the replacement of worn out parts or the tightening of all nuts, bolts and fasteners. That is why the dismantling and assembly of the box are important processes. With proper disassembly and assembly, you will be able to carry out a quick and high-quality repair of the unit. The first stage is disassembly and troubleshooting, the second stage is the separation of the RK from the checkpoint and the third stage is the repair itself.

It is important to remember that the following components are subject to repair or replacement:

Oil seals. They must be changed when disassembling the handout, regardless of whether they are worn out or not;
Gears. These parts cannot be repaired, therefore, if they are out of order, be sure to replace the gears. Otherwise, the unit may jam;
Forks and Spitz These components are also best replaced if you find wear or tear on them.
Bearings. If you find that the bearings are chipped, cracked or broken, be sure to replace the deformed part.
Protective case. This part of the device must also be safe and sound, without cracks or gaps.

Before proceeding with dismantling, we strongly advise you to study the description of the UAZ distribution box, in many ways it will answer your questions and greatly simplify the repair process.

Disassembly of the transfer case should be carried out in the following order:

Place the car in the inspection pit and provide access to the necessary parts;
The dismantling process can only be started when the gearbox and junction box levers are in neutral;
Drain the oil completely from the box;
Unscrew all bolts and nuts, remove the cover and trim of the part, and also disconnect the wires that fit the device.

After completing these steps, you can safely detect problems and repair the UAZ distributor.

After the transfer case of the UAZ has been fully investigated and a high-quality repair has been carried out, the unit must be installed back. Assembly takes place in the same way as disassembly, only in reverse order. The mechanism is installed in place, all bolts and nuts are carefully tightened, the fasteners are checked, after which oil is poured to a certain level. Remember that the oil must be filled with a new one. As soon as all the procedures have been done, check the correct functioning of the unit. The check of the UAZ “Patriot” distributor takes place in the second mode under load, in other cases the check can be carried out without load.

So, timely response to the slightest changes in the work of the distributor, regular maintenance and respect for the car will help you eliminate minor problems in time and prevent a critical situation on the road. Do not forget that a reliable assistant in disassembling, repairing and assembling the part will be the UAZ distribution diagram, which clearly indicates all the connectors, inputs and outputs.

Forum of Ukrainian UAZ growers and UAZ amateurs

Thank you for your feedback! Kum suggests naming the outer bearing race with a welding one, is it worth it? Some say good, others say bullshit, resource 100 km and the same song, who to believe?

That is, the outer cage is not too tight, right?

It is clear, choose with the least backlash and set. thanks!

If you change everything that has earned some money, then the gearbox should be changed by at least 90%, and better by 100%! no denyuh toko. At a minimum - bearings, synchromes (absent), the 2nd gear as the most worn out gear, 3-4 fork and let it work further. The budget is about UAH 500, the new checkpoint is about UAH 5000. In pk, everything is much better - the lower fork is bent and worn out and 2 bearings crumbled. Total: replacement of bearings, oil seals, plug and flange with a handbrake for another 500-600 UAH, and for good reason, replace the housing.

We continue to generalize the modifications of the UAZ. In this topic, we will touch on the finalization of the transfer case. The so-called tuning of the RK is reduced to changing the gear ratio upward. The result of this refinement will be a reduction in engine load when driving off-road. It will be easier for him to carry big wheels. Longer clutch life. Currently, RK UAZ are of two types: spur-toothed (old goat, loaf) and helical (Hunter, Patriot, etc.). Currently, there are several manufacturers on the market, but the sets of lowering are usually the same. Let's analyze the nuances of the installations of different KITs in different RK.

Spur tooth:
- 1: 2.6 - this set consists of gears and a scrubber shaft, which must be replaced in a standard RK. At the same time, serious modifications of the RK crankcase are not required.Ideal for standard class cars. Since the corps of the Republic of Kazakhstan remains unchanged and not a single technical commissioner will see the revision

.
- 1: 3.0 (1: 3.3) - this kit requires serious revision of the RK body or its replacement with the RK Hunter body, as well as forks. Essential for normal driving with wheels from 33 ″.
- 1: 3.7 (1: 4.2) - the installation of this kit will certainly give the owner an insane traction on the road. But it will make the car a heavenly slug. Since even the 4th reduced speed will be equal to the 1st reduced speed of the stock RK.

In light of the refinement of the straight-toothed RK, we will touch upon one more problem, namely, knocking out. The standard gear wheel lowered in the factory RK has a width of 13 mm. The gears of the KITs that I came across were increased to 16 mm. Thus, the contact patch in the engagement of the engagement clutch and the reduced gear increases. In addition, the contact patch can be enlarged by transferring the recess of the retainer.

Kosozub: it should be said that KITs are installed in a helical RK much easier due to the larger body volume and, accordingly, less modification. In addition, at present, the helical RK can be made single-lever (if it has two levers) and a “non-knockout” mechanism can be installed

- 1: 2.5 (1: 2.8) - I think this is exactly the kind of reduction that should be on a car with a standard wheel size.
- 1: 3.3 - in my opinion the optimal set for heavy vehicles with wheels from 33 ″
- 1: 4.2 - this kit requires replacement of almost all of the giblets of the RK. The meaning of its installation is serious off-road, installation of wheels from 36 ″.

Video (click to play).

In the end, it should be said that the main wear of the RK gears occurs at the time of on-off. Only the correct observance of the procedure for switching on the reduction will help to extend the life of the RK.

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