In detail: DIY repair of a diamond jack from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
In winter, when lifting the car, it turned out that the jack jammed, does not twist, does not unscrew.
We unscrew the bolts on both sides.
I bought a set of taps and a die - 14 * 1.5
I drive the thread to the nut with a die.
I unscrew the nut and drive the shaft thread to the end.
Using a tap, I restore the thread in the nut.
I lubricate the axle with lithol and tighten the nut.
It remains to conduct tests! :)
Almost every person now has a car. For some, it acts as an income - this is a taxi, buses, freight, etc. Someone just needs it for movement. But for true motorists, the car is the closest friend who helps out in difficult times and never fails. They take care of it, take good care of it, and repair it on time. Often such people in life are friends with technology and love the instrument. They like to do something with their own hands, because it brings great pleasure. Often, some useful and interesting things for the car are obtained.
For example, it is a good idea to make a jack. Indeed, no motorist can do without this device. Many, of course, will now say that it is easier to go and buy it in the store. But for a true mechanic to build such a thing, especially for your own car, will not be difficult. It is only important to know how to make a jack, and what it will consist of.
Before you start making a jack for a car with your own hands, you need to decide what kind of design it will be. To do this, you need to know the main types of these devices that can be found in stores:
Video (click to play).
Rack. This type has been used for a very long time. It is based on a long metal rail with holes, a lever and a ratchet with a perpendicular end. By pushing the lever down, the ratchet lifts the weight with it. Pulling it up - it works, locking itself into one of the holes nearest on the rail along with the load. Then the cycle repeats again;
These are the main types of jacks that are used the most. They are classified precisely by the type of force used (mechanical, hydraulic, etc.), but there are many varieties of them. So, for example, hydraulic devices are haulage, cylindrical, trailed, two-level. That is, there is only one type of jack, but there are several types of it. Therefore, there is a wide choice in order to independently make your own model using a prototype.
It should be said right away that needlework is not easy and requires certain skills. In our case, these are almost all the abilities that a novice mechanic should have:
welding - the most basic thing that is required when working with metal. Since the structure will be assembled from scratch, it will only need to be welded. Moreover, this must be done with high quality, so that in the end you get a durable product;cutting - it is enough to be able to cut iron with a grinder. It is good if you have the skill of cutting with an oxygen torch;treatment - it will be difficult without the skill of using a file or grinder;lathe case - in principle, you can do without it, but if you are fond of this, it will be much easier in the manufacture and processing of some parts;painting - a hand-made thing must be painted.If you have the above skills, then there should be no problems in the manufacturing process of the jack. The higher the level of proficiency in the instrument, the better the product will be.
In order to make a jack, there must be a suitable tool. The first step is welding, since it will be used for assembly. It is desirable that it be semi-automatic apparatus with carbon dioxide. Then the seams will be much smoother and there will be no excess slag. The second, and no less important, is Bulgarian ... It is good if the assortment includes both small and large. With their help, you will cut steel blanks. You will also need drill , because you have to make more than one hole. To easily handle iron parts, you must electric sharpener ... It is key in the fitting process. In addition, it is desirable to have more hand tools : files, needle files, bars, hammers, screwdrivers, rasps, taps with a set of taps, sledgehammers, vices, etc. The more tools you have at hand, the easier the manufacturing process will seem.
The more tools are available, the easier and better the jack will be.
Lathe
It is also worth talking about the material. You can buy it at the market or at the scrap metal collection point. The second option is much cheaper, since at the scrap reception all the metal is rusty and bruised. It is not suitable for exploitation, but as a donor it is just that. It is desirable, of course, to purchase as much as possible. Indeed, depending on what kind of jack you want, you may need additional mechanisms or fasteners that you cannot make yourself. Therefore, be prepared to purchase some of the components on the market.
The base (both the lifting arm and the lifting platform) of the hydraulic jack can be made from a channel. A conventional hydraulic bottle jack is used for the lifting force. To move the jack, wheels can be attached (can be replaced with bearings, rollers or something similar).
Homemade hydraulic rolling jack device
It is recommended to install the bottle jack on a movable platform - "swing", since during operation the jack slightly changes its angle, and some compensation of movements is required. The platform should swing slightly from side to side. It can be made from the same channel by drilling a through hole in the lifting base and placing the "swing" on the bolt so that a small gap of 0.5-1 cm remains between the base and the platform.
Movable platform for a bottle jack
To increase the strength of the structure, it is advisable to make braces from rods on both sides of the base. The thicker the rods, the better. They are welded to the base.
The device is powered by a bottle jack. When it is set in motion with a special handle-rod, it rises, which moves the lifting arm upwards.
The process of work of a homemade hydraulic rolling jack
A drawing of such a hydraulic jack for making it with your own hands is shown in the image below:
DIY hydraulic trolley jack drawing
Also see a few video , where you can learn more about how to make a hydraulic jack with your own hands:
VIDEO
VIDEO
VIDEO
As an example, also consider a pneumatic device that easiest to do ... So, you will need:
Air bag. The main working part that can be found disassembled or on the market.An ordinary rubber cylinder from the air suspension of a car can act in its role. It is best suited from a cargo area, as it is much stronger and can withstand strong pressure, which increases the lifting moment. But it has a great height, so it is not always possible to substitute such a jack under a car with low ground clearance;Two bolts. They will be needed to make the valve in the pillow. In general, it initially has a factory threaded hole into which a high-pressure pipe was screwed. Now, instead of it, we need to select the same diameter bolt, and then find another one, which will serve as the top cover. They need to be drilled out so that when connected to each other, a cavity is obtained inside them. Then we put a ball from the bearing and a strong connection for pumping inside the upper bolt. Now the whole structure can be welded and screwed into the hole in the pillow.In principle, any passenger car can be easily lifted with such a home-made device. It is enough to place a pneumatic cylinder under the platform on the bottom and connect a high pressure hose to the fitting. By supplying compressed air, the pillow will begin to rise with the machine.
The principle of operation of a homemade pneumatic jack
For convenience, such a jack can be completed by inventing a reliable platform with wheels. Thus, if the cylinder is taken for disassembly, then the device of its own manufacture goes almost for a penny.
Improved pneumatic jack on wheels
You can also see a few video how to make a pneumatic jack with your own hands:
VIDEO
VIDEO
VIDEO
The most important question remains. Should you even make a jack yourself? The answers to it may be different, however, after weighing all the nuances, you can come to the final conclusion. First you need to figure out the cost. It is clear that no one will buy a tool for manufacturing, nevertheless, you will need material and some parts, which you still have to purchase. It is quite possible to buy a new factory jack for 5,000 rubles. Waste on homemade will depend on what type and type it is. So, making a hydraulic one will be the most expensive, but the above considered pneumatic one is the cheapest.
In general, the cost of the jack is not so big to rack your brains and make it yourself. If it doesn't matter to you, then it is better not to tackle it and buy a new one in the store. But, if the process itself is interesting, and you want to make something, then this is a great idea to test your skills. It may even be possible to save 1-2 thousand rubles. That is, when there is a desire to do, try, be wise and achieve results. But if you are not interested in the process of making a jack, then it is better to postpone this business.
The main thing to remember is the security measures. Any tool used by inexperienced hands can cause serious injury. Remember to also wear safety goggles when working metal and when welding to keep your eyes safe.
The jack is one of the most important tools in the arsenal, it will help everywhere: repairing a machine or equipment, carrying out a variety of construction and repair work. And if suddenly your device is out of order for some reason, you need to learn how to repair a hydraulic jack with your own hands!
A wide variety of jacks will also please, each of which has its own characteristics and distinctive features.
Like any equipment that carries huge loads, devices can often break down, and therefore you always need to know how to repair the jack yourself. To be fully armed at the time of a breakdown!
VIDEO
Any hydraulic jack operates on liquid, and the main elements of the jack are the body, piston and oil. If you decide to learn how to carry out repairs yourself, you definitely need to know what reasons can lead to breakdowns.First of all, the structure of the device could be "attacked" by corrosion, which leads to restriction during the descent of the mechanism. Naturally, jacks often break due to too much stress, which leads to bending of the rods.
There are some other points, including the need to change the oil. However, any repair is carried out practically according to the same scheme. And the first thing you need to know is how to disassemble the device, after which you can start changing the fluid. The tool is disassembled in the following order:
Using wrenches, unscrew the fasteners;
Remove the fluid bleed valve and piston;
Carrying out a competent inspection, we check the quality of the valve and all gaskets - if you notice that they have become unusable, we just change the elements of the jack;
We clean the mechanism from debris and other foreign elements, rinse the cylinder;
We check and change the old rubber band if necessary;
The last step is to reassemble the tool in reverse order.
Naturally, after you assemble the jack, it should be checked for operability! If the device starts working, great, but it doesn't always work out the first time. Perhaps the oil is the problem?
VIDEO
Oil is the driving force of the device, it is this oil that presses on the piston, setting the rod to the desired position. Due to this, it is possible to lift almost any load. If there is not enough oil in the device, the mechanism will not work. Many who start repairs for the first time miss this moment, which ultimately leads to problems with the operation of the jack. Oil change instructions:
In order to fill the jack with oil, you must first unscrew the plug and drain the old fluid. The next step is to clean the mechanism with flushing fluid, which can be purchased at any hardware store. By the way, it is quite difficult to flush the jack completely, especially for a beginner, because you will have to fill in the liquid at least two or three times, after which the pumping is carried out, the liquid is added again and pumped again. The old oil is drained in the same way - so that not even a drop of old fluid remains inside the mechanism.
The container must be filled with oil to the end, that is, until the liquid reaches the required level. In this case, set the jack in a low position. To lower the stem to the lower position, be sure to turn the screw-cock until it reaches the “drain” position. Having tightened the plug, we carry out the pumping for five times, after which we add oil and tighten the plug again. There will not be enough oil every time during the cleaning process, and therefore it is necessary to pump it until the “fuel” of our jack reaches the required level, and bubbles stop appearing on the surface of the liquid.
VIDEO
As you have seen, repairing jacks with your own hands is a fairly simple job. However, of course, I do not want to bring it to repair work, because it takes both time and effort to implement. That is why we have compiled a selection of recommendations from experts for you. If you follow them, then the operation of your jack will become much easier, and repairs can be "pushed" further away.
In order for the oil change work to be carried out efficiently and correctly, it is imperative to remove any loads, and the device itself can be started to operate only after you have completely completed all the work and assemble the jack;
It is advisable to change the "fuel" twice a year, and if you use the jack constantly, then at least once a month you need to carry out these works, and you must flush the entire mechanism every time; You can choose any oil, but if you are going to use the device in the winter season, be sure to use a synthetic solution. This will allow the mechanism to always be in "full combat readiness" for work;
No matter what time of year it is outside, it will be better if you can store the tool in a dry and warm place, otherwise the oil may simply freeze;
If it is necessary to carry out work in the winter season, remember that too long work in the cold can lead to damage to the device, and therefore the operation of the jack is possible in the most extreme cases and for a short time.
If you work with these methods, you can significantly extend the life of the jack. And expensive repairs, which can cost you a significant amount, can be "postponed" indefinitely, which is good news!
VIDEO
Good time everyone. I would like to share with you my revision of the diamond jack. I must say right away that the idea itself is not mine. I saw something similar on the internet six months ago, but that option with the use of welding.
In this regard, I had an idea how to do this without dragging a jack anywhere. Generally,
Author; Dmitry Fadyushin Dzerzhinsk, Nizhny Novgorod region
Modern passenger cars, for the most part, regardless of the country of manufacture, are equipped with rhombic jacks. They are simple and easy to use. But there are several circumstances that make it impossible to transfer them to the category of ideal. The main thing is that they are indispensable on a paved road, but when you managed to punch a wheel on a dirt or snowy road, then you will have a hard time. The working threaded shaft of your jack will inevitably be submerged in mud, puddle, snow slurry. Torture and real torment await you. Yes, and you will grind your clothes and smear them. And, if you don’t change, then the entire interior of the car.
Due to the fact that the working shaft will be directly close to the ground, then it will be problematic and difficult to twist it. A full turn will not work. You will have to lift in small portions, often changing the position of the lever. Everyone is covered in mud, on their knees and insanely slow. Horror!
The first thing I decided to do to retrofit a traditional jack was to move the force axis slightly above the working axis. So that you can work without kneeling down and raise the car by continuous rotation of the lever around the axis. To do this, I had to install a vertical metal bar from the working end of the jack, on which to fix a pair of working chain sprockets. One large sprocket was electrically welded to the end of the working shaft.
The second one rotated freely at the back end of the metal bar. To do this, I managed to do without a rolling bearing, and get by with a simple plain bearing. To do this, it was enough to pick up and install a piece of pipe of a suitable diameter on the axle holding the upper gear, so that the gear rotates easily on the axle. It was enough to treat the resulting swivel joint well with lubricant.
In order for a pair of our gears to be strictly in a vertical position to the working axis of the jack, it is enough to install a piece of pipe with a larger diameter than the axis itself in the middle of the working axis, inside the jack itself. To do this, the pipe had to be halved lengthwise and again, using electric welding, connected on the axis itself. Then align the sprocket bearing bar strictly perpendicular to the working axis of the jack and fix everything in this position. To do this, it is enough to connect, using a metal rail and electric welding, the bar and the pipe on the working axis itself with the sprockets.
Considering that I have installed gears of different diameters, I have achieved that in order to raise the car, now I have to spend three times less effort than before. Now any car can be lifted by any schoolchild. Yes, at first glance, the lifting speed should have slowed down, but due to the convenience, load reduction and the ability to continuously, easily rotating around the axis, achieve the desired performance. In addition, the idea came to my mind to form the point of application of force in such a way that it would be possible to use not only a lever or a simple wrench, but also to use a cordless screwdriver. For this, the axis of the drive sprocket must end with a diameter of no more than 10 mm. The screwdriver chuck simply does not fit on the major axis.
With such a power tool, lifting a car has become easy, simple and extremely fast.!
Is the screw jack broken - are the “beavers” with an internal thread, into which the pin is screwed, sold separately?
2SergeyE
Take the pieces of nuts, bungle a suitable clip and scald.
Пъ wrote:
Will you lie under the car on such a jack?
There are no debris - the thread partially flew out, but the beaver remained intact (its shape is not just a cylinder, but on the sides there are protrusions that slide along the cutouts in the side walls)
2Alex___dr
Пъ wrote:
Пъ wrote:
By making a new nut. And not otherwise!
2Alex___dr
there was no one under the jack - there were boards under the wheels
I would throw it away. The car will fly off him - you will make a dent - the repair will be more expensive.
Throw it away. Without a shadow of doubt and pity!
Japanese untouched jack costs 100 rubles!
Alex___dr wrote:
Laughter laughter. but there are 3 unnecessary
The cynic wrote:
If the master survives
ARN wrote:
You have one hundred rubles in Vladik. And we have a VAZ "pantograph" made of rawhide steel 250.
I tried to pick a nut for such a thread - they fit in diameter, but not on the thread - they could not pick it up in a car shop
found not quite right, but close
Пъ wrote:
+100!
Mikhalych wrote:
Well, yes. Otherwise, the mount can be repaired.
the mount is easy to repair - by welding
but the jack - I threw one similar nut - it's called the mortgage anchor - the next time I go to that store - I'll grab the jack - it might do
I think - how to move the side walls of the jack apart in order to remove the old beaver - I don’t have such a jack with hooks so that in a compressed state they fit in 10 cm and can hook the walls - I need to think of something
SergeyE wrote:
But there is welding and angle grinder
2SergeyE No need to repair mounts and weld key jaws! It is as pointless as it is dangerous.
SergeyE wrote:
What kind of jack do you have so unrepentant that you don’t want to part with it? Throw a picture!
et you cho a rhombus for 250r are going to fix it? Oh well.
SergeyE wrote:
–In a separate topic. With a photo report !!
serezhiki wrote:
- in due time from nefig to do, and just for the sake of interest I welded the broken off handle to the pliers. Surprisingly fast and durable
2 * Pasha * Well, well. Dad and I brewed a balloon, okay there was a key in the car for the pipe (zzz don't remember. 21 or 22). Otherwise they would have been cuckolding for a long time at night, in winter on the road outside the city!
serezhiki wrote:
And I drive two balonniki - one that was in the kit, the other is telescopic, if you wish, you can use it as a golf club
- in vain you are ironic - I personally broke the pliers, three times did not work. Although, of course, nothing more than a successful experiment. There is something to use without those, especially since, unfortunately, someone took them away.
serezhiki wrote:
- badly brewed means. Or the material was inappropriate for your balonnik - after all, if it broke from a defect (such as microcracks, etc.) - this is one thing, and if initially the metal was wrong, then there is nothing to cook it!
PS: I also drive 2 balonniks
install under the part located low , - so that no other jack can get under it.
Diagram of the hydraulic jack
Professional rolling jacks differ in size and capacity. As a rule, the valve is controlled by turning the handle, which is very convenient during operation.
Rolling jacks differ in size and capacity. As a rule, the valve is controlled by turning the handle.
The force generated by the plunger is transmitted through the oil used as the working fluid to the piston connected to the rod. In this case, oil is pumped from the front cavity of the cylinder of the jack to the rear (from the side of the plunger). At the same time, the bypass channel is closed, and the inlet and discharge valves allow the oil to move only towards the rear cavity, that is, the jack works like a pump.When the bypass needle (which is a pointed threaded rod) is opened, oil can flow back into the anterior cavity through the bypass. If at this moment the jack is under load, then the piston rod will sink into the cylinder.
Tight fit of the valves to the seats.
The required oil level.
The absence of air bubbles in the oil.
Do-it-yourself repair of a sliding hydraulic damkra
This is usually due to either a lack of oil in the jack, or damage or dirty valves .
If you use a jack all year round, then it is better to fill in a synthetic motor - after all, it thickens less in the cold.
If the filled jack still does not lift or does not hold, then you cannot do without repairing it - most likely, the valves do not adhere well to the seats. This can happen if the valve springs are "loose" or dirt gets into the channels.
Repair kit for hydraulic jack
After repair and filling with fresh oil, the jack must be “pumped” - actively “work” with the plunger to remove excess air.
VIDEO
The quality of the Canadian jack let down, cut off the thread of the nut, I had to put a simple threaded rod with a nut of increased diameter
How does the modified jack feel after repair? Does the thread hold the studs? What is the weight of the car being lifted?
The screw part was reinforced - after several changes of the wheel sets (winter-summer), the teeth at the base of the jack would be cut. It's a matter of time, at the most inconvenient moment, and even the car will get off him.
just do not forget, not a single part of the body under the car will be carried away by the stands, even for a second.
I had a thread on a nut on a Japanese jack. I think your recovery method will be just right.
steel eats and you want on raw meat, many of these tore, better hydraulics
welding in such places is very dangerous
better, of course, a screw with a trapezoidal thread, modern studs are made from soft metal.
Video (click to play).
You cannot weld the screw in such places, you made it less thin in terms of the holding area, and there the load is not inward but to rupture, it will fly off in that place on such snot! It is better to order a new screw to make it durable, and not to weld raw Chinese stuff! For standard diamond-shaped jacks, the threads pulled 3 and 5 times on new Tiguan, Sorento cars. And these are regular jacks, I will repeat, now when choosing a new diamond-shaped one I see different names, but the manufacturer is one and all the ketay, even like our Bison-Maid Indian. And in the reviews, people also write enough of them for 2-5 times in total and the metal swam, who has a screw, who has a nut, even 2 tons float from a load of only 1.4 tons of cars, there is no choice, they are 3 one-time in fact now.PS: making a nut 4 times longer than the one running along the screw is a very correct decision, you see, it may not float for all the threads on the screw / hairpin
