In detail: do-it-yourself repair of a manual thermo-pot pump from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
Thermopot is a mixture of a teapot and a thermos. To maintain a certain temperature of the liquid in the device, a heating function is provided. Despite the rather reliable design, the device breaks down over time, and the question arises: is it possible to repair the thermopot with your own hands?
Before you start looking for the reasons that caused the malfunction in the device, it is advisable to know a little about its device. A thermopot consists of a plastic or metal case, inside which there is a metal container for water. The device is closed with a lid with controls.
In any thermo-pot there are 2 heaters: one for boiling water, and the second for maintaining the desired temperature regime. To control the heating of the liquid to a certain value, the device is installed thermostat... The latter is of 2 types.
- Stepless - characterized by smooth regulation of the water temperature in the range from 60 to 100 degrees.
- Stepwise - the temperature regime is adjusted according to fixed temperature values, for example, as in the VITEK VT-1187 GY thermo-pot, Saturn ST-EK8032, as well as in the MYSTERY MTP-2403 device
Thermopots always have at their disposal several heating control modes. The more modes there are, the more flexible the device can be controlled.
But practice suggests that in most cases 3 modes are enough to control temperature indicators. In inexpensive models such as Magnit RTP-013 and MAGNIT RTP-002, only 1 temperature setting is available, which only allows you to boil water.
Video (click to play). |
Also, the thermopot is equipped with an electronic board (control module) and electric pump (pump) for supplying heated water from the container. To supply heated water to the cup, there are several modes: manual filling, auto-filling and filling with a lever on the spout. Such filling functions are available, for example, in the Polaris pwp 4012d or Saturn ST-EK8034 NEW aggregate.
The most common causes of breakdowns are the following parts of the device:
- network wire;
- control module;
- water pump;
- electric heaters;
- thermal switch.
Before you repair the thermo-pot with your own hands, you should disconnect it from the network. After that, in order to “ring out” the wire of the device with the tester, it must be disconnected. To do this, unscrew the screws on the bottom of the device and remove it. You will see the terminals to which the power cord... Unplug the cord and start “ringing” it with the tester. If the cord is in order, you can proceed with further troubleshooting.
If you find that on your device button does not work or all keys, the cause of the problem may be a failed control unit. It is not recommended to repair it on your own, since it is necessary to have certain knowledge in radio electronics. It will be better if a service center will repair the thermos kettle.
If, after turning on the device, it does not boil water, while all heating modes, as well as automation, are working, then these symptoms indicate that the heater may have burned out or the thermostat has failed.... To find out, you need disassembly of the unit.
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Empty the container and turn the device over. At the bottom you will see screws that need to be removed.
Unscrew the PCB and set it aside.
In different models of units, the type of heating elements may differ. Their location may also vary. But the algorithm for disassembling the device, in most cases, is similar. To learn more about how to change the heaters, you can watch the video.
If the thermopot does not pump water when trying to pour hot liquid into the cup, then, most likely, the pump does not work, due to its failure. To get to the pump, you will need to disassemble the device as described above. After removing all parts of the bottom, you will see the pump.
Next, do the following.
- To easily remove the pump, disconnect one of the tubing connected to the pump. If the tubes are clogged with limescale, it is recommended to remove and clean them.
- Separate the pump from the housing and be careful not to lose the silicone gasket.
- After that, unscrew the fasteners connecting the motor to the impeller to the pump housing.
- After disconnecting the pump housing and the electric motor, you will notice scale build-upthat interferes with the rotation of the impeller.
- Also, if you remove the impeller (it is she who is responsible for the water supply), you can find clogged magnetto be cleaned of dirt.
If, after removing all the contaminants, the pump does not turn on and there is no water supply, then you will need to purchase a new pump, since these signs indicate a burnout of the electric motor winding.
Sometimes a situation arises when the thermo-pot does not turn off and boils water constantly... Or vice versa: you have poured water, the device heats it up, but turns off when the liquid is not boiling yet. Why is this happening? This malfunction can occur when the thermal switches are faulty. They can be found on the bottom and sides of the tank. For better contact with the surface, a special thermal paste is used.
The thermal switch located at the bottom of the tank is attached to it with two screws. Sometimes a manufacturer, especially a Chinese one, applies little thermal paste, because of which the thermostat starts to work incorrectly: the device may not turn off for a long time when boiling water.
To test the thermostat for operability, it is necessary to disconnect it from the tank body, and remove the wires from the terminals. In the normal state (no heating), the relay is in the “on” position. If you check it with a tester, the device will show a resistance of 0 Ohm.
Next, you should connect 2 wires to the switch and immerse it in water brought to a boil. Now measure the resistance again. If the device shows infinity, it means that the switch has tripped and it is functioning normally. If the sensor is not working, then you should purchase a new one and replace it.You can watch the following video about replacing the thermal switch.
Above, some breakdowns of the thermos kettle were considered, which can be completely eliminated without the involvement of a specialist. In other cases, the unit should be taken to a specialized service center for repair. But before you hand over the device for repair, ask how much it will cost you. Most often, from a financial point of view, the repair is not justified, since its cost will be within the price of a new thermo-pot.
A thermo pot has many virtues, however, like a simple kettle, it can sometimes break. In order to repair a thermos kettle with your own hands, you should imagine how it works.
All thermoses-heaters have a similar structure and principle of operation, differing only in additional functions, as well as in the material of manufacture. The working parts of the thermopot are enclosed in a housing, and in order to repair the thermopot, it will have to be removed. Water is poured into a stainless steel tank, in the bottom of which there are two heating elements. One of them produces the main heating to the state of boiling water, and the second only heats the water. There is also a general conclusion. Ceramic protection - "beads" is put on each wire. This eliminates the contact of wires with a metal container.
A cylindrical object can be seen from the side. This is a thermopot engine (water pump) designed to supply water. In different models, the voltage drop across the motor ranges from 8 to 24 volts.
It is impossible not to notice the electronic board on which the circuit (time relay) is mounted, which is responsible for re-boiling. Also, a circuit is needed to convert the voltage for the pump and relay. You can solder the loose contacts on the diagram with your own hands, making their repair in this way.
In addition to the main board, the thermo-pot has a control board. With its help, the buttons for water supply, reheating work, red and LED indicators are connected to it, indicating in what mode the thermopot is.
The thermal switch is of great importance in all heating devices. It is installed in the bottom and on the side of the water tank. In case the thermal switch does not work, a thermal fuse is also provided. This allows you to prevent overheating and damage to the thermal pot if it is turned on empty.
Knowing the location of all the main parts of the thermopot, it is much easier to identify the problem and make repairs. It's even better to study the diagram in order to understand what is connected how, and what parts can be changed. In some cases, the repair does not make sense, and even specialists do not undertake it.
It should be noted right away that it is easiest to remove the upper part of the thermos-heater with your own hands. To disassemble the thermopot, you need to find and unscrew the screws located at the bottom of the device. The housing can then be easily removed. First, you need to visually inspect the board. It happens that a crack is found in the solder, and the soldered element falls off. In this case, you should use a soldering iron to fix everything as it was.
Be sure to inspect the thermal switch located in the bottom. Its condition is checked with an ohmmeter. The working device has practically zero resistance. A non-working part must be replaced with a new one. And then the question becomes where to buy the necessary spare part. Often this can only be done through online stores.
To remove the pump in case of its malfunction, it is necessary to disconnect the supply pipe from it and unscrew the bolts. Sometimes cleaning the impeller and magnet with a regular napkin gives results. In some cases, the repair will no longer help, and you will have to resort to replacing the thermo-pot.
We will analyze what malfunctions a thermopot can have, and how to fix them with our own hands.
- The display panel does not turn on and the device does not work at all. In this case, check all wires, all connections, as well as the fuse and thermal regulator.If there are several reasons, then the repair will be more difficult to perform.
- Only the reboil button works. The main first boil is not carried out. In this case, check the thermo switch located in the bottom.
- The first boiling works, and when boiling again, the thermal pot does not turn on. Inspect the circuit on the main board.
- The water can only be heated, the thermopot does not boil. Most likely, the heating element has burned out or the contact has broken.
- The water supply function has stopped working. There is a problem with the pump power supply. Quite often, the additional heating coil also burns out, after which voltage is no longer supplied to the motor.
If the coils of the heating elements are burned out, then it is not economically feasible to repair the thermal pot. Firstly, it is difficult to disassemble the tank, and secondly, the cost of insulation and high-resistance wires is quite high.
When the repair is completed, it is necessary to check the electrical safety of the device. For this, it is necessary to measure the resistance between the contacts of the plug and the tank, as well as between the contacts of the plug and the outer casing. The resistance must be endless.