In detail: do-it-yourself jacket sleeve repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
Recently, a friend approached me with a request to fix the burnt sleeve on my favorite textile jacket. The owner categorically refused to remake the thing into a vest, so I turned to the world mind to search for inspiration. Some of the options seemed interesting to me, and I wanted to share with you some ideas that you can use in fixing, lengthening, or just decorating your favorite things.
Of course, the most common and popular decoration is the addition of lace, braid, ribbons to light shirts, blouses, and knitwear. Inserts can be made in the middle of a part:
There are quite intricate options for decorating sleeves with sewing and guipure:
Of course, one of the most popular sleeve transformations is cuff fantasies. The cuffs can be sewn to the sleeve or simply pushed under it:
In the case of gaps, cuts on the sleeves, you can make curly lace inserts:
Options for warmer clothing are also found. And for my task they are more relevant.
You can transform a jacket, jacket or light jacket using ribbons, braid, as well as patches or flounces from companion fabrics. At the same time, there is no limit to the options for combining colors and textures.
Or you can lengthen the sleeves with knitted cuffs or replace the sleeves completely!
The most time-consuming, in my opinion, but no less interesting solution: finishing the sleeves with fur. From the point of view of utilitarianism, it may be debatable, but beautifully:
And finally, the idea that I liked extraordinarily: just fly away, crocheted fringed sleeves on a denim jacket.
Video (click to play). |
Sometimes, I am very jealous of girls' moms!
In any case, just throwing away the torn thing, my hand does not rise. You have to invent something so that the product can be worn again.
This time I will make an “unusual patch”, rather not even a patch, but an extension made of a different fabric.
If you also have such unforeseen situations, my experience should be useful to you. And don't forget to subscribe to blog updates. HERE, for sure, this is not the last article on repair.
So, the jacket looked like this - the bottom edge is torn, or rather a piece of fabric is torn!
I find more or less a suitable piece of fabric (jacket fabric), cut out a long strip.
Its dimensions are determined taking into account the width of the lower edge of the jacket: the length is equal to the length of the lower cut of the back part, and I took the width so that the strip covers the torn edge on both sides, plus allowances for the width of the seam.
The result is a strip about 50 cm long, about 15 cm wide.I duplicate it with non-woven fabric
Carefully remove all protruding threads, put a glue web under the cut sections and gently iron it, fixing the edges of the gap. You can, of course, do without this technological operation, but it is safer this way.
Immediately I iron the edge of the prepared strip inward on three sides - a long one and two short ones (the layer of the fabric to be sewn is thick, so unnecessary pressing will not hurt, and it is much more convenient to sew along the already fixed edge).
I mark the center of the backrest and the middle of the strip, for precise alignment of parts.
To reduce the thickness and to avoid bias grinded materials, chipping off the fabric along the bottom edge of the jacket.
I apply the prepared strip with the right side to the seamy side of the jacket with a non-ironed cut! and grind.
View with an already sewn strip.
Then I wrap the bottom of the jacket with a strip, first I pin it, and then I line it exactly to the edge.
The result is this new bottom edge of the jacket.
And here is the "updated" jacket itself. I AM stitched the stitched strip along the bottom edge jackets in the middleto better secure and make the edges tighter.
The jacket can now be worn again, and I have to wait for the next "surprise".
This repair method is well applicable when needed. repair torn edges of clothing - bottom, bottom of a sleeve, hem, collar, etc. in other cases, when the product is torn off the edge, it is better to use appliques, various patches or patches... More on this in the next article. Stay tuned!
As already noted, the sleeves are most often worn along the hem line and near the elbow.
Repair of sleeves along the bottom line is carried out in two ways.
The first way. The lining in the sleeve is straightened and stitched to it above the elbow, then it is stripped off from the bottom of the sleeve and the front and elbow seams are ripped off. At the same time, the front and elbow seams of the top of the sleeve are ripped apart at a distance of 18-20 cm. The ripped sleeves are cleaned of dust, and the seams are ironed out.
The worn edges of the lower and upper halves are cut so that the cut line runs at the level of the fabric preserved from wear.
Strips cut from them are sewn to the lower and upper halves of the sleeves, if they fit, or new strips of the same fabric are taken.
The seams of the stitches are ironed out, the edges of the parts are grinded along the front and elbow cuts of the sleeves and ironed out. After that, the lower edges of the sleeves are processed in the usual way. In fig. 32, 1 shows the bottom of the sleeve after sewing the strip to its bottom edge.
This repair method is used if the sleeve length, reduced by 1.5-2 cm, will satisfy the customer.
Second way. The sleeve is ripped open and prepared for repair, as in the first method.
After that, the worn edge of the bottom of the sleeve is ground with a strip of fabric A (Fig. 32, II), matched to the color of the main fabric. The seams of the strips stitched to the halves of the sleeves are ironed out, the front and elbow edges of the sleeves are connected and finally ironed.
The front seam of the sleeve is unstitched only when the edge of the lower half is more worn out than the upper one. In this case, the extensions (strips) are sharpened separately to each half of the sleeve, and then the front edges of the sleeve parts are grinded.
If the wear of both edges of the halves of the sleeve is approximately the same, then the front seam is not unstitched, and the bottom of the sleeve is ground with one strip of fabric and the seam is tightly ironed. Edging B is made from the stitched strip (Fig. 32, II), with which the sleeve length is lengthened by the required amount.
Rice. 32. Sleeve bottom after repair: I - sleeve bottom without piping on the front side; II - sleeve bottom with piping on the front side; A - strip for bottom decoration; B - sleeve lining; B - hem of the sleeve bottom.
The piping width can be different, but it is the same along the entire bottom of the sleeve. Kant B is swept up and ironed tightly, after which they proceed to repair the sleeve lining.
Replace the worn-out sections of the lining with new ones, then grind the front and elbow edges of the lining and sew it to the bottom of the sleeves.
To mask the seam, stitching strips to the bottom of the sleeves in women's coats and jackets sometimes make additional stitches parallel to the seam, or tabs that close the seam.
Elbow sleeve repair. In addition to abrasion, the fabric on the sleeve in the elbow area undergoes significant stretching during the bending of the sleeve. Therefore, the sleeve near the elbow wears out faster than elsewhere. Repair it as follows.
1. Strip the lining along the bottom of the sleeve and along the line of the elbow seam.
2. Clean the elbow seam from accumulated dust.
3. The elbow seam of the upper sleeve is ripped apart by 20-25 cm on the segment AB (Fig. 33, I).
4. Iron the elbow seam and the section of the sleeve around the worn area.
5. Check the strength of the fabric on the sleeve around the worn area and set the size of the patch. Worn fabric is marked with chalk lines.
6. A shallow worn section of the fabric is cut out of the half of the sleeve.It is recommended to cut this section at right angles to the weft and warp threads, as shown in fig. 33, I.
7. On the cut out piece B, cut out a patch D for repair, which in length and width should be 2 cm larger than the cut out piece.
The warp and weft threads should run along the patch cuts along the line: 1-2; 1-3 and 2-4 (Fig. 33).
Rice. 33. Left sleeve: I - before repair; II - after repair; A — B - a piece of a ripped seam; In a patch for mending sleeves; 1, 2, 3 and 4 - the boundaries of the worn out fabric.
Patch D needs to be adjusted according to the pattern of the fabric of the sleeve.
8. The cut patch is sewn into the sleeve. The line connecting the patch with the sleeve is laid on the side of the patch, 8-10 mm wide.
9. After inserting the patch, the seam is sewn with a thin needle and silk thread in the color of the top material. It is recommended to unlock the seam when repairing a combed sleeve.
10. The patch seam is ironed out until its edges are fully adhered.
11. Specify by cutting the elbow edges of the sleeves at the places where the patch is sewn.
12. Sew the ripped edges of the upper and lower halves along the line of the elbow slices on the segment AB (Fig. 33.1).
13. Iron the stitched seam until the edges fit completely, as well as the entire sleeve.
14. Attach the lining seam to the elbow seam of the upper with a slight lining fit.
15. Sew the lining along the bottom of the sleeve with a blind hem stitch.
16. The finished sleeve is ironed and steamed (fig. 33, II).
If the sleeve is made of woolen, woolen or other well-folded fabrics, then the worn out area can be repaired with a piece. However, the piece is very fragile and is used in exceptional cases.
Leather goods look very stylish, but due to the nature of the material, they require constant care. If the inevitable happens, and your favorite thing is ruined, you need to know how to fix a leather jacket and return it to its former appearance..
Of course, you can go to a clothing repair shop, but the services of professionals are usually quite expensive. You can deal with the most common problems and defects on your own. It is enough to allocate some time for the recovery procedure and strictly follow these recommendations. Thus, you "reanimate" the product, giving it a second life.
This is perhaps the most common problem among leather jacket owners. As soon as you catch on a poorly hammered nail, iron fence or other sharp object, an ugly cut will remain on the thing, spoiling its appearance. First, you need to figure out what the gaps can be.
On a note! The most common are two cases: either a piece of skin is torn out completely, or the cut will be in the shape of a corner. Note that recovery procedures in these spirit situations are fundamentally different.
To begin with, we propose to consider step-by-step instructions on how to fix a leather jacket if it has a “corner” gap.
- Turn the garment inside out. Look for a stitched seam on one of the sleeves, and then gently open it. It is most convenient to work on a clean, level, well-lit surface, so think beforehand about where you will perform the procedure. Unfold the jacket, then stick your hand through the ripped hole. You need to find the gap on the wrong side.
- Fold the product flat on the table, and place the load on the patched area. Heavy books or a canned jar will do. Leave the jacket in this position for a day.
- After the required time has passed, treat the gluing line with a special cream paint for leather. This will help mask the seam and give the surface an even color.
- Now you just have to sew up the lining and enjoy the result of the work done.
Every owner of such a thing should know how to fix a hole in a leather jacket.
After all, you need to act in this situation immediately. If restoration measures are not taken in time, then you can damage your favorite thing even more, and its appearance will be forever ruined.
On a note! Note that as soon as you find the torn area, you should secure it with a plaster from the wrong side.
This will prevent further material creep. This is especially true if you are away from home, and time and money does not allow you to start the repair. Consider options for solving the most common problems and situations in which they are best used.
- We sew up. This method is quite radical, but if the hole is quite large, then you simply cannot do without it. It will be problematic to glue the torn skin area, so it is better to prepare threads, a suitable patch and a machine. So, now let's look at how to fix a leather jacket at home. First, you need to open the lining after turning the product inside out. Then carefully trim the edges of the hole to make it easier to pick up the patch and to make the damaged area look neat after the repair. It is also very important to choose the material of the desired texture and color for the patch. If you do everything right, the jacket will look like new, and the place where the hole was will be completely invisible. You will need two patches: one can be made of any material, as it is attached from the inside, and the second - exclusively from leather that matches the jacket, because we will sew it on from the outside. By the way, their size should be 1-2 cm larger than the incision on all sides. Attach the selected patches and sew them on. Experts recommend choosing a sturdy needle for this procedure, which is designed for working with leather things. If you neglect this advice, you can not only ruin the jacket, but also damage the sewing machine.
You can eliminate small holes and cuts in this area using one of the above methods. I would like to consider in more detail the instructions on how to repair the collar of a leather jacket if it deteriorates from prolonged use and untimely cleaning. It is no secret that in the process of wearing, the skin is exposed to various contaminants. One of the most common is grease in the collar, which greatly spoils the appearance of the product. Let's see how you can deal with this problem and return the jacket to its former cleanliness. To work, you will need aviation gasoline and special paint for leather.
Spray the affected area with gasoline and then let it dry. The procedure must be repeated 2-3 times. During this time, you will see that the greasy spots disappear, and the thing takes on its usual color. Naturally, such processing will not remain without a trace, therefore it is necessary to apply a paint of a suitable tone.
This should be done with a special sponge in one layer, evenly painting over every centimeter of the surface. For best results, professionals recommend applying a protective gloss over the paint.
Before using this method, test its effect on a small area of the skin, and only then proceed with the restoration of the entire collar. This will help prevent damage and ensure that the product does not deteriorate.
Every day there are more and more modern methods that greatly simplify the procedure for restoring leather items. If you know how to repair a leather jacket with liquid leather, you can quickly, effectively and efficiently deal with many types of damage.
The finishing cuff can be processed with a cuff, turning it in a circle, while leaving a gap of 3-4 cm along the bottom line for turning the cuff, after which this gap is hemmed with blind hem stitches.
In addition to the snap-on cuffs, the bottom of the sleeves can be processed with closed and straight cuffs. The closed cuff is folded across with the front side inward, the cuts are leveled and the transverse edges are grinded with a seam 0.5 - 0.7 cm wide, the seam is ironed out.
Straight cuffs are folded in half along the part with the front side inward and the ends are ground with a seam 0.5 - 0.7 cm wide. The seam in the corners is trimmed, leaving an allowance of 0.3 - 0.4 cm. The cuff is twisted, the corners are straightened and the ends are swept. The cuff is ironed on.
Depending on the type of product and fabric, the cuffs with sleeves are connected in two ways.
The first way... The cuff is folded with the bottom of the sleeve with the front side inward and swept from the side of the sleeve with straight sweeping stitches at a distance of 0.6 - 0.9 cm from the edge. Then the cuff is stitched from the side of the cuff, leveling on the sleeve of the assembly, the cut edge of the cuff is folded inward by 0.7 - 1 cm, stitched to the sleeve, closing the stitching seam, and hemmed with blind hem stitches.
Second way... The cuff is folded with the bottom of the sleeve, combining the cuff with the wrong side, stitched and stitched at a distance of 0.6 - 0.9 cm from the edge, then the cuff is folded back and the cut edge is folded inward, stitched to the sleeve with straight basting stitches, closing the seam of attaching the cuff, and adjusted from the front side at a distance of 0.1 cm from the folded edge.
- EMBROIDERY (688)
- cross borders (39)
- people: girls, children (3)
- beadwork (25)
- embroidery in different techniques (78)
- cross stitch for the kitchen (56)
- Easter embroidery (12)
- Christmas cross stitch (19)
- embroidery: techniques and secrets of craftsmanship (51)
- embroidered paintings and pillows (173)
- embroidered motifs, flowers, berries, fruits (117)
- embroidered tablecloths, napkins (17)
- embroidered alphabet, monograms (6)
- my wishlist in embroidery (92)
- monochrome cross (59)
- re-sets of embroidery patterns (25)
- wedding, amulet, family (110)
- hearts with a cross (22)
- fairies, angels (86)
- KNITTING for luxurious ladies (14)
- HOOK KNITTING (993)
- crochet blouses (171)
- crochet bolero and capes (71)
- crochet jumpers (53)
- jacket, vest, cardigan crochet (208)
- crochet coat (37)
- crochet dresses (241)
- crochet pullovers (67)
- works of Polina40 (14)
- crochet sundresses (15)
- crochet tunics (58)
- crochet skirts (119)
- KNITTING (1036)
- blouses, knitted blouses (92)
- bolero and knitted capes (18)
- knitted jumpers (143)
- jacket, vest, cardigan knitting (292)
- knitted coat (85)
- dresses, sundresses knitting (158)
- pullovers knitting (182)
- knitted sweaters (40)
- Tops with needles (17)
- tunic knitting (45)
- crochet and knitting shorts, trousers (6)
- knitted skirts (21)
- TWO IN ONE (208)
- knitting + crochet (57)
- fabric + knitting (152)
- KIDS (513)
- crochet girls (74)
- girls knitting (63)
- for babies (68)
- crochet boys (41)
- boys knitting (85)
- learning by playing (114)
- we sew clothes for children (91)
- HOUSING: Renovation and Design (126)
- kitchen and bathroom (10)
- renovation from building option (52)
- renovation from building option1 (6)
- LIVE BY POCKET (46)
- beauty does not require sacrifice (7)
- inexpensive and tasty (14)
- we save in housekeeping (26)
- INTERESTING about miscellaneous (1006)
- I believe and hope. (21)
- magazines-books: knitting, sewing (119)
- we earn with pleasure. (76)
- ideas without description (51)
- cinema (215)
- computer tricks (41)
- magic of life (92)
- about keeping a diary (33)
- psychology (83)
- travel (15)
- miscellaneous (153)
- Russia and about Russia - from now to century (16)
- in tune with the soul. VERSES (95)
- IRELAND: models, diagrams and MK (267)
- LEATHER AND FUR (113)
- SUITS knitted: two-piece sets (121)
- BEAUTY AND HEALTH (430)
- diet and slimness (66)
- health (109)
- face and body care (42)
- COOKERY (993)
- chicken dishes (93)
- pasta dishes (6)
- vegetable dishes (43)
- microwave (8)
- side dishes (16)
- mushrooms (5)
- blanks (62)
- snacks (22)
- elegant, festive (25)
- culinary secrets & tips (6)
- meat (88)
- drinks (13)
- savory pastries (62)
- fish (55)
- salads (34)
- sweet pastries and desserts (284)
- soups (2)
- SUMMER and for summer knitting (606)
- swimwear we sew and knit (56)
- crochet summer jackets (51)
- summer sweaters and blouses (89)
- summer dresses, crochet sundresses (157)
- crochet summer tops (135)
- crochet summer tunics (50)
- knitting summer clothes (36)
- crochet summer skirts (80)
- FURNITURE (78)
- the furniture was old. (50)
- DIY furniture (42)
- MY AND ABOUT ME (808)
- my days, discoveries and joys. )) (317)
- My MK and close to them (32)
- my knitting work (37)
- my handicraft works (64)
- my sewing works (128)
- my poems, prose and reflections (18)
- my wishlist (200)
- my family (142)
- MY TRAVELS OF THE PAST AND FUTURE (64)
- Europe (19)
- Dreams for next summer. (eight)
- Russia + Crimea (28)
- Turkey (9)
- MEN (33)
- ALTERATIONS: old - new (285)
- leather (30)
- fur and knitwear (81)
- old jeans (75)
- shoes (19)
- various alterations (85)
- clothing repair (40)
- Collections by topic (55)
- USEFUL ABOUT VARIOUS (233)
- orders: info, models, tips (17)
- fashion, style and harmony of color (78)
- yarn, translators, programs (67)
- photography secrets and photoshop (23)
- family and children (32)
- cords (10)
- NEEDLEWORK (1761)
- cooking soap, scrub and gel (56)
- Spring: 14.02.8.03, Easter (40)
- polyethylene knitting (9)
- knitted umbrellas (28)
- knitted bags (132)
- warm handles and neck (9)
- decoupage (37)
- for fluffy charms (14)
- storage and ordering containers (135)
- all sorts of toys (52)
- gift ideas (169)
- ideas for a comfortable life (54)
- interesting crafts (112)
- kitchen and textiles (98)
- new year and everything about it. )) (109)
- weaving from. newspapers (21)
- pillows, blankets, bedspreads (69)
- order in the handicraft kingdom (80)
- bed linen (17)
- patchwork (18)
- sweet-design (candy) (47)
- scrapbooking (189)
- slippers and other footwear (36)
- gift wrapping (28)
- covers (42)
- hats, etc. hats (65)
- curtains (57)
- we sew a bag, cosmetic bag, etc. (244)
- labels, tags, etc. (5)
- WEDDING and everything about her (610)
- our wedding diary (57)
- wedding-2: turquoise and butterflies (35)
- KNITTING TECHNIQUES (123)
- non-tear knitting (4)
- Ribbon Lace (77)
- tunisian crochet (22)
- fillet knitting (19)
- TECHNOLOGY of knitting and assembly (455)
- hook (33)
- spokes (52)
- PATTERNS and different finishes (452)
- border, strapping, etc. (70)
- lace (28)
- crochet patterns (43)
- knitting patterns (38)
- MASTER (209)
- housekeeping (132)
- indoor flowers (75)
- FLOWERS from different materials (146)
- paper flowers (41)
- flowers from leather and fur (5)
- flowers from ribbons and fabric (76)
- crochet flowers (17)
- different flowers (22)
- SHAWL, stoles, poncho (197)
- SEWING (881)
- blouses, tops, blouses, corsets (54)
- combination of fabrics (6)
- interesting details (3)
- trousers, skirts, shorts, overalls (41)
- evening and wedding dresses (71)
- for gorgeous ladies (24)
- waiting for the stork (8)
- correction of defects in sewn things (13)
- collections and models haute couture (18)
- correction of patterns according to the peculiarities of the figure (24)
- jackets, coats, jackets, etc. (53)
- 50s fashion (49)
- 50s fashion part 2 (47)
- modeling 1 (50)
- modeling 2 (50)
- modeling 3 (66)
- zipper and other fasteners (37)
- features of working with different fabrics (53)
- dresses, sundresses, tunics (122)
- beachwear (11)
- construction of a pattern of the basis of different types (24)
- sewing and fitting (50)
- tailoring and fitting2 (51)
- tailoring and fitting3 (54)
- useful collection of sewing (206)
- secrets of craftsmanship (92)
- cutting secrets (18)
- Lessons from Burdastyle (22)
- sewing utility from Oksana (75)
- seams, corners, oblique, edging and other (86)
- we sew underwear and home clothes (16)
- we sew from fur (29)
- express models: quick and easy! (97)
One-sided knitting. Used for knitting hats and as a finishing strip. Quantity
Jackets. Ideas for Elena. Lena, and these are jackets. What I found in the "bins". Stega.
Tunics. Ideas for elegant Elena. Lena, seeing your request for new ideas, rummaged in her.
Pattern of a women's sweatshirt with a swing fastener.
... Usually we are offered to reduce or increase the pattern in a simple way. It is necessary once.
Repairing clothes and household items is, in my opinion, the most difficult process. It would seem, what is easier, to sew a hole or hammer in a carnation. But this will already be a “fix” of the thing, ie. the thing will still be, as it were, not very much. But to repair it so that you don't understand where the very repair took place - this is virtuosity and talent. It is for this reason that I always collect everything I can find on this topic: who knows where and what one of my relatives will tear-burn-break?
Here is another find on the site Sewing beautifully by Elena Krasovskaya. She loves customizing in all its forms, and although in general this type of needlework attracts me little, but a useful idea was found!
"Yes, I am again about clothes repair! This jacket was “crippled” by my husband at the end of last winter. I wonder - how do they do it? The youngest of my men has no difficulty in tearing a turtleneck or trousers, and the older one presents such “surprises” with other clothes.
Sometimes, I am very jealous of girls' moms!
In any case, just throwing away the torn thing, my hand does not rise. You have to invent something so that the product can be worn again.
This time I will make an “unusual patch”, rather even a non-patch, but an extension made of a different fabric.
If you also have such unforeseen situations, my experience should be useful to you. And don't forget to subscribe to blog updates. HERE, for sure, this is not the last article on repair.
So, the jacket looked like this - the bottom edge is torn, or rather a piece of fabric is torn!
I find more or less a suitable piece of fabric (jacket fabric), cut out a long strip.
Its dimensions are determined taking into account the width of the lower edge of the jacket: the length is equal to the length of the lower cut of the back part, and I took the width so that the strip covers the torn edge on both sides, plus allowances for the width of the seam.
The result is a strip about 50 cm long, about 15 cm wide.I duplicate it with non-woven fabric
Carefully remove all protruding threads, put a glue web under the cut sections and gently iron it, fixing the edges of the gap. You can, of course, do without this technological operation, but it is safer this way.
Immediately I iron the edge of the prepared strip inward on three sides - a long one and two short ones (the layer of the fabric to be sewn is thick, so unnecessary pressing will not hurt, and it is much more convenient to sew along the already fixed edge).
I mark the center of the backrest and the middle of the strip, for precise alignment of parts.
To reduce the thickness and to avoid bias grinded materials, chipping off the fabric along the bottom edge of the jacket.
I apply the prepared strip with the right side to the seamy side of the jacket with a non-ironed cut! and grind.
View with an already sewn strip.
Then I wrap the bottom of the jacket with a strip, first I pin it, and then I line it exactly to the edge.
The result is this new bottom edge of the jacket.
And here is the "updated" jacket itself. I AM stitched the stitched strip along the bottom edgejackets in the middleto better secure and make the edges tighter.
The jacket can now be worn again, and I have to wait for the next "surprise".
This repair method is well applicable when needed. repair torn edges of clothing - bottom, bottom of a sleeve, hem, collar, etc. in other cases, when the product is torn off the edge, it is better to use appliques, various patches or patches... More on this in the next article. Stay tuned!
Best wishes, Elena Krasovskaya! https://my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/2821 “
Cited 9 times
Liked: 5 users
Greetings to everyone who looked at my master class.
I continue with the topic of clothing repairs.
Today we are repairing a down jacket for men.
A gust of raincoat fabric in the most conspicuous place - on the back in the center.
Usually, in such cases, I look for a suitable raincoat fabric in the color of the main fabric or companion fabric (gray in this case, like on the sleeves), and make some kind of curly detail, tweak it from above to the place of the rush, or change part of the back or shelf, depending on the location rush.
In this case, let's go for the least resistance. We consider the inside of the jacket.
I liked one of the internal labels with the manufacturer's name, without unnecessary information, black. The size is sufficient to close the gust.
Fits in the side seam of the lining next to the inner pocket.
We will tune this label directly to the rush.
We look where to rip the lining so that it is convenient to adjust, as well as whip the label.
In the photo - the inner part of the jacket, the back, on top - the collar, below - the yoke, which is adjusted to the main part of the back lining, we will rip this seam, since it is closest to the center of the back.
We unpick, not reaching the armholes of the sleeves, about 3 cm.
Consider insulation. This is a down pad made of dense fabric on both sides, if you damage it, then down will sprinkle. In the area of the neck, it would be possible to rip off the gasket by disassembling the collar, then unstitch the stitch on the back that connects the raincoat fabric with the gasket, and stitch the label only on the raincoat fabric, then restore the stitch again and collect the collar - but I will not do this, since the work is very laborious and time consuming.
Therefore, we will adjust directly to two layers, the front raincoat fabric and the gasket.
First, we evaporate the desired label.
To save time, we unpick only the seam seam, do not touch the overlock stitch, but simply cut the label close to the overlock seam.
This is what comes out of the face pad.
Sew the seam that we ripped open to cut the label.
This is what it will look like from the front of the pad.
Then we glue the glue with a cobweb, glue the raincoat fabric directly onto the gasket.
We align the side edges on the label, ironing them to the wrong side, the upper cuts of the labels are usually sealed, so they can not be folded.
We outline the center on the label and the center on the jacket.
We apply it to the back of the jacket.
We have already glued the gap, now you can glue the label (this is done so that during the sewing process, the details do not move relative to each other).
Customize the label by pulling the lining from the inside of the jacket.
Now you need to stitch the lining.
Since we have violated the initial technological sequence for assembling the jacket, it will not be possible to simply stitch the yoke onto the back of the lining, otherwise the seam will be on the front of the jacket on the back.
Therefore, we fold the back yoke and back lining inside out to each other and grind with a seam with closed sections.
As you can see, the entire jacket is left to the left of the seam.
Sew at a distance of 1-2 mm from the edge.
Iron the seam, a slightly damp spot is from the iron.
Video (click to play). |
The main thing is that all wet-heat operations can be carried out only through an iron pad (gauze, thin cotton fabric).