DIY uaz hunter steering gear repair

Power steering power steering, device, repair, operation.

Attention! A proven method!
With the help of a modified pump puller VAZ 01-07 (worth a penny) and two M8 bolts 65 mm long. When working, consider three points
1.holes in the steering wheel hub are not drilled through 180 degrees
2.Cut off the jumper between the hole and the end of the puller with a grinder
3.Fake steering wheels do not have technological holes in the hub and this method will not help
Notes:
1. On sale there are pump pullers of different thickness - the correct one is the one> = 10mm.
2. Before picking up the grinder, you need to try on the puller on the handlebars and outline the direction of future cuts. The grinder will have to work seriously.
3. Screw the bolts (those that are M8) into the holes on the steering wheel and necessarily lock on the reverse side with nuts. (otherwise the thread will rip off)
Press down with the screw (M10) included in the puller kit.
Photo of the modified puller, puller assembly. Large diameter nuts act as non-crease washers.

The same problem came up. I had to throw the steering wheel over a couple of slots, so I could not remove it. I had to disconnect the steering shaft and rearrange it in the splines. There is a barbaric way, but this steering wheel is painfully flimsy for him to the touch. You can unscrew the retaining nut, disconnect the shaft and loosen the steering column bearing. One pulls the steering wheel towards itself, and the other hits the end of the steering shaft with a heavy hammer. You can make a fittings from a nut screwing onto the steering shaft by half of its thread and a bolt screwing into this nut. And it is more convenient to knock on the bolt.

I have one that they put on the latest new UAZs, so it can be removed with a puller without problems. There, under the plastic patch, there are two special holes for this purpose.

Everything is very simple - you need a thick (5-6 mm) plate with two holes for M8 bolts screwed into the steering wheel hub. The plate rests on the shaft, the bolts are tightened, the wheel is pulled together. You can drill holes in place by measuring the distance between the holes with a vernier caliper.

A 15x15 corner is taken, a piece of length is sawn off from it

20 cm.In it, in turn, 2 holes are drilled at a distance the same as the holes in the steering wheel (2 threaded holes into which the bracket for the bibical is passed), it is applied to the steering shaft and wrapped through the holes through the corner, which was two fools bolt М8. The bolts pull the steering wheel towards themselves, and the corner, respectively, rests on the shaft, the steering wheel is pulled together. I changed mine from the usual to the luxury one. And I wanted to help my friend remove the new steering wheel on the zero car - so he unscrewed his head nafig on one bolt - then he spent an hour turning out the stub - so make up your mind.

Before shooting, pour VDshka or Unisma! It will go easier !!
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It is pulled up by a simple device made from a sheet of an old spring. You take a leaf of the spring and bend one edge of it (cm 5-7) under 90 degrees. With this thing, the steering tips are very easily tightened, only the wheels must be removed so that they do not interfere.

Can be tightened with a chisel. To do this, you will have to remove the rods (not the tips, but all the rods - while the convergence will not suffer) and holding the hinges in a vice, release the plugs (by unscrewing or twisting, if necessary. I tightened harder than in the primer - all the way and 1/4 back. everything is OK.By the way, even the new tips are wrapped 2.5 turns.
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To adjust the gearbox, unscrew the cap nut on the side of the gearbox housing (a large one, a key for 28 or 30, I used an adjustable one), remove the lock washer, tighten the adjusting screw with a “square” until the backlash is eliminated and assemble in the reverse order. It is also necessary to check the condition of the ends of the steering rods, very often the steering backlash is due to them.

Before adjusting the steering wheel - to the central position and tighten not according to the most "I do not want", but wisely. The witness himself, when the worm in the over-tightened gearbox was biting into extreme positions. Very unpleasant, especially on the road.
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It so happened that on my 91 thousand "loaf" the resource of the steering gear was completely exhausted. That is, the backlash was not eliminated by the adjusting screw, moreover, it became very tight to turn the steering wheel. In short, I decided to change the entot device. I read the ABC book, bought a new gearbox. and on Saturday together with a friend began to poke around. The first thing they ran into was the removal of the steering wheel. You need a special puller, and instead only a set consisting of a hammer and a sledgehammer and a long list of obscene expressions. After an unsuccessful hour of work with this set, the commander's decision came to cut off the steering column with a "grinder". No sooner said than done, only the people from the neighboring garages looked at this operation in a strange way. Next, you need to remove the steering bipod. There was a puller for this operation, but in the process of its implementation it was gone. I had to remove the cover with the adjusting screw, insert a “locomotive” key between the gearbox housing and the steering bipod and separate these parts with the blows of a 10-kg sledgehammer on the steering bipod shaft. The remnants of the old gearbox were thrown away, the transmission synthetics (GL5) were poured into the new one and everything was put in place.
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UAZ does not produce military bridges + power steering vehicles (except for "Bars"). In my opinion, the problem is that military bridges have a greater angle of rotation of the wheel (or it is known that the power steering is unreliable.) not one of the strongmen), on bumps I try not to turn the steering wheel too much unnecessarily (or do I see some special bumps?) [Commodore]

I have had a power steering for a year (with military bridges), and I must say that I am very pleased with it.
1. The car has excellent maneuverability - since the angle of rotation of the wheels of the military is greater, the light steering wheel when parking allows you to turn literally on the spot. Try to do the same operation without power steering.
2. On the track, the car reacts less to irregularities, it is easier to keep it on a straight line, and there is zero, although not the same as on foreign cars.
3. Off-road is easier than an example - over bumps and ruts!
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In my opinion, this is a matter of habit. There is one more thing. What did you drive before? The base is short, so it prowls along the road. This is not even a generic feature of the Ulyanovsk all-terrain vehicles, but a feature inherent in all short-range vehicles. So far I have been driving the "goat" and have not noticed any yaw. Hands themselves already automatically corrected the movement of the car imperceptibly for me. But as soon as I took a ride in a long-wheelbase car, I was horrified when I got into my own “goat”. And before that I went and did not notice.

The problem can be solved, but only in a complex. Install a steering damper, good shock absorbers, eliminate all backlash in the steering rods, gearbox, swingarm, bearings, etc. and install good tires. It will get much better. But it won't be perfect anyway, it's not VW. You just have to get used to it. Do not think that if the car is new, then there is still no backlash. That is why (because the car is new) it is still very poorly made. Everything must be checked and tightened / changed / adjusted. If done by hand, everything will be fine.

1. Eliminate imperfections and backlashes. 2. Get used to 3. Not voiced by previous speakers: there are Guras with, so to speak, with a "minor" drawback - the actuation of this device with a slight delay, with zero information content of the steering wheel, this leads to "overrun".
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In fact, it is more reliable, and by the way and cheaper, imported from disassembly, for example from Chevrolet. In Vadik's "Black Cuttlefish", for example, there is, after two of our untimely dead.

I myself got myself a hydrach on a UAZ, I attached a W-123 body from Merce. I installed the gearbox without any problems, but I had to tinker with the pump. Put it together with the steering column and all the switches and the ignition switch! And it took about two days, taking into account all the preparatory work!

Joint production product of Avtodetal-Service OJSC (St.Ulyanovsk) and the firm “ZF Lenksysteme” (Germany) for the production of a Power steering gear (31608-3400500) (hereinafter “Mechanism”) for UAZ vehicles: passenger cars 3160, 3162, 3163 and trucks UAZ 2360- “Pickup”.

The complete set of the "Mechanism" includes parts manufactured by ZFLS (Germany): a high-pressure pump, a distributor with a screw and a piston - with a rack assembly, needle injection and drain hoses, an oil tank, a tank clamp, a bracket, a pump holder, a poly V-belt pulley , fasteners.

Test tests gave the following results (tests were carried out on a serial UAZ-31622):
1. Effort on the steering wheel: to the left 2.0 kgf; to the right 2.6 kgf;
2. Speed ​​of self-return of the steering wheel: 246 degrees / sec;
3. Changeover speed: 76.1 km / h;
4. Speed ​​of turning R 35 m: 69.5 km / h;
5. Transfer ratio of the steering mechanism: 17.23.
The sale of a complete set of power steering gear is made by Tehresurs LLC.
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You can rotate, but it is undesirable to ride like this for a long time. This option was from the factory - a gearbox from a power steering, but there was no pump and other things. He traveled several thousand - then the backlash in the gearbox increased.
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The invention is not mine, it is from the ancients and the chorus. forgotten "experienced advice". In quality anthers USE ball finger covers from ZAZ-968 A, M, slightly cutting them off from above.
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A complete list of components, as well as a drawing and description of the power steering, installation procedure, operation and maintenance of the power steering HERE.

According to rumors, Sterlitamak is of better quality than Borisov, although it is "tighter" (the gear ratio is less). Outwardly, the Sterlitamak hoses run one after the other from above, while the Borisov hoses run one on top and one on the side.

According to the Ulyanovsk craftsmen, the Borisov power steering is more reliable. Also, power steering, in my opinion, differ in the number of revolutions of the steering wheel (3 and 5).

The Borisov power steering is really very powerful, even on 35s with -19 discs it turns without feedback. But Sterlitamak is much more informative.

The plant does not make wagon-type cars with power steering - the issue is being resolved; cars of a wagon layout, on gear axles and with power steering (and without power steering) does not at all.

Everything turned out surprisingly well for me. Although at first I found out that power boosters are not put on a loaf. But there was no strength to fight with the steering wheel (especially on the off-road) and decided to mount the usual UAZ hydraulic booster by means of a cunning bracket. From Ulyanovsk, they brought me a factory kit for installation on the UAZ-31514. When I found out what these hydraulic boosters are doing in Belarus in the glorious city of Borisov, we decided to go to the plant with a mechanic - to consult. And lo and behold - it turns out a month ago the factory workers made 5 hydraulic boosters specifically for loaves and went to Ulyanovsk to offer them to UAZ, but UAZ refused this development under the pretext that the stamping of the body had to be changed for this wetsuit. So they came back with these gidrikas (luckily for us). In short, we bought ourselves one for $ 50. Became like a native. With the steering column, I was a little perverted - I put MAZovskaya, with an adjustable tilt. As for the stamping, there was no need to cut the floor. car lifted under the 33rd rubber.
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There is the most traditional rack-and-pinion worm gearbox, it is good precisely because it is light - it is easy to turn on the spot, and on the track, but it returns to zero itself, just hold it. The same is bad - on bumps it “responds” with lightning speed and mercilessly - I, having broken two fingers with an old three-spoke steering wheel, put a weighted two-spoke steering wheel (in general, in my opinion, it is the most convenient of the existing ones).

The second option - Borisov or "luxury" has a powerful gearbox, due to which it is less sensitive, does not hit the hands, does not require strong steering on the track at high speeds. But it turns tighter than the first one and returns to zero itself less intensely, which, at least, annoys me.

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• Otto
• Participant
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• Inactive

• Where: 44 ° 42'46.7 "N 37 ° 46'50.9" E
• Registered: 18.09.2012
• Posts: 619

Gentlemen, the steering gear on the hunter began to leak. It flows from above, from under the flange, where the spline part of the shaft comes out. For three vessels, about 1 cm from the tank with the engine off.

I suspect it started after replacing the steering tips with a sledgehammer.
Who faced, tell me, is there a point to change the oil seal, or what is there? or it is necessary to change the entire gearbox assembly - it is somehow dumb - almost 8tyr
In general, the removal of the installation itself is too gimmicky? Where in NOvorossiysk, Gelendzhik, Kabardinka, Anapa can be done for money and how much would it cost?
Leave your phone number, or in a personal message with suggestions, if not difficult.
Thanks in advance.

By 10 km of run, an absolutely indecent backlash of about 30 degrees appeared on the steering wheel. The question arose: to change the guarantee either yourself or on YUBey.
Since time was enduring, then after rummaging through the forum, we managed to find Bumper's recommendation to combat backlash, it seemed available and was immediately put into operation. Based on the result, I can say so far: 500 km is a normal flight.

So:
Problem - backlash on the steering wheel
The method of struggle is an attempt to adjust without removing it from the car

We need:
-head 8 and head 10 (preferably 3-5 cm extension)
- ratchet
-hammer and chisel
- shock absorber key (see picture)
- “something” on which you can lie for a long time under the car and not freeze (in my case, a lounger with wheels and a headrest. It is very convenient. I did not need to jack the car)
-light (flashlight or carrying)

Sequencing:
-Unscrew the mudguard of the engine (3 bolts for 10 and 2 screws for 8)
-see the "ass" of the mechanism, clean out the dirt from the holes, insert the shock absorber key
-turn the "ass" clockwise 3-5mm
-check the backlash on the steering wheel with the engine off by lightly wiggling the steering wheel with the tip of one finger
- if the backlash remains, then it should definitely decrease
-turn the "ass" of the mechanism and also achieve the minimum backlash
-take a hammer and a chisel, bend the “ass” skirt into the recesses to prevent spontaneous movement
-check the backlash again
-If necessary, tighten the steering gimbal
- put in place the engine shield
- we are glad!

We tighten the "ass" very carefully - you can overtighten.
For example, I just precisely caught the point at which the backlash disappeared from me, turned a couple more mm and fixed this position. Those. I did not drag out further, although there was still a "ass" move.

The “ass” of the mechanism has bends of the skirt into the recesses of the body to prevent spontaneous unscrewing. When adjusting, I simply “rolled” them with an effort on the key, and then made new ones.

The whole work took 2 hours in a garage.

Mileage after adjustment was still 500 km. No problems found. I will follow the development of events.
In any case, the official documentation requires dismantling for adjustment, so I cannot promise the absence of the consequences of this method. I don’t know myself.

Photos are attached.
Good luck!

In the picture:
1- "Ass", 2-Skirt, 3-Notch

In the picture:
-Key shock absorber

Problem: the power steering gearbox dripped from the beginning, it dripped from the beginning, and then it started to leak, as if from a bucket, bought a repair kit for the cuffs and decided to repair it.

He unscrewed all the bolts and all connections and here he is on the ground

A patient. On the operating table, see what the autopsy shows

To begin with, it was necessary to remove the bipod from the shaft, it was necessary to make an impromptu puller.

Disassembly is simple: I unscrewed two bolts with locknuts that secure the covers, removed the cover retaining rings and, with a hammer, began to knock out the covers with a hammer on the shaft. Be careful, when they come out, a bunch of rollers will fall out, it is important not to lose them - these are the shaft bearings.

Here are the removed covers, we see inside a seal of three cuffs: two plastic, black and white, and between them a rubber ring

Removed shaft and cover seals

I replaced the cuffs and looking at the covers I saw that their holes were not in the center and realized that by scrolling them, the backlash in the worm connection of the gearbox was adjusted.

Then I disassembled the drive shaft cover (shaft on the steering wheel). There I replaced the oil seal and rubber rings in the cover. The main thing is not to unscrew the shaft from the piston, otherwise you will have problems for an hour. There are balls inside, which are then problematic to install in place.

Steering shaft cover with oil seal

When parsing, I saw why the leak began, due to the fact that the lid was not protected and the ingress of dirt and water made corrosion and risks on the shaft, in short, an ass, I don’t know if new cuffs will help

Without thinking for a long time, I decided to make a protective cap against dirt, and if I was lucky against oil leaks, if such would be over time. To do this, I drilled two holes and cut the threads for the screws.

I collected everything, adjusted all the gaps, by eye of course, and put it in place. There is no leak yet. The autopsy did not affect the work of the GUR almost in any way. Only by ear, it seems, he began to buzz less, but this is so, by ear. Operation will show.

This procedure is perhaps the most long-awaited, because I wanted a comfortable steering. All those gearboxes that were in the past either terribly backlash, then crunched and turned the wheels very tightly. I stopped at this set thanks to reviews on the internet. Among the Borisov and Sterlitomakovs, adequate and more or less reliable, you will not find it with fire in the daytime, and ready-made kits cost over 32 kilorubliks in our region. What was required for the installation:
1) It is the kit itself; 21500 RUR

The contents of the box, except that the pump forgot to shove it into the frame.

The pulley and fasteners, but where there is so much of it, is not clear. Will go to stock

2) Pump from ZMZ-409 E-2 with ADS gasket; 1400 RUR

3) Double pulley from the 514th ICE (mine) textolite; 330 RUR
4) The belt of the generator 2108 injection; 220 RUR

It is necessary to settle a small incident with the completeness of the power steering. I ordered a kit for a ZMZ-409 internal combustion engine, but with a reducer bipod for a spring suspension. The supplier kindly agreed to such a complete set, and after a week of waiting the set was already in the garage. Installation began the next day.

After reading reviews about the installation of such power steering, and, practically, a stupidly written book from a box, I realized that I would have to sweat.

To begin with, the question arose "Should I change the pump?" I read somewhere that a bracket with 2 bolts is screwed onto a 406 pump, but this is not very reliable, because if, nevertheless, the ears of the bracket break off, then not only will you be left without a power steering, but you will also have to buy a new expensive kit. I checked the backlash of my own pump and decided to change it to 409

The choice in our city was not great. Either "ZMZ" for 1900 ("not budgetary"), or "ADS" for 1400r (acceptable). The choice fell on the ADS. In the garage, of course, there was a pump that was practically new from a patriot, but a thin one goes from the E-3 motor and the nozzle to the thermostat, and therefore it would be necessary to change the thermostat case, which is also not very budgetary and you will not find it. We cut off the coolant, remove the belt, pulley, pipes, pump and install a new one and the power steering pump bracket.

... and installing a new one with a bracket (modified)

I'm going to run ahead right away: the bracket has undergone revision, namely, a groove was cut for the belt tension, because we will have a non-standard drive. We put the pump on the bracket (by the way, 2 fastening bolts from the kit were with coarse threads, and on the pump they were small - and wherever the packers were looking) with a tensioner, a pulley from the 514th for 2 belts on the pump, put on the pump drive belt, then 08 belt on the drive power steering pump, we pull and tighten everything.

Here is such a pump drive (read on one of the forums

We move under the left wing and dismantle the steering gear with the steering shaft. We put the gearbox from the kit, the bipod, the steering rod and tighten everything

Now the steering shaft. The new one was on one side under the slot, on the other under the wedge. It so happened that now a wedge is needed on both sides. Remove the tip for the wedge from the old one and repress it in place of the tip for the slot. Now you can put it in place. Now it's time to put on the hoses.And then there was an ambush. The high pressure hose was with 14mm lugs, but 14mm - 16mm was required.

In the morning I call the store and lay out the essence of the problem that the hose is not the same and there is no 16mm fitting with washers. By the evening, the item was received. We immediately continued the installation. First, release all copper washers for better compression. The high-pressure hose was held in front of the pump, because this way it twists less and there is practically no bending effort. Behind it, not only was it next to the exhaust manifold, but also bent to such an extent that it was difficult to screw it to the pump. He tightened it well and began to put the tank on the wing. Everything is simple there - we drill and fasten where we like it, so long as it does not interfere with the hood. And finally, we lay the remaining 2 hoses, cut them to length and tighten them with clamps. Lastly, I put the lower radiator pipe and the output to the RB. Everything got up perfectly, nothing presses or rubs anywhere, although you can get confused in the hoses. Finally, we fill in the system according to the manual (only this was useful)

and testing. The joy went off scale, silence from the GUR, the steering wheel was light and there were no backlashes, but there was no yaw or drift on the move.

I studied this topic for a long time, but basically they put a bump of power steering on loaves and tadpoles, but on 469 this design is much less common. So I decided to add my own five kopecks in revisions 469. In principle, the scheme is the same - a spool rod and a hydraulic cylinder and of course a pump, and the main difference is that the 469 needs a spool rod from GAZ 3309-08, its difference from thrust gas 66 in the location of the spool. On the gas 66 thrust, the spool is at the very end of the thrust and it wakes us up to rest against the spring, but from 3309 it suits us perfectly. Well, then it's a matter of technology, or whoever is good at it. Here is a photo of my version

Spool rod gas 3309 + part of the steering rod gas 52 (I bought the transverse rod gas 52, cut it to size, cut the thread and screwed gas 3309 into the rod part) and, well, the bipod had already been deployed under the cone of the gazelle tip.

Hydraulic cylinder gas-3309 aka gas-66

fastening the hydraulic cylinder to the bridge the hole for the hydraulic cylinder was drilled with a drill for 18, heated and punched with a cone, the diameter of our plate is 20 mm

well, and the mount of the gur pump, it stands in our factory place of the generator

Well, that's the whole power steering device, it remains to connect and put everything. I can't wait to try it out, it should turn out to be a powerful design.

A set of power steering ZF from BMW was purchased in the 28th body, for its implementation it took:
- bracket for mounting the power steering pump UAZ (in my opinion from 3160);
- manufacturing of adapter plate for steering machine;
- steering shaft cross;
- enlarged washers and replacement of the radiator mounting bolts (it needs to be lifted by 15-20mm);
- the bipod was not found from the Volga, so I made it welded from 2x (phot not, unfortunately);
- double-groove pulley of the crankshaft;
- 1250mm belt ...
The installation procedure has already been sucked more than once, so I will only say about the pitfalls:
1) my diameters of the flanges on the steering shaft differed by 1mm (Behovskaya already), so I had to carefully drill out,
2) the pump bracket had to be made a little shorter by cutting off a 10mm strip from it ...
3) the double-strand pulley had to be moved 10 mm forward, otherwise the belts do not stand up because of the pipes;
4) eventually had to bend the bipod upwards, otherwise it turned out to be the lowest point of the bridge, i.e. any serious obstacle could just break it down ...
in general, I am satisfied with the result - it is much easier to park in the city.

Installation of STABILUS steering damper in UAZ 31512
Installation of the "Rancho" damper in the UAZ 31512

Fig. 1. Steering gear with hydraulic booster GUR UAZ-Hunter 315195, UAZ-31519

1 - nut; 2, 5, 6, 17, 21, 23, 24, 37, 40 - sealing rings; 3 - glass; 4, 11 - thrust bearings; 7 - piston rack; 8 - screw; 9 - crankcase; 10, 18 - pins; 12 - connection of the injection hose; 13 - drain hose fitting; 14 - sleeve; 15 - cuff; 16 - torsion bar; 19 - ball guide; 20 - balls; 22 - channel in the crankcase; 25 - bipod; 26 - bipod nut; 27 - lower protective cover; 28 - retaining rings; 29 - adjusting washers; 30 - bipod shaft supports; 31 - rollers; 32 - bipod shaft; 33 - top protective cover; 34 - rotor; 35 - protective cap; 36 - distributor housing; 38 - channel in the distributor body; 39 - bolts of the distributor housing to the crankcase

- Fix the steering gear in a vise so that the delivery and drain holes (holes for the fitting) are at the bottom.

- Drain the oil from the mechanism by turning the rotor 34 (Fig. 1) or the spool shaft by hand.

- Press the rotor or spool shaft by hand along the axis and swing the bipod 25 (see Fig. 1).

- If the axial movement of the rotor or the spool shaft is felt, it is necessary to
adjust the tension of thrust bearings 4 and 11.

- To adjust the thrust bearings, use a bit and a hammer to straighten the bead collar 3, which is nailed into the grooves in the crankcase wall.

- Remove the gap by turning the bowl or nut clockwise.

- Check the torque of the rotor or spool shaft in the thrust bearings, it should be 2 Nm (0.2 kg / cm).

- If a gap is felt in the middle position of the UAZ-315195, UAZ-31519 bipod shaft when rocking the bipod, adjust the gearing, for which unscrew the nut 26 and remove the bipod.

- Remove the top and bottom covers 27 and 33.

- Remove the circlip 28 and the adjusting washers 29. Loosen the locknuts and unscrew the securing bolts 26 two to three turns.

- Straighten the shims 29.

- Turning simultaneously the supports 30 of the bipod shaft counterclockwise (when viewed from the side of the spline end of the bipod shaft), eliminate the meshing gap.

- Carry out the adjustment in the position of the bipod shaft UAZ-Hunter 315195, UAZ-31519, corresponding to the middle position of the toothed sector.

- Check the torque of the bipod shaft, it should be within 35–45 Nm (3.5–4.5 kg / cm) when moving over the middle position.

- Install the adjusting washers 29 and circlips 28, bend one of the antennae in both adjusting washers into the groove of the bipod shaft support.

- Tighten the locking bolts and locknuts 25 to a torque of 8-10 Nm (0.8-1.0 kg / cm).

- Install the parts in the reverse order of removal.

- Bleed air from the power steering system.

In case of failure of the power steering booster UAZ-Hunter 315195, UAZ-31519 due to damage to the pump, destruction of the hose or pump drive belt, or when towing
the vehicle, due to engine stop, use the steering gear only for a short time.

If there is no oil in the UAZ-Hunter 315195, UAZ-31519 hydraulic booster system, it is necessary to remove the pump drive belt, otherwise the pump may jam and the belt may break.

With the pump drive belt removed on cars with ZMZ engines, it is necessary to carefully monitor the temperature of the coolant, since the engine may overheat.

Prolonged operation of the vehicle with an inoperative hydraulic booster leads to premature wear of the steering mechanism.

Fig. 2. Power steering pump drive for UAZ-Hunter 315195, UAZ-31519 cars with UMZ engines

1 - tension screw; 2 - fastening bolts; 3 - pulley of the power steering pump; 4 - drive belt for the power steering pump; 5 - crankshaft pulley

The tension of the drive belt of the power steering pump UAZ-315195, UAZ-31519 (see Fig. 2) is carried out by moving the pump along the bracket for attaching to the engine.

To do this, loosen the bolts securing the pump to the bracket, move the pump with the tensioning screw until the belt tension is normal and tighten the pump mounting bolts.

Replace the belt if it is found to be damaged or if it is overstretched.

Checking the level and changing the hydraulic booster oil for power steering UAZ-Hunter 315195, UAZ-31519

When checking the oil level in the oil tank, the front wheels must be straight.

Add oil to the level of the filler mesh of the oil tank or not more than 5 mm higher than it.

The oil must be pre-filtered through a filter with a filtration fineness of no more than 40 microns.

Refuel the steering system UAZ-Hunter 315195, UAZ-31519 in the following order:

- Disconnect the bipod link from the bipod or hang out the front wheels.

- Remove the oil tank cap, fill in oil until it appears above the filter mesh (no more than 5 mm).

- Without starting the engine, turn the steering wheel or the input shaft of the mechanism from lock to lock until the end of the exit of air bubbles from the oil in the tank. Add oil to the tank.

- Start the engine while adding oil to the tank.

- In case of abundant foaming of the oil in the tank, which indicates that air has entered the system, stop the engine and let the oil settle for at least 20 minutes (until air bubbles leave the oil).

- Inspect the connection points of the hoses to the units of the power steering system UAZ-Hunter 315195, UAZ-31519 and, if necessary, eliminate the leaks.

- Let the engine run for 15 - 20 seconds and bleed the power steering system to remove residual air from the steering mechanism by turning the steering wheel from lock to lock, without holding it in the extreme positions, three times in each direction.

- If necessary, add oil to the tank.

- Close the tank with the lid and tighten the lid nut by hand.

- Attach the bipod rod, tighten and cotter the ball stud nut.

Rice. 3. Flow and safety valves of the power steering pump UAZ-Hunter 315195, UAZ-31519

1 - spool of the flow valve; 2 - safety valve spring; 3 - guide of the safety valve spring; 4 - safety valve ball; 5 - spool spring; 6-seat safety valve; 7 - filter; 8 - ring; 9 - plug-cap; 10 - sealing gasket; 11 - adjusting gaskets

Maintenance of the flow and safety valves of the power steering pump UAZ-Hunter 315195, UAZ-31519

If the flow and safety valves are dirty, flush them. To do this, do the following:

- Unscrew the plug 9 (Fig. 3) located above the outlet of the power steering pump UAZ-Hunter 315195, UAZ-31519.

- Take out the spring 5 and the spool 1 of the flow valve, and put the plug-plug in place, which will prevent the oil from leaking out.

- Unscrew the safety valve seat 6, remove the ball 4, guide 3 and spring 2. Remove the ring 8 and filter 7 from the safety valve seat.

- Rinse the parts and blow with compressed air.

- Assemble in the reverse order. Observe cleanliness during assembly.

- During disassembly and assembly, in order not to disturb the adjustment of the safety valve, do not change the number of shims 11.

To adjust the steering gear, it must be removed from the vehicle. For this:

1. Disconnect the delivery and return hoses from the steering gear and secure the hoses in such a way as to prevent the complete flow of oil from the hydraulic system.
2. Unscrew the nut and remove the wedge screw from the hinge yoke, remove the hinge yoke from the mechanism.
3. Disconnect the bipod link from the bipod.
4. Unscrew the mounting bolts and remove the steering gear.

Adjust the steering gear in the following sequence:

1. Clamp the steering gear in a vise with the delivery and drain holes at the bottom. By turning the steering input shaft by hand, drain the oil from the steering gear.
2. While lightly pushing the input shaft along its axis with your hand, rock the bipod. If axial movement of the input shaft is felt, adjust the bearing preload on the screw. For this:
   • using a beard and a hammer, carefully, without applying excessively strong blows, straighten the collar of the glass 3 (Fig. 219), fixed in the grooves of the crankcase wall 9;

Rice. 219. Power steering gear:
1 nut; 2,5,6,19,21,22,35,39 o-rings; 3-glass; 4.10-thrust bearings; 7-piston rack; 8-screw; 9-crankcase; 11-connection of the discharge hose; 12-connection of the drain hose; 13-sleeve; 14-cuff; 15 torsion bar; 16.38-pins; 17-ball guide; 18 balls; 20-channel in the crankcase; 23-bipod; 24-bipod nut; 25-bottom protective cover; 26 retaining rings; 27-adjusting washers; 28-bipod shaft support; 29 clips; 30-shaft bipod; 31-top protective cover; 32-rotor; 33-protective cap; 34-distributor body; 36-channel in the valve body; 37-bolts of fastening the distributor housing to the crankcase

The steering gear of the UAZ loaf, or, in technical terms, the steering gear housing, is fixed in the modifications of UAZ-3302, 3909, 2206 cars on the bracket of the left frame side member.

It is held on the frame by four M16 bolts with spring washers.At the factory, the bolts are tightened with a nutrunner with a tightening torque of 45 kgf / cm².

The working pair of the steering gear is a globoidal worm and a two-ridge roller. The worm pressed onto the hollow shaft is mounted in the steering housing on two tapered roller bearings.

To ensure the reliability of the connection between the shaft and the worm, a key ledge is made and splines are cut on the worm shaft. With the worm, a two-ridge roller is in constant engagement.

Its annular grooves, located inside, are the working surface for a double row ball bearing. It is mounted on an axle that is attached to the bipod shaft head.

This shaft rotates in two bearings at once: a bronze bushing pressed into the crankcase and a cylindrical roller bearing. This element is installed in the crankcase cover on the side of the steering gear.

The shank of the shaft head fits into the groove of the adjustment screw. It is screwed into the side of the crankcase cover. The adjustment screw is fixed with a pin and a lock washer, which are pressed into the cover. The mechanism is closed with a nut with a cap.

With its upper end, the steering shaft enters the bearing, rotating on it. The bearing is pressed into the column housing. The bearing spacer is held against movement by a special spring.

Adjustment operations are carried out to eliminate gaps. Due to frictional forces, they periodically appear between the roller and the worm. To detect the axial play of worm bearings, the crankcase is wrapped around the palm of one hand.

With the other hand, the steering wheel swings alternately in both directions.

If the bearings are worn, the pin senses axial beating of the hub relative to the column. In the absence of bearing clearances, only the engagement of the worm with the roller is adjusted.

The procedure for adjusting the roller relative to the worm:

• Remove the steering gear from the vehicle.
• Drain oil from crankcase.
• Fasten the mechanism in a vice.

• Unscrew the central nut, remove the lock washer from the adjustment screw.
• Remove the bolts securing the cover on the side of the gearbox.
• Remove the bipod shaft together with the roller and the cover, carefully tapping with a punch on the end of the bipod shaft, separate the gasket.
• Unscrew the bolts securing the lower crankcase cover, remove it.
• Carefully separate and remove the thin paper pad.

• Put the bottom cover in its original place, tighten the bolts, check the runout of the worm along the longitudinal axis.
• If the runout remains, remove the cover from the bottom again, remove the thick gasket, replace it with the thin one that was previously removed. Removing more than one gasket is not recommended.
• The tightening force of the bearings is checked by rotating the worm. If the tightening is correct, a force of 0.22 - 1.45 kgf is felt on the steering wheel. The check operation is carried out with a torque wrench with the bipod removed.

Dismantling of the steering gear of the UAZ loaf is carried out without removing the steering column from the car.

The procedure for conducting operations:

1. Remove the steering column joint tightening screw.
2. Unscrew the nut securing the steering gear bipod, remove it with a puller.
3. Remove the four bolts securing the steering box to the frame side member.
4. Remove the steering gear, drain the oil from the crankcase by unscrewing the plug from the bottom.

Having disassembled the mechanism, rinse, inspect the details. If you find on the working planes of the worm, screw, rack nut, shaft-sector, delamination of the heat treatment layer, cavities, excessive wear, cracks, they should be replaced immediately.

The bearings of the screw, the worm should be replaced with new ones if all adjusting shims are removed to eliminate the axial play, or there is damage on the working surfaces of the balls, rollers, rings.

If cavities, cracks, nicks, dents are found on the working planes of the roller, bipod shaft, if there is a play in the bearings or landing on the axle, it is necessary to ream its head, remove the roller.

Insert a new roller and axle into the shaft groove.Can be electrically welded to the bipod shaft of the old axle from the side of the reamed head, and the new axle from both sides.

In no case should the roller overheat. Having found sinks on the planes under the rollers, dents, cracks, excessive wear, immediately replace all the rings of the shaft-sector supports with new ones.

If there is a noticeable twisting of the splines, the bipod shaft should be replaced. If there is excessive wear on one side of the bronze crankcase bushing, replace it with a new one. Pressing a new bushing into the crankcase, iron it with a brooch to a diameter of 35 + 0.027 mm.

Replacing the steering gear is carried out by sequentially removing it from the car frame with the subsequent installation of a new mechanism. Our article has already described the step-by-step dismantling of the steering mechanism.

The assembly is carried out in the reverse order and adjustment of the main characteristics of the gearbox operation.