Do-it-yourself steering wheel repair on a sable

In detail: do-it-yourself steering wheel repair on a sable from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Gazelle Sable. Power steering adjustment

Adjustment includes two operations: adjustment of the propeller thrust bearings and adjustment of the gearing.

Screw Thrust Bearing Adjustment

In order to determine the need for adjustment, set the steering wheel to the middle position.

We disconnect the longitudinal steering rod from the bipod (see "Replacing the steering rods and their hinges", p. 108).

. while constantly shaking the bipod, we control the backlash until it is completely eliminated.
We lock the adjusting nut with a beard, upsetting sections of its shoulder into the grooves of the crankcase.

Gear adjustment

The gearing is adjustable only after the play in the propeller bearings has been eliminated.
On a vise-mounted mechanism.
. holding the key "16" input shaft.
. we swing the bipod. The backlash should not be felt by hand (exceed 0.3 mm at the end of the bipod).

Otherwise, remove the bipod from the sector shaft. We process the connection with a penetrating liquid.

It is more convenient to work together.
Drain the oil from the hydraulic booster system (see section "7.1.3. Maintenance of the hydraulic steering system").

Remove the cardan fork from the steering shaft. If necessary, move the steering column up (see section "7.1.1. Checking the technical condition of the steering and steering column").
We disconnect the longitudinal link from the bipod (see section "7.1.2. Steering shaft cardan joints, steering rods and pendulum levers").
Disconnect the thin hose from the reservoir of the hydraulic booster (see section "7.1.3. Maintenance of the hydraulic steering system").

Video (click to play).

We loosen the “19” head ...

... and with a key of the same size, we unscrew the three bolts securing the steering mechanism to the bracket. At the same time, the assistant holds ...

...and removes the steering gear.
We clamp the mechanism in a vice, ...

... with the “22” key, we unscrew the bolt fitting ...

... and remove the drain hose.
Install the mechanism in reverse order.

Adjustment includes two operations: adjustment of the propeller thrust bearings and adjustment of the gearing.
Screw Thrust Bearing Adjustment
We are working on a viewing hole.
In order to determine the need for adjustment, set the steering wheel to the middle position.
We disconnect the longitudinal steering rod from the bipod (see section "7.1.2. Steering shaft cardan joints, steering rods and pendulum levers").

Holding on to the cardan yoke of the input shaft of the steering mechanism, swing the bipod with the other hand.
If the input shaft has a noticeable play, adjust the bearings.
To do this, remove the steering gear (see above "Removing the steering gear with hydraulic booster") and fix it in a vise.

We straighten the upset shoulder of the adjusting nut with a beard.

With a special wrench, turn the nut clockwise, ...

... while constantly shaking the bipod, we control the backlash until it is completely eliminated.

We lock the adjusting nut with a beard, upsetting sections of its shoulder into the grooves of the crankcase.

The gearing is adjustable only after the play in the propeller bearings has been eliminated.
On the mechanism installed in a vise, ...

... holding the input shaft with the key "16", ...

...we swing the bipod. The backlash should not be felt by hand (exceed 0.3 mm at the end of the bipod).
Otherwise, remove the bipod from the sector shaft. We process the connection with a penetrating liquid.

We mark with a center punch the mutual position of the bipod and the shaft-sector.

Using the “32” wrench, unscrew the bipod nut and remove its spring washer.
We install the puller on the bipod and shaft.

By tightening the puller screw and applying sharp blows to the side of the bipod, ...

…remove it.
On the shaft are made.

…four double slots,…

... and in the bipod hole there are four double slots.

We remove the plastic covers from the slotted ...

... and the opposite end of the shaft-sector.

We loosen the lock nuts with the “13” key and unscrew the two locking bolts with the “12” key.

With a thin beard with a blunt end, we straighten the holes on the covers of the outer rings of the sector shaft.

Using a special key, we turn the outer eccentric rings of the bearings in the crankcase holes clockwise from the side of the splined end of the sector shaft. At the same time, we shake the input shaft with the “16” key to determine the moment of increasing resistance to its rotation, at which we stop the adjustment.
When adjusting, it is necessary to exclude the possibility of misalignment of the sector shaft, for which we turn both bearings alternately through a small angle until the gaps in the engagement are eliminated.
Putting the bipod on the splines of the sector shaft, we finally check the absence of play.

We fix the eccentric rings from turning by bending their flanges in the crankcase holes with a beard.

Remove the rubber seal of the input shaft, clean it
and, filling with any lubricant, set in place.
We assemble and install the mechanism by applying SHRUS-4 or SHRB-4 grease to the spline joint of the bipod.

Drain the oil from the hydraulic booster system, remove the hoses from the tank nozzles (see section "7.1.3. Maintenance of the hydraulic steering system").
Remove the engine mudguard (see section "9.1.1. Removing and replacing external body parts").

Using the “22” wrench, unscrew the bolt-fitting from the hydraulic booster and remove the drain hose (see above “Removing the power steering gear”).

Using the “17” key, unscrew the fitting of the injection hose.
For clarity, all subsequent operations are shown on the removed power steering pump (see section "7.1.5. Power steering pump").
We install new hoses in the reverse order, after which we fill in oil and pump the hydraulic system (see section "7.1.3. Servicing the hydraulic steering system").

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To facilitate the management of Sable, the manufacturer installs a hydraulic booster.If you have any difficulties when repairing the Sobol power steering with your own hands, our video will tell you quick and effective ways to restore the power steering to working capacity.

If the owner notices that the power steering pump is not working, further repair of the assembly on Sobol should begin by determining the causes of the failure. The main ones are described below, as well as recovery options.

Poor system strap tension. The solution to the problem is to adjust the position or replace.
Problems in the mechanical component. In this case, the repair of power steering (GUR) Gazelle, UAZ, Sobol, Volga must begin with a diagnosis of the condition of the components.
The steering wheel does not turn well. The reason for this may be either a low oil level in the system, or a worn belt. You should also pay attention to the engine speed and the condition of the filter - it may be clogged.
The pump refused to work. To restore the power steering pump of a Sobol car, you need to purchase a new repair kit and replace all seals / seals / other parts.
The presence of extraneous sounds and clicks. The reason is the strong wear of the controls. To view the power steering repair instructions, open the video on this page.
Lack of normal working fluid pressure. Practice shows that this is due to poor pump performance, or the presence of a leak in the system.
Tire wear or damage. The only solution is to install a new kit. It is strongly not recommended to drive on damaged tires.

For further repair of the power steering pump quickly with your own hands, our video will always be useful. The master gives detailed explanations, and also shows the sequence of actions when repairing power steering on Sobol.

Video (click to play).

The power steering system of GAZ and UAZ vehicles consists of the following components:

power steering gearbox,

high pressure oil pump,

hydraulic tank with filter

high pressure hose and low pressure hoses.

The principle of operation of the power steering gearbox type screw-ball nut is quite simple. When the steering wheel is rotated, a piston moves in the cylinder, which has cavities filled with oil on both sides. The movement of the piston causes the wheels to turn. To facilitate the rotation of the steering wheel and the movement of the piston, it is enough to supply oil under pressure to the desired cavity and bleed oil from the opposite one. This is what the goldsmith does. Those. turning the steering wheel, you just redirect the flow of oil into the desired cavity, and the wheels turn under the action of oil pressure on the piston.
The figure shows a schematic representation of the power steering gearbox. It has two shafts. The vertical shaft - closest to us - is the bipod shaft that turns the wheels. It has a toothed sector included in the teeth on the piston. The sector is not visible, it is directed away from us. When the piston moves, the bipod shaft and, consequently, the wheels turn. The second shaft is rotated by the steering wheel. It has a screw-nut type connection with a piston. However, this shaft does not have a rigid connection with the steering wheel. The rotation is transmitted through the spool, which directs the flow of oil under pressure into the desired cavity. Those. when you turn the steering wheel, you first turn the spool.

In addition to the above weak point, there are others in power steering gearboxes. They are mainly caused by inaccurate manufacturing and poor mating of parts. Some (for example, not polished sharp edges of the piston) lead to accelerated wear even after 50-60 thousand km. mileage gearbox is damaged. To extend the work of the power steering, you need to contact us in a timely manner for diagnostics. This will save you money!
We have developed methods for eliminating all defects encountered in power steering. Borisov power steering is not bad. But they need to be done right once.

When using materials from the site, an indication of the original necessarily!
Designed by Copter Studio 2001

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The design of the steering mechanism of the car Sable

We remove the steering mechanism (see Removing the steering mechanism with hydraulic booster), without removing the bipod and extension of the inlet hose.

We clamp the mechanism in a vice with the fittings down and drain the remaining oil into the container, turning the shaft of the mechanism with the “17” key.

If at the same time axial play of the shaft is felt, adjust the thrust bearings. For this…

... through a beard or drift, we straighten the collar of the adjusting nut, which is centered in the grooves of the crankcase.

With a special wrench, turn the nut clockwise until the gap is eliminated.

At the same time, we control the moment of rotation of the shaft, which should be no more than 0.2 kgf.m. For this…

... with a dynamometer hooked to the “17” key, we measure the moment of turning the spool shaft.

With a lever length of 200 mm, the force should not exceed 1.0 kgf.

With a beard we bend the collar of the nut into the groove.

We swing the arm of the steering mechanism.

If there is a gap, adjust the gearing.
For this…

... remove the bipod from the sector shaft (see Removing the power steering mechanism).

Prying with a screwdriver or a knife blade, remove the top ...

Using the “13” wrench, unscrew the lock nuts of the locking bolts.

Using the “12” key, we unscrew the locking bolts by 2-3 turns.

With a special key, we turn the adjusting eccentric cages of the sector shaft bearings.

ATTENTION
When adjusting, the possibility of misalignment of the sector shaft should be excluded, therefore, we turn the clips alternately at a small angle until the gaps in the engagement are eliminated.

Install the steering gear in reverse order.

Steering wheel puller

The steering wheel is tightly planted on the splines of the steering shaft and it is not easy to remove it. This work will be facilitated by a homemade puller. Plate material - steel, standard bolts. In the manufacture of the puller, you can do without welding. To do this, use a plate with a thickness of at least 6 mm. In it we cut the thread for the central bolt.

Today we will pay special attention to power steering, intended for installation on Gazelle cars. In today's article, we will take a closer look at the repair of the Gazelle power steering. So, this article contains answers to such fairly common questions:

What is a hydraulic booster?
How is the power steering?
What is the repair of the hydraulic booster?
How to replace the power steering fluid on a Gazelle car?
How is the power steering pump repaired on a Gazelle car?

The power steering or, as it is abbreviated as the power steering, is the hydraulic system of the car, part of the steering mechanism, which is designed to facilitate the management of the direction of movement of the vehicle while maintaining the necessary feedback, as well as ensuring the stability of operation and the uniqueness of the given trajectory. In addition, the power steering is designed in such a way that in the event of its failure, the steering will function, but the steering wheel in this case will spin a little harder. Power steering is one of the most important steering elements in any vehicle.The main purpose of the power steering is to create side forces at the moment the steering wheel is turned due to the presence of an electric drive. Almost all modern vehicles are equipped with power steering.

Motorists with experience identify several main advantages of a power steering on a Gazelle car, such as:

High level of reliability;
High information content;
Low fuel consumption;
Ease of adjustment of manual specifications.

The main disadvantages of the hydraulic booster for Gazelle cars include:

Great cost;
Difficulty establishing;
Significant changes in the steering system of the vehicle;
Needs regular maintenance.

How is the power steering for Gazelle cars?

Pump. Thanks to this device, the circulation of the working fluid and pressure is ensured.
Steering gearbox with distributor. With its help, an air flow is provided, which directs the oil into the required cavity of the cylinder or back into the reservoir.
Cylinder. With the help of the cylinder, the fluid pressure is converted into the movement of the piston and rod.
Oil that transmits force from the pump to the cylinder and also lubricates all friction pairs.

The power steering oil needs to be replaced periodically, and the frequency of replacement depends on the condition of the steering wheel, the characteristics of the fluid, as well as the brand of the steering wheel. That is, when the steering wheel is difficult to turn or noise is heard when cornering, then you need to add a little or completely replace the power steering fluid. It is necessary to replace the fluid in the hydraulic booster almost every sixty thousand kilometers, this is, so to speak, a partial repair of the hydraulic booster. So, how to replace the fluid in the power steering on a Gazelle car?

Due to active use and heavy loads, it is often necessary to repair the power steering pump. The complexity of the repair lies only in the fact that the power steering pump for a Gazelle car is not disassembled, which means that there are no covers or retaining rings in it, but pump repair is still real. First you need to remove and disassemble the power steering pump according to the instructions that come with the kit. After that, you need to carefully clean it from dirt and dust, and also inspect to find the cause of the breakdown. The cause of the failure may be the wear of the oil seal, in which case it must be replaced. When installing the gland, it may be necessary to modify the roller.

There are several ways to fix a new bearing in the pump design. You can make a recess on the outside of the bearing, drill threaded holes in the wall of the pump, install a new bearing and secure it with sharpened bolts. Alternatively, you can secure the bearing in the middle of the power steering pump using the folded edges of the housing. After the repair is completed, you need to assemble the power steering pump in the reverse order. Please note that after the repair, new parts may create some noise, but this is just grinding in new parts. Be sure to change the power steering fluid after repair.

Commercial vehicles do not need to have a lot of equipment on board that contributes to comfortable and safe driving. Although it was possible even for a deep scoop. Recall at least the RAF 2203, which was considered almost a model of comfort for a minibus. Despite the fact that it was assembled completely on the nodes and assemblies of the Volga. This icon of Soviet minibuses and ambulances is about time to erect a monument - the RAF not only somehow did not deteriorate from congenital Volga diseases, it managed to become an absolutely self-sufficient and comfortable vehicle.In the photo, RAF 2203, which was considered a model of comfort under the USSRWhat happened, then passed, and GAZ 3302 GAZelle came to replace Rafik, on which they had high hopes.As a result, for 20 years of production, it has remained a gasoline tractor with a steering wheel and a gearbox poker, having managed to pick up incurable diseases with the most primitive design. Since there is no choice in this price segment at all, the car enjoys forced popularity and strained love of drivers.Like the whole car, the GAZelle steering mechanism does not suffer from the sophistication of the design, but many believe that this is for the best. Regardless of whether the car is with power steering or without power steering, repair and steering adjustment are extremely simple and do not require deep encyclopedic knowledge and special tools from the driver. The very minimum of both - and you can go further.

Video review of GAZelle 3302

It is still different from the prehistoric GAZ worm-roller gearboxes, and even has its positive aspects. The most pleasant feature from the point of view of car architecture is that the GAZelle gearbox mechanism is quite compact and at the same time has good efficiency. What is especially noticeable on cars without power steering is that driving even a loaded car does not require the use of brute physical force. The designers achieved this by using rolling instead of sliding. It cannot be said that this introduction brought revolutionary changes to the global auto industry at the end of the 20th century, but the steering wheel became noticeably lighter. This made it possible to increase the resource of the entire assembly, since it does not wear out as intensively as a worm pair, and rarely requires adjustment.

Not without flaws, although the designers have nothing to do with it. A working pair of screw / ball nut is a non-dismantling element, and for the first 10-15 years of the car's production, it was quite difficult to find a replacement pair. Now this stuff is enough, so replacing a working pair can cost 5-6 thousand rubles. Adjusting the steering gear involves its complete dismantling, which also does not cause delight among users. Moreover, to adjust the gap, in addition to the key of a special profile, even and skillful hands are also required, since the bearings can be skewed in no time if you do not use a torque wrench.

In the GAZelle, control does not require the use of brute physical force, even if the car is loaded

But the main surprise for the driver who decides to adjust or repair the gearbox is the dismantling of the bipod. This is not hellish work, but in the cold, dismantling the bipod can cause some discomfort.

From a good life, no one wants to remove the steering gear with their own hands, and the reasons for this must be more than good. Basically, this is necessary if the steering wheel is noticeably heavier, characteristic knocks appear in the gearbox housing, or there is a clear lubricant leak. The gearbox always sweats, but if the leak is too active, then the replacement of the seals shines. In this case, it is necessary to check the condition of the shaft and, if necessary, remove traces of corrosion by grinding.

You can make adjustments without completely dismantling the gearbox, but it will be calmer if you still remove it and inspect it carefully.

For the curious or for those in a hurry, we present the technology for dismantling the gearbox from under the hood:

Loosen the front wheel mount.
We hang the front axle on a stand and remove the wheels.
We turn the steering wheel all the way to the right and from under the hood we knock out the steering rod with fittings that are suitable in length.
We do the same on the left.
From under the hood we remove the gearbox along with the bipod, which is more convenient to remove on a workbench.

When the gearbox is in our hands, we can repair it. Replacing parts should not present any difficulties, since the gearbox is extremely simple and understandable, and you need to pay some attention to the adjustment and refer to the factory adjustment data. They are also extremely simple.

For cargo GAZelles, the allowable backlash is 25˚, for passenger ones - 20˚. According to factory tolerances, there can be no play in the bearings of the gearbox. Adjustment of the clearance in the screw bearings is carried out in a vise on a workbench. This is more comfortable.We remove the plastic protection and the foam rubber seal, then unscrew the four screws securing the cover, take out one of the shims, and then assemble everything in the reverse order. If there is play, repeat the operation to dismantle the gasket. So until full satisfaction and elimination of backlash on the bipod.

The permissible backlash of cargo GAZelles is 25˚

When the play on the bipod is fully selected, we get to the adjusting eccentric rings. You need to turn them one by one to avoid skew and with a certain effort - 10-18 kgf / cm. Adjustment is complete, now you can moisten the foam seal in gear oil, splined joints with grease and install the steering gear in place.

Repairing the power steering is a difficult task, and the work is painstaking. The article is intended for those motorists who are familiar with the structure of the main vehicle systems.

Many, for sure, know how to remove the power steering from the car and install it back at the end of the work. Where to start?

1. Clean the dirt from the power steering so that it does not get into the cavities of the unit when the hoses are disconnected.

2. Pump out as much fluid from the pump reservoir as possible (preferably more).

3. Taking the hexagon “6”, unscrew the screws of the steering shaft coupling from the bottom of the machine. Before that, do not forget to mark its position relative to the hydraulic booster shaft with a roll.

4. Slide the flexible sleeve off the splines using a pry bar.

5. Disconnect the tie rods from the bipod with a puller.

6. Jack up the car and remove the left front wheel.

7. Taking the socket wrench to “15”, loosen the three bolts securing the hydraulic booster to the side member from the side of the wheel arch, removing two of them.

8. Place a container under the hose fittings and disconnect them one by one to drain the liquid.

9. Seal hoses and fittings with at least a rag.

10. Holding the hydraulic booster from the bottom of the machine with one hand, unscrew the bolt that remains and do not drop the gearbox on your leg.

11. Clean the gearbox thoroughly before disassembling.

Many experts strongly recommend re-reading articles about power steering specifically for your car. Some hydraulic boosters are almost completely disassembled, with the exception of the “ball nut - steering shaft screw” pair, while others are better left untouched. Although even if you accidentally unscrewed the screw from the nut, and the balls fell into the cavity of the gearbox, just do not lose them. Image - Do-it-yourself steering wheel repair on a sable

Power steering repair steps:

1. To disassemble the part, take a very strong hexagon on “6”, as well as an ordinary old tray into which ATP will begin to merge.

2. First remove the plugs from the fitting and lift the power steering above the bucket, rotating the bipod to drain the liquid.

3. Next, remove the bipod shaft and unscrew the four bolts seated on the fixing mastic, and therefore quite difficult to unscrew.

4. Loosen the adjusting screw lock nut, and then turn the screw into the gearbox to push the shaft along with the gearbox cover and bipod.

5. If you do not need to eliminate the backlash of the bipod shaft or replace the cuff, then this bipod can be left alone and not removed. Unscrew the check valve plug.

6. Get a spring, and shake out the valve.

7. Unscrew the cover bolts and, carefully turning the shaft, make sure that it slightly pushes the cover out of the housing. Be careful not to unscrew the shaft from the ball nut.

8. Pry up the resulting gap and pull the shaft together with the cover and piston from the gearbox.

9. Remove the ball nut by unscrewing the shaft and collecting the balls.

10. Loosen the locknut and unscrew the bearing.

11. Remove the nut housing and bearings from the piston housing. Next, disassemble the nut by bending the bolt lock. Unscrew them, remove the bracket, as well as both parts of the ball guide channel.

12. We are looking for the cause of the breakdown. There can be several reasons for the backlash of the power steering: gaps in the “shaft-ball nut” pair, in the shaft bearing assembly (in the cover), and also in the bearing assembly of the ball nut in the piston housing itself.

13. Adjust clearances. They were formed, by the way, due to the banal loosening of the threaded connections that hold the bearing assemblies. If play is found in the shaft-cover assembly, then loosen the locknut and tighten it so that the play disappears, but without fanaticism. Do not forget to carry out the “operation” in cleanliness, that is, the cleaned part should shine.

If you are doing this work for the first time, then do not be too lazy to get detailed power steering drawings or take sheets of paper and lay out each spare part on a separate piece of paper, putting a number on it. It is ideal to work at a large table. So you definitely won’t lose anything and assemble the power steering without errors, and they don’t joke with the steering wheel, because this is your safety on the road, as well as your loved ones.

14. Assemble the gearbox in the reverse order, remembering to lubricate the parts with ATP.

Good luck to you, motorists, in the repair of power steering!