In detail: do-it-yourself repair of the Audi 80 steering rack without gur from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
On top of the rail, approximately under the main brake cylinder, there is just one regulating screw and it is clearly visible.
As far as I remember, this screw, on a rail with a power steering, does not regulate anything.
It can help if the rake is without power steering.
Why the heck was he made there then?
Everything there is regulated, that's why it is called adjusting, but if there is a strong backlash in the rail, then it will not help much.
There were the same knocks, for a very long time they could not understand from where.
As a result, it turned out that 27 poses were not tightened when replacing the ammo.
p; unit = 0D404E78
and 43 pos. dangled in a glass.
to Toxic: in a power steering rack, this screw acts as a plug, try to unscrew it completely.
2 Forecaster: I was also finished off by knocks in the area of the left front wheel, changed all the rubber bands and bones - it did not help, but it turned out that it relaxed on the ball bolt in the hub and the ball rattled but did not jump out. Changed the bolt, everything is in order. Look, maybe the same shit.
From the ball and began, just had to change. But the knock didn't go away.
I also considered the option with an ammo support, but it seems that there is no knock, somewhere behind the wheel.
Once I drove to the overpass to look, so the knock immediately disappeared, zar-times.
In general, it would be necessary to call into the pit, and look.
and my knock disappeared. The finger in the ball was just like a glove just dangling in the hub. I, too, did not immediately cut through only when I hung out the front end and pulled it down right behind the wheel.
I CHANGED the ball. the knock did not go away.
When I had not screwed on the cap (this is the name of pos. 27 in ETKA), the knocks on the support bearing were not given, but were felt on the steering tip at the slightest turn of the steering wheel, but when the wheel on the “problem” side was hung out, the knock disappeared ( so, in principle, they found which side it knocks on).
It is not difficult to check this cap. To do this, you need to raise the wheel (without removing it) and taking a water (gas) wrench through the coils of the spring, reach out and try to tighten it.
In my case, it helped.
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I have a small (and sometimes large) knock when turning the steering wheel, which periodically appears and disappears, turned out to be due to a bolt fastening the right steering rod to the bracket that was not twisted at the service.
No, this is not it, I would have noticed that. I lean towards the version with a knock inside the rack, but I still can't take a look
Replacing the steering rack Audi 80.
To do this, you need to drive the car onto a pit, lift or overpass. Then arm yourself with keys for 10, 13, 15 and 17, as well as a socket wrench and heads for 8, 7 and 15. In addition, you need a hexagon under 6.
First you need to unscrew the front wheel on the driver's side, determine the steering rack mounting bolts and unscrew their nuts under the hood. Then unscrew a pair of nuts of the bolts securing the steering rods to the rack, pull out the bolts and disconnect the rods from the rack.
After that, you should unscrew the fastenings of the steering rack to the body, first the lower, then the upper. In the cabin, you need to remove the shelf, located where the driver's legs are usually located, and remove the boot of the steering shaft.
Now it is necessary unscrew the shaft from the rack, unscrew the bolt and pull off the clamp. Then you can disconnect the rack from the shaft by pulling it out under the vacuum brake booster, between the pipes and the motor - a complicated and inconvenient process.
This is followed by the installation of a new rail in the reverse order. The only caveat when installing the clamp is to trace the path from the shaft to the steering wheel - there, under the torpedo, there is a bushing... Press down on the steering wheel to release the ring from the bushing. Between it and the sleeve, you need to insert the key and then tighten the clamp.
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If the rail is not old, then you can fix it. I sorted out both the 8th and the “tenth” reiki. Without a gur, with a gur, I don't know what's what. There is not always, in fact, you need to tighten. For the tenth rail, for example, the disease is a Belleville spring. You buy an SS-20, put it on and enjoy
DenniZ, Is the steering wheel adjustable in height? The crosspiece knocks on bumps, especially loudly, if there is a steering shaft blocker, a suitable piece of elastic is pushed into it, and the knocking stops.
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how to check the rail on the car