In detail: do-it-yourself repair of the Audi 80 steering rack without gur from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
On top of the rail, approximately under the main brake cylinder, there is just one regulating screw and it is clearly visible.
As far as I remember, this screw, on a rail with a power steering, does not regulate anything.
It can help if the rake is without power steering.
Why the heck was he made there then?
Everything there is regulated, that's why it is called adjusting, but if there is a strong backlash in the rail, then it will not help much.
There were the same knocks, for a very long time they could not understand from where.
As a result, it turned out that 27 poses were not tightened when replacing the ammo.
p; unit = 0D404E78
and 43 pos. dangled in a glass.
to Toxic: in a power steering rack, this screw acts as a plug, try to unscrew it completely.
2 Forecaster: I was also finished off by knocks in the area of the left front wheel, changed all the rubber bands and bones - it did not help, but it turned out that it relaxed on the ball bolt in the hub and the ball rattled but did not jump out. Changed the bolt, everything is in order. Look, maybe the same shit.
From the ball and began, just had to change. But the knock didn't go away.
I also considered the option with an ammo support, but it seems that there is no knock, somewhere behind the wheel.
Once I drove to the overpass to look, so the knock immediately disappeared, zar-times.
In general, it would be necessary to call into the pit, and look.
and my knock disappeared. The finger in the ball was just like a glove just dangling in the hub. I, too, did not immediately cut through only when I hung out the front end and pulled it down right behind the wheel.
I CHANGED the ball. the knock did not go away.
When I had not screwed on the cap (this is the name of pos. 27 in ETKA), the knocks on the support bearing were not given, but were felt on the steering tip at the slightest turn of the steering wheel, but when the wheel on the “problem” side was hung out, the knock disappeared ( so, in principle, they found which side it knocks on).
It is not difficult to check this cap. To do this, you need to raise the wheel (without removing it) and taking a water (gas) wrench through the coils of the spring, reach out and try to tighten it.
In my case, it helped.
 |
Video (click to play). |
I have a small (and sometimes large) knock when turning the steering wheel, which periodically appears and disappears, turned out to be due to a bolt fastening the right steering rod to the bracket that was not twisted at the service.
No, this is not it, I would have noticed that. I lean towards the version with a knock inside the rack, but I still can't take a look
Replacing the steering rack Audi 80.
To do this, you need to drive the car onto a pit, lift or overpass. Then arm yourself with keys for 10, 13, 15 and 17, as well as a socket wrench and heads for 8, 7 and 15. In addition, you need a hexagon under 6.
First you need to unscrew the front wheel on the driver's side, determine the steering rack mounting bolts and unscrew their nuts under the hood. Then unscrew a pair of nuts of the bolts securing the steering rods to the rack, pull out the bolts and disconnect the rods from the rack.
After that, you should unscrew the fastenings of the steering rack to the body, first the lower, then the upper. In the cabin, you need to remove the shelf, located where the driver's legs are usually located, and remove the boot of the steering shaft.
Now it is necessary unscrew the shaft from the rack, unscrew the bolt and pull off the clamp. Then you can disconnect the rack from the shaft by pulling it out under the vacuum brake booster, between the pipes and the motor - a complicated and inconvenient process.
This is followed by the installation of a new rail in the reverse order. The only caveat when installing the clamp is to trace the path from the shaft to the steering wheel - there, under the torpedo, there is a bushing... Press down on the steering wheel to release the ring from the bushing. Between it and the sleeve, you need to insert the key and then tighten the clamp.
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If the rail is not old, then you can fix it. I sorted out both the 8th and the “tenth” reiki. Without a gur, with a gur, I don't know what's what. There is not always, in fact, you need to tighten. For the tenth rail, for example, the disease is a Belleville spring. You buy an SS-20, put it on and enjoy
DenniZ, Is the steering wheel adjustable in height? The crosspiece knocks on bumps, especially loudly, if there is a steering shaft blocker, a suitable piece of elastic is pushed into it, and the knocking stops.
Complete catalog of spare parts for Audi 80 - avto.pro/catalog/audi/80/
Avto.Pro - comparison of spare parts prices from 2000 sellers, choose the best offer.
how to check the rail on the car
Vitaly Zakharov
Mechanics.
Absence:
- backlash when turning the steering wheel.
- knock on the rail.
- wedge in the entire range.
-radial backlash of the stem.
At 9:25 a.m., I removed this bolt, as in the video it does not play back and forth like that, it’s either stuck, or something else I can’t understand
I removed all the bolts, but there is one thing, but at 10:19 minutes I cannot remove this part of the shaft from Shvetsov.
Samodel TV removed the bolt, faked it with a screwdriver, but still does not go, a couple of cm remains and does not go any further
T. A.
Remove the bolt and carefully pry it off with a wide slotted screwdriver.
Hey! how and with what to lubricate the rail (without gur)?
Sultan Dosaev
Hey!
Lubricate through the adjustment mechanism by removing the shoe. Casting lubricant.
I can stick a gur without a gur?)
Sergei Golovanov
Hello.
Pull the rail until the steering wheel is locked, i.e. the steering wheel does not return when turning. Loosen a little until it starts spontaneously returning.
There will be a video on this topic!
hello) but nothing can be tightened on this rail, well, how is a worm on our classics?
open-end wrenches (ordinary) for 13, 15 and 17, two pieces and one for 10
1.fill all available nuts with a liquid wrench
2.remove the front left wheel (driver's)
3. in the wheel arch we find two heads of hexagon bolts (steering rack mount), in the hood we find their nuts, and turn them off.
4. we unscrew the rods from the rail two inconvenient nuts from the bottom and unscrew the bolts (the rods remain connected, they are removed only from the rail!)
5. release the rail fasteners from the body, first we climb into the hole and unscrew the lower nut, then we stretch from the top and turn off the remaining one.
6.remove the shelf at the driver's feet
7. From the bonnet space, pull out the rubber band of the steering shaft seal.
8. we turn off the steering shaft from the rack, the clamp will be removed only after pulling out the bolt.
9. disconnect the shaft from the rail, go to the hood and take out the rail, it comes out under the vacuum cleaner, between the tubes and the engine, it is difficult to pull it out.
10.we put a new one in there and assemble everything in the reverse order, the only thing is when you clamp the steering shaft back onto the rail, track its path towards the steering wheel, and under the torpedo itself you will see the bushing, push the steering wheel and it will go inside, the ring will move away from the bushing, between it and the sleeve, insert the key and now clamp the clamp.
they are left-handed, and from the bottom, yes, there are still nuts.
without them it will be easier, you can completely remove this part (10) and will not interfere.
Edited by COOLIBIN (07/17/2011 11:19 PM)
Edited by COOLIBIN (07/18/2011 08:53 AM)
Common anther.
There is no way to remove it.
I removed the motor, unscrewed the rail, unscrewed the steering shaft clamp, but did not pull it out.
I just pulled back on the right and put on a new boot.All this is problematic enough.
I'm not sure personally I'm in the zhp group. At least their oil pumps are stupid (well, or I got one), after 4000 rpm.oil presses like a geyser, you see something with a bypass valve. 99% that it is not necessary to remove the units, but it is inconvenient, but it is not necessary to remove the engine.
well, she looks very much like mine
and the device, I suppose she has one to one
open-end wrenches (ordinary) for 13, 15 and 17, two pieces and one for 10
1.fill all available nuts with a liquid wrench
2.remove the front left wheel (driver's)
3. in the wheel arch we find two heads of hexagon bolts (steering rack mount), in the hood we find their nuts, and turn them off.
4. we unscrew the rods from the rail two inconvenient nuts from the bottom and unscrew the bolts (the rods remain connected, they are removed only from the rail!)
5. release the rail fasteners from the body, first we climb into the hole and unscrew the lower nut, then we stretch from the top and turn off the remaining one.
6.remove the shelf at the driver's feet
7. From the bonnet space, pull out the rubber band of the steering shaft seal.
8. we turn off the steering shaft from the rack, the clamp will be removed only after pulling out the bolt.
9. disconnect the shaft from the rail, go to the hood and take out the rail, it comes out under the vacuum cleaner, between the tubes and the engine, it is difficult to pull it out.
10.we put a new one in there and assemble everything in the reverse order, the only thing is when you clamp the steering shaft back onto the rail, track its path towards the steering wheel, and under the torpedo itself you will see the bushing, push the steering wheel and it will go inside, the ring will move away from the bushing, between it and the sleeve, insert the key and now clamp the clamp.
they are left-handed, and from the bottom, yes, there are still nuts.
without them it will be easier, you can completely remove this part (10) and will not interfere.
Edited by COOLIBIN (07/17/2011 11:19 PM)
Edited by COOLIBIN (07/18/2011 08:53 AM)
Common anther.
There is no way to remove it.
I removed the motor, unscrewed the rail, unscrewed the steering shaft clamp, but did not pull it out.
I just pulled back on the right and put on a new boot.All this is problematic enough.
I'm not sure personally I'm in the zhp group. At least their oil pumps are stupid (well, or I got one), after 4000 rpm. oil presses like a geyser, you see something with a bypass valve. 99% that it is not necessary to remove the units, but it is inconvenient, but it is not necessary to remove the engine.
well, she looks very much like mine
and the device, I suppose she has one to one
Is it time to replace the steering rack? We will tell you how this is done. To replace the steering rack you will need:
- Tool:
- heads for 8, 17, 15
- open-end wrenches (ordinary) for 13, 15 and 17, two pieces and one for 10
- hexagon 6
- liquid key
- pit (lift)
1.fill all available nuts with a liquid wrench
2.remove the front left wheel (driver's)
3. in the wheel arch, find two heads of the hexagon bolts (steering rack mount), find their nuts in the hood and unscrew.
4.Unscrew the rods from the rack two inconvenient nuts from the bottom and unscrew the bolts (the rods remain connected, they can only be removed from the rack!)
5. Release the rail fasteners from the body, first unscrew the lower nut from the bottom of the car, then reach out from the top and unscrew the remaining one.
6.remove the shelf at the driver's feet
7. From the bonnet, unclip the rubber band of the steering shaft seal.
8. Unscrew the steering shaft from the rack, the clamp will be removed only after pulling out the bolt.
9. Disconnect the shaft from the rail, pull the rail out from the side of the hood, it comes out under the vacuum cleaner, between the pipes and the engine, it is difficult to pull it out.
10.Install a new one there and reassemble everything in the reverse order,
When you clamp the steering shaft back onto the rail, trace its path towards the steering wheel, and under the torpedo itself you will see the bushing, push the steering wheel and it will go inward, the ring will move away from the bushing, between it and the bushing, insert the key and now clamp the clamp.
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Below you can see the technical properties of the repair of the control rail without a gur audi 80 with your own hands. Express your worldview about cars in the comments.
Original title: Popravak stupa reiki bez gura audi 80 svojim rukama
Release date: 29.05.2015
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Repair steering rack do it yourself
The control rail is the main element of the control control and, according to the deflot, must always be exclusively in good technical condition.
Control rail design
In fact, on all car models, the design of the control rack is the same type and therefore we will discern its general structure.
The steering rack consists of:
Bushing housings;
Shaft with teeth and threads at both ends for connecting control rods;
A control gearbox consisting of a shaft with worm teeth, a stubborn bearing and a shaft bearing, a gear cover that presses the shaft cracker, a spring and a cap that serves to adjust the pressure of the cracker to the rack shaft;
Control rods with control tips (left / right);
Anthers of the rails with fastening clamps;The shaft of the rack is sealed against the occurrence of free play by the bushing, and somewhat on the other side by the pressing crack of the control gear.
Control rail malfunctions
Malfunctions reiki expressed in the occurrence of knocks, tight rotation of the steering wheel, in other words, the steering wheel jamming during rotation. In the bulk, the occurrence of these defects is caused by a violation of the integrity of the protective anthers of the control rail.
Through the warped boot, moisture and dirt get into the “bulb” of the control rods, into the sealing sleeve of the shaft, onto the rack shaft itself, onto the parts of the control gear, which reduces their service life several times.Therefore, it is recommended to undergo repeated diagnostics of the suspension and the manager of the accounting system to detect defects at their early stage.This will prevent the wear of suspension parts and the manager of the accounting software complex and save your own money on expensive repairs.
The operation on the repair of the control rail is not particularly difficult and the repair is carried out by their forces you will like it done by any car enthusiast.
Because the device of most of the rails is of the same type, here we will not dwell separately on the repair of the control rail of a VAZ, Audi or Mitsubishi, but we will consider the general points of repair.Steering rack repair on the Audi. Steering rack repair on the Audi in St. Petersburg Our company provides services for repair.
The knock of the rack in most cases appears from the wear of the packing sleeve of the rack shaft, or from the wear of the surface of the clamping block, the shaft body or the breakage of the spring of the cracker, or from the adjustment of the clamping of the cracker in the gearbox.
In cases where the knock is insignificant, it can be eliminated by tightening the nut (cover) of the gearbox. By tightening the cover, the spring will additionally be compressed and the cracker will press more tightly against the rack shaft, eliminating the knock. At the same time, for each cover, depending on the car model, you need its own special key for tightening.If the knock cannot be removed by tightening the cover, then the steering rack must be removed from the car for disassembly and repair.
The removed steering rack is cleaned of dirt, washed and disassembled.First of all, you need to pay attention to the integrity of the protective anthers of the rack, which must be replaced at the slightest suspicion of their wear.
The anther clamps are given away and the anthers are removed. Next, the steering rods are unlocked and unscrewed from the rack shaft.
The rack reducer is disassembled, the clamping cover is given and the spring and clamping cracker of the rack shaft are removed. Next, the rack shaft is removed and all parts are washed and defective. If traces of corrosion appear on the shaft, they are removed by sandpapering with oil. If the shaft body or its teeth are severely worn, the shaft must be replaced.The shaft sleeve is checked for shaft play and, if necessary, the sleeve must be replaced.
In the gearbox, the thrust bearing and the shaft bearing, the cracker and the clamping spring are replaced. If the worm shaft of the gearbox is worn out, then it is also replaced.The steering rack shaft is inserted into the rack housing with a new support sleeve, the gearbox worm and the rotation of the worm shaft is used to check the ease of rotation of the rack shaft. Since the bushing is new and often made to be set with a slight interference, rotation can be a little difficult, but should be uniform without any clamps.
Next, the clamping rusks are installed rack shaft, spring and pressure adjusting cap, but not completely tightened. All parts of the gearbox are installed and you can start adjusting the rack, achieving easy rotation of the shaft without any backlash. After the end of the adjustment, the nut locks, if provided for by the design of the gearbox.
Video (click to play). If new protective anthers for the steering rods are installed, then they must be immediately put on the rods, since if you skip this operation, you will have to give up the steering rods again. After tightening and locking the steering rods, the anthers are installed on the body steering slats and tightened with clamps (on the body and rods).
