Do-it-yourself steering rack repair Daewoo Lanos

In detail: do-it-yourself Daewoo Lanos steering rack repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

We will show you how to repair the steering rack of a Daewoo Lanos car with your own hands. In the steering rack, you can hear the knock of the rear hub, when the steering wheel moves, it creaks unpleasantly. At the beginning of the video, it is shown how it is correctly removed and then disassembled, the tool used, lubrication, etc. When disassembling, carefully inspect the anthers for damage; if they are found, replacement is necessary.

Litol was used as a lubricant, but according to further practice, it is better to use a CV joint lubricant for these purposes, in terms of lubricating properties it is slightly better than lithol, all the advantages of this lubricant appear in frost, in cold weather it will not harden, in the morning or after a long parking the steering wheel spins without any problems when the car is not warmed up.

At the end, it is shown how the steering rack is assembled, its work after repair.

Video repair steering rack Daewoo Lanos:

The video is in good quality, the whole process is shown as conveniently as possible so that you can consider all the details of the repair and repeat it on your car with your own hands.

The Daewoo Lanos steering mechanism has the most direct impact on traffic safety. It is scary to imagine what can happen when the driver turns the steering wheel, and the wheels do not react to it in any way. Additionally, the precise operation of the entire mechanism provides comfortable driving conditions. One of its main nodes is the steering rack. If any malfunction occurs in it, the creation of an emergency on the road is inevitable. Given this feature, control over the state of the rail should be constant.

Video (click to play).

A serviceable steering rack Daewoo Lanos during operation does not remind of its existence. But as soon as problems arise in her condition, she immediately makes itself felt.

The most typical symptoms of a malfunction are:

Play in the steering wheel;
Unauthorized knocks;
Steering wheel jamming;
Oil stains under the engine;
Reducing the fluid level in the power steering reservoir (power steering).

These and other signs are characteristic not only for the steering rack. Only service station specialists can understand the reason for their appearance and determine their location.

Diagnostics is the most crucial moment in determining the possibility of further operation of the rail. The way to restore its performance will depend on the results. But this is the case if the diagnosis is carried out in compliance with all parameters. It is this condition that is feasible only at a specialized service station. Why? The answer is simple - the steering rack cannot be diagnosed "by eye". This requires special equipment.

By external inspection, service station specialists determine the possibility of a malfunction in the assembly. Then the rail is dismantled, and after cleaning it is checked on a special diagnostic stand. If the results obtained by inspection and on the stand coincide, the possibility of further use of the rail in the car is analyzed.

Thus, every car enthusiast must conclude that steering rack diagnostics cannot be trusted even by the “best mechanic” from a nearby garage. Without a diagnostic stand, the performance of this node cannot be assessed.

Steering racks can be conditionally divided into two types - with and without power steering. Accordingly, the repair of the power steering rail Lanos will have slight differences.

The content and number of operations in the repair of such an element as the Lanos steering rack with power steering is somewhat increased due to the presence of a power steering. This includes draining the fluid from the power steering, replacing the sealing glands and additional adjustments.

The practice of such repairs shows that everyone who made them with their own hands had to seek qualified help from service station specialists. Thus, savings on repairs turned into unforeseen costs.

It is somewhat simpler than the previous one, but not so much that you can do it yourself. In the process of reiki restoration for non-specialists, many different pitfalls arise.

Failure to comply with some of the nuances will lead to the failure of the entire mechanism. For example, after tightening the bushing spring cover, it must be loosened by half a turn. Failure to complete this step will cause the steering rack to jam.

Well, if this does not happen while driving. Repair in a service environment involves not only the replacement of faulty parts, but also a thorough check of the operability of the unit as a whole.

For this, there are special diagnostic stands. The complexity of the repair is indicated by its laboriousness. It may take up to one day to restore the rail.

In any case, the choice will remain with the client. But here a number of factors must be taken into account. If the rail was repaired at the service station, then its service life will not differ from the new one. Moreover, it can even surpass it. It all depends on the parts used in the repair. Some suppliers produce spare parts of higher quality than the manufacturer. This is especially true for such an indicator as strength.

An important indicator is the cost. For a restored rail, it is more than 5 times less than for a new one. Often this is the determining factor in choosing whether the Lanos steering rack will be repaired or replaced.

The operational life of 200-250 thousand km laid down by the manufacturer is not always maintained. It contributes to:

The low quality of our roads;
Not careful driving
Increase in vehicle mileage between scheduled maintenance;
Operation errors;
Natural wear.

All these reasons cause a significant reduction in the life of the mechanism. Analyzing the causes of malfunctions, it is easy to come to the conclusion that they are mainly caused by the fault of the driver. By reading the Operating Instructions for the car, and most importantly by fulfilling its requirements, you can greatly increase the service life of all its components and assemblies, including the steering rack.

A trip with a faulty steering rack can turn into a big disaster, and even be the last for your car. To prevent this from happening, we suggest contacting us at the service station for help. We have at our disposal a competent, highly professional staff of repairmen, certified equipment for diagnostics and repair. We give a guarantee for the work performed by us.

' width='8' height='8' /> Knock steering rack, Typical Laney sore

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Auto: sens->lanos sport->seat

There are 2 slats - Korean and Polish.
Korean - less problematic, costs about 850-900 UAH, goes longer.
Polish - cheaper - up to 500 UAH, sort of, but also more problematic.

Polish slats are installed on the cars that are assembled with us. rails are interchangeable.

I had the same problem - the rail (Polish) was knocking - I replaced the bushing with a fluoroplastic one (UAH 40 with work) and the knock went away.
the more you ride with a knock, the more play and wear appears on the remaining parts of the rack. when she is completely staggered - they will say at the diagnostics at the service station - then change it - better for Korean.

like so, if anything - let the more knowledgeable correct =)

my knock is gone and so far it does not appear, the backlash is less, the steering wheel has become tighter (gradually developed). satisfied.

Opel reliability, by inheritance, along with the design of the main components, passed to Daewoo cars. However, with a strong run, the car can get on your nerves. When the steering rack on Lanos knocks, it's too early to sound the alarm. First, we will carry out diagnostics, and after that we will find out what shines for us - replacing the rail, repairing, or maybe it's something else. As practice shows, a knock in the steering rack does not always indicate the need for replacement. The price of the rack itself, plus the price of replacement - comes out a round sum that will make us figure it out on our own.

For orientation, we have selected several options for replacing the rail with Lanos. Not the fact that it will have to be changed, however, we will know how much you can save if you take the time to diagnose and, in extreme cases, repair the steering.

The original GM steering rack without power steering with catalog number 096275011, Korean, will cost $82 (or UAH 2092) at the exchange rate for 2018. The quality is good, but you can find cheaper and not worse.
For example, the Czech rail Profit 30418040. Its price is $ 79. Slightly worse in quality, but there is no crime.
Lauber, made in Poland, catalog number 668267. This rail is with power steering, which is why it is expensive, about $450. There is no point in changing it, only repairing it.

The prospect of a complete replacement of the rail is not bright, especially since the service station will most likely insist on a replacement. No one wants to mess with the steering wheel of an outdated car, it is not profitable for them. It is easier to change, but more expensive for us. It turns out, we understand ourselves.

There is nothing particularly complicated in the device of the Lanos rail. A classic design, proven over the years and surviving more than one generation of cars. The steering rack device is shown in the photo below.

Regardless of whether with or without a power steering rack, knocks in the steering can appear for several reasons:

Deterioration of a pair of gear-rack. If the mileage of our Lanos is over 180 thousand, the likelihood that this pair has worn out is quite high. A pair of gear - rack
The adjusting nut is loose or the clamping sleeve is worn. It is solved simply - we tighten the nut, but not all the way, but so that the steering wheel rotates freely, while there is no backlash. Clamping nut rails
Worn steering wheel bearings. The most common cause of knocks in Lanos with good mileage.
Working out on a clamping cracker, which leads to the fact that it is not pressed against the rail and beats on the rail body when driving through bumps. In this case, you will have to remove and sort out the rail.

There are a number of symptoms that can be very similar to rack knocks. In fact, everything can be much easier and cheaper to repair. These moments are often used at service stations to raise the price of repairs, so knowing about such malfunctions, we can fix them ourselves.

Checking the condition of the rail is quite simple. Firstly, a thorough visual inspection will indicate a lubricant leak from the steering crankcase, torn or worn anthers, and mechanical damage to the rack. Secondly, you need to try to find out the source of the knock from under the car or from under the hood.

To do this, we ask the assistant to sit behind the wheel and rotate it within 15-30 degrees. At this time, we ourselves are in the area of \u200b\u200bthe steering rack and carefully listen to where the knock comes from, if it is at all on a stationary car. A knock can be recognized by placing a hand on the rack housing while an assistant turns the steering wheel. Another source of knocking in the steering is the attachment points of the rods. The seal under the binoculars often breaks, it is enough to replace it and the knocks will disappear.

If the knocks on a stationary car are confirmed, we buy a repair kit for the Lanos rail, remove it and change the o-rings, caproline bushings, clamps and anthers. Even a complete overhaul of the rail will cost much less than buying and installing a new one. Good luck with all the diagnostics and smooth roads!

We remove the steering mechanism for its repair, replacement or replacement of the protective cover.
We show the removal of the steering mechanism with power steering.
You can remove the steering gear with or without steering rods.
In the first method, we press out the pins of the ball joints of the outer tips from the swing arms of the shock absorber struts (see Replacing the outer tie rod end of a Chevrolet Lanos).
In the second method, we disconnect the inner tie rod ends from the steering rack (see Removing the Chevrolet Lanos tie rod).
In the cabin…

... with a “12” head, we unscrew the bolt of the terminal connection of the flange of the elastic coupling with the shank of the steering gear and remove the bolt.
Set the front wheels to the straight ahead position.
After disconnecting the mechanical connection between the steering gear shaft and the flexible coupling, the steering wheel must not be turned to avoid damage to the spiral cable connecting the driver's airbag and horn switches to the wiring harness.
In the engine compartment, remove the expansion tank of the cooling system from the studs and set it aside (see Removing the Chevrolet Lanos expansion tank).
Before disconnecting the hydraulic lines from the crankcase of the steering mechanism, we substitute a wide container under the crankcase to collect fluid.

Using the “18” key, we unscrew the fitting 1 of the drain line pipe and the fitting 2 of the discharge line pipe.
We remove the tips of the tubes of both lines from the holes of the crankcase of the steering mechanism and insert the plugs of a suitable diameter into the holes of the pipes and the crankcase.

Using the “12” head, we unscrew the bolt of the upper fastening of the right bracket of the steering mechanism to the front panel ...

... and the bottom nut.

Remove the right steering bracket.

With the same tool, we unscrew the bolt of the upper fastening of the left bracket of the steering mechanism to the bulkhead and the nut of the lower fastening ... ... and remove the bracket.

The location of the brackets for mounting the steering mechanism (for clarity with the engine removed)

We shift the steering gear forward until the gear shank comes out of the flexible coupling flange (for clarity, the instrument panel is removed).
We remove the gear shank from the hole in the front end shield of the body ...

... and take out the steering mechanism together with the steering rods through the hole in the left mudguard.

In the second method of dismantling, we take out the steering mechanism without steering rods.
We assemble and install the steering mechanism in the reverse order, be sure to check the middle position of the rack (rectilinear movement of the car).
In this case, the steering wheel must also maintain the position of the rectilinear movement of the car.
This is to ensure that the coiled airbag cable is in the middle position.

The rack is in the middle position when the distance from the inner end of the landing surface of the steering gear housing under the left rubber cushion to the axis of symmetry of the plate is 325 mm (for clarity, it is shown with the steering gear removed).
In this case, the coupling bolt of the terminal connection of the flexible coupling flange with the steering column shaft must be located on top of the steering shaft in a horizontal position.
We fill the working fluid into the power steering reservoir and remove air from the system (see Bleeding the Chevrolet Lanos power steering system).

Guys, tell me who faced with the repair of the rail without an amplifier? It seems that the repair is inexpensive for spare parts, it makes no sense to change the rail, who did it? Where and how much does this procedure cost? I heard that the new rail will knock after 20 thousand km.

In response to:
Guys, tell me who faced with the repair of the rail without an amplifier? It seems that the repair is inexpensive for spare parts, it makes no sense to change the rail, who did it? Where and how much does this procedure cost? I heard that the new rail will knock after 20 thousand km.

need to be repaired. who will tell a hundred? called to say they don’t repair, this is a rail disease, namely metal, it knocks on the teeth of the shaft, so only a replacement. the new one goes up to a year (((((I don’t want to believe. Who really did the upgrade? Tell me!

Edited by vladimir19 (13:41 01/13/2010)

Today, in Kiev, rails on Lanos are not particularly repaired by anyone.

On disassembly, the price is 250-300 UAH + installation is the same. I was offered to choose any of the 5-6 available if it knocks, you can change it to another. That is, this is a lottery, but if you're lucky, then the price of 2 tanks of gasoline

Bayanishche.
Don't forget to use the search:
This time
It's two
It's tre
This chatyri
This five
Etc. etc.

There is one woodpecker man who is repairing the hodovka, incl. slats. If interested, I can drop the phone in a personal.

Can be replaced with a rail from Cadet, if in good condition, the issue price is 200-250 UAH
In theory, it should look like a longer than native.
I bought myself, waiting for spring to replace.

Though.
before repairing the rack, make sure that you have order with the steering tips.
and it will be like mine. on 3 services they said - rake. repaired. Dacian rail in excellent condition. about how he repaired - a separate conversation.
As a result, after the repair, the same symptoms - a knock from the front. rummaged in the net for a week, and came to the conclusion that the tips are still knocking.
I arrived at the station to a friend - the grue, they say, needs to be changed .. he climbed under the car for 20 minutes - he says the order, nothing needs to be changed.
Forced to change the tips - you should have seen his face when we drove the car after the replacement - the silence in front is perfect.
He has been repairing deer for 7 years, but he has not yet encountered such a thing.
P.S. - I repaired the rail myself, put a fluoroplastic bushing, a new boot, lubricated it with special grease - it has been driving like a native for 20 thousand, but just in case, a repaired rail from a cadet is at home ..
So think, comrades, before you cripple the rail.

The Chevrolet Lanos steering rack is needed in order to transfer forces from the steering wheel in the cabin to the swivel rods. In simpler terms, this device, thanks to the wheels synchronously turn in one direction. The steering rack of a Chevrolet Lanos without gur can be, or can be equipped with a power steering. Whether it will or not depends on the configuration and year of manufacture of the car. But in any case, you can always replace the old rail with a new one equipped with a hydraulic booster.

If the rail began to “knock”, we recommend that you either replace it or repair it. Especially for this, car shops can offer you a Chevrolet Lanos steering rack repair kit. It is inexpensive, but in a not too neglected state of the steering rack, it can put it in order. If the Chevrolet Lanos steering rack with gur repair does not help, you will have to change it to a new one.

First, raise the car so that the front wheels do not touch the ground.

Remove the wheel from the driver's side. Then we remove the battery.

We unscrew the nut by 46 and tighten the rail with a 19 key. You need to tighten it until the wheels get free play, and the steering wheel, during sharp turns, starts to click.

That's all, we collect everything back and try to ride. If it doesn’t help, you need to either repair the rail using the repair kit mentioned above, or change it to a new one. We recommend changing, as this is a guarantee that the rail will not disturb you for a very long time. But the question of how to tighten the steering rack on a Chevrolet Lanos seems to have been answered, now let's go directly to the replacement.Of course, you can change the rail yourself, but you will have to tinker for a long time (if you are doing this for the first time, and in general you don’t really understand the car and all the terms). Yes, and tools (if there is nowhere to take them) will have to be thoroughly spent. So we recommend that you contact a service station for replacement. But if you still thoroughly decided to do everything yourself, here's a video for you:

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Message Natusya » 08 Nov 2009, 18:37

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Message pandora0001 » 19 Oct 2010, 12:05

Let me summarize a little in identifying the knocks of the rake + column. To begin with, it is very important to determine what exactly is knocking, or rather where the knock is: in the steering rack or column. And then take action to eliminate the cause.

Why am I writing about this, but because in the last half a year I went through the repair of the rail at the service station, then the columns at the service station (as it turned out later, it was at the service station, when shooting the steering rack, they finished the steering column for me), then replacing the rack - on my own (I didn’t wait for the already ordered GUR, but the knock already got it.). And the problem with the knock was resolved only after he figured it out and eliminated it, well, in addition, he shoved the power steering.

There are also two more commonplace not breakdowns, but the causes of knocks in the steering column:
1 - the nuts of fastening the steering column itself to the body are lowered (check and tighten);
2 - the steering shaft is not centered, and therefore it knocks on the walls of the body of the column casing (center with the well-known bushing, according to the manual in the instructions).

As an intermediate link (the problem of knocks) between the steering column and the rack, attention should be paid to the elastic coupling (cross) that connects the shaft to the rack. Check the tightness of the two fastening bolts and the absence of play in the coupling itself. (CLUTCH breaks VERY RARE).

As for the steering rack - it's much more complicated.
1 - may knock due to loosening of the fastening of the rail to the body (check and tighten). But this may occur after you have removed the rail, if it has not yet been removed, then it is unlikely that they have dropped;
2 - a crack in the place where the steering rack is attached to the body (here it is more difficult, to the master.) We caught a very good hole.
3 - MOST PROBABLY, the very first thing to check and replace is the binoculars, if they are weak / worn out (we pull the tie rods at the place where they are attached to the rail - there will be play and knock). It can be replaced without removing the racks, but only by removing the clamp on the passenger side and unscrewing the steering rods.Very often, after replacing it, problems with knocking in the rail stop. When the binoculars are gouged, there will also be a knock in the sleeve (if it is metal), in the one in the rail, BUT THIS does not mean that it needs to be changed. Try replacing one binocular first.
4 - a large output in the sleeve - it will also make a knock, it can be replaced with a repair plastic one, but these are already the last stages of knocks, like the output in a rack / worm pair, or a worm needle bearing. If the problem is in a pair, then it is better to think about replacing the rail.

Now a few words about how I got here. DO NOT REPEAT MY MISTAKES. Bought no longer a new Lanos, found a knock in the steering.

I read educational programs on the forums (including this one), as the majority came to the conclusion - KAPETS sleeve in the rail. Let's look for a fluoroalloy bushing, ordered it, brought it, let's look for a service station. I arrived at the service station, I say it knocks in the steering wheel, they looked, yes it knocks, I say probably the sleeve, those YES, just the sleeve, this is Lanos and this is one of his sores. Karoch removed the rail, replaced the bushing with a plastic one (the turner did not put the one that I bought, he turned it to size himself), they also revealed that the needle bearing on the worm was broken - they replaced it with a bushing (they did not find such a bearing). They set it, the result is less knocking, BUT THERE IS, the steering wheel is much tighter to turn. Said krapal ride then it will be better. It didn’t get better, I came to the service station, they replaced the bushing again for free. The knock is not completely gone, the steering wheel is lighter, but not as it was before. The next trip to the service station ended with the fact that they shoved that BUSHING about which everyone writes about and clamped it with a clamp on the steering column, the knock almost disappeared, but the steering wheel in general. kapets, fuck you twist.

Video (click to play).

After a long study of the reiki and column, it turned out that I just had a working out in binoculars (I tried to replace the knock altogether). But when the rail was removed for me, due to the fact that it sat tightly in the elastic coupling, they also ruined / gouged the connection between the parts of the steering shaft, and therefore there was a knock in the steering column. Naturally, replacing the bushing in the rail did not lead to anything, it only worsened the situation, and when they stuck the bushing on the steering column to me and twisted it with a clamp, they simply hid the manifestations of knocking a little, but did not eliminate the cause. But I don’t take offense at them, thanks to them I studied the structure a little + acquired power steering. By the way, when at the next visit to that service station I tried to explain to them that the knock in the steering column was due to play in the connection of the parts of the steering shaft - THEY looked at me with square eyes, and tried to prove to me that there the shaft is solid and consists of one part.

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